images  GRITS

What it is: grain—the coarsest grind of dried corn

Nutritional profile: 89% carbs / 8% protein / 3% fat

Calories: 145 per 1-cup serving (cooked with water)

Protein: 3 grams

Techniques: bake, boil (about 15–40 minutes), simmer

Tip: Look for coarse stone-ground grits, which contain bran and germ.

butter

cayenne

cereals, hot breakfast

chard

cheese, e.g., cheddar, Parmesan, pecorino, ricotta salata

chiles, e.g., green; chili pepper flakes and chili pepper sauce

cilantro

corn

cream

eggs

fruit

garlic

greens, e.g., collard

kale

maple syrup

mascarpone

milk

molasses

nutmeg

oil, olive

onions, e.g., sweet, yellow

paprika

pepper, e.g., black

polenta

porridges

puddings

salt, e.g., kosher, sea

scallions

seeds, sunflower

Southern (U.S.) cuisine

stock, e.g., corn, vegetable

vinegar, e.g., apple cider

watercress

wine, e.g., dry white

“Gary Jones of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons served a risotto ravioli that was surprisingly delicious—and inspired me to fill my tortellini with grits.”

—MARK LEVY, THE POINT (SARANAC LAKE, NY)

Dishes

Tortellini of Carolina Gold Rice Grits, Fall Vegetables, and Butternut Butter Sauce

—The Point (Saranac Lake, NY)

 

images  GUAVA, GUAVA JUICE (or images  NECTAR), and GUAVA PASTE

Season: summer–autumn

Flavor: sweet/sour, with floral and fruity notes (apple, pear, pineapple, and/or strawberry)

Volume: quiet (e.g., fresh)–moderate (e.g., sweet guava paste)

Nutritional profile: 75% carbs / 13% protein / 12% fat

Calories: 115 per 1-cup serving (raw)

Protein: 4 grams

Techniques: bake, juice, poach, raw

apples

baked goods, e.g., cakes, muffins, tarts

BANANAS

beverages, e.g., cocktails, juices

cashews

CHEESE, e.g., cream, farmer’s, goat, manchego, queso blanco

chili pepper sauce

chocolate, e.g., white

chutneys

cinnamon

citrus, e.g., lemon, lime, orange

cloves

coconut, coconut cream, and coconut milk

compotes

cream

desserts, e.g., cakes, cheesecakes

fruits, other tropical, e.g., kiwi, mango, papaya, pineapple, star fruit

ginger

greens, e.g., salad

hazelnuts

honey

Indian cuisine

jams and preserves

lemon

lime, e.g., zest

mangoes

mascarpone

mustard

nutmeg

nuts, e.g., cashews, macadamia

oil, olive

onions

orange

papayas

pears, e.g., Asian

phyllo dough

pineapple

plums

quince

raisins

rum

salads, e.g., fruit

sauces

smoothies

sorbets

South American cuisine

soy sauce

stock, vegetable

strawberries

sugar, e.g., brown

tamales

vanilla

vinegar, e.g., balsamic

wine, e.g., sparkling

yogurt, e.g., low-fat

Flavor Affinities

guava + cream cheese + sugar + tamales

 

images  HAZELNUTS (aka FILBERTS)

Flavor: slightly salty/sweet, with notes of butter (esp. when roasted), coconut, cream, grass (e.g., when raw), and/or smoke (e.g., when roasted), and a crisp, rich texture

Volume: quieter (e.g., raw)–louder (e.g., roasted)

Nutritional profile: 81% fat / 11% carbs / 8% protein

Calories: 360 per ½ cup (chopped)

Protein: 8 grams

Techniques: roast (275°F for 20–30 minutes), toast (350°F for 5 minutes)

almonds

apples

apricots, e.g., dried

artichokes

arugula

asparagus

BAKED GOODS, e.g., biscotti, cakes, cookies, pies

bananas

beans, e.g., green

beets

berries, e.g., blackberries, blueberries

Brussels sprouts

caramel

cauliflower

celery root

cereals, hot breakfast

CHEESE, e.g., blue, feta, goat, Gorgonzola, Gruyère, manchego, ricotta, Taleggio

cherries

CHOCOLATE, e.g., dark, white

chutneys

cinnamon

coffee and espresso

couscous

cranberries

cream and ice cream

desserts, e.g., crisps

dukkah

eggplant

endive

fennel

figs

frisée

fruits, e.g., dried, fresh

granola

grapes

greens, bitter, e.g., beet

greens, salad, e.g., mesclun

honey, e.g., chestnut

ice cream

kale

leeks

lentils

lettuce

liqueurs, e.g., almond

loaves

maple syrup

meringue

mint

mushrooms, e.g., morel, wild

oil, e.g., hazelnut, orange

oranges, e.g., mandarin, e.g., juice, zest

parsley

passion fruit

pastas

pâtés

peaches

PEARS

persimmons

pesto

pineapple

plums, dried

puddings

pumpkin

quinoa

radicchio

raisins

raspberries

rhubarb

risottos

rosemary

SALADS, e.g., fruit, green, spinach, tricolore

sauces, e.g., romesco

soups

Spanish cuisine

spinach

squash, winter, e.g., acorn, butternut

strawberries

stuffings

sugar, e.g., brown

sweet potatoes

toffee

tomatoes, sun-dried

trail bars

vanilla

veggie burgers

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, champagne, sherry, white wine

