CHARD, RED / RUBY (see CHARD)

 

CHARD, SWISS (see CHARD)

 

images  CHAYOTE (aka CHAYOTE SQUASH and MIRLITON; see also SQUASH, SUMMER)

Season: winter

Flavor: neutral, with notes of cucumbers and zucchini, and a crisp, fibrous texture; its soft, edible seed has been described as a cross between an almond and a lima bean

Volume: very quiet–quiet

What it is: technically a fruit

Nutritional profile: 77% carbs / 17% fat / 6% protein

Calories: 40 per 1-cup serving (boiled)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake, boil (8–10 minutes), broil, grate, grill, parboil, puree, raw, sauté, sous-vide, steam, stew, stuff

Tip: It can be prepared as you would zucchini.

Botanical relatives: gourds, squash

Possible substitutes: summer squash, zucchini

almonds

apples

bell peppers, e.g., red

bread crumbs

butter

Caribbean cuisines

Central American cuisine

cheese, e.g., Monterey Jack

chiles, e.g., chipotle, jalapeño

cilantro

cinnamon

coconut milk

corn

cream

Creole / Cajun cuisine, in which the chayote is known as mirliton

curries

enchiladas

fennel and fennel seeds

garlic

ginger

gratins

honey

Jamaican cuisine

Latin American cuisines

lemon

lime

Louisiana cuisine, in which the chayote is known as mirliton

mango

Mexican cuisine

oil, olive

onions, e.g., spring, white, yellow

orange

oregano

parsley

pumpkin seeds

salads, e.g., fruit, green, potato

salsas

scallions

slaws

soups

sour cream

Southern (U.S.) cuisine

squash, acorn

stews

stir-fries

stock, vegetable

stuffed chayotes

sushi, e.g., nori rolls

sweet potatoes

tarragon

thyme

tofu, e.g., firm

tomatoes

tortillas, corn

tostadas

turmeric

vanilla

watercress

Flavor Affinities

chayote + almonds + cinnamon + honey

chayote + garlic + onions + tomatoes

Dishes

Chayote en Mole Verde: Braised Chayote in Aroma of Acorn Squash, Herby Green Pumpkin Seed Mole, Creamy Pumpkin Seed Tamal, Yogurt-Infused Chayote Pearls

—Topolobampo (Chicago)

 

images  CHEESE, ASIAGO

Volume: quiet–moderate

Possible substitutes: Parmesan, Romano

almonds

arugula

breads, e.g., focaccia

eggs, e.g., frittatas

enchiladas

figs

garlic

grapes

Italian cuisine

pastas

pizzas

potatoes

salads, e.g., green, pasta

spinach

squash, summer

tomatoes

zucchini

 

images  CHEESE, BLUE (e.g., GORGONZOLA, ROQUEFORT, STILTON)

Volume: loud

Flavor Affinities

blue cheese + almonds + watercress

blue cheese + apples + celery

blue cheese + apples + fennel

blue cheese + apricots + balsamic vinegar + celery + hazelnuts

blue cheese + celery + dates

blue cheese + cucumbers + tomatoes

BLUE CHEESE + FRUIT (e.g., figs, peaches, pears) + greens (e.g., spinach) + NUTS (e.g., hazelnuts, pecans, walnuts)

blue cheese + fruit (e.g., pears) + greens (e.g., spinach)

blue cheese + greens (e.g., romaine, spinach) + nuts (e.g., walnuts)

blue cheese + leeks + thyme

blue cheese + onions + pears + pecans + spinach

blue cheese + onions + walnuts

Dishes

Hearth-Fired Fig and Maytag Blue Cheese Flatbread with Caramelized Onion, Arugula, Balsamic Glaze

—Canyon Ranch (Miami Beach, FL)

“Bleu d’Auvergne”: Swiss Chard “Subric,” Michigan Sour Cherries, and Brown Butter Toasted Walnuts

—Per Se (New York City)

 

