No homestead, even on the smallest scale, is possible without a kitchen herb garden. From the earliest known examples of single-family gardens, herbs were grown for medicinal and culinary purposes—and often both at the same time. Even the makings for a soothing cup of tea were grown right at home, and there’s no reason not to be able to do the same on your backyard farm.
Herbs that are used for health and wellness have a time-honored tradition on the homestead where self-sufficiency is a default setting. In this section I cover herbs that are grown primarily for medicinal uses. While many culinary herbs such as thyme and rosemary also have healthful benefits, this section focuses on herbs that aren’t typically used in the kitchen.
See Chapter 20 for information on creating herbal preparations from home-grown plant materials.
THORNY MATTERS
While herbs can impart benefits for most people, there is a time to seek professional medical advice. This section is the barest introduction to herbal medicine and is in no way intended as medical advice, only a discussion of historical uses and current research.
Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
This beautiful and cheerful plant has the common name pot marigold because of the marigoldlike flowers. Easy to start from seeds, you can direct sow at the last frost date or start indoors before transplanting. Calendula thrives with plenty of sunshine but appreciates a touch of shade in the heat of the afternoon. It will not tolerate high heat, so harvest flowers early in the summer if your region is prone to extreme summers.
Calendula is a hardy annual that self-seeds with ease. This habit to produce volunteer seedlings makes it well suited to a prairie grass plot, cottage garden, or other informal growing area. Almost any soil will do as long as it drains well.
Hardy annuals are plants that will often return the following year from self-sown seeds. It isn’t the parent plant that survives, as with perennials, but rather new plants that appear from seeds that were produced from the first plant and survived over the winter.
If overcrowded, calendula can be susceptible to powdery mildew. Slugs and aphids can pester tender young plants but are rarely a serious bother.
While the flowers are edible and can be added to summer salads, the herb is most often used for wellness as a poultice. It is effective for treating skin irritations of all kinds, and that is one of calendula’s primary uses.
Beginning in late spring when the flowers appear, you can begin harvesting the blooms. Calendula flower heads can be used fresh, or preserved through drying, freezing, or infusing in oil.
Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile)
Chamomile is one of the most common herbal teas and is an easy herb to grow in the home garden. Informal growth habits make it a perfect plant for cottage garden border or kitchen herb container. Both the leaves and the flowers are used in herbal preparations and potpourri.
Chamomile is a hardy annual so it reseeds itself and usually comes back each year. The flowers are small and daisylike in form while the leaves are fine-cut and fernlike. Chamomile can be grown easily from seed and will also spread from rooted runners. In fact, in some areas it is considered a weed but homesteaders know better because we have a good use for the plant.
Harvest chamomile flowers by cutting the stems and drying them. Dry the flowers in a well-ventilated area out of the sun or hang the stems upside down to dry. The flowers are used to make a soothing tea that is designed to help calm nervousness and soothe stomach unease.
Comfrey (Symphytum officinalis)
Comfrey is an herbaceous perennial with coarse leaves that is hardy in zones 4 through 9. It grows 4 to 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide. The large root system of comfrey is extensive and makes the plant not only tolerant of drought situations, but also hard to eliminate from a garden area after it is well-established.
Comfrey is usually propagated not through seeds, but through root cuttings and divisions. They are easy to propagate and live a long time in many conditions. Many gardeners will grow comfrey in raised beds or containers, and it’s often best suited to the back or middle of the perennial border.
Historically, comfrey was used both externally and internally; however, new research indicates liver toxicity when ingested. It has anti-inflammatory properties that are used in poultices for sprains, strains, and bruises of all kinds. Comfrey infused oils are also used in beauty treatments like eye creams and burn creams.
Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea)
Echinacea is a beautiful daisylike flower that is similar to black-eyed Susan and can be substituted for them in the landscape. Echinacea is hardy in zones 3 through 8. After it is established, you’ll have flowers in two to three years.
Growing echinacea is relatively easy, as it is drought tolerant, low maintenance, and adaptable. Echinacea grows best in full sun but will grow even in part shade. The only kind of soil that may cause problems for echinacea plants would be heavy clay or overly fertile soil that holds too much moisture.
If you are growing echinacea from seeds, it will usually germinate better with a chilling period of two weeks. You can direct sow seeds shallowly in moist soil and allow them to grow right where you want them. Echinacea will naturalize readily and can be divided every three years. Use the roots from the divisions for medicinal purposes and always replant enough of the plants to keep your stand healthy and growing.