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

hazelnuts + apples + Brussels sprouts

hazelnuts + arugula + blue cheese + endive + radicchio

hazelnuts + asparagus + beets

hazelnuts + bananas + chocolate

hazelnuts + blue cheese + peaches

hazelnuts + brown sugar + cinnamon + pears

hazelnuts + caramel + dried apricots + chocolate

hazelnuts + feta cheese + grapes + salad greens

hazelnuts + figs + goat or ricotta cheese

hazelnuts + garlic + kale + sun-dried tomatoes

hazelnuts + goat cheese + pears

hazelnuts + goat cheese + raisins + spinach

hazelnuts + hazelnut oil + mandarin oranges + salad greens + vinegar

hazelnuts + mushrooms + parsley

Dishes

Hazelnut Caramel Bombe: Dark Chocolate Mousse, Hazelnut Praline, Chocolate Cake, and Chocolate Glaze

—Portobello (Portland, OR)

 

 

HIZIKI (aka HIJIKI)

[hee-ZEE-kee; hee-JEE-kee]

Flavor: salty, with notes of the earth and/or sea, and a delicate yet firm texture

Volume: moderate–loud

What it is: sea vegetable, with the appearance of dried black threads

Calories: 5 per ½-cup serving

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: sauté, simmer (about 30–40 minutes)

Tips: Its grittiness requires it to be soaked (twice) in cold water for 10 minutes each time before use (discarding the gritty soaking water). Soaking will also tame its saltiness. Also, hiziki will expand fourfold, taking on the appearance of black angel hair pasta.

Flavor Affinities

hiziki + brown rice + carrots + shiitake mushrooms

hiziki + carrots + garlic + ginger + miso + sesame (oil, seeds)

hiziki + dashi + sesame oil + sesame seeds + soy sauce + tofu

hiziki + garlic + ginger

hiziki + ginger + soy sauce

hiziki + herbs + tartar sauce + tofu

hiziki + rice vinegar + sesame (oil, seeds) + soy sauce

hiziki + sesame oil + tamari

Dishes

Cape Cod Cakes: Blend of Hiziki Seaweed, Tofu, and Herbs, served with Tartar Sauce

—V-Note (New York City)

 

images  HOMINY

Flavor: notes of butter and corn, with a chewy texture

Volume: quiet

What it is: dried corn kernels that have had the germ and hull removed

avocado

beans, e.g., Anasazi, pinto, red

bell peppers

carrots

casseroles

celery

cheese, e.g., goat, Monterey Jack, queso fresco

CHILES, e.g., dried red, fresh green, jalapeño; chili pepper sauce and chili powder

cilantro

corn

cumin

garlic

lime

Mexican cuisine

mushrooms, e.g., portobello

Native American cuisine

oil, e.g., olive, sesame, sunflower, vegetable

ONIONS, e.g., white

OREGANO, MEXICAN

pepper, black

POSOLE, vegetarian

pumpkin seeds

radishes

sage

SOUPS

Southwest (U.S.) cuisine

squash, butternut

STEWS

stock, vegetable

thyme

tomatillos

tomatoes

Flavor Affinities

hominy + chiles + cilantro + tomatillos

hominy + chiles + garlic + lime

hominy + chiles + onions + oregano

 

images  HONEY—IN GENERAL

Flavor: sweet to very sweet, with astringent notes, and a thick, syrupy texture

Volume: quieter (e.g., acacia < clover)–louder (e.g., wildflower < buckwheat)

Nutritional profile: 100% carbs

Calories: 65 per tablespoon

Techniques: raw

Tip: As a general rule, the darker the color of the honey, the greater its nutritional value (e.g., antioxidants, minerals, vitamins).

Possible substitutes: agave nectar, brown rice syrup, maple syrup, molasses

Flavor Affinities

honey + almond + ricotta

honey + figs + ricotta

honey + ginger + lemon/lime

 

HONEY, VEGAN (see also HONEY)

Flavor: sweet, with notes of apples or apple blossoms, and the texture of honey

What it is: vegan honey substitute made from apples

Tip: Use 50/50 with agave nectar.

Possible substitutes: agave nectar, maple syrup

Brand: Bee Free Honee

“Bee-free vegan honey made from a reduction of apples is one of the most amazing products I’ve ever come across. It looks and tastes just like regular honey!”

—SHAWAIN WHYTE, CAFÉ BLOSSOM (NEW YORK CITY)

 

HORSERADISH— images  PREPARED or images  FRESH

Season: summer–autumn

Flavor: bitter/very hot, with pungent notes of mustard and/or pepper

Volume: very loud

Techniques: grate, shred

Tips: Add just before serving. Opt for white (not pink) horseradish.

