RADISHES, DAIKON (see DAIKON)
RADISHES, WATERMELON
Season: autumn–spring
Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of jícama and/or pepper, and a firm, crunchy texture
Volume: quiet–moderate
Techniques: grate, marinate, pickle, raw, sauté, shave, slice
Factoid: Watermelon radishes are named for their green skin and pink/red flesh.
apples, e.g., green
arugula
asparagus
avocado
butter and brown butter
buttermilk
carrots
cayenne
celery
cheese, e.g., blue, chèvre, feta, goat, Gouda, Parmesan, ricotta salata
chives
cilantro
CITRUS, e.g., lemon, lime
crème fraîche
cucumbers
dill
eggs, e.g., hard-boiled
fennel
figs
frisée
GARLIC
jícama
kale
leeks
lemon
lime
mayonnaise
mint
mustard, e.g., Dijon
noodles, Asian, e.g., soba, udon
nuts, e.g., hazelnuts, pistachios, walnuts
oil, e.g., olive, sesame
olives, e.g., green
onions, white
orange, e.g., juice
parsnips
peas
pepper, black
pomegranate seeds
pumpkin seeds
quinoa
salads, e.g., citrus, grain, green, three-bean
salt, sea
sesame seeds
soy sauce
spinach
strawberries
sugar
sugar snap peas
tarragon
vinegar, e.g., apple cider, balsamic, rice, white balsamic, white wine
watercress
watermelon
Flavor Affinities
watermelon radishes + avocados + pumpkin seeds + salad greens
watermelon radishes + citrus segments + salad greens
“I’ll slice watermelon radishes so that they cook through—they turn so red they look almost bloody. I toss them in butter, and add them to parsnip dishes, or salads. I’ll also pickle them to make kimchi.”
—AMANDA COHEN, DIRT CANDY (NEW YORK CITY)
“Watermelon radishes are as wonderful for their color as they are for their flavor. They grate well, they slice on the mandoline well, and they even hold well, with a good shelf life.”
—MARK LEVY, THE POINT (SARANAC LAKE, NY)
“People eat with their eyes first—so food should always look beautiful at the table. Watermelon radishes are beautiful, and their color and flavor enhance everything from citrus salads to grain salads to spring rolls.”
—ANNIE SOMERVILLE, GREENS RESTAURANT (SAN FRANCISCO)
RAISINS
Flavor: sweet–very sweet, with a chewy texture
Volume: moderate
Nutritional profile: 95% carbs / 3% protein / 2% fats
Calories: 120 per ¼-cup serving (seeded)
Protein: 1 gram
Techniques: bake, raw, steam, stew
Tip: Opt for organic, sun-dried raisins; sun-drying helps maintain the nutrients.
allspice
almonds
anise
apples
BAKED GOODS, e.g., breads, cookies, fruitcakes, muffins, scones
bananas
barley, pearl
brandy
broccoli rabe
butter
buttermilk
cabbage
caramel
cardamom
CARROTS
celery root
cereals, cold or hot breakfast
chard, e.g., Swiss
cheese, e.g., goat, ricotta
chestnuts
chickpeas
chocolate, e.g., dark, white
cinnamon
cloves
cognac
compotes
corn
couscous
crème fraîche
currants
custard
dates
desserts
escarole
fruit, other dried, e.g., figs
garlic
ginger
granola
greens, e.g., collard
hazelnuts
honey
ice cream, e.g., rum
Indian cuisine
Italian cuisine, esp. Venetian
kale
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
liqueurs, e.g., nut
maple syrup
mascarpone
Moroccan cuisine
nutmeg
nuts
OATS and OATMEAL
onions, e.g., sweet
orange, e.g., juice, zest
parsley
pasta, e.g., orzo
peanuts
pears
pecans
pineapples
pine nuts
pistachios
plums, dried
puddings, e.g., bread, rice
pumpkin
pumpkin seeds
quinces
quinoa
rice, e.g., basmati
RUM
salads, e.g. carrot, Waldorf
sauces, e.g., mole
snacks
sour cream
Southern Comfort
spinach
squash, e.g., acorn
stews
stuffings
sugar, e.g., brown
sunflower seeds
sweet potatoes
tagines
trail mix
vanilla
walnuts
whiskey
wine, e.g., red, sweet, white
yogurt
Flavor Affinities
raisins + almonds / almond milk + cinnamon + grains (e.g., rice, pearled barley)
raisins + brown sugar + oats raisins + cardamom + rice
raisins + carrots + cinnamon + lemon + quinoa
raisins + carrots + cumin
raisins + carrots + flaxseed oil + tamari + umeboshi vinegar
raisins + carrots + pine nuts
raisins + carrots + walnuts
raisins + cinnamon + grains (e.g., couscous, oats, pearled barley, quinoa)
raisins + couscous + lemon
raisins + orange + rum
RAMPS
Season: spring–summer
Flavor: slightly sweet; aromatic, with pungent notes of garlic and/or onion
Volume: quiet–moderate
What they are: wild leeks
Techniques: blanch, braise, grill, parboil, pickle, raw, simmer, stew
Tip: Flavor becomes sweeter with cooking.
Botanical relatives: leeks, lily
(North) American cuisine
ASPARAGUS
beans, fava
breadcrumbs
butter
carrots
cayenne
chard
cheese, e.g., burrata, goat, mozzarella, Parmesan
chiles, e.g., jalapeño
cream
EGGS, e.g., custards, frittatas, omelets, quiches, scrambled
fiddlehead ferns
garlic
gratins
greens
hazelnuts
lemon, e.g., zest
lentils
lovage
mascarpone
MUSHROOMS, WILD, e.g., morel
mustard, e.g., Dijon
nettles
oil, nut, e.g., walnut
oil, olive
onions, spring
oranges
parsley
pasta, e.g., fettuccine, linguini, spaghetti
peas
pepper, black
“pestos”
polenta
potatoes, e.g., new
rice, e.g., Arborio
risottos
shallots
soups, e.g., asparagus
soy sauce
spinach
stews
stock, e.g., vegetable
sunflower seeds
tarragon
thyme
tomatoes
vinegar, e.g., balsamic, sherry, wine
walnuts
wine, dry white
yogurt
Flavor Affinities
ramps + asparagus + eggs + morels
ramps + asparagus + lemon + mint + pasta
ramps + asparagus + Parmesan cheese + risotto
ramps + burrata cheese + garlic + tomatoes
ramps + garlic + jalapeño + pasta
ramps + mascarpone + polenta
ramps + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + “pestos” + walnuts
ramps + pasta + tomatoes
RASPBERRIES
Season: summer
Flavor: sweet/sour, with a delicate, juicy texture
Volume: quiet–moderate
Nutritional profile: 82% carbs / 10% fat / 8% protein
Calories: 65 per 1-cup serving (raw)
Protein: 1 gram
Botanical relatives: almonds, apples, apricots, blackberries, cherries, peaches, pears, plums, quinces, strawberries
ALMONDS
apples
apricots
baked goods, e.g., breads, muffins, scones
bananas
BERRIES, other, e.g., blackberries, blueberries, strawberries
beverages
buttermilk
cheese, e.g., Brie, cream, goat, ricotta
CHOCOLATE, e.g., dark
*CHOCOLATE, WHITE
cinnamon
citrus fruits
cloves
coulis
CREAM
crème anglaise and crème fraîche
DESSERTS, e.g., crepes, crisps, crumbles, custards
figs
ginger
graham crackers
grapefruit
grapes
hazelnuts
honey
ice cream
LEMON, e.g., juice, zest
lime, e.g., juice, zest
liqueurs, e.g., berry, brandy, cognac, Cointreau, framboise, Grand Marnier, Kirsch, rum (esp. dark), tequila
mangoes
maple syrup
mascarpone
melons, e.g., honeydew
meringue
milk
nectarines
nuts, e.g., macadamia
oats and oatmeal
oil, e.g., olive, walnut
orange, e.g., juice, zest
pancakes
papaya
PEACHES
pears
pecans
pepper, black
pineapple
pine nuts
pistachios
plums
poppy seeds
preserves
quince
rhubarb
salad dressings, e.g., vinaigrettes
salads, e.g., fruit, green
sauces
smoothies
sorbets
sour cream
star anise
sugar, e.g., brown
tangerine
vanilla
verbena
vinegar, e.g., balsamic, red wine, sherry
watermelon
wine, e.g., red, sparkling (e.g., Champagne), sweet (e.g., Moscato d’Asti)
YOGURT
Flavor Affinities
raspberries + apricots + mint
raspberries + brown sugar + cinnamon + oats
raspberries + (honey +) lemon + yogurt
raspberries + mango + peaches
raspberries + mint + pistachios
RHUBARB
Season: spring–summer
Flavor: very sour, with notes of lemon, and a crisp (raw) or tender (cooked) texture
Volume: loud
What it is: a vegetable (technically) that is more often eaten as a fruit
Nutritional profile: 78% carbs / 14% protein / 8% fats
Calories: 25 per 1-cup serving (raw, diced)
Protein: 1 gram
Techniques: bake, poach, puree, sauté, stew
Tip: Never eat rhubarb leaves, which are poisonous.
ALMONDS and almond-flavored cookies or cream
ANGELICA
APPLES and apple juice
apricots
BAKED GOODS, e.g., cakes, pies, tarts
bananas
BERRIES, e.g., blackberries, blueberries, STRAWBERRIES
butter
buttermilk
caramel
cardamom
celery
cheese, e.g., blue, cream, goat, ricotta
cherries
chutneys
CINNAMON
citrus
cloves
coconut cream and coconut milk
compotes, fruit
cream
crème fraîche
crème de cassis
DESSERTS, e.g., cobblers, crisps, crumbles, custards, fools
drinks, esp. sparkling
elderflower syrup
fruit
GINGER
grapefruit, e.g., juice, zest
hazelnuts
HONEY
ice creams
lemons and Meyer lemons, e.g., juice, zest
lime, e.g., juice, zest
mangoes
maple syrup
milk, e.g., goat’s
mint
nutmeg
oats and oatmeal
ORANGE, e.g., juice, zest
peaches
pepper, e.g., black, pink
pineapple, e.g. fruit, juice
pistachios
plums
polenta
pomegranates
puddings, e.g., tapioca
raisins
raspberries and raspberry juice
rose water
sauces
soups, e.g., rhubarb, strawberry, sweet-and-sour
sorbets
sour cream
spinach
star anise
stews
*STRAWBERRIES
SUGAR, e.g., brown
VANILLA
vinegar, e.g., balsamic, fruit, sherry
wine, e.g., red; sparkling, e.g., Champagne; sweet
YOGURT, e.g., sheep’s milk
Flavor Affinities
rhubarb + almonds + apples + maple syrup + raspberries
rhubarb + almonds + ginger + maple syrup
RHUBARB (+ ALMONDS+ OATS) + ORANGE + STRAWBERRIES + VANILLA
rhubarb + almonds + vanilla
rhubarb + apples + cinnamon + cloves + orange
rhubarb + apples + pomegranates
rhubarb + brown sugar + ginger + vanilla
rhubarb + cloves + honey + orange
rhubarb + fennel + goat cheese + hazelnuts + watercress
rhubarb + ginger + strawberries
rhubarb + lemon + strawberries
rhubarb + mangoes + oranges
RICE—IN GENERAL
Flavor: slightly sweet
Volume: quiet
What it is: grain
Gluten-free: yes
Nutritional profile: 92% carbs / 7% protein / 1% fat
Calories: 120 per ½-cup of white rice (medium-grain, cooked)
Protein: 2 grams
Techniques: boil, steam
Tip: The darker the rice, the greater the nutrients (i.e., black > 
brown > white).
amaranth
American cuisine, esp. Southern and Southwestern
anise seeds
ASIAN CUISINES
basil
bay leaf
BEANS, e.g., black
bell peppers, e.g., red, roasted, stuffed
beverages, e.g., horchata
biryani
broccoli
butter
cabbage, stuffed
cardamom
Caribbean cuisines
casseroles
cayenne
cheese, Swiss
chervil
chili powder and chili sauce
Chinese cuisine
chives
cilantro
cinnamon
cloves
COCONUT and COCONUT MILK
cream
cumin
curry powder and curries
custard
dill
eggplant
fennel
fruit, dried, e.g., apricots, plums, raisins
garlic
ginger
greens, Asian
Indian cuisine
Italian cuisine
Japanese cuisine
Korean cuisine
leeks
legumes, e.g., lentils
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
lemon thyme
lemongrass
marjoram
Mexican cuisine
Middle Eastern cuisines
milk
mushrooms
nutmeg
nuts, e.g., almonds, pecans, pine nuts, pistachios, walnuts
onions
oranges
oregano, e.g., Mexican
paellas
paprika
parsley
peas
pilafs
pineapples
plantains
puddings
pumpkin
raisins
rhubarb
SAFFRON
sage
salt
savory
sea vegetables
soups
soy sauce
Spanish cuisine
squash, summer
stock, vegetable
stuffed mushrooms or vegetables, e.g., bell peppers, eggplants, tomatoes
sugar, e.g., brown
tamari
tarragon
terrines, vegetable
thyme
tomatoes
turmeric
vanilla
vegetables, e.g., spring
vinegar, rice
yogurt
Flavor Affinities
rice + almonds or almond milk + caradamom + cinnamon (+ fruit, e.g., apples) + sweetener (brown sugar, honey, maple syrup)
rice + carrots + leeks/onions + parsley + pilafs
rice + cilantro + garlic + Mexican oregano + tomatoes
rice + cinnamon + milk (+ raisins) + vanilla
rice + coconut + lemon
rice + coconut + raisins
rice + feta cheese + mint
RICE, ARBORIO (aka RISOTTO)
Flavor: neutral, with a firm chalky center and a starchy, creamy surface (when cooked)
Volume: quiet
Techniques: Sauté rice in butter or oil until white. Stir while gradually adding hot/boiling liquid (e.g., vegetable stock) and simmering, about 20 minutes.
Ratio: 1: 3–3½ (1 cup rice to 3–3½ cups cooking liquid, e.g., juice, stock, water, and/or wine)
Tips: Let the seasons inspire your risotto pairings, e.g., basil and tomato in summer, wild mushrooms in autumn. Try the same flavor pairings with “risottos” made from other grains, e.g., barley, farro. Look for brown Arborio rice, which is higher in nutrients.
Possible substitutes: baldo rice, carnaroli rice (which, while less widely available, makes the creamiest—and arguably the best—risotto), vialone nano rice
artichokes
arugula
ASPARAGUS
beans, e.g., fava, green
beer, e.g., IPA
beets
bell peppers
butter
carrots
cauliflower
celery
chard, Swiss
CHEESE, e.g., blue, feta, Fontina, goat, PARMESAN, pecorino,
ricotta, Taleggio
chiles, e.g., red
chives
corn
fennel
fiddlehead ferns
garlic
garlic, green
greens, e.g., beet
(NORTHERN) ITALIAN CUISINE
juice, vegetable, e.g., cauliflower
kale
leeks
LEMON, e.g., juice, zest
lemon thyme
lime, e.g., juice, zest
maple syrup
mascarpone
mint
MUSHROOMS, e.g., button, chanterelle, cremini, morels, oyster, porcini, shiitake, wild
mustard seeds
nettles
nutmeg
oil, olive
onions, e.g., spring, yellow
paellas
PARSLEY
PEAS
pepper, e.g., black, white
pesto
pine nuts
puddings, rice
radicchio
*RISOTTOS
risotto cakes
SAFFRON
sage
salt, kosher
scallions
shallots
sorrel
spinach
squash, summer or winter, e.g., butternut
STOCK, e.g., mushroom or vegetable
tarragon
thyme
tomatoes
tomatoes, sun-dried
truffles, white
vanilla
vermouth
vinegar, balsamic
WINE, e.g., dry red or white
zucchini
zucchini blossoms
Flavor Affinities
risotto + apples + cinnamon + maple syrup
risotto + artichokes + cheese (e.g., ricotta) + fava beans
RISOTTO + ASPARAGUS + LEMON + peas
risotto + asparagus + mint + ricotta
risotto + asparagus + morel mushrooms + Parmesan cheese
risotto + basil + eggplant + tomatoes
risotto + basil + green vegetables (e.g., asparagus, peas) + saffron
risotto + basil + tomatoes + zucchini
risotto + beets + dill + fennel
risotto + blue cheese + sage + walnuts
risotto + butternut squash + chanterelles + saffron
risotto + butternut squash + chard + kale + mushrooms
risotto + carrots + garlic + lemon + thyme
risotto + cheese (e.g., Gorgonzola, Parmesan) + pumpkin + sage
risotto + coconut milk + lemon + vanilla
risotto + eggplant + mint + tomatoes
risotto + feta cheese + garlic + mushrooms + spinach
risotto + green vegetables (e.g., peas, spinach) + mushrooms (e.g., porcini)
risotto + lemon thyme + morels + peas + spring onions
risotto + morel mushrooms + spring garlic + spring onions
risotto + peas + pesto + tomatoes
risotto + pesto + sun-dried tomatoes + zucchini
risotto + pine nuts + raisins + spinach
RICE, BASMATI, and BROWN BASMATI RICE
Flavor: slightly sweet; aromatic, with notes of nuts, popcorn, smoke, and/or toast, and a firm, slightly chewy texture
Volume: quiet–moderate
What it is: aged long-grain rice
Techniques: boil, simmer (about 2 minutes), steam
Timing: Simmer, covered, about 20 (white) to 40 (brown) minutes.
Ratio: 1: 1½ (white)–2 (brown) (1 cup rice to 1½–2 cups cooking liquid)
Tips: Rinse basmati rice before using. Soak it for 10 minutes before cooking in enough water to “reach your first knuckle,” according to Hemant Mathur of Tulsi.
Brand: Falak
ALMONDS
apricots, e.g., dried
basil
bay leaf
beans, e.g., fava, mung
bell peppers, esp. red
biryani
butter
buttermilk
CARDAMOM, e.g., black, green
carrots
cashews
cauliflower
cherries, dried
chervil
chickpeas
chiles, esp. dried red
chives
cilantro
cinnamon
cloves
coconut and coconut milk
cumin
currants
CURRIES, e.g., Indian
dates
dill
fennel seeds
garam masala
garlic
ghee
ginger
honey
INDIAN CUISINE
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
lime
mangoes
mascarpone
milk
mint
mustard seeds, e.g., black
oil, e.g., canola, olive, safflower
onions, e.g., green, red, yellow
orange, e.g., juice, zest
Pakistani cuisine
parsley
pasta, e.g., orzo
peas
pilafs
pine nuts
pistachios
puddings, rice
raisins, e.g., golden
saffron
salads, e.g., rice
salt, e.g., kosher, sea
scallions
seeds, pumpkin
soups
squash, winter, e.g., acorn
stock, vegetable
strawberries
stuffings
sugar, e.g., brown
tarragon
turmeric
vanilla
Flavor Affinities
basmati rice + almonds + honey + orange + vanilla
basmati rice + bay leaf + cardamom + cloves + cumin
basmati rice + cardamom + cinnamon + dates + garlic + ginger
basmati rice + cardamom + cinnamon + ginger + vanilla
basmati rice + cardamom + milk + orange + raisins + vanilla
basmati rice + cumin + fennel seeds + saffron
basmati rice + cumin + ghee + mung beans + mustard + turmeric
BASMATIC RICE + DRIED FRUIT (e.g., apricots, dates, raisins) + NUTS (e.g., almonds, cashews, pine nuts)
basmati rice + fennel seeds + orange
RICE, BLACK (aka FORBIDDEN RICE)
Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of mushrooms and/or nuts
Volume: quiet–moderate
What’s healthful about it: antioxidants; even more nutritious than brown rice
Ratio: 1:2 (1 cup rice to 2 cups cooking liquid, e.g., stock, water)
Factoid: In ancient China, black rice was called “forbidden rice” because only nobles were allowed to eat it.
anise seeds
Asian cuisines
avocados
bananas
basil
beets
bell peppers, e.g., red, yellow
bok choy
cabbage, e.g., red
carrots
cashews
celery
cheese, e.g., Parmesan
chickpeas
chiles, e.g., chipotle, jalapeño
Chinese cuisine
chives
cilantro
cinnamon
COCONUT and coconut butter/ cream/milk
desserts
garlic
ginger
greens, e.g., collard
kimchi
lettuces
lime
mangoes
maple syrup
milk, dairy or nondairy, e.g., almond, coconut, hemp, rice, soy
mirin
mushrooms, porcini
nutmeg
nuts, e.g., cashews, peanuts
oil, e.g., olive, peanut, sesame
onions, e.g., red
onions, green
orange, e.g., juice, zest
peanuts
peas
pepper, black
pilafs
PUDDINGS, e.g., rice
pumpkin seeds
risottos
salads, e.g., rice
salt
scallions
Southeast Asian cuisines
soy sauce
soybeans, green
spinach
star anise
stir-fries
stock, vegetable
sugar, brown, palm
sushi
tempeh
Thai cuisine
tofu
vanilla
wine, white
Flavor Affinities
black rice + almond milk + cinnamon + vanilla
black rice + coconut/coconut cream/coconut milk + fruit (e.g., banana, mango) + sweetener (e.g., brown sugar, maple syrup, palm sugar)
black rice + ginger + star anise
black rice + kimchi + scallions
black rice + sesame oil + soy sauce
RICE, BOMBA (see also SPANISH CUISINE)
Tip: Bomba rice absorbs 30 percent more liquid than other rices.
asparagus
garlic
mushrooms
oil, olive
olives, e.g., green
onions, yellow
PAELLAS
paprika, e.g., smoked, sweet
parsley
saffron
Spanish cuisine
stock, vegetable
tomatoes
wine, dry white
RICE, BROWN—IN GENERAL
Flavor: nutty, with a chewy texture
Volume: quiet–moderate
What it is: whole grain
Nutritional profile: 87% carbs / 7% protein / 6% fat
Calories: 220 per 1-cup serving (medium-grain, cooked)
Protein: 5 grams
Timing: Cook at a low boil, covered, for about 30–50 minutes, until tender.
Ratio: 1:2 (1 cup brown rice to 2 cups of cooking liquid)
Tips: Because brown rice takes so long to cook, make sure you cook extra. You can freeze the leftovers, then reheat the frozen rice in about 10 minutes on the stove. If you’re short on time, quick brown rice cooks in about 10–15 minutes.
Brand: Lundberg Organic
basil
bay leaf
bell peppers, e.g., red
bibimbap
broccoli and broccoli rabe
burdock
cabbage, e.g., green, savoy, stuffed
carrots
cayenne
cereals, hot breakfast, e.g., with fruit and nuts
chili, vegetarian
cilantro
coriander
cucumbers
edamame
eggs
fennel seeds
fried rice
garlic
GINGER
GRAINS, other whole, e.g., barley, buckwheat, farro, millet, oats, rye, wheat berries, wild rice
greens
kale
LEGUMES, e.g., adzuki or black beans, chickpeas, lentils
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
lime
“meatballs” (e.g., brown rice + onion + parsley + walnuts)
miso
MUSHROOMS, e.g., shiitake
nuts, e.g., almonds, walnuts
oil, e.g., canola, olive, sesame
onions, e.g., green, red
PARSLEY
peas
pilafs
puddings
raisins
“risottos”
salads, e.g., grain
scallions
sea vegetables, e.g., hiziki, kombu
seitan
sesame seeds, e.g., black, and sesame paste
soups, e.g., tomato
SOY SAUCE
SPINACH
sprouts, e.g., bean, pea
squash, e.g., butternut
stir-fries
stock, vegetable
sweeteners, e.g., mirin, brown sugar
tahini
tamari
tarragon
thyme
TOFU and tofu skin
turmeric
vegetables, esp. root
veggie burgers
vinegar, e.g., brown, umeboshi
walnuts
watercress
Flavor Affinities
brown rice + almonds + cinnamon + fruit (e.g., blueberries, raisins) + maple syrup + vanilla
brown rice + black beans + garlic + kale + tahini
brown rice + broccoli + tofu
brown rice + brown sugar + dried plums + orange zest
brown rice + butternut squash + garlic
brown rice + cilantro + garlic + lime + onions
brown rice + edamame + ginger
brown rice + ginger + leeks + peas
brown rice + ginger + miso + tofu + vegetables
brown rice + kale + scallions
brown rice + lemon + tahini + vegetables
brown rice + lentils + spinach
brown rice + mushrooms + spinach + tofu
brown rice + sage + root vegetables
brown rice + sesame + shiitake mushrooms + tofu
RICE, BROWN—BASMATI (see RICE, BASMATI)
RICE, BROWN—JASMINE (see RICE, JASMINE)
RICE, BROWN—LONG-GRAIN
Flavor: earthy, with a fluffy texture and separate grains
Timing: Simmer, covered, for 40–50 minutes.
Ratio: 1:2 (1 cup rice to 2 cups cooking liquid, e.g., broth, water)
casseroles
pilafs
salads
soups
stir-fries
stuffings
RICE, BROWN—SHORT-GRAIN
Flavor: nutty, with a creamy, soft yet chewy and sticky texture
Timing: Simmer, covered, for 40–50 minutes.
Ratio: 1:2 (i.e., 1 cup rice to 2 cups cooking liquid, e.g., broth, water)
RICE, CARNAROLI (aka RISOTTO; see recommendations for RICE, ARBORIO)
What it is: rice with a slightly larger grain than Arborio rice grains
RICE, JASMINE (see also THAI CUISINE)
Flavor: aromatic, with notes of flowers, nuts, popcorn, and/or toast, and a soft texture
Volume: moderate
What it is: long-grain rice
Timing: 15–20 minutes
Ratio: 1:1½ (1 cup rice to 1½ cups cooking liquid, e.g., broth, water)
bay leaf
cashews
cilantro
coconut and coconut milk
cranberries, dried
curries
dates
desserts
fennel seeds
garlic
ginger
grapes
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
lemongrass
melon, e.g., cantaloupe
milk, coconut
orange, e.g., juice
peanuts
pecans
pesto
pilafs
plantains
salads
seitan
THAI CUISINE
tofu
walnuts
yogurt
Flavor Affinities
jasmine rice + coconut + lemon
RICE, LONG-GRAIN (see also RICE, BASMATI and RICE, JASMINE)
Tip: “Long-grain” refers to grains that are at least three times as long as they are wide. Opt for brown long-grain rice, which is higher in fiber than white rice, for more nutrients.
curries
fried rice
pilafs
salads
stews
stir-fries
RICE, SHORT-GRAIN (see also RICE, ARBORIO and RICE, SUSHI)
Tips: “Short-grain” refers to grains that are less than twice as long as they are wide. Opt for brown short-grain rice, which is higher in fiber than white rice, for more nutrients.
“bowls,” Japanese
cereal, hot breakfast
puddings, e.g., rice
risottos
sushi, vegetarian, e.g., nori rolls
RICE, STICKY
Flavor: sweet, with a sticky texture that makes it easier to eat with chopsticks
Volume: quiet
Tip: Soak sticky rice overnight before steaming.
Techniques: boil, then steam
Ratio: 1:1⅓ (1 cup sticky rice to 1⅓ cups cooking liquid, e.g., stock, water)
Brand: Nishiki
Asian cuisines
banana leaves
bananas
bibimbap
carrots
coconut and coconut milk
cucumber
desserts, Asian
gomashio
Japanese cuisine
kimchi
Korean cuisine
mango
mushrooms, shiitake
oil, e.g., grapeseed, sesame
pineapple
scallions
sprouts, mung bean
strawberries
sugar, e.g., brown
sushi
Thai cuisine
vanilla
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
sticky rice + coconut milk + mango
RICE, SUSHI
What it is: short-grain rice with a sticky texture
Techniques: boil, steam
Tips: Consider using sticky brown sushi rice to get more nutrients. Instead of using ordinary sushi rice, Beyond Sushi in New York City uses a delicious six-grain combination of (hull-less) barley, (pearl) barley, black rice, (short-grain) brown rice, red rice, and rye berries in its nori rolls and vegan sushi.
sushi
Flavor Affinities
sushi rice + rice vinegar + sugar
RICE, WILD
Season: autumn
Flavor: bitter/sweet, with complex earthy/savory notes of grass and/or NUTS, and a very chewy texture
Volume: moderate–loud
What it is: considered a whole grain, even though it is technically a seed (of aquatic grass) and not in the botanical grain family
What’s healthful about it: twice the fiber and protein of brown rice
Gluten-free: yes
Nutritional profile: 83% carbs / 14% protein / 3% fats
Calories: 170 per 1-cup serving (cooked)
Protein: 7 grams
Techniques: pressure-cook (20–25 minutes), simmer (covered, 35–60 minutes), steam
Ratio: 1: 3–4 (1 cup wild rice to 3–4 cups cooking liquid)
Tips: Rinse wild rice thoroughly before cooking. Combine with other rice(s) to lessen its chewiness.
Factoid: It is the only native North American grain.
almonds
AMERICAN CUISINE
apples, apple cider, and apple juice
artichoke hearts
asparagus
baked goods, e.g., breads, cakes
bay leaf
beans, e.g., green, white
bell peppers, e.g., red, yellow
bulgur
butter
cardamom
carrots
casseroles
celery
celery leaves and celery seeds
celery root
cheese, e.g., blue, feta, goat
chives
cinnamon
corn
crepes
dates
dill
eggs, e.g., frittatas, omelets
FRUIT, DRIED, e.g., cherries, CRANBERRIES
GARLIC
ghee
grains, other, e.g., barley, rice
greens, e.g., collard
hazelnuts
leeks
LEMON, e.g., juice, zest
maple syrup
Midwestern American cuisine
MUSHROOMS, e.g., chanterelle, cremini, morel, porcini, shiitake, white
mustard
Native American cuisine
nuts, e.g., macadamia
OIL, e.g., hazelnut, olive, walnut
ONIONS, e.g., green, red, white, yellow
orange, e.g., juice, zest
oregano
pancakes and waffles
parsley
pecans
pepper, black
pilafs
PINE NUTS
pumpkin
raisins
RICES, OTHER, e.g., basmati, brown, long-grain brown, red
sage
salads, e.g., wild rice
salt, e.g., kosher, sea
scallions
seeds, e.g., sunflower
shallots
soups, e.g., mushroom
sour cream
soy sauce
spinach
squash, summer and winter, e.g., acorn, butternut, kabocha
stock, vegetable
stuffings, e.g., cabbage, mushrooms, peppers, pumpkins, squash
tamari
tangerines
tarragon
thyme
vinegar, e.g., champagne, red wine, white balsamic, white wine
WALNUTS
watercress
wine, dry white
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
wild rice + beets + orange
wild rice + bread crumbs + celery + dried cranberries + herbs + onions + stuffings
wild rice + brown rice + nuts
wild rice + cider vinegar + walnut oil
wild rice + cinnamon + orange zest
wild rice + dates + pecans
wild rice + dried cherries + pine nuts
wild rice + feta cheese + lemon + mint
WILD RICE + FRUIT (e.g., apples, dates, dried cherries or cranberries, raisins) + NUTS (e.g., almonds, pecans, pine nuts, walnuts)
wild rice + garlic + spinach
wild rice + ginger + pineapple
wild rice + green onions + hazelnuts
wild rice + kabocha squash + sage
wild rice + pine nuts + shiitake mushrooms + spinach
wild rice + scallions + walnuts
RICOTTA (see CHEESE, RICOTTA)
What it is: While not technically a cheese, ricotta is commonly referred to as such and so is listed under “Cheese.”
RISOTTO (see recommendations for RICE, ARBORIO)
ROMAINE (see LETTUCE, ROMAINE)
ROOT VEGETABLES—IN GENERAL, or MIXED (see also BEETS, CARROTS, PARSNIPS, RUTABAGAS, SWEET POTATOES, TURNIPS, etc.)
“I’ll confit root vegetables—like carrots, celery root, parsley root, and parsnips—that have been shaved thin on a mandoline in olive oil with herbs, spices, and citrus for six to eight hours in an 85°F oven, which breaks down their cell wall structure. As they become tender, their water is replaced with fat. I strain and puree them, which creates the texture of room-temperature butter. Because this ‘root vegetable butter’ has the same qualities as butter or soft cheese, I can use it in similar ways, such as on canapés or to bind other ingredients.”
—AARON WOO, NATURAL SELECTION (PORTLAND, OR)
ROSEMARY
Season: winter (when rosemary is milder; it is stronger in summer)
Flavor: bitter/slightly sweet; aromatic; with notes of camphor, lemon, mint, pepper, pine, sage, smoke, and/or wood
Volume: moderately loud (winter)–loud (summer)
Technique: grill
Tip: Add early in the cooking process.
Botanical relatives: basil, lavender, marjoram, mint, oregano, sage, summer savory, thyme
apples
apricots
asparagus
BAKED GOODS, e.g., breads, cakes, cookies, focaccia, scones, shortbread
barley
bay leaf
BEANS, e.g., cannellini, dried, fava, green, white
beets
bell peppers
bouquet garni
bread crumbs
breads
Brussels sprouts
butter
cabbage, e.g., savoy
carrots
cauliflower
celery
cheese, e.g., cheddar, chèvre, cream, feta, goat, Parmesan, ricotta
chives
citrus
cream
desserts
eggplant
eggs and egg dishes
fennel and fennel seeds
figs
French cuisine, esp. Provençal
fruit, e.g., poached
*GARLIC
gin
grains
grapefruit
grapes
grilled dishes, e.g., vegetables
herbes de Provence
honey
Italian cuisine
kebobs, vegetable
lavender
leeks
LEMON, e.g., juice, zest
lentils
lime
lovage
marinades
marjoram
Mediterranean cuisines
milk
mint
mushrooms, e.g., morel, oyster, porcini, portobello, shiitake
oil, olive
onions
orange, e.g., juice, zest
oregano
parsley
parsnips
pastas, e.g., orzo
pears
peas, e.g., split
pepper, black
pine nuts
pizza
polenta
POTATOES
pumpkin
quinoa
radicchio
rice, e.g., Arborio
risotto
sage
salad dressings
salads, e.g., bean, fruit
SAUCES, e.g., barbecue, cream, pasta, tomato
savory
scallions
shallots
sherry
SOUPS, e.g., bean, minestrone, tomato
spinach
squash, summer and winter, e.g., acorn, butternut
stews
stock, vegetable
strawberries
stuffings
sweet potatoes
thyme
tofu
TOMATOES, tomato juice, and tomato sauce
vegetables, esp. grilled, kebabs, roasted
vinegar, e.g., balsamic, red wine
wine
yogurt
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
rosemary + balsamic vinegar + shallots
rosemary + balsamic vinegar + spinach
rosemary + butter + lemon
rosemary + feta cheese + spinach
rosemary + garlic + lemon + olive oil + white beans
ROSEMARY + GARLIC + OLIVE OIL + POTATOES
rosemary + honey + orange
rosemary + lemon + tofu
rosemary + lemon + white beans
rosemary + mushrooms + thyme
rosemary + onions + potatoes
rosemary + oregano + thyme
rosemary + Parmesan cheese + polenta
rosemary + Parmesan cheese + tomatoes + white beans
“Anytime you combine rosemary and thyme, you’ve got instant Thanksgiving! Their soulful, dark, rich flavors will enhance anything, from a bag of chips to a mushroom dish. But rosemary is very pungent, so you only need a little. I won’t add rosemary to a soup: by the time rosemary turns gray, it’s given everything it has to give, and you want it out of there anyway. Instead, I’ll use a rosemary branch to stir the soup and infuse the flavor.”
—RICH LANDAU, VEDGE (PHILADELPHIA)
RUTABAGAS
Season: autumn–spring
Flavor: sweet/sometimes bitter, with sometimes sharp, peppery, and/or pungent notes of cabbage, nuts, and/or turnips, and a crisp texture
Volume: moderate (esp. cooked)–loud (esp. raw)
What they are: root vegetables
Nutritional profile: 86% carbs / 9% protein / 5% fats
Calories: 70 per 1-cup serving (cooked, cubed)
Protein: 2 grams
Techniques: bake (at 350°F for 50–60 minutes), blanch, boil, braise, deep-fry, grate, hash, julienne, marinate, mash, pressure-cook, puree, roast, sauté, shred, steam (10–15 minutes), stew, stir-fry
Tips: Do not undercook. The longer it cooks, the sweeter the flavor, but do not overcook. Add a touch of sweetness (e.g., sugar) to counteract bitterness. Puree with quieter vegetables, e.g., potatoes.
Botanical relatives: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, horseradish, kale, kohlrabi, land cress, radishes, turnips, watercress
Possible substitute: turnips
agave nectar
allspice
almonds
APPLES, apple cider, and apple juice
artichokes, Jerusalem
baked goods, e.g., pies, tarts
barley
basil
bay leaf
beets
bok choy
broccoli
butter
caraway seeds
cardamom
CARROTS
casseroles
cayenne
celery
celery root
cheese, e.g., blue, cream, goat, Gruyère, Parmesan
chestnuts
chives
cinnamon
coconut milk
coriander
cream
cumin
dill
eggs, e.g., frittatas
farro
fennel and fennel seeds
garlic
ginger
greens, e.g., bitter, collard, dandelion
hash, e.g., served with eggs
hazelnuts
herbes de Provence
honey
horseradish
kale
leeks
lemon, e.g., juice
lentils
lime
mace
maple syrup
marjoram
mint
miso
mushrooms, wild
mustard
nutmeg
nuts, e.g., peanuts, pistachios
OIL, e.g., hazelnut, nut, olive, sunflower, vegetable
onions, e.g., red, yellow
orange, e.g., juice, zest
oregano
paprika, e.g., smoked
PARSLEY
parsley root
parsnips
pears
pepper, e.g., black, white
POTATOES, e.g., MASHED
purees
quinoa
raisins
rosemary
saffron
sage
salads
salt, sea
savory
scallions
Scottish cuisine
SOUPS, e.g., rutabaga
sour cream
squash, winter, e.g., butternut
star anise
stews
stir-fries
stock, e.g., root vegetable, vegetable
sugar, e.g., brown
Swedish cuisine
sweet potatoes
tarragon
THYME
tofu
tomatoes
TURNIPS
vanilla
vegetables, root
vinegar, e.g., balsamic, cider, malt, sherry
watercress
Flavor Affinities
rutabaga + apples + carrots + onions + sweet potatoes
rutabaga + apples + maple syrup
rutabaga + broccoli + carrots
rutabaga + caraway seeds + garlic
rutabaga + carrots + (fried) egg + parsnips + potatoes
rutabaga + carrots + mustard + parsley + potatoes
rutabaga + carrots + nutmeg + potatoes
rutabaga + cheese + potatoes
rutabaga + celery + onions
rutabaga + coconut milk + lime
rutabaga + leeks + turnips
rutabaga + parsnips + potatoes
rutabaga + potatoes + rosemary + thyme
“Rutabagas are one of those vegetables that are a hard-sell on a menu. I probably wouldn’t put a rutabaga gratin on Greens’ menu, but I’d tuck it into a dish as one of several ingredients [e.g., in a hash]—or perhaps not even mention that it was there.”
—ANNIE SOMERVILLE, GREENS RESTAURANT (SAN FRANCISCO)
RYE BERRIES (aka WHOLE RYE)
Flavor: sweet/sour, with notes of rye and walnuts, and a firm, very chewy texture
Volume: moderate–loud
What they are: whole grain
What’s healthful about them: a lower glycemic index than wheat and other grains; promote feeling full quickly
Gluten-free: no
Nutritional profile: 81% carbs / 13% protein / 6% fats
Calories: 150 per ¼-cup serving (dry)
Protein: 6 grams
Ratio: 1:3 (1 cup rye berries to 3 cups cooking liquid)
Tips: Rinse rye berries well. Soak overnight. Use in blends with other less chewy grains.
Botanical relatives: barley, corn, spelt, triticale, wheat
Possible substitutes: triticale, wheat berries
anise
apples
baked goods, e.g., breads
beans, e.g., black, kidney
beets
bell peppers, e.g., red
breads, e.g., pumpernickel, rye
cabbage, red
CARAWAY SEEDS
carrots
casseroles
celery
cereals, hot breakfast
cheese, e.g., goat, Gruyère, halloumi
chervil
chickpeas
chili, vegetarian
cinnamon
corn
dates
(Northern) European cuisines
fennel
garlic
GRAINS, OTHER, less chewy, e.g., barley, brown rice, quinoa
honey
leeks
lentils, e.g., red
maple syrup
molasses
mustard, e.g., Dijon
Northern European cuisines
nuts, e.g., pecans, walnuts
oil, e.g., olive, sesame, walnut
onions, e.g., caramelized, red
orange, e.g., zest
parsley
parsnips
peas
pilafs
potatoes
raisins
“risottos”
Russian cuisine
sage
salads, e.g., grain
sauerkraut
Scandinavian cuisines
soups, e.g., borscht
stews
stock, vegetable
stuffings
sugar, brown
sunflower seeds
thyme
tomatoes
vegetables
vinegar, e.g., apple cider, balsamic
Flavor Affinities
rye berries + apples + brown sugar + caraway seeds + red cabbage
rye berries + apples + cinnamon + raisins
rye berries + caraway seeds + carrots + celery + olive oil + onions + soy sauce
rye berries + raisins + walnuts
SAFFRON
Flavor: bitter/sour/sweet, with earthy/pungent notes of honey
Volume: quieter (yellow)–louder (orange, red)
Tips: Add later in the cooking process; saffron is activated by the heat of cooking. This bright yellow/orange-hued spice is used for its color as well as its flavor. A little saffron goes a very long way—never add more than is necessary.
baked goods, e.g., breads, cakes, scones
basil
bell peppers, e.g., roasted
biryani
butter
cardamom
cayenne
chard
chives
cinnamon
couscous
curries
desserts
eggplant
fennel
garlic
ginger
(Northern) Indian cuisine
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
marjoram
mayonnaise
Mediterranean cuisines
Moroccan cuisine
nuts, e.g., almonds, pistachios
oil, olive
orange, e.g., juice, zest
PAELLA, vegetarian
parsley
pasta, e.g., linguini
pepper, e.g., black
pilafs
potatoes
puddings, rice
*RICE
*RISOTTOS
rose water
salad dressings
sauces, e.g., cream, tomato
shallots
soups
Spanish cuisine
stews, e.g., bean, vegetable
tomatoes
yogurt
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
saffron + cardamom + rose water
saffron + Parmesan cheese + risotto
SAGE
Season: autumn (savory)–spring (minty)
Flavor: bitter/sour/sweet, with astringent/musty/pungent/rich/spicy notes of camphor, eucalyptus, flowers, herbs, lemon, mint, and/or pine
Volume: moderate–loud
What it is: herb
Tip: Add near the end of the cooking process.
Botanical relatives: basil, lavender, marjoram, mint, oregano, rosemary, summer savory, thyme
artichokes
asparagus
baked goods, e.g., biscuits, corn bread, focaccia
BEANS—in general, and e.g., borlotti, dried, pinto, WHITE
bread and bread crumbs
butter and brown butter
casseroles
CHEESE, e.g., Brie, cheddar, feta, Fontina, Gruyère, Parmesan, ricotta
chestnuts
corn
cornmeal, e.g., as corn bread
eggplant
eggs, e.g., frittatas, scrambled
fennel
GARLIC and garlic scapes
ghee
grains
gravies
juniper berries
leeks
lemon
lentils
marjoram
Mediterranean cuisines
mint
mushrooms, e.g., wild
OIL, OLIVE
ONIONS, e.g., yellow
parsley
PASTA, e.g., gnocchi, lasagna, orecchiette, spaghetti
peas, e.g., green, split
pepper, black
“pestos”
pine nuts
pizza
POTATOES
pumpkin
rice
ricotta, e.g., baked
risotto
rosemary
rutabaga
salads, e.g., bean, herb
sauces
savory
SOUPS, e.g., butternut squash, lentil, pumpkin, sweet potato, white bean
SQUASH, WINTER, e.g., acorn, butternut
stews
stock, vegetable
STUFFINGS
thyme
tomatoes
vegetables, e.g., root
vinegar
walnuts
Flavor Affinities
sage + bread crumbs + olive oil
sage + butter + lemon + Parmesan cheese + pasta
sage + butternut squash + walnuts
sage + cheese + tomatoes
sage + garlic + olive oil + parsley + winter squash
sage + garlic + potatoes
sage + garlic + white beans
sage + walnuts + pesto
SALAD DRESSINGS
Flavor Affinities
almonds + dill + garlic + lemon juice + tahini
apple cider vinegar + chives + garlic + lemon juice + olive oil + parsley + tahini + tamari
apple cider vinegar + cilantro + garlic + lime juice/zest + olive oil
apple cider vinegar + maple syrup + mustard
apple cider vinegar + onions + poppy seeds + tahini
avocado + cayenne + garlic + lemon juice + olive oil + parsley
avocado + cucumber + dill + lemon juice + maple syrup
BALSAMIC VINEGAR + BASIL + GARLIC + MUSTARD + OLIVE OIL
[Balsamic Vinaigrette] BALSAMIC VINEGAR + DIJON MUSTARD + GARLIC + OLIVE OIL [+ basil + lemon juice]
BALSAMIC VINEGAR + DIJON MUSTARD + GARLIC + ginger + maple syrup
BALSAMIC VINEGAR + DIJON MUSTARD + GARLIC + honey + tofu (e.g., silken)
[“Green Goddess”] basil + celery + dill + garlic + green onions + mayonnaise
BASIL + LEMON JUICE
black sesame + garlic + sesame oil + wasabi
BUTTERMILK + CHIVES
buttermilk + cider vinegar + dill + garlic + shallots
[“Ranch”] buttermilk + garlic + herbs [e.g., chives, cilantro, parsley] + lime + mayonnaise + salt
buttermilk + horseradish
[“Caesar”] capers + garlic + lemon juice + miso + olive oil
CARROT + dill + GINGER
CARROT + garlic + GINGER + onions + (cider) vinegar
CARROT + GINGER + miso
champagne vinegar + honey + canola oil
chickpea + garlic + lemon juice + mustard + (balsamic) vinegar
[“Green Goddess”] chives + parsley + tarragon vinegar + tofu
CILANTRO + cumin + LIME
cilantro + garlic + ginger + ponzu + sesame
cilantro + garlic + olive oil + red wine vinegar + roasted tomato
CILANTRO + honey + LIME
CILANTRO + LIME + garlic + olive oil + sherry vinegar
citrus + soy sauce
[Asian Peanut] coconut milk + curry paste + ginger + peanut butter + soy sauce
[Cucumber Dill] cucumber + dill + lemon juice + onion + silken tofu
cumin + lime juice
[“Caesar”]Dijon mustard + garlic + lemon juice + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + red wine vinegar + (vegetarian) Worcestershire sauce
Dijon mustard + garlic + lemon juice + olive oil + Vegenaise + vinegar
DIJON MUSTARD + LEMON JUICE + OLIVE OIL + orange juice + soy sauce
DIJON MUSTARD + LEMON JUICE + OLIVE OIL + shallots
Dijon mustard + red wine vinegar + shallots + walnut oil
[“Ranch”] dill + garlic + lemon juice + onion + parsley + Vegenaise + vinegar
dill + garlic + mustard
dill + tahini + tofu
feta + garlic + oregano
garlic + ginger + lemon juice + parsley + sesame oil
garlic + ginger + miso + orange
garlic + ginger + olive oil + rice vinegar + sesame oil + tamari
garlic + ginger + peanuts + rice vinegar + soy sauce
GARLIC + hemp seed + honey + LEMON JUICE + TAHINI
[“Ranch”] garlic + herbs + onions + soy milk + Vegenaise
garlic + lemon juice + mustard + tarragon
garlic + lemon juice + olive oil + tamari
garlic + lemon juice + orange juice
[Lemon Tahini] GARLIC + LEMON JUICE + sesame oil + TAHINI + tamari
garlic + lemon juice + nori + olive oil + soy sauce + tofu
[Greek] garlic + lemon juice + olive oil + crumbled feta or extra-firm tofu
GARLIC + LEMON JUICE + TAHINI + tamari + umeboshi plum vinegar
garlic + mustard + rice vinegar
garlic + olive oil + red wine vinegar
garlic + sesame paste/seeds + wasabi
GINGER + honey + MISO + rice vinegar
GINGER + LEMON JUICE + oil + tahini + tamari
GINGER + lemongrass + maple syrup + orange juice + rice vinegar + SESAME OIL
ginger + lime + mango
[Citrus Vinaigrette] ginger + lime + orange juice + vinegar
[Asian Sesame] GINGER + maple syrup + orange juice + rice vinegar + SESAME OIL
GINGER + MISO + mustard + sesame oil + tahini + tamari + (cider) vinegar
GINGER + MISO + sesame
ginger + peanut butter/oil + soy sauce
GINGER + SESAME
GINGER + SESAME + soy sauce
ginger + tahini
[“Green Goddess”] green onions + olive oil + parsley + shallots + white wine vinegar
[Italian] herbs (basil, oregano) + olive oil + vinegar
green onions + parsley + tahini + vinegar
honey + peanut oil + white wine vinegar
honey + poppy seeds + red wine vinegar
[“Thousand Island”] ketchup + onion + chopped pickle relish + silken tofu or Vegenaise
lemon juice + maple + mustard + tamari
lemon juice + mustard + nutritional yeast + tamari + vinegar
[Greek] lemon juice + oregano + thyme + (red wine) vinegar + crumbled feta or extra-firm tofu
[Japanese Ponzu] lemon juice + rice vinegar + sesame oil + soy sauce
lemon juice + tahini
lemon juice + mustard + olive oil + walnut oil
lime juice + (garlic + ginger + honey) + sesame seeds
lime juice + mint + rice wine
lime juice + miso + peanut oil
[Maple Mustard] maple syrup + mustard + (balsamic) vinegar
[Middle Eastern] chickpeas + garlic + lemon juice + vinegar
mirin + miso + soy sauce + (brown rice) vinegar
[Japanese Miso] miso + mustard + (rice wine) vinegar
miso + orange
miso + sesame oil
mustard + olive oil + parsley + tarragon
olive oil + orange juice + sherry vinegar + walnut oil
olive oil + red wine vinegar + shallots
orange + saffron + tahini
orange + sesame oil + soy sauce
PARSLEY + SCALLIONS + TAHINI + umeboshi purée
sesame oil/paste/seeds + soy sauce
SHALLOTS + SHERRY VINEGAR + walnut oil
“Every dish needs a vibrant quality about it. In a leafy green salad, when you toss it and serve it, it doesn’t have the leaves all upside down so their backs are to someone. I call it ‘fluffy and lofty’—the greens twins—that make the salad inviting. If you list a bunch of ingredients in the salad, don’t hide them all at the bottom. Make sure the stand-out ingredients stand out. And don’t go cheap: three extra cherry tomatoes is not going to break the bank. You want a person to feel that you care every step of the way.”
—ANNIE SOMERVILLE, GREENS RESTAURANT (SAN FRANCISCO)
SALSIFY
Season: autumn–winter
Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of artichoke hearts, asparagus (esp. white), coconut (esp. black salsify), Jerusalem artichokes, nuts, and/or oysters
Volume: moderate
What it is: root vegetable
Nutritional profile: 87% carbs / 11% protein / 2% fats
Calories: 95 per 1-cup serving (boiled)
Protein: 4 grams
Techniques: bake, blanch, boil (about 10–20 minutes), braise (about 45 minutes), fry, glaze, mash, pan-roast, poach, puree, raw, roast, sauté, simmer, steam, stew
Tips: Remove inedible peel. Soak in lemon water to avoid browning. Cook until very tender.
Botanical relatives: artichokes, chamomile, chicory, dandelion greens, endive, lettuces (e.g., Bibb, iceberg, romaine), radicchio, tarragon
anise
apples
artichokes
artichokes, Jerusalem
bell peppers, e.g., red
bread crumbs
burdock
butter and brown butter
carrots
cayenne
celery
celery root
chard, e.g., Swiss
cheese, e.g., Parmesan, sheep’s milk
chervil
chives
coriander
cream
currants
eggs
endive, Belgian
fennel
garlic
ghee
grains, e.g., pearled barley, quinoa, rice
gratins
hashes
hazelnuts
herbs
leeks
LEMON, e.g., juice
lovage
mushrooms, e.g., button, oyster, morel, wild
mustard, Dijon
nuts, e.g., almonds, pecans, pine nuts, walnuts
OIL, e.g., olive, pecan, safflower, sunflower, walnut
onions
onions, green
orange, e.g., juice, zest
PARSLEY
parsnips
pasta, e.g., fettuccine
pepper, black
polenta
pomegranates
potatoes
purees
quince
risottos
sage
salad dressings, e.g., vinaigrettes
salads
salt, e.g., kosher, truffle
sauces, e.g., hollandaise
scallions
SHALLOTS
sorrel
SOUPS, e.g., salsify, vegetable
stews
stock, e.g., mushroom, vegetable
thyme
tomatoes
truffles, black
vinegar, e.g., champagne, white wine
wine, white
yogurt
Flavor Affinities
salsify + apples + hazelnuts
salsify + bread crumbs + eggs + Parmesan cheese
salsify + chervil + chives
salsify + lemon + parsley + shallots
SALT—IN GENERAL
“Because of my French training, fleur de sel is one of the salts I rely on most. Its flavor is perfect with tomatoes. I’ll use Malden sea salt, which has lots of notes of the ocean, for dishes like roasted root vegetables. Sel gris, which often comes in blue bottles, is strong, and not as fine as other salts. I have nothing against kosher salt, but its flavor is just not what I’m used to working with.”
—JOSIAH CITRIN, MÉLISSE (SANTA MONICA)
SALT, BLACK
Flavor: salty; pungent with notes of eggs and/or sulphur
Volume: very loud
What it is: pinkish-gray Indian mineral salt
Tips: Look for Indian kala namak. Adds a boiled egg flavor to vegan dishes (e.g., tofu scrambles, “egg salads” made with tofu). Caution: A little goes a long way! Grind it fine to use in the smallest doses.
apples
bananas
chats
chili pepper flakes
chutneys
cucumbers
fruits
honey
Indian cuisine
kiwi
lemon, e.g., juice
oranges
pickles
raitas
salad, vegan “egg”
sauces, e.g., “cheese”
tofu, e.g., omelets, scrambles
tomatoes
yogurt
Flavor Affinities
black salt + chili pepper flakes + honey + lemon juice
black salt + cucumbers + tomatoes + yogurt
SALT, HIMALAYAN
“Himalayan salt is the only seasoning I use with any regularity. It definitely helps to bring the flavor out of virtually anything—especially raw food.”
—AMI BEACH, G-ZEN (BRANFORD, CT)
SALT, KOSHER
Volume: loud
Tip: Use kosher salt as an everyday salt for bolder-flavored or heavier dishes.
SALT, SEA
Volume: moderate
Tip: Use sea salt as an everyday salt for most dishes, especially to flavor dishes that are served cold.
SALT, SMOKED
Flavor: salty, with notes of smoke
beans
lentils
potatoes, e.g., baked
SALT, TRUFFLE
Flavor: salty, with earthy notes of truffles
Tip: Add just before serving.
celery root
eggs and egg dishes
popcorn
potatoes
risottos
salads
vegetables, e.g., root
SALTINESS
Tip: Adding salt to a dish diminishes the effects of bitter, sour, and sweet flavors. Below are some ways to add saltiness to a dish.
Bragg Liquid Aminos
Herbamare, an organic herb and salt blend
salt, e.g., kosher, sea, smoked, truffle
sea vegetables, e.g., dulse
soy sauce
tamari, organic wheat-free
“I’ve seasoned with sea vegetables like dulse to add minerals as well as saltiness.”
—DIANE FORLEY, FLOURISH BAKING COMPANY (SCARSDALE, NY)
SAUERKRAUT
Flavor: salty, sour and/or sweet, with a crunchy (fresher) or soft (older) texture
Volume: moderate–loud
What it is: fermented/pickled shredded cabbage
What’s healthful about it: live enzymes, probiotics
Nutritional profile: 80% carbs / 16% protein / 4% fat
Calories: 30 per 1-cup serving
Protein: 1 gram
Technique: braise
apples and apple cider
“bacon”
bay leaf
bread, e.g., rye
caraway seeds
carrots
casseroles
cheese, e.g., Swiss
chestnuts
dill
Eastern European cuisine
fennel seeds
garlic
juniper berries
mushrooms, e.g., porcini
noodles, e.g., egg
oil, e.g., grapeseed
onions
pepper, black
potatoes
rosemary
salad dressing, e.g., Thousand Island
salt
sandwiches, e.g., “Reuben,” “sausage”
sausages, vegan
savory, winter
shallots
sour cream
stews
sugar, brown
tempeh
vinegar, e.g., cider, white wine
wine, dry to off-dry white, e.g., Alsatian Riesling
Flavor Affinities
sauerkraut + apples + caraway seeds
SAVORY
Season: year-round, esp. summer (summer savory) and winter (winter savory)
Flavor: bitter, with earthy/herbaceous notes of mint, pepper, and/or thyme
Volume: moderately loud (summer savory)–loud (winter savory)
Tips: Use each type of savory in the season when it’s available; each naturally complements seasonal produce. However, one can almost always be used in place of the other. Winter savory is more biting and pungent than summer, so use less. Add at the end of the cooking process.
Botanical relatives: basil, lavender, marjoram, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, thyme
Possible substitute: thyme
basil
bay leaf
*BEANS, DRIED, e.g., cannellini, white (esp. winter savory)
BEANS, FRESH, e.g., fava, green, lima (esp. summer savory)
beets
bell peppers
black-eyed peas
bouquets garnis
cabbage
cassoulets, vegetarian
cauliflower
celery
cheese, e.g., cottage, cream, goat, Parmesan, and cheese dishes
chestnuts
chives
cumin
eggplant
eggs, e.g., omelets, scrambled
European cuisines
fatty foods
fennel
fines herbes
French cuisine, esp. Provençal
garlic
German cuisine
gravies
herbes de Provence
herbs, other, e.g., as a blending herb
Italian cuisine
kale
lavender
legumes
lemon
lentils
marjoram
Mediterranean cuisines
mint
mushrooms, e.g., porcini
nutmeg
oil, olive
olives
onions
oregano
paprika
parsley
pâtés
peas
polenta
potatoes
rice
rosemary
sage
salad dressings, e.g., vinaigrettes
salads, e.g., bean, potato
sauces, e.g., gravies, tomato sauces
seitan
shallots
soups, e.g., bean, split pea, tomato-based
squash, summer
stews
stock, vegetable
stuffings
tarragon
thyme
tomatoes and tomato sauces
vegetables, esp. root, e.g., turnips
vinegar, e.g., red wine, sherry
wine, red
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
savory + bay leaf + dried beans + onions
summer savory + artichoke hearts + fava beans + olive oil
summer savory + garlic + green beans
winter savory + eggs + onions + parsley
winter savory + garlic + tomatoes + sauces
SCALLIONS (aka GREEN ONIONS or SPRING ONIONS)
Season: spring (scallions)–summer (green onions)
Flavor: pungent notes of onions, with a tender texture
Volume: quiet/moderate (scallions)–moderate/loud (green onions)
What they are: baby onions that mature into green onions (Immature scallions and green onions are both often referred to as spring onions and can be used interchangeably.)
Nutritional profile: 81% carbs / 14% protein / 5% fats
Calories: 35 per 1-cup serving (raw, chopped)
Protein: 2 grams
Techniques: braise, broil, grill, pickle, poach, raw, sauté, simmer, stir-fry
Botanical relative: onions
artichokes
Asian cuisines
asparagus
basil
bay leaf
beans, e.g., black, fava, white
bell peppers
bok choy
broccoli
butter
carrots
cheese, e.g., cheddar, cream, goat, mild, Parmesan
chiles
Chinese cuisine
cilantro
cinnamon
cloves
corn
couscous
cream
crudités, esp. milder scallions
cucumbers
curry powder/spices and curries
daikon
dill
dumplings, Asian
eggplant, e.g., Japanese
EGGS, e.g., omelets, quiches
fennel
garlic
ginger
grains, whole, e.g., couscous
gravies
greens, e.g., bitter
honey
Japanese cuisine
Korean cuisine
leeks
lemon, e.g., juice
lima beans
lime
mangoes
marinades
milk, coconut
mint
miso
mushrooms
mustard, e.g., Dijon, and mustard seeds
NOODLES, ASIAN, e.g., soba
nutmeg
oil, e.g., olive, peanut, sesame
oranges
oregano
pancakes, scallion
papayas
paprika
parsley
pastas
peanuts
pepper, e.g., black, white
pineapple
POTATOES, e.g., baked, mashed
rice, e.g., black, brown, sushi, wild
risottos
rosemary
sage
salad dressings
SALADS, e.g., asparagus, corn, noodle, potato, tomato, zucchini
salsas
salt, e.g., kosher
sandwiches
sauces
scallion pancakes
sesame oil
SOUPS, e.g., gazpacho, mushroom, noodle
Southeast Asian cuisines
soy sauce
squash
stir-fries
stock, e.g., vegetable
sugar
tabbouleh
Thai cuisine
thyme
tofu
tomatoes
vegetables
vinegar, e.g., balsamic, champagne, cider, rice, white wine
walnuts
watermelon
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
scallions + black beans + corn + tomatoes
scallions + garlic + ginger
scallions + ginger + soba noodles
scallions + mint + zucchini
scallions + sesame oil + soy sauce
SCRAMBLES (see TOFU, SCRAMBLED)
SEA BEANS (aka GLASSWORT or SAMPHIRE)
Season: spring–summer
Flavor: salty/sour, with notes of apples (green), asparagus, the ocean, and/or spinach, and a crisp, crunchy texture (when fresh)
Volume: moderate
What they are: marsh plants
Techniques: blanch, deep-fry, pickle, raw, sauté, steam, stir-fry (Note: Cook quickly to retain its crispness.)
Botanical relatives: not sea vegetables
avocados
cayenne
chiles, e.g., red
dill
garlic
ginger
lemon, e.g., juice
lime, e.g., juice
mushrooms, e.g., shiitake
oil, e.g., olive
pepper, black
salads
stir-fries
tempura
vinegar, e.g., balsamic, rice wine,
white wine
SEA VEGETABLES (see also ARAME, DULSE, HIZIKI, KOMBU, NORI, WAKAME)
Flavor: salty, with notes of the sea
Volume: range from quieter (e.g., arame, wakame)–louder (e.g., hiziki)
Tips: Kept in a cool, dry area, sea vegetables store beautifully. Soak dried sea vegetables in cold water for 5+ minutes to reconstitute before cooking (and to reduce sodium). Serve either cold or hot.
“If you dry sea lettuce, it tastes just like black truffles—it’s an umami bomb! You can find sea lettuce along the San Mateo coast, and harvest it in the wintertime—just dry it and grind it to a powder to use to season sea vegetable salads or onigiri.”
—ERIC TUCKER, MILLENNIUM (SAN FRANCISCO)
SEASONALITY (see AUTUMN, SPRING, SUMMER, WINTER)
“Live in each season as it passes: Breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.”
—HENRY DAVID THOREAU
SEAWEED (see SEA VEGETABLES, ARAME, DULSE, HIZIKI, KELP, NORI, WAKAME)
SEEDS, CARAWAY (see CARAWAY SEEDS)
SEEDS, CHIA (see CHIA SEEDS)
SEEDS, FLAX (see FLAXSEEDS)
SEEDS, HEMP
Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of nuts, pine nuts, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, and/or vanilla, and a buttery, creamy texture
Volume: quiet–moderate
What’s healthful about them: omega-3 fatty acids
Botanical relative: marijuana (but without the same psychoactive properties, sorry)
Brand: Nutiva
almonds
avocados
BAKED GOODS, e.g., breads, cookies, muffins, piecrusts, quick breads
beans, white, e.g., cannellini
bell peppers
berries
blackberries
cabbage
carrots
cashews and cashew butter
CEREALS, breakfast, e.g., muesli
celery root
cheese, e.g., cottage
chili, vegetarian
chocolate
cilantro
dips
eggs, e.g., omelets
grains, whole
granola
lemon, e.g., juice
lime, e.g., juice
mushrooms, e.g., portobello
noodles, e.g., soba
oatmeal
oil, e.g., hemp
onions, green
PESTOS
pilafs
popcorn
rice
salad dressings
SALADS, e.g., green
smoothies
soups
spreads, e.g., chickpea
squash, winter, e.g., acorn, butternut
stir-fries
trail mixes
vegetables
veggie burgers
vinegar, white wine
walnuts
watercress
yogurt
SEEDS, POPPY
Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of nuts or smoke, and a rich, crunchy texture
Volume: quiet
Tip: Toast poppy seeds to heighten their flavor.
almonds
apples
Asian cuisines
BAKED GOODS, e.g., bagels, biscuits, breads, cakes, cookies, pastries, rolls
beans, e.g., green
blueberries
butter
buttermilk
cabbage
candies
carrots
cauliflower
cheese, e.g., ricotta
cinnamon
cloves
cream
curry powder
desserts
dips, e.g., cheese
eggplant
eggs and egg dishes
(Central) European cuisines
fruits
ginger
Indian cuisine
LEMON, e.g., juice, zest
lentils
Mediterranean cuisines
Middle Eastern cuisines
noodles
nutmeg
onions, e.g., sweet
oranges and blood oranges, e.g., juice, zest
pastas, e.g., pappardelle
potatoes, e.g., boiled
plums, dried
rice
Russian cuisine
SALAD DRESSINGS, esp. creamy, e.g., for fruit or green salads
salads, e.g., fruit, pasta
sauces, e.g., cream
sesame seeds
slaws, e.g., cole
soups
sour cream
spinach
strawberries
sugar
tomatoes
Turkish cuisine
vanilla
vegetables
walnuts
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
poppy seeds + blueberries + lemon
poppy seeds + lemon + vanilla
SEEDS, PUMPKIN
Season: autumn
Flavor: sweet, with notes of Brazil nuts and/or coconut, and a chewy (when raw) or crunchy (when toasted) texture
Volume: quiet
Nutritional profile: 71% fat / 16% protein / 13% carbs
Calories: 150 per 1-ounce serving (dried)
Protein: 7 grams
Techniques: bake (at 250°F about 60–90 minutes), boil, raw, roast (at 350 for 15–20 minutes), toast
Tips: Rinse seeds, then soak in salted water for a few hours. Let dry before toasting. You can also roast other winter squash seeds in the same way as pumpkin seeds.
Possible substitute: sunflower seeds
American cuisine
baked goods, e.g., breads, cakes, cookies, muffins
beans, e.g., black, green
breadings
caramel
cayenne
cheese, e.g., goat, quesos
chiles, e.g., chipotle, dried ancho, green, jalapeño
chili powder, e.g., chipotle
cilantro
cinnamon
coriander
corn
cranberries, dried
cumin
curry powder
enchiladas
garlic
grains, whole, e.g., farro, millet, wheat berrries
granola
hazelnuts
lemon, e.g., juice
lime, e.g., juice
maple syrup
masa
“mayonnaise,” vegan
MEXICAN CUISINE
moles
muesli
oatmeal
OIL, e.g., corn, olive, peanut, pumpkin seed, safflower, sunflower, vegetable
pestos
pumpkin
quinoa
raisins
rice, e.g., wild
salad dressings
salads, e.g., green, noodle, pasta
salsas
SALT, e.g., kosher, sea
SAUCES, e.g., mole, pumpkin seed
seitan
soups, e.g., butternut squash, pumpkin
South American cuisines
Southwestern (U.S.) cuisine
soy sauce
spinach
spreads
squash, e.g., butternut
stews
sugar, e.g., brown
tamales
tamari
tofu, e.g., in scrambles
tomatillos
tomatoes and sun-dried tomatoes
trail mixes
veggie burgers
yams
“I like to fry pumpkin seeds and treat them like nuts for our guests with nut allergies.”
—JON DUBOIS, GREEN ZEBRA (CHICAGO)
SEEDS, SESAME (see SESAME SEEDS)
SEEDS, SUNFLOWER
Season: autumn
Flavor: notes of nuts
Volume: quiet–moderate
Nutritional profile: 74% fat / 14% carbs / 12% protein
Calories: 165 per 1-ounce serving (dried)
Protein: 6 grams
Techniques: raw, roast, sprout, toast
Tips: To enhance flavor, toast before using. Check out sunflower seed butter as an alternative to peanut butter.
Possible substitute: pumpkin seeds
apricots
BAKED GOODS, e.g., breads, cookies, muffins, piecrusts
beans, green
casseroles
cereals, e.g., hot breakfast
cranberries, dried
desserts
fruit
GRAINS, WHOLE, e.g., kasha, millet, oats, quinoa, long-grain rice, wheat berries
GRANOLA
honey
leeks
lemon
lentils
molasses
muesli
nutritional yeast
nuts, e.g., almonds, hazelnuts
pancakes
pastas
pâtés
pestos
raisins
“risottos”
SALADS, e.g., green
seeds, other, e.g., flax, pumpkin
soups
Southwestern (U.S.) cuisine
spreads
stuffings
tamari
tofu, esp. silken
tomatoes, sun-dried
trail bars and mixes
veggie burgers
yogurt
Flavor Affinities
sunflower seeds + basil + garlic + olive oil + pasta
sunflower seeds + flaxseeds + millet
sunflower seeds + lentils + onions + pâtés
sunflower seeds + quinoa + raisins
“I’ve cooked sunflower seeds risotto-style in an onion fennel broth, accenting the dish with sunflower-seed puree and toasted whole sunflower seeds.”
SEITAN (see also tips for NAMA-FU)
[SAY-tahn]
Flavor: neutral, with a meaty (e.g., chicken cutlet-like) texture
Volume: quiet
What it is: a meat substitute made from wheat gluten, nicknamed “wheat meat”
Nutritional profile: 81% protein / 15% carbs / 4% fat
Calories: 105 calories per 1-ounce serving (vital wheat gluten)
Protein: 21 grams
Techniques: bake, barbecue, fry, grill, marinate, pan-sear, sauté, sear, steam, stew, stir-fry
Tips: For peak flavor, be sure to marinate the seitan for at least a few hours. Add texture through seasoned crusts, e.g., herbs, panko. Use seitan “scraps” for sauces, soups, taco fillings. Seitan also freezes well.
You can easily make your own seitan from scratch with vital wheat gluten, seasoning it to taste (e.g., as you would making your own chorizo or gyros). However, if you’re just getting started, you might try one of Arrowhead Mills’s quick mixes or a Knox Mountain mix. You can also find commercially prepared seitan from national brands like Lightlife and WhiteWave, or local producers like The Bridge (Middleton, CT).
Possible substitutes: tempeh, extra-firm or super-firm tofu
Asian cuisines
barbecue sauce
basil and Thai basil
bay leaf
beans, e.g., black, green, pinto, red
bell peppers
Bragg Liquid Aminos
broccoli and broccoli rabe
burdock
CAPERS and caper berries
carrots
“chicken” (+ chicken-flavored vegetarian stock)
chickpeas
chiles, e.g., jalapeño
chili pepper flakes and chili powder
Chinese cuisine
citrus
coconut
cornmeal (e.g., as a crust)
curry powder and curries
daikon
eggplant
fajitas
fennel
GARLIC
GINGER
“gyros,” esp. when served with pita and tzatziki sauce
herbs and herbes de Provence
hoisin sauce
Japanese cuisine
kombu
leeks
LEMON
lemongrass
lentils
macrobiotic cuisine
maple syrup
miso, e.g., white
MUSHROOMS, e.g., chanterelle, shiitake, wild
mustard, e.g., Dijon
noodles, e.g., rice
nori
nutritional yeast
oil, e.g., olive, sesame
olives
ONIONS, e.g., red, white
oregano
paprika, smoked
parsley
pastas
peanuts and peanut butter
PECANS
pepper, black
“piccata”
pilafs
pine nuts
polenta
ponzu
pumpkin seeds
rice, e.g., brown
rosemary
sage
salt, sea
sandwiches, e.g., club (with crisp tempeh “bacon”), Philly “cheesesteak,” “Reuben”
“sausage,” e.g., chorizo, Italian
“schnitzel”
sea vegetables
sesame seeds
shallots
shepherd’s pie
skewers
snow peas
soups
SOY SAUCE
spinach
sprouts, bean
stews
stir-fries
STOCK, e.g., mushroom, vegetable
stroganoff, e.g., mushroom
sweet potatoes
tahini
TAMARI
tamarind
thyme
tofu
tomatoes and tomato paste
tomatoes, sun-dried
turmeric
umeboshi plum sauce
vinegar, balsamic
wakame
walnuts
wine, e.g., dry red or white, Marsala, port
Worcestershire sauce, vegan
yuzu
Flavor Affinities
seitan + balsamic vinegar + ginger + maple syrup
seitan + basil + ginger + sesame + snow peas
seitan + bell peppers + “cheese” + onions
seitan + bell peppers + coconut milk + curry + onions
seitan + capers + garlic + lemon + parsley + shallots + white wine
seitan + capers + garlic + lemon + spinach
seitan + cayenne + fennel + garlic + paprika + “Italian sausage”
seitan + chickpeas + fennel + olives
seitan + citrus + herbs
seitan + daikon + ponzu + soy sauce + yuzu
seitan + eggplant + lemon + tahini
SEITAN + GARLIC + GINGER + kombu + soy sauce/tamari
seitan + garlic + lime + oregano
seitan + garlic + oregano + rosemary
seitan + maple + mustard + pecans
seitan + Marsala wine + shallots + thyme
seitan + miso + shiitake mushrooms + tamari
seitan + mushrooms + spinach + wine
seitan + olive oil + smoked paprika + “chorizo sausage”
“Tofu, tempeh, and seitan are the holy trinity of vegetarianism. Seitan is my favorite because of its versatility.”
“I love serving seitan with a crunchy crust, such as crushed cashews, pumpkin or sunflower seeds, or even quinoa. Instead of egg wash, we’ll dip the seitan in a vegan mixture of water, lemon juice, garlic, and nutritional yeast before crusting and sautéing.”
—ANGEL RAMOS, CANDLE 79 (NEW YORK CITY)
“I don’t know of any other vegetarian restaurant that offered a vegetarian Reuben sandwich before we did. Ours is made with a seitan-based pastrami ‘wheat meat,’ a little sauerkraut, spicy mustard, Thousand Island dressing, and Vegenaise on oversized Jewish rye bread, which you can get with either Swiss cheese, vegan cheese, or—my favorite—cottage-style tofu, which is mashed tofu seasoned with garlic, chives, and onions. I’ve probably eaten two hundred of them over the past ten years. In the beginning, we used to make our Reubens with vegetarian bacon bits, which softened on the sandwich, which was spread with a layer of Vegenaise. But the seitan version is more authentic.”
—BOB GOLDBERG, FOLLOW YOUR HEART (CANOGA PARK, CA)
SESAME OIL (see OIL, SESAME)
SESAME SEEDS—IN GENERAL (aka GOMA)
Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of butter, milk, and/or nuts (e.g., almonds), and a rich texture
Volume: quiet (white seeds)–moderate (dark seeds)
Nutritional profile: 73% fats / 16% carbs / 11% protein
Calories: 160 per 1-ounce serving (dried)
Protein: 5 grams
Techniques: raw, roast
Tips: Toast to bring out their flavor. Use ground or whole.
ASIAN CUISINES, esp. black sesame seeds
asparagus
avocado
BAKED GOODS, e.g., bagels, breads, breadsticks, cakes, cookies, corn bread, crackers, pastries, piecrusts
bananas
basil
beans, e.g., green
berries
broccoli
brown rice syrup
burdock
cabbage
carrots
casseroles
chickpeas
chili, e.g., pepper flakes, oil
Chinese cuisine, esp. black sesame seeds
cilantro
citrus, e.g., lemon, lime
cucumber
daikon
dates
desserts, e.g., cakes, cookies, puddings
dressings
falafel
fruit
garlic
GINGER
gomashio (sesame seeds + salt, in an 8:1 ratio)
grains, whole, e.g., barley, couscous, millet, quinoa, rice
granola
gravies
greens, bitter, salad
honey
Indian cuisine
Japanese cuisine, esp. black sesame seeds
kuzu
maple syrup
MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE
mirin
miso
mushrooms, e.g., shiitake
NOODLES, ESP. ASIAN, e.g., soba
nori
“pesto”
RICE, e.g., sticky
salad dressings
salads, e.g., fruit, green, pasta
salt, e.g., sea
sauces, e.g., mole, tahini
scallions
seeds, other, e.g., flax, hemp, poppy
seitan
sesame, e.g., butter, oil, paste
shallots
shiso, e.g., red
snow peas
soups
soy sauce
spinach
spreads
stir-fries
sugar snap peas
sumac
sushi, e.g., nori rolls
tahini
tamari
thyme
TOFU
tomatoes
trail mixes
vegetables
vinegar, rice
za’atar
Flavor Affinities
sesame seeds + avocado + greens + tomatoes
sesame seeds + bananas + coconut
sesame seeds + chili pepper flakes + hemp seeds + nori + poppy seeds
sesame seeds + ginger + honey + lime
sesame seeds + lemon + za’atar
sesame seeds + nori + shiso
sesame seeds + sumac + thyme
SHALLOTS
Season: summer–autumn
Flavor: slightly sweet, with complex notes of garlic and/or onions
Volume: quiet–moderate
Nutritional profile: 89% carbs / 10% protein / 1% fat
Techniques: bake, blanch, boil, braise, deep-fry, fry, grill, pickle, raw, roast, sauté, stew, stir-fry, toast
Tip: Shallots are quieter than garlic or onions.
Botanical relatives: asparagus, chives, garlic, leeks, onions
Possible substitute: onions
Asian cuisines
asparagus
avocados
basil
bay leaf
beans, green
beets
Brussels sprouts
butter
carrots
cheese, e.g., Roquefort
chiles
Chinese cuisines
chives
CITRUS, e.g., grapefruit, lemon, lime, orange
coconut milk
corn
cream
curries
dips
eggplant
eggs, e.g., omelets
endive
European cuisines, e.g., French, Italian
fennel
French cuisine, esp. northern
fruit
galangal
garlic
ginger
grains, whole, e.g., barley, bulgur, kasha, rice
gravies
greens, bitter, e.g., turnips
honey
legumes, e.g., lentils
lemongrass
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
lentils, e.g., yellow
lettuce
lime
marinades
Mediterranean cuisines
miso
MUSHROOMS, e.g., shiitake
mustard, e.g., Dijon
noodles, e.g., Asian, stir-fried
oil, e.g., grapeseed, hazelnut, olive, walnut
orange
papaya
parsley
parsnips
pastas
peanuts
pepper, black
POTATOES
raisins
rosemary
sage
SALAD DRESSINGS, esp. vinaigrettes
SALADS
salt, sea
SAUCES, e.g., butter, French
soups
SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINES
squash, e.g., butternut
stews
stock, vegetable
sugar, e.g., brown
tarragon
thyme
tofu
tomatoes
vegetables, e.g., root, e.g., turnips
VINEGAR, e.g., balsamic, brown rice, champagne, cider, red wine, sherry, white wine
WINE, e.g., dry red or white
Worcestershire sauce, vegan
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
shallots + chiles + ginger + lemongrass
shallots + herbs + lemon juice + mustard
shallots + lemon juice + Roquefort cheese + vegan Worcestershire sauce + yogurt
SHISHITO PEPPERS
Flavor: sweet/hot, with notes of citrus
Volume: quiet (for peppers)
What they are: small green Asian peppers
Techniques: grill, roast, sauté, stuff
Asian cuisines
cheese, e.g., blue, goat, Parmesan
chili pepper flakes
eggs, e.g., omelets, scrambled
lemon
miso
oil, e.g., canola, olive, sesame
pickled peppers
salt, e.g., sea
soy sauce
stir-fries
stuffed shishito peppers
Flavor Affinities
shishito peppers + chili pepper flakes + lemon + soy sauce
SHISO LEAF (aka JAPANESE BASIL or PERILLA)
Flavor: slightly sour; aromatic, with notes of anise, basil, cinnamon (esp. green), fennel, lemon, licorice, mint, pepper, and/or sage
Volume: quieter (red)–moderate/louder (green)
Tip: This Japanese herb comes in green (typical) and red (more astringent, with notes of anise, flowers, and mint).
Techniques: blanch, raw, steam, tempura-fry
Botanical relatives: basil, mint
Possible substitute: mint
avocado
beets
cabbage, e.g., napa
corn
cucumbers
daikon
edamame
garlic
ginger, e.g., pickled
grains, whole, e.g., bulgur, rice
grapefruit
JAPANESE CUISINE
Korean cuisine
lime, e.g., juice
melons
mirin
miso, e.g., white
mushrooms, e.g., shiitake
NOODLES, ASIAN, e.g., soba, somen
nori rolls (e.g., avocado + cucumber)
oil, e.g., olive, peanut, sesame
onions
peaches
rice, e.g., brown, sushi
sake
salads, e.g., pasta
scallions
seeds, e.g., pumpkin, sesame
snow peas
soups, e.g., noodle
soy sauce
spring rolls
stir-fries
sushi, vegetarian
tamari
tempura
TOFU, e.g., served chilled
umeboshi plums and plum paste
vinegar, e.g., balsamic, rice
Flavor Affinities
shiso leaf + avocado + cucumber + nori + sushi rice
shiso leaf + garlic + oil + soy sauce + vinegar
shiso leaf + ginger + lime
shiso leaf + ginger + tamari
SHOOTS, PEA
Season: spring
Flavor: sweet, with notes of peas, and a crispy/crunchy texture
Volume: quiet
What they are: pea sprouts before they grow into baby pea greens
Calories: 30 per 1-cup serving (raw)
Protein: 2 grams
Techniques: raw, or very lightly cooked; sauté, steam, stir-fry
Tips: Cook only briefly, if at all (e.g., quickly sauté in olive oil and garlic). Add to dishes at the end of the cooking process or just before serving.
Asian cuisines
avocado
basil
cheese, e.g., feta, goat, Parmesan
chervil
Chinese cuisine
chives
corn
dill
eggs, e.g., scrambled
endive, Belgian
GARLIC
ginger
grapefruit
kale
lemon, e.g., juice
mango
mushrooms, e.g., chanterelle, cremini
noodles, Asian
nori rolls
OIL, e.g., flax, OLIVE, roasted peanut, sesame
orange
pastas
pears
radishes
risottos
SALADS
salt, e.g., sea
sandwiches
seeds, e.g., sesame
shallots
soups
Southeast Asian cuisines
sprouts, e.g., sunflower
stir-fries
stock, vegetable
strawberries
sugar
vinegar, e.g., rice wine
wheat berries
SHOOTS, SUNFLOWER
Flavor: notes of lemon and nuts, and a crisp texture
Volume: quiet–moderate
What they are: sunflower sprouts before they grow into sunflower baby greens
Techniques: raw, sauté (very briefly!)
apples
avocado
cheese, e.g., goat, Parmesan
garlic
lemon
oil, olive
pepper, black
pestos
salads
salt, sea
sunflower seeds
yogurt
SLOW-COOKED
Season: autumn–winter
Tips: These herbs and flavorings taste better with longer cooking. For the opposite of slow-cooked, see freshness.
cumin
garlic
ginger
horseradish
onions
oregano
rosemary
shallots
thyme
SMOKING
Tips: It doesn’t take more than 30–60 seconds in a smoker to add a smoked flavor to many foods. You definitely don’t want to oversmoke foods, which makes them bitter and leaves an unpleasant brownish coating. Experiment with various woods for different flavors, but you’ll typically want to lean toward lighter woods like apple and cherry (which are sweeter), or perhaps oak and pecan (which are a bit louder), rather than hickory, maple, and mesquite (which are much more pronounced and can easily overwhelm fruits and vegetables).
Brand: Nordic Ware and other companies for small stovetop/grilltop smokers
“I like smoked flavors and smoke lots of different fruits and vegetables. Smoked lettuce has the flavor of a grilled hamburger. It’s comical how convincing it can be: Customers have accused us of putting bacon into our smoked potato puree dish, which evokes bacon and eggs. We’ll smoke garlic or onions and puree them for sauces—or to add a bacony note to pasta alla carbonara. Customers automatically expect raisins to taste dry, chewy, and sweet—but serving them raisins that have been pickled then smoked will make them think again.”
—JON DUBOIS, GREEN ZEBRA (CHICAGO)
“Sometimes I’ll add a little tequila to a black bean sauce to give it a unique smoky flavor—a sauce that would be delicious with chile-grilled seitan with collard greens and sweet plantains.”
—ANGEL RAMOS, CANDLE 79 (NEW YORK CITY)
SMOOTHIES (see also JUICES)
What they are: differentiated from juices in that they contain fiber, which makes them creamy and more nutritious.
Tips: When in doubt, add a banana for texture and flavor; they combine well with many other fruits and even vegetables. For richer-tasting smoothies, use frozen fruit.
“Smoothies made with tropical fruits will hide the flavor of strong greens. One of our most popular smoothies is the Island Green, which is made with coconut, coconut water, cucumber, kale, mango, pineapple, spinach, and strawberries.”
—CASSIE AND MARLENE TOLMAN, POMEGRANATE CAFÉ (PHOENIX)
“The seasons are an inspiration to all of us here. One autumn, I came up with an ideal seasonal treat: a sweet potato smoothie flavored with maple syrup, almond milk, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Every fall, we bring it back!”
SNACKS
Tips: When you’re craving a snack, reach for one of the healthier veg options below instead of the standard American snacks of salty or sweet processed foods. For example, if you’re craving chocolate, don’t snack on candy bars or even chocolate chips—try cacao nibs.
apples (e.g., with cheese or nut butter) and applesauce
baba ghanoush
bagel, whole grain, e.g., with nut butter
bananas
berries
bread, whole grain, e.g., with nut butter or other spread
cacao nibs
carrot sticks
chips, e.g., baked tortilla
crudités, e.g., with dip
dips, e.g., artichoke, bean, lentil, spinach
edamame, e.g., dry-roasted, fresh
eggs, e.g., deviled, hard-boiled
fruit, e.g., dried or fresh, e.g., apples, bananas, clementines, pears
graham crackers (whole grain), e.g., with nut butter
granola or granola bar
grapes, e.g., frozen
guacamole
hummus with raw veggies and/or whole-grain pita
melon
nuts and nut butters, e.g., almond, peanut
olives
peanuts
pesto, e.g., with whole-grain bread or vegetables
pickles and pickled vegetables
pita bread, whole grain
popcorn, e.g., with nutritional yeast
rice cakes
salsas, e.g., with baked chips
seeds, e.g., pumpkin, sunflower, esp. toasted
smoothies
soups, e.g., vegetable, with whole-grain bread or crackers
spreads, e.g., bean, sun-dried tomato
tortilla chips, baked, e.g., with salsa
trail mix
vegetables, raw, e.g., carrots, celery, cucumber slices, e.g., with dips
yogurt, e.g., fresh, frozen
Flavor Affinities
almond butter + apple slices (or whole-grain bread) + raw honey (one of Chef Matthew Kenney’s favorite snacks)
SNAP PEAS (see SUGAR SNAP PEAS)
SNOW PEAS (aka CHINESE PEA PODS) (see also SUGAR SNAP PEAS)
Season: spring, autumn
Flavor: sweet, with a crisp, crunchy yet tender texture
Volume: moderate
Nutritional profile: 73% carbs / 23% protein / 4% fats
Calories: 40 per 1-cup serving (raw, chopped)
Protein: 3 grams
Techniques: blanch, boil (2–3 minutes), raw, sauté, simmer, steam, stir-fry (2–3 minutes)
Tip: Cook only briefly–just 3 or 4 minutes.
Botanical relatives: peas, sugar snap peas
Asian cuisines
bamboo shoots
bean sprouts
bell peppers, e.g., red
bok choy
broccoli
butter
cabbage, e.g., napa
carrots
cashews
cauliflower
celery
chiles, chili paste, and chili sauce
Chinese cuisine
cilantro
coconut and coconut milk
curries, curry paste, and curry powder
five-spice powder
GARLIC
GINGER
herbs
hoisin sauce
kale
lemon
lemongrass
mint
mirin
miso
mushrooms, e.g., Asian, oyster, portobello, wild
mustard
NOODLES, ESP. ASIAN, e.g., ramen or udon
OIL, e.g., canola, peanut, sesame
onions, e.g., green, red
orange, e.g., juice, zest
pad thai
peanuts and peanut sauce
peas
pepper, e.g., black, Szechuan
ponzu sauce
radishes
rice, e.g., basmati, brown, wild
SALADS, e.g., Asian, bean, grain, noodle
salt
SCALLIONS
SESAME, E.G., OIL, seeds
slaws, e.g., Asian
soups
Southeast Asian cuisines
SOY SAUCE
sprouts, bean
squash, summer
STIR-FRIES
stock, vegetable
sugar, e.g., brown
sugar snap peas
tarragon
Thai cuisine
TOFU
vinaigrette
vinegar, rice
water chestnuts
Worcestershire sauce, vegetarian
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
snow peas + Asian noodles + lime + peanut sauce
snow peas + Asian noodles + mirin
snow peas + bell peppers + curry powder + scallions + tofu
snow peas + carrots + ginger
snow peas + carrots + honey + orange
snow peas + chiles + ginger + lemongrass
snow peas + coconut milk + garlic + lime
snow peas + garlic + ginger
snow peas + garlic + peanut oil + pepper
snow peas + ginger + scallions
SORGHUM (aka JOWAR and MILO)
Flavor: slightly sweet, with nutty notes, and the appearance of Israeli couscous; very chewy
Volume: quiet–moderate
What it is: whole grain
Gluten-free: yes
Nutritional profile: 89% carbs / 8% fat / 3% protein
Calories: 165 per ¼-cup serving
Protein: 5 grams
Techniques: pop (like popcorn), simmer (50–60 minutes), steam
Ratio: 1:3 (1 cup sorghum to 3 cups cooking liquid, e.g., water or stock)
African cuisines
avocado
bay leaf
carrots
cereals, hot
cayenne
cheese, e.g., feta, Parmesan
chili powder
chives
coconut milk
cucumbers
curry powder
garlic
ginger
Indian cuisine
khichuri
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
lentils
mirin
miso
oil, olive
onions, e.g., green, spring
orange
oregano
parsley
pepper, black
pilafs
pine nuts
popped sorghum (like popcorn)
porridges, e.g., savory or sweet
raisins
rosemary
salads, e.g., grain
salt, sea
sesame, e.g., oil, seeds
soups
soy sauce
stock, e.g., vegetable
tahini
thyme
vegetables
vinegar, rice
SORREL
[SOR-ell]
Season: spring–autumn
Flavor: bitter/very sour/sweet, with astringent notes of lemon and/or spinach, and a soft texture
Volume: moderate (younger and/or cultivated)–loud (older and/or wild)
Techniques: raw, simmer, wilt
Botanical relative: buckwheat
asparagus
basil
beans, e.g., green, lima, white
beets
bell peppers
bread crumbs
butter
carrots
celery
chard
cheese, e.g., goat, Gruyère, Parmesan, ricotta
chervil
chives
cream
crème fraîche
cucumbers
cumin
curry powder
custards
dill
EGGS, e.g., frittatas, hard-cooked, omelets, poached, quiches
European cuisines
French cuisine
garlic
grains, whole
gratins
greens, e.g., beet, salad
leeks
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
lentils, e.g., green
lovage
mint
mushrooms, e.g., porcini, wild
mustard
nettles
nutmeg
OILS, e.g., hazelnut, olive, walnut
olives
ONIONS, e.g., red, yellow
onions, spring
parsley
pastas
peas, split
peas, e.g., spring
pepper, e.g., black, white
pine nuts
POTATOES
purees
purslane
ramps
rice
risottos
SALADS, E.G., GRAIN, GREEN (esp. young sorrel)
salt, e.g., sea
sandwiches
SAUCES, e.g., cream, sorrel, white
shallots
SOUPS, e.g., cream, lentil, potato, sorrel
sour cream
SPINACH
stock, e.g., mushroom, vegetable
tarragon
thyme
tomatoes
vegetables, esp. green, grilled, root
vinegar, e.g., balsamic, red wine, sherry
wine, dry white
yogurt
Flavor Affinities
sorrel + asparagus + risotto
sorrel + chives + garlic + yogurt
sorrel + garlic + mushrooms
sorrel + garlic + yogurt
sorrel + mushroom stock + red onions + sauces
sorrel + garlic + nutmeg + onion + potatoes + purslane
sorrel + potatoes + spring onions + soups
sorrel + tomatoes + white beans + soups
SOUR CREAM
Flavor: sour, with a creamy texture
Volume: moderate–loud
Tips: Use fresh, or cook at low temperatures only. Try fat-free or dairy-free (e.g., cashew or tofu) sour cream.
Vegan Brand: Tofutti non-hydrogenated Better Than Sour Cream
baked goods, e.g., cakes, cookies
beans, black
beets
blintzes
chiles, e.g., chipotle
cilantro
corn
cucumbers
desserts
dill
dips
European cuisines, esp. Eastern, Northern
fajitas
fruit
horseradish
lemon, e.g., juice
lime, e.g., juice
Mexican cuisine
mustard, e.g., Dijon
noodles
pancakes, savory, e.g., corn, griddle
paprika
pepper, e.g., black
potatoes, e.g., baked
Russian cuisine
salads
salsa
sauces
scallions
Scandinavian cuisines
soups, e.g., beet, borscht, broccoli, carrot, mushroom, pumpkin, sweet potato
sugar, e.g., brown
toppings
vanilla
vegetables
Flavor Affinities
sour cream + chili powder + cilantro + garlic + honey + salt
sour cream + mustard + vegetable stock
SOURNESS
Tips: Sourness tends to sharpen other flavors. In small amounts, sour notes enhance bitterness; in large amounts, they suppress bitterness. Examples of sour foods are below:
apples, tart, e.g., Granny Smith, winesap
blackberries
buttermilk
caraway seeds
cheese, sour, e.g., chèvre and other goat cheeses, cream
cherries, sour
citrus
cloves
coriander
cornichons
cranberries
cream of tartar
crème fraîche
currants
fermented foods
fruits, e.g., sour, unripe
galangal
ginger
grapefruit
grapes, green
Kaffir lime
kiwi
kumquats
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
lemon, preserved
lemongrass
lime, e.g., juice, zest
milk, e.g., goat
miso
mushrooms, e.g., enoki
orange, e.g., juice, zest
pickled foods
plums, esp. unripe
ponzu
quince
rhubarb
rose hips
sauces, e.g., reduced wine
sauerkraut
sorrel
sour cream
soy sauce
sumac
tamarind
tomatoes, esp. green
verjus
vinegars
whey
wine, dry
yogurt
yuzu
SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE
beans, e.g., black
bell peppers
cheese, e.g., queso fresco
chiles
corn
fruit, tropical
maca
potatoes
quinoa
squash
yuca
SOUTHWESTERN (U.S.) CUISINE
What it is: an amalgam of Mexican, Native American, and Spanish influences
avocados
BEANS, e.g., black, red
bell peppers
cactus
cayenne
chayote
cheese, e.g., cotija, queso fresco
chiles, e.g., anaheim, ancho, chipotle, jalapeño, poblano, serrano; and chili powder
chocolate
cilantro
cinnamon
CORN
cumin
garlic
jícama
lime
masa
mushrooms
nuts
onions
oregano, Mexican
posole
pumpkin seeds
rice
scallions
squash
tomatillos
tortillas
squash
Flavor Affinities
bell peppers + black beans + brown rice + butternut squash + cilantro + scallions
SOYBEANS (see also EDAMAME, which are green soybeans)
Flavor: neutral, with notes of beans and/or grass
Nutritional profile: 43% fat / 33% protein / 24% carbs
Calories: 300 per 1-cup serving (boiled)
Protein: 29 grams
Timing: Cook presoaked dried soybeans about 3–4 hours. Do not pressure-cook, as soybeans foam, which can clog the valve and cause the cooker to explode.
Tips: Buy only organic (non-GMO) soybeans. Look for black soybeans, which have more flavor.
baked beans
bay leaf
cardamom
carrots
casseroles
cayenne
celery
chiles, e.g., chipotle, and chili powder
chili, vegetarian
cilantro
coriander
cumin
garlic
ginger
grains, e.g., barley, millet
honey
“hummus”
lemon, e.g., juice
mint
molasses
mushrooms
natto
nut butter, e.g., almond, cashew, peanut, walnut
oats
oil, e.g., peanut, sesame, sunflower
onions
peanuts
salads, e.g., grain, green
scallions
sesame seeds
soups, e.g., minestrone, vegetable
soy sauce
spinach
squash, e.g., kabocha
star anise
stews
tahini
tamari
tamarind
tempeh
veggie burgers
vinegar
wasabi
Flavor Affinities
soybeans + cilantro + mint + spinach
soybeans + nut butter + soy sauce
SOY SAUCE, NATURALLY FERMENTED (see also TAMARI)
Flavor: salty, with notes of caramel and/or toast
Volume: moderate–loud
What it is: brewed soybeans, sea salt, water, and wheat
Nutritional profile: 58% carbs / 41% protein / 1% fat (and very high in sodium)
Calories: 10 per 1-tablespoon serving
Protein: 1 gram
Tips: Add at the end of the cooking process or to finish a dish. Look for raw (unpasteurized) soy sauce. Japanese soy sauce tends to be slightly sweeter and louder than Chinese soy sauce. Those watching their sodium intake can opt for low-sodium soy sauce.
Brands: Nama Shoyu or San-J
Possible substitutes: Bragg Liquid Aminos, tamari
Asian cuisines
basil, Thai
chiles
Chinese cuisine
citrus
dumplings, e.g., Asian
eggplant
garlic
ginger
greens
honey
Japanese cuisine
marinades
mirin
molasses
mushrooms, e.g., portobello, shiitake
mustard and mustard paste
noodles, Asian, e.g., pad thai
oil, e.g., sesame, vegetable
onions
rice
salad dressings
sauces and dipping sauces
sesame, e.g., oil, seeds
soups
stir-fries
sugar
sushi, vegetarian
tamarind
tempeh
tofu
vinegar, rice
Flavor Affinities
soy sauce + brown rice + nori + sesame seeds
soy sauce + brown rice vinegar + chili sauce + lime + sesame oil
soy sauce + chiles + garlic
soy sauce + chiles + garlic + ginger + honey + mirin + scallions + sesame oil + vinegar
soy sauce + garlic + ginger + mirin + sesame oil
soy sauce + ginger + scallions
soy sauce + ginger + sesame
soy sauce + tamarind + tofu
soy sauce + Thai basil + tofu
SOY SAUCE, THAI (aka LIGHT, THIN, or WHITE SOY SAUCE)
Flavor: salty, with a thin, watery texture
Volume: moderate
Tip: Use instead of fermented fish sauce in Southeast Asian dishes.
Brand: Healthy Boy
marinades
noodles, e.g., Asian, rice
sauces, e.g., dipping
Southeast Asian cuisines
stir-fries
Thai cuisine
tofu
Vietnamese cuisine
SPANISH CUISINE
almonds
bay leaf
bread
custards
eggs
garlic
hazelnuts
lemon
oil, olive
olives
onions
orange
paprika, e.g., smoked, sweet
parsley
peppers, esp. guindilla, piquillo (esp. roasted)
pimenton
pine nuts
pomegranates
rice, e.g., bomba
roasted dishes
saffron
soups
stews
thyme
tomatoes
tortillas (crustless quiches filled with potatoes and/or vegetables)
vanilla
vinegar, sherry
walnuts
wine, e.g., sherry
SPELT BERRIES
Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of barley and/or nuts, and a dense, firm, chewy texture
Volume: quiet–moderate/loud
What they are: whole grain (Note: spelt is not the same as farro, which is a much faster-cooking grain.)
What’s healthful about them: higher in protein than wheat and some other grains
Gluten-free: no
Nutritional profile: 78% carbs / 16% protein / 6% fats
Calories: 250 per 1-cup serving (cooked)
Protein: 11 grams
Techniques: marinate, simmer, steam
Timing: If a richer flavor is desired, toast grains first. Rinse grains, presoak for 8 hours, and then simmer about 30–60 minutes, covered, until tender.
Ratio: 1:2 (chewy)–1:3 (soft) (1 cup spelt to 2–3 cups cooking liquid, e.g., water, stock)
Botanical relatives: barley, corn, rye, triticale, wheat
Possible substitute: wheat berries
allspice
apples
artichokes, Jerusalem
avocado
baked goods, e.g., breads, cakes, muffins
basil
beans, e.g., green, white
Brussels sprouts
butter
buttermilk
casseroles
celery
cereals, e.g., hot breakfast
cheese, e.g., feta, goat, Parmesan
chickpeas
chili, vegetarian
chives
cilantro
cinnamon
cumin
currants
dill
dolmas
escarole
European cuisines, e.g., Austrian, German, Swiss
fennel
French cuisine, e.g., southern
garlic
ginger
grains, other, e.g., brown rice
kale
kefir
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
lentils, e.g., black, green
lovage
marjoram
Mediterranean cuisines
mushrooms, e.g., black trumpet
nuts, e.g., almonds, hazelnuts, pecans, walnuts
oil, e.g., nut, olive, sesame
onions, e.g., caramelized, red
pancakes
parsley
pastas
pepper, black
pilafs
pine nuts
pizza dough
“risottos”
salads, e.g., grain, green
salt, e.g., sea
soups, e.g., minestrone, vegetable
squash, e.g., winter
stews
strawberries
stuffings, e.g., grape leaves, vegetables
“tabbouleh”
tarragon
tempeh
thyme
tofu
turnips
vinegar, e.g., balsamic
walnuts
za’atar
Flavor Affinities
spelt berries + apples + pine nuts + salads
spelt berries + balsamic vinegar + nuts (or tofu) + olive oil + raw vegetables
spelt berries + caramelized onions + lentils
spelt berries + cornmeal + pizza dough
spelt berries + currants + walnuts
SPINACH
Season: year-round, but especially spring–autumn
Flavor: bitter/slightly sweet, with a soft texture
Volume: quieter (when young)–louder (when older)
What it is: vegetable–green
Nutritional profile: 59% carbs / 32% protein / 9% fats
Calories: 40 per 1-cup serving (boiled)
Protein: 5 grams
Techniques: blanch, boil, raw, sauté, steam (2–3 minutes), stir-fry, wilt
Tips: Opt for organic spinach. Use as fresh as possible.
Botanical relatives: beets, quinoa, Swiss chard
Possible substitute: Swiss chard
allspice
apples
artichokes, e.g., globe, hearts, Jerusalem
arugula
asparagus
avocado
basil
beans, e.g., adzuki, black, cannellini, green, mung
beets
bell peppers, e.g., red, roasted
bread crumbs, e.g., whole grain
broccoli
burritos
butter
calzones
capers
cardamom
carrots
casseroles
cauliflower
cayenne
CHEESE, e.g., blue, cheddar, cottage, Emmental, FETA, Fontina, GOAT, Gorgonzola, Gruyère, paneer, PARMESAN, pecorino, RICOTTA, ricotta salata, Swiss
chervil
CHICKPEAS
chicory
chiles, e.g., green, jalapeño, serrano; and chili pepper flakes
chives
cilantro
cloves
coconut milk
coriander
CREAM
creamed spinach
crepes
cumin
curry powder/spices, and curries
dill
dips
eggplant
EGGS, e.g., Florentine, frittatas, hard-boiled, omelets, poached, quiches, soft-boiled, soufflés
falafel
figs
fruit, dried, e.g., cranberries, raisins
GARLIC
GINGER
gomashio
grains, e.g., barley, bulgur, quinoa
gratins
Greek cuisine
horseradish
Indian cuisine
Italian cuisine
Japanese cuisine
leeks
LEMON, e.g., juice, zest
lemongrass
LENTILS
lime, e.g., zest
lovage
mace
marjoram
Mediterranean cuisines
milk
mint
mirin
*MUSHROOMS, e.g., button, chanterelle, cremini, porcini, portabello, shiitake, wild
mustard, e.g., Dijon, dry
noodles, e.g., soba, udon
*NUTMEG
NUTS and nut butters, e.g., almonds, cashews, hazelnuts, pecans, pine nuts, pistachios, WALNUTS
OIL, e.g., almond, grapeseed, hazelnut, OLIVE, peanut, sesame, walnut
olives, e.g., kalamata
ONIONS, e.g., caramelized, red, sweet, yellow
orange, e.g., juice
oregano
parsley
PASTA, e.g., cannelloni, gnocchi, gnudi, lasagna, manicotti, ravioli, shells
pears
peas
peas, split
pepper, e.g., black, white
“pestos”
PHYLLO DOUGH, e.g., spelt, whole-wheat
pies
pilafs
PIZZA
polenta
POTATOES
purees
quesadillas
quinoa
raisins
ramps
RICE, esp. basmati, black, brown
risottos
rosemary
sage
salad dressings, e.g., creamy, hot
SALADS, e.g., green, mushroom, pasta, spinach
salt, e.g., sea
sandwiches
scallions
seeds, e.g., pumpkin, sesame, sunflower
sesame, e.g., oil, seeds
shallots
smoothies
sorrel
soufflés
SOUPS, e.g., mushroom, spinach, vegetable, yogurt
soy sauce
spanakopita / spinach pie
spreads
sprouts, e.g., mung bean, sunflower
squash, e.g., delicata, summer
stews
stir-fries
stock, e.g., vegetable
sugar (just a pinch)
sweet potatoes
tahini
tamari
tangerines
tarragon
thyme
TOFU, e.g., raw, silken, smoked
TOMATOES and TOMATO SAUCE
vegetables
veggie burgers
VINEGAR, e.g., balsamic, brown rice, cider, red wine, rice, sherry, white wine
YOGURT
yuzu, e.g., juice, zest
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
spinach + almonds + chanterelle mushrooms + lemon
spinach + artichoke hearts + feta cheese + pizza
spinach + avocado + grapefruit + red onions
spinach + beets + fennel + orange + walnuts
spinach + carrots + ginger + salads
spinach + carrots + orange + sesame (oil and seeds)
SPINACH + CHEESE + fruit (e.g., apples, pears, strawberries) + NUTS
SPINACH + CHEESE (e.g., blue, feta, goat) + NUTS (e.g., almonds, walnuts)
spinach + chili pepper flakes + garlic + olive oil + vinegar
spinach + chili pepper flakes + lemon
spinach + citrus + pomegranate + onion + walnuts
spinach + Dijon mustard + dried cherries + maple syrup + pecans
spinach + dried cranberries + goat cheese + hazelnuts + pears
spinach + dill + feta cheese
spinach + fennel + orange + red onions
spinach + feta cheese + garlic + lemon + nuts
spinach + feta cheese + orange + walnut oil
spinach + feta cheese + pasta
SPINACH + FRUIT + NUTS
spinach + garlic + ginger + peanut oil + soy sauce
spinach + garlic + goat cheese + herbs + phyllo dough + ricotta + walnuts
spinach + garlic + lemon + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + parsley
spinach + garlic + mushrooms + tofu
spinach + garlic + olive oil + pine nuts
spinach + garlic + rosemary
spinach + garlic + sesame
spinach + ginger + onions + orange + sesame
spinach + ginger + peanut butter + peanut oil + soy sauce
spinach + goat cheese + lemon + olive oil/olives
spinach + lemon + tahini
spinach + miso + sesame seeds + soy sauce + tahini
spinach + mushrooms + nutmeg + ricotta
SPINACH + NUTS (e.g., pine nuts, walnuts) + RAISINS
spinach + pumpkin seeds + wild rice
spinach + shiitake mushrooms + soba noodles
“Zucchini ‘noodles’ are soft and pliable—especially if blanched in lemon juice, which gives them a soft ‘cooked’ texture—making them the #1 raw pasta option. While using a spiralizer produces a more realistic noodle, using a mandoline is fine if you’re pressed for time.”
“I’ll use a spiralizer to make ‘noodles’ like vermicelli from raw kohlrabi or zucchini or other vegetables. Just massage them with a little oil and salt, and in just one minute, the noodles are no longer crunchy but chewy.”
—AMANDA COHEN, DIRT CANDY (NEW YORK CITY)
“Spiralized jícama looks like pho noodles. I’ll add them to a vegetarian pho [Vietnamese noodle soup], or a mushroom curry made with roasted shiitakes and purple sweet potatoes, with the red curry sauce poured tableside.”
—JON DUBOIS, GREEN ZEBRA (CHICAGO)
Weather: typically warm
Techniques: pan-roast and other stovetop methods
artichokes, esp. baby (peak: March–April)
artichokes, Jerusalem (peak: autumn/spring)
arugula (peak: spring/summer)
asparagus, e.g., green, purple, white (peak: April)
avocados (peak: spring/summer)
bamboo shoots (peak: spring/summer)
beans, fava (peak: April–June)
beets
blueberries (peak: spring/summer)
borage
boysenberries (peak: spring/summer)
carrots
cauliflower (peak: March)
chard, Swiss
cherries
chervil
chicory
chives, esp. garlic
cilantro (peak: spring/summer)
cucumbers (peak: spring/summer)
currants, red
dill (peak: spring/summer)
endive, e.g., Belgian, curly
escarole
fennel, esp. baby
fennel pollen (peak: spring/summer)
fiddlehead ferns
FRESHNESS, i.e., ingredients that are raw or only lightly cooked
garlic, e.g., green (peak: March), spring
greens, e.g., collard, dandelion (peak: May–June), mizuna, mustard, salad, spring
jícama (peak: winter/spring)
leeks
lemons
lemons, Meyer
lettuces, e.g., lamb’s, oak leaf, romaine, spring
lighter dishes
limes, key
loquats
mâche
mangoes (peak: spring/summer)
mint
miso, light
mushrooms, e.g., chanterelle,
morel (peak: April), shiitake
nettles (peak: spring/summer)
noodles, e.g., somen
onions, e.g., spring, Vidalia (peak: May)
oranges, e.g., blood (peak: winter/ spring)
oranges, navel (peak: March)
peas, e.g., English, spring, sweet (peak: May)
potatoes, new
radishes
ramps (peak: May)
rhubarb (peak: April)
scallions
shoots, e.g., garlic, pea
snow peas (peak: spring; autumn)
sorrel (peak: May)
soufflés
spinach
sprouts, e.g., daikon
strawberries
sugar snap peas (peak: spring)
tea, green, esp. early
tomatillos (peak: spring/summer)
tomatoes, heirloom
wakame (peak: winter/spring)
watercress (peak: spring/summer)
zucchini blossoms
“When I see ramps come in, I know there is light at the end of the tunnel—and that I will not be using squash and potatoes much longer! I look forward to spring’s asparagus and morels, which grow in the Midwest. When June hits, it is strawberry season.”
—JON DUBOIS, GREEN ZEBRA (CHICAGO)
“In the spring, asparagus is the first thing to roll in, then the peas, followed by the fava beans. We are lucky and spoiled here at Greens because we get great produce all year and we know it. It would be hard to do what we do anywhere else!”
—ANNIE SOMERVILLE, GREENS RESTAURANT (SAN FRANCISCO)