image SPROUTS—IN GENERAL, or MIXED

What they are: edible shoots of germinated beans, grains, or seeds (typically crunchy)

What’s healthful about them: many more nutrients than the nonsprouted versions

Techniques: raw, or very lightly cooked, e.g., steamed

Tip: Always buy sprouts from a trusted source, e.g., a respected farmers’ market provider, especially if you choose to eat them raw.

Flavor Affinities

sprouts + avocado + bread + carrots + cucumber + onions + tahini

 

image SPROUTS, ALFALFA

Flavor: slightly sweet, with nutty notes

Volume: quiet

Tips: Cook very quickly, or else they turn to mush. Beware possible toxins in raw alfalfa sprouts.

avocados

beans, e.g., pinto

bell peppers, e.g., orange, red

bread, e.g., whole-grain

cabbage

cilantro

dill

eggs, e.g., omelets

ginger

honey

lemon, e.g., juice

lime

mango

miso

nori rolls

onions, e.g., green, red

oranges

raisins

rice paper wrappers

salads

SANDWICHES, e.g., grilled cheese, wraps

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

slaws

smoothies

soups

sprouts, other, e.g., radish

stir-fries

sunflower seeds

tofu

tortillas, e.g., whole-grain

vinegar, rice

walnuts

watercress

wraps

Flavor Affinities

alfalfa sprouts + avocado + lime + mango

alfalfa sprouts + honey + lemon

 

SPROUTS, BEAN (see SPROUTS, MUNG BEAN)

 

SPROUTS, BROCCOLI

Flavor: neutral, with notes of broccoli

Volume: quiet

Calories: 20 calories per 1-cup serving

Protein: 3 grams

Techniques: raw, steam, stir-fry

Tip: Cook quickly, if at all, to preserve nutrients.

beets

carrots

cheese, e.g., Havarti, Muenster

salads, e.g., green

sandwiches, e.g., veggie burgers

sprouts, other, e.g., clover

stir-fries

tahini

 

SPROUTS, BUCKWHEAT

Techniques: Better served raw.

batters, e.g., pancake, waffle

carrots

lemon

salads, e.g., green

sandwiches, e.g., cheese

seeds, e.g., sesame

shoots, e.g., pea

sprouts, other, e.g., alfalfa

tahini

 

SPROUTS, CHICKPEA

Tips: Cook lightly, and never eat raw.

hummus

stir-fries

 

SPROUTS, CLOVER

Flavor: slightly sweet

Volume: quiet

cole slaws

eggs, e.g., omelets

onions

salads

sandwiches, e.g., peanut butter

sprouts, other, e.g., broccoli

stir-fries

 

 

SPROUTS, LEAFY (see ALFALFA SPROUTS and CLOVER SPROUTS)

 

image SPROUTS, LENTIL

Flavor: slightly sweet, with earthy notes of bell pepper, celery and/or nuts

Volume: moderate

Nutritional profile: 75% carbs / 21% protein / 4% fat

Calories: 80 per 1-cup serving (raw)

Protein: 7 grams

Techniques: steam (Note: never raw)

Possible substitutes: celery, green bell pepper

arugula

beans

butter

drinks, e.g., juices, smoothies

ginger

greens, salad

honey

lemons

onions

oranges

peas

rice

salads, e.g., green, potato

sandwiches

seeds, e.g., sunflower

soups, e.g., sprouted lentil

soy sauce

stews

stir-fries

vinegar

 

image SPROUTS, MUNG BEAN

Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of spring peas, and a crisp, crunchy, juicy texture

Volume: quiet

Nutritional profile: 70% carbs / 25% protein / 5% fat

Calories: 30 per 1-cup serving (raw)

Protein: 3 grams

Techniques: sauté, steam, stir-fry (just 30 seconds, to maintain sprouts’ crispy texture) (Note: never raw)

Factoid: the most-consumed sprout worldwide

Asian cuisines

beans, e.g., black

bell peppers, e.g., red

bok choy

butter

cabbage, e.g., napa

carrots

celery

cheeses, soft

chickpeas

chiles, e.g., red

Chinese cuisine

cumin seeds

curry powder

dips

drinks, e.g., juices, smoothies

egg rolls

eggs

garlic

ginger

greens, e.g., salad

hoisin sauce

hummus

Indian cuisine

kimchi

Korean cuisine

lemon, e.g., juice

lentils

lo mein

miso

moo shu vegetables

mushrooms, e.g., shiitake

mustard

mustard seeds

noodles, Asian, e.g., rice, rice vermicelli, udon

oil, e.g., grapeseed, peanut, sesame

onions, e.g., red

pad thai

parsley

peanuts and peanut butter

peas

quinoa

radishes

rice

rice paper wrappers

SALADS, e.g., Asian, potato, vegetable

salt, e.g., sea

sandwiches

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

slaws, e.g., Asian

soups, e.g., miso

soy sauce

spinach

spring rolls, i.e., fried

sprouts, other, e.g., adzuki, lentil

stews

STIR-FRIES

stock, vegetable

sugar

summer rolls, i.e., not fried

Thai cuisine

tofu

vegetables

Vietnamese cuisine

vinegar, e.g., rice

watercress

Flavor Affinities

bean sprouts + miso soup + tofu

bean sprouts + red bell peppers + shiitake mushrooms

bean sprouts + rice vinegar + salt + sugar + sesame oil/seeds

 