Botanical relatives: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, kale, kohlrabi, land cress, mustard, radishes, rutabagas, turnips, watercress

Flavor Affinities

horseradish + apples + carrots

horseradish + beets + lemon

horseradish + beets + rosemary + yogurt

horseradish + bitter greens (e.g., arugula, sorrel) + potatoes

horseradish + carrots + parsnips + potatoes

horseradish + celery + tomato juice

horseradish + chives + yogurt

horseradish + vinegar + yogurt

 

HUCKLEBERRIES

Season: summer

Flavor: sour/sweet, with notes of blueberries

Volume: moderate–loud

Nutritional profile: 94% carbs / 4% protein / 2% fat

Calories: 10 per 1-ounce serving (raw)

Possible substitute: blueberries

agave nectar

apples

bananas

buttermilk

cheese, cream, e.g., low-fat

cheesecake

cinnamon

coulis

crème fraîche

desserts, e.g., cobblers, crisps, custards, galettes, ice creams, panna cottas, pastries, pies, soufflés, tarts

graham crackers

jams

lemons, e.g., Meyer

lime, e.g., juice

orange

pancakes, e.g., buckwheat

pears

pine nuts

puddings, e.g., bread

sugar

walnuts

Dishes

Golden Russet Pear Tart with Huckleberries and Crème Fraîche

—Chez Panisse (Berkeley, CA)

Huckleberry Pear Crisp with Walnut Streusel and Cinnamon Soy Gelato

—Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

Apple Huckleberry Galette with Huckleberry Compote and Crème Fraîche Ice Cream

—Greens Restaurant (San Francisco)

Banana and Huckleberry “Twinkie”: Angel Food “Génoise,” Banana Custard, Huckleberry Jam, and Banana-Crème Fraîche Sherbet

—Per Se (New York City)

Huckleberry “Cheesecake”: Huckleberry Gelée and Graham Cracker Crumble

—Picholine (New York City)

 

Dishes

Huitlacoche y Hongos: Just-Made Tortillas with Organic Otter Creek Cheddar, Nichols Farm Huitlacoche, Local Woodland Mushrooms, and Herby Roasted Tomatillo Salsa

—Topolobampo (Chicago)

 

INDIAN CUISINE

Tip: India is considered the world’s leading country for vegetarianism, which is espoused by an estimated 20–42 percent of its population.

allspice

almonds

anise seeds

beans

breads, esp. in northern India

cardamom

cashews

cassia (or cinnamon)

cauliflower

cayenne

cheese, e.g., paneer

chickpeas

chiles

cilantro, esp. in southern India

cinnamon

cloves

coconut, esp. in desserts and southern India

coriander

cumin, esp. in northern India

CURRIES

curry leaves, curry powder, and curry spices

dosas

eggplant

fennel seeds

fenugreek

garam masala (Indian spice blend that often includes bay leaf, black pepper, cardamom, cassia/ cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, fennel, and/or nutmeg)

garlic, esp. in northern India

ghee (clarified butter)

ginger, esp. in northern India

herbs

lentils

mint

mustard seeds, esp. in southern India

nutmeg

oil, e.g., canola, grapeseed

onions

paprika

peas

pepper, e.g., black

pistachios, esp. in desserts

poppy seeds

potatoes

rice, basmati, esp. in southern India

saffron

sage

sauces, e.g., raita

SPICES

spinach

star anise

sugar, palm

tamarind, esp. in southern India

tomatoes

turmeric

vegetables, esp. in southern India

wheat, esp. in northern India

yogurt

 

INDONESIAN CUISINE

chiles

coconut

coriander

garlic

grilled dishes

lemongrass

molasses

noodles

peanuts and peanut sauces

pepper

rice

satays, i.e., skewers

seitan

soy sauce

spices, e.g., cloves, nutmeg, pepper

stir-fries

sugar, e.g., brown

tamarind

tempeh

vegetables

Flavor Affinities

chiles + garlic + lime + peanuts + soy sauce + sugar

 

“We use Irish moss as a thickener more than agar-agar. It provides a better, creamier consistency, it sets beautifully, plus it’s higher in nutritional value.”

—CASSIE AND MARLENE TOLMAN, POMEGRANATE CAFÉ (PHOENIX, AZ)

 

ISRAELI CUISINE (see also MEDITERRANEAN CUISINES)

beans, e.g., fava

beets

bell peppers, red

bread, e.g., pita

cheese, e.g., feta

chickpeas, e.g. hummus

couscous, Israeli

dips

eggplant, e.g. baba ghanoush

falafel

harissa

honey

salads, e.g., cucumber, tabbouleh, tomato

sandwiches, e.g., sabich (eggplant + hard-boiled egg + hummus), seitan shawarma

tahini

tomatoes

yogurt, e.g., strained (aka labneh)

za’atar

 

ITALIAN CUISINE, NORTHERN

asparagus

basil

beans

butter

cheeses, e.g., Asiago, Fontina, Gorgonzola, Parmesan, Taleggio

cream and cream-based sauces

hazelnuts

lemon, e.g., juice

mascarpone

nuts

pasta, esp. fresh, richer egg-based or ribbon-shaped (e.g., fettuccine, linguini, ravioli), often combined with other starches, such as beans

pesto

pine nuts

polenta

potatoes

rice, e.g., Arborio, carnaroli; and risottos

rosemary

sage

sauces, e.g., cream-based

truffles, white

vinegar, esp. balsamic, wine

wine, e.g., Marsala, red, white

 

