TOMATOES, GREEN

Techniques: fry, grill

bell peppers

cheese, e.g., burrata, feta, Parmesan

chives

corn

cornmeal

dill

eggs, e.g., frittatas

mustard

oil, e.g., olive, vegetable

onions, e.g., red

parsley

pepper, black

salsas

salt, e.g., sea

savory

scallions

soups

tomatoes, fried green

Flavor Affinities

green tomatoes + burrata cheese + mustard + olive oil

 

images  TOMATOES, SUN-DRIED (or OVEN-DRIED TOMATOES)

Flavor: salty/slightly sweet, with intense tomato notes, and a chewy texture

Volume: loud–very loud

Tip: To soften, soak in boiling water for 60 seconds before draining and cooling.

Brand: Mediterranean Organic

almonds

artichokes and artichoke hearts

arugula

asparagus

BASIL

bay leaf

beans, e.g., white

bell peppers

bread, e.g., whole-wheat

capers

cashews

casseroles

CHEESE, e.g., chèvre, feta, goat, mozzarella, Parmesan, ricotta

chickpeas

chiles, e.g., jalapeño, red

chili pepper flakes

dips

EGGS, e.g., frittatas, omelets

enchiladas

GARLIC

harissa

hazelnuts

hummus

Italian cuisine

kale

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lime, e.g., juice, zest

Mediterranean cuisines

OLIVE OIL

olives, e.g., black, kalamata

onions, e.g., red

orange, e.g., zest

oregano

parsley

PASTAS, e.g., cannelloni, linguini

pepper, black

pesto

pine nuts

PIZZA

polenta

potatoes

risottos

rosemary

salads, e.g., bean, grain, green, potato

salt, sea

sandwiches, e.g., cheese, panini

SAUCES, e.g., pasta, tomato

scallions

shallots

soups

spinach

spreads

stews

stuffings

tapenades

thyme

tofu

tomato paste

tomatoes, fresh

tortillas

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, rice wine

walnuts

wine, e.g., dry white

Flavor Affinities

sun-dried tomatoes + artichokes + feta cheese

SUN-DRIED TOMATOES + BASIL + GARLIC + OLIVE OIL

sun-dried tomatoes + basil + herbs (e.g., rosemary, thyme) + olive oil

sun-dried tomatoes + capers + garlic + goat cheese + oregano

sun-dried tomatoes + goat cheese + pesto + pine nuts

sun-dried tomatoes + olive oil + oregano + red onions

Dishes

Fried Green Tomatoes with Green Goddess Dressing and Feta

—FnB (Scottsdale, AZ)

 

TRAIL MIX and TRAIL BARS

Tips: Use only unsalted raw nuts and unsweetened organic fruit. If nuts are roasted, opt for dry roasted rather than oil roasted.

“We make [trail] bars that combine unsulfured dried fruits, nuts, and spices to sweeten and spice a tasty blend of organic whole grains. Our top flavors are based on apricot, cashew, and turmeric; almond, cacao, and coconut; date, ginger, and sesame seeds; and cinnamon, prune, and walnut.”

—DIANE FORLEY, FLOURISH BAKING COMPANY (SCARSDALE, NY)

 

images  TRITICALE

[trit-ih-KAY-lee]

Flavor: slightly sweet, with earthy notes of nuts, and a chewy texture

Volume: moderate–loud

What it is: whole grain (a hybrid of rye and wheat)

Gluten: yes

Nutritional profile: 82% carbs / 13% protein / 5% fats

Calories: 325 per ½-cup serving

Protein: 12 grams

Techniques: pressure-cook, simmer (30-40 minutes), toast

Timing: Cook presoaked triticale about 15–20 minutes, covered.

Botanical relatives: barley, corn, rye, spelt, wheat

Possible substitutes: rye berries, wheat berries

baked goods, e.g., biscuits, breads

basil

casseroles

cereals, e.g., muesli

chard

cheese, e.g., Parmesan

chives

cilantro

cinnamon

dates

dill

garlic

ginger

greens

mushrooms, e.g., cremini, shiitake

mustard, e.g., Dijon

oil, e.g., nut, olive, sesame, walnut

onions

oregano

pancakes

parsley

peanuts

pepper, black

pilafs

porridges

raisins

sage

salads, grain

scallions

squash, winter, e.g., butternut

stock, vegetable

thyme

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, sherry

Flavor Affinities

triticale + cilantro + garlic + ginger + peanuts + scallions + sesame oil

triticale + garlic + mushrooms + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + parsley + vinegar

 

TRUFFLES, AUSTRALIAN

Season: winter (in Australia, so they’re shipped to North America June–September)

Flavor: umami

Volume: moderate–loud

What they are: black truffles that have been cultivated in Australia since 1999

Tip: Use like other black truffles (see below).

Australian black truffles are already the equal of other [e.g., French] black truffles in terms of aroma and flavor and continue to develop a stronger, longer-lasting flavor every year. Plus, it’s fun to use truffles in the summer [which is Australia’s winter]—their earthiness is an amazing complement to the sweetness of corn agnolotti.”

—JOSIAH CITRIN, MÉLISSE (SANTA MONICA)

 

 

TRUFFLES, PACIFIC NORTHWEST (esp. OREGON)

Flavor: aromatic

Volume: quieter–louder

Botanical relatives: European truffles

butter

celery root

cheese, e.g., goat, smoked gouda

eggs

leeks, esp. with black truffles

nuts, esp. hazelnuts

pastas, esp. with white truffles

potatoes, esp. with white truffles

risottos

salads, esp. with white truffles

vegetables, root, esp. with white truffles

Oregon white truffles are at least as good as their Italian cousins.”

