image PINE NUTS (aka PIGNOLI)

Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of butter and/or pine resin, and a rich, soft texture

Volume: moderate–loud

Nutritional profile: 85% fats / 8% carbs / 7% protein

Calories: 190 per 1-ounce serving

Protein: 4 grams

What they are: seeds of certain kinds of pine trees

Techniques: raw, roast, toast

Flavor Affinities

pine nuts + basil + garlic + olive oil + Parmesan cheese

pine nuts + beets + mascarpone

pine nuts + bitter greens + raisins

pine nuts + broccoli + pasta

pine nuts + couscous + lemon

pine nuts + currants + rice

pine nuts + garlic + green beans

pine nuts + garlic + spinach

pine nuts + goat cheese + pesto + sun-dried tomatoes

pine nuts + olives + oranges + parsley

pine nuts + olives + pasta + tomatoes

 

image PISTACHIOS

Flavor: notes of butter and nuts, and a rich texture

Volume: moderate

What they are: nuts

Nutritional profile: 67% fats / 20% carbs / 13% protein

Calories: 345 per ½-cup serving (raw)

Protein: 12 grams

Techniques: raw, roast

Botanical relatives: cashews, mangoes, sumac

Flavor Affinities

pistachios + almonds + rose water

pistachios + apricots + dates

pistachios + basil + mint

pistachios + Brussels sprouts + olive oil + vinegar

pistachios + cardamom + orange

pistachios + cardamom + puddings + rice + rose water

pistachios + chili powder + garlic powder + onion powder

pistachios + citrus + mango

pistachios + dried fruit (e.g., apricots, cherries) + grains (couscous, quinoa)

pistachios + garlic + orange

pistachios + goat cheese + grapes

pistachios + goat cheese + tomatoes

pistachios + pine nuts + rice + saffron

pistachios + rhubarb + yogurt

pistachios + strawberries + yogurt

Dishes

Braised Baby Beets: Endive, Green Celery, Blue Cheese, Pistachios, Raspberry Vinaigrette

—Glenmere Mansion (Chester, NY)

 

image PLANTAINS—IN GENERAL, or MIXED

Flavor: range from savory and starchy (green) to slightly sweet and firm (yellow/brown) to sweet and creamy (black), with fruity (banana-like) notes

Volume: quiet/moderate (green)–moderate (yellow, black)

What they are: fruit

Nutritional profile: 97% carbs (high in sugars) / 2% protein / 1% fats

Calories: 235 per 1-cup serving (cooked, mashed)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: bake (at 350°F, 45–60 minutes), boil (25–40 minutes), broil, deep-fry, grill, mash, raw (only when all black), sauté, simmer, steam (about 10 minutes)

Tips: Serve as a starchy vegetable. When adding to soups or stews, add during the last 10 minutes of the cooking process.

Botanical relative: bananas

African cuisine

almonds

BEANS, BLACK

bell peppers

butter

Caribbean cuisine

Central American cuisine

cheese, e.g., blue, goat

chiles, chili pepper flakes, and chili pepper sauce

cinnamon

coconut and coconut milk

Cuban cuisine

fruit, tropical, e.g., papaya, pineapple

ginger

Latin American cuisines

lemon

LIME, e.g., juice

oils, e.g., coconut, olive, vegetable

onions, e.g., red, yellow

rice, e.g., jasmine

 

 

PLANTAINS, SWEET (e.g., BROWN or YELLOW)

Flavor: sweet, with notes of banana, and a soft, creamy yet firm texture

Volume: moderate

Techniques: bake, boil, deep-fry, grill, mash, pan-fry, sauté

African cuisine

allspice

beans, black

bell peppers, e.g., green

butter

Central American cuisine

chocolate

cilantro

cinnamon

cloves

coconut milk

Cuban cuisine

desserts, e.g., puddings

fruits, tropical

garlic

ginger

honey

lemon

lime

Mexican cuisine

molasses

oil, olive

onions, red

orange

pepper, black

raisins

rice, e.g., brown

rum, esp. dark

salt

scallions

soups

star anise

stews, vegetable

sugar, e.g., brown

Flavor Affinities

sweet plantains + bell peppers + black beans + cilantro + rice + scallions

Dishes

Black Bean and Plantain Tamales: Corn Husk-Steamed Tamales studded with Black Beans and Sweet Plantains. Red Guajillo Chile Sauce, Sour Cream, Queso Añejo, Arugula Salad