ITALIAN CUISINE, SOUTHERN

artichokes

basil

bell peppers

cheese, e.g., mozzarella, ricotta

chiles and chili pepper flakes

cinnamon

eggplant

fennel

garlic

herbs

marjoram

nutmeg

oil, olive

olives

oregano

pasta, esp. dried, tube-shaped, and served with tomato sauce

pizza, e.g., Neopolitan

raisins

sauces, e.g., red tomato-based

tomatoes and tomato sauce

wine

zucchini

 

images  JACKFRUIT, UNRIPE GREEN

Season: summer

Flavor: neutral, with faint notes of apple, banana, lychee, mango, melon (e.g., cantaloupe), and/or pineapple; and the chewy, flaky, juicy, or meaty texture of dry pineapple, shredded chicken, or pulled pork

Volume: quiet

What it is: tropical fruit

Nutritional profile: 92% carbs / 5% protein / 3% fat

Calories: 155 per 1-cup serving (sliced, raw)

Protein: 2 grams

Technique: marinate

Tips: Look in Asian or Indian markets for unripe (aka green or young) jackfruit in cans (packed in brine, not sweet syrup!) or frozen (packed in brine). Chef Susan Feniger prefers using shredded and cooked jackfruit to processed faux meats in Street’s vegan dishes such as baos and tacos. She has found that jackfruit takes on whatever flavors it’s cooked with and even fools meat eaters. You’ll typically want to rinse, drain, and shred before using; alternatively, cut into bite-sized triangles, as you would pineapple. Jackfruit is the world’s largest tree fruit and can grow up to three feet long. Keep an eye out for products from Annie Ryu’s Global Village Fruits.

Flavor Affinities

jackfruit + barbecue sauce + liquid smoke + “pulled pork”

jackfruit + bell peppers + coconut milk + curries + curry paste + garlic + lemongrass

jackfruit + cilantro + onions + salsa + tacos + tortillas

jackfruit + coriander + cumin + curries + tomatoes + turmeric

jackfruit + coriander + gyros + lemon + oregano + pita bread + soy sauce + tzatziki

image

“In eastern India, jackfruit is eaten ripe as a fruit, but in northern India it’s more often eaten green [i.e., unripe] as a vegetable, where it’s added to biryani.”

—HEMANT MATHUR, TULSI (NEW YORK CITY)

Dishes

Dum Biryani: A time-honored Mughal Rice Dish, slowly baked in a Handi Pot sealed with Naan Dough: Jackfruit, Potatoes, and whole Spices

—Tulsi (New York City)

 

JAGGERY

Flavor: sweet; aromatic, with notes of butter, caramel, maple syrup, and/or molasses

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: unrefined sugar made from cane or palm

Possible substitute: dark brown sugar

almonds

bananas

beverages, e.g., coffee, tea

breads

candies

cardamom

cashews

chickpeas

coconut milk

desserts, e.g., puddings

Indian cuisine

milk

peanuts

raisins

rice

syrups

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

jaggery + cardamom + cashews + coconut milk + raisins

 

 

JAPANESE CUISINE

broccoli

broiled dishes

burdock root

carrots

chiles

daikon

DASHI

edamame

eggplant, Japanese

garlic

ginger

grilled dishes

gyoza

kelp

kinpira

kombu

mirin, i.e., rice wine

miso

MUSHROOMS, e.g., maitake, oyster, shiitake

noodles, Asian, e.g., ramen, soba

udon nori rolls, e.g., avocado, cucumber

pickled dishes

pineapple

poached dishes

RICE, e.g., black, brown, sushi

sauces, e.g., ponzu, teriyaki

scallions

sea vegetables, e.g., kelp, nori

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

soups, e.g., miso

*SOY SAUCE

squash

steamed dishes

sweet potatoes

tea, e.g., green

tempura

vinegar, rice wine

wasabi

wine, rice, e.g., sake

yuzu

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

garlic + ginger + soy sauce

ginger + sake + soy sauce

ginger + scallions + soy sauce

image

 

images  JÍCAMA

[HEE-kah-mah]

Season: winter–spring

Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of water chestnuts, and crispy/crunchy and juicy texture

Volume: quiet

What it is: root vegetable

Nutritional profile: 93% carbs / 5% protein / 2% fat

Calories: 50 per 1-cup serving (raw, sliced)

Protein: 1 gram

Techniques: bake, boil, braise, fry, raw, sauté, shred, steam, stir-fry

Tips: Peel before using. Slice thinly and serve instead of chips with guacamole, hummus, or other dips.

Botanical relative: sweet potato

Flavor Affinities

jícama + apples + zucchini

jícama + arugula + horseradish + mustard + red onions

jícama + avocado + cilantro + citrus (e.g., grapefruit, orange)

jícama + avocado + citrus (e.g., orange, grapefruit) + radishes

jícama + black beans + cucumbers + mint + rice wine vinegar

jícama + cayenne + cilantro + lime + onions + orange + papaya

jícama + cayenne + greens + lemon + lime + papaya

jícama + chili pepper flakes + lime + peanuts

JÍCAMA + CHILI POWDER + LIME JUICE + SALT

JÍCAMA + CILANTRO + ORANGE

jícama + cucumbers + lime

jícama + grapefruit + pecans + red cabbage + salads

Dishes

Jícama Street Snack: Jícama, Cucumber, Pineapple, Fresh Lime, Crushed Guajillo Chile

—Frontera Grill (Chicago)

 

JUICES (see also SMOOTHIES)

Technique Tips: We love our Champion juicer (as do many of the other experts interviewed for this book) and know others who are happy with their Omega juicers. Diane Forley of Flourish makes juice in her Vitamix, adding a little water and then straining the juice through a nut milk bag—and finds the cleanup even easier than with a juicer.

Flavor Tips: Avoid mixing kale with romaine, which ends up “tasting like mud,” according to NYC’s Blossom owner Pamela Elizabeth. To add a sweet note, mix green juices with agave nectar, beets, coconut water, dates, fruit, honey, or maple syrup.

“My default morning juice is one made from cilantro, fennel, ginger, kale, lemon, pears, and pineapple.”

—MATTHEW KENNEY, M.A.K.E. (SANTA MONICA)

“A dash of lemon juice is the best way to cut the ‘fresh-mown grass’ flavor of some of the stronger green juices. Even better is adding lemon juice, apple juice, and ginger.”

—MARLENE TOLMAN, POMEGRANATE CAFÉ (PHOENIX)

 

JUNIPER BERRIES

Flavor: bitter/sour/sweet; aromatic, with astringent notes of gin, lemon, and/or pine resin

Volume: moderate–loud

Possible substitute: gin

apples

artichokes, Jerusalem

bay leaf

bread

butter

cabbage, e.g., red

caraway seeds

cheese

choucroute

eggs

fennel

garlic

gin

marinades

oil, olive

pastas

pepper, black

pickles

potatoes

rice

rosemary

sage

sauerkraut

squash, winter

stuffings

sweet potatoes

vegetables, root

vinegar

Flavor Affinities

juniper berries + apples + fennel

juniper berries + garlic + potatoes

 

KAFFIR LIME and KAFFIR LIME LEAVES

Flavor: bitter/sour, and aromatic, with astringent or pungent notes of citrus, flowers, and/or lemon; and a chewy texture

Volume: moderate–loud

What it is: Southeast Asian citrus fruit

Technique: stir-fry

Tips: While also used for its juice and zest, this fruit is especially valued for its aromatic leaves.

Possible substitute: lime zest

apples, e.g., juice

Asian cuisines

Balinese cuisine

basil, e.g., Thai

Cambodian cuisine

carrots

chiles (esp. Thai) and chili pepper paste

chili, vegetarian

cilantro

coconut and coconut milk

corn

cucumbers

CURRIES

custards

drinks

fruits, tropical

galangal

garlic

ginger

Indian cuisine

Indonesian cuisine

lemongrass

lime, e.g., juice

Malaysian cuisine

mangoes

marinades

mint

mushrooms

noodles, e.g., Asian

okra

pears, e.g., Asian or prickly

“pestos”

rice

salad dressings

salads, e.g., Thai, tomato

sauces

sesame, e.g., seeds

SOUPS, e.g., coconut, hot-and-sour, Thai

SOUTHEAST ASIAN CUISINES

star anise

stews

stir-fries

stocks, e.g., vegetable

sugar

tamarind

THAI CUISINE

turmeric

vegetables, e.g., green

Flavor Affinities

Kaffir lime leaf + carrots + lemongrass + soups

Kaffir lime leaf + coconut milk + galangal + lemongrass

Kaffir lime leaf + coconut milk + peanuts + tofu

Kaffir lime leaf + ginger + lemongrass + lime

Kaffir lime leaf + rice + turmeric

 

images  KALE

Season: autumn–spring

Flavor: bitter/sweet (esp. in winter), with pungent notes of cabbage, and a rather tough texture

What it is: leafy, green vegetable

Nutritional profile: 72% carbs / 16% protein / 12% fat

Calories: 35 per 1-cup serving (raw, chopped)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: blanch, boil (4–5 minutes), braise, grill, long cooking, marinate, parboil, puree, raw, sauté (about 8 minutes over medium heat), steam (4–5 minutes), stew, stir-fry

Tips: Opt for organic kale. Many kale aficionados prefer the variety known as black kale (aka dinosaur kale or Tuscan kale), for its greater flavor complexity and silky texture. Macerate (and marinate) raw kale in Dijon mustard to flavor it and soften its texture.

Botanical relatives: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, horseradish, kohlrabi, land cress, radishes, rutabagas, turnips, watercress

almonds

anise

apples

arame

arugula

avocados

barley

basil

BEANS, e.g., adzuki, cranberry, green, kidney, mung, red, white

beets

bell peppers, e.g., red, esp. grilled

black-eyed peas

bok choy

bread crumbs, e.g., whole-grain

Brussels sprouts

bulgur

butter, brown

cabbage, e.g., red

capers

caraway seeds

carrots

cashews

casseroles

cauliflower

cayenne

celery

celery root

chard

CHEESE, e.g., cheddar, cottage, feta, goat, Gruyère, mozzarella, PARMESAN, pecorino, provolone, ricotta, ricotta salata, Romano, Swiss, vegan

cherries, dried

chestnuts

chickpeas

CHILES, e.g., chipotle, dried red, poblano, serrano; chili paste, chili pepper flakes, and chili pepper sauce

chips, e.g., dehydrated (not fried)

