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Cherkezi Dzor, a restaurant in Gyumri, doubles as a hatchery. Put in an order and they kill the trout or sturgeon, grilling, poaching, or marinating the fish in myriad ways. (Their trout and sturgeon roe is also exceptional.) The property evolved from a place that sold live fish to a restaurant to eventually a hatchery, and today it’s a fresh-fish institution in northern Armenia.
The Armenian term for this dish is “boiled trout,” though we interpret it to be more of a braised preparation. The key with super-simple preparations like this one is ensuring that you start with good-quality, fresh trout. Serve it with a side of roasted or boiled potatoes seasoned with chopped parsley, Green Salad with Radishes (page 98), and a side of Matnakash (page 68).
Serves 4
2 whole trout (up to 2 lb [910 g] total) cleaned and scaled
1 Tbsp kosher salt
1/4 yellow onion, sliced
4 allspice berries
2 bay leaves
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
Handful of flat-leaf parsley sprigs
1/2 cup [120 ml] water
Lemon wedges, for serving
Season the trout all over with the salt and refrigerate for 1 hour.
In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven (large enough to fit two trout comfortably without overlapping much), combine the onion, allspice berries, bay leaves, pepper, and parsley. Lay the trout on top and pour in the water.
Cover the pot with a lid, place over medium-low heat, and gradually bring the water to a simmer. Allow the trout to gently braise for 25 to 30 minutes, checking doneness once or twice. (The fewer times you remove the lid to check the fish, the less the steam escapes.)
To serve, transfer the trout to a warmed rimmed platter and spoon the braising juices and onion over the top. Serve with lemon wedges on the side. Braised trout is best the day it is made.