MACHU PICCHU
Machu Picchu at a Glance…
For many visitors to Peru and even South America, a visit to the Inca city of Machu Picchu is the long-anticipated high point of their trip. In a spectacular location, it’s the best-known archaeological site on the continent.
This awe-inspiring ancient city was never revealed to the conquering Spaniards and was virtually forgotten until the early part of the 20th century. Now, in the high season from late May until early September, 2500 people arrive daily. Despite this great tourist influx, the site manages to retain an air of grandeur and mystery, and is a must for all visitors to Peru.
Machu Picchu in Two Days
Machu Picchu is huge, so it’s best to spend at least two days, using Aguas Calientes as a base camp to allow ample time to explore the ruins. Staying in town also allows you to get up early and beat the midday crowds at Machu Picchu. If you are also climbing Wayna Picchu or Cerro Machu Picchu, you may need even more time.
Machu Picchu in Four Days
Alternatively, put aside at least four days to hike the Inca Trail, with time to return and recover from the strenuous trek. The ancient trail was laid by the Incas, from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu. You will push yourself up and down across mountains, past rivers and lakes, and feel proud to reach Machu Picchu on day four.
Arriving in Machu Picchu
Unless taking a trek on the Inca Trail, Aguas Calientes is the entry point to Machu Picchu. Cuzco is the launching point to Aguas Calientes.
Bus From Aguas Calientes, the only option up to Machu Picchu is a 20-minute bus ride.
Air The nearest airport is in Cuzco, which only serves Bolivia or domestic flights. Entry to Peru is always via Lima.
Where to Stay
Lodgings in Aguas Calientes are consistently overpriced – probably costing two-thirds more than counterparts in less exclusive locations. Yet spending the night offers one distinct advantage: early access to Machu Picchu, which turns out to be a pretty good reason to stay.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Visiting Machu Picchu
A sublime stone citadel. A staggering cloud-forest perch. And a backstory that’s out of a movie. Machu Picchu is an extraordinary Inca settlement and Unesco World Heritage site.
o Top Tip
Try to visit outside peak times (between 10am and 2pm); June through August are the busiest months.
Unless you arrive via the Inca Trail, you’ll officially enter the ruins through a ticket gate on the south side of Machu Picchu. About 100m of footpath brings you to the mazelike main entrance of Machu Picchu proper, where the ruins lie stretched out before you, roughly divided into two areas separated by a series of plazas.
Entrance tickets often sell out: buy them in advance in Cuzco. Guests can only enter until 4pm, though those inside are not expelled until 5pm. Check for changes in online purchasing: it is possible to use debit cards, but only for adult entry (to the ruins, Wayna Picchu and Cerro Machu Picchu). Student and child admission cannot be purchased online. The site is limited to 2500 visitors daily, with 400 paid spots for hiking Wayna Picchu and Cerro Machu Picchu. While the government has tried enforcing set, limited hours for each visit, at present entrance remains more loosely controlled.
Local guides (per person S150, in groups of six to 10 S30) are readily available for hire at the entrance. Their expertise varies; look for one wearing an official guide ID from DIRCETUR.
Note that the names of individual ruins speculate their use – in reality, much is unknown. To get a visual fix of the whole site and to snap the classic postcard photograph, climb the zigzagging staircase on the left immediately after entering the complex, which leads to the Hut of the Caretake of the Funeraray Rock.
Inside the Complex
Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock
The Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock offers an excellent viewpoint to take in the whole site. It’s one of a few buildings that has been restored with a thatched roof, making it a good shelter in the case of rain. The Inca Trail enters the city just below this hut. The carved rock behind the hut may have been used to mummify the nobility, hence the hut’s name.
y Don’t Miss
Museo de Sitio Manuel Chávez Ballón, by Puente Ruinas at the base of the climb to Machu Picchu.
Ceremonial Baths
If you head straight into the ruins from the main entry gate, you pass through extensive terracing to a beautiful series of 16 connected ceremonial baths that cascade across the ruins, accompanied by a flight of stairs.
Temple of the Sun
Just above and to the left of the ceremonial baths is Machu Picchu’s only round building, a curved and tapering tower of exceptional stonework.
Royal Tomb
Below the Temple of the Sun, this almost-hidden, natural rock cave was carefully carved by Inca stonemasons. Its use is highly debated; though known as the Royal Tomb, no mummies were actually ever found here.