chives

cilantro

coconut milk

corn

cranberries, dried

cream

cumin

curries

dates

dill

dulse

eggs, e.g., frittatas, hard-boiled, omelets, poached, quiches

escarole

farro

fennel seeds

GARLIC

garlic scapes

ginger

grapefruit

gratins

greens, other, e.g., collard, dandelion, mustard

juices

kombu

leeks

LEMON, e.g., juice, zest

lentils

maple syrup

mint

miso

mizuna

MUSHROOMS, e.g., brown, porcini, portobello, shiitake

mustard, e.g., Dijon

noodles, Asian, e.g., soba, udon

nori

nuts

OIL, e.g., canola, flaxseed, grapeseed, nut, OLIVE, sesame, vegetable

olives, e.g., black

ONIONS, e.g., caramelized,RED, Spanish, spring, white, yellow

oranges, e.g., juice

oregano

papaya, e.g., green

paprika, e.g., smoked

parsley

pastas, e.g., lasagna

peanuts

pecans

pepper, black

pestos

pine nuts

pistachios

pizza

polenta

Portuguese cuisine

POTATOES

purees

quinoa

radicchio

radishes

raisins, e.g., brown, yellow

RICE, e.g., Arborio, brown, wild

risottos

rosemary

SALADS

SALT, e.g., kosher, pink, sea, smoked

savory

scallions

sea vegetables

seeds, e.g., hemp, pumpkin, sesame

sesame, e.g., sauce, seeds

shallots

slaws

smoothies

snow peas

SOUPS, e.g., bean, kale, minestrone, potato, vegetable, white bean

soy sauce

spelt

spinach

squash, summer and esp. winter, e.g., butternut, delicata, kabocha

stews, e.g., barley, winter

stir-fries

stock, vegetable

stuffings

sunflower seeds

sweet potatoes

tahini

tamari

thyme

tofu

tomatoes

turnips

VINEGAR, e.g., apple cider, BALSAMIC, brown rice, red wine, sherry, umeboshi

walnuts

yogurt

yuca

“If I’m making a kale salad, I’ll massage the kale with oil and maybe Dijon mustard. I want a combination of acid, oil, and salt.”

—AMANDA COHEN, DIRT CANDY (NEW YORK CITY)

“I love serving charred kale with smoked tofu, which I’ll mince like bacon bits and let provide the same kind of smoky accent.”

—MAKINI HOWELL, PLUM BISTRO (SEATTLE)

“I love kale—and was an early adapter. I’ve only eaten it raw over the past couple of years. Before that, I preferred it braised, or sautéed with garlic and olive oil, or added to pasta along with feta cheese and pine nuts.”

—MOLLIE KATZEN, AUTHOR OF THE MOOSEWOOD COOKBOOK AND THE HEART OF THE PLATE

“We go through crates and crates of kale every week, and always prefer the less bitter, more refined blue-green Tuscan kale over regular kale, which is much tougher. With either kale, we’ll marinate it in garlic, lemon juice, and olive oil to soften it.”

—CASSIE AND MARLENE TOLMAN, POMEGRANATE CAFÉ (PHOENIX)

“I’ll use my hands to massage avocado into kale leaves, and season them with salt and pepper and lemon juice.”

—SHAWAIN WHYTE, CAFÉ BLOSSOM (NEW YORK CITY)

Dishes

Marinated Kale Salad: Chopped Marinated Kale, Olives, Avocado, Walnuts, and Creamy Garlic Dulse Dressing

—118 Degrees (California)

Kale Salad with Lemon, Serrano Chiles, and Mint

—ABC Kitchen (New York City)

Chiffonade of Kale with Miso-Marinated Tofu Feta, Diced Sun-Dried Tomatoes, and Toasted Walnuts, dressed with Olive Oil, Lemon, and Garlic

—Angelica Kitchen (New York City)

Thai Me Up: An All-Raw Entree: Delicate strands of Daikon Radish, Butternut Squash, and Carrot, on a bed of Garlic-Lemon Marinated Kale, dressed with Thai Tahini Sauce

—Angelica Kitchen (New York City)

Tuscan Kale Salad: Dried Cranberry, Pine Nut, Pecorino Romano

—Boulud Sud (New York City)

The Best Kale Salad: Baby Kale, Sunflower Seed Tahini, Avocado, Green Apples, Toasted Sunflower Seeds, Smoked Sea Salt

—The Butcher’s Daughter (New York City)

Spicy Kale Caesar Salad: Baby Kale, Avocado, Almond Parmesan, Toasted Almonds, Crispy Shallots, and 7-Grain Croutons

—The Butcher’s Daughter (New York City)

Kale and Radicchio Salad: Candied Walnut, Grapes, Shaved Pecorino, Sherry Vinaigrette

—Café Boulud (New York City)

Kale Spanakopita: Harissa Spiced Smoked Tomato Fondu / Mint Oil

—Crossroads (Los Angeles)

Red Chile Kale: Local Black Kale, Guajillo Chile Sauce, Local Potatoes, Wood-Grilled Onions, Anejo Cheese

—Frontera Grill (Chicago)

Raw Kale and Apples Salad: Marinated Kale, Apples, Red Cabbage, and Shaved Fennel tossed in a Cucumber Mint Dressing, topped with Beet Curls

—Great Sage (Clarksville, MD)

Grilled Spicy Kale: Chili, Garlic, Local Sunny Egg

—Hotel Fauchère (Milford, PA)

Warm Kale Salad, Avocado, Corn Chips, Spicy Carrots, Chipotle Dressing

—M.A.K.E. (Santa Monica)

Kale Salad with Basil, Almonds, Mango Pickle with Tahini Dressing and Sesame Wafer