OVER THE GARDEN FENCE
The best time to harvest the roots is when the plant is dormant in the fall. Dig deeply to harvest as much of the deep roots as possible, because echinacea plants grow very deep roots. Most gardeners try to leave some of the smaller roots from the outside edges of the plant to allow the plants to reestablish themselves.
Echinacea extract has been shown to have immune-boosting properties in several studies, but appears to be more effective in higher doses. While echinacea grows wild through much of the United States, commercial harvesting is a threat to wild populations. Growing your own is a way to preserve the herb, and is another way to increase your self-sufficiency.
Echinacea purpurea is the most readily cultivated and is one of the three species used in herbal preparations. It is most often used in a tincture or decoction form and it is the root or leafy tops of the echinacea that is used for medicinal purposes.
One of my all-time favorite herbs, lavender was the only one of my newly planted perennial herbs to survive the drought in summer 2011. Lavender’s tolerance for drought and poor soil is legendary for a reason, and this makes it an excellent choice for container plantings.
The main thing to remember with lavender is that it cannot tolerate wet, soggy roots, so make sure to provide good drainage. Lavender grows best in zones 5 through 8 and has a classic fragrance with purple flowers and silvery green, needlelike leaves. See Chapter 25 for an herbal craft using lavender flowers.
One of my favorite herbs, lavender is most often purchased as a started plant.
(Photo courtesy of Brannan Sirratt)
In edible landscaping you can use lavender as an attractive herb hedge or container urn. The herb combines nicely with other plants and flowers making it a rock star in the mixed border. Prune back woody growth every year or every other year to keep the plant bushy and flowering as prolifically as possible.
You can harvest the lavender blooms when they are supple, brightly colored, and fresh. It’s best to harvest during a cool, dry time of the day because heat will cause the plant to release more of the essential oils. You can dry the herbs by hanging them in a dry place, or spreading the lavender flowers on a screen and placing it out of direct sunlight.
While lavender is used in both calming teas, and in gourmet dishes, it isn’t a common kitchen spice. The main use of lavender is in potpourri and herbal crafts, as well as medicinal uses. Lavender is very cooling and the essential oil has been used to treat heat stroke, migraines, and muscle spasms of all kinds. Lavender also has a calming effect and is good for helping to relieve sleeplessness.
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)
Lemon balm is an herbaceous perennial that has a deliciously fragrant citrus scent. The herb is considered invasive in some areas but will naturalize to form an attractive ground cover and is hardy to zone 4. The plant will grow up to 2 feet tall but can be pruned and pinched back to encourage bushy growth.
Lemon balm is an easy-to-grow herb that is soothing and adds a citrus taste to foods and teas.
(Photo courtesy of Brannan Sirratt)
Gardeners can sow seeds directly, or put in transplants that will naturalize throughout the garden space. If you are concerned about the potential to spread, plant lemon balm in pots or containers. It’s also one of the few plants that seems to tolerate dry shade and will establish itself in an orchard or perennial garden as a hardy ground cover. The attractive flowers and sweet fragrance are a boon in the herb garden.
Harvesting lemon balm is an easy affair because it’s hard to overprune or overharvest this forgiving plant. Cut back the plant two or three times during the growing season if you want to harvest large amounts all at once. Alternatively, you can harvest as needed and cut only about one quarter of the stems at a time.
As a culinary herb, lemon balm is most often used to flavor teas and alcoholic beverages. It is also used to enhance the lemony flavor of dishes such as fruit, salad, or meat. The herb is preserved by drying the herb.
For wellness uses, the herb is mostly consumed in teas that are designed to be soothing. According to Herb Companion Magazine, lemon balm has been shown to have antiviral, antibacterial, and antispasmodic properties. The calming effect is soothing to anxiety emotionally, and to stomach cramps and tension physically.
Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica)
Nettles are often considered weeds when found growing wild in a garden, but homesteaders know better. Stinging nettles are hardy in zones 5 through 9 and will tolerate both sun and shade with enough moisture. Nettles will naturalize through seeding and cuttings and in some areas are considered slightly invasive.
To seed in the garden, or container, scatter the seeds into the soil and press them gently to make contact with the soil. The seeds are light sensitive, so don’t bury them under deep layers of soil. Nettles can be dried to preserve after harvest.
Nettles are highly nutritious and historically used as a spring tonic. It is also used as a potherb much like spinach but needs to be boiled or blanched to take out the sting. The plant has high levels of vitamins A and C and is also high in calcium and potassium.
