SUNCHOKES (see ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM)
SUNFLOWER SEEDS (see SEEDS, SUNFLOWER)
SUNFLOWER SHOOTS (see SHOOTS, SUNFLOWER)
SUSHI, VEGETARIAN (see NORI and NORI ROLLS)
SWEET POTATOES
Season: autumn–winter
Flavor: slightly sweet–sweet, with notes of chestnuts, pumpkin, and/or vanilla, and a soft texture (when cooked)
Volume: moderate–loud
What they are: starchy vegetable
Who says they’re healthful: The Center for Science in the Public Interest’s Nutrition Action lists sweet potatoes on its “10 Best Foods” list and as “a nutritional All-Star—one of the best vegetables you can eat.”
Nutritional profile: 93% carbs / 6% protein / 1% fats
Calories: 180 per 1-cup serving (baked)
Protein: 4 grams
Techniques: bake (whole, after pricking skins, at 400°F about 40–60+ minutes), boil (about 25–40 minutes), broil, candy, deep-fry, fry, grill (or wrap in foil and place in coals), mash, pressure-cook (3–7 minutes), puree, roast, sauté, simmer, steam (slices, about 20 minutes)
Possible substitutes: carrots, pumpkin, winter squash, yams
agave nectar
allspice
APPLES, apple cider, apple juice, and applesauce
apricots
arugula
baked goods, e.g., biscuits, breads, cakes, cookies, muffins, pies
bananas
basil and Thai basil
bay leaf
BEANS, e.g., BLACK, green
beans, green
BELL PEPPERS, e.g., green, red, yellow
bourbon
burritos
butter and brown butter
caramel
cardamom
carrots
casseroles
cauliflower
cayenne
celery
chard, Swiss
cheese, e.g., blue, feta, Fontina, goat, Parmesan, Stilton, Taleggio
chickpeas
CHILES, e.g., chipotle, green, jalapeño, poblano
chili, e.g., flakes, paste, powder
chips, vegetable
chocolate
CILANTRO
CINNAMON
cloves
COCONUT, e.g., butter, cream, milk
coriander
corn
cranberries, e.g., dried, juice
cream
crème fraîche
croutons, whole-grain
cumin
curries
curry, e.g., powder, spices
custards
desserts, e.g., custards, pies, puddings
eggs
fennel
figs
fruit, dried
garam masala
GARLIC
ghee (clarified butter)
GINGER
grains, whole, e.g., barley, couscous, millet, oats
gratins
greens, e.g., collard, mustard, salad
hash
hoisin sauce
honey
Indian cuisine
Italian cuisine
KALE
lemon, e.g., juice, zest
lemongrass
lentils, e.g., red
LIME, e.g., juice, zest
MAPLE SYRUP
marjoram
milk, e.g., almond, cashew, coconut
mirin
miso, e.g., sweet, white
molasses
mushrooms, e.g., shiitake
mustard, e.g., Dijon
NUTMEG
NUTS, nut butters, and nut milks, e.g., almonds, peanuts, PECANS, WALNUTS
OIL, e.g., grapeseed, hazelnut, nut, OLIVE, peanut, sesame, walnut
ONIONS, e.g., red, white, spring, sweet, yellow
ORANGES, e.g., juice, zest
oregano
pancakes, e.g., sweet potato
paprika, e.g., sweet, smoked
PARSLEY
parsnips
pasta, e.g., gnocchi, lasagna, ravioli
pâtés
pears
pepper, e.g., black, white
pineapple
poppy seeds
potatoes, white
pumpkin seeds
purees
quesadillas
quinoa
radicchio
raisins
rice, e.g., brown
ROSEMARY
rum
sage
salads
salsa
salt, e.g., kosher, sea, smoked
savory
scallions
seeds, e.g., sesame, sunflower
SESAME, e.g., oil, paste, seeds
shallots
shepherd’s pie
soufflés
SOUPS, e.g., black bean, sweet potato, tomato
sour cream
SOY SAUCE
spinach
stews
stock, vegetable
SUGAR, BROWN
tamari
tempeh
tempura
thyme
tofu, e.g., smoked
tomatoes
tortillas
turmeric
turnips
vanilla
VINEGAR, e.g., BALSAMIC, red wine, rice wine, sherry
waffles, sweet potato
watercress
yogurt
Flavor Affinities
SWEET POTATOES + allspice + CINNAMON + ginger + maple syrup + NUTMEG (+ vanilla)
sweet potatoes + almond milk + cinnamon + maple syrup + nutmeg (+ vanilla)
sweet potatoes + almonds + almond milk + apples
sweet potatoes + apples + ginger
sweet potatoes + avocado + black beans + chiles
sweet potatoes + balsamic vinegar + kale + sage
sweet potatoes + bell peppers + garlic + hash + onions
sweet potatoes + black beans + cilantro + mango + salsa
sweet potatoes + black beans + salsa + tortillas
sweet potatoes + bourbon + brown sugar + pecans
