Puff pastry, pâte feuilletée, is considered to be one of the hardest of all pastries to make. Someday I will try. Until then, I use all-butter ready-made frozen puff pastry from the market. It means I can create fast, fun desserts in minutes. Most families in France do exactly the same thing.
Niflettes
Les Niflettes de Provins Quicker | Makes 12 to 16 (3-inch) pastries
These small pastries are a specialty of Provins, where folklore says they were created either by a baker or by women of the village to console orphans crying over the loss of their parents or grandparents. Niflette allegedly comes from the Latin “ne flette,” which means “do not cry.” They have become the traditional pastry offered in Provins on All Saints Day, when families visit the cemetery to commemorate their dead relatives.
Although initially a sad thought, I think the act of making them to soothe and bring happiness is reason enough to replicate them at home, don’t you? How could sweet puff pastry and vanilla pastry cream not be comforting?
Special Equipment rolling pin; 3-inch diameter cookie cutter or glass; 2 baking sheets lined with parchment paper
2 packages store-bought frozen puff pastry (4 sheets)
2 large egg yolks
1/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water
Turbinado or granulated sugar
Thaw pastry according to package instructions. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and salt until thick and pale. Sprinkle the flour over the top and whisk well to blend.
In a saucepan, heat the milk until bubbles begin to appear around the edges. Gradually pour a thin stream of milk into the egg mixture while whisking until it is well combined with the eggs. Pour everything back into the saucepan and cook over medium heat while stirring with a wooden spoon until it becomes a thick pudding consistency. Whisk in the vanilla and leave to cool to room temperature.
Meanwhile, roll out the pastry sheets to 10 x 11-inch rectangles. Use cookie cutter to cut out rounds from the pastry sheets.
Place 1 round on the baking sheet, brush with the egg wash, place another round on top, and use your fingers to gently press in the center to make an indent where the vanilla pastry cream will be poured. Prick the center a couple of times with a fork. Brush the top round with the egg wash, including the outer edges. Sprinkle the outer edges with the turbinado sugar to make a crunchy rim. Repeat this process with the remaining pastry rounds.
Spoon the pastry cream into the hollow center of each round and bake for 20–25 minutes, until golden. Remove from the oven, use a spatula to remove to a wire rack, and serve when cooled to room temperature.
Mini Raspberry Croissants
Mini-Croissants à la Framboise quicker | Makes 24 mini croissants
These take only 15 minutes to bake and all of 10 minutes to prepare. Make them ahead, put them in the refrigerator, and bake while family or guests are having dinner. They are a great addition to a plate of all kinds of cookies after dinner.
Special Equipment 1 baking sheet lined with parchment paper
1 package store-bought frozen puff pastry (2 sheets), thawed
1/2 cup raspberry jam
1 egg beaten with 1/2 teaspoon vanilla and 1/2 teaspoon water
Confectioner’s sugar
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
On a clean, lightly floured surface, unfold 1 sheet of the pastry. With a pizza wheel, kitchen scissors, or sharp knife, cut vertically into 3 equal pieces and slice each in half horizontally. Then slice each square on a diagonal to make into triangles. Repeat with the second pastry sheet. You should have 24 triangles.
Thinly spread each triangle with 1 teaspoon raspberry jam.
Roll up each triangle snugly from the wide base to the tip at the top. Place on the baking sheet. Brush them with the egg wash then use your fingers to shape them slightly into crescents, keeping the tip tucked underneath.
Bake for 15–20 minutes, until golden. Allow to cool to room temperature then dust with confectioner’s sugar.
Pastry Shop Traditional Almond Pithivier
Pithiviers Traditionnel aux Amandes Quicker | Serves 8
I was thrilled when I learned how easy this is to make at home. Normally I would buy one in the pastry shop in France, but baking it at home allows you to add a variety of ingredients to the filling depending on the season. Sometimes I add sautéed apples or pears on top of the filling, sometimes chocolate chunks. And sometimes I make it the night before then bake it in the morning for breakfast. It’s as easy as making a pie, maybe easier.
Special Equipment food processor; rolling pin; 1 (10-inch) round cake pan; 2 baking sheets lined with parchment paper
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
7 ounces almond paste, crumbled
1/4 cup almond flour
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 package store-bought frozen puff pastry (2 sheets)
1 egg yolk, beaten
4 to 6 ounces fresh raspberries
1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon water
1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Prepare the filling by slicing the butter into the food processor and adding the sugar, almond paste, almond flour, egg yolk, and almond extract. Pulse 12 times then process until very smooth. Reserve.
Roll out 1 pastry sheet just a little, and using the cake pan as a template, cut around the pan with a paring knife to create a 10-inch disk of pastry. Place the disk on a baking sheet and refrigerate while you roll out the second piece.