—Frontera Grill (Chicago)

 

images  PLUMS

Season: summer–autumn

Flavor: sweet and/or sour, with astringent notes of cherries, citrus, and/or honey, and a very juicy texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 90% carbs (high in sugars) / 5% protein / 5% fats

Calories: 30 per plum

Techniques: bake, poach, raw, stew

Botanical relatives: almonds, apples, apricots, blackberries, cherries, peaches, pears, quinces, raspberries, strawberries

Flavor Affinities

plums + almonds + cinnamon + orange

plums + almonds + honey + mascarpone

plums + barley + goat milk + honey

plums + brown sugar + oats

plums + chiles + garlic + ginger + lemon

plums + cinnamon + honey

plums + cinnamon + orange

plums + garlic + honey + olive oil + red onions + vinegar

plums + ginger + orange

plums + honey + orange + vanilla

plums + maple syrup + orange

 

 

PLUMS, UMEBOSHI and UMEBOSHI PLUM PASTE (see UMEBOSHI PLUMS)

 

POLENTA (see CORNMEAL, from which polenta is made)

 

POMEGRANATE MOLASSES

Volume: loud (and louder than fresh pomegranate seeds)

allspice

arugula

bananas

beans

bell peppers

beverages

bulgur

cardamom

carrots

cheese, e.g., goat

chickpeas

chiles

cinnamon

cloves

cumin

desserts

dips

drinks

eggplant

garlic

ginger

glazes

grapefruit

lemon, e.g., juice

lentils

marinades

Middle Eastern cuisines

mustard and mustard seeds

oil, olive

pears

pilafs

SALAD DRESSINGS

salads

sauces

sorbets

spinach

stews, e.g., lentil

Turkish cuisine

vegetables, esp. root

vinegar, e.g., balsamic

walnuts

 

image POMEGRANATES and  image  POMEGRANATE JUICE (see also POMEGRANATE MOLASSES)

Season: autumn

Flavor: sour/sweet, with notes of cranberries, and juicy, crunchy seeds (when fresh)

Volume: moderate (fresh seeds)

Nutritional profile: 81% carbs / 12% fats / 7% protein

Calories: 75 per ½-cup serving (fresh seeds)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: juice, raw

Tips: While the season for fresh pomegranates is short, the fruit freezes well (e.g., whole, in a zip-locked plastic bag). Just thaw, cut open, and remove the delicious, juicy seeds to add to smoothies and other dishes, all year long.

Flavor Affinities

pomegranates + apples + butternut squash + walnuts

pomegranates + arugula + endive

pomegranates + balsamic vinegar + pine nuts + spinach

pomegranates + bell peppers + chiles + cumin + lemon + walnuts

pomegranates + cucumbers + garlic + mint

pomegranates + goat cheese + orange + walnuts

pomegranates + grapefruit + greens + red onions

pomegranates + lemon + sugar

pomegranates + orange + yuzu

Dishes

Jerk Pomegranate Molasses Seitan Steak with Fresh Fennel, Candied Orange, and Rose Petals, served on a bed of Wild Rice

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

Pomegranate Kiwi Pancakes with Whipped Pomegranate Molasses Butter and Crème Fraîche

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

 

POMELO (see recommendations for GRAPEFRUIT)

Season: winter

Flavor: sour/sweet, with grapefruit notes (although milder, sweeter, and juicier than grapefruit)

Volume: loud

What it is: citrus fruit

 

 

POPPY SEEDS (see SEEDS, POPPY)

 

POSOLE (see HOMINY)

 

images  POTATOES—IN GENERAL, WITH SKIN

Season: year-round, esp. summer–winter

Flavor: neutral, with earthy notes, and a starchy texture

Volume: quiet

What they are: vegetable—starchy

Nutritional profile: 93% carbs / 6% protein / 1% fats

Calories: 70 per ½-cup serving (boiled)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake (whole, wrapped in foil, at 400°F, about 50–60 minutes), boil (note: use the leftover, nutritious water for sauces, soups), deep-fry, fry, grill, mash (esp. older, starchier potatoes), puree, roast (quartered, 20–40 minutes at 400°F), sauté, steam, stuff

Tips: Opt for organic potatoes. Leave the skins on for extra flavor, texture, and nutrition. Scrub well before cooking. Boil potatoes whole, not cut, so they don’t absorb water. Before baking potatoes, poke with a fork several times so steam can escape. Potatoes are America’s favorite vegetable (especially as French fries!), but don’t forget the importance of enjoying a wide variety of vegetables to ensure yourself the benefits of an equally wide variety of nutrients.