 

image SPROUTS, RADISH (see also SPROUTS, DAIKON)

Flavor: slightly sour/hot, with spicy notes of pepper and/or radishes

Volume: moderate–loud

avocado

bread, whole-wheat

cheeses, soft

dips

eggs, e.g., omelets

greens, salad

oil, nut (e.g., walnut), olive

onions, e.g., red

salad, egg

SANDWICHES, e.g., egg salad, wraps

shallots

slaws

stir-fries

sushi, vegetarian

vinegar, e.g., red wine

 

SPROUTS, SUNFLOWER SEED

Flavor: bitter/sweet, with earthy notes of sunflower seeds, and a crisp texture

Volume: quiet

avocado

basil

cheese, e.g., feta

citrus, e.g., grapefruit, orange

dill

garlic

kale

lemon, e.g., juice

oil, e.g., sunflower

parsley

pea shoots

salads

sandwiches, e.g., wraps

scallions

seeds, e.g., sesame, sunflower

shallots

smoothies

spinach

sushi, vegetarian

tomatoes

vinegar, red wine

 

SQUASH (see SQUASH, SUMMER; SQUASH, WINTER; ZUCCHINI, and other specific varieties of squash)

Tips: Spaghetti squash is named for its spaghetti-like strands, which you can toss with sauce and serve just like pasta. But consider slicing summer squash (e.g., yellow squash, zucchini) into julienne strips on a mandoline, or spiralizing it, and serving in the same manner.

 

images  SQUASH, ACORN (see also SQUASH, WINTER)

Season: autumn–winter

Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of black pepper and/or nuts

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 93% carbs / 5% protein / 2% fat

Calories: 85 per 1-cup serving (boiled, mashed)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: bake (e.g., at 350°F–375°F for 45 minutes), braise, mash, pressure-cook (3–8 minutes), roast, steam (10–12 minutes), stuff

Tips: Choose larger, heavier acorn squash. The texture is not good for pureeing.

Flavor Affinities

acorn squash + apples + curry powder

acorn squash + apples + maple syrup

acorn squash + cinnamon + olive oil

acorn squash + corn + potatoes

acorn squash + cranberries + orange

acorn squash + ginger + maple syrup + soy sauce

acorn squash + pecans + quinoa

 

SQUASH, BUTTERCUP (see also SQUASH, WINTER)

Flavor: sweet–very sweet, with notes of chestnuts, honey, and/or sweet potato, and a somewhat dry texture (akin to that of sweet potatoes)

Volume: quiet–moderate

Techniques: bake, braise, puree, roast (for 30–45 minutes at 400°F), steam

almonds

arugula

baked goods, e.g., muffins, pies

bell peppers

butter and brown butter

casseroles

cheese, e.g., feta, Taleggio

chiles and chili powder

cilantro

coconut milk

cumin

curries

garlic

ginger

gratins

hominy

honey

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice

lemongrass

oil, e.g., chili, corn, peanut

onions, e.g., red

parsnips

pasta, e.g., gnocchi, ravioli

peanuts

pears

pepper, black

purees

sage

shallots

SOUPS, e.g., minestrone, squash

soy sauce

spinach

squash, other winter, e.g., butternut

stews

stock, vegetable

tamari

yogurt, e.g., Greek

Flavor Affinities

buttercup squash + bell peppers + chiles + coconut milk + curry paste + peanuts

buttercup squash + ginger + pears

 

image SQUASH, BUTTERNUT (see also SQUASH, WINTER)

Season: autumn–winter

Flavor: sweet, with notes of butter, fruit, nuts, and/or sweet potatoes, and creamy in texture

Volume: moderate

Techniques: bake, braise, mash, puree, roast, simmer, sauté, steam, tempura-fry

Who says it’s healthful: The Center for Science in the Public Interest’s Nutrition Action includes butternut squash on its “10 Best Foods” list.

Nutritional profile: 93% carbs / 5% protein / 2% fats

Calories: 85 per 1-cup serving (baked, cubed)

Protein: 2 grams

Possible substitutes: pumpkin, sweet potatoes, yams

allspice

apples, e.g., fruit, juice

artichokes, Jerusalem

arugula

baked goods, e.g., muffins

barley

basil

bay leaf

BEANS, e.g., adzuki, lima, pinto, white

berries, e.g., blackberries, blueberries

butter and brown butter

cabbage, savoy

cardamom

carrots

casseroles

cauliflower

cayenne

celery

celery root

CHEESE, e.g., Asiago, Camembert, cheddar, cream, Fontina, goat, PARMESAN, pecorino, ricotta, Romano

