21 Club (New York), 6
52 Association, 97
92nd Street Y (New York), 156
999 Real Kosher Sausage, 39, 78
Aaronson, Sammy, 31
ABC Kitchen (New York), 179
Abie’s Irish Rose (play), 67
Abrahams, Roger, 55
Abraham’s Delicatessen (Memphis), 104
Adams, Carol, 122
Addams, Jane, 72
Adelman, Karen, 174
Adelman’s Kosher Delicatessen (Brooklyn), 167
African Americans, 4, 10, 66, 105, 125, 130, 180
Ain, Stewart, 167
Alfred E. Neuman (character), 147
Algonquin Club, 100
Allen, Steve, 124
Allen, Woody, 149–150
Almond Smash soda, 99
Als, Hilton, 4
Ambassador Theatre, 87
Amsterdam, Morey, 124
Anderson, Max, 39
Annie Hall (film), 149–150
anti-Semitism, 36–37, 48, 127, 129, 149, 150
Arcadia (Southern California) , 104
Ashkenazic (Eastern European) culture, 7, 87, 157, 169, 170, 173, 183, 185
Asnas, Max, 60–61
Atkins, Robert , 143
Attman, Harry, 99
Attman, Seymour, 99
Attman’s Delicatessen (Baltimore), 185
Ausubel, Nathan, 128
Awrach and Perl’s (Baltimore), 98
“Axis origin” of, 92
Bacharach, Burt, 91
bacon, 101, 143, 148, 177, 178
Bacon, Lloyd, 66
bagels, 33, 105, 108, 116, 118, 128, 146, 173, 175, 177, 179,184
Bagg, Lyman, 64
Balinska, Maria, 13
Ballow, Nathan, 98
Ballow’s Delicatessen (Baltimore), 98
Baltimore, Maryland, 12, 72, 75, 99–100, 185
Barnet Brodie Kosher Foods (New York), 39, 47
Barney Greengrass (New York), 184
Barney Sheff’s Delicatessen (Boston), 100
Baron, Sandy, 152
Barthes, Roland,14
Bay Parkway, Brooklyn, 85
beef flanken, 105
Bellman, Sheryll, 13
Belushi, John, 141
Ben’s Kosher Delicatessen (New York), 6, 162
Benjamin of Tudela Restaurant (New York), 155
Benjamin Rachleff Kosher Meats (New York), 95
Bent, Silas, 74
Bentley, Amy, 93
Berger, Joseph , 157
Berle, Milton,149
Berlin, Irving, 63
Bernamoff, Rae, 13
Bernstein, Eleanor, 133–134
Bernstein, Leonard, 145
Bernstein on Essex (New York), 133–134, 135, 141. See also Schmulka Bernstein’s Delicatessen
Berra, Yogi, 101
Bial, Henry, 150
Bisman, Aaron, 185
Black Seed Bagels (New York), 177
blue laws, 41
Blue Ridge Mountains (Smokies), 98
Bluebird, The. See People’s Cinema
Boca Raton, Florida, 171
bologna, 92
Bond’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 104
Borscht Capades (musical), 146
Boston, Massachusetts, 4, 8, 31, 36, 100–101, 171
Bowlby, Rachel, 118
Boyle Heights, Los Angeles, 102
Brass Rail Delicatessen (Charlotte), 105
Breakfast at Tiffany’s (film), 147
Brice, Fanny, 151
Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 20
brisket, 4, 15, 50, 56, 84, 106, 118, 143, 155, 173, 174, 184
Broadway Danny Rose (film), 152
Broadway theater, 53–68, 70, 87, 146, 147, 149, 202n19,
Bronx, New York, 54, 75, 79, 83, 88, 89, 95, 110, 114, 117, 121, 156, 158, 160, 182
Bronx Delicatessen Dealers Association, 95
Brooklyn, New York, xi, 4, 11, 13, 15, 26, 31, 33, 39, 44, 54, 71, 78, 79, 80, 81, 83–88, 92, 94, 103, 114, 120, 121, 124, 131, 133, 136, 152, 154, 156, 158, 167, 169, 170, 172, 179, 182, 192n21
Brooklyn Dodgers, 114
Brownsville, Brooklyn, 31, 51, 85, 86, 95, 136
Brownsville Kosher Meats (Brooklyn), 95
Burstein, Pesach, 71
Burtson, Bud, 55
Bushwick, Brooklyn, 87
butcher shops, 17, 28, 29, 31, 42, 51, 76, 77, 93, 103, 104, 115, 121, 133
Caesar, Samuel, 51
Caesar, Sid, 107
Café Masada (New York), 156
Campbell Soup Company, 130
candy stores, 34, 117, 131, 198n63
Canter’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Cantor, Jay, 89
Carnegie Delicatessen, 99, 141, 149, 152, 157, 164–166, 167, 180, 183
Carroll, Peter N., 142
Catskill Mountains, 107–110, 123, 152, 174, 178
Celebrities and the deli, 56
celery tonic, 4, 35, 47–48, 88, 158, 174, 178
Cel-Ray Tonic (Dr. Brown’s), 47–48, 158
cervelat, 101
Chan, Millie, 156
Chaplin, Charlie, 62
Charlie Brown (character), 148
Charlotte, North Carolina, 105
Chase, Jack, 118
Cheers (TV show), 8
cheese blintzes, 110
cheesecake, 4, 56, 63, 70, 97, 102
Cherches, Peter, 131
Chicago, Illinois, 28, 72, 101–102, 146, 147
Chinese food/Chinese delicatessen, 26; attraction for Jews, 113–114, 129–135
Chompie’s New York Deli (Phoenix, Arizona), 179
chopped liver, 61, 89, 103, 105, 110, 146–147, 148, 155, 163, 170, 178, 184, 185
chow mein, 97
Chrissey, Forrest, 28
Chun King Chinese food, 130
City Grit Restaurant (New York), 173
City Kosher Meats Company (New York), 120
civil rights era, 105
Clancy’s Kosher Wedding (film), 67
Coca-Cola, 141
coffee house, 35
Cohen, Jerry, 106
Cohen, Lizabeth, 123
Cohen, Mark, 147
Cohen, Rich, 103
Cohen, Wolfie, 106. See also Wolfie’s Delicatessen
Cohens and the Kellys, The (film), 67
Cohen’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Cole, Nat “King,” 101
Colgate-Palmolive Company, 130
Como, Perry, 110
Condon, Richard, 3
Coney Island, New York, 34, 80, 103, 138
consumer protection laws, 49–41
Copacabana nightclub (New York), 106
Copeland, Senator Royal S., 47
Copelon, Percy, 146
Corbett, Ruth, 93
corned beef, 95, 96, 99, 101, 102, 103, 104, 106, 107, 108; in space 110–112
“Corned Beef Row” (Baltimore), 99
Cornell University, 110
Cosell, Howard, 114
Counihan, Carole, 12
Courtney, Geene, 122
Cousin’s Delicatessen (Catskills), 108
crime rates, 114–115
Curb Your Enthusiasm (TV show), 152–154, 183, 153
Cytryn, Rabbi Eric, 137
Dallmayr Delicatessen (Munich, Germany), 19
Dan’s Supreme Super Market, 115, 121
Danson, Ted, 153
Dassara Restaurant (New York), 179
David, Hal, 91
David, Larry, 142–154, 183, 153
Davis, Fred, 170
Debs, Eugene V., 124
delicatessen food, 7, 32; and beachgoing, 88; and becoming American, 33, 36; catering, 11; in Eastern Europe, 21–22; etymology, 17, 26, 92; and health, 6, 47–49; and masculinity, 148–153; in music, 145–148; rising popularity of, 70–76; in space, 110–112; and spiciness, 45–56; and social mobility, 20; and Sunday closing laws, 43–45, take-out, 11; on television, 145, 152–154
Delicatessen Husband (story), 74
Delicatessen Kid, The (film), 67
delicatessen waiter, 11, 58, 60, 64, 68–70, 89; Chinese, 161, 202n24
“delicatessen wife,” 70–74
delicatessens: in Atlanta, 105; in Baltimore, 99–100; in Boston, 100–101; in the Catskills, 107–110; in Charleston, 104; in Charlotte, 105; in Chicago, 101–102; and cleanliness, 46–47; decline of, 113–189; in Eastern Europe, 23–24; and eating outdoors, 77; and excess, 2; German, in New York, 25–26; in Germany, 19, 92; Eastern European Jewish in America, 1–98, 114–189; family gatherings on Sunday nights, 76, 88; in film 54–55, 66–67; 149–152; and gourmet food, 14; the Great Depression, 76–77, 82–85, 90; hard work in, 82–83; health concerns, 6, 14, 46–49, 122–123, 142–145, 157, 160, 188; homesickness, 33; and the Jewish vote, 10; in Los Angeles, 102–103; on the Lower East Side, 27–34, 39, 41–51, 138–141; in Memphis, 104; in Miami Beach 105–107; mom and pop business, 83–85; in New Orleans, 104; in New York, xi-xii, 1–4, 6–12, 25–34, 37–52, 54–97; in outer space, 110–112; proximity to Broadway, 53–68; proximity to cinemas, 86–88; secular Judaism and, 85–86, 89–90; and sex, 3, 9, 14, 17, 45–56; smell of, 3; in the suburbs, 115; in vaudeville, 48
delicatessens, decline of, 113–189
DeMille, Cecille B., 127
Dexter’s Restaurant (Bronx, New York), 156
Dilbert’s Quality Supermarkets, 121
Dobias, Joe, 178
Dorfman, Lieutenant Colonel Harold, 97
Doyle, Dane, Bernbach, 125
Dr. Brown’s Cel Ray Tonic, 47–48, 158
Dragoon, Ronnie, 171
Drucker, Judith Nelson, 105
Dubinsky, David, 77
Duffy, Jennifer Nugent, 8
Dwyer, Thomas, 76
Earl of Sandwich, 5
East Bronx, 89
“East Side Kids” (film series), 87
East Village, New York, 162–164, 181
Eat ’n Shop Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Ebbets Field, 114
Eden Wok (kosher Chinese, New York), 168, 179
Eggleston, Edward, 26
Environmental consequences of beef production, 144
Epstein, Joseph, 101
Essex Food Shop (Boston), 101
European Kosher, 39
Evans, Sara, 37
F. W. Woolworth Company, 36, 115
Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, 102
Federal Writers’ Project, 58
Feltman, Sissi Perlman, 106
Ferragamo, 137
Ferris, Marcie Cohen, 104
Fiddler on the Roof (musical), 21
Fixx, Jim, 143
Flatbush, 131
Flushing, Queens, 158
Flushing Delight Delicatessen (New York), 159
Foo, Wong Chin, 26
Ford, Henry, 54
Ford, Tennessee Ernie, 115
Ford, Whitey, 101
Fort Dix (NJ), 98
Four Seasons (New York), 6
Frank and Bob’s Delicatessen, 108
frankfurters (hot dogs), 29, 39, 85, 34, 41, 47, 55, 58, 79, 83, 84, 85, 92, 94, 95, 96, 97, 99; 101, 104, 114, 118, 122, 123, 124, 130, 136, 144, 158, 168, 175, 179; as phallic symbol, 92, 122
Freedman, David, 35
Freirich, Jerry, 120
fried fish stall, 35
Friedman, Oscar, 101
Friedman’s Delicatessen (Chicago), 101
Fuchs, Daniel, 71
Gagarin, Yuri, 111
Gaiety Delicatessen (New York), 60, 70, 106, 149
G&G Delicatessen (Boston), 100
garlic, xiii, 32, 81, 87, 149; and anti-Semitism, 36–37
Gay, Ruth, 129
Gayle, Jackie, 152
gefilte fish, 16, 63, 64, 113, 118, 133, 178, 186
Gellis, Isaac, 38, 40. See also Isaac Gellis Delicatessen (New York)
Gemini 3 space mission, 111–112
gender roles, 90
George VI, King, and Queen Elizabeth, 92
George and Sid’s Delicatessen (New York), 79
Gertner, Louisa, 76
G.I. Bill, 115
Gibbon, Edward, 5–6
Gibbons, Barbara, 143
Gittlin’s Kosher Provisions (New York), 39
Glassner, Barry, 142
Gleason, Jackie, 147
Godfrey, Arthur, 124
Gold, David L., 21
Gold, Jonathan, 10
Gold, Judy, 151
Goldberg, J. J., 10
Golden, Harry, 105
Golden Touch, The (musical), 55, 147
Goldfried, Irving, 83–84
Goldfried’s, 87
Goldman, Ari, 138
Goldstein, Al, 162
Goldstein, Charlie, 100
Gone With the Wind (film), 87
Goodman, Benny, 103
Gopnik, Adam, 165
Gosset, Lou, 80
Gottlieb’s Delicatessen (New York), 84, 87
Gould, Jillian, 34
gourmet food shops: in Europe, 18–20; on Lower East Side, 27–28
gourmet kosher food, 155–157
Grabstein, Marty, 84
Grabstein’s Delicatessen (Brooklyn), 79, 84
Graham, Sylvester, 45
Green, Irving, 100
Gregory XIII (pope), 18
gribenes, 185
Grieg, Edvard, 19
Grissom, Virgil “Gus,” 111
Grodsky’s Delicatessen, 115
Grossman, Bob, 133
Grossman, Ruth, 133
Gruber, Ziggy, 70
Gurock, Jeffrey, 89
Gutterman, Leon, 61
H. L. Kaplan & Company (Baltimore), 99
Haber, Yankel, 24
Hager, Murray, 78
Halper, Manny, 121
Halpern’s Delicatessen (Memphis), 104
Halter, Marilyn, 120
halvah, 102
ham and cheese, 104
Handwerker, Nathan, 97
Harburger, Julius, 42
Harmon, Lawrence, 100
Harold’s New York Deli (Edison, New Jersey), 180
Harris, Julie, 149
Harris-Shapiro, Carol, 16
“hasher” girl, 69
health and fitness movement, 141–145
Hebrew National Company, 14; advertising campaigns of, 122–126, 125; origins of, 38–40; 78, 108–110, 118, 120–121
Heiman, Jim, 58
Heinze, Andrew, 119
Henry, Buck, 141
Henry S. Levy & Sons (Brooklyn bakery), 124
Herald Square (New York), 168
Herberg, Will, 128
Herr, Nates, 98
herring, 99, 104, 105, 118, 172; “tore a herring,” 203n29
Hertzberg, Rabbi Arthur, 171
Hillel Sandwich, 5
Hindus, Maurice, 33
Hod Carmel Kosher Foods (New York), 40
Hoffman, Jackie, 151
Hollinger, David, 169
Horowitz, Rabbi Yaakov Y., 168
Horowitz, Scott, 167
Howard, Elston, 101
Hull House (Chicago), 72
Hy Tulip Kosher Delicatessen (Brooklyn), 79
Hyde Park, New York, 92
Hygrade Kosher Meat Company (New York), 40
Hyman, Paula, 31
Iceland, Reuven, 29
Il Monello (Italian restaurant, New York), 137
Il Nido (Italian restaurant, New York, 137
I’ll Say She Is! (musical), 53
immigrant generation, 6–7, 13, 28, 29, 31–38, 45, 46, 51, 54, 55, 66, 69, 70, 120, 138, 139, 142, 145, 158, 159, 161–164, 180, 183, 186, 189
interwar era, 90
Irish pub, 8
Isaac Gellis Delicatessen (New York), 96
Italian food, 135–138
Italian social club, 8
It’s a Pickle (video), 164–166
Jacob Branfman and Son, 40; kosher meat fraud, 49–50
Jacobs, Eli, 168
Jacob’s Ladder (Cedarhurst, L.I.)), 155
Jacobson, Matthew Frye, 48
Jakle, John A., 36
James, Allison, 131
James, Rian, 59
Jazz Age, 59
Jefferson, Thomas, 24
Jews and intermarriage with Irish, 66–67
Jews keeping kosher, 79–80
Jews moving to Los Angeles, 2
Jews moving to Miami Beach, 2, 98, 123
Jochnowitz, Eve, 148
Joe’s Broadway Delicatessen (Miami Beach), 106
Joe’s Stone Crab (Miami Beach), 106
JoeDoe (New York sandwich shop), 178: vs. JoeDough (upscale restaurant), 178
John Golden Theatre, 63
Johnson, Samuel, 19
Joint Council of Delicatessen StoreDealers, 95
Jordan, Will, 152
Joselit, Jenna Weissman, 81, 118, 119, 138
Joseph’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Junior’s Restaurant (New York), 13
Kahaney, Corey, 151
Kalfus, Ken, 147
Kalmanoff, Martin, 61
Kaminer, Michael, 173
Kanter, Abba, 20
Kaplan, Annie, 108
Kaplan, Josh, 179
Kaplan, Moe, 108
Kaplan, Mordechai, 81
Kaplan, Ricki, 110
Kaplan, Sari, 110
Kaplan’s Delicatessen (Monticello), 108, 109, 110
Kaplansky’s Delicatessen (Toronto), 172
Kassner, Diane, 68
Katz’s Delicatessen (New York), 29, 30, 89, 91, 139, 141, 150–152, 174, 175, 177, 180
Keaton, Diane, 149–150
Kellogg, Ella Eaton, 45
Kellogg, John Harvey, 45
Kenny and Ziggy’s Delicatessen (Houston, Texas), 179
Kenny and Zuke’s Delicatessen (Portland, Oregon), 172
Kensington Kosher Deli (Great Neck, Long Island), 15
Kessler, Barry, 12
kielbasa, 122
King, Alan, 137
King, Larry, 107
King, Martin Luther, Jr., 105
Kirshenblatt, Mayer, 22
Kirson, Jessica, 151
Klein, Mannie, 145
kosher delicatessen associations, 93
knishes, 2, 10, 13, 29, 79, 89, 128, 149, 158, 179
Kober, Arthur, 75
Koch, Mayor Ed, 162
Koenig, Leah, 48
Kong-Devito, Mary, 180
Korean War, 101
korobka, 51
“kosher,” as difficult to define, 51
kosher beef riot, 31
kosher butcher shops, 29; in the South, 104, 115
kosher delicatessen, 2, 11, 27, 28, 29, 34, 37, 39, 41, 76, 77, 79, 80–81, 82, 87, 88, 90, 91, 93, 95, 99, 102, 116, 117, 119, 124, 128, 129, 131, 133, 135; and black market, 94–95; and food companies, 38–40; and fraud, 49–51; glatt kosher, 155, 158, 159, 167; healthfulness, 45–46, 123; and Jewishness, different definitions of, 51–52, 66; and literature; 75
kosher delicatessen associations, 93
Kosher Kitty Kelly (musical), 66, 67
kosher laws, 47
kosher meat industry and fraud, 49
Kosher Murphy’s Delicatessen (South Gate), 104
kosher sausage companies, 93
kosher-style (non-kosher) delicatessen, 2, 3, 52, 55; in the entertainment district, 55–68, 90, 97, 108, 128, 129, 148
Kotik, Yeheskl, 22
Kraemer, David, 13
Krainin, Theodore, 47
Kranis, Jack, 95
Krasner, Irving, 95
Kraut, Alan, 118
kreplach (dumplings), 2, 102, 145, 178
Krupp, Herbert, 82
Kubek, Tony,101
Kubrick’s Supermarket, 121
Kuh, Patrick, 11
Kuleto, Pat, 79
Kun, Jost, 146
Kurlansky, Mark, 2
Kutsher’s Tribeca (New York), 178
La Kasbah (New York), 156
LaGuardia, Fiorello, 77, 95–96
Lammers, Wayne, 165
Lappe, Frances Moore, 144
Lawrence, Greg, 116
Lax’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Leb’s Delicatessen (Atlanta, Georgia), 105
Lebedeff, Aaron, 22
Lebedin, Charlie, 105
Lebewohl, Jeremy, 162
Lederer, Otto, 67
Lefkowitz, Murray, 83–84
legal definition of a delicatessen, 40–41
Lend Lease Program, 93
Leonard, Eddie, 68
Lev, Carl, 98
Levana (New York), 156
Levant, Oscar, 58
Levenson, Phil, 83
Levenson, Sam, 157
Leventman, Seymour, 128
Levi, Jane, 111
Levine, Hillel, 100
Levi-Strauss, Claude, 12
Levitoff’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 104
Levitt, Peter, 175
Levy, Esther, 30
Levy’s Rye Bread, 124–127, 126
Lewis, Jerry, 147
Lewis, Leonard, 120
Liebman, Rabbi Joshua, 127
“lieux de memoire,” 169
Lindemann, Leo, 63
Lindy’s Delicatessen (New York), 10, 56, 58, 60, 63, 69, 70, 106
Linny’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Little Budapest, 156
Little Tough Guys (films), 87
liverwurst, 100, 104, 118, 143, 207n8
Los Angeles, California, 10, 102–104, 114, 172, 186
Lou G. Siegel’s Restaurant (New York), 88
Love and Death (film), 149
Lower East Side (New York), 1, 4, 7, 13, 25–32; food stores, 33–36, 37,40; kosher food companies, 38–40, 47, 51, 54, 85, 89, 115, 117, 133, 136; return to, 138–139, 141, 148, 151, 161, 163, 164, 167, 170, 171, 181, 187
Mahoney, Agnes V., 74
Making Trouble (documentary), 151
Malcolm X, 125
Mamma Leone’s (New York), 136
Manhattan, New York, 3, 6, 13, 26, 43, 58, 59, 78, 80, 88, 89, 96, 127, 141, 155, 162, 167, 168, 172, 187
Manischewitz Kosher Food Company, 160, 168
Manny’s Coffee Shop (Chicago), 101
Manoff, Arnold, 58
Marcus, Jason, 178
Mariani, John, 137
Mark, Jonathan, 157
Marx, Groucho, 53
Mason, Jackie, 117
Maspeth, Queens (frankfurters), 159
Matt, Susan J., 33
Matzo ball soup, xi, 5, 61, 68, 118, 139, 146, 155, 164, 165, 167, 172, 173, 179, 180
Maxwell Street (Chicago), 101
May’s Department Store, 115
mayonnaise, 54, 89–90, 119, 149
Mazo’s Delicatessen (Charleston, North Carolina), 104 ??????
McGovern, George, 10
meat in ancient Judaism, 4
“meatless Tuesdays,” 95
Memphis, Tennessee, 104
Menashe, Louis, 87
Mencken, H. L., 26
Mendy’s (Grand Central Terminal, New York), 168
Mercer, Johnny, 103
Miami Beach, Florida, 105–107
Mile End Delicatessen (New York), 172, 174–177
Miles, Lotta, 53
Miller, Batya, 39
Miller, Bryan, 155
Modern Delicatessen and Lunch (Boston), 101
Mogen Dovid Delicatessen Magazine, 15, 46, 47, 50, 77, 82, 124
Monica, Corbett, 152
Moore, Deborah Dash, 55, 81, 91
Morgenthau, Robert, 10
Moskin, Julia, 172
Mostel, Zero, 2
movie theaters, 59
Mr. Broadway Bar and Grill (New York), 168
Mt. Sinai Kosher Provision Supply, 39
Mueller, George, 112
Multiculturalism and Jewish food, 138
Murray “Boy” Maltin, 103
mustard, xii, 5, 33, 39, 46, 60, 83, 85, 88, 99, 103, 108, 133, 149, 171
My Fair Lady (musical), 147
My Son, the Celebrity (album), 147
Nachman, Gerald, 147
Nadir, Moishe, 38
Nanou (New York), 155–156
NASA, 111–112
Nasaw, David, 33
Nate ’n Al’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102, 103
Nates and Leon’s Delicatessen (Baltimore), 98
Nathan, George Jean, 55–57
Nathan’s Restaurant (New York), 55, 97
National Kosher Foods (New York), 39
Neal’s Delicatessen (Carrboro, NC), 172
Nestle Foods, 130
Nevelson, Louise, 137
New York Deli News Delicatessen (Denver, CO), 179
“New York” Jewish Deli, outside New York, 98–110
New York Yankees, 101
Nichols, Anne, 67
Ninth of Av (Tisha B’Av), 4
Noah’s Ark Delicatessen (New York), 167
Nora, Pierre, 169
North Carolina Israelite, 105
nostalgia for the delicatessen, 169–172
Novick, Sam, 120
Office of Price Administration (OPA), 92, 94
Oldenburg, Ray, 7
O’Ross, Ed, 153
Orthodox Jews, 2, 31, 49, 51, 80, 89, 125, 133,134, 142; resurgence of, 154–156
Oscherwitz, 38
Overstuffed sandwiches, 55
Ozersky, Josh, 174
Palace Café, 63
Park, Sharon Daloz, 8
Parker, Milton, 165
pastrami, xi, xiii, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 11, 12, 17; and contemporary Jewish food, 178–179; etymology, 20–21; in film, 149, 166, 158, 167, 168, 169, 170, 172, 178, 179, 180, 181, 183, 184, 185; in literature, 145; in music, 22, 28, 29, 30, 37, 47, 56, 60, 61, 64, 69, 71, 85, 87, 89, 92, 97, 98, 102, 103, 104, 105, 107, 108, 114, 116, 117, 118, 129, 131, 133, 135, 138, 139, 140, 141, 143
Pastrami King Delicatessen (New York), 87
Pastrami ’n Things Delicatessen (New York), 141
Pastrami Olympics, 139–141, 140
Pastrami Queen (New York), 185
Peale, Norman Vincent, 127
Pearl’s Chinese Restaurant, 133
Peck, Gregory, 127
People’s Cinema, 87
Pepperidge Farm, 130
Perl’s Delicatessen (Baltimore), 98
Persky, Samuel, 129
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, xiii, 24, 28, 31, 184
pickles, xi, 2, 4, 6, 12, 33, 39, 68, 87, 88, 101, 104, 106, 108, 138, 143, 146, 171, 174
Pico-Robertson (neighborhood), 104
Pines, Skip, 144
Pizza Hut, 130
Plainview, Long Island, 167
Plotch, Batia Louzon, 156
Poliakoff’s, 88
politics and the delicatessen: in Boston, 100–101; in New York, 123
Polland, Annie, 9
Popkin, Samuel, 77
popularity of the sandwich, 56
Posit, Michael, 156
“postgastronomic,” 169
Postman, Neil, 131
postwar change in delicatessen foods, 97
Prada, 137
Pressner’s Delicatessen, 104
Private Izzy Murphy (film), 66
Protas, Judy, 125
p’tcha (calf’s-foot jelly), 2, 185
Public National Kosher Company (New York), 120
pumpernickel bread, 105
Pumpernik’s Delicatessen (Miami Beach), 106, 107
Puttin’ on the Ritz (song), 63
Queen Victoria, 64
R. J. Reynolds, 130
Radin’s Delicatessen (Brooklyn), 114
radio advertising, 123–124
Radio City Music Hall, 58
Radner, Gilda, 151
Raichlen, Barbara, 106
Raichlen, Steve, 106
Raphil’s Delicatessen (Miami Beach), 106, 107
Rascal House (Miami Beach), 107
rationing, 92–95
Ratner’s Dairy Restaurant (New York), 68, 184
RC Cola Company, 79
Real Kosher, 95
Reconstructionist Movement, 81
Reich, Benjamin, 34
Reichert, Tom, 122
Reilly, Paul, 159
Reiner, Estelle, 151
Reiner, Rob, 150–151
relish, 85
Remach Kosher Meat Products, 39
Reuben’s Delicatessen (New York), 1, 10, 56, 57, 58, 60, 61, 62
Richardson, Bobby, 101
Richman, Alan, 69
Ridgewood, Queens, 87
Rischin, Moses, 32
rise of ethnic food, 129–138
Rivers, Joan, 151
Riviana Foods, 130
RKO Movie Theatre (Queens), 87
roast beef, xii, 89, 106, 110, 153
Robbins, Jerome, 116
Robinson, Bill “Bojangles,” 68
Rockefeller, Nelson, 10
Rooney, Pat, 68
Roosevelt, Franklin Delano, 92
Roosevelt, Theodore, 42
Rosen’s Delirama (Memphis, TN), 104
Rosenbaum, Aharon, 23
Rosenbaum, Ron, 164
Rosenberg, Herb, 80
Rosenblatt, Gary, 187
Rosenblum’s Delicatessen (New York), 80
Rosenfeld, Isaac, 148
Roth, Philip, 132
Rothstein, Al, 56
Rothstein, Arnold, 60
Rotkovitz, Miryam, 132
Royal Farms, 121
Rubin, Benny, 67
Rubin, Rabbi Schulem, 159
Rubin’s Delicatessen (Boston), 101
Rubin-Dorsky, Jeffrey, 152
Rudnick, Paul, 168
“Rumenye, Rumenye” (song), 22
Runyon, Damon, 63
Russ and Daughters (New York), 184
Rustin, Bayard, 10
Sacks, Karen Brodkin, 115
Saint Aubin, Charles Germain de, 19
salami, 2, 32, 37, 47, 78, 85, 99, 101, 104, 105, 110, 111, 114, 115, 116, 118, 122, 123, 124, 139, 143, 144; in pop culture, 146–147, 178, 185; chicken salami, 85, 87, 88, 89; sending salami overseas, 91–92
Sales, Soupy, 4
Salupsky, Isidore P., 82
Sammy’s Rumanian Restaurant (New York), 167
“Samurai Deli” skit, 141
San Antonio, 98
sandwich, invention of, 5–6; overstuffed, 1, 6, 9, 20, 55, 112, 141, 145, 168, 175, 179, 183
sandwich shops, 56
Santa Monica, California, 104
Sardi’s Restaurant (New York), 6
Sarna, Jonathan, 127
Saul’s Delicatessen (Berkeley, CA), 174
sausages, xvi, 2, in European Jewish diet, 20–22; on Lower East Side, 25–29, 32, 34; factories, 38–40, 45, 49, 79, 94, 99; in the South, 104; sexual associations, 122, 192n27; in literature,136
scams involving non-kosher (treyf) meat, 49–50
Scarsdale, New York, 171
Schirra, Wally, 111
Schlachter’s Kosher Delicatessen (New York), 117
Schlesinger, Arthur, 12
Schmulka Bernstein’s Delicatessen (New York), 39, 89, 133
Schneier’s Delicatessen (Brooklyn), 114
Schnipper’s Delicatessen (Brooklyn), 114
Scholem, Richard Jay, 157
Schrafft’s Soda Fountains, 36
Schwartz, Louis, 91
Schweller, Louis, 95
Sculle, Keith A., 36
Seabury, Florence Guy, 74
Second Avenue Deli (New York), 3, 13, 68, 139, 157, 162–164, 175, 181, 184, 185
second generation Jews, xiv, 7, 10, 20, 51, 55–56, 71, 77, 79, 81, 86, 130, 155, 187
Second World War and non-Jewish foods, 91, 97
Sedaka, Neil, 110
Seelos, Annette, 62
Segal’s Delicatessen (Memphis, TN), 104
“Send a Salami to Your Boy . . . ,” 91–92
Sephardic food, 35, 87, 156, 157, 173
settlement houses, 36–37
sex and the delicatessen, 3, 9, 14, 17, 45–46; in advertising, 122; in film, 148–152
Shandler, Jeffrey, 169
Shapiro, Edward, 115
shelamim sacrifice, 5
Sheraton, Mimi, 108, 137, 141, 171
Sherman, John D., 72
Sherman, Rose, 146
Shipley, George, 111
Shipman, Sammy, 61
shopping malls, 115
show business and the delicatessen, 59–64
Shtreyt, Shlomo, 24
Silver, Laura, 13
Simon, Kate, 88
Sinai Kosher, 38
Sinclair, Jo, 75. See also Wasteland
Singer’s (Liberty, New York), 108
Sixteen Tons (song), 116
Sixth Avenue Delicatessen (New York), 91
Skyscraper (musical), 149
Smith, Joe, 56
Smokler, Daniel, 87
So Jewtastic (video), 186
Solomon, Barbara, 95
Solomon, King, 72
Somers, Ethel, 71
South Gate (California), 104
Soyer, Daniel, 9
Spinoza, Baruch, 149
Squire’s Delicatessen, 90
Stage Delicatessen (New York), 56, 60, 61, 70, 114, 167
Stage Stop Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 104
Stamberg, Susan, 89
state university campus at Binghamton (New York), 110
state university campus at Cortland (New York), 110
Stern, Daniel, 3
Stiller, Jerry, 145
Stillman, Dr. Irwin, 143
Stouffer’s, 130
Strange Interlude (play), 63
stuffed cabbage, 105
Sumter (South Carolina), 101
Sunday as delicatessen night, 88, 106
Sunday closing (“blue”) laws, 41–44
Sunshine Provision Company (NY), 49
supermarket deli counter, 117–119
Sussman, Adeena, 179
Sussman, Jacob, 98
Sussman and Lev’s Delicatessen (Baltimore), 98, 100
sustainability, 174–176
Takada, Hidehiko, 156
Tavern on the Green (New York), 6
Taylor, Philip, 136
Taylor, Sybil, 8
technologies and the delicatessen, 74
Temple in Jerusalem, 4–5
Ten Commandments (film), 127
terroir, 173–174
Thaler, Susan, 117
third place/third space concept, 7–9, 186–187
Tiberias Restaurant (New York), 168
Times Square, 59
tongue (beef), xiii, 2, 11, 35, 47, 58, 64, 74, 83, 89, 94, 95, 99, 104, 114, 143, 184
Toots Shor’s (New York), 106
Traif (Williamsburg, Brooklyn), 178
Trillin, Calvin, 139
Tuchman, Gaye, 131
Tucker, Sophie, 151
turkey, roast, xii, 11, 55, 58, 62, 143, 145, 149, 150
Ukor Kosher Meat Company (New York), 40
Ullman, Hans, 22
Upper West Side, New York, 77, 80, 155, 157, 165
vaudeville routines, 48, 53–54
Versace, 137
Vienna Beef, 38
Vienna Sausage Company (Chicago), 10
Vitmin (Lithuanian delicatessen), 24
Voice of the Delicatessen Industry, 82
Volk, Patricia, 29
Volk, Sussman, 29
Vongerichten, Jean-Georges, 179
Waldbaum, Ira, 120
Waldbaum’s, 120
Walsh, George , 27
Ward, David, 77
wartime shortages, 92
Washington, D.C., 74, 123, 171, 172
Wasteland (novel), 75
Webster, H. T. , 26
Weingarten, Joseph A., 114
Weiss, Sam, 146
Weiss, Steve, 167
Weiss’s Delicatessen (Baltimore), 98
Welles, Orson, 102
Wepner, Morris, 78
Wexler’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 172
When Harry Met Sally (film), 150–152, 151, 183
White, Barry, 165
whitefish, 108
Whiteman, Paul, 61
Williams, Jeanne, 122
Williamsburg, Brooklyn, xi, 44, 87, 178
Wilson, Bee, 6
Wilson, S. J., 76
Winter Garden Theater, 60
Wise Sons Delicatessen (San Francisco) 172
Wolfie’s Delicatessen (Cocoa Beach), 110
Wolfie’s Delicatessen (Miami Beach), 106, 107
Wolfman, Ira, 11
Wolitz, Seth, 2
Woloshin’s (Los Angeles), 102
Woolworth’s. See F. W. Woolworth Company
Works Progress Administration, 80
Wurzburger, Rabbi Walter S., 154
Yezierska, Anzia, 32
Yizkor (Memorial) Books, 23–24
Yom Kippur (Day of Atonement), 85
Young, Brigham, 72
Young, John, 111
Youngerman’s Delicatessen (Williamsburg, Brooklyn), 44
Your Show of Shows (TV show), 107
Zanger, Mark, 120
Zarkower’s Delicatessen (White Plains, New York), 116
Zentner, Si, 146
Zieff, Howard, 125
Ziegelman, Jane, 13
Ziegfeld Follies, 62
Zion Kosher, 39–40, 78, 95, 118, 119, 124, 185
Zucky’s Delicatessen (Santa Monica), 104
Zukin, Nick, 13
Zunz, Oliver, 77
Zusman, Michael, 13
Zweibel, Alan, 142