CHEESE, BRIE

Volume: moderate

Techniques: bake

Possible substitutes: Camembert

almonds

apples

argula

bread, esp. baguettes

cherries

dates

fennel

figs

melon

mesclun

mushrooms, morel

nuts, e.g., pistachios

onions

pears

salads

sandwiches

strawberries

vegetables, e.g., raw

vinegar, fruit, e.g., raspberry

Flavor Affinities

brie cheese + arugula + pears

 

images  CHEESE, BURRATA

Volume: quiet

basil

beans, e.g., fava

bread

carrots

cucumbers

garlic

Italian cuisine

melon, e.g., cantaloupe

nuts, e.g., cashews

oil, olive

onions, red

pastas

peaches

pesto

plums

salt

tomatoes

vinegar, balsamic

Flavor Affinities

burrata + balsamic vinegar + basil + red onions + tomatoes

“I love burrata cheese. We have served it warm with pasta and pesto, or with pickled vegetables and crispy quinoa, or with carrot top pesto along with carrots and fava beans, and even with cantaloupe with melon granite and toasted cashews. I want to take a cheese that people are familiar with and show that you can use it during all four seasons. There is a cheese maker here in the U.S. from Puglia who makes incredible cheese [sold by Zingerman’s].”

—JON DUBOIS, GREEN ZEBRA (CHICAGO)

Dishes

“Caprese Salad”: Marinated French Laundry Garden Tomatoes, Jellied Burrata, Aged Balsamic Vinegar, Toasted Pine Nuts, and Petite Basil

—The French Laundry (Yountville, CA)

Zingerman’s Burrata, Salted Cucumber, Pomelo, Shallot Aigre-Doux, Pumpernickel–Pine Nut Streusel

—Green Zebra (Chicago)

Zingerman’s Burrata, Nichols Farm Tomato Jam, Basil Granita, Preserved Lemon

—Green Zebra (Chicago)

Burrata Mozzarella, White Peaches, Chili Powder, Fresh Almonds, Mint

—Verjus (Paris)

 

Dishes

Mac and Cheese with Horseradish, Sharp Cheddar, and Cracked Black Pepper

—Mana Food Bar, Chicago

 

images  CHEESE, CHÈVRE (aka FRESH GOAT CHEESE; see CHEESE, GOAT)

 

images  CHEESE, COTIJA (see CHEESE, QUESO AÑEJO)

 

 

images  CHEESE, CREAM (see also FROMAGE BLANC)

Flavor: sour, with a rich yet spreadable texture

Volume: moderate–loud

What it is: a fresh, unripened cheese

Nutritional profile: 88% fat / 7% protein / 5% carbs

Calories: 50 per 1-tablespoon serving

Protein: 1 gram

Tip: Opt for image fat-free cream cheese.

Possible Substitute: Neufchâtel

apples

apricots

avocado

beets

bell peppers, e.g., red

BERRIES

blueberries

breads, fruit and/or nut, e.g., date-nut

capers

carrots

celery

cheese, e.g., blue, chèvre, fresh, goat, ricotta

cheesecake

cherries

chives

chocolate

cinnamon

coconut

coffee

cranberries

dates

desserts

dips

frostings, e.g., for carrot cake

fruit, dried

garlic

ginger

graham crackers

guava

honey

kiwi

LEMON, e.g., juice, zest

maple syrup

mascarpone

mint

mustard

nutmeg

nuts

olives

orange, e.g., juice, zest

oregano

parsley

pineapple

pistachios

plums, dried

quince paste

raisins

raspberries

rhubarb

salt

sandwiches, e.g., grilled cheese

sauces

scallions

seeds, e.g., sesame

sour cream

spinach

spreads

strawberries

sugar, e.g., powdered

thyme

tomatoes, e.g., sun-dried

vanilla

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

cream cheese + avocado + chili pepper sauce + garlic + lemon juice

cream cheese + maple syrup + mascarpone

cream cheese + spinach + sun-dried tomatoes

 

“CHEESE, CREAM”—CASHEW NUT (VEGAN)

Tip: Use as you would regular cream cheese.

Brand: Dr. Cow Tree Nut Cheeses (made with cashews or macadamia nuts)

“We make our own ‘cream cheese’ served on our raw ‘everything bagel’ by soaking cashews and macadamia nuts and pureeing them with garlic, lemon juice, red onions, salt and pepper, and water.”

—CASSIE AND MARLENE TOLMAN, POMEGRANATE CAFÉ (PHOENIX)

 

“CHEESE, CREAM”—SOY

Brands: Check out tofu cream cheese from Follow Your Heart, Galaxy, or Tofutti, but make sure it has no added trans-fats.

bagels

desserts

icing, e.g., cakes, cupcakes (e.g., carrot, zucchini)

Flavor Affinities

tofu cream cheese + maple syrup + orange juice/zest + vanilla

 

Dishes

Napa Cabbage, Pears, Winter Truffles, Emmentaler Cheese Fondue

—Dovetail (New York City)

 

images  CHEESE, FETA

Flavor: salty and sour; semi-firm/crumbly

Techniques: bake, fresh, smoke

Vegan Tip: Substitute fluffy macadamia nut “feta.”

apples

arugula

asparagus

barley

basil

beans, e.g., borlotti, lima, red

beets

bell peppers, e.g., red, roasted

breads, e.g., olive, whole wheat pita

capers

chard, e.g., Swiss

chickpeas

cilantro

cucumbers

dates

dill

eggplant

EGGS, e.g., frittatas, omelets, quiches

farro

fennel

figs

garlic

grapes

gratins

Greek cuisine

honey

kale

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lentils, e.g., red

lettuce, e.g., romaine

marjoram

Mediterranean cuisines

mint

mushrooms

oil, olive

OLIVES, e.g., black, Greek, kalamata

onions, e.g., pickled, red

orange

oregano

parsley

pasta, e.g., farfalle, orzo

pepper, black

pistachios

pizza

potatoes

quinoa

risotto

rosemary

sage

salad dressings

SALADS, e.g., Greek, vegetable

sandwiches

sauces

savory

scallions

sesame

sorrel

soups, e.g., tomato

spanakopita, i.e., spinach pie

SPINACH

spreads, e.g., whipped feta

sumac

thyme

TOMATOES

tomatoes, sun-dried

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, red wine

walnuts

watermelon

yogurt

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

feta cheese + artichoke hearts + garlic + spinach + pizza

feta cheese + arugula + figs

feta cheese + asparagus + eggs + tomatoes

feta cheese + balsamic vinegar + sun-dried tomatoes

feta cheese + bell peppers + mushrooms

feta cheese + black olives + orzo + sun-dried tomatoes

feta cheese + dill + eggs + spinach

feta cheese + fennel + watermelon

feta cheese + garlic + oregano

feta cheese + lemon + scallions

feta cheese + marjoram + mint + tomatoes

feta cheese + olive oil + olives + parsley + red onions + tomatoes

feta cheese + rosemary + spinach

“We smoke feta cheese in cherry wood. Feta really absorbs flavor, so you need a mild wood.”

—AMANDA COHEN, DIRT CANDY (NEW YORK CITY)

Dishes

Hearth-Fired Mediterranean Flatbread with Babaganoush, Feta Cheese, Roasted Fennel, Kalamata Olives, Roasted Peppers

—Canyon Ranch (Miami Beach, FL)

 

Dishes

Macaroni with Fontina Cheese and Chanterelle Mushrooms

—White Barn Inn (Kennebunk, ME)

 

images  CHEESE, GOAT

Techniques: bake, fresh

almonds

apples

apricots, dried or fresh

artichokes

arugula

asparagus

basil

beans, e.g., fava, wax

BEETS

bell peppers, red, esp. roasted

berries, e.g., blackberries, raspberries, strawberries

breads, e.g., fruit and/or nut; whole grain

broccoli

capers

carrots

cayenne

celery

chard

cheese, other, e.g., cream, Neufchâtel, ricotta

cheesecake

cherries, e.g., dried, fresh, sour, sweet

chervil

chiles, e.g., pequillo; and chili pepper flakes, chili pepper sauce

chives

cinnamon

corn

cranberries, dried

cream

dates

dill

dips

eggplant

EGGS, e.g., frittatas, omelets, quiches

endive

fennel and fennel seeds

FIGS

GARLIC grains, e.g., millet

grapes

greens, e.g., salad

hazelnuts

herbs

honey

kohlrabi

LEEKS

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lentils

lettuce

lime

marjoram

mint

mushrooms, e.g., shiitake

nuts, e.g., pecans

oil, e.g., hazelnut, olive, pine nut, walnut

olives, e.g., black

ONIONS, e.g., caramelized, green, red

orange, e.g., juice, zest

oregano

parsley

pasta, e.g., lasagna, ravioli, tortellini

peaches

pears

pepper, e.g., black, white

pesto

pine nuts

pistachios

pizzas

plantains

plums, dried or fresh

polenta

pomegranates

potatoes

quesadillas

quince

quinoa

raisins

ramps

risotto

rosemary

sage

SALADS, e.g., fruit, green

salt, sea

sandwiches, e.g., grilled cheese

sauces

savory

scallions

seeds, e.g., poppy

soufflés

SPINACH

squash, e.g., summer

sweet potatoes

tapenade

tarts

thyme

TOMATOES

TOMATOES, SUN-DRIED

vanilla

vegetables, roasted

vinaigrette

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, cider, red wine, sherry

walnuts

wheat berries

yogurt

za’atar

zucchini

zucchini blossoms

Flavor Affinities

goat cheese + apples + beets

goat cheese + apples + celery + salads

goat cheese + arugula + eggs

goat cheese + arugula + pears

goat cheese + balsamic vinegar + beets + dill + sage

goat cheese + balsamic vinegar + figs

goat cheese + basil + garlic

goat cheese + beets + cider vinegar

goat cheese + capers + garlic + oregano + sun-dried tomatoes

goat cheese + caramelized onions + sage

goat cheese + figs + pomegranate seeds

goat cheese + garlic + greens + thyme

goat cheese + garlic + olive oil + thyme

goat cheese + grapes + pistachios

goat cheese + mushrooms + pine nuts + spinach

goat cheese + pears + walnuts

goat cheese + pesto + sun-dried tomatoes

goat cheese + red onions + tomatoes

goat cheese + scallions + sun-dried tomatoes

 

images  CHEESE, GORGONZOLA (see CHEESE, BLUE)

 

images  CHEESE, GOUDA

apples

apricots

arugula

bread, e.g., sourdough

cherries

honey

mushrooms

onions

pears

pizzas

salads

soups, e.g., onion

spinach

walnuts

Dishes

Onion Soup “2013,” with Smoked Gouda, Sourdough “Sponge,” Onion Bouillon

—Picholine (New York City)

Heirloom Apple and Smoked Gouda Salad with Honey Walnut Dressing

—Rancho La Puerta (Mexico)

 

Dishes

Vermont Egg Omelette with Wilted Spinach, Gruyère Cheese, and Chives

—Café Boulud (New York City)

 

images  CHEESE, HALLOUMI

Flavor: salty/sour, with notes of feta cheese and sometimes mint, and a firm, chewy, almost meaty texture that can even stand up to grilling without melting

Volume: quiet

What it is: Greek cheese made from sheep’s or, sometimes, goat’s milk

Techniques: bake, GRILL, sauté, sear—or serve fresh

arugula

bell peppers, e.g., red, roasted

bread, e.g., pita, whole grain

capers

carrots

chard

Cyprian cuisine

dates

dill

eggplant

figs

garlic

ginger

Greek cuisine

greens, salad

harissa

honey

kebabs

Lebanese cuisine

leeks

lemons

lentils

limes

melon

mint

oil, olive

olives, e.g., kalamata

parsley

peaches

pears

pepper, black

pesto

pine nuts

salads, e.g., green

salt, sea

sandwiches

Syrian cuisine

tomatoes

walnuts

za’atar

Flavor Affinities

Halloumi cheese + capers + lemon

Dishes

Grilled Halloumi Cheese and Peaches with Chard Rib Salad, Sun-Dried Olive, and Sweet Pepper Broth

—Oleana (Cambridge, MA)

 

images  CHEESE, HAVARTI

Flavor: notes of butter

Volume: quiet

bell peppers, e.g., roasted

breads, e.g., whole rye

cucumbers

dill

fruits, esp. autumn

horseradish

mustard

nuts, e.g., almonds

pears

pesto

sandwiches

sour cream

zucchini

 

 

images  CHEESE, MANCHEGO

ALMONDS

artichokes

bell peppers, e.g., roasted

breads, e.g., crusty, fruit (e.g., fig)

broccoli rabe

dates

eggs, e.g., omelets, tortillas

figs

membrillo (quince paste)

oil, olive

olives, e.g., black, green, Spanish

onions, e.g., caramelized

parsley

peppers, e.g., piquillo, red, roasted

plum paste

*QUINCE PASTE

salads

Spanish cuisine

tomatoes

walnuts

Flavor Affinities

manchego cheese + almonds + broccoli rabe

manchego cheese + almonds + quince paste

manchego cheese + artichokes + olives

manchego cheese + dates + walnuts

manchego cheese + figs + walnuts

Dishes

Manchego Chopped Salad of Garbanzo Beans, Vegetables, Olives, Capers, and Manchego Cheese, tossed with Roasted Lemon Vinaigrette

—Canyon Ranch (Miami Beach, FL)

 

Dishes

Hearth-Fired Whole-Wheat Margherita Flatbread: Flatbread Crust with Hearth-Roasted Tomatoes, Fresh Buffalo Mozzarella and Basil

—Canyon Ranch (Miami Beach, FL)

Hand-Pulled Mozzarella, with Grapes, Capers, and Olives

—FnB Restaurant (Scottsdale, AZ)

Heirloom Tomato and Mozzarella Cheese: Buffalo Milk Mozzarella, Panzanella, Cannellini Crema, Pesto, and 25-Year-Old Balsamic Vinegar

—Mayflower Inn & Spa (Washington, CT)

 

images  CHEESE, PARMESAN

Vegan Tip: To add saltiness and texture to pastas, substitute bread crumbs and capers for Parmesan cheese on top of the dish.

artichoke hearts and artichokes

arugula

asparagus

basil

beans, e.g., borlotti, fava, green, white

bread crumbs

broccoli

casseroles

celery root

chard, Swiss

chestnuts

chickpeas

dates

eggplant

eggs, e.g., frittatas

endive

escarole

fennel

figs

frittatas

fruits, e.g., grapes

garlic

gratins

grits

honey

Italian cuisine

kale, e.g., black, green

kohlrabi

leeks

lemon

melon

mushrooms, e.g., portobello

oil, olive

onions

PASTA, e.g., farfalle, gnocchi, lasagna, macaroni, manicotti

pears

pesto

pine nuts

pizza

polenta

popcorn

potatoes

pumpkin

quiches

risottos

rosemary

sage

salad dressings, e.g., Caesar

SALADS, e.g., Caesar

sauces

soups

squash, summer

stuffings

sugar snap peas

thyme

TOMATOES

tomatoes, green

vinegar, e.g., balsamic

walnuts

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

Parmesan cheese + basil + tomato

Parmesan cheese + dates + walnuts

Parmesan cheese + honey + thyme + walnuts

Parmesan cheese + portobello mushrooms + rosemary

Dishes

Parmesan Cheese Ice Cream with Crisp Fig Fritter

—The White Barn Inn (Kennebunk, ME)

 

images  CHEESE, PECORINO

almonds

arugula

beets

bell peppers, esp., roasted, sweet

broccoli

cauliflower

cheese, other, e.g., Parmesan, ricotta

eggs, e.g., frittata

endive

grapes

greens, salad

honey, e.g., chestnut

Italian cuisine

lemon

mushrooms, portobello

oil, e.g., olive

parlsey

pasta, e.g., spaghetti

pears

pepper, e.g., black

pesto

polenta

risottos

salads

squash, summer

truffles

vinegar, e.g., balsamic

walnuts

watercress

Flavor Affinities

pecorino cheese + arugula + walnuts

Dishes

Heirloom Tomato Tasting with Arugula Pesto, Pecorino, and Smoked Olive Oil

—Plume (Washington, DC)

 

 

images  CHEESE, QUESO AÑEJO

What it is: Mexican aged cheese

Techniques: crumble or grate on top of dishes

Possible substitutes: Parmesan, pecorino, Romano

basil

beans, e.g., refried

cayenne

chilaquiles

chiles and chili powder

cilantro

corn, e.g., grilled (e.g., with mayonnaise)

eggs and egg dishes, e.g., frittatas, huevos rancheros

enchiladas

garlic

greens, salad

lime

Mexican cuisine

oil, olive

onions

pastas

“pesto”

pumpkin seeds

salad dressings

salads, e.g., Caesar

soups

tacos

tortillas

vegetables

vinegar

Flavor Affinities

queso añejo cheese + cayenne + corn + mayonnaise

queso añejo cheese + cilantro + pumpkin seeds

 

images  CHEESE, QUESO FRESCO

Techniques: crumble on top of dishes

Possible substitutes: mild feta or other mild fresh goat cheese

avocados

beans, black

corn

eggplant

enchiladas

Mexican cuisine

plantains

quesadillas

refried beans

salads, e.g., green, vegetable

squash, summer

tacos

tomatoes

 

images  CHEESE, RICOTTA

Flavor: neutral, with a creamy texture

Volume: quiet

Nutritional profile: 66% fat / 28% protein / 6% carbs

Calories: 215 per ½-cup serving (whole-milk ricotta)

Protein: 14 grams

Techniques: bake, raw

Vegan Tip: Substitute pine nut (which has a similar fluffy texture), macadamia nut / pumpkin seed, or tofu “ricotta.”

ricotta + almonds + cinnamon + honey + peanut butter + vanilla

ricotta + almonds + honey

ricotta + apricots + arugula

ricotta + artichokes + leeks + pizza

ricotta + balsamic vinegar + strawberries

ricotta + basil + Parmesan cheese + pasta + pine nuts

ricotta + blueberries + lemon

ricotta + chestnuts + honey

ricotta + chocolate + strawberries

ricotta + dried fruit + honey

ricotta + egg + herbs + Parmesan cheese + pies

ricotta + fava beans + lemon + pasta

ricotta + figs + honey + pistachios

ricotta + figs + walnuts

ricotta + greens + pasta

ricotta + honey + lemon + sour cream

ricotta + peas + thyme

ricotta + sage + zucchini blossoms

Dishes

House-Made Ricotta Ravioli: Fennel, Tomato, Lemon Breadcrumb

—Boulud Sud (New York City)

“Vacherin”: Ricotta Pound Cake, Bing Cherries, Lemon Verbena, and Tahitian Vanilla-Lime Ice Cream

—The French Laundry (Yountville, CA)

Genovese Basil “Tortellini” with Ricotta, Brentwood Corn, Shishito Peppers, and French Laundry Garden Squash

—The French Laundry (Yountville, CA)

Ricotta Pie: Baked Ricotta with Fresh Herbs and One Egg

—North Fork Table & Inn (Southold, New York)

Grilled Figs with Creamy Honeyed Ricotta and Almonds

—Rancho La Puerta (Mexico)

 

 

images  CHEESE, ROQUEFORT (see CHEESE, BLUE)

 

images  CHEESE, ROMANO

almonds

broccoli

Italian cuisine

mushrooms, e.g., portobello

pastas, e.g., fettuccine

pesto

pizzas

salads

soups

Dishes

Tomato Artichoke Romano Salad: Tomatoes, Cannellini Beans, Artichokes, Green Olives, and Romano Cheese, tossed in a Lemon Dressing

—Canyon Ranch (Tucson, AZ)

 

images  CHEESE, SMOKED MOZZARELLA

artichokes

arugula

asparagus

basil

bell peppers, roasted

broccoli

bruschetta

escarole

figs

gratins

honey

mushrooms

olive paste

onions, e.g., caramelized

pastas, e.g., baked, penne

pesto

pizza

potatoes

radicchio

risotto

sandwiches, e.g., panini

scallions

spinach

tomatoes

Flavor Affinities

smoked mozzarella + basil + tomatoes

smoked mozzarella + potatoes + scallions

 

CHEESE, STILTON (see CHEESE, BLUE)

 

images  CHEESE, SWISS

apples

asparagus

bread, e.g., pumpernickel

eggs, e.g., frittatas, quiches

fennel

grapes

gratins

kale

leeks

mushrooms, portobello

onions

parsnips

pears

potatoes

sandwiches, e.g., “Reuben”

sauces

Swiss cuisine

 

 

“CHEESE,” VEGAN

calzones

cheese plates, e.g., with fruits, nuts

dips, e.g., cheese

eggplant, e.g., baked eggplant

enchiladas

fondues

pastas, e.g., macaroni

pizzas

quesadillas

sandwiches, e.g., grilled cheese, “Reuben”

veggie burgers

Say (Vegan) Cheese!

Many vegans enjoy Daiya or Follow Your Heart brand vegan cheeses, which come in various flavors (e.g., cheddar, mozzarella) and often melt and stretch much as dairy cheese does.

I have been more impressed with the flavor of the artisanal vegan cheeses I’ve tasted, such as those at Pure Food and Wine in Manhattan. Portobello in Portland, Oregon, serves an artisanal vegan cheese plate that showcases cheeses from cheese-makers across the country, including Field Roast, Seattle-based producer of Chao Cheese (herb-crusted, tofu-based cheeses), Door 86 (Nashville), Heidi Ho (Portland, OR), Kite Hill (Hayward, CA), Punk Rawk Labs (Minneapolis), and Treeline Treenut Cheese (Kingston, NY).

Interested in making your own? Check out Miyoko Schinner’s 2012 book Artisan Vegan Cheese, which is developing a cult following among vegan chefs and foodies.

 

images  CHERRIES, SOUR and SWEET

Season: summer

Flavor: sweet and/or sour, with a juicy texture

Volume: moderate

What they are: fruit

Nutritional profile: 88% carbs / 7% protein / 5% fat (sour)

Calories: 80 per 1-cup serving (e.g., sour, raw)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: bake, dry, flambé, poach, raw, stew

Tips: Off-season, consider frozen cherries. Sour cherries are more nutritionally dense than sweet.

Botanical relatives: apples, apricots, blackberries, peaches, pears, plums, quinces, raspberries, strawberries

allspice

ALMONDS

apples and apple juice

apricots

baked goods, e.g., cakes, cookies, crisps

basil

blackberries

brandy

butter

caramel

cardamom

CHEESE, e.g., cream, GOAT, ricotta

cherries jubilee

chiles, e.g., jalapeño

CHOCOLATE

chutneys

CINNAMON

citrus, e.g., juice

clafoutis, cherry

cloves

coconut

compotes

corn / cornmeal

cream and crème fraîche

crisp, fruit

currants, red

ginger

granola

hazelnuts

honey

ice cream

*KIRSCH

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lemon verbena

mint

nectarines

nutmeg

nuts

oatmeal and oats

orange, e.g., juice, zest

peaches

pears

pecans

pepper, black

pies

pistachios

plums

rhubarb

salads, e.g., fruit, green

sauces, dessert

smoothies

sorbets

soups, e.g., fruit

sour cream

star anise

sugar

tarts

VANILLA

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, regular or white

wine, esp. dry, red or port

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

cherries + almonds + apricots

cherries + almonds + balsamic vinegar

cherries + almonds + chocolate

cherries + apricots + oats

cherries + basil + vanilla

cherries + cinnamon + ginger + orange juice + vanilla

cherries + cinnamon + wine

cherries + ginger + pears

cherries + lemon + mascarpone + vanilla

cherries + peaches + pecans

cherries + pistachios + yogurt