chestnuts

chickpeas

CHILES, e.g., ancho, chipotle, jalapeño; chili pepper flakes; chili pepper sauce

chives

cilantro

CINNAMON

cloves

coconut and coconut milk

coriander

corn

couscous

cranberries

cream

cumin

curry powder and CURRIES

dates

eggs

fennel

GARLIC

GINGER

grains, whole, e.g., bulgur, farro, millet, quinoa

gratins

greens

honey

kale

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lemongrass

LIME, e.g., juice, zest

MAPLE SYRUP

marjoram

milk, dairy or nondairy, e.g., cashew

miso, e.g., white

MUSHROOMS, e.g., black trumpet, chanterelle, wild

NUTMEG

NUTS, e.g., almonds, hazelnuts, peanuts, pecans, pine nuts, pistachios, walnuts

OIL, e.g., canola, grapeseed, OLIVE, pumpkin seed, walnut

ONIONS, e.g., green, red, yellow

orange, e.g., juice, zest

oregano

paprika, smoked

parsley, flat-leaf

pasta, e.g., gnocchi, lasagna, ravioli

pears and Japanese pears

pepper, e.g., black, white

pizza

pomegranate seeds

PUMPKIN SEEDS

purees

raisins

rice, e.g., Arborio

RISOTTOS

rosemary

saffron

SAGE

salt, e.g., sea

savory

sesame seeds, e.g., black, white

shallots

shiso

SOUPS and bisques

spinach

star anise

stews

STOCK, e.g., mushroom or vegetable

succotash

sugar, e.g., brown

sunflower seeds

tahini

tamari

tarragon

tarts

thyme

tofu

tomatoes

vanilla

VINEGAR, e.g., balsamic, cider, red wine, sherry

wine, e.g., dry white

yogurt

za’atar

Flavor Affinities

butternut squash + allspice + cinnamon + cloves + maple syrup + vanilla

butternut squash + almond butter + cinnamon + garlic + ginger

butternut squash + almonds + cumin + raisins

butternut squash + apples + cinnamon + ginger + maple syrup + walnuts

butternut squash + apples + cheese + honey

butternut squash + apples + curry powder

butternut squash + apples + nuts (e.g., pecans, walnuts)

butternut squash + balsamic vinegar + mushrooms + pasta

butternut squash + bananas + cilantro + coconut milk + lime

butternut squash + brown butter + pine nuts + sage + pasta

butternut squash + chanterelle mushrooms + risotto + saffron

butternut squash + chickpeas + couscous

butternut squash + chiles + lime

butternut squash + cilantro + curry powder + lime + yogurt

butternut squash + citrus (e.g., lime, orange) (+ garlic) + ginger

butternut squash + coconut milk + lemongrass

butternut squash + curry + peas + tofu

butternut squash + fruit (e.g., cranberries, dates) + nuts (e.g., pecans, pistachios)

butternut squash + ginger + tamari + tofu

butternut squash + hominy + red beans

butternut squash + maple syrup + walnut oil

butternut squash + onions + pasta + pecans + sage

butternut squash + orange + sage

butternut squash + Parmesan cheese + pumpkin seeds

butternut squash + quinoa + walnuts

butternut squash + rosemary + tomatoes + white beans

butternut squash + sage + walnuts

Dishes

Butternut Squash Risotto with Toasted Almonds and Toasted Sage

—Gobo (New York City)

Soft Tacos: Corn Tortillas with Roasted Butternut Squash, Poblano Chiles, Peppers, Grilled Onions, Rancho Gordo Beans, Cheddar, Cilantro, Napa Cabbage, Avocado, Tomatillo Salsa, and Crème Fraîche

—Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

Butternut Squash Filled Ravioli, Olive Oil, Garlic, Lemon, Sage Leaves, and Ricotta Salata Cheese

—Mana Food Bar (Chicago)

Butternut Squash and Apple Salad with Endives, Ricotta Cranberries, Pecans, and Balsamic

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

Butternut Risotto: Toasted Pistachio, Brussels Sprouts, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Crispy Shallots, and Sage

—Portobello (Portland, OR)

Enchiladas Calabaza: Butternut Squash, Cream Cheese and Green Onions with Chiles, Cumin, and a hint of Cinnamon, baked in Organic Corn Tortillas, topped with Spicy Tomato Sauce and Cheese

—Seva (Ann Arbor, MI)

 

SQUASH, CROOKNECK (see also SQUASH, SUMMER)

Techniques: grill, raw, sauté

basil

bay leaf

chiles, e.g., jalapeño

cilantro

curry powder

marjoram

milk, e.g., nondairy (almond, coconut, rice)

mint

oil, e.g., olive, vegetable

onions

oregano

parsley

pepper, black

sage

salt

scallions

soups, e.g., squash

thyme

 

SQUASH, DELICATA (see also SQUASH, WINTER)

Season: winter

Flavor: sweet, with notes of butter, corn, and/or sweet potatoes, and a creamy, firm texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

Techniques: bake (at 350°F for 45 minutes), grill, roast, sauté, steam

Tip: Its thin skin can be easily peeled or even eaten.