—Oleana (Cambridge, MA)

Smoky Kale with Spanish Almonds, Smoked Tofu, and Roasted Garlic

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

Raw Kale Salad with Ginger Oil, Tamari, Raw Tofu, Seaweed, and Lime Juice

—Plum Bistro (Seattle)

Rennie’s Peanut-Kale Salad: Hearty Kale, Carrots, Butternut Squash, and Red Peppers, in a Peanut-Cider Marinade

—Seva (Ann Arbor, MI)

Tuscan Black Kale, tossed with Lemon Juice, Olive Oil, Garlic, Chili Pepper Flakes, Grated Pecorino Tuscano Cheese, and Bread Crumbs

—True Food Kitchen (Phoenix)

image

 

images  KALE, BLACK (aka CAVOLO NERO, DINOSAUR KALE, LACINATO KALE, or TUSCAN KALE)

Flavor: slightly sweet (and less bitter), with more flavor complexity and a silkier texture than green kale

Volume: quieter than regular kale

almonds

beans, e.g., borlotti, white

bread crumbs, e.g., whole-wheat

cheese, e.g., Parmesan, pecorino

chestnuts

chili pepper flakes

croutons, whole-grain

garlic

Italian cuisine, esp. Tuscan

lemon juice

millet

mushrooms, e.g., porcini, portobello

oil, olive

pastas, e.g., lasagna

potatoes

risottos

sage

salt

soups

tomatoes

vinegar, red wine

Flavor Affinities

black kale + almonds + garlic + olive oil

black kale + chili pepper flakes + garlic + lemon + olive oil + pecorino

black kale + garlic + new potatoes + olive oil

black kale + potatoes + sage

 

images  KAMUT

[kah-MOOT]

Flavor: slightly sweet, with rich notes of butter and/or nuts, and a rich, chewy texture

Volume: quiet–moderate

What it is: a whole-grain wheat, aka Khorasan wheat

Gluten-free: no

Nutritional profile: 79% carbs / 16% protein / 5% fats

Calories: 250 per 1-cup serving (cooked)

Protein: 11 grams

Timing: Cook presoaked kamut about 15–20 minutes, covered; unsoaked, it can take up to 2 hours to become tender.

Ratio: 1:4 (1 cup kamut to 4 cups cooking liquid)

Botanical relatives: barley, corn, rye, spelt, triticale, wheat

almonds

apples and apple juice

asparagus

avocado

baked goods, e.g., breads

basil

bay leaf

beans, e.g., kidney, lima

beets

bell peppers, e.g., red, yellow

broccoli and broccoli rabe

butter

buttermilk

cabbage, e.g., savoy

carrots

cashews

celery

celery root

cereals, hot breakfast

cheese, e.g., feta, goat, Parmesan

chervil

chickpeas

chili pepper flakes

chili, vegetarian

chives

cilantro

cinnamon

coriander

cumin

dill

escarole

fennel

fruit, dried, e.g., apricots, cranberries

GARLIC

ginger

grains, other, e.g., barley, quinoa, rice

honey

kefir

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lentils, e.g., green

lime

lovage

marjoram

mushrooms, e.g., maitake, oyster

mustard, e.g., Dijon

nuts

oil, e.g., avocado, nut, olive

olives, e.g., kalamata

ONIONS, e.g., green, red

oranges

PARSLEY

parsnips

pecans

pepper, black

PILAFS

pizzas

pomegranates

raisins

rice, e.g., wild

risottos

sage

SALADS, e.g., grain, green, tomato, vegetable

salt, sea

scallions

SOUPS, e.g., minestrone

soy sauce

spinach

squash, e.g., winter, e.g., acorn

stews

stock, e.g., vegetable

stuffings

sugar snap peas

tabbouleh

thyme

tomatoes, tomato paste, and tomato puree

tomatoes, sun-dried

vanilla

vegetables, root

veggie burgers

vinegar, e.g., balsamic, brown rice, cider, wine

watercress

yogurt

Flavor Affinities

kamut + apples + pecans + vanilla

kamut + dried cranberries + winter squash

kamut + kidney beans + mushrooms

Dishes

Winter Squash Kamut Risotto: Grilled Maitake Mushrooms, Cashew Cream, Fresh Shelling Beans, Roasted Blue Banana Squash, Braised Fennel and Leek, Fall Greens, Fried Capers, Lemon Zest, Porcini Oil, and Squash Tempura

—Millennium (San Francisco)

 

 

images  KASHA (aka TOASTED BUCKWHEAT GROATS; see also BUCKWHEAT)

Flavor: slightly bitter, with earthy notes of nuts and toast, and a crunchy texture

Volume: loud

What it is: whole grain (toasted buckwheat groats)

Nutritional profile: 82% carbs / 12% protein / 6% fat

Calories: 155 per 1-cup serving (cooked)

Protein: 6 grams

Timing: Cook about 15 minutes, covered; let stand 10 minutes before serving.