sweet potatoes + brown butter + sage
sweet potatoes + brown sugar + cinnamon + vanilla
sweet potatoes + brown sugar + citrus (e.g., lemon/lime/orange juice)
sweet potatoes + brown sugar + ginger
sweet potatoes + chiles + ginger + lime + salt
sweet potatoes + chiles + honey
sweet potatoes + chocolate + cinnamon + nuts + vanilla
sweet potatoes + cilantro + lime + onions + vinegar
sweet potatoes + coconut milk + curry spices
sweet potatoes + garlic + herbs (e.g., rosemary, sage, thyme)
sweet potatoes + ginger + honey + sesame + soy sauce
SWEET POTATOES + GINGER + LIME + pears
sweet potatoes + ginger + miso
sweet potatoes + ginger + orange + yogurt
sweet potatoes + ginger + peanuts
sweet potatoes + ginger + sesame oil/seeds
sweet potatoes + greens + quinoa
sweet potatoes + honey + lime
sweet potatoes + lime + salt
SWEET POTATOES + MAPLE SYRUP + PECANS
sweet potatoes + molasses + sesame seeds
sweet potatoes + nuts + raisins
SWEET POTATOES + SESAME OIL/SEEDS + SOY SAUCE
SWEETNESS / SWEETENERS
Tips: The colder the food or the drink, the less the perception of sweetness. Sweetness tends to round out flavors, while acidity sharpens them. There are lots of ways to add it to a dish other than with refined white sugar: Below are some examples.
agave nectar, e.g., raw
apple juice and applesauce
barley malt syrup
brown rice syrup
cane juice, evaporated
cinnamon
coconut nectar
coconut sugar
dates and date sugar
fruit, fresh, e.g., bananas
fruit, dried, e.g., dates, raisins
fruit juice, esp. concentrated, e.g., fruit syrup
fruit preserves and jams
honey, e.g., raw
maple sugar
maple syrup
mirin
molasses
nutmeg
rice syrup
stevia
sucanat, which is an acronym for sugar cane natural
sugar, e.g., brown, coconut, date, maple, muscovado, organic, palm, raw, turbinado
vanilla
SYRUP, RICE (see BROWN RICE SYRUP)
SZECHUAN PEPPER (see PEPPER, SZECHUAN)
TAHINI
[tah-HEE-nee]
Flavor: sweet and/or salty, nutty, with a creamy texture
Volume: moderate
What it is: sesame butter, made from ground sesame seeds
Nutritional profile: 70% fat / 19% carbs / 11% protein
Calories: 90 per 1-tablespoon serving
Protein: 3 grams
Tip: Opt for tahini made from raw, stone-ground kernels.
Possible substitute: smokier Chinese sesame paste (in Asian dishes)
(North) African cuisines
Asian cuisines
asparagus
baba ghanoush
baked goods, e.g., breads
beans, e.g., black, cannellini, green, white
beets
bok choy
cabbage
carrots
cashews
cauliflower
CHICKPEAS
cilantro
couscous, Israeli
cumin
dips
eggplant
falafel
fruit
garlic
ginger
Greek cuisine
greens, e.g., salad
halvah
honey
*HUMMUS
icings, e.g., for cakes, cupcakes
LEMON, e.g., juice
lime
MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINES
milk, nondairy, e.g., almond, rice, soy
miso
mushrooms, e.g., shiitake
noodles, Asian, e.g., chilled, soba
nuts, e.g., macadamia
oil, e.g., sesame
onions, e.g., yellow
orange
pine nuts
potatoes
pumpkin
purees, e.g., carrots, potatoes, sweet potatoes
quinoa
SALAD DRESSINGS
salads, e.g., fattoush, fruit, legume
sandwiches
sauces
SESAME, e.g., oil, seeds
smoothies
snow peas
soups
soy sauce
spinach
SPREADS
squash, butternut
stews
stock, vegetable
sumac
sweet potatoes
tamari
tempeh
tofu
vanilla
vinegar, e.g., balsamic or rice wine
walnuts
yogurt
za’atar
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
tahini + carrots + ginger
TAHINI + CHICKPEAS + GARLIC + LEMON JUICE + OLIVE OIL
tahini + chickpeas + Israeli couscous
TAHINI + GARLIC + LEMON + sesame oil + tamari
tahini + garlic + yogurt
tahini + lemon juice + soba noodles
tahini + lemon juice + yogurt
tahini + noodles + sesame oil + soy sauce + rice wine vinegar
TAMARI
[tah-MAHR-ee]
Flavor: salty/sweet/umami, with meaty notes
Volume: moderate
Tips: Tamari tends to be sweeter (and more complex in flavor) than Chinese soy sauce, which tends to be saltier. Add to food during or after cooking. Opt for low-sodium versions.