Flavor Affinities

delicata squash + apple cider/apples + herbs (e.g., rosemary, sage) + walnuts

delicata squash + beets + feta cheese + mint

delicata squash + black pepper + garlic + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + pasta

delicata squash + brown sugar + soy sauce

delicata squash + chipotle chiles + lime

delicata squash + garlic + sage

delicata squash + honey + sage

delicata squash + orange + thyme

 

image SQUASH, HUBBARD (see also SQUASH, WINTER)

Flavor: neutral, with a watery texture

Volume: quiet

Techniques: bake, boil, mash, puree, roast

Possible substitute: pumpkin

allspice

almonds

baked goods, e.g., pies

bay leaf

beans, e.g., lima

carrots

cayenne

chives

cinnamon

curry spices, e.g., coriander, cumin

fennel

garlic

hazelnuts

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice

maple syrup

molasses

nutmeg

oil, e.g., olive

pancakes

pepper, black

purees

risottos

rosemary

sage

salt

soups

squash, stuffed

sugar, brown

tamari

 

SQUASH, KABOCHA (see also SQUASH, WINTER)

[kah-BOH-chah]

Season: summer–winter

Flavor: sweet with notes of honey, nuts, pumpkin, and/or sweet potatoes; dry and starchy yet creamy, custardy, and smooth in texture (when cooked)

Volume: moderate–loud

Techniques: bake (20–25 minutes at 400° F), boil, braise, deep-fry, mash, puree, pressure-cook, roast, simmer (20–25 minutes), steam

Tip: This is a quick-cooking squash with an edible skin.

Flavor Affinities

kabocha squash + brown rice + shiso + tofu

kabocha squash + brown rice vinegar + mirin + miso + tamari + umeboshi paste

kabocha squash + cinnamon + maple syrup

kabocha squash + coconut milk + curry spices

kabocha squash + coconut milk + Kaffir lime leaves + lemongrass

kabocha squash + garlic + ginger + sesame oil + soy sauce

kabocha squash + ginger + maple syrup + soy sauce

kabocha squash + hazelnuts + thyme

kabocha squash + kale + tamari

kabocha squash + mirin + scallions + soy sauce

kabocha squash + sage + wild rice

Dishes

Blended Essence of Butternut and Kabocha Squash, Smoked Paprika

—Brushstroke (New York City)

Kabocha Squash Curry: Bok Choy, Quinoa, Bulgur, and Pumpkin Seeds

—Gramercy Tavern (New York City)

Kabocha Pumpkin Soup with Soy Whip Cream and Mixed Greens Salad (with Dried Persimmon in Sesame Soy Sauce and Lemon Dressing)

—Hangawi (New York City)

Kabocha Squash Agnolotti with Pomegranate, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Walnut Crumble

—Mélisse (Santa Monica)

 

 

image SQUASH, SPAGHETTI

Season: late summer–winter

Flavor: slightly sweet, with the texture of crunchy (if stringy) spaghetti

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 86% carbs / 8% fats / 6% protein

Calories: 45 per 1-cup serving (boiled or baked)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake (at 350°F about 30–90 minutes), boil (about 30–60 minutes), roast (at 400°F for 15–20 minutes), sauté, steam (20–45 minutes, until tender)

Tips: Spaghetti squash is named after the appearance of its cooked flesh, whose strands resemble the pasta. You can bake it whole (as some insist on), after puncturing it in a few places to allow steam to escape, or halved (as Andrew taught me). Use a fork to pull off strands of cooked squash. Toss or top with sauce and serve like spaghetti. Although spaghetti squash can be found as early as late summer, look to pairing tips for winter squash, which its flavor more closely resembles.

basil

bay leaf

beans, e.g., black, kidney

bell peppers, e.g., red

bok choy

broccoli

bulgur

butter and brown butter

carrots

casseroles

chard

CHEESE, e.g., Gruyère, mozzarella, PARMESAN

chiles, dried; and chili pepper flakes

cilantro

cinnamon

eggs

fennel

GARLIC

ginger

gratins

hazelnuts

lentils

“meatballs”

mushrooms, e.g., button, chanterelle, oyster, porcini

nutmeg

oil, e.g., corn, flaxseed, olive, peanut, sesame

ONIONS

oregano

parsley

parsnips

“PASTA”

pepper, black

pesto

pistachios

rosemary

sage

salads

salt

sauces, e.g., pasta, tomato

“sausage,” vegan

scallions

soy sauce

sugar, brown

thyme

tomatillos

TOMATOES, TOMATO PASTE, and TOMATO SAUCE

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, rice, sherry, wine

walnuts

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

spaghetti squash + balsamic vinegar + kidney beans

spaghetti squash + basil + garlic

spaghetti squash + basil + tomatoes

spaghetti squash + brown butter + hazelnuts

spaghetti squash + garlic + tomatoes

spaghetti squash + mozzarella cheese + tomatoes

spaghetti squash + mushrooms + onions

Dishes

Spaghetti Squash Casserole with Fresh Mozzarella, Organic Tomato, and Zucchini

—True Food Kitchen (Santa Monica)

 

images  SQUASH, SUMMER (see also CHAYOTE; SQUASH, CROOKNECK; SQUASH, PATTY PAN; and ZUCCHINI)

Season: summer

Flavor: slightly bitter/sweet, with earthy notes of butter, cucumber, and/or nuts, and a tender, juicy texture

Volume: very quietquiet/moderate

What it is: vegetable

Nutritional profile: 73% carbs / 18% protein / 9% fats

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake (at 375°F about 20 minutes), boil, braise, deep-fry, grate, grill, marinate, mash, pressure cook (whole, 2–3 minutes), raw, roast, sauté, steam (5–10 minutes), stir-fry (2–3 minutes), stuff

Tips: Opt for organic summer squash. Eat the peel, too, which is a great source of fiber.