—JAMES BEARD (1983)

 

TRUFFLES, WHITE

Season: autumn

Flavor: aromatic, with earthy notes

Volume: moderate–very loud

Tips: Consider storing truffles in a closed jar of rice to capture their aroma and flavor. Do not cook—shave over finished dishes at the last possible moment.

Botanical relatives: mushrooms

butter

cheese, e.g., Fontina, Parmesan

eggs, esp. scrambled

fonduta

ITALIAN CUISINE

mushrooms, e.g., porcini

oil, olive

parsley

PASTAS, e.g., fettuccine

polenta

potatoes

rice, e.g., Arborio

RISOTTOS

Flavor Affinities

white truffles + eggs + fonduta + Fontina cheese + milk

white truffles + Parmesan cheese + potatoes

“I never saw anyone use white truffles in a traditional Japanese restaurant in Kyoto. But I love seeing how popular they are here, and I am already planning to feature them on our seasonal menu in November. Last November, I served deep-fried sushi rolls flavored with miyoga ginger, with shaved truffles on top.”

—RYOTA UESHIMA, KAJITSU (NEW YORK CITY)

 

 

images  TURMERIC (see also CURRY POWDER, which contains turmeric)

[TER-mer-ic]

Flavor: bitter/sweet, with earthy/pungent notes of ginger, orange, and/or pepper

Volume: moderate–loud

Tip: Used to add its characteristic yellow/orange color to curries, mustard, tofu scrambles, and other foods as much as its flavor.

Botanical relative: ginger

carrots

CAULIFLOWER

chickpeas

chiles

cilantro

cinnamon

cloves

coconut and coconut milk

coriander

cumin

CURRIES, e.g., Indian, Thai (esp. red, yellow)

*CURRY LEAF and CURRY POWDER

dals

eggs, e.g., deviled eggs, egg salads, omelets

fruit, dried, e.g., cranberries, currants, raisins

garlic

ginger

grains, e.g., quinoa

greens, stewed

INDIAN CUISINE

kohlrabi

lemon, e.g., juice

lemongrass

lentils

lime

Middle Eastern cuisines

Moroccan cuisine

mustard and mustard seeds

noodles, e.g., Asian, rice

oil, olive

okra

onions

peanuts

peas

pepper, black

pickles

pistachios

potatoes

raisins

RICE, e.g., basmati, brown

salad dressings

salads, e.g., egg

sauces

scallions

shallots

SOUPS, e.g., carrot, sweet potato

Southeast Asian cuisines

spinach

STEWS

stir-fries

sugar, brown

sweet potatoes

tagines

tamarind

Thai cuisine

tofu

tofu scrambles (for yellow color)

vegetables, esp. root

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

turmeric + basmati rice + dried fruit + garlic + lemon + pistachios + scallions

turmeric + black pepper + lemon juice + olive oil

turmeric + carrots + chickpeas + cinnamon + couscous + saffron + zucchini

turmeric + cilantro + cumin +

garlic + onion + paprika + parsley + pepper

turmeric + coriander + cumin

 

images  TURNIPS (see also GREENS, TURNIP)

Season: autumn–winter

Flavor: sweet (esp. in autumn/winter), with pungent notes of cabbage, mustard, nuts, and/or pepper

Volume: moderate (e.g., younger and/or cooked)–loud (e.g., older and/or raw)

What they are: root vegetable

Nutritional profile: 88% carbs / 9% protein / 3% fats

Calories: 35 per 1-cup serving (cooked, cubed)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake (at 400°F for about 40 minutes for sliced turnips, and 60–90 minutes for whole), boil (about 10–15 minutes), braise, broil, deep-fry, glaze, grate, mash (esp. with potatoes), pickle, pressure-cook (2–8 minutes), puree, raw, roast, sauté, simmer, steam (5–20 minutes, depending on whether sliced or whole), stew, stir-fry, stuff, tempura-fry

Tips: Peel before using. Cook only until tender; do not overcook.

Botanical relatives: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, horseradish, kale, kohlrabi, land cress, mustard, radishes, rutabagas, watercress

Possible substitute: Can substitute for rutabagas in many dishes; see also tips for rutabagas.

Flavor Affinities

turnips + almonds + balsamic vinegar

turnips + basil + black pepper + lemon

turnips + caraway seeds + carrots

turnips + carrots + greens

turnips + carrots + lentils

turnips + carrots + potatoes

turnips + garlic + leeks + rutabagas + thyme

turnips + ginger + orange + rosemary

turnips + greens + lemon + pine nuts

turnips + gratins + Gruyère cheese + thyme

turnips + leeks + miso

turnips + maple syrup + parsley

turnips + mirin + miso + scallions + sesame seeds

turnips + pasta + turnip greens

turnips + potatoes + rutabagas

turnips + potatoes + tarragon + tomatoes

 

 

UMEBOSHI, UMEBOSHI PASTE (aka PICKLED PLUM PUREE), and UMEBOSHI PLUMS (see also VINEGAR, UMEBOSHI PLUM)

[oo-meh-BOH-shee]

Flavor: sour/very salty/sweet/umami, with complex fruity notes

Volume: moderate–very loud

What it is: Japanese “plum” fermented with salt and shiso

Botanical relative: apricots (not plums)

Brands: Eden Foods, Emperor’s Kitchen (plum paste)

agave nectar

avocado

basil

beans, e.g., kidney

BROCCOLI

cabbage, e.g., napa

cauliflower

celery

chives

cilantro

CORN, e.g., corn on the cob

cucumbers

curries, e.g., Thai

daikon

dips

dressings

frisée

garlic

ginger

grains

greens, e.g., collard

Japanese cuisine

jícama

lemon, e.g., juice

lentils

lettuces, e.g., romaine

lime, e.g., juice

macrobiotic cuisine

marinades

mayonnaise

mirin

mushrooms

mustard, Dijon

noodles, Asian, e.g., soba

nori and NORI ROLLS

oil, e.g., olive, peanut, sesame

parsley

pecans

RICE, e.g., short-grain brown, sushi, white

RICE BALLS

SALAD DRESSINGS, e.g., Caesar, green

SALADS, e.g., Caesar, green

SAUCES

scallions

sesame, e.g., paste, seeds, sauce

SHISO

snow peas

soups

sour cream

spreads

stir-fries

sugar

tamari

tempeh

TOFU, e.g., extra-firm

vegetables, e.g., sautéed

vinegar, rice

walnuts

Flavor Affinities

umeboshi + agave nectar + garlic + mustard + olive oil + salad dressing

umeboshi + broccoli + rice + scallions + tofu

umeboshi + lentils + walnuts

umeboshi + nori + rice + rice vinegar + scallions + walnuts

umeboshi + nori + rice + rice vinegar + shiso

umeboshi + olive oil + parsley + rice + sesame seeds

umeboshi + olive oil + rice vinegar + sugar + tamari

 

“The combination of vanilla with Ceylon cinnamon is potent and delicious.”

—AMI BEACH, G-ZEN (BRANFORD, CT)

 

VEGETABLES, ROOT (see ROOT VEGETABLES)

 

VEGGIE BURGERS

There are almost as many versions of veggie burgers as there are vegetarian chefs! Play with your favorite combination of whole grains, legumes, mushrooms, nuts, seeds, and/or vegetables to come up with your own.

“I developed a veggie burger from brown rice, chickpeas, lentils, and mushrooms for a restaurant project outside Mélisse—but I’ve used the same combination as a ‘sausage’ in a bean and portobello mushroom cassoulet. There’s no casing—the broken rice serves as the binder, and I wrap it in plastic wrap and steam it before finishing it in a pan to give it a crust.”

—JOSIAH CITRIN, MÉLISSE (SANTA MONICA)

“We serve three different veggie burgers. My favorite is the Follow Your Heart burger, which is a meatlike soy-based patty. My second favorite is the Nut Burger Supreme, which is based on nuts and vegetables and topped with lettuce, rennetless cheddar cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms, onions, sauerkraut, Vegenaise, and carrot shreds. It’s not a cohesive patty, but more like a pâté, that’s been heated on the grill so that it squeezes out as you take a bite. We also offer a Multi-Grain Mushroom burger, which is somewhat similar in texture to the nutburger and based on brown rice, wheat berries, barley, lentils, mushrooms, and herbs.”

—BOB GOLDBERG, FOLLOW YOUR HEART (LOS ANGELES)

Dishes

118 Bristol Sliders: Marinated Portobello Mushrooms, Tomato, Spinach, Garlic Crème Sauce, and Basil Aioli on a Buckwheat Bun

—118 Degrees (California)

Loaded Southwest Vegetarian Burger: Spicy Veggie Burger Patty Home-made with Fresh Vegetables, Certified Gluten-Free Oats and Pumpkin Seeds, served on a Whole-Wheat Roll with Avocado and Pico de Gallo

—Canyon Ranch (Lenox, MA)

Homemade Southwestern Black Bean and Roasted Sweet Potato Burger on Toasted Bun with Guacamole and Salsa

—Garden Café (Woodstock, NY)

Green Lentil and Butternut Squash Burger: Pumpkin Seed-Crusted Vegetable Burger Made with Green Lentils, Butternut Squash, Quinoa, Green Cabbage, Caramelized Onion, Carrot, and Spices

—Great Sage (Clarksville, MD)

Mana Slider: Brown Rice and Mushroom Burger, with Spicy Mayo

—Mana Food Bar (Chicago)

Millet and Quinoa Burger with Orange Slices, Cilantro, Fried Shallots, Mint Pesto, and Beet-Root Chips

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

Oven Broiled Lentil Burger with Tomatoes, Charred Beet Leaves, Fried Shallots, Dill Aioli, and Yam Chips

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

Fresh Herb Grilled Seitan Steak Burger with Charred Beet Leaves, Shaved Carrots, Fried Shallots, and Winter Squash Chips

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

Buffalo Portobello Burger: Deep Fried Panko-Coated Portobello, Dipped in Buffalo Hot Sauce, with Vegan Ranch, Grilled Onions, Cucumber, Mixed Greens, and French Fries

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

House-Made Beet Burger, Fresh-baked Rosemary Focaccia Bun, Carrot Aioli, Arugula, Red Onions and Tomato Confit, with or without Cashew Cheese

—Portobello (Portland, OR)

Root Burger: House-made Black Bean and Quinoa Burger with Boston Lettuce, Tomato, Crispy Onions, and Garlic Aioli, served with side of Dressed Greens or Herbed Fries

—Root (Allston, MA)

image

 

 