Botanical relatives: bell peppers, chiles, eggplant, gooseberries, tomatillos, tomatoes

Possible substitutes for mashed potatoes: mashed white beans, millet, pureed cauliflower

arugula

asparagus

baked goods, e.g., breads, cakes

basil

bay leaf

beans, e.g., fava, green

bell peppers, e.g., green and/or roasted

broccoli

BUTTER

buttermilk

cabbage, e.g., savoy

capers

caraway seeds

cardamom

carrots

cashews

casseroles

cauliflower

cayenne

celery, CELERY ROOT, and celery seeds

chard

CHEESE, e.g., Asiago, blue, cheddar, Fontina, goat, Gouda, Gruyère, Jack, manchego, mozzarella, Parmesan, pecorino, Swiss

chervil

chicory

chickpeas

chiles, e.g., chipotle

CHIVES and garlic chives

cilantro

cinnamon

cloves

coconut and coconut cream

coriander

corn

cream

crème fraîche

cumin

curry powder and spices

curries

dill

eggplant

EGGS, e.g., frittatas, hard-boiled, omelets, quiches, tortillas

fennel

fenugreek

French cuisine

garam masala

GARLIC

ginger

grains, whole, e.g., quinoa, spelt

gratins

greens, e.g., collard, mustard, salad, winter

horseradish

Indian cuisine

kale

lavender

LEEKS

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lentils

lovage

marjoram

mayonnaise

milk, dairy or nondairy (e.g., rice, soy)

mint

MUSHROOMS, e.g., morel, porcini, portobello, wild

mustard, e.g., Dijon, oil, seeds

nutmeg

OIL, e.g., canola, chili, OLIVE, peanut, vegetable

okra

olives, e.g., black, green

ONIONS, e.g., green, red, Spanish, Vidalia, yellow

oregano

paprika

PARSLEY, esp. flat-leaf, and parsley root

parsnips

pasta, e.g., gnocchi

peas

peas, split

PEPPER, e.g., BLACK, white

pesto

pine nuts

potato cakes / potato pancakes

ramps

ROSEMARY

rutabagas

saffron

SAGE

SALADS, e.g., egg, green, potato (cold or hot)

SALT, e.g., kosher, sea, smoked

savory

scallions

shallots

skordalia

SORREL

SOUPS, e.g., leek, potato, sorrel, vegetable

sour cream

spinach

squash, winter, e.g., butternut, delicata

stews

stock, vegetable

stuffed baked potatoes / twice-baked potatoes

sweet potatoes

tahini

tarragon

THYME

tomatoes

truffles, e.g., black, white

turmeric

turnips

vegetables, root

vinegar, e.g., champagne, sherry, white wine

walnuts

watercress

wine, e.g., dry white

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

potatoes + black olives + lemon + sun-dried tomatoes

potatoes + buttermilk + chocolate + cinnamon + vanilla

potatoes + butternut squash + sage

potatoes + cauliflower + leeks

potatoes + celery root + parsnips

potatoes + cheddar cheese + chiles + corn

potatoes + chipotle chiles + garlic

potatoes + cilantro + coconut

potatoes + cream + garlic + thyme

potatoes + crème fraîche + dill

potatoes + fennel + garlic + leeks

potatoes + fennel + lemon + yogurt

potatoes + garlic + herbs (e.g., oregano, rosemary, sage)

potatoes + garlic + lemon + olive oil + parsley + vinegar

potatoes + garlic + lemon zest + parsley + rosemary + thyme

POTATOES + GARLIC + OLIVE OIL

potatoes + garlic + olive oil + walnuts

potatoes + Gruyère cheese + winter squash

potatoes + herbs (e.g., oregano, rosemary, thyme) + lemon

potatoes + leeks + nutmeg + onions + parsley

Dishes

Pierogis: Pan Seared, filled with Potato and Caramelized Onion, Cashew Sour Cream, Scallions

—Blossoming Lotus (Portland, OR)

