Wittenberg and Cornell Mountains
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DISTANCE: 9.4 miles TYPE: Out and back TOTAL ELEVATION GAIN: 2,480 feet MAXIMUM ELEVATION: 3,860 feet DIFFICULTY: Strenuous HIKING TIME: 6 hours |
Located in the Slide Mountain Wilderness, Cornell and Wittenberg make up the eastern half of the Burroughs Range. From these two mountains, you’ll enjoy sweeping views and unique natural rock formations. The ascent is intense, however, so be prepared and make sure you have plenty of time set aside to fully enjoy this hike. Slide Mountain, the tallest peak in the Catskills, sits 2 miles to the west of Cornell and Wittenberg along the same footpath, drawing significant attention to the area, so expect to see a number of people hiking this historic trail as well. This range was named after renowned nature essayist John Burroughs, who was known to frequent these particular mountains.
GETTING THERE
From the New York State Thruway, take Exit 19 (Kingston) and pick up NY-28 heading west. Follow NY-28 West for 23 miles. Half a mile after passing the town of Phoenicia, turn left onto Woodland Valley Road. Woodland Valley Road crosses the Esopus Creek and turns right. Stay on Woodland Valley Road for 4 miles as it bends to the south. The parking area is a large dirt pull-off next to Woodland Valley Campground. It will be on the right side of the road.
GPS SHORTCUT
Type “Woodland Valley Campground, Phoenicia, NY” into Google Maps and your GPS will navigate you to the appropriate trailhead.
THE TRAIL
From the parking area, follow a series of wooden signs that lead you down and across the road a few hundred feet to the trailhead. Shortly after you enter the woods, cross the Woodland Creek on a nice footbridge. The Phoenicia–East Branch Trail and the Burroughs Range Trail share tread here, following red markers for 2.8 miles. After crossing the bridge, the trail will ascend, climbing fairly aggressively for about a mile.
Continue to follow the red markers uphill. The trail will make a sharp left turn and begin a much easier grade, eventually leading you to the wooded edge of a very steep drop-off. You can see partial views of Terrace Mountain to the east and the valley below through the trees. The trail follows the ledge for about half a mile before gently bending to the left, cutting across the northern shoulder of the mountain. The path meanders through a peaceful forest, occasionally crossing small streams that cascade downhill. This area can be wet and muddy even in dry seasons, so take your time and place your footsteps carefully.
After hiking for 2.6 miles, you will come to an intersection. A yellow-blazed trail breaks off to the left, descending to Terrace Mountain in just under a mile. There are nice views from an exposed rocky area about halfway down this trail, as well as a shelter at the very end. Taking a side trip to visit these attractions will add an additional 2 miles to your hike.
LIGHT SNOW ON THE WAY TO THE WITTENBERG SUMMIT
Turn right at the trail junction and continue your course along the red-blazed trail. In 0.2 mile of easy walking, the Phoenicia–East Branch Trail breaks off to the left, following blue markers. Ignore this trail, and follow the red blazes uphill. After this point, the trail will begin a very steep ascent, climbing about 1,000 feet up rocky terrain. A number of switchbacks will help you along the way, but you will still have to scramble up many difficult sections over rocks and roots.
When you are near the top, the forest will transition to mostly spruce and balsam fir. The trail will remain very rocky, but the grade will lessen, giving you a chance to catch your breath. Reach the summit of Wittenberg Mountain 1.1 miles after passing the turnoff for the blue-blazed trail. The vista is a long exposed ledge that faces southeast, giving you fantastic views of the Ashokan Reservoir, Ashokan High Point, and other smaller mountains. This is one of the best views in the Catskills, and thus, it is often very busy. You’ll want to set aside time to rest here, enjoy a snack, and take in the scenery.
LOOKING SOUTH TO THE ASHOKAN RESEVOIR
Continue to follow the red blazes, entering the woods at the far end of the vista. The trail will drop in elevation slightly as you come to the col between Cornell Mountain and Wittenberg Mountain, passing some interesting rock formations on the way. The grade is easy here, as you traverse a narrow spine that connects the two peaks through a very enjoyable conifer forest. The trail will begin a moderate ascent toward the summit of Cornell Mountain. You will know you are almost there when you come to a large split in a tall stone ledge. This is known as Cornell Crack, the final obstacle you encounter before reaching the top. You will have to use your hands as you climb this narrow gap, but thankfully the stone is very grippy and makes climbing relatively easy.
A few hundred feet after passing through Cornell Crack, you will reach the summit of Cornell Mountain, 0.8 mile from Wittenberg Mountain. There are obstructed views to the southeast here, as well as better views facing west toward Slide Mountain, Giant Ledge, and Panther Mountain, a short distance past the summit.
When you are ready to leave, retrace your steps to the viewpoint on Wittenberg Mountain and descend back to your vehicle by the way you came. Be extra careful as you go down Cornell Crack, as it may be easier to go up than to go down.