Asian cuisines
baked dishes
casseroles
dips and dipping sauces
ginger
greens, Asian
grilled dishes
honey
marinades
mushrooms
onions, e.g., green
peanuts
pumpkin seeds
roasted dishes
salad dressings
SAUCES
sesame, e.g., seeds
soups
stews
stir-fries
sunflower seeds
sushi, e.g., nori rolls
tofu
tomatoes and tomato sauce
vinegar, rice
walnuts
Flavor Affinities
tamari + honey + rice vinegar + sesame seeds
“Tamari, which is basically fermented salt, is great for marinades. I don’t tend to drizzle it onto food directly, because it’s too easy to oversalt.”
—MARK SHADLE, G-ZEN (BRANFORD, CT)
TAMARIND and TAMARIND PASTE
Flavor: very sour/slightly sweet, with pungent notes of apricots, brown sugar, dates, dried plums, and/or molasses
Volume: moderate–very loud
What it is: tropical fruit pulp
apricots
Asian cuisines
bananas
beans
beverages, fruit
black-eyed peas
Caribbean cuisines
carrots
cashews
cauliflower
chard, Swiss
chickpeas
chiles, e.g., jalapeño, Thai
chili powder
CHUTNEYS
cilantro
citrus, e.g., grapefruit, lemon, lime, orange, tangerine
coconut and coconut milk
coriander
cumin
curry leaves, curry powder, curry spices, and curries
dates
desserts, frozen, e.g., granitas, sorbets
eggplant, Japanese
GARLIC
GINGER
grains
grapefruit
INDIAN CUISINE
Latin American cuisines
legumes
lemon
lemongrass
lentils, e.g., red
lime, e.g., juice, zest
maple syrup
marinades
Mediterranean cuisines
Mexican cuisine
Middle Eastern cuisines
mint
molasses
mushrooms
mustard and mustard seeds
noodles, Asian, e.g., rice
oil, e.g., grapeseed
oranges
pad thai
peanuts
potatoes, e.g., new
rice, e.g., basmati, jasmine
salad dressings
salads, e.g., noodle, Thai
sauces, e.g., barbecue, sweet-and-sour, tomato
scallions
shallots
sorbets
SOUPS, e.g., hot-and-sour, lentil, vegetable
soy sauce
star anise
stir-fries
sugar, e.g., brown, palm, white
sweet potatoes
tamari
tangerines
Thai cuisine
tofu
tomatoes and tomato paste
turmeric
vanilla
vegetables
vinegar, e.g., apple cider, brown rice
walnuts
yogurt
zucchini
Flavor Affinities
tamarind + cashews + tofu + tomatoes
tamarind + curry spices + peanuts + sweet potatoes
tamarind + garlic + ginger
TANGERINES (see ORANGES, MANDARIN)
TAPIOCA (see also FLOUR, TAPIOCA)
Flavor: neutral, with small, firm “pearls”
Volume: very quiet
What it is: pearls made from starch from the cassava plant; used as a thickening agent because, unlike cornstarch, it thickens without having to boil
Nutritional profile: 100% carbs
Tip: Soak for a few hours before using.
almonds
apples
bananas
chocolate
coconut and COCONUT MILK
DESSERTS, e.g., fruit cobblers, crisps, pies, tarts
eggs
fruits
ginger
Malaysian cuisine
mango
maple syrup
melon, e.g., honeydew
milk
nuts
puddings
sesame seeds, e.g., toasted
sugar, e.g., brown
VANILLA
Vietnamese cuisine
yuzu
Flavor Affinities
tapioca + bananas + coconut milk + ginger
tapioca + bananas + coconut milk + vanilla
“Our tapioca puddings are so popular that it’s hard to take them off our menu. Coconut milk is a source of both flavor and richness [as opposed to rice milk, which is thin and has no flavor, or soy milk, which can taste chalky]. We thicken the pudding with agar-agar, which doesn’t mask flavors, unlike cornstarch. We like to accent it with fruit in both raw and cooked form, such as fresh cherries with a cherry sauce or gel.”
—AARON WOO, NATURAL SELECTION (PORTLAND, OR)