Botanical relatives: winter squashes

allspice

arugula

baked goods, e.g., muffins, quick breads

BASIL

beans, e.g., cannellini, white

bell peppers, e.g., green, red

bread crumbs

butter

capers

carrots

chard, Swiss

CHEESE, e.g., Asiago, cheddar, feta, goat, Gruyère, Monterey Jack, mozzarella, PARMESAN, pecorino, provolone, ricotta, ricotta salata, Swiss

chiles, e.g., dried, fresh, jalapeño, red, green; chili pepper flakes and chili powder

chives

cilantro

cinnamon

coriander

corn

curry, e.g., powder, spices

DILL

eggplant

eggs, e.g., frittatas, omelets

enchiladas

epazote

escarole

fennel seeds

GARLIC

ginger

grains, whole, e.g., bulgur

greens, e.g., mustard, turnip

LEMON, e.g., juice, zest

marjoram

mint

mustard, e.g., Dijon, and mustard seeds

nutmeg

OIL, e.g., canola, OLIVE

olives

onions, e.g., red

oregano

paprika

PARSLEY

pasta, e.g., lasagna, linguini, orzo, rigatoni

pepper, black

pesto

pine nuts

ratatouille

rice

risotto

ROSEMARY

saffron

sage

salads, e.g., green, pasta

salt, e.g., sea

savory

scallions

shallots

soups, e.g., squash

stews, e.g., vegetable

stock, e.g., vegetable

sunflower seeds

tarragon

thyme

TOMATOES and TOMATO SAUCE

tomatoes, sun-dried

vegetables, root, e.g., parsnips, turnips

VINEGAR, e.g., balsamic, cider, red wine, rice wine, white wine

walnuts

yogurt

zucchini blossoms

Flavor Affinities

summer squash + basil + tomato

summer squash + cheese + eggs + frittata + scallions

summer squash + cilantro + escarole + scallions

summer squash + eggs + frittata + goat cheese

summer squash + garlic + olive oil

summer squash + garlic + parsley

summer squash + lemon + rosemary

summer squash + mint + thyme

summer squash + pecorino cheese + truffles

 

images  SQUASH, WINTER—IN GENERAL, OR MIXED SQUASHES (see also PUMPKIN; SQUASH, ACORN; SQUASH, BUTTERCUP; SQUASH, BUTTERNUT; SQUASH, DELICATA; SQUASH, HUBBARD; SQUASH, KABOCHA)

Season: autumn–winter

Volume: moderate

What it is: starchy vegetable

Techniques: bake (at 375°F for 30–45 minutes), boil (6–10 minutes, in small pieces), braise, grill, mash, pressure-cook, puree, roast, sauté, simmer, steam (15–40 minutes), stew, stuff

Botanical relatives: cucumbers, melons, pumpkins

Possible substitutes: carrots, pumpkin

allspice

anise seeds

APPLES, e.g., cider, fruit, juice

baked goods, e.g., breads, cakes, cookies, muffins, pies

basil

beans, white

bell peppers, e.g., red

bread crumbs, e.g., whole-grain

burritos

butter and brown butter

cardamom

carrots

cashews

casseroles

cauliflower

cayenne

celery

CHEESE, e.g., blue, cheddar, feta, Fontina, Gorgonzola, Gruyère, mozzarella, Parmesan, pecorino, ricotta, ricotta salata, Romano, Roncal

chestnuts

chiles, e.g., dried, jalapeño, red; chili pepper flakes and chili powder

cider

cilantro

CINNAMON

citrus, e.g., juice, zest

cloves

coconut, e.g., butter, fruit, milk

coriander

cornmeal

cranberries, e.g., dried

cream

cumin

curry, e.g., paste, powder, spices

dates

eggs, e.g., poached

fennel seeds

figs and fig syrup

GARLIC

ghee

GINGER

grains, whole, e.g., farro, spelt

gratins

greens, e.g., mesclun, mustard

honey

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice

lemongrass

licorice

lime

mace

maple syrup

marjoram

mint

mirin

miso, e.g., white

molasses

mousses

mushrooms, e.g., chanterelle, wild

noodles, e.g., udon

NUTMEG

NUTS, e.g., hazelnuts, macadamia, pecans, walnuts

OIL, e.g., OLIVE, safflower, sesame, sunflower

ONIONS, e.g., green, RED

oranges, e.g., juice

pancakes

paprika

parsley

parnsips

pastas, e.g., ravioli

pears

PECANS

pepper, e.g., black

pies

pine nuts

pineapples

pistachios

potatoes

puddings

purees

quince

radicchio

raisins

radicchio

rice, e.g., brown, wild

risottos

rosemary

rum

SAGE

savory

scallions

seeds, e.g., flax, pumpkin, sesame (e.g., black)