Tomato-stuffed Russet Potato: Glazed Chanterelles, Romanesco Purée, Scallion Oil

—DANIEL (New York City)

Nichol’s Farm Confit Potato Salad, Goat’s Feta, Kalamata Olive, Shaved Onion, Oregano

—Green Zebra (Chicago)

Potato “Mille-Feuille” with Carrots, Salsify, and a Parsley Vinaigrette

—Picholine (New York City)

 

“While I was first attracted to purple potatoes for their beautiful color, I love them for their flavor, which is nuttier and with more body than your typical Russet or yellow potato. I serve them smashed with any herb, some salt and pepper, and a little lemon juice or zest—or smashed and served with pesto tofu.”

—MAKINI HOWELL, PLUM BISTRO (SEATTLE)

image

 

 

POTATOES, HIGH-STARCH (e.g., IDAHO, RUSSET)

Tip: High-starch potatoes leave a creamy white liquid on the knife when cut; the greater the residue, the higher the level of starch.

Techniques: bake, fry, mash

 

POTATOES, LOW-STARCH (e.g., NEW)

boiled potatoes

gratins

salads, potato

 

POTATOES, NEW (aka RED POTATOES)

Season: spring–summer

Flavor: slightly sweet, with a moist, creamy texture

Volume: quiet

What they are: freshly harvested potatoes of the season

Techniques: boil, mash, roast, salt-bake, steam (Avoid frying.)

capers

carrots

cashews, e.g., ground raw

chives

cream

dill

garlic

gratins

herbs

horseradish

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice

mint

mustard, e.g., Dijon

oil, olive

paprika

parsley

pepper, e.g., black, white

rosemary

saffron

salads, e.g., green, potato

salt, e.g., sea

savory

scallions

shallots

soups and bisques

sour cream

stews

stock, vegetable

tarragon

thyme

vinegar, e.g., apple cider

walnuts

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

new potatoes + chives + lemon + olive oil

new potatoes + cider vinegar + dill + horseradish + olive oil

new potatoes + dill + mash + olive oil + parsley + soy milk

new potatoes + garlic + lemon + mustard

new potatoes + garlic + shallots + tarragon + vinegar

new potatoes + horseradish + mustard + scallions + yogurt

 

POTATOES, RED (see POTATOES, NEW)

 

POTATOES, RUSSET

Flavor: slightly sweet, with earthy notes, and dry, crumbly/fluffy texture with a thick, chewy skin

Volume: quiet

Techniques: bake, fry, mash, roast

Tip: As they don’t hold their shape well, russets are not recommended for casseroles or salads.

baked “fries”

baked potatoes

chives

gnocchi

mashed potatoes

sour cream

 

POTATOES, SWEET (see SWEET POTATOES)

 

POTATOES, THICK-SKINNED (e.g., IDAHO, RUSSET)

Techniques: bake, fry

 

POTATOES, THIN-SKINNED (e.g., NEW POTATOES, WHITE POTATOES)

Techniques: boil, pressure-cook, steam

 

POTATOES, WHITE

Flavor: neutral, with a thin skin

Volume: quiet

Techniques: boil, fry, mash, steam

casseroles

mashed potatoes with skins

salads, e.g., potato

soups

stews

 

 

PRESSURE-COOKING

Tip: Cooks foods 50–70 percent faster than traditional methods—which is especially helpful when it comes to slow-cooking foods such as dried beans and grains.

“I love pressure-cooking beans and grains, not only because it’s faster but because it makes them more digestible. Chickpeas that would normally take hours and hours of boiling will be done in 60 minutes in a pressure-cooker. The only beans I won’t pressure-cook are white beans, because it makes them too mushy for our arugula salad that features them. And you shouldn’t pressure-cook split peas or soybeans because they foam, which can clog the mechanism and make it explode—something I unfortunately learned the hard way after just painting my kitchen.… Brown rice can pressure-cook in just 40 minutes, and only needs a 1:2 rice-to-liquid ratio, because you don’t need much liquid when pressure-cooking.”

—PAM BROWN, GARDEN CAFÉ ON THE GREEN (WOODSTOCK, NY)

 

PRUNES and PRUNE PUREE (see PLUMS, DRIED)

 

PULSES (see also specific BEANS, CHICKPEAS, specific LENTILS; PEAS, SPLIT)

What they are: legumes

Protein: up to 9 grams per ½-cup serving

Tips: A half-cup of cooked pulses is equivalent to one serving of vegetables and the protein in two ounces of meat. For more information, visit the website cookingwithpulses.com.