Sacred Plaza
Climbing the stairs above the ceremonial baths, there is a flat area of jumbled rocks, once used as a quarry. Turn right at the top of the stairs and walk across the quarry on a short path leading to the four-sided Sacred Plaza. The far side contains a small viewing platform with a curved wall, which offers a view of the snowy Cordillera Vilcabamba in the far distance and the Río Urubamba below.
Temple of the Three Windows
Important buildings flank the remaining three sides of the Sacred Plaza. The Temple of the Three Windows features huge trapezoidal windows that give the building its name.
Principal Temple
The ‘temple’ derives its name from the massive solidity and perfection of its construction. The damage to the rear right corner is the result of the ground settling below this corner rather than any inherent weakness in the masonry itself.
5 Take a Break
Bring drinking water. Bringing food is not officially allowed.
House of the High Priest
Little is known about these mysterious ruins, located opposite the Principal Temple.
Sacristy
Behind and connected to the Principal Temple lies this famous small building. It has many well-carved niches, perhaps used for the storage of ceremonial objects, as well as a carved stone bench. The Sacristy is especially known for the two rocks flanking its entrance; each is said to contain 32 angles, but it’s easy to come up with a different number whenever you count them.
Intihuatana
This Quechua word loosely translates as the ‘Hitching Post of the Sun’ and refers to the carved rock pillar, often mistakenly called a sundial, at the top of the Intihuatana hill. The Inca astronomers were able to predict the solstices using the angles of this pillar. Thus, they were able to claim control over the return of the lengthening summer days. Its exact use remains unclear, but its elegant simplicity and high craftwork make it a highlight.
Central Plaza
The plaza separates the ceremonial sector from the residential and industrial areas.
Prison Group
At the lower end of this area is the Prison Group, a labyrinthine complex of cells, niches and passageways, positioned both under and above the ground.
Temple of the Condor
This ‘temple’ is named for a carving of the head of a condor with rock outcrops as outstretched wings. It is considered the centerpiece of the Prison Group.
8 Need to Know
Walking sticks or backpacks over 20L are not allowed into the ruins. There are baggage-check offices outside the entrance gate (S5 per item; 6am–4pm).
B Read All About It
For really in-depth explorations, take along a copy of Exploring Cuzco by Peter Frost.
Intipunku
(hcheckpoint closes around 3pm) The Inca Trail ends after its final descent from the notch in the horizon called Intipunku (Sun Gate). Looking at the hill behind you as you enter the ruins, you can see both the trail and Intipunku. This hill, called Machu Picchu (old peak), gives the site its name.
Access here from Machu Picchu ruins may be restricted. It takes about an hour to reach Intipunku. If you can spare at least a half-day for the round-trip, it may be possible to continue as far as Wiñay Wayna. Expect to pay S15 or more as an unofficial reduced-charge admission fee to the Inca Trail, and be sure to return before 3pm, which is when the checkpoint typically closes.
Inca Drawbridge
A scenic but level walk from the Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock takes you right past the top of the terraces and out along a narrow, cliff-clinging trail to the Inca drawbridge. In under a half-hour’s walk, the trail gives you a good look at cloud-forest vegetation and an entirely different view of Machu Picchu. This walk is recommended, though you’ll have to be content with photographing the bridge from a distance, as someone crossed the bridge some years ago and tragically fell to their death.
Wayna Picchu
Wayna Picchu is the small, steep mountain at the back of the ruins. Wayna Picchu is normally translated as ‘Young Peak,’ but the word picchu, with the correct glottal pronunciation, refers to the wad in the cheek of a coca-leaf chewer. Access to Wayna Picchu is limited to 400 people per day: the first 200 in line are let in at 7am, and another 200 at 10am. A ticket (S24), which includes a visit to the Moon Temple, may only be obtained when you purchase your Machu Picchu entrance ticket. These spots sell out a week in advance in low season and a month in advance in high season, so plan accordingly.
At first glance, it would appear that Wayna Picchu is a challenging climb but, although the ascent is steep, it’s not technically difficult. However, it is not recommended if you suffer from vertigo. Hikers must sign in and out at a registration booth located beyond the central plaza between two thatched buildings. The 45- to 90-minute scramble up a steep footpath takes you through a short section of Inca tunnel.
Take care in wet weather as the steps get dangerously slippery. The trail is easy to follow, but involves steep sections, a ladder and an overhanging cave, where you have to bend over to get by. Part way up Wayna Picchu, a marked path plunges down to your left, continuing down the rear of Wayna Picchu to the small Temple of the Moon. From the temple, another cleared path leads up behind the ruin and steeply onward up the back side of Wayna Picchu.