shallots

soufflés

SOUPS, e.g., squash, winter vegetable

soy sauce

spreads

squash, other winter

squash, stuffed

stews

stock, vegetable

SUGAR, BROWN

tahini

tarragon

thyme

tofu

turmeric

vanilla

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, sherry

WALNUTS

Flavor Affinities

winter squash + apples + cinnamon + ginger + pecans

winter squash + bread crumbs + cheese

winter squash + brown butter + cheese (e.g., Gruyere, Parmesan, ricotta salata) + sage

winter squash + cashews + cilantro + coconut + curry powder + sesame seeds

winter squash + cinnamon + cloves + ginger + nutmeg

winter squash + cranberries + mustard greens + nutmeg + ricotta

winter squash + cranberries + pecans

winter squash + dill + sour cream

winter squash + garlic + leeks + olive oil + sage

winter squash + honey + lemon juice

winter squash + lime juice + soy sauce

winter squash + parsley + rosemary + sage + thyme

Dishes

Winter Luxury Squash and Ginger Soup with Pear Compote, Crème Fraîche, Chives

—Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

Chipotle-Glazed Roasted Winter Squash with Sage-Scented Risotto, Hazelnut Nogada Sauce, and Fried Sage

—Millennium (San Francisco)

Roasted Winter Squash, Tempeh-Kale Stuffing, Brandied Applesauce, Rye Breadcrumbs

—True Bistro (Somerville, MA)

Autumn Squash Pierogies, Chanterelles, Madeira, Hazelnut Picada

—Vedge (Philadelphia)

 

SQUASH, YELLOW (see SQUASH, SUMMER)

 

SRIRACHA (aka CHILI GARLIC SAUCE)

Flavor: bitter/sour/hot, with a smooth texture

Volume: loud

What it is: Thai hot sauce: chili paste + garlic + salt + sugar + vinegar

Tip: Huy Fong does not include fish sauce or shrimp paste, while other brands may.

Possible substitutes: veg Asian chili garlic sauce or Malaysian sambal oelek

Asian cuisines

carrots

cashews

celery

chickpeas

chili, vegetarian

fried rice

garlic

ginger

mushrooms

noodles, Asian, e.g., rice

onions, e.g., green, white

rice, e.g., jasmine

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

soy sauce

stir-fries

stock, vegetable

Thai cuisine

tofu

tomatoes

 

STAR ANISE

Flavor: bitter/sweet, aromatic, with pungent notes of anise, licorice, and/or spices

Volume: moderate–loud

Tips: Star anise is slightly more bitter than anise seeds, to which it is not related. Add at the beginning of the cooking process.

Possible substitute: anise seeds

Asian cuisines

baked goods

bay leaf

berries, e.g., blackberries

chiles

CHINESE CUISINE

chocolate, e.g., milk

cinnamon

citrus

curries

curry leaves and curry powder

five-spice powder

ginger

greens, e.g., mizuna

ice creams

Malaysian cuisine

marinades

mint

noodles, Asian

orange

pears, e.g., poached

pepper, black

plums

rose water

salad dressings

sauces, e.g., barbecue

sorbets

soups

soy sauce

stews

stir-fries

sugar, e.g., brown

teas

Vietnamese cuisine, e.g., pho

Dishes

Blackberry and Star Anise Sorbet with Rosemary Sable: Hazelnut, Lemon, Crab Apple, Brown Sugar

—Fearrington House (Fearrington Village, NC)

 

 

STOCK, “BEEF”

Brand: Better Than Bouillon’s “No Beef Vegan Base,” beef-flavored bouillon

 

STOCK, “CHICKEN”

Brand: Better Than Bouillon’s “No Chicken Vegan Base,” chicken-flavored bouillon

 

STOCK, MUSHROOM

Tip: Use a mushroom stock (made from several of the ingredients below) as an earthier, bolder alternative to vegetable stock in many heartier dishes, such as mushroom-based pastas, risottos, sauces, and soups.

bay leaf

carrots

celery

fennel

garlic

leeks

marjoram

MUSHROOMS, e.g., dried or fresh; mixed, porcini, shiitake, white

oil, olive

onions, e.g., yellow

oregano

parsley

pepper, black

rosemary

salt

tamari

thyme

wine, e.g., marsala

 

STOCK, VEGETABLE (see also DASHI)

Tips: Vegetable stock is a great staple to have on hand as a base for grains, legumes, marinades, rices, risottos, sauces, or soups. It’s easy to make by simmering your favorite combination of several of the vegetables and seasonings below with water. To make a louder version, roast the vegetables first. As a low-fat substitute, use vegetable stock instead of oil when sautéing or stir-frying foods.

basil

bay leaf

beans, black (fermented)

cabbage

carrots

celery

cilantro

garlic

kombu

leeks

lemongrass

marjoram

mirepoix (carrots + celery + onions)

mushrooms, e.g., shiitake, white

oil, olive

onions, e.g., yellow

oregano

parsley

parsnips

pepper, black

potatoes

rosemary

sage

salt, kosher or sea

savory

thyme

water

wine, dry white

“The foundation of my vegetable stock is about 60 percent onions, 25 percent celery, and 15 percent carrots. I’ll often add garlic and portobello or shiitake mushrooms and stems.”