African cuisines

Australian cuisine

Indian cuisines

Mediterranean cuisines

Middle Eastern cuisines

South American cuisines

“With up to 9 grams of protein per half-cup serving, pulses offer a low-fat or fat-free alternative to animal proteins. Pulses improve the protein quality of cereal grains, by adding a complimentary amino acid profile. Due to the high nutrient density, pulses can be considered both a protein and a vegetable.

—COOKINGWITHPULSES.COM

 

image PUMPKIN (see also SQUASH, WINTER)

Season: autumn

Flavor: sweet, with earthy notes of sweet potatoes, and a dense, fibrous texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: Technically, pumpkins are a hard-rind (i.e., winter) squash.

Nutritional profile: 88% carbs / 9% protein / 3% fats

Calories: 50 per 1-cup serving (cooked, mashed)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: bake (at 350–400°F, 45–60 minutes), boil, grill, mash, puree, roast (at 350°F for 60 minutes), steam

Tip: For ease of use, consider canned pumpkin.

Botanical relatives: cucumbers, melons, squashes

Possible substitutes: carrots, winter squash

ALLSPICE

almonds

American cuisine

APPLES, apple cider, and apple juice

baked baby pumpkins

BAKED GOODS, e.g., bread puddings, breads, cookies, muffins, pies, quick breads, scones

basil

BAY LEAF

BEANS, e.g., Anasazi, black, cannellini, kidney, lima, pinto, white

brandy

breadcrumbs

butter and brown butter

caramel

cardamom

carrots

cashews

cayenne

celery

CHEESE, e.g., blue, cream, Emmental, feta, Fontina, goat, GRUYÈRE, mozzarella, PARMESAN, pecorino, ricotta, Romano, soft, Swiss, vegan

cheesecake

chestnuts

chickpeas

CHILES, e.g., ancho, chipotle, green, guajillo, habanero, orange, red, Scotch bonnet

chili pepper flakes

chives

chocolate, e.g., dark, white

cilantro

CINNAMON

CLOVES

COCONUT and COCONUT MILK

cognac

coriander

corn

couscous

cranberries, e.g., dried, and cranberry juice

cream

cumin

curries and curry leaves, paste, powder

custards

desserts, e.g., cheesecakes, pies

fennel and fennel seeds

frisée

garam masala

GARLIC

GINGER

graham cracker crumbs

gratins

greens

hazelnuts

honey

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lemongrass

lime, e.g., juice, zest

mace

MAPLE SYRUP

milk, dairy or nondairy, e.g., coconut, soy

millet

mint

mirin

miso, e.g., light

molasses

mushrooms, e.g., shiitake, wood ear

mustard and mustard seeds

NUTMEG

nuts

oats and oatmeal

OILS, e.g., nut, olive, peanut, pumpkin seed, sesame, sunflower, vegetable, walnut