VIETNAMESE CUISINE

bananas

basil, Thai

chiles

cilantro

coconut milk

cucumbers

curry powder and curry spices

dill

garlic

ginger

lemon

lemongrass

lettuce

lime

milk, e.g., sweetened condensed (e.g., in coffee)

mint

noodles, e.g., rice

peanuts

raw dishes

rice, e.g., jasmine

rolls, e.g., spring, summer

salads, e.g., rice noodle

scallions

shallots

spring rolls

sprouts, bean

star anise

sugar

summer rolls

tapioca, pearl

vinegar, rice

Flavor Affinities

cabbage + cashews + rice noodles + salad greens + tofu

 

VINEGAR—IN GENERAL (see also specific vinegars)

Flavor: ranges from slightly to very sour

Volume: ranges from quieter–louder

Nutritional profile: virtually 100% carbs

Calories: 25 (cider, wine)–100 (balsamic) per ½ cup

Tip: Can act as a flavor enhancer to many dishes

Possible substitutes: lemon juice, lime juice, tamarind paste, verjus, wine

“I love fancy vinegars! I will use a few drops of champagne or sherry vinegar to finish a dish.”

—MOLLIE KATZEN, BESTSELLING AUTHOR OF COOKBOOKS SUCH AS THE HEART OF THE PLATE

 

images  VINEGAR, APPLE CIDER (aka VINEGAR, CIDER)

Flavor: sour/slightly sweet, with fruity notes of apple and/or honey

Volume: quiet–moderate-loud

What it is: made from fermented apple juice

Tip: Opt for unfiltered, organic cider vinegar.

apples and apple juice

baked goods

black-eyed peas

chutneys

cucumbers

fruits

grains, whole

herbs, e.g., dill

marinades

oils, e.g., olive, peanut, sunflower

peaches

pears

peas

plums

SALAD DRESSINGS

SALADS, e.g., fruit, green, pasta, vegetable

salt, sea

slaws

soups, e.g., borscht

vegetables, esp. steamed

vegetables, pickled

 

“I use white balsamic vinegar whenever I want to bring a little sweetness to a dish, such as bitter greens or braised kale.”

—JOSIAH CITRIN, MÉLISSE (SANTA MONICA)

 

VINEGAR, BANYULS

Flavor: sour/sweet, with complex notes of berries, ginger, honey, nuts (almonds, walnuts), plums, and/or vanilla, and a rich texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: made from Grenache grapes used in making Banyuls dessert wine

Possible substitutes: red wine vinegar (e.g., in deglazing), sherry vinegar

barley

beans

cheese, e.g., blue, goat

chickpeas

French cuisine, esp. Provençal

greens, salad, e.g., frisée

lentils, e.g., black, French, green

marinades

oil, e.g., hazelnut, olive, walnut

ragoûts

salad dressings, e.g., vinaigrettes

salads, e.g., frisée, green

salt, sea

sauces

walnuts

Dishes

Sorbello Farms Organic Field Greens with Banyuls Vinaigrette

—Picholine (New York City)

 

VINEGAR, BEER

Flavor: sour, with notes of malt

Volume: moderate–loud

cheese, esp. soft, e.g., burrata

oil, e.g., olive

salads

vegetables

watercress

 

“We like using black vinegar in our Chinese dishes, because the flavor is really interesting. We created a grilled zucchini hors d’oeuvre that was marinated in sesame oil and black vinegar; then we upped the flavor with a mushroom XO sauce.”

—RICH LANDAU AND KATE JACOBY, VEDGE (PHILADELPHIA)

 

VINEGAR, CHAMPAGNE

Flavor: sour, with crisp notes of grapes, and light-bodied

Volume: quiet–moderate (and one of the quietest vinegars available)

Tip: As one of the most delicate vinegars, it is mild enough to be used without oil as a salad dressing.

Possible substitutes: cider vinegar, rice vinegar, white wine vinegar (although none are as quiet)

berries, e.g., raspberries, strawberries

citrus, e.g., grapefruit, lemon, lime, orange, tangerine; juice, zest

fruit, esp. berries, citrus, and stone fruit

greens, salad, esp. lighter

herbs, e.g., lemon thyme

honey

lettuces, e.g., butter

oil, e.g., nut, olive, truffle

orange, e.g., juice, zest

salad dressings

salads, e.g., fruit,“quieter”

sauces

vegetables, “quieter”

 

VINEGAR, CIDER (see VINEGAR, APPLE CIDER)

 

VINEGAR, COCONUT

Flavor: sour, with notes of yeast

Volume: moderate–loud

curries

Filipino cuisine

rice

Southeast Asian cuisines

stir-fries

 

VINEGAR, QUINCE

Flavor: sour/sweet, with notes of apples, pears, and/or quince

Possible substitute: apple cider vinegar

apples

artichokes, Jerusalem

baked goods, e.g., pastries

berries, e.g., strawberries

cabbage, e.g., braised

celery root

cheese, e.g., hard

chestnuts

citrus, e.g., orange

fruit, fresh

melon

oil, e.g., olive, pine nut, pistachio

onions

pears

pineapple

pine nuts

pistachios

pumpkins

quince

salads, e.g., green

sauces

 

images  VINEGAR, RED WINE (see also VINEGAR, WINE–IN GENERAL)

Flavor: sour–very sour

Volume: moderate (e.g., young)–loud (e.g., aged)

Tip: Red wine vinegar can stand up to spices and stronger herbs.

