In 1907, London’s largest private bus company, which until then ran buses in different colors, painted its vehicles red to make them stand out. The look caught on: The law now states that all London buses must be red.
First London “horse-drawn omnibus service” July 4, 1829; a 22-seat, three-horse journey from Marylebone Street to the Bank of England via King’s Cross
First double-decker 1847
First motorized omnibus 1899
Last London horse-drawn bus service August 4, 1914
Bus stops introduced 1918-1919
Upper decks enclosed 1925
Routemasters The most iconic London bus of all—with the hop-on, hop-off rear platform—was in service from 1956 to 2005.
Routemasters built 2,876
Surviving Routemasters 1,280
Surviving Routemaster route Heritage, route #15 (Tower Hill–Trafalgar Square)
Number of buses today about 7,500
Passengers carried daily more than 6 million
Night-only routes 55
The Oxford and Cambridge Club, a Pall Mall dignitary since 1830 (Illustrations Credits 12.1)
London’s traditional clubs were—and are—the domain of the great, the good, and the not so good. Most were—and occasionally still are—reserved for men. Many occupy outstanding historic buildings with grand interiors. The oldest evolved from coffeehouses, and many were given over to gambling. The most exclusive are still found in “Clubland”—the area around Pall Mall and St. James’s Street—and are as popular, discreet, and difficult to join as ever.
• White’s, 1693
(37-38 St. James’s St., SW1)
London’s oldest and most exclusive club has its roots in White’s Chocolate House, founded by an Italian, Francesco Bianco (Francis White). An exception to the men-only rule was made when the Queen came to lunch to celebrate the club’s 300th anniversary. A photograph recording the event was placed in the club’s main lavatory. Prince Charles is a member.
• Boodle’s, 1762
(28 St. James’s St., SW1)
Men often belonged to more than one club, but Boodle’s sacked any member who had the temerity to join White’s. It took its name from a former headwaiter, and it is said to be the inspiration for “Blades Club” in the James Bond novels. Boodle’s was the last club to retain chamber pots for use by members “whose habits were formed before the days of modern sanitation.”
• Brooks’s, 1764
(60 St. James’s St., SW1)
Brooks’s grew out of a club founded by those blackballed—refused membership—by White’s. It was once a byword for extravagant gambling, a place, according to one member, where “a thousand meadows and cornfields were staked at every throw.” One member attended only to have his watch wound by staff.
• The Travellers Club, 1819
(106 Pall Mall, SW1)
The Travellers began as a point of reunion for travelers or those who wished to entertain people they had met on their travels: Its rules once stipulated members should have “travelled out of the British Isles to a distance of at least five hundred miles from London in a direct line.” It still claims the odd bona fide traveler, but is otherwise one of the stuffier clubs.
• Athenaeum, 1824
(107 Pall Mall, SW1)
The club has a reputation for seriousness and intellectual vigor—though that hasn’t prevented most British prime ministers from being members—and takes its name from the Athenaeum of ancient Rome, founded by Emperor Hadrian for the study of science and literature. It was one of the last major clubs to install a bar, nearly 150 years after its foundation. Winston Churchill and Charles Dickens were both members.
• Oriental, 1824
(Stratford Place, W1)
An 1837 account described its members as “persons who are living on fortunes amassed in India … it would be worth the while to count the number of times the words Calcutta, Bombay and Madras are pronounced in the course of a day.” Staff included Alice, a waitress who arrived for work daily at 5:30 a.m. and was employed from 1916 to 1979, when she was 91, and three hedgehogs retained to combat beetles in the kitchen.
• Oxford and Cambridge, 1830
(71 Pall Mall, SW1)
Only in 1995 were female associate members allowed to use the club’s main staircase and library, and only then upon payment of an extra £100. The introduction of newfangled gas lighting, and then electric lighting, were also resisted in their day. When the latter finally arrived, members insisted on a standing order that allowed a gentleman to call for a candle at his table: The order still stands.
To avoid confusing elderly members, staff at Pratt’s Club (1857) all answer to the name George, with the exception of waitresses, who are known as Georgina.
(15 Garrick St., WC2)
The club was named after an actor and founded with the aim of tending “to the regeneration of Drama,” though early members included a duke, five marquises, six earls, and 12 barons; today members from the worlds of television, stage, and law predominate. The club has a library of more than 10,000 volumes and owns thousands of prints, paintings, and artifacts connected with the stage. It clings to its male-only membership rule.
• Carlton, 1832
(69 St. James’s St., SW1)
Leaders of Britain’s Conservative Party have traditionally been offered full membership in the all-male Carlton Club, which presented a problem in 1975 when the leader was the future prime minister Margaret Thatcher. Rather than change its rules, the club effectively made Mrs. Thatcher an “honourary man.” She remained the only woman entitled to full, rather than associate, membership until 2008.
Combining the best of centuries-old ritual and 21st-century pampering, a few spots in town still offer a traditional straight-edge wet shave, complete with hot towels, a hearty bristled brush, and thick lather.
Austin Reed (103 Regent St., W1, austinreed.co.uk) has provided wet shaves and other face and body treatments in its lower ground floor salon since the 1930s.
Notting Hill’s unusual Carter and Bond (189 Westbourne Grove, W11, carterandbond.com) is both a retail shop (with collectibles as well as a wide range of grooming products) and a barbering establishment.
In business for more than a century, F. Flittner (86 Moorgate, EC2, fflittner.com), near Finsbury Circus, employs six barbers to see to your shaving needs.
Geo. F. Trumper (trumpers.com) has two locations in London—in Mayfair (9 Curzon St., W1) and St. James’s (1 Duke of York St., SW1). You can further your personal grooming education with a private shaving lesson at the Mayfair location to help ward off, as its website says, “common problems such as razor burn, bloodspots, ingrown hairs and redness.”
There’s no extra charge for sly humor at Jack the Clipper (4 Toynbee St., E1, jacktheclipper.co.uk), situated in the middle of Whitechapel, its semi-namesake’s hunting ground. There is also a branch in Mayfair (5 Shepherd Market, W1).
Just off Theobald’s Road, the Legends Barber Shop (12 Lamb’s Conduit Passage, WC1, thelegendsbarbershop.com) offers both wet shaves (and other grooming options) and serious classes for prospective barbers.
Pall Mall Barbers (27 Whitcomb St., WC2, pallmallbarbers.com), near Leicester Square, is an independent establishment boasting more than 25 years of experience in the straight-edge shave business. And/or try out their second location (45 Fitzroy Street, W1, southeast of Regent’s Park).
A high-end barber/self-styled gentleman’s club, Pankhurst (10 Newburgh St., W1, pankhurstlondon.com) stands parallel to ’60s mod Carnaby Street and is run by Vidal Sassoon–trained Brent Pankhurst.
A small barbershop in Maida Vale, Peter & Minos (462 Edgware Rd., W2, 0207 723 0402) has been providing haircuts and shaves to locals since 1968. The price can’t be beat—it’s only £8 ($13) for a standard hot-towel shave.
The Refinery (the-refinery.com) provides shaves as well as massages, manicures, and waxing (including a very detailed and entertaining selection of intimate waxing options that we’re too shy to list; check the website). There are locations in the basement of Harrods in Knightsbridge and at 60 Brook Street, W1, in Mayfair.
Ted Baker (tedsgroomingroom.com) offers a traditional shave with all the finer amenities in six London locations.
In business for more than 200 years, Truefitt & Hill (71 St. James’s St., SW1, truefittandhill.com) welcomed many a famous (and royal) head to its nearby Old Bond Street location for a trim and a shave. The company now has outlets all over the world.
London’s a big place, chock-full of people and animals. Over the centuries, a few of the latter have become better known than most of the former.
Goldie the Eagle (Illustrations Credits 12.2)
• Christian the Lion
In 1969, two Australian friends bought Christian the lion cub on an impulse from Harrods’ exotic pets department. The young lion lived with the men in their flat on trendy King’s Road in Chelsea, later moving to the basement of the furniture shop where they worked. Cute, cuddly, and a local celebrity, Christian gradually became, as lions are wont to do, larger and in need of bigger surroundings. Christian then moved to Kenya and was gradually reintroduced into the wild. In 1971, the men were briefly reunited with the by then semi-wild, full-size lion—the video of Christian recognizing, jumping on, and playing with his former owners has been seen by more than 100 million viewers worldwide on YouTube and TV.
• Goldie the Eagle
For nearly two weeks in 1965, everyone in London was looking for Goldie. Goldie was a golden eagle that escaped from the London Zoo, making periodic appearances in the treetops of local neighborhoods and parks. After 12 days on the lam, Goldie was finally recaptured and taken back to his enclosure, much to the relief of the smaller animals of the city that were becoming increasingly prone to being had for dinner.
• Guy the Gorilla
Guy, a western lowland gorilla, was for 30 years one of the most beloved residents of the London Zoo. He arrived as a wee baby in November 1947 (on Guy Fawkes Day, hence his moniker) and, with his gentle ways, instantly became a huge hit. As an intimidating-looking adult—weighing in at more than 500 pounds (227 kg)—he was known to carefully hold and study little birds that had accidentally landed in his enclosure before sending them flitting on their way. Guy died in 1978; a statue honoring the gentle giant was unveiled in 1982 and still stands near the zoo’s main entrance.
Jumbo the Elephant stood nearly 11 feet (3.4 m) in height and weighed 13,000 pounds (5,900 kg). His name gradually became synonymous with anything supersized.
Time was, a trip to the zoo meant a ride high atop Jumbo. Born wild in Africa in about 1861, Jumbo lived at the London Zoo starting in 1865. There the young pachyderm charmed crowds with his good nature and increasingly impressive stature. American showman P. T. Barnum bought the elephant in 1882 and took him to the United States for exhibition-over the objection of thousands of London schoolchildren, who wrote to Queen Victoria asking her to intervene. Sadly, Jumbo was killed in a train accident in Canada in 1885, but his memory lives on at Tufts University in Massachusetts, where he is the official mascot (P. T. Barnum was an early trustee of the university).
• The Queen’s Corgis
If there’s one thing we know about Queen Elizabeth II, it is that she loves her Welsh corgis. It’s a family affair: Her parents also had several of the little dogs. Since taking the throne in 1952, the Queen has owned more than 30 corgis (a few notables over the years include Crackers, Sugar, Whisky, Sherry, Monty, Emma, Linnet, Willow, and Holly).
• (The Real) Winnie the Pooh
In a string of naming connections, A. A. Milne’s lovable character Winnie the Pooh was based on his son’s stuffed teddy bear, named Winnie. The teddy bear was meanwhile named after Winnie, a live bear that his son visited and befriended at the London Zoo in 1924. Winnie the actual animal was an American Black Bear that a Canadian lieutenant brought to England at the onset of World War I-he donated the bear to the zoo once he was deployed to fight in France. Winnie lived at the zoo from 1914 until her death in 1934.
London Zoo Q&A
Approximately how much food does the zoo purchase each year to feed its animals?
• Hay 52 tons (47 tonnes)
• Bananas 32 tons (29 tonnes)
• Apples 32 tons (29 tonnes)
• Straw 31 tons (28 tonnes)
• Brown clover 29 tons (26 tonnes)
• Fish 21 tons (19 tonnes)
• Dairy pellets 20 tons (18 tonnes)
• Carrots 14 tons (13 tonnes)
• Meat 10 tons (9 tonnes)
• Oranges 5 tons (4.5 tonnes)
Head to Cliveden House for a three-hour spa treatment and lunch. (Illustrations Credits 12.3)
This is a fantasy sampler of some of the many indulgent things London has to offer. The price tags may be a bit prohibitive, but dare to dream.
1. POSH AND PAMPERED
Daytime activity
The Pavilion Spa at Cliveden House
(Cliveden House, Taplow, Berkshire, SL6, clivedenhouse.co.uk)
Indulge in the Cliveden Retreat, a three-hour spa treatment that includes massage, facial, manicure, pedicure, body wrap, and lunch in the Conservatory (£225/$360).
Transportation
U.K. Chauffeurs
(13 Ditton Rd., UB2, 020 8150 6853, uk-chauffeurs.com)
Book a limousine for the ride to and from Cliveden House. U.K. Chauffers’ Lincolns seat eight and start at £16O/$256 the first hour and £70/$112 for each additional hour.
Dinner
CUT at 45 Park Lane
(45 Park Lane, W1, 45parklane.com)
Take your limo to Wolfgang Puck’s first restaurant in Europe and indulge in an eight-ounce rib eye steak made of 100 percent Wagyu beef for £92/$147.
After-dinner drink
Salvatore’s Bar at the Playboy Club London
(14 Old Park Lane, W1, playboyclublondon.com)
Try the Calabrese Legacy cocktail. Each of the ingredients—cognac, kümmel, curaçao, and bitters—is more than 200 years old. It’s only £5,500/$8,800.
Accommodations
The Dorchester
(53 Park Lane, W1, thedorchester.com)
Stay in the Harlequin Suite, the largest (2,242 square feet/208 sq m) of the hotel’s three roof suites, overlooking Hyde Park: £9,320/$14,900.
2. ROYAL RIVER VIEWS
Daytime activity
Tour the city
berkeleychauffeurs.com Berkeley Chauffeurs will drive you to London’s most famous sites in a luxury Mercedes S Class car (£48o/$770 for eight hours).
Pre-dinner activity
The Shard
(Joiner St., SE1, theviewfromtheshard.com)
Stop at the Shard for some of London’s most spectacular views (£29.95/$48).
Dinner
River Café
(Thames Wharf, Rainville Rd., W6, rivercafe.co.uk)
Have the chauffeur drive you a half hour west to this waterfront restaurant along the northern bank of the Thames. Snag a magnum bottle of the 1990 Billecart-Salmon Grand Cuvee champagne for £900/$1,440 or (if you’re exceptionally thirsty and rich) the five-liter 2000 Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia for £2,400/$3,840.
Transportation from dinner
Chelsea Flyer (thamesflyer.com)
Send the car home and travel back east on the water with the Thames VIP Transfer. The closed-cabin luxury boat can pick you up near the restaurant at Dove Pier Hammersmith and deliver you to Embankment Pier near the Savoy hotel for £599/$960 per hour. Throw in a bonus bottle of champagne for £55/$88.
Accommodations
The Savoy
(Strand, WC2, fairmont.com/savoy-london)
Sleep tight in the Royal Suite. Among the niceties: eight windows with sweeping views overlooking the river, a dining room that seats eight, a service kitchen for those traveling with a personal chef, and a personal butler on call 24 hours a day (£10,000/$16,000 per night).
The Savoy hotel on the Strand reopened in October 2010 after a three-year refurbishment. The extensive renovations cost a whopping £220 million ($352 million) to complete.
Morning activity
John Lobb Ltd.
(St. James’s St., SW1, johnlobbltd.co.uk)
Have yourself fitted for bespoke shoes at this venerable London institution. We recommend the Crocodile Shoes for approximately £9,700/$15,500.
Transportation
Signature Car Hire
Have Signature Car Hire meet you at the shoe shop with a Ferrari 458 Spider for you to get around today. The two-seaters have a minimum two-day rental and cost £1,695/$2,700 per day. (Remember, money is no object, so we’ll pay for two days but only use it for one.)
Afternoon activity
The Grove
(Chandler’s Cross, Hertfordshire, WD3, thegrove.co.uk)
Drive out to Hertfordshire, where a round of golf is in order at the Grove championship course. Green fees are £185/$295 on summer weekends, equipment costs £45/$72 to rent, and a personal caddy adds £50/$80.
Dinner
Restaurant Gordon Ramsay
(68 Royal Hospital Rd., SW3, gordonramsay.com/royalhospitalroad)
Then drive back to town to Gordon Ramsay’s flagship restaurant for dinner. Order from the Menu Prestige (a fixed price of £135/$215) and enjoy a fine (three Michelin stars) meal. You might as well order a bottle of the 1920 Château Mouton Rothschild 2ème cru classé (Bordeaux red) for £10,000/$16,000.
Accommodations
The Ritz London
(150 Piccadilly, W1, theritzlondon.com)
Ditch the car (you’ve been drinking wine) and taxi it to the Ritz, where your Prince of Wales Suite awaits. It’s 1,990 square feet (185 sq m) of luxury at £10,200/$16,320 per night.
4. LIVE LIKE A QUEEN
Getting around is a breeze when your hotel includes a complimentary Rolls-Royce Phantom and chauffeur. Let’s all thank the Lanesborough.
Shopping
Bond Street/Harrods shopping
(harrywinston.com, prada.com, alexandermcqueen.com)
“All guests at The Lanesborough Hotel are received as honoured guests … and cared for by personal butlers. Within the comfort of your own bedroom, your butler … will be on hand as and when required with complete discretion.”
~From the Lanesborough Hotel website
Spend your afternoon shopping at Bond Street’s high-end stores, such as Harry Winston, Prada, or Alexander McQueen.
Pre-opera dinner
The Ivy
(1 West St., WC2, the-ivy.co.uk)
Have an early dinner at the Ivy in the West End, once the haunt of all the celebrities and stars (and still the haunt of some celebrities and stars). Try the roasted Devonshire chicken (for two) for £44/$70.
Evening activity
Royal Opera House
(Bow St., WC2, roh.org.uk)
Then it’s time for culture at the opera. Prices vary, but go for a box (four seats) at up to £230/$370 each.
After-theater drink
Chinawhite
(4 Winsley St., W1, chinawhite.com)
After the fat lady sings, head to Chinawhite nightclub near Oxford Circus. Order a Golden Cocktail, made with Hennessy Paradis Imperial cognac and Luxor 24-karat gold leaf champagne. Don’t gulp it down—the cocktail also includes a pair of handmade 18-karat gold rings at the bottom of the glass. Seems a steal at £2,012/$3,220.
Accommodations
The Lanesborough
(Hyde Park Corner, SW1, lanesborough.com)
Sporting your new rings, have the Lanesborough driver take you home for a well-deserved night’s rest. Your sprawling 4,000-square-foot (380 sq m) suite—the aptly named Lanesborough—has floor-to-ceiling views across to Green Park, four bedrooms, five and a half bathrooms, butler service, and fresh fruit replenished daily (and for £18,000/$28,800 per night, it really should).
Sleep in style at the Savoy hotel. (Illustrations Credits 12.4)