Our hair is the ultimate beauty accessory and one of our most impressive physical traits. And the most extraordinary thing about it is that no matter what we do to it, it keeps growing back (for most of our lives, anyhow, but we’ll get to hair loss later).
The hair root originates deep in the dermis and grows up through the scalp, where it is called a shaft. The health of our hair depends on a healthy scalp. Too much oil (sebum) and sweat on the scalp can clog the follicle and inhibit healthy hair growth. Too little oil can cause the scalp to be dry and flaky. Each hair cuticle is made up of keratin and moisture. Keratin is the same protein that forms the base of nails, teeth, and skin. Vitamin deficiencies, illness, chemical processes, product abuse, and over-styling are some of the factors that can cause weak, lifeless hair. The cortex makes up 90 percent of the weight of the hair strand. It gives hair texture, strength, elasticity, and color, and it contains melanin, or pigment. The rest of the strand is made up of the cuticle, the outermost layer, and the medulla, the lightweight, air-filled core.
The hair root originates deep in the dermis and grows up through the scalp, where it is called a shaft.
In order to know how to maintain healthy hair, it’s important to determine your hair type. There are several factors to consider: First, is your hair straight, wavy, curly, or kinky? Remember, we’re talking about the actual hair strand itself, not the texture your hair appears to have when the strands are styled together in one complete look. Straight hair usually has no curl and no wave. It’s more likely to be oily than dry, either fine or thin, and super soft. Sometimes it can be medium textured with lots of body, or coarse and resistant to curling and shaping. Wavy hair is usually coarse, easy to handle, and can be blown out into straighter styles or worn curlier. It has a tendency to become frizzy. Contrary to popular belief, curly hair is often baby soft and fine and gets curlier or frizzier in humidity. It can be easily styled into a curly look or blown out into a smoother style. Curly hair has strong elasticity, so curls are usually shiny, soft, smooth, springy, and well defined. The longer and straighter curly hair is, the looser the curls. Shorter curly hair is often known for its tight, corkscrew curls. Kinky hair appears coarse but is really fine hair with thin strands packed together. It may feel silky but doesn’t look shiny. The condition of your scalp also plays a role in determining your hair type. Overstimulation of the oil glands due to stress, vitamin deficiency, poor diet, and sweat gives your hair greasy clumps at the root, which can attract dirt quickly. The result: oily hair that usually can be remedied by shampooing often with a gentle shampoo. Dry hair is generally caused by a combination of genetics and environmental factors such as sun, salt, and chlorine, which make your scalp deficient in fatty acids or other nutrients. Overprocessing can also cause hair to look dull, break easily, get frizzy, or be prone to split ends. Use a moisturizing shampoo like one with wheat germ oil and a conditioner to bring your dry hair back to life. Maintaining a well-balanced diet and a gentle hair care routine will give you strong, soft, shiny hair that’s full of body and easy to handle. Shampoo every other day or daily with a gentle shampoo to keep your hair looking great.
A Test for Your Hair
To help identify your hair type, pull a strand of hair form your head and perform these two tests. First, try to thread the hair through a needle as if you were threading it with string. If the hair slides right through, it’s fine and probably straight. If you have trouble threading the needle or if the hair gets caught along the way, your hair is thicker and wavy or curly. Next, drop the hair into a glass of water. If the hair floats, it’s either healthy or a bit oily since oil and water don’t mix. If it sinks to the bottom, it’s obvious that it absorbed a great deal of water to make up for the moisture it lacks, so it must be dry.
One of the most significant problems in caring for our hair is that, despite all the information we are provided with to help us determine our hair type, most women still don’t know what their hair needs. Or they neglect giving their hair the treatment it requires out of laziness. “Most people don’t condition or take care of their hair the way they should,” says Ted Giza, senior stylist at the Avon Salon and Spa in New York City. “For example, straight hair needs to be washed and conditioned as much as curly hair, and flyaway static ends are a sure sign of hair that’s void of moisture. Hair is an accessory. We wear our hair like jewelry or makeup. People should say, ‘Wow, that’s an elegant, beautiful woman’ not ‘Oh my god, her hair looks amazing.’ If you are getting compliments on your whole look, you have successfully found the proportion, style, and texture that work well for you.”
If you haven’t quite figured out your personal hair care formula, consider some of these common problems that can be easily fixed to give you healthier hair. “One of the biggest mistakes women make is using the wrong products the wrong way,” says Ted. “You’ll know you’re using the wrong shampoo and conditioner by the way your hair responds. If you use a detangler for dry hair, it will still be frizzy. If you use a heavy-duty conditioner on straight, fine hair, it will look greasy.” In today’s oversaturated market, it’s easy to be confused about which products to use. “With hundreds of shampoos and conditioners out there, most will work for someone, somewhere, sometime. But just because one product works for your friend, doesn’t mean it will work for you.”