Possible substitutes: balsamic vinegar, sherry vinegar, white wine vinegar

chard, Swiss

cold dishes

French cuisine

garlic

greens, e.g., dandelion, salad, stronger

kale

lemon, e.g., juice

marinades

mushrooms

mustard, Dijon

oils, e.g., nut, olive (esp. extra-virgin)

pepper, black

salad dressings, e.g., vinaigrettes

salads

sauces

shallots

soups

spinach

stews

vegetables, root

Flavor Affinities

red wine vinegar + black pepper + garlic + mustard + olive oil

 

 

VINEGAR, SHERRY

Flavor: sour/sweet, with complex notes of caramel, flowers, grapes, and/or nuts, with a smooth texture

Volume: moderate–loud

Possible substitutes: balsamic vinegar, red wine vinegar, rice vinegar

beans

beets

butter

cheese, e.g., blue, mozzarella

citrus, e.g., grapefruit, lemon, lime, orange, tangerine; juice, zest

eggs, e.g., frittatas, hard-boiled, tortillas

fennel

garlic

grains

greens, bitter

herbs

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

marinades

mustard, e.g., Dijon

OILS, e.g., nut, olive, walnut

onions

orange, e.g., juice, zest

potatoes

radicchio

salad dressings, e.g., sherry vinaigrette

SALADS, e.g., fruit, vegetable

salt

sauces, e.g., butter

soups, e.g., gazpacho

SPANISH CUISINE

tomatoes

vinegar, other, e.g., balsamic, red wine, white wine

walnuts

“A good sherry vinegar makes your mouth water in a way that not even a white wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar can. I love using it with extra-virgin olive oil, and for marinades.”

—RICH LANDAU, VEDGE (PHILADELPHIA)

 

VINEGAR, UMEBOSHI PLUM (or UME PLUM)

Flavor: sour/salty, with fruity notes of lemon

Volume: moderate

Tip: While not technically a vinegar, umeboshi brine may be substituted for vinegar and salt as an instant flavor enhancer.

beans

beets

DIPS

grains

greens

marinades

miso

pickles

SALAD DRESSINGS

sauces, fresh and cooked

shiso leaf

soups, e.g., miso

stews

vegetables, e.g., steamed

 

 

VINEGAR, WINE—IN GENERAL

Flavor: sour, with notes of fruit (e.g., grapes)

Volume: quiet–moderate

Tip: Opt for high-quality, unpasteurized red or white wine vinegar.

Possible substitute: cider vinegar

berries

fruit

marinades

melon

salad dressings

salads

salsas

sauces

stews

 

VITAMIX

What it is: a high-performance blender that is the price of a used car, with a motor that’s just as powerful as one

Tips: Consider making this investment—it’s truly more than a blender! Just a sampling of what you can make: batters, dips, doughs, dressings, flours (i.e., by grinding grains), juices, milks, nut butters, purees (e.g., vegetables), salad dressings, sauces and dipping sauces, smoothies, soups, sorbets, and spreads.

“Four kitchen tools I would never want to be without are my Vitamix, spiralizer, dehydrator, and deep fryer.”

—AMANDA COHEN, DIRT CANDY (NEW YORK CITY)

 

“The first time I ever cooked wakame, I just dumped the whole bag in a pot, covered it with water, turned it on to boil, and left the kitchen. I didn’t know that seaweed expands seven times its size—so I was shocked to return to find it heaving over the pot and my stove like a monster!”

—PAM BROWN, GARDEN CAFÉ (WOODSTOCK, NY)

Dishes

Soba-Wakame Rolls in Togarashi Aioli and Maple Teriyaki

—Cal-a-Vie (Vista, CA)

 

images  WALNUTS

Season: autumn

Flavor: slightly sweet to bitter, with earthy notes of butter, cream, and/or nuts (and astringent notes from the skins), and a rich, crunchy texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What’s healthful about them: omega-3 fatty acids

Nutritional profile: 83% fats / 9% carbs / 8% protein

Calories: 185 per 1-ounce serving

Protein: 4 grams

Tip: Opt for black, dried walnuts.

Botanical relatives: other tree nuts

APPLES

apricots, e.g., dried

artichokes and artichoke hearts

arugula

BAKED GOODS, e.g., breads, cakes, cookies, muffins, pastries, tarts

baklava

bananas

basil

beans, e.g., fava, green, white

BEETS

bell peppers, red, esp. roasted

berries, e.g., blueberries

butter

cabbage

caramel

carrots

celery and celery root

cereals, hot

chard

CHEESE, e.g., BLUE, Camembert, cheddar, cream, feta, GOAT, Gorgonzola, Monterey Jack, manchego, Parmesan, pecorino, ricotta, Roquefort, sheep’s milk, Stilton

cherries, e.g., dried, sour

CHOCOLATE, e.g., dark, milk, white

cinnamon

coconut

coffee

couscous

cranberries

cream

cucumbers

cumin

currants

dates

desserts, e.g., fruit crisps

eggplant

endive, Belgian

fennel

FIGS

frisée

fruits, e.g., dried, fresh

garlic

grains, whole, e.g., amaranth, barley, bulgur, oats, quinoa, spelt berries, wheat berries

granola

grapefruit

grapes

Greek cuisine

GREENS, e.g., beet, bitter, salad

HONEY

ice cream

kumquats

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lettuce, e.g., romaine

maple syrup

mascarpone

miso, sweet white

molasses

muesli

muffins

mushrooms, e.g., porcini

nutmeg

nuts, other, e.g., cashews, hazelnuts

oats and oatmeal

oil, e.g., olive, walnut

olives, e.g., green

onions

ORANGE, e.g., juice, zest

pancakes

parsley

parsnips

pastas, e.g., bowtie, cannelloni, orzo, pappardelle

pastries

pâtés

peaches

PEARS

pestos

phyllo dough

pizzas

plums, e.g., dried, fresh

pomegranates and pomegranate molasses

pumpkin

quinces

quinoa

RAISINS

rice, e.g., brown, wild

SALADS, e.g., Waldorf

salt, e.g., sea

sage

sauces, e.g., tomato, walnut

seeds, e.g., hemp, pumpkin

snacks

soups

spelt berries

spinach

squash, e.g., summer, winter

stuffings

sugar

sweet potatoes

tabbouleh

tapenade

thyme

tomatoes and sun-dried tomatoes

trail mix

vanilla

vinegar, sherry

wine, sweet, e.g., Madeira, port, sherry

YOGURT

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

walnuts + apples + beets + salads

walnuts + apples + cinnamon

walnuts + apples + wheat berries

walnuts + artichoke hearts + couscous

walnuts + arugula + beets + feta cheese

walnuts + arugula + pesto

walnuts + basil + eggplant

walnuts + beets + spinach

walnuts + (roasted) bell peppers + garlic + parsley + pasta

walnuts + blue cheese + endive

walnuts + blue cheese + onions

walnuts + bread crumbs + garlic + olive oil + Parmesan cheese

walnuts + bread crumbs + pomegranate molasses + roasted (bell) peppers

walnuts + butternut squash + sage

walnuts + carrots + raisins

WALNUTS + CHEESE (e.g., blue, goat, Parmesan) + FRUIT (e.g., apples, dates, figs, pears)

walnuts + cranberries + ginger + orange + vanilla

walnuts + dill + dulse + lemon

walnuts + endive + Roquefort cheese

walnuts + figs + honey + yogurt

walnuts + figs + frisée + Gorgonzola cheese + walnut oil

walnuts + garlic + pasta + raisins

walnuts + garlic + tamari

walnuts + goat cheese + honey

walnuts + mascarpone + pasta + sage

walnuts + molasses + vanilla

walnuts + mushrooms + thyme

image

 

“Shojin cuisine [developed in Zen Buddhist monastaries] prohibits garlic, which has a strong, long-lasting flavor that can overpower other flavors, even affecting the flavor of the next course—or the next day! Wasabi is also strong, but its flavor evaporates quickly.”

—RYOTA UESHIMA, KAJITSU (NEW YORK CITY)

 

images  WATER CHESTNUTS

Season: year-round

Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of apples and/or Jerusalem artichokes, and a crunchy, juicy texture

Volume: quiet

Nutritional profile: 95% carbs / 4% protein / 1% fat

Calories: 60 per ½-cup serving (sliced, raw)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake, boil, braise, deep-fry, fry, raw, sauté, steam, stir-fry

Tip: If using canned water chestnuts for convenience, blanch in boiling water before using.

Asian cuisines

bamboo shoots

beans, fermented black

beans, green

bell peppers, e.g., red

bok choy

broccoli

Brussels sprouts

cabbage, e.g., red

carrots

celery

chiles, dried

Chinese cuisine

cilantro

corn

dumplings

edamame

GARLIC

GINGER

hoisin sauce

leeks

lettuce, e.g., Bibb

lettuce wraps

mint

MUSHROOMS, e.g., Chinese, dried, oyster, shiitake

noodles, Asian

nuts, e.g., macadamia

oil, e.g., olive, peanut, sesame, vegetable

onions, red

orange, e.g., juice

parsley

peanuts and peanut sauce

peas

pineapple

pine nuts

rice, brown

salads, e.g., fruit, noodle, rice, vegetable

scallions

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

snow peas

soups, e.g., winter melon

SOY SAUCE

spring rolls

sriracha

stews

STIR-FRIES

stock, vegetable

sugar

sugar snap peas

TOFU, e.g., extra-firm

vegetables

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, rice

watercress

wine, rice

Flavor Affinities

water chestnuts + Asian noodles + peanut sauce

water chestnuts + shiitake mushrooms + sugar snap peas

 

images  WATERCRESS (see also LAND CRESS)

Season: late spring–summer

Flavor: bitter, ranging from mild to hot, with pungent notes of mustard and/or pepper, and a delicate yet crunchy texture

Volume: moderate–loud

What it is: green leafy vegetable

Nutritional profile: 51% protein / 41% carbs / 8% fats

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: Although watercress can be quickly steamed or stir-fried (which brings out its sweetness), it is best served raw.

Botanical relatives: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, horseradish, kale, kohlrabi, land cress, mustard, radishes, rutabagas, turnips, watercress

almonds

apples

asparagus

avocado

beans, e.g., fermented black, white

BEETS

bell peppers, esp. red

butter

buttermilk

carrots

CHEESE, e.g., blue, cheddar, cottage, cream, feta, goat, Gruyère, Monterey Jack, pecorino, ricotta, ricotta salata, sheep’s milk, white