Ratio: 1:2 (1 cup kasha to 2 cups cooking liquid)

Botanical relative: rhubarb

apples

beans, green

beets

bell peppers

cabbage

carrots

casseroles

cauliflower

celery

chickpeas

chili pepper paste

corn

croquettes

cucumbers

dates

DILL

Eastern European cuisines

eggs, e.g., hard-boiled and grated

garlic

gravies, e.g., mushroom

jícama

kale

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice

lentils, e.g., red

mint

MUSHROOMS, e.g., portobello, shiitake

oil, e.g., olive, vegetable

onions

oranges

peas, split

parsley

PASTA, whole-grain, e.g., FARFALLE

pepper, black

pilafs

pistachios

rice, brown

Russian cuisine

salads, e.g., corn, grain

salt, sea

scallions

SOUPS, e.g., beet, cabbage, lentil, mushroom, split pea, vegetable

soy sauce

spinach

squash, acorn

stews

stock, vegetable

stuffed vegetables, e.g., cabbage, squash, tomatoes

stuffings

sunflower seeds

tofu

tomatoes

varnishkes, i.e., kasha + farfalle

vegetables, root

veggie burgers

vinegar, e.g., balsamic

walnuts

watercress

yogurt and frozen yogurt (e.g., as a topping)

zucchini

Flavor Affinities

kasha + dates + pistachios

kasha + dill + mushrooms

kasha + gravy + mushrooms + onions

kasha + onions + pasta + watercress

“I love kasha in salads, where its earthy flavor is balanced nicely by the sweetness of corn. Not only is it great in stuffed cabbage and pilafs, but I like it as croquettes: I’ll make them from kasha and mashed potatoes, browning them in a skillet, and serving them with a sauce or just some caramelized onions.”

—PAM BROWN, GARDEN CAFÉ (WOODSTOCK, NY)

Dishes

The Butcher’s Burger: Kasha Portobello Burger, Cashew Cheddar Cheese, Bibb Lettuce, Heirloom Tomatoes, Pickles and Special Sauce, served with Roasted Potato Wedges and Housemade Ketchup

—The Butcher’s Daughter (New York City)

 

 

 

images  KOHLRABI

Season: summer–autumn

Flavor: slightly sweet, with notes of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, mustard, radish, turnip, and/or water chestnut; and a crisp, crunchy, juicy texture

Nutritional profile: 82% carbs / 15% protein / 3% fats

Calories: 40 per 1-cup serving (raw)

Protein: 2 grams

Techniques: boil (20–30 minutes), braise, glaze, grate, grill, parboil, puree, raw, roast, sauté, steam (about 30–45 minutes), stew, stir-fry, stuff

Botanical relatives: other cruciferous vegetables, e.g., broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard greens, kale

Factoid: Chicago chef Stephanie Izard is kohlrabi’s self-described number-one fan.

almonds

anise

apples

basil

beans

blueberries

broccoli

butter

cabbage, e.g., napa

caraway seeds

carrots

casseroles

cayenne

celery

celery root

CHEESE, e.g., blue, feta, goat, Gouda, Parmesan, ricotta, Swiss

chervil

chiles

(Southern) Chinese cuisine

chives

corn

couscous

cream

crudités

cucumbers

cumin

curry powder and curry spices

daikon

DILL

(Northern) European cuisines

fennel

garlic

German cuisine

ginger

gratins

greens, e.g., mustard

horseradish

Hungarian cuisine

Indian cuisine

leeks

lemon, e.g., juice, zest

lentils, e.g., red

lettuces, e.g., romaine

maple syrup

marjoram

mayonnaise

melon, esp. muskmelon

mint

mushrooms

mustard, e.g., Dijon, and mustard seeds

nutmeg

oil, e.g., grapeseed, mustard, olive, peanut, sesame

onions, e.g., green, spring, Vidalia

paprika

parsley

peas

pies

potatoes

purees

radishes

rémoulades

risottos

rosemary

salad dressings

SALADS, e.g., grain, green, vegetable

salt, e.g., sea

sauces

sesame, e.g., oil, seeds

shallots

slaws

soups

sour cream

soy sauce

spring rolls

stews

stir-fries

stock, vegetable

sugar, e.g., brown

tarragon

thyme and lemon thyme

tomatoes

turmeric

turnips

vegetables, root

VINEGAR, e.g., balsamic, fruit, red wine, rice wine, white wine

za’atar

Flavor Affinities

kohlrabi + apples + lemon + mustard + slaws

kohlrabi + basil + mushrooms

kohlrabi + celery root + nutmeg + onions + potatoes

kohlrabi + chili pepper flakes + mustard

kohlrabi + chives + lemon

kohlrabi + cream + German cuisine + nutmeg

kohlrabi + dill + feta cheese + Greek cuisine

kohlrabi + dill + horseradish + lemon juice + sour cream

kohlrabi + garlic + Parmesan cheese + parsley + risotto

kohlrabi + garlic + soy sauce

kohlrabi + paprika + sour cream

kohlrabi + sesame seeds + soy sauce

Kohlrabi can be cubed and smoked, then baked in a hotel pan with stock and oil so that it confits but is still toothsome. It’s great in a root vegetable Bolognese, served with polenta and portobello mushrooms.”

—ERIC TUCKER, MILLENNIUM (SAN FRANCISCO)

Dishes

Kohlrabi Salad with Fennel, Evalon [semi-firm goat cheese], Toasted Almonds, Roasted Shiitakes, Pears and Ginger Dressing

—Girl & the Goat (Chicago)

“Purple” Kohlrabi braised with a broth of its roasted leaves, Wild Rice, Ricotta, Dill

—Oxheart (Houston)