The descent takes about an hour, and the ascent back to the main Wayna Picchu trail longer. The spectacular trail drops and climbs steeply as it hugs the sides of Wayna Picchu before plunging into the cloud forest. Suddenly, you reach a cleared area where the small, very well-made ruins are found.
Cerro Machu Picchu (S24) is a very good alternative if you miss out on Wayna Picchu tickets.
o Top Tip
There are no signposts here – it’s not a museum – so read up or hire a guide.
y Don’t Miss
Hiking an hour to Intipunku for a different angle overlooking Machu Picchu. It’s also a popular spot to witness the sun rise.
The Mystery of Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu is not mentioned in any of the chronicles of the Spanish conquistadors. Nobody apart from local Quechua people knew of Machu Picchu’s existence until American historian Hiram Bingham was guided to it by locals in 1911.
Despite scores of more recent studies, knowledge of Machu Picchu remains sketchy. Even today archaeologists are forced to rely heavily on speculation and educated guesswork as to its function. Some believe the citadel was founded in the waning years of the last Incas as an attempt to preserve Inca culture or rekindle their predominance, while others think that it may have already become an uninhabited, forgotten city at the time of the conquest.
A more recent theory suggests that the site was a royal retreat or the country palace of Pachacutec, abandoned at the time of the Spanish invasion. The site’s director believes that it was a city, a political, religious and administrative center. Its location, and the fact that at least eight access routes have been discovered, suggests that it was a trade nexus between Amazonia and the highlands.
It seems clear from the exceptionally high quality of the stonework and the abundance of ornamental work that Machu Picchu was once vitally important as a ceremonial center. Indeed, to some extent, it still is: Alejandro Toledo, the country’s first indigenous Andean president, impressively staged his inauguration here in 2001.
Read Up on the Ruins
If you are wondering what it’s like to hike the Inca Trail, or its lesser-known alternatives, pick up Mark Adams’ Turn Right at Machu Picchu (2010). Not a hero’s tale, the humorous travelogue is a first-person account of one adventure editor bumbling out into the wild. On the way, it provides an entertaining layman’s look at Inca history and the striving explorations of Hiram Bingham.
TOP EXPERIENCE
The Inca Trail
The views of snowy mountain peaks, distant rivers and cloud forests are stupendous – and walking from one cliff-hugging pre-Columbian ruin to the next is a mystical and unforgettable experience.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Hot springs in the towns along the way, which will help weary hiking legs to recover.
8 Need to Know
Most trekking agencies run buses to the start of the trail, also known as Piscacucho or Km 82.
5 Take a Break
Most tours include meals and snacks. Bring a refillable water bottle.
o Top Tip
The Inca Trail is best visited in the dry season, April to October, and is closed in February.
The most famous hike in South America, the four-day Inca Trail is walked by thousands every year. Although the total distance is only about 39km (24 miles), the ancient trail laid by the Incas from the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu winds its way up and down and around the mountains, snaking over three high Andean passes en route, which have collectively led to the route being dubbed ‘the Inca Trial.’
Booking Your Trip
It is important to book your trip at least six months in advance for dates between May and August. Outside these months, you may get a permit with a few weeks’ notice, but it’s very hard to predict. Only licensed operators can get permits, but you can check general availability at www.camino-inca.com.
Consider booking a five-day trip to lessen the pace and enjoy more wildlife and ruins. Other positives include less-crowded campsites and being able to stay at the most scenic one – Phuyupatamarka (3600m) – on the third evening.
Make sure you have international travel insurance that covers adventure activities.
Regulations & Fees
The Inca Trail is the only trek in the Cuzco area that cannot be walked independently – you must go with a licensed operator. Prices range from US$550 to US$1465 and above.
Only 500 people each day (including guides and porters) are allowed to start the trail. You must go through an approved Inca Trail operator. Permits are issued to them on a first-come, first-served basis. You will need to provide your passport number to get a permit, and carry the passport with you to show at checkpoints along the trail. Be aware that if you get a new passport but had applied with your old, it may present a problem.
Permits are nontransferrable: name changes are not allowed.
Choosing an Operator
While it may be tempting to quickly book your trek and move onto the next item on your To Do list, it’s a good idea to examine the options carefully before sending that deposit. If price is your bottom line, keep in mind that agencies charging less than US$500 may cut corners by paying their guides and porters lower wages. Other issues are substandard gear (ie leaky tents) and dull or lackadaisical guiding.
Yet paying more may not mean getting more, especially since international operators take their cut and hire local Peruvian agencies. Talk with a few agencies to get a sense of their quality of service. You might ask if the guide speaks English (fluently or just a little), request a list of what is included and inquire about group size and the kind of transportation used. Ensure that your tour includes a tent, food, a cook, one-day admission to the ruins and the return train fare.
Porters who carry group gear – tents, food etc – are also included. You’ll be expected to carry your own personal gear, including sleeping bag. If you are not an experienced backpacker, it may be a good idea to hire a porter to carry your personal gear; this usually costs around US$50 per day for about 10kg.
Part of the fun is meeting travelers from other parts of the world in your trekking group. Keep in mind that individual paces vary and the group dynamic requires some compromise.
If you prefer more exclusive services, it’s possible to organize private trips with an independent licensed guide (US$1250 to US$2000 per person). This can be expensive but for groups of six or more it may in fact be cheaper than the standard group treks. Prices vary considerably, so shop around.
For a list of agencies and guides based in Cuzco, see (here).
o Top Tip
On the trail, get your next day’s water hot in a well-sealed bottle; you can use it as a sleeping bag warmer and it will be cool to drink by the time you’re hiking.
The Two-Day Inca Trail
This 10km version of the Inca Trail gives a fairly good indication of what the longer trail is like. It’s a real workout, and passes through some of the best scenery and most impressive ruins and terracing of the longer trail.
It’s a steep three- or four-hour climb from Km 104 to Wiñay Wayna, then another two hours or so on fairly flat terrain to Machu Picchu. You may be on the trail a couple of hours longer, just to enjoy the views and explore. We advise taking the earliest train possible from Cuzco or Ollantaytambo.
The two-day trail means overnighting in Aguas Calientes, and visiting Machu Picchu the next day, so it’s really only one day of walking. The average price is US$400 to US$535.
What to Expect
Even if you are not carrying a full backpack, trekking the Inca Trail requires a good level of fitness. In addition to regularly exercising, you can get ready with hikes and long walks in the weeks before your trip (also a good time to test out your gear). Boots should be already worn in by the time you go. On the trail, you may have to deal with issues such as heat and altitude. Just don’t rush it; keep a reasonable pace and you should do fine.
Day One
After crossing the Río Urubamba (2600m) and taking care of registration formalities, you’ll climb gently alongside the river to the trail’s first archaeological site, Llactapata (Town on Top of the Terraces), before heading south down a side valley of the Río Cusichaca. (If you start from Km 88, turn west after crossing the river to see the little-visited site of Q’ente, about 1km away, then return east to Llactapata on the main trail.)
The trail leads 7km south to the hamlet of Wayllabamba (Grassy Plain; 3000m), near which many tour groups will camp for the first night. You can buy bottled drinks and high-calorie snacks here, and take a breather to look over your shoulder for views of the snowcapped Nevado Verónica (5750m).
Day Two
Wayllabamba is situated near the fork of Ríos Llullucha and Cusichaca. The trail crosses the Río Llullucha, then climbs steeply up along the river. This area is known as Tres Piedras (Three White Stones; 3300m), though these boulders are no longer visible. From here it is a long, very steep 3km climb through humid woodlands.
The trail eventually emerges on the high, bare mountainside of Llulluchupampa (3750m), where water is available and the flats are dotted with campsites, which get very cold at night. This is as far as you can reasonably expect to get on your first day, though many groups will actually spend their second night here.
From Llulluchupampa, a good path up the left-hand side of the valley climbs for a two- to three-hour ascent to the pass of Warmiwañusca, also colorfully known as ‘Dead Woman’s Pass.’ At 4200m above sea level, this is the highest point of the trek, and leaves many a seasoned hiker gasping. From Warmiwañusca, you can see the Río Pacamayo (Río Escondido) far below, as well as the ruin of Runkurakay halfway up the next hill, above the river.
The trail continues down a long and knee-jarringly steep descent to the river, where there are large campsites at Paq’amayo. At an altitude of about 3600m, the trail crosses the river over a small footbridge and climbs toward Runkurakay; at 3750m this round ruin has superb views. It’s about an hour’s walk away.
y Don’t Forget
Take cash (in Peruvian soles) for tipping; an adequate amount is S100 for a porter and S200 for a cook.