—AARON ADAMS, PORTOBELLO (PORTLAND, OR)

 

image STRAWBERRIES

Season: spring–summer

Flavor: sweet/sour, and a delicate texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 85% carbs / 8% fats / 7% protein

Calories: 50 per 1-cup serving (raw, halved)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: puree, raw, sauté

Tips: Opt for organic strawberries. Adding sugar enhances strawberry flavor, as does adding an acid such as citrus juice or vinegar.

Botanical relatives: almonds, apples, apricots, blackberries, cherries, peaches, pears, plums, quinces, raspberries

Flavor Affinities

strawberries + almonds + lemon

strawberries + arugula + balsamic vinegar + pine nuts + ricotta

strawberries + balsamic vinegar + basil + burrata cheese

strawberries + balsamic vinegar + spinach + walnuts

strawberries + balsamic vinegar + tellicherry pepper

strawberries + basil + balsamic vinegar

strawberries + basil + Grand Marnier

strawberries + basil + lemon + mint

strawberries + brown sugar + cinnamon + oatmeal

strawberries + cream cheese + lemon

STRAWBERRIES + GINGER + MAPLE SYRUP + RHUBARB

strawberries + honey + lime

strawberries + lemon + ricotta

strawberries + maple syrup + thyme

strawberries + mascarpone + passion fruit + vanilla

strawberries + pistachios + yogurt

strawberries + rhubarb + vanilla

strawberries + ricotta salata + walnuts

“I know it’s boring, but the classic combination of strawberries and cream or vanilla ice cream is something you simply can’t improve on. Together, they have perfect flavor and texture.”

—AMANDA COHEN, DIRT CANDY (NEW YORK CITY)

Dishes

Strawberry Honey Shortcake, Strawberry Sorbet, Buttermilk Lemon Sorbet

—ABC Kitchen (New York City)

Strawberry Almond Cake: Almond Bavarois, Strawberry Gelée, Toasted Almond Ice Cream

—Café Boulud (New York City)

Strawberry Gazpacho with Basil, Black Pepper, and Olive Oil

—Eleven Madison Park (New York City)

Frais de Bois Vacherin with Lemon Parfait and Basil

—Eleven Madison Park (New York City)

Strawberry White Balsamic Salad with Spring Mix, Toasted Sunflower Seeds, Blue Cheese Crumbles, Dried Cranberries

—The Golden Door Spa Café at The Boulders (Scottsdale, AZ)

Local Leaf Lettuces and Belgian Endive with Local Strawberries, Ashed Goat Cheese, Tarragon Vinaigrette

—Nora (Washington, DC)

Strawberry Chopped Salad: Snap Pea, Fennel, Goat Cheese, Walnut and Balsamic Vinaigrette

—True Food Kitchen (Phoenix)

image

 

image SUCANAT

Flavor: sweet

Volume: moderate

What it is: a sweetener (SUgar CAne NATural) made from sugar cane juice that has been evaporated and granulated

Possible substitutes: Can substitute for regular (or muscovado) sugar in equal amounts, especially in baked goods.

 

image SUGAR, BROWN—DARK

Flavor: sweet, with deep notes of molasses

Factoid: Dark brown sugar is 6.5 percent molasses.

 

image SUGAR, BROWN—LIGHT

Flavor: sweet, with light caramel notes

Factoid: Light brown sugar is 3.5 percent molasses.

 

image SUGAR, DATE

Flavor: sweet, with notes of dates

Volume: moderate

What it is: ground dehydrated dates

 

image SUGAR, MAPLE

Flavor: sweet, with notes of maple

 

image SUGAR, MUSCOVADO

Flavor: sweet, with earthy molasses notes

Volume: moderate–loud

 

image SUGAR, ORGANIC CANE

Brand: Rapadura

 

 

image SUGAR SNAP PEAS (aka SNAP PEAS)

Season: spring

Flavor: sweet, with notes of peas and snow peas, and a crisp, crunchy texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 68% carbs / 27% protein / 5% fats

Calories: 70 per 1-cup serving (cooked)

Protein: 5 grams

Techniques: blanch, boil, braise (add at the last minute), raw, sauté, simmer, steam (2–3 minutes), stir-fry

Tip: To retain crispness, cook only briefly.

Flavor Affinities

sugar snap peas + basil + garlic scapes

sugar snap peas + basil + stir-fries + tofu

sugar snap peas + chiles + garlic + lemon

sugar snap peas + cumin + thyme

sugar snap peas + dill + olive oil + scallions

sugar snap peas + garlic + lemon zest + pasta

sugar snap peas + garlic + mushrooms

sugar snap peas + garlic + pine nuts

sugar snap peas + ginger + sesame oil

sugar snap peas + lemon + mint

sugar snap peas + mustard + olive oil + vinegar

sugar snap peas + noodles/pasta + peanut sauce + soy sauce

sugar snap peas + sesame oil + sesame seeds

Dishes

Snap Pea Salad: Goat’s Milk Yogurt, Cucumber, and Radish

—Gramercy Tavern (New York City)

Spring Chopped Salad with Snap Peas, Strawberries, Walnuts, Goat Cheese, and Balsamic Vinaigrette

—True Food Kitchen (Santa Monica)

image

 

SUMAC

[SOO-mack]

Flavor: bitter/salty/sour/sweet, with astringent fruity and/or lemony notes

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: a tart-flavored spice

Tip: Add to foods over which you might otherwise squeeze lemon juice or grate lemon zest.