DEFINITION
A potherb is a leafy herb or plant used in cooking as greens or seasoning.
Stinging nettles have an antihistamine action, making them useful in relieving symptoms of allergies, arthritis, and other conditions. They are most frequently used to promote the health of the reproductive system and prostrate health. Secondary uses include strengthening the respiratory, digestive, and circulatory systems. Their diuretic action means that they should not be used by people with certain medical conditions.
THORNY MATTERS
Nettles are called stinging nettles because of the hollow hairs that cover the plant. When the plant comes in contact with bare skin, the hairs create skin irritation. Use gloves when handling the nettles until after they are blanched or you may find yourself paying the price!
The following herbs are most often used as spices or seasonings to add zest and flavor to dishes. Many also have health benefits.
Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil is a tender perennial plant that is most often grown as a tender annual. It will die at the first sign of frost and in cold climates is usually grown as an indoor or greenhouse plant. The key ingredient in pesto, basil is also used in a variety of other dishes in the kitchen. It makes a beautiful container plant option as well, with the variety of colors available.
Basil and other herbs planted in the top of the strawberry jar.
Seeds can be sown under a row cover or cold frame in late spring, or start seeds indoors anytime. You should see your seedlings appear in 5 to 10 days if you are starting the seeds in warm soil. Take special care in hardening off the seedlings you decide to move outdoors, as basil can be sensitive to cold spells.
Basil prefers a sunny spot that is sheltered and plenty of water. In order to preserve the purest flavor of unique cultivars, you should pinch off the flower spikes as they appear. This will encourage bushy growth and keep the basil directing its energy toward the leaves.
Of course if you’re like me, the summer gets away from you and you suddenly realize your basil has practically gone to seed. You can cut it back, use the prunings in a salad or soup, and call it good with no harm done.
Basil grows 18 to 24 inches tall and the glossy leaves are oval shaped with a variety of colors depending on the cultivar. Basil will need plenty of moisture during periods of high heat. If you grow the herb in a container, don’t let the soil dry out. Start a new set of seeds every few weeks through the summer so you can harvest successively and enjoy a bounty of basil throughout the year.
Use basil in your favorite pesto recipes—pasta salads or other Italian dishes, and stir-fries or other Asian-inspired dishes. Freeze or dry your extra basil so you’ll have some when it doesn’t grow well.
Caesar Basil. Strong flavor in the highly aromatic, large leaves.
Dark Opal Purple. A 1962 All-American Selection winner used to flavor vinegars and brighten pestos and salads.
Dwarf Greek Basil. This basil is a dwarf type that forms a round, bushy plant less than 1 foot tall and wide. The fragrant and flavorful leaves are also smaller than normal leaves.
Holy Basil. Purple and green coloration comes together in a highly attractive plant. The holy basil has a full and mint-tinged flavor.
Lemon Basil. A delicious, citrus-tinged flavor is produced by this basil variety and makes it popular in many dishes.
Licorice Basil. This large basil matures more than 2 feet tall. The purple, elongated leaves have a licorice flavor making it great for a variety of meat and salad dishes.
Siam Queen. A 1997 All-American Selection winner with a strong licorice flavor and large, aromatic leaves.
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum)
Cilantro is the life of the party when it comes to kitchen herbs. The zest behind many Asian and Mexican recipes, cilantro is the herb form of Coriandrum sativum. The seeds are used as the spice coriander.
Cilantro has zesty leaves that are a must for Mexican dishes.
Cilantro seeds can be scattered in the planting area in the fall, or you can start them indoors by planting them 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch deep. Give seedlings about 12 inches to spread. If you are transplanting cilantro, do so earlier rather than later, as they don’t like to be disturbed after they are better established.
Cilantro reaches about 2 feet in height and will bolt to flowering when the temperatures reach 75°F for several days. Clipping the leaves regularly can help slow bolting, but after it begins setting to seed there isn’t much you can do to stop it. In hot climates, offering the cilantro some afternoon shade can help prolong the ability to harvest the fresh leaves.
When the plants go to flower, you can let them—they are highly attractive and the seeds are valuable in their own right. As the flowers set seed you can cut the stems, hang them upside down with the flower heads wrapped in paper bags, and shake the seeds loose as the plant dries. The pungent seeds add a zing to salads, meat, and other dishes, but you’ll want to store them in an airtight jar so bugs won’t get in.