chicory

chiles, e.g., jalapeño

Chinese cuisine

chives

cilantro

citrus

cream

cucumbers

currants

dill

EGGS, e.g., fried, frittatas, hard-boiled, omelets, poached, scrambled

endive

fennel

garlic

ginger

grains, whole

grapefruit

greens, milder salad

honey

horseradish

jícama

leeks

LEMON, e.g., juice

lettuce, e.g., butter, romaine

lime

mascarpone

mayonnaise

mint

MUSHROOMS, e.g., button, enoki, portobello

MUSTARD, e.g., Dijon, grainy

OILS, e.g., canola, grapeseed, olive, peanut, sesame, vegetable, walnut

olives

onions, e.g., red

ORANGE, e.g., blood, sections

parsley

parsnips

pastas

peaches

pears

peas

pepper, e.g., black, white

pineapple

pistachios

pomegranates

POTATOES

radicchio

radishes

raspberries

rice

SALADS, e.g., bean, egg, green, potato, watercress

salt, e.g., kosher, sea

SANDWICHES, e.g., egg salad, grilled cheese, tea

sauces

sesame, e.g., seeds

shallots

SOUPS, e.g., barley, creamy, miso, mushroom, potato

sour cream

soy sauce

stews

stir-fries

stock, vegetable

strawberries

tamari

tangerines

thyme

tofu

TOMATOES

tomatoes, sun-dried

Vietnamese cuisine

vinaigrette

VINEGAR, e.g., balsamic, champagne, red wine, rice wine, sherry, white balsamic, white wine

walnuts

wine, e.g., dry white, rice

yogurt

yuca

Flavor Affinities

watercress + almonds + balsamic vinegar + strawberries

watercress + apples + beets

watercress + asparagus + poached egg

watercress + avocado + grapefruit

watercress + beets + cheese (e.g., goat, pecorino) + walnuts

watercress + beets + egg salad

watercress + beets + mustard

watercress + blood orange + ricotta

watercress + celery + radishes + walnut oil

WATERCRESS + CHEESE (e.g., blue, pecorino) + FRUIT (e.g., apples) + NUTS (e.g., almonds, walnuts)

watercress + chives + cream cheese + parsley + tea sandwiches

watercress + cucumbers + mint + red onions

watercress + Dijon mustard + olive oil + red wine vinegar

watercress + fennel + orange

watercress + garlic + miso + sesame oil

watercress + garlic + onions + potatoes + thyme

watercress + goat cheese + tomatoes

watercress + leeks + potatoes

watercress + onions + potatoes + vegetable stock

Dishes

Well-Cultured Salad: Mélange of Seasonal Greens and Watercress tossed with Homemade Kimchee, Nori Strips, Toasted Sesame Seeds, and Extra Virgin Olive Oil, with garnish of Radish Slices

—Angelica Kitchen (New York City)

Watercress Salad with Apple, Celery Root, Cheddar, Grapefruit, and Honey

—Artisans Restaurant at Lake Placid Lodge (Lake Placid, NY)

 

Flavor Affinities

watermelon + agave nectar + lemon juice

watermelon + almonds + basil + lime + oranges

watermelon + arugula + black pepper + pistachios

watermelon + arugula + cucumber + feta cheese + red onions

watermelon + arugula + walnuts

watermelon + balsamic vinegar + basil + tomatoes

watermelon + basil + feta cheese + vinegar (e.g., white balsamic)

watermelon + cantaloupe + mint

watermelon + cucumbers + red onions

watermelon + fennel + feta cheese

watermelon + feta cheese + lime + mint

watermelon + feta cheese + olive oil + red onion + vinegar (e.g., white wine)

watermelon + ginger + mint

watermelon + goat cheese + tomatoes

watermelon + jalapeño + lime

watermelon + jalapeño + olive oil + sherry vinegar + tomatoes

watermelon + lemon/lime + mint + strawberries

watermelon + lime + poppy seeds

watermelon + raspberry vinegar + red onions

 

images  WHEAT BERRIES (see also BULGUR)

Flavor: slightly sweet, nutty, with a very chewy texture

Volume: quiet

What it is: whole grain

Gluten-free: no

Nutritional profile: 83% carbs / 14% protein / 3% fats

Calories: 165 per ¼ cup uncooked (which yields ½ cup cooked)

Protein: 6 grams

Timing: Cook until tender, about 1 hour (if presoaked) to 2 hours.

Ratio: 1:3 (1 cup wheat berries to 3 cups cooking liquid)

Tips: Seek out hard red wheat berries for highest protein content (15%). Toast before soaking or cooking to achieve an even nuttier flavor. Sprout wheat berries and add to salads.

Botanical relatives: barley, corn, kamut, rye, spelt, triticale

Possible substitutes: rye berries, spelt, triticale

Flavor Affinities

wheat berries + apples + raisins + walnuts

wheat berries + asparagus + cheese + mushrooms + risottos

wheat berries + black beans + cilantro + garlic + lime

wheat berries + carrots + cumin

wheat berries + carrots + scallions + sesame oil + sprouts + tamari

wheat berries + celery + mushrooms + sage + thyme

wheat berries + feta cheese + lemon + pine nuts + spinach

wheat berries + peaches + yogurt

image

 

WHOLE FOODS

Refers to foods as they appear in nature—that is, whole (not processed, skinned, etc.).

Examples: fruits, grains, legumes, mushrooms, nuts, seeds, vegetables

 

WHOLE GRAINS (see GRAINS, WHOLE)

 

WILD RICE (see RICE, WILD)

 

WINE

(See sidebar.)

Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier of Rouge Tomate in New York City on Pairing Wine with Vegetarian and Vegan Dishes

Although we are not a vegetarian restaurant, the cuisine here is vegetable-focused. With meatless dishes, there is an incredible spectrum of aromas, tastes, and textures—from raw fennel to tomato-based dishes to grains and mushrooms. But with vegetables, 60 percent of the time, you’re talking about pairing with a white wine. To simplify things, think seasonally:

  • Spring / Summer: When there are lots of green vegetables—such as spring asparagus, fava beans, and peas—you’ll want to reach for aromatic wines with high acid, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, dry Muscat, and Riesling. In summertime, you can add high-acid wines such as Assyrtiko, Muscadet (which is great with asparagus and artichokes, which are often wine killers), and Vouvray.
  • Autumn / Winter: When there are lots of root vegetables—such as turnips and parsnips—you’ll want to turn to wines with more richness and oxidation, such as white wines from the Rhone, including Viognier and Roussanne/Marsanne blends. Chardonnay with some malolactic and some oak and [slate-grown] Chenin will work here, too. I love Fiano from Italy at this time of year, or Pinot Grigio or wines from Friuli that have been made with some skin contact.

When you do want a red wine with vegetable dishes, we’re talking about a higher-acid, lower-tannin red wine, such as a lighter-bodied Pinot Noir, Gamay (e.g., Beaujolais), or Grenache.

When I pair wines with dishes, I think about two primary things: (1) Texture: How a dish is built—(is it soft, crunchy, chewy, or melting in your mouth?), and (2) Flavor: Taste (is it sweet, sour, salty, bitter, umami?) plus Aroma.

When pairing with raw vegetables, there is typically a dressing of some kind—often lemon- or vinegar-based—to complement the crisp, bright, fresh flavors in the wine.

There are two main schools of thought: (1) Have the wine parallel a dish, so that it mimics it; or (2) have the wine balance the dish, so the wine brings something to the pairing. A few examples:

  • Green salad with herbs. This is always on the menu and is slightly bitter with a lemon vinaigrette, which gives an overall impression of freshness. So I’m looking for a fresh-tasting wine. Sauvignon Blanc is the obvious choice—but I like to play with different types. I’ve turned to Sauvignon Gris from Burgundy, which is more aromatic yet has the green notes of a Sauvignon Blanc plus the minerality of a Chablis. If you’re looking for a more adventurous or funky choice, I might turn to a dry Jurançon—a Manseng without oak, with a clean, herbal component.
  • Carrot salad with honey. This salad has a touch of sweetness from the carrots, which are roasted and poached and accented with honey, and has a very soft texture, so it’s almost melting in your mouth. The wine should have at least a hint of sweetness. I’m crazy about Chenin (Blanc), which can be slightly oily in texture while high in acid. Vouvray (which is made from Chenin Blanc) has a slightly vegetal character when it is young, and a touch of chamomile-like freshness, which is perfect with this.
  • Beet salad with pineapple. This is perfect with rosé, especially a Grenache-based rosé, which has a strawberry aspect and a sweeter and earthier profile. I’ve also paired this salad with a white wine from the Douro region of Portugal, made from Rabigato grapes. It’s rich and slightly off-dry, and similar to a Grenache Blanc, with its earthy tea and jasmine notes.
  • Potato/nettle soup. Because the base is potato, the soup is starchy and the texture is thick—plus it’s paired with an egg, which adds its own richness. So here, I want a wine that is rich and full-bodied, so higher in alcohol, to give the mouthfeel I’m looking for. I turn to a Juhfark from Hungary, which is similar to a Roussanne, but more aromatic and flinty.

 

WINTER

Weather: typically cold

Techniques: bake, braise, glaze, roast, simmer, slow-cook

allspice

apples

artichokes, Jerusalem

baked dishes

bananas

beans, e.g., dried, pinto, white

beets

braised dishes

broccoli (peak: February)

Brussels sprouts (peak: December)

buckwheat

cabbage, e.g., red, savoy

cardoons (peak: autumn/winter)

casseroles

cauliflower (peak: autumn/ winter)

celery root

chayote

cheese, Vacherin Mont d’Or

chestnuts (peak: autumn/winter)

chicories

chocolate

cinnamon

citrus

clementines

coconut

cranberries (peak: autumn/ winter)

daikon (peak: autumn/winter)

dates (peak: December)

endive, Belgian

escarole

fennel (peak: autumn/winter)

flour, heavier, e.g., buckwheat

frisée

grains, heavy

grapefruit (peak: February)

gratins

greens, bitter, e.g., mustard, turnip

herbs, dried

hot dishes

jícama (peak: winter/spring)

kale

kasha

kumquats (peak: autumn/winter)

leeks

lemons (peak: January)

lemons, Meyer

lentils (peak: autumn/winter)

limes

mâche

maple syrup

melon, winter

miso, dark

mushrooms, e.g., matsutake, wild

noodles, soba, esp. served hot

nutmeg

nuts

oils, nut

onions, e.g., pearl

oranges, e.g., blood

oranges, mandarin (peak: January)

parsley root

parsnips

passion fruit

pears (peak: December)

plantains

pomelo

potatoes, esp. baked

pressure-cooked dishes

radicchio

radishes, e.g., black (peak: winter/ spring)

ragoûts

roasted dishes

root vegetables, e.g., carrots, celery root, parsnips, rutabagas, sweet potatoes, turnips

rosemary

rutabagas

sage

salsify (peak: autumn/winter)

savory, winter

SLOW-COOKED

soups, hot

spices, warming

squash, winter, e.g., acorn, buttercup, butternut, delicata

stews

sweet potatoes (peak: December)

tangerines (peak: January)

todok

truffles, e.g., black

turnips (peak: December)

ugli fruit (peak: winter/spring)

wakame (peak: winter/spring)

water chestnuts (peak: February)

yams (peak: December)