(North) African cuisines

avocados

beans, e.g., white

beets

bell peppers

breads, e.g., pita

cheese, e.g., feta

chickpeas

chiles and chili powder

cilantro

coriander

cucumbers

cumin

dips

drinks, e.g., “lemonade”

dukkah (Egyptian spice blend of almonds + coriander + cumin + salt + sesame seeds + sumac)

eggplant

eggs, e.g., boiled

falafel

fennel

garlic

ginger

grains, whole, e.g., farro, quinoa

HUMMUS

Iranian cuisine

kebabs

Lebanese cuisine

lemon, e.g., juice

lentils, e.g., red

marinades

mayonnaise

(Eastern) Mediterranean cuisine

MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINES

mint

Moroccan cuisine

oil, olive

ONIONS, e.g., raw

orange

oregano

parsley

pepper, black

pilafs

pine nuts

pomegranates

purslane

rice

salad dressings, e.g., tahini

SALADS, e.g., chickpea, cucumber, fattoush, tomato

salt

sauces

sesame seeds

sour cream

stews

sugar snap peas

Syrian cuisine

tahini

THYME

tomatoes

Turkish cuisine

vegetables

walnuts

yogurt

za’atar

zucchini

 

SUMMER

Weather: typically hot

Techniques: barbecue, grill, marinate, raw, sauté

anise hyssop

apricots (peak: June)

arugula (peak: spring/summer)

avocados (peak: spring/summer)

bamboo shoots (peak: spring/summer)

basil (peak: summer)

beans, e.g., cranberry, fava, green, lima

bell peppers, e.g., red or yellow (peak: summer/autumn)

berries (peak: spring/summer)

blackberries (peak: June)

blueberries (peak: July)

boiled dishes

bok choy (peak: summer/autumn)

boysenberries (peak: June)

callaloo

celery (peak: summer/autumn)

chard (peak: summer/autumn)

cherries

chickpeas, fresh

chiles, e.g., poblano

chilled dishes and beverages

cilantro (peak: spring/summer)

corn (peak: July–August)

cucumbers (peak: August)

currants, black

dill (peak: spring/summer)

edamame

eggplant

elderberries and elderflower

escarole (peak: summer/autumn)

fennel pollen (peak: spring/summer)

figs (peak: August)

flowers, edible

FRESHNESS

garlic (peak: August)

goji berries (peak: summer/autumn)

grapes (peak: summer/autumn)

greens, e.g., beet, leafy, mizuna

grilled dishes

grilling

guavas (peak: summer/autumn)

herbs, cooling, e.g., basil, cilantro, dill, fennel, licorice, marjoram, mint

horseradish (peak: summer/autumn)

huckleberries

ice cream

ices and granitas

jackfruit

kohlrabi (peak: summer/autumn)

lamb’s-quarter

lettuce, e.g., green leaf, lamb’s, red leaf

limes (peak: June)

loquats

lychees

mangoes (peak: spring/summer)

melons, e.g., cantaloupe (peak: August)

miso, light

mushrooms, e.g., chicken of the woods, hedgehog, lobster, porcini

nectarines (peak: July)

nettles (peak: spring/summer)

noodles, e.g., chilled, somen

okra (peak: August)

onions (peak: August)

onions, green

onions, red (peak: July), Vidalia (peak: June)

papalo

papayas (peak: summer/autumn)

peaches (peak: July–August)

pears, Bartlett (peak: August)

peas (peak: spring/summer)

picnics

plums (peak: August)

potatoes, e.g., new (peak: spring/summer)

puddings, summer

purslane

raspberries (peak: June–August)

raw foods (e.g., salads)

SALADS, e.g., fruit, green, pasta

salsas, fresh

savory, summer

sea beans

shallots (peak: summer/autumn)

slaws

snow peas (peak: June–July)

sorbets

soups, chilled, e.g., fruit, gazpacho

spices, cooking, e.g., peppercorns, white; turmeric

sprouts, daikon (peak: spring/summer)

SQUASH, SUMMER, e.g., pattypan, yellow, zucchini

steamed dishes

stone fruits, e.g., peaches, plums

strawberries (peak: spring/summer)

summer rolls

tarragon

thyme

tomatillos (peak: August)

TOMATOES

vegetables, green leafy

watercress

WATERMELON

ZUCCHINI and ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS (peak: July)

Summer is the easiest time of the year to cook because there is so much out there. It is all the flavors people wish they could eat year-round: fruit, tomatoes, and corn.”

—JON DUBOIS, GREEN ZEBRA (CHICAGO)