If some of the seeds fall to the ground, you can leave them undisturbed for volunteer seedlings. Cilantro will self-sow in many climates and provide plenty of seasoning in future years. Planting your cilantro crop from started seedlings purchased at the nursery won’t save you very much money, if any. But planting successive sowings of seeds and allowing the summer flowers to set seeds each year in the herb garden saves you a small fortune.
OVER THE GARDEN FENCE
Fresh leaves never last long in the garden, so you have to preserve the harvest when you can. Try freezing cilantro in zipper-lock storage bags. Like basil, cilantro freezes better than most herbs.
Dill (Anethum graveolens)
A member of the parsley family, dill is usually grown as an annual plant. It’s most often used as the main flavoring for pickles, and while it’s pricy to purchase from the store, it’s easy and inexpensive to grow. The fine-cut foliage and bright yellow flowers are attractive in the garden.
Dill grows tall and can be planted toward the back of an herb border. The plants attract many beneficial pollinators and insect predators to the garden. I like to include a dill plant at the end of rows in my vegetable garden, sometimes to encourage better pollination.
Sow seeds directly in the fall for spring germination, or in the spring at the last frost date. Don’t cover seeds but just lightly tap them into the soil. Thin seedlings so they are growing 10 to 12 inches apart.
Harvest dill by sheering the stems and flower umbels and be sure to cut them before the flowers go to seed. After the flowers set seed, let the seed drop to the ground to provide more dill the following year. You can also harvest seeds as a digestive aid.
Dill is used not only in pickling, but also in soups, potato dishes, stews, and other dishes. Many fish recipes call for dill. Dill can be used fresh, dried, or frozen so it’s easy to preserve extra harvest for use during the winter months.
Mint (Mentha)
One of the most recognized of all fragrances is the humble mint plant. A hardy perennial herb, mint will survive winters through zone 5 but will need to be brought indoors in colder zones. Mints grow quickly and form a low-growing mat of aromatic foliage not usually more than 2 feet tall at the most.
Mint produces flowers on little spikes in the summer, and depending on the cultivar the blooms could be pink, white, purple, or mauve. If you live in an area where mint grows naturally, you might want to plant your mint in containers to prevent it from spreading throughout the garden. Provide your mint fertile soil in well-drained but well-watered conditions.
If planting mint from seed, you’ll want to broadcast seed directly in the garden area at the time of the last frost. Press them into the soil so they are no more than 1⁄4 inch deep and water gently. Start seeds indoors four to six weeks before the last frost. Seeds take a little over a week to germinate, so don’t give up on them if they don’t appear right away.
Not every mint can grow true from seed, so take cuttings of those cultivars and root them. Mints are easily divided so you can take clones of the species you want. To reinvigorate older plants, you can dig them up, divide, and replant the healthiest sections.
Mint is used in so many herbal preparations—both medicinal and culinary. A given in mint teas and juleps, mint is also used in sweets, jellies, and other herbal preparations.
Apple Mint. A fruity fragrance and flavor is the undertone in this mint plant and makes it a nice choice for jams, juleps, and other sweet minty treats.
Chocolate Mint. Not a strong chocolate flavor, but the chocolaty hint is more than enough for most people to fall in love. Use this mint in any recipe where a hint of chocolate would be welcome.
Lavender Mint. This variety has red stems and contrasting green leaves. The lavender overtones are best enjoyed when this mint is dried.
Lemon Bergamot. This mint variety has a milder, lemon-infused fragrance and flavor. It’s a lovely addition to tea.
Spearmint. Spearmint has a milder flavor than peppermint and is the most common mint used in sauces and fresh preparations.
Variegated Peppermint. Grown like regular peppermint, the variegated form has large white splotches on the leaves.
Oregano is a commonly used herb in Italian dishes and sauces of many kinds. It is a strong herb, one of the more robust fragrances, and has attractive foliage.
Because it’s a native of the Mediterranean region, it’s no surprise that oregano tolerates poorer soil and doesn’t like to keep its feet wet. Oregano is hardy to zone 5 and prefers full sun. South of zone 7 some afternoon shade will be appreciated.
Start oregano from seeds either indoors or outside. If sowing seeds directly outdoors, wait until the soil temperate is at least 55°F. Plant seedlings indoors six weeks before the last frost date and allow up to two weeks for seed germination. Transplant when seedlings are around 6 inches tall and pinch off the tallest-growing tips to encourage bushier growth. Space plants at least 12 inches apart.