Another common hair problem is not cutting your hair often enough. “Split ends are the culprit,” says Ted. “They tend to look frayed like fiberglass. A lot of women think they don’t have to get haircuts while they are growing out their hair, but the longer hair becomes, the more ends split and you ultimately have to cut off more than you intended to. Regular trims help clean up splitting, especially if you blow-dry or style hair regularly.”
Getting a proportionate haircut is also key. Ted says, “It’s hard for women to learn to trust their stylists, because while they know they can probably give a technically good haircut, they may not always choose one that’s right for their face. If you stop getting complimented on your hair, chances are it probably isn’t the right cut or color for you.”
Styling aids are another issue, and smoothing a dollop of gel onto your scalp isn’t always the answer. “Most of us don’t understand how styling products work,” says Ted. “We don’t know the difference between grooming and straightening balms, laminates or silicones, volumizers, mousses, or gels. We don’t know what’s meant for the hair shaft, hair ends, or roots. We apply a product to the wrong part of our hair and wonder why the ends are still frizzy, unkempt, and dull. More often than not, stylists don’t educate their clients about products and too often even if they do, the clients are not really listening.”
Proper hair care is part of your daily ritual and just as important as brushing your teeth or getting dressed in the morning. Your hair should be regularly washed, brushed, and styled in order to help it look and feel its best. Here is what you need to know to get through the basics.
The sebaceous glands at the base of each hair shaft secrete oil. This oil, known as sebum, coats hair with a greasy layer that lubricates and softens but also attracts dirt and pollutants. Shampooing cleans both your hair and scalp by lifting dirt and oil. Sounds simple, right? Not so if you’ve stopped by a local drugstore lately and scanned the shelves in search of the right formula for you. Before you buy, decide what benefits you’re looking for in a shampoo and it will be easier to narrow down the options and make your choice.
Obviously, the primary purpose of a shampoo is to cleanse our hair, but there are secondary benefits, like conditioning hair. “Two-in-one shampoos are conditioning shampoos designed to moisturize dry, damaged, or colored hair,” explains Joanne Crudele, development manager for Unilever, the manufacturers of Salon Selectives, Finesse, Thermasilk, and Suave, among other brands. “For example, Salon Selectives is a hipper, trendier brand for more experimental women, Finesse is for women who want soft, beautiful hair, Thermasilk is a heat-activated shampoo that targets special styling needs, and Suave offers basic performance at a value-conscious price.” Choosing a shampoo depends not only on the needs of your hair but also somewhat on your lifestyle. Women with dry, thick hair can tolerate shampooing every other day, since overshampooing can make their hair frizzy and bushy. Women with oily hair, or women who use lots of products in their hair, should shampoo at least once a day, sometimes even twice. It’s important, however, not to overshampoo your hair. For example, curly hair tends to be on the dry side because it takes longer for oil to make its way down a curly hair shaft. If you shampoo curly hair more than two or three times a week, you run the risk of stripping hair of its natural oil, which seals and smooths the cuticles so that they reflect light and make hair look shiny. In addition, you will dry out the ends, which never get the benefit of the sebum. Most experts agree that shampoos with high levels of plant extracts buffer moisture loss and prevent hair from drying out.
Is Your Hair in Condition?
To determine if your cuticle is damaged, shampoo and condition hair, then comb it out. If the comb sticks toward the end, the cuticle is damaged and you need a deep moisturizing conditioner. Some leave-in conditioners penetrate the cortex and build hair from the inside out.
Generally speaking, most women shampoo at least once a day using lukewarm water. The amount of shampoo you use varies according to the length and texture of your hair, but as a guideline, smooth a palmful into one hand and smooth it over your hair by starting at the scalp and stroking outward from root to tip instead of in a rough, circular motion, which can cause the hair fibers to rub together and tangle hair. Rinse in cool water to close cuticles and stimulate circulation to the scalp. Be sure to rinse well because product buildup dulls the hair. To dry hair, Crudele suggests using your hands as a squeegee to wring out the excess water, then lightly patting hair with a towel.
“Shampooing needs change as you age,” says Crudele. “Hormonal changes in your body can slow hair growth, cause hair loss, or limit the production of natural lipids on the hair, which can make hair feel coarse. As you age, you may find you need to shampoo less so your hair doesn’t feel overdry, or you may want to try a lighter-weight shampoo because you have less hair than you used to.”
MYTH: For best shampooing results, choose a shampoo and stick to it.
FACT: Rotate shampoos to ensure that you get the best performance from each. The same shampoo doesn’t work well after a while because your hair gets used to it. At the same time, you might require different benefits from your shampoo on different days. If you have less time to get ready one day, try a two-in-one shampoo. If your spirits need a lift another day, try an aromatherapy shampoo.
Using a conditioner regularly helps improve the moisture content of hair and lock in that moisture so that it doesn’t evaporate into the air. Conditioners leave a film of fatty acids and silicone on the hair to smooth the cuticle so that styling tools glide right through. As hair gets damaged, it soaks up conditioners even more. Conditioners help reduce the friction and static electricity caused by the interaction between hair strands. While most women condition their hair every other day, some fall victim to over- or underconditioning. