images  EGGPLANT, JAPANESE

Season: year-round, esp. autumn

Volume: quieter than other eggplant

Techniques: bake, broil, deep-fry, grill, pickle, roast, simmer, steam, stir-fry

Tip: Japanese eggplant retains its texture after roasting and absorbs less oil.

Botanical relatives: peppers, potatoes, tomatoes

Possible substitute: eggplant

basil and Thai basil

bell peppers, red or yellow, esp. roasted

cabbage

capers

cheese, e.g., mozzarella

chiles, e.g., red

Chinese cuisine

dips

five-spice powder

GARLIC

ginger

gomashio

Indian cuisine

Japanese cuisine

lemon

lime

mint

mirin

miso

mushrooms, e.g., shiitake

oil, olive

olives

onions, red

pastas, e.g., lasagna

peanuts and peanut sauce

pine nuts

pizzas

relishes

rice

sake

salads

salt

sauces, e.g., oyster (vegetarian), peanut

scallions

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

shiso

soy sauce

spinach

sugar, e.g., brown

tamari

tofu

vinegar, e.g., apple cider, balsamic, red wine, rice, sherry

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

Japanese eggplant + garlic + lime + miso

Japanese eggplant + ginger + soy sauce

 

EGGS (e.g., FRESH)

Flavor: slightly sweet, with astringent notes

Volume: quiet

Nutritional profile: 63% fat / 35% protein / 2% carbs

Calories: 70 per large egg (whole, raw)

Protein: 6 grams

Tips: Consider organic, omega-3-enriched eggs. If you eat eggs, make sure they are organic and humanely raised.

arugula

asparagus

avocado

basil

bell peppers, esp. roasted

bread, esp. whole-wheat

burritos

butter

capers

casseroles

CHEESE, e.g., cheddar, Comté, cream, Emmental, feta, goat, Gruyère, Havarti, Monterey Jack, mozzarella, Parmesan, ricotta, Roquefort

chervil

chili pepper sauce and chili powder

chives

cream

cumin

curry powder

custards

desserts

dill

egg foo yung

eggplant

eggs, deviled

fennel

French toast

frisée

frittatas

garlic

greens, e.g., braised, salad

herbs

huevos rancheros

kale

leeks

marjoram

mayonnaise

milk

MUSHROOMS, e.g., morel, portobello

oil, olive

omelets

onions

oregano

paprika

parsley

pepper, e.g., black, white

pesto

pizzas

polenta

potatoes

quiches

salad dressings

salads, e.g., egg, green

salsas

salt, e.g., kosher, sea

savory

scallions

scrambles

shallots

sorrel

soufflés

soups, e.g., avgolemono

soy sauce

SPINACH

sweet potatoes

tacos

tarragon

thyme

tomatoes

tortilla, Spanish

vinegar

watercress

yogurt

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

eggs + asparagus + chives + Gruyère cheese

eggs + asparagus + frittata + goat cheese

eggs + basil + tomatoes

eggs + goat cheese + leeks

eggs + Gruyère cheese + spinach

eggs + kale + ricotta

eggs + lemon + rice + soups

eggs + mushrooms + scallions

eggs + nutmeg + spinach

eggs + peas + shiitake mushrooms

eggs + shallots + spinach

Dishes

This Morning’s Farm Egg: First of the Season Corn, and Stone Barns Celtuse

—Blue Hill (New York City)

Organic Connecticut Farm Egg, Steamed Polenta, Artichoke, Sunchoke, Coconut Garlic Broth

—Bouley (New York City)

“Shirred” Hen Egg: Brentwood Corn “Ragoût,” Caramelized Okra, and Garden Dill Mousseline

—Per Se (New York City)

 

Dishes

Deviled Eggs with Curry Powder and Smoked Paprika

—The Library Bar at The Peacock (New York City)

Vegan Egg Substitutes

For breakfast, instead of scrambling eggs, “scramble” tofu (e.g., extra-firm) with herbs and/or vegetables. Firm tofu also replaces hard-boiled egg whites in vegan dishes (e.g., “egg salads”).

When baking, you can use Ener-G Egg Replacer, a potato starch–based product that can often replace eggs in the ratio of 1½ teaspoons Ener-G to 2 tablespoons water for each egg, or other commercial egg replacers. However, there are probably already egg replacers in your cupboard or refrigerator, as you’ll see below.

How to know which other substitute to use? First, determine whether its need is for binding (i.e., holding the mixture together, without the need to rise, e.g., casseroles, veggie burgers), leavening (i.e., by adding air bubbles to a batter or dough, as well-beaten eggs do, e.g., in baked goods such as breads, cakes, cupcakes, or muffins), or simply adding moisture.

Egg Substitutes, each equivalent to 1 egg (best use)

  • ¼ cup applesauce (adding moisture, e.g., in brownies, cakes, cupcakes, quickbreads)
  • ¼ cup avocado, mashed (binding)
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda + 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar (leavening and adding moisture)
  • ½ mashed banana (adding moisture and/or binding, e.g., in cakes, muffins, pancakes, quick breads)
  • ¼ cup carbonated water (leavening)
  • 1 tablespoon chia seed meal + 3 tablespoons water, mixed (adding moisture; for leavening, add ¼ teaspoon baking powder)
  • ¼ cup full-fat coconut milk + 1 teaspoon baking powder (leavening, esp. in compatibly flavored dishes)
  • ¼ cup dried fruit (e.g., apricot, prune) puree (adding moisture)
  • 1 tablespoon ground flax seeds + 3 tablespoons water, mixed (binding; for leavening: add ¼ teaspoon baking powder, esp. in nut/seed-compatible dishes, e.g., whole-grain cookies, muffins, pancakes)
  • 3 tablespoons nut butter, e.g., peanut (binding, e.g., grain-based veggie burgers)
  • ¼ cup silken tofu, blended (adding moisture, esp. in heavier baked goods, e.g., brownies, carrot cakes)
  • ¼ cup vegetable puree, e.g., beets, carrots, pumpkin (adding moisture)
  • ¼ cup yogurt, dairy or nondairy (adding moisture, e.g., in cakes, muffins, pancakes, quick breads)

“We don’t cook with eggs, so I use lemon juice or apple cider vinegar with baking powder to make my cakes rise. I’ve used Ener-G Egg Replacer when baking cookies. It has also worked surprisingly well in ‘meringues’ and looks beautiful.”

—KATE JACOBY, VEDGE (PHILADELPHIA)

 

EGYPTIAN CUISINE

baba ghanoush

beans, e.g., fava

cheese, white

chickpeas

coriander

cucumbers

cumin

dill

dukkah

fennel seeds

garlic

grape leaves

hummus

lentils, e.g., red

marjoram

mint

nuts, e.g., almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios

oil, e.g., olive

pasta, e.g., macaroni

pepper, black

pine nuts

rice

salt, sea

seeds, e.g., sesame

soups, e.g., red lentil

spinach

stuffed cabbage

tabbouleh

tahini

thyme

tomatoes and tomato sauce

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

cucumber + mint + yogurt

cumin + fava beans + lemon juice + olive oil

 

images  ENDIVE (aka BELGIAN ENDIVE)

Season: year-round, esp. autumn–spring

Flavor: slightly bitter/sweet, with a crisp, crunchy texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: vegetable

Nutritional profile: 72% carbs / 18% protein / 10% fat

Calories: 5 per ½-cup serving (chopped, raw)

Techniques: bake, boil, braise (5–10 minutes), broil, fry, glaze, grill, raw, roast, sauté, steam, stir-fry, stuff

Tips: Dip whole, raw endive leaves into dips instead of chips or serve leaves filled with purees or spreads.

Botanical relatives: artichokes, chamomile, chicory, dandelion greens, lettuces (e.g., Bibb, iceberg, romaine), radicchio, salsify, tarragon

Flavor Affinities

endive + arugula + pears + walnuts

endive + avocado + grapefruit

endive + avocado + red onion + watercress

endive + baby greens + fennel + garlic + Parmesan cheese + vinaigrette

endive + balsamic vinegar + garlic + olive oil

endive + blue cheese + farro + pears

endive + blue cheese + mushrooms + pecans

ENDIVE + CHEESE (e.g., blue, Gruyère, pecorino) + FRUIT (e.g., apples, oranges, pears) + NUTS (e.g., hazelnuts, walnuts)

endive + dill + hazelnuts + lemon + olive oil + potatoes

endive + lemon + olive oil + parsley

endive + Parmesan cheese + portobello mushrooms

endive + Parmesan cheese + white beans

“I’ve been making savory vegetarian muffins based on combinations of vegetables, cheese, and nuts or seeds, and one of my favorites is based on caramelized endive, blue cheese, and walnuts.”

—DIANE FORLEY, FLOURISH BAKING COMPANY (SCARSDALE, NY)

Dishes

Salad of Belgian Endive: Lychee, Navel Orange, Piedmont Hazelnuts, Mizuna, and Australian Black Truffle

—The French Laundry (Yountville, CA)

Endive: Grilled Endive and Radicchio, Toasted Hazelnuts, Amish Blue Cheese, and White Balsamic

—Mana Food Bar (Chicago)

Endive Salad with Pickled Asian Pears, Kale, Pomegranate, Red Quinoa, Pecans, and Persimmon Vinaigrette

—Mohawk Bend (Los Angeles)

Endive “Mikado” with Rutabaga Sauerkraut, Tarragon, and Mustard Sauce

—Picholine (New York City)

 

ENDIVE, CURLY (see FRISÉE)

 

EPAZOTE

[eh-pah-ZOH-teh]

Flavor: bitter/sweet, with pungent notes of cilantro, coriander, fennel, herbs, lemon, mint, oregano, parsley, and/or sage

Volume: moderate–loud

What’s healthful about it: enhances flavor and aids in the digestibility of beans

Possible substitute: Mexican oregano

avocados

BEANS, e.g., BLACK, pinto

beans, refried

Central American cuisines

chayote

cheese, e.g., manchego, Mexican, Monterey Jack, mozzarella

chilaquiles

chiles, e.g., chipotle; chili pepper flakes, chili pepper sauce, and chili powder

chili, vegetarian

cilantro

corn

crema

cumin

garlic

huitlacoche

lime

MEXICAN CUISINE

mushrooms

onions

potatoes

quesadillas, e.g., cheese

queso fundido

refried beans

rice

salads

salsas

sauces, e.g., mole

soups, e.g., bean, black bean, garlic, mushroom, tortilla

South American cuisines

Southwestern (U.S.) cuisine

squash, summer

stews

teas, Mexican

tomatillos

tomatoes

tortillas, e.g., corn

zucchini

zucchini blossoms

Flavor Affinities

epazote + chili pepper flakes + lime + zucchini

 

images  ESCAROLE

Season: year-round, esp. summer–autumn

Flavor: bitter, with notes of nuts, and a crisp texture

Volume: moderate–loud

Nutritional profile: 75% carbs / 25% protein

Calories: 10 per 1-cup serving

Techniques: braise, grill, raw, roast, sauté, simmer, steam

Botanical relatives: chicory, endive, frisée, radicchio

almonds

apples

artichokes

BEANS, e.g., borlotti, cannellini, white

beets

bell peppers, e.g., roasted

bread crumbs and croutons

bruschetta

butter

cabbage, e.g., red

capers

carrots

cauliflower

CHEESE, e.g., blue, Fontina, goat, mozzarella, Parmesan, Roquefort

chickpeas

chiles and chile pepper flakes

citrus

crème fraîche

cucumbers

currants

dill

eggs, e.g., frittatas

endive

fennel and fennel seeds

GARLIC

hazelnuts

ITALIAN CUISINE

kamut

leeks

LEMON, e.g., juice

lentils

lettuce, e.g., butter

mint

mushrooms, e.g., porcini

mustard, e.g., Dijon

nutritional yeast

OIL, e.g., nut, OLIVE

olives, e.g., black, green

ONIONS, e.g., white, yellow

oranges and blood oranges

parsley

parsnips

pasta, e.g., fettuccine, orzo, penne, spaghetti

pears

pepper, e.g., black, white

persimmons

pine nuts

pizzas

polenta

pomegranates

potatoes

radicchio

raisins

rice, e.g., Arborio, brown

salads

salt, e.g., kosher, sea

sauces, e.g., pasta

shallots

SOUPS, e.g., escarole, minestrone, potato, white bean

squash, e.g., yellow

stews, e.g., white bean

stock, vegetable

sumac

thyme

tofu

tomatoes and sun-dried tomatoes

vinegar, e.g., apple cider, balsamic, red, sherry, white wine

walnuts

watercress

Flavor Affinities

escarole + bread crumbs + cheese + pasta

escarole + capers + garlic + pine nuts + raisins

escarole + chickpeas + onions

escarole + chickpeas + porcini mushrooms

escarole + chili flakes + garlic + lemon

escarole + garlic + lemon zest + olive oil

escarole + garlic + Parmesan cheese

escarole + garlic + pasta + white beans

escarole + garlic + soups + tomatoes

escarole + goat cheese + sun-dried tomatoes + watercress

escarole + lemon + orange + radishes

escarole + lemon juice + olive oil + Parmesan cheese

 

ETHIOPIAN CUISINE

beans, green

beets

bell pepper, red

berbere

butter, spiced

cabbage

carrots

cloves

eggs, hard-boiled

garlic

ginger

greens, e.g., collard

INJERA

legumes, e.g., chickpeas, lentils, split peas

onions

paprika

peas

potatoes

spices

tibs (i.e., sautés)

turmeric

vegetables, stewed

wats (i.e., stews)

Flavor Affinities

berbere + garlic + onions

 

FALL (see AUTUMN)

 

FARRO (aka EMMER WHEAT)

[FAHR-oh]

Flavor: slightly sweet, with earthy notes of barley and/or nuts, and a chewy texture

Volume: quiet

What it is: whole grain; Note: farro is not the same as spelt, which is typically a very slow-cooking grain.

Gluten-free: no

Nutritional profile: 81% carbs / 12% protein / 7% fat

Calories: 170 per ¼ cup (uncooked)

Protein: 7 grams

Timing: Presoak farro for fastest cooking. Although whole farro is available, most of the farro available in the U.S. is semipearled (semi-perlato or pearled (perlato), i.e., with some or all of the outside husk removed. Whole farro takes longest to cook (45–60 minutes or longer), while pearled farro can cook in as little as half that time. Simmer farro, covered, until tender.

Ratio: 1: 2–3 (1 cup farro to 2–3 cups cooking liquid)

Tip: Add the cooking water from white cannellini beans to give a creamier, starchier texture to “farrotto.”

Flavor Affinities

farro + apple cider vinegar + butternut squash + dried cranberries + olive oil

farro + basil + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + parsley + walnuts

farro + brown sugar + coconut milk + mangoes

farro + chicory + olive oil + pears + sherry vinegar

farro + citrus + ginger

farro + coconut + zucchini

farro + eggplant + tomatoes

farro + feta cheese + mushrooms

farro + garlic + kale

farro + leeks + parsnips

farro + lemon + orange + rosemary

farro + mint + pecorino cheese + vegetable stock

farro + onions + Parmesan cheese + risottos + wild mushrooms

farro + parsley + shallots

farro + peas + quinoa + spinach + zucchini

farro + preserved lemons + radicchio

Farro is my favorite grain because of its nuttiness. I like mixing it into green salads with dried apricots and radishes.”

—CHARLEEN BADMAN, FnB (SCOTTSDALE, AZ)

“I love farro’s nutty flavor and toothy texture, and the sensation of eating farrotto. Farro doesn’t give off starch the same way Arborio rice does, but it still has some of its own sauce like risotto.… You can make a different version each season: Spring calls for lots of peas, spring onions, spinach, and vegetable stock. Summer could be corn with tomatoes. Autumn farroto with butternut squash, kale, and roasted garlic could have Parmesan shaved on top. Winter farrotto could feature wild mushrooms and either vegetable stock or the soaking water from dried porcini.”

—ANNIE SOMERVILLE, GREENS RESTAURANT (SAN FRANCISCO)

Dishes

Farro Salad: Roasted Artichokes, Asparagus, Sweet Peppers, Tomatoes, and White Balsamic Vinegar

—al di la Trattoria (Brooklyn)

Klaas Martens’ Emmer Wheat and Quinoa: Wild Spinach, English Peas, and Zucchini

—Blue Hill (New York City)

Organic Farrotto with Pesto Genovese and Parmigiano Reggiano

—Boulud Sud (New York City)

Farrotto con Piselli e Asparagi: Farro cooked in the style of Risotto, with Fresh Peas, Shaved Asparagus, Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, Butter, and Mint

—Le Verdure (New York City)

Date Farro: Dukkah Spice, Squash, Mint, Pomegranate

—Picholine (New York City)

Zucchini and Farro Risotto: Toasted Grains of Farro simmered in Vegetable Stock and finished with a Coconut-Tofu Herb Cream and Fresh Roasted Diced Zucchini

—Sacred Chow (New York City)

 

images  FENNEL

Season: year-round, esp. autumn–winter

Flavor: sweet, with notes of anise and/or licorice, and a crisp, crunchy texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 85% carbs / 10% protein / 5% fat

Calories: 30 per 1-cup serving (sliced, raw)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake, blanch, boil, braise, fry, grill, mandoline, raw, roast, sauté, shave, simmer, steam, stir-fry

Botanical relatives: anise, caraway, celery, celery root, coriander, dill, parsley, parsley root, parsnips

almonds

anise

apples, e.g., green

artichokes and artichoke hearts

artichokes, Jerusalem

ARUGULA

asparagus

avocado

basil

bay leaf

BEANS, e.g., CANNELLINI, fava, green, WHITE

beets and beet juice

bell peppers, e.g., red, yellow

bread crumbs

butter

capers

carrots

cashews

casseroles

cauliflower

celery

celery root

chard

CHEESE, e.g., blue, feta, GOAT, Gorgonzola, Gouda, Gruyère, manchego, PARMESAN, pecorino, Piave, ricotta, ricotta salata, Swiss

cherries, e.g., dried

chervil

chestnuts

chickpeas

chicory

chiles, e.g., jalapeño; and chili pepper flakes

Chinese cuisine

chives

citrus

clementines

coriander

couscous

cranberries, e.g., dried

cream

cucumbers

curries, curry powder, and curry spices

dill

edamame

eggplant

eggs, e.g., custards, hard-boiled, omelets, quiches

endive

escarole

fennel fronds, fennel pollen, and FENNEL SEEDS

figs

French cuisine

frisée

GARLIC

ginger

grains, e.g., millet, quinoa, spelt

grapefruit

gratins

greens, e.g., mesclun, winter

hazelnuts

honey

Italian cuisine

leeks

LEMON, e.g., juice, zest

lentils

lettuce, e.g., romaine

lime

liqueurs with anise/licorice flavor, such as Pernod, Ricard, sambuca

mâche

mango

Mediterranean cuisines

mint

MUSHROOMS, e.g., porcini, portobello, white, wild

mustard, e.g., Dijon, and mustard seeds

nuts

OIL, e.g., canola, hazelnut, nut, OLIVE, vegetable, walnut

olives, e.g., black, green, Italian

ONIONS, e.g., cippolini, red, spring

ORANGE, e.g., juice, zest

orange, blood

oregano

palm, hearts of

parsley

pasta, e.g., linguini, orecchiette, orzo

peaches

pears

pecans

pepper, e.g., black, white

Pernod

pistachios

pizza

pomegranates

potatoes

pumpkin seeds

radicchio

radishes

relishes

rice and wild rice

risottos

saffron

sage

SALADS, e.g., fennel, grain, green, tomato

salt, e.g., kosher, sea

sauces, e.g., tomato

scallions

sesame seeds, white

shallots

slaws

snap peas

soufflés

SOUPS, e.g., fennel, potato, tomato, vegetable

soy sauce

squash, e.g., spaghetti, summer, winter

star anise

stews, e.g., vegetable

stir-fries

stock, e.g., fennel, vegetable

stuffings

tamari

tarragon

thyme

TOMATOES and tomato sauce

turnips

vanilla

verjus

vermouth

VINEGAR, e.g., balsamic, champagne, cider, raspberry, sherry, white wine

WALNUTS

watercress

wine, dry white

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

FENNEL + ACID (e.g., orange juice, vinegar) + BEETS

fennel + almonds + avocados + mesclun greens

fennel + arugula + grapefruit + hazelnuts

fennel + avocados + citrus + mâche + olives

fennel + beets + Belgian endive

fennel + blood oranges + romaine

fennel + cashews + oranges + vanilla

FENNEL + CHEESE (e.g., Gouda, Parmesan, ricotta) + NUTS (e.g., almonds, walnuts) + TREE FRUITS (e.g., apples, pears)

fennel + cranberries + nuts + salads + wild rice

fennel + cucumbers + mustard + thyme

fennel + endive + pears

fennel + escarole + olives + ricotta salata cheese

fennel + escarole + oranges

fennel + fennel seeds + garlic + olive oil + thyme

fennel + fennel seeds + lemon juice + olive oil

fennel + feta cheese + lemon + parsley

fennel + garlic + olives + Parmesan cheese + tomatoes

fennel + garlic + potatoes

fennel + greens + Gruyère cheese + mushrooms

fennel + lemon + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + parsley + salads

fennel + mushrooms + Parmesan cheese

fennel + olives + oranges

FENNEL + ORANGES + NUTS (e.g., pecans, walnuts)

fennel + oranges + red onions + white beans

fennel + Parmesan cheese + risotto + tomatoes

Dishes

Mushroom, Sausage, and Fennel Scramble: Tofu Scramble, sautéed with Seitan Sausage, Portobello Mushrooms, Leeks, Fennel, and Fresh Herbs, topped with Roasted Red Pepper Sour Cream

—Blossoming Lotus (Portland, OR)

Arugula Fennel Salad: Arugula, Heart of Palm, Fennel, Grapefruit, Sea Salt

—The Butcher’s Daughter (New York City)

Homemade Fettuccine: Caramelized Fennel, Roasted Beets, Goat Cheese, Hazelnut, Bread Crumbs

—Café Boulud (New York City)

Creamy Fennel Soup with Poached d’Anjou Pear, Shaved Almonds, Fines Herbes

—Green Zebra (Chicago)

Salad of K. K. Haspel’s Bio-Dynamic Greens with Fennel and Radishes, tossed in Shallot-Dijon Mustard Vinaigrette

—North Fork Table &Inn (Southold, NY)

Fennel Confit: Romesco Mousse, Baby Leeks, Pimenton de la Vera

—Picholine (New York City)

 

FENNEL FRONDS (or LEAVES)

Flavor: notes of anise/licorice

Volume: quiet

Techniques: garnish (esp. fennel dishes), raw

beans

cabbage

cheese, e.g., Parmesan

citrus

cocktails, e.g., vodka-based

eggs and egg dishes

fennel

Italian cuisine

lemon

Mediterranean cuisines

oil

onions, e.g., red

pastas

“pestos” (+ garlic + olive oil + Parmesan cheese + pine nuts)

rice

risottos

salad dressings, e.g., citrus vinaigrettes

salads, e.g., carrot, citrus, fennel, green

salsas

sausages, vegetarian

soups, e.g., barley, cucumber

Flavor Affinities

fennel fronds + avocado + fennel + grapefruit + salads

 

FENNEL POLLEN

Season: spring–summer

Flavor: bitter/sweet/umami; aromatic, with pungent notes of anise, citrus, fennel, herbs, honey, and/or licorice

Volume: quiet–moderate/loud

Tip: Use to finish a dish.

apricots

asparagus

baked goods, e.g., cakes, cookies

carrots

cheese, e.g., Monterey Jack, ricotta

chocolate

cinnamon

citrus

cream and crème fraîche

eggplant

fennel and fennel seeds

garlic

(Central and Northern) Italian cuisine

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

mushrooms

nuts, e.g., almonds, pistachios

oatmeal

orange

pastas, e.g., ravioli

pepper, black

polentas

potatoes

rice

risottos

salads

salt, e.g., sea

tomatoes and tomato sauce

vegetables, e.g., roasted, spring

yogurt

 

 

images  FENUGREEK

Flavor: bitter/sweet; aromatic, with pungent and/or savory notes of burnt sugar, caramel, celery, chocolate, coffee, and/or maple syrup

Volume: quiet/moderate (leaves)–moderate/loud (seeds)

What it is: used as an herb (dried or fresh leaves), a spice (seeds), and as a vegetable (fresh)

Tips: Toast fenugreek seeds to bring out their flavor, which resembles maple syrup. (Indeed, fenugreek is used in making artificial maple syrup.) Long cooking (e.g., simmering) will quiet their flavor. Sprouted fenugreek seeds can be used in salads.

Botanical relatives: clover, peas

Flavor Affinities

fenugreek seeds + chiles + cilantro + garlic + tomatoes

fenugreek seeds + cumin + garlic + ginger + lentils + turmeric

 

images  FIDDLEHEAD FERNS

Season: spring

Flavor: bitter, with notes of artichokes, asparagus, green beans, and/or mushrooms, and a crunchy texture

Volume: moderate–loud

Nutritional profile: 57% carbs / 33% protein / 10% fat

Calories: 10 per 1-ounce serving (raw)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: blanch, boil (5+ minutes), braise, pickle, poach, puree, sauté, steam (Note: never raw)

almonds

arugula

asparagus

butter and brown butter

cheese, e.g., Comté, goat, Gruyère, Parmesan

chiles, e.g., green

chives

coriander

cream

cumin

custards

eggs, e.g., hard-boiled, quiches

fenugreek seeds

garlic

ginger

leeks

lemon

marjoram

milk

miso

MUSHROOMS, e.g., chanterelle, maitake, morel, wild

mustard

nettles

noodles, soba

nutmeg

oil, e.g., hazelnut, nut, olive

onions, e.g., green, red

oregano

paprika

parsley

pastas

peas

pepper, black

“pestos” (e.g., fiddleheads + almonds + olive oil + Parmesan)

ponzu sauce

potatoes, e.g., new

rice, wild

risottos

salads, e.g., warm

salt

sauces, e.g., cheese, cream, hollandaise

savory

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

shallots

soufflés

soups

soy sauce

squash, summer

stock, vegetable

turmeric

vinaigrette

vinegar, e.g., apple cider, balsamic, sherry

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

fiddlehead ferns + butter + herbs + morel mushrooms + ramps

fiddlehead ferns + butter + lemon

fiddlehead ferns + chanterelle mushrooms + risotto

fiddlehead ferns + garlic + marjoram

fiddlehead ferns + garlic + olive oil + parsley

fiddlehead ferns + mustard + olive oil

fiddlehead ferns + sesame oil + sesame seeds + soy sauce

 

images  FIGS (see also FIGS, DRIED)

Season: summer–autumn

Flavor: sweet, with astringent notes, and a soft texture when ripe (studded with tiny, crunchy seeds)

Volume: quiet–moderate

Nutritional profile: 94% carbs (high in sugar) / 3% fat / 3% protein

Calories: 50 per large fig (raw)

Techniques: bake, broil, caramelize, deep-fry, grill, raw, roast, sauté, simmer

Flavor Affinities

figs + almonds + anise

figs + almonds + pears + red wine

figs + anise + cardamom + pistachios + yogurt

figs + apples + honey

figs + apples + pecans

figs + arugula + basil + cheese + honey

figs + arugula + chèvre cheese

figs + arugula + feta cheese

figs + arugula + walnuts

figs + balsamic vinegar + cheese

figs + balsamic vinegar + olive oil

figs + balsamic vinegar + pistachios

figs + basil + goat cheese + pomegranate seeds

figs + basil + mozzarella cheese

figs + black pepper + cheese + honey

FIGS + CHEESE (e.g., blue, burrata, feta, goat, Gorgonzola, mascarpone, ricotta) + NUTS (e.g., almonds, pecans, pistachios, walnuts)

figs + cinnamon + honey + vanilla

figs + cream cheese + honey + mint + ricotta

figs + goat cheese + thyme

figs + Gorgonzola cheese + (caramelized) onions

figs + honey + nuts + ricotta

figs + honey + pecans

figs + honey + port + rosemary

figs + honey + raspberries

figs + honey + vanilla + wine

figs + honey + walnuts + yogurt

figs + melon + mint

figs + melon + orange

Dishes

Roasted Hamada Farm Figs and Buratta on Grilled Walnut Levain with Arugula and Red Endive Salad

—Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

Honey-Grilled Figs with Sweetened Ricotta

—Telepan (New York City)

 

images  FIGS, DRIED

Flavor: sweet, with notes of honey, nuts, and/or raisins, and a soft, chewy texture studded by tiny crunchy seeds

Volume: moderate

Techniques: as is, stew

almonds

anise seeds

apples

baked goods, e.g., cakes, muffins, quick breads

bananas

brandy

cardamom

cheese, e.g., blue, cream, feta, goat, Gorgonzola, manchego, Parmesan, ricotta

chestnuts

cinnamon

coconut

cranberries

dates

desserts

granola

honey

jams

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

NUTS, e.g., almonds, macadamia, pecans, walnuts

oats and oatmeal

olives

orange, e.g., juice, zest

pears

pecans

pistachios

pumpkin seeds

raisins

snacks

stews

tagines

vinegar, e.g., balsamic

WALNUTS

wine, e.g., red, sweet

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

dried figs + almonds + cream cheese

dried figs + bananas + coconut

dried figs + chestnuts + orange

dried figs + goat cheese + salad greens + walnuts

dried figs + honey + nuts

dried figs + honey + orange + yogurt

 

FIVE-SPICE POWDER

Flavor: sweet

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: A spice blend made of cinnamon + cloves + fennel seeds + star anise + Szechuan peppercorns

braised dishes

Chinese cuisine

garlic

ginger

marinades

nuts, e.g. almonds, pistachios, walnuts

rice

roasted dishes

sauces

seeds, e.g., pumpkin

stews

stir-fries

tofu

 

FLAXSEED OIL (see OIL, FLAXSEED)

 

Dishes

Pizza: Buckwheat, Sweet Potato, and Flaxseed Crust topped with Red Bell Peppers, Olives, Onions, Basil, Choice of Marinara Sauce or Pesto

—Peacefood Café (New York City)

 

FLOUR, RICE

“I like to use rice flour—grinding in some Arborio rice for texture, and some sesame or coriander seeds for texture and flavor—as a crust for fried mushrooms. Just dip the mushrooms into soy milk, or rice milk with a little Dijon mustard added for viscosity, and then into the rice flour mixture before frying.”

—ERIC TUCKER, MILLENNIUM (SAN FRANCISCO)

 

FLOUR, SPELT

“Because spelt flour doesn’t have as much gluten as wheat flour, muffins made with it don’t rise as high, so instead of filling muffin tins two-thirds full, we fill them three-quarters full.”

—MARLENE TOLMAN, POMEGRANATE CAFÉ (PHOENIX, AZ)

“I think spelt flour pizza has more flavor than white flour pizza. It’s really good served with pears and ricotta.”

—MAKINI HOWELL, PLUM BISTRO (SEATTLE)

 

FLOUR, SPROUTED

Brands: Essential Eating, To Your Health

Diane Forley of Flourish Baking Company

As a chef, my interest is in whole-plant cooking—from root to fruit—as integral to a more healthful and enjoyable way of living. But food has to first satisfy taste, so the challenge is always to find the right combination of ingredients and balance of flavors and textures. I have been experimenting with grains and beans in nontraditional ways: folded into muffins, added to savory custards, and pulverized into tart crusts. This also allows me to bring energy-rich plant foods into our products replacing white flours and sugars, which are devoid of nutrition. Sprouted-grain flours are especially interesting to me because they offer not only great flavor, but also an energy-rich ingredient for baked goods.

Because my kitchen is focused on developing savory baked items, I try to create the flavors first and then select how they are best presented.

Here are some combos:

Savory:

  • sprouted spelt flour muffin with asparagus, sorrel, pumpkin seed, and parmesan
  • sprouted corn flour muffin with pickled beet, macadamia nut, and goat cheese
  • millet flour biscuit with roasted chickpeas, sumac, and sesame seed
  • savory rice pudding with confit of fennel, carrot, and tarragon
  • quinoa pudding with broccoli and cheddar

Fruit:

  • coconut flour scone with wild blueberries, ginger root, and hempseed
  • wild rice and quinoa muffin with bananas, dried cranberries, and walnuts
  • chocolate cherry scone with vanilla bean kefir and almonds
  • strawberry jam muffin with pomegranate molasses, Meyer lemon, and chia seed

 

FLOWERS, EDIBLE

While several varieties of flowers are edible—such as (sweet licorice) anise hyssop, (cucumber-like, sweet honey-like) borage, carnations, chicory, (garlicy, oniony) chives, chrysanthemums, daisies, day lilies, (herbal, pungent, sweet) lavender, (bitter, floral, sour) marigolds, (honey, peppery) nasturtiums, (minty) pansies, and (sweet) violets—most do not add much flavor of their own. Rather, they’re mostly decorative.

“We grow edible flowers on our roof at Mélisse.… Pollen is what gives most edible flowers their sweet, individual flavors.… Nasturtiums are stronger flavored than most edible flowers—they have a very strong, floral, peppery, spicy flavor. Yellow wood sorrel is also strongly sour.”

—JOSIAH CITRIN, MÉLISSE (SANTA MONICA)

 

FREEKEH (aka FRIKEH)

[FREE-kah]

Flavor: earthy notes of grass, meat, nuts, and/or smoke, with a chewy texture

Volume: moderate

What it is: young green wheat that has been set on fire before harvesting; i.e., grain

Techniques: simmer (20–30 minutes)

Ratio: 1: 1½–2 (1 cup freekeh to 1½–2 cups cooking liquid)

Tip: To bring out its nuttiness, toast in a pan before cooking.

Possible substitute: bulgur + drops of liquid smoke

(North) African cuisines

allspice

apples

apricots, dried

asparagus

baked goods, e.g., breads

beans, e.g., adzuki, black, soy

beets

bell peppers, e.g., red

bread crumbs, e.g., panko

butter

carrots

cayenne

celery

cereals, hot breakfast

cheese, e.g., burrata, feta, Parmesan

chickpeas

chiles, e.g., green

cilantro

cinnamon

cloves

coriander

cucumbers

cumin

eggplant

eggs

fruit, dried, e.g., apricots, cranberries, plums, raisins

GARLIC

grains, other, e.g., oats

honey

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lentils

“meatballs”

Mediterranean cuisines

Middle Eastern cuisines

mint

mushrooms, e.g., button, enoki, oyster, shiitake

North African cuisines

nutmeg

nuts, e.g., cashews, hazelnuts, walnuts

oil, e.g., nut, olive

olives, e.g., kalamata

ONIONS, e.g., red

oregano

paprika, e.g., hot, sweet

parsley

pepper, black

PILAFS

pine nuts

pistachios

pomegranate seeds

“risottos”

saffron

salads, e.g., grain

salt, sea

seeds, e.g., pumpkin, sesame, sunflower

shallots

soups

squash, butternut

stews

stock, e.g., mushroom, vegetable

stuffings

sweet potatoes

tabbouleh

thyme

tomatoes and tomato paste

tomatoes, sun-dried

veggie burgers

walnuts

yogurt

zucchini

“I’ve cooked freekeh, then dehydrated and fried it, so that it turns crispy like Rice Krispies, and paired it with a creamy burrata cheese.”

—JON DUBOIS, GREEN ZEBRA (CHICAGO)

 

FRENCH CUISINE

apples

apricots

butter

cassoulets, vegetarian

cheese

cream

eggs, e.g., omelets

garlic

gratins

herbs, e.g., fines herbes

mirepoix (carrots + celery + onions)

mustard, e.g., Dijon

onions

parsley

pastries

pears

potatoes

rémoulades, e.g., celery root

salads, e.g., lentil

SAUCES

sautéed dishes

shallots

spirits

stocks

tarragon

tarts, e.g., savory (e.g., onion, zucchini), sweet (e.g., fruit)

thyme

tomatoes

truffles, e.g., black

vegetables, root

vinaigrettes

vinegars, wine, e.g., red, white

wheat, esp. as flour

WINE

zucchini

“When I was twenty-six, I went to France for the first time. My takeaway was that the French love vegetables! It was simple food with a tremendous impact. I also learned that they love to use pressure cookers to cook their vegetables. It makes the vegetables turn into a soft state, sort of a melting texture. The aromas from this technique are like nothing else.… During my time in France, it felt like every meal had a tart! Or if Americans are thought to always be eating hot dogs and hamburgers, I felt the same could be said about the French and their tarts. In France, lunch is the big meal of the day, so dinner is often lighter—such as a zucchini tart with custard and curry spices, served with a salad. I learned from a French woman to make my tart dough with half-butter, half-margarine, which made a crisper tart shell, but now I use 100 percent Earth Balance for our vegan tart.”

—KEN LARSEN, TABLE VERTE, NEW YORK CITY’S FIRST FRENCH VEGETARIAN BISTRO

 

FRESHNESS

Season: spring–summer

Tips: Listed herbs are always used fresh (with little or no cooking), and add a note of freshness to a dish. Other listed flavors add a bright note to a dish. For the opposite, see the entry SLOW-COOKED.

basil

chives

cilantro

citrus

dill

fennel pollen

mint

tarragon

 

Dishes

Roasted Beet and Frisée Salad with Fennel, Grapefruit, Sunflower Seed Brittle, Goat’s Cheese, White Balsamic

—Mayflower Inn & Spa (Washington, CT)

Fricassee Vegetables with Fromage Blanc, Jumbo Asparagus, Frisée Salad

—Mayflower Inn & Spa (Washington, CT)

 

FROMAGE BLANC

Flavor: sour, with creamy notes, and a smooth and firm yet spreadable texture (somewhat similar to ricotta)

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: made from milk, “France’s answer to yogurt”

What’s healthful about it: low in fat or fat-free

Techniques: whip

Possible substitutes: cream cheese, crème fraîche (which is made from cream), pureed fresh ricotta, sour cream, yogurt

apricots

asparagus

bananas

basil

berries, e.g., blueberries, strawberries

blintzes

blueberries

breads

cheese, cream

cheesecakes

chives

citrus, e.g., juice, zest

crêpes

eggs, e.g., frittatas

desserts

dips

figs

fines herbes

French cuisine

fruit and fruit jams and preserves

garlic

granola

herbs

honey

ice cream

lavender

leeks

maple syrup

mustard, e.g., Dijon

nectarines

nuts

onions, e.g., spring

parsley

peaches

pistachios

pizzas

potatoes

salads, e.g., fruit

sandwiches

sorbets

soups, e.g., carrot

spreads

strawberries

sugar

tarragon

tomatoes

vanilla

Flavor Affinities

fromage blanc + eggs + fines herbes + omelets

fromage blanc + garlic + herbs

fromage blanc + granola + honey

 

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES, FROZEN

Tip: Frozen fruits and vegetables are frequently more nutritious than those purchased fresh that are a few days old.