Roll out the remaining pastry sheet and cut it 1 inch wider than the cake pan so that it will easily fit over the filling. Place this disk onto the other baking sheet and refrigerate.
Take the 10-inch circle out of the refrigerator, leaving it on the baking sheet, and place all of the filling into the center, leaving 1 inch free around the edges. Pat down the filling into a neat circle and brush the perimeter of the dough with the beaten egg yolk. Gently insert the raspberries into the filling.
Take the other disk out of the refrigerator and lay it over the top, gently pressing down all around the filling with your fingers to eliminate trapped air. Press down all the way around to seal the edges of the pastry then trim with a knife.
Use a sharp paring knife to cut a scallop pattern all the way around the edges. Working from the center outwards, gently score decorative slits in the top of the pastry to look like the spokes of a wheel, without cutting all the way through the dough. Make a small hole in the center to let steam escape. Brush the entire pithivier with the egg wash.
Refrigerate the pithivier for 1 hour. Half an hour before baking, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Bake for 20–25 minutes, until it is lightly golden. Mix the corn syrup, water, and vanilla together, lightly brush it all over the pithivier, and then return it to the oven to bake for 10–15 minutes, until it is a beautiful golden brown. Cool to room temperature, slice with a serrated knife, and serve.
Tip
If you wish, you can freeze it until you are ready to bake it. It keeps in the freezer for up to 2 weeks. Just take out of the freezer and place directly in the hot oven to bake.
Apricot Jam Sacristans
Sacristains à la Confiture d’Abricots Quicker | Makes about 25 sacristans
I spied my first sacristans displayed on a table at the open-air market in Saint-Tropez. They were gorgeous corkscrew pastries filled with a chocolaty mixture and sprinkled with finely chopped hazelnuts and powdered sugar. I like mine filled with apricot jam so it oozes out a little during baking, caramelizing and becoming crisp. Dusting with powdered sugar is optional.
Special Equipment rolling pin; 2 baking sheets lined with parchment paper
1 package store-bought frozen puff pastry (2 sheets), thawed
4 heaping tablespoons apricot jam
1 large egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water
Turbinado or crystallized sugar
1 cup confectioner’s sugar, optional
Lightly sprinkle a clean work surface with flour. Roll out 1 pastry sheet to a 14-inch-long rectangle. Spread 2 tablespoons jam over the bottom half of the pastry sheet, fold over the top to cover it, and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Repeat with the second sheet of pastry.
Brush with the egg wash on both sides then sprinkle lightly with the turbinado sugar. With a pizza cutter, scissors, or large knife, slice each pastry into 1/4-inch-wide strips.
Twist strips by holding each end and turning in opposite directions then place them about 1 inch apart on the baking sheets, pressing down at each end to secure them to the parchment paper. Refrigerate for at least 20 minutes before baking.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Bake the sacristans for 10–12 minutes, until they are golden brown.
Take out of the oven and, when they are cool enough to handle, sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar and serve.
Tip
Make the sacristans the night before, store in the refrigerator, and in the morning pop them in the oven for 10–12 minutes for fresh baked goodness to go with your coffee.
Giant Strawberry-and-Whipped Cream Millefeuille
Millefeuille Géant aux Fraises et à la Crème Fouettée Quicker | Serves 6 to 8
Delicate, individual many-layered pastries, called millefeuille, appear in almost every pastry shop in France. Millefeuille, which means a thousand sheets, are time consuming and a bit difficult to make.
To make them at home, I pared the thousand sheets down to two sheets, giant ones, then sandwiched them with whipped cream and strawberries. It’s a fun, big, spectacular-looking dessert to bring to the table. The light pastry, whipped cream, and fresh, ripe strawberries are delicious together. Make sure everyone is ready as it should be served immediately to preserve the volume of the whipped cream.
Special Equipment rolling pin; 2 baking sheets lined with parchment paper; electric hand mixer
1 package store-bought frozen puff pastry (2 sheets)
Confectioner’s sugar
1 cup heavy whipping cream, chilled
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar
1 pound strawberries, thickly sliced, plus more for garnish
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
Thaw the pastry according to package instructions. On a large piece of parchment paper that has been lightly floured, roll out both sheets of pastry to 14-inch-long rectangles.
Place 1 puff pastry on each baking sheet and generously dust one of the sheets with confectioner’s sugar. For both pastries, prick all over with a fork as much as possible so they don’t puff up too much when baked. Place in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until they are golden.
Meanwhile, using the mixer, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Add the vanilla and 3 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar and beat until stiff. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Remove the pastries from the oven, and while they are still warm, use a large serrated knife to slice each in half horizontally to make thinner and lighter layers. Discard the bottom halves. Put the pastry without confectioner’s sugar on a serving dish with the hollowed-out side facing up.
Spoon the whipped cream onto this pastry, topping with all of the strawberries. Gently place the second pastry on top, with the sugared side facing up. Sift additional confectioner’s sugar over the top and decorate with additional strawberries.
Tip
When serving, use a serrated knife to slice each piece in long gentle motions without pressing down too much.
Alsatian Apple Marzipan Strudel
Strudel Alsacien aux Pommes et au Massepain Longer | Serves 6 to 8
Having been passed back and forth between Germany and France for so long, Alsace developed a unique mix of German and French culture and cuisine. The apple strudels made in Germany are also made in Alsace. Classically, they take a bit of effort to make the perfect thin dough to wrap the apple filling in. For a shortcut, I use frozen ready-made puff pastry. It tastes delicious and looks even better with a dusting of confectioner’s sugar.
Special Equipment rolling pin; 1 baking sheet lined with parchment paper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
2 large Granny Smith apples
1 store-bought frozen puff-pastry sheet, thawed
7 ounces almond paste
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon water
1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet, add the brown sugar, and stir to melt. Keep warm.
Peel and quarter the apples then slice very thinly and toss them into the skillet. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, until just tender. Turn off the heat.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
Cut a large piece of parchment paper and flour it. Place the pastry sheet on it and roll it out to a 12 x 16-inch rectangle. Crumble the almond paste over the top, leaving 1 inch free all the way around the edge.
Sift the flour into the skillet of apples and add the sugar and cinnamon. Stir well to coat the apples.
Scoop the apples onto the short end of the pastry sheet in a long line, from end-to-end horizontally, leaving 1 inch free at the ends. Fill all the way to the middle of the pastry sheet then, using the paper underneath the pastry as an aid to help you roll it up, begin rolling the pastry into a long log. Pinch the ends then push them underneath the log to seal. Transfer to the baking sheet, seam side down.
Brush all over with the egg wash, make slits to vent, and put into the oven to bake for 25 minutes. Meanwhile, mix the corn syrup, water, and almond extract.
After the strudel has baked for 25 minutes, remove from the oven, brush all over with the syrup mixture, and return to the oven to bake for 10–15 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool for 15 minutes before slicing.
Sweet Vol-au-Vent with a Strawberry and Tarragon Coulis
Vol-au-Vent Sucré, Coulis de Fraises à l’Estragon Longer | Serves 6
Another convenience in working with ready-made puff pastry is that you can buy ready-made puff-pastry shells, called vol-au-vent, and put almost anything into them and serve for dessert. For this recipe, I fill them with a luscious pillow of vanilla pastry cream topped with one perfect strawberry and drizzle a sweet, fresh tarragon coulis all the way around.
Special Equipment electric stand mixer; food processor; 1 baking sheet lined with parchment paper
Pastry Cream
3 cups milk
3 cups half-and-half
8 large egg yolks, room temperature
1-1/4 cups granulated sugar
3 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cornstarch
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
Tarragon Coulis
1-1/2 cups granulated sugar
1-1/2 cups water
4 tablespoons tightly packed fresh tarragon leaves, coarsely chopped, divided
To Finish
1 package frozen puff pastry shells (vol-au-vent)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
6 large strawberries
Pastry Cream
Pour the milk and half-and-half into a saucepan and heat until small bubbles form around the edges. Turn down the heat to very low.
Using the mixer, beat together the egg yolks and sugar for 4 minutes, until they are very thick. Beat in the vanilla. Sift in the flour then cornstarch and beat to combine.
Bring the milk mixture back to almost scalding. Carefully pour a third of the hot milk into the egg mixture with the machine running.
Pour all of the egg mixture into the hot milk in the saucepan and cook over low heat while you constantly whisk. It will look frothy and thick. Do this for at least 5 minutes, as you want the pastry cream to become thick enough to hold its shape.
When you like the consistency, slice in the butter, whisking until it is all melted. Cool the pastry cream to room temperature. If you are using it later, cover with plastic wrap touching the top and place it in the refrigerator.
Tarragon Coulis
Heat the sugar and water in a saucepan until it comes to a boil, the sugar has melted, and the mixture is clear. Add 2 tablespoons tarragon, turn heat down, and simmer for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and let steep for 15 minutes.
Add remaining tarragon leaves, pour everything into the food processor, and process until the tarragon is very finely chopped. Reserve or chill until ready to use.
To Finish
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.
Place shells on baking sheet with the tops facing up. Brush them with the melted butter, sprinkle liberally with sugar, and bake for 18–20 minutes, until they are puffed and golden brown. Cool for 5 minutes before gently removing the tops with the tip of a knife.
To serve, place each vol-au-vent on a serving plate. Fill with the pastry cream, top with a strawberry, drizzle the coulis around each pastry shell, and serve.