Day Three
Above Runkurakay, the trail climbs to a false summit before continuing past two small lakes to the top of the second pass at 3950m, which has views of the snow-laden Cordillera Vilcabamba. You’ll notice a change in ecology as you descend from this pass – you’re now on the eastern, Amazon slope of the Andes and things immediately get greener. The trail descends to the ruin of Sayaqmarka, a tightly constructed complex perched on a small mountain spur, which offers incredible views. The trail continues downward and crosses an upper tributary of the Río Aobamba (Wavy Plain).
The trail then leads on across an Inca causeway and up a gentle climb through some beautiful cloud forest and an Inca tunnel carved from the rock. This is a relatively flat section and you’ll soon arrive at the third pass at almost 3600m, which has grand views of the Río Urubamba Valley, and campsites where some groups spend their final night, with the advantage of watching the sun set over a truly spectacular view, but with the disadvantage of having to leave at 3am in the race to reach the Sun Gate in time for sunrise. If you are camping here, be careful in the early morning as the steep incline makes the following steps slippery.
Just below the pass is the beautiful and well-restored ruin of Phuyupatamarka (City Above the Clouds), about 3570m above sea level. The site contains six beautiful ceremonial baths with water running through them. From Phuyupatamarka, the trail makes a dizzying dive into the cloud forest below, following an incredibly well-engineered flight of many hundreds of Inca steps (it’s nerve-racking in the early hours – use a headlamp). After two or three hours, the trail eventually zigzags its way down to a collapsed red-roofed white building that marks the final night’s campsite.
A 500m trail behind the old, out of use, pub leads to the exquisite little Inca site of Wiñay Wayna, which is variously translated as ‘Forever Young,’ ‘To Plant the Earth Young’ and ‘Growing Young’ (as opposed to ‘growing old’). Peter Frost writes that the Quechua name refers to an orchid (Epidendrum secundum) that blooms here year-round. The semitropical campsite at Wiñay Wayna boasts one of the most stunning views on the whole trail, especially at sunrise. For better or worse, the famous pub located here is now deteriorated and no longer functioning. A rough trail leads from this site to another spectacular terraced ruin, called Intipata, best visited on the day you arrive at Wiñay Wayna (consider coordinating it with your guide if you are interested).
o Top Tip
As a courtesy, don’t occupy the dining tent until late if it’s where the porters sleep.
Day Four
From the Wiñay Wayna guard post, the trail winds without much change in elevation through the cliff-hanging cloud forest for about two hours to reach Intipunku (Sun Gate) – the penultimate site on the trail, where it’s tradition to enjoy your first glimpse of majestic Machu Picchu while waiting for the sun to rise over the surrounding mountains.
The final triumphant descent takes almost an hour. Trekkers generally arrive long before the morning trainloads of tourists, and can enjoy the exhausted exhilaration of reaching their goal without having to push past enormous groups of visitors.
Aguas Calientes
Also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, this town lies in a deep gorge below the ruins. A virtual island, it’s cut off from all roads and enclosed by stone cliffs, towering cloud forest and two rushing rivers. Despite its gorgeous location, Aguas Calientes has the feel of a gold-rush town, with a large itinerant population, slack services that count on one-time customers and an architectural tradition of rebar and unfinished cement. With merchants pushing the hard sell, it’s hard not to feel overwhelmed. Your best bet is to go without expectations.
1 Sights
Museo de Sitio Manuel Chávez Ballón Museum
(admission S22; h9am-5pm) This museum has superb information in Spanish and English on the archaeological excavations of Machu Picchu and Inca building methods. Stop here before or after the ruins to get a sense of context (and to enjoy the air-conditioning and soothing music if you’re walking back from the ruins after hours in the sun).
There’s a small botanical garden with orchids outside, down a cool-if-nerve-testing set of Inca stairs. It’s by Puente Ruinas, at the base of the footpath to Machu Picchu.
Las Termas Hot Springs
(admission S10; h5am-8:30pm) Weary trekkers soak away their aches and pains in the town’s hot springs, 10 minutes’ walk up Pachacutec from the train tracks. These tiny, natural thermal springs, from which Aguas Calientes derives its name, are nice enough but far from the best in the area, and get scummy by late morning.
Towels can be rented cheaply outside the entrance.
2 Activities
Putucusi Hiking
At the time of writing this steep hike was closed for serious maintenance. The toothy mini-mountain sits directly opposite Machu Picchu.