ONIONS, e.g., red, white

ORANGE, e.g., juice, zest

pancakes and waffles

paprika

parsley

parsnips

PASTAS, e.g., cannelloni, gnocchi, orzo, ravioli, tortellini

peanuts

pears

PECANS

pepper, e.g., black, white

PIES

pineapple

pine nuts

pistachios

plantains

plums, dried

potatoes

puddings

PUMPKIN SEEDS

quinces

radicchio

raisins

RICE, e.g., Arborio, brown, long-grain

rice, wild

rice syrup risottos

rosemary

rum

SAGE

salt, e.g., kosher, sea

sesame seeds, e.g., black

soufflés

SOUPS, e.g., pumpkin, winter vegetable

Southeast Asian cuisines

soy sauce

spinach

stews

stock, vegetable

stuffed mini-pumpkins

SUGAR, e.g., brown

tarragon

thyme

tofu, e.g., firm

TOMATOES, e.g., paste, sauce, sun-dried

vanilla

vegetables, root

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, champagne

WALNUTS

wine, white

yogurt

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

pumpkin + allspice + cinnamon + ginger + orange + vanilla

pumpkin + almonds + raisins

pumpkin + apples + cilantro + curry + leeks

pumpkin + balsamic vinegar + Parmesan cheese + sage

pumpkin + black sesame + corn + spinach

pumpkin + breadcrumbs + garlic + parsley

pumpkin + brown sugar + cinnamon + cloves + ginger + nutmeg + orange + walnuts

pumpkin + cardamom + cinnamon + cloves

pumpkin + chickpeas + cilantro + garlic + ginger + lemongrass

pumpkin + chiles + garlic + orange + rosemary

pumpkin + cinnamon + cloves + coconut milk + ginger + nutmeg + vanilla

pumpkin + cinnamon + ginger + maple syrup + pecans

pumpkin + cinnamon + ginger + oatmeal + raisins

PUMPKIN + CINNAMON + MAPLE SYRUP

pumpkin + coconut milk + curry paste

pumpkin + cranberries + orange

pumpkin + cream cheese + graham cracker crumbs + orange

pumpkin + garlic + olive oil + rosemary + thyme

pumpkin + nutmeg + Parmesan cheese

pumpkin + oats + sage + walnuts

pumpkin + onions + sage + soups + soy milk

Dishes

Pumpkin Mousse with Cranberries and Candied Pecans

—Angelica Kitchen (New York City)

Pumpkin Cinnamon Roll: Housemade Jumbo Cinnamon Roll with Pumpkin and Pecans

—Blossoming Lotus (Portland, OR)

Griddled Pumpkin Bread: Ginger Purée, Pumpkin Jam, and Oatmeal Sherbet

—CityZen (Washington, DC)

Pumpkin Enchiladas: Pumpkin, Black Beans, Roasted Corn, Cilantro, and Chiles wrapped in Corn Tortillas, topped with Cilantro “Sour Cream” and Mole, over Spanish Quinoa

—Great Sage (Clarksville, MD)

Pumpkin Coconut Bisque with Pumpkin Seeds

—The Lodge at Woodloch (Hawley, PA)

Tamale: Pumpkin and Roasted Jalapeño Tamale with Pumpkin Seed Mole

—Mana Food Bar (Chicago)

Pumpkin Custard: Spiced Whipped Cream, Candied Pumpkin Seeds, Caramel Sauce, Ginger Molasses Cookies

—Millennium (San Francisco)

“Seminole” Pumpkin Roasted with Vadouvan and Hibiscus, Braised Borage, “Delfino” Cilantro

—Oxheart (Houston)

Pumpkin Pancakes with Whipped Maple Butter, Maple Syrup, Pumpkin Seeds, Brown Sugar, and Raisins

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

Pumpkin Sage Ravioli with Roasted Fennel Cream Sauce, Maple Smoked Tofu, and Pumpkin

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

Pumpkin Cheesecake, Pecan Crust, Bourbon, and Brown Sugar Cream

—True Bistro (Somerville, MA)

image

 

PUMPKIN SEEDS (see SEEDS, PUMPKIN)

 

image PURSLANE (aka VERDOLAGA)

Season: summer–early autumn

Flavor: bitter/salty/sour, with notes of cucumber, lemon, pepper, sorrel, and/or tomato, and a crunchy, juicy texture

Volume: very quiet / quiet (raw)–moderate (cooked)

What it is: herb/green

Nutritional profile: 71% carbs / 20% protein / 9% fats

Calories: 20 per 1-cup serving (cooked)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: raw, sauté, steam

Tips: Can cook like spinach. Bitterness increases during cooking, so cook only lightly.

Flavor Affinities

purslane + basil + croutons + cucumbers + olive oil + onions + tomatoes + vinegar

purslane + basil + goat cheese + scallions + tomatoes

purslane + feta cheese + tomatoes

purslane + garlic + nutmeg + onion + potatoes + sorrel

purslane + garlic + yogurt

purslane + romaine + scallions

Purslane is one of those ingredients that people will taste and ask, ‘What is that?’ I enjoy it in the summertime raw in salads, or lightly sautéed—but be aware that it cooks down a lot.”

—ANGEL RAMOS, CANDLE 79 (NEW YORK CITY)

Dishes

Mâche and Purslane Salad with Roasted Delicata Squash, Cipollini Onions, Brussels Sprouts, Chickpeas, Radish, and Sunflower Seeds, tossed with a Creamy Tarragon Dressing

—Candle 79 (New York City)

 

QUELITES (see LAMB’S-QUARTER)

 

Dishes

Sticky Toffee Pudding: Quince, Amaretto, and Honey

—Mélisse (Santa Monica, CA)

 

image QUINOA

[KEEN-wah]

Flavor: bitter/slightly sweet, with earthy notes of couscous, grass, herbs, millet, nuts, and/or sesame, and a light and fluffy (when cooked), slightly crunchy texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: often thought of as a whole grain, even though it’s the fruit of an herb, not a grain

What’s healthful about it: Most quinoa contains 15–20% protein (higher than the typical 14% of wheat, 9–11% of millet, and 7–8% of rice), and is richer in calcium than milk.

Gluten-free: yes

Nutritional profile: 71% carbs / 15% protein / 14% fat

Calories: 220 per 1-cup serving (cooked)

Protein: 8 grams

Techniques: boil, simmer, steam, toast

Timing: Cooks in 10–15 (white) to 20 (red) to 30 (black) minutes.

Ratio: 1: 1½–2 (1 cup quinoa to 1½–2 cups liquid, e.g., stock, water)

Tips: Quinoa must be rinsed very well before cooking, to remove all traces of bitterness (and “suds” from the rinse water). Toast first before using in dishes to enhance its flavor. For enhanced flavor and texture, try sautéing for 5 minutes before adding liquid—and/or substituting vegetable stock or juice, or fruit juice (e.g., orange or passion fruit), for some or all of the water. Fluff with a fork after cooking to separate the grains (and remember that black and red quinoa won’t stick together as much as white). Quinoa doesn’t get mushy, even when overcooked.

Botanical relatives: amaranth, beets, chard, lambs’-quarter, spinach

Flavor Affinities

quinoa + almond milk + cinnamon + nuts

quinoa + bell peppers + carrots + parsley + rice vinegar + sesame oil/seeds

quinoa + black beans + cumin

quinoa + black beans + mango

quinoa + cashews + pineapple

quinoa + cucumbers + feta cheese + parsley + tomatoes

quinoa + cucumbers + lemon + mint + parsley

QUINOA + DILL + LEMON JUICE + zucchini

“I love quinoa. I especially like making quinoa tabbolueh. I add onions, tomatoes, cucumber, parsley, lemon, and salt. You don’t have to cook it that long and it absorbs all the flavors.”

—AMANDA COHEN, DIRT CANDY (NEW YORK CITY)

“Every ingredient in our dishes is there for a reason—either flavor, texture, and/or its health benefit. Quinoa is kind of our ‘house grain’ because of all of the above—it’s great in salads, and golden quinoa is one of two key ingredients [along with black beans] in our signature Root veggie burger. Our burgers are also made with pureed carrots, garlic, onions, and breadcrumbs seasoned with black pepper and paprika before shaping into patties. To achieve their meaty texture, they’re cooked twice—the first time slowly on low heat on the grill, and the second time seared on high heat to crisp it.”

—DEENA JALAL, FOMU AND ROOT (ALLSTON, MA)

Dishes

Quinoa with Snow Peas, Sugar Snaps, and Ginger

—ABC Kitchen (New York City)

Veggie Burger: Butternut Squash and Quinoa Patty, Roasted Red Peppers, Avocado, Lettuce, Tomato, Mayo on a Semolina Bun

—Blossom (New York City)

Homestyle Quinoa Pancakes with Seasonal Fruit, Strawberry Butter, and Gingered Maple Syrup

—Candle 79 (New York City)

Tempeh Vegetable Tamale with Quinoa Pilaf, Sautéed Spinach, Pumpkin Seeds, Chocolate Mole Sauce, Guacamole, Sour Cream, and Mango Salsa

—Candle 79 (New York City)

Red Quinoa: Pan-Roasted Fresh Artichoke Hearts and Fava Beans / Light Tomato Broth

—Crossroads (Los Angeles)

Quinoa Salad with Fennel, Avocado, and Grapefruit

—Lake Austin Spa Resort (Austin, TX)

Quinoa and Wakame Salad with Sesame Ginger Vinaigrette

—The Lodge at Woodloch (Hawley, PA)

Quinoa and Baby Greens Salad, Pomegranate, Candied Walnuts, Dried Cranberries

—Madeleine Bistro (Los Angeles)