Harvest oregano at any time, but expect the best flavor right before the flowers appear. Cut off the outer stems first as they will mature ahead of the growing center. Don’t harvest more than half the plant at one time or your oregano will not have enough energy to survive the winter.
Use oregano fresh throughout the growing season. Store extra by freezing or drying the leaves. Sprinkle oregano leaves on salad to add extra flavor, or chop it up and sprinkle over meat on the grill.
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
Parsley is a biennial plant with attractive leaves high in vitamin C. It’s a pretty plant in the garden and a nutritious herb in the kitchen. Enhance the flavor of sauces, herb butters, rice, and stir-fries with the flavorful leaves. The roots of the Hamburg parsley are also edible and similar to parsnips.
Parsley comes in flat leaf, curly leaf, and root-producing varieties. Flat leaf, also called Italian parsley, is generally more nutritious, while curly leaf parsley is used mostly as a garnish to enhance the appearance of food.
Parsley is slow to start from seeds. You can soak the seeds in water overnight to help speed up germination. Try to keep the soil at about 70°F and that should help as well. Start seeds six weeks before the last frost date so your parsley will have a good start when the weather is warm enough to transplant them outdoors.
Parsley should be harvested before flowering begins unless you want the plant to set seed. You can let the parsley overwinter under a layer of mulch and in the spring the plant will flower and set seed so you’ll be able to gather the seed by late spring and set out new plants for the year.
Keep the parsley in moist soil and provide part shade when the summers are too hot. Parsley appreciates a thick layer of mulch or compost—as most of the vegetables and herbs do.
Parsley is a must-have in my herb garden. Note the beginnings of a flower cluster forming in the plant.
Parsley doesn’t have too many disease problems but has some pest problems. Parsley is related to carrots so it makes sense that it is sometimes preyed on by carrot flies. Aphids or mites can also be a problem on occasion.
Harvest leaves for storing at their most flavorful peak of summer. Freezing parsley is generally a better option to preserve flavor than drying. Chop the parsley and add to water, freezing the mix in ice cube trays. If you want to dry parsley it should be done as quickly as possible without overheating.
OVER THE GARDEN FENCE
Parsley, like carrots, helps attract predatory wasps and other beneficial insects to the garden. Because of this effect, it is an herb commonly used as a companion plant in the vegetable garden. I know a master gardener in our area who always puts a parsley plant at the end of each tomato row.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
One of my absolute favorite plants, rosemary has a lot to offer a backyard farmer and a gardener. The evergreen perennial can be included in a fragrance garden, mixed perennial border, or large ornamental container. Hardy in zones 4 through 10, the bush is only evergreen through about zone 8.
Most rosemary plants have an upright growth pattern and can reach 4 or 5 feet in good growing conditions. Some cultivars, however, have dwarf forms and don’t grow more than a couple feet. One of my favorite cultivars has a weeping form that is perfect for edging a raised bed or large container.
I love the pine needle–like foliage of the rosemary plants and usually have more than one variety.
(Photo courtesy of Brannan Sirratt)
Rosemary can be grown from seed but takes a couple weeks to germinate. Provide plenty of sunshine and moderate water until the plant is well established. After rosemary is well established it will prove to be more drought tolerant than many other garden plants.
Not many pests will attack rosemary, but whiteflies, spider mites, and powdery mildew can be occasional problems. When growing tips are damaged by the cold, or get too woody and overgrown, simply prune out the dead or twiggy branches. Use them in a grill to flavor baked potatoes, roasted kabobs, or grilled meat.
To harvest rosemary, simply snip fresh stems from the plant with hand pruners. As with most herbs, harvesting leaves prior to flowering is the time of peak flavor. Preserve the harvest by drying, freezing fresh twigs, or flavoring oils and vinegars. Rosemary is often used in potato dishes, meats of all kinds, and even herb butter.
Arp Rosemary. Grows to more than 5 feet tall. This rosemary has pale blue flowers and is very cold-hardy to zone 6.
Golden Rosemary. Also called Golden Rain. This rosemary has bright yellow-green leaves instead of the dark green of most rosemary plants. The flowers are pale blue.
Pink Rosemary. This rosemary variety has a slightly weeping variety and produces pale pink flowers. Prune yearly to help the shrub hold its shape.
Santa Rosa Trailing Rosemary. One of my personal favorite varieties, the trailing or creeping rosemary has a weeping habit. Plant it in a raised bed or container where the trailing habit can be enjoyed!
Spice Island Rosemary. This 4-foot-tall variety grows with a strong upright growth habit. Dark blue flowers appear in late winter through early spring.
White Rosemary. Beautiful bushy habit, this rosemary grows 4 feet tall and wide and produces pure white flowers.
Sage (Salvia officinalis)
Sage is a perennial plant, almost shrublike, with highly fragrant foliage and brightly colored flowers. The leaves are usually textured and often have a silvery or grey tint to them even in the colored varieties. Sage is one of those plants that many add to their ornamental gardens without realizing what a boon it is for the kitchen as well. The perennial shrubs are hardy in zones 4 through 10.
Sage can be planted in the autumn with other shrubs, or in the spring. To start seeds, sow indoors six weeks before the last frost and transplant after the weather has warmed up a bit but allow plenty of time for the seeds to germinate. Provide sage with well-drained soil because the shrub is drought tolerant and doesn’t require excess water.
Give sage room to spread its wings—the greedy shrub will easily take 2 feet in the garden space. Provide sage with full sun and well-drained soil and it will provide plenty of fresh leaves for harvesting. Sage is best used fresh and you can add a few leaves over the hot coals of the grill to smoke meat.
There are few pests that attack sage, but spider mites can be a problem sometimes. Slugs can also attack sage, so watch for signs of those slimy trails. Poor air circulation can make powdery mildew more likely, so give your salvias enough room.
Because sage is a perennial, you do not have to harvest all the leaves in one fell swoop. Harvest about a quarter of the leaves each year and allow the plant to grow back each year. If you want to be fussy with your sage you can pinch back the flowering stalks, but I enjoy the hummingbirds that are attracted to the flowers.
Sage and rosemary planted together in a large ceramic container. Geranium is also planted but it won’t survive the winter. Next year when the perennial plants are larger, they will have more room in the container.
Sage is great in many chicken dishes, stuffing, or vinegars. Sage should be dried thoroughly before storing but be aware that dried sage has a stronger flavor than fresh leaves. If the plant becomes too woody and the center begins dying off, you can prune it more heavily to encourage new growth. Or you can root cuttings or layer the plant to create new sage plants.
DEFINITION
To layer a plant is to pull down a growing stem and bury part of the stem under the ground. The middle of the stem is under the soil with one end still attached to the main plant, and the other growing tip above the ground. After a few weeks the stem will develop a root system of its own and can be cut off the main plant. Replant the cutting and enjoy a brand-new plant identical to the original.
Thyme (Thymus spp.)
Thyme is another of my personal favorites. The scent is delightful, and the plant is so easy to grow in bed, border, or container. I use thyme as a ground cover for container shrubs and have a nice amount produced each year as a result. Because the plant is semi-evergreen, the thyme is a great foil for other flowering plants and herbs.
Start thyme by plugging in plant starts or divisions in the spring or fall. You can also seed the plants directly outdoors in early spring or start seeds indoors and then transplant them after the last chance of frost. Thyme is hardy in zones 4 through 8 and is grown as an annual plant elsewhere.
Thyme is a creeping plant and will spread via runners. This tendency to form a pleasing mat makes thyme a popular choice for a lawn replacement. When allowed to bloom, thyme has attractive tiny flowers in white or pink.
Thyme needs little maintenance in the garden beyond periodic watering. After the plant matures the woody center will begin to die out. Every three or four years simply dig up your thyme, cut away the woody center, and replant the healthy green sections from the outside. Extra divisions can be replanted elsewhere or given to friends.
Harvesting thyme is as simple as cutting off a leafy stem to use fresh. In mild areas where thyme stays green year-round, you can harvest throughout the year. In other areas, save some extra harvest by hanging bunches to dry in a shaded area out of the sun.
Thyme is highly fragrant and each cultivar has a unique taste and fragrance of its own. Lemon thyme can be used in recipes that call for lemony zest, or even in teas and jelly. Standard thyme varieties are a favorite in meat dishes and seem to go especially well in Italian recipes.
Elfin Thyme. Elfin thyme only grows a couple inches tall and produces the typical pink thyme flowers, but they appear several weeks later in the middle of summer.
French Thyme. French thyme has a sweeter flavor than the common English thyme and the leaves have a silvery tint to them.
Orange Balsam. Strongly scented and flavored, this taller thyme is a workhorse in the kitchen.
Silver Thyme. A variegated thyme, the silver variety has gorgeous white edges that add sparkling color as a ground cover. Used as common thyme in both kitchen and garden, this thyme adds a new sparkle of color.