Follow the railway tracks about 250m west of town and you’ll see a set of stairs; this is the start of a well-marked trail. Parts of the walk are up ladders, which get slippery in the wet season, but the view across to Machu Picchu is worth the trek. Allow three hours.
5 Eating
Touts standing in the street will try to herd you into their restaurant, but take your time making a selection. Standards are not very high in most restaurants – if you go to one that hasn’t been recommended, snoop around to check the hygiene first. Since refrigeration can be a problem, it’s best to order vegetarian if you’re eating in low-end establishments.
La Boulangerie de Paris Bakery $
(%084-79-7798; Jr Sinchi Roca s/n; snacks S3-10; h5am-9pm; W) We don’t know how this French bakery got here, we’re just thankful. This small cafe sells pain au chocolat (croissants stuffed with chocolate), fresh croissants, espresso drinks and desserts, with a few gluten-free items. You can also order boxed lunches.
Indio Feliz French $$
(%084-21-1090; Lloque Yupanqui 4; mains S34-48; h11am-10pm) Hospitality is the strong suit of French cook Patrik at this multi-award-winning restaurant, but the food does not disappoint. Start with sopa criolla (a potent and flavorful broth, served with hot bread, homemade butter and optional chilis). There are also nods to traditional French cooking – like Provençal tomatoes, crispy-perfect garlic potatoes and a melt-in-your-mouth apple tart.
The candlelit decor shows the imagination of a long-lost castaway with imitation Gauguin panels, carved figurehead damsels, colonial benches and vintage objects. The menú (set meal; S69) is an extremely good value for a decadent dinner. Indio Feliz has good wheelchair access and was in the process of adding an upstairs bar and terrace when we visited, which provides another reason not to leave here.
Tree House Fusion $$
(%084-21-1101; Huanacaure s/n; S38-52; h4:30am-10pm) The rustic ambience of Tree House provides a cozy setting for its inviting fusion menu served alongside South American wines, craft beers and cocktails. Dishes such as chicken soup with wontons and ginger, red quinoa risotto and crispy trout are lovingly prepared. For dessert, lip-smacking fruit crumble. It has raw and vegan options. Reserve ahead. It’s part of the Rupa Wasi hotel.
Café Inkaterra Peruvian $$$
(%084-21-1122; Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel; menú lunch/dinner S54/90; h11am-9pm; v) Upstream from the train station, this tucked-away riverside restaurant is housed in elongated thatched rooms with views of water tumbling over the boulders. There’s only a set menu (starter, main dish and dessert), with gluten-free and vegetarian options. The perfectly executed lomo saltado (strips of beef stir-fried with tomatoes, potatoes and chili) features a flavorful sauce and crisp red onions.
8 INFORMATION
BCP (Av Imperio de los Incas s/n) If this bank runs out of money (weekends are busiest), there are four others in town, including one on Av Imperio de los Incas.
Centro Cultural (Machu Picchu Tickets; %084-81-1196; Av Pachacutec; h5:30am-8:30pm) This new cultural center is the only spot in town selling Machu Picchu entrance tickets.
iPerú (%084-21-1104; cuadra 1, Pachacutec; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) A helpful information center for everything Machu Picchu.
8 GETTING THERE & AROUND
There are only three options to get to Aguas Calientes, and hence to Machu Picchu: trek it, catch the train via Cuzco and the Sacred Valley, or travel by road and train via Santa Teresa.
TRAIN
Buy a return ticket to avoid getting stranded in Aguas Calientes – outbound trains sell out much quicker than their inbound counterparts. All train companies have ticket offices in the train station, but you can check their websites for up-to-date schedules and ticket purchases.
To Cuzco (three hours), PeruRail (www.perurail.com) has service to Poroy, from where taxis connect to the city, another 20 minutes away.
To the Sacred Valley’s Ollantaytambo (two hours), both Peru Rail and Inca Rail (www.incarail.com) provide service.
To Santa Teresa (45 minutes), Peru Rail travels at 8:53am, 2:55pm and 9:50pm daily, with other departures for residents only. Tickets (US$26) can only be bought from Aguas Calientes train station on the day of departure, but trains actually leave from the west end of town, outside the police station. You can also do this route as a guided multisport tour.
BUS
There is no road access to Aguas Calientes. The only buses go up the hill to Machu Picchu (round-trip S72, 25 minutes) from 5:30am to 3:30pm; buses return until 5:45pm.