Quinoa: Toasted Grain, Currants, Almonds, Mint, and Tangerine

—Mana Food Bar (Chicago)

Quinoa with Crushed Pistachio and Za’atar (i.e., herbs, salt, sesame, sumac)

—Oleana (Cambridge, MA)

Gluten-Free Quinoa Johnny Cake with Banana, Maple Syrup, and Greek Yogurt

—True Food Kitchen (Phoenix)

Quinoa Tabbouleh Salad with Watercress, Beet, Pomegranate, Lemon, and Cold-Pressed Olive Oil

—True Food Kitchen (Santa Monica, CA)

 

image RADICCHIO

[rod-EEK-ee-oh]

Season: year-round, esp. summer–winter

Flavor: bitter, with earthy notes, and crisp/crunchy and firm in texture

Volume: moderate–loud

Nutritional profile: 76% carbs / 15% protein / 9% fats

Calories: 10 per 1-cup serving (raw, shredded)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake, braise, broil, grill, julienne, oven-grill, raw, roast, sauté, sear, steam, stir-fry

Tip: Cooking radicchio (and, cookbook author Marcella Hazan says, slicing it thinly on the diagonal) brings out its sweetness.

Botanical relatives: artichokes, chamomile, chicory, dandelion greens, endive, lettuces (e.g., Bibb, iceberg, romaine), salsify, tarragon

Flavor Affinities

radicchio + apples + fennel

radicchio + arugula + endive

radicchio + balsamic vinegar + garlic + olive oil

radicchio + balsamic vinegar + mushrooms + Parmesan cheese + risotto

radicchio + beets + blue cheese + walnut oil + walnuts

radicchio + blue cheese + walnut oil + walnuts

radicchio + breadcrumbs + hard-boiled egg + parsley

radicchio + breadcrumbs + Parmesan cheese

RADICCHIO + CHEESE (e.g., Asiago, blue, goat) + FRUIT (e.g., dried cranberries, oranges, pears) + NUTS (e.g., hazelnuts, pecans, pine nuts, walnuts)

radicchio + fennel + olive oil + orange + pear

radicchio + fennel + olive oil + red wine vinegar

radicchio + frisée + mustard + nuts + pears + red wine vinegar

radicchio + garlic + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + white beans radicchio + garlic + olive oil + vinegar

radicchio + garlic + parsley + pasta + ricotta cheese

radicchio + Gorgonzola cheese + mushrooms

radicchio + lemon + pasta

Dishes

Radicchio Salad with Mozzarella, Mango, and Basil

—Eleven Madison Park (New York City)

Roasted Beet Salad with Radicchio Slaw, Blue Cheese Dressing, and Toasted Walnuts

—Marché (Eugene, OR)

Grilled Radicchio Salad with Cinnamon-Roasted Carrots, Pomegranate, Farro, Toasted Pistachio, Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette, Tahini, Black Olive-Urfa Chili Oil, and Fresh Herbs

—Millennium (San Francisco)

 

image RADISHES—IN GENERAL (see also DAIKON)

Season: spring–summer

Flavor: slightly sweet/hot, with pungent notes of nuts and pepper, and a crunchy (raw) or creamy (cooked) texture

Volume: moderate (cooked)–loud (raw)

Nutritional profile: 83% carbs / 12% protein / 5% fats

Calories: 20 per 1-cup serving (raw, sliced)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: braise, grate, raw (best served raw), roast, sauté, shave (e.g., into noodles), steam

Botanical relatives: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, horseradish, kale, kohlrabi, land cress, rutabagas, turnips, watercress

Flavor Affinities

radishes + avocados + lettuce

RADISHES + bread + BUTTER + SALT

radishes + cabbage + celery salt + onions

radishes + carrots + cayenne + lime juice + salt + slaws

radishes + chives + cream cheese + sour cream

radishes + cilantro + lime + olive oil

radishes + cucumbers + dill

radishes + cucumbers + endive + mustard

radishes + dill + salt + vinegar + yogurt

radishes + escarole + lemon + orange

radishes + garlic + yogurt

radishes + lemon + pistachios

radishes + mint + orange

radishes + rice wine vinegar + sesame oil + soy sauce

Dishes

Fancy Radishes: Roasted, Raw, and Pickled, Smoked Tamari, Avocado, Shishito

—Vedge (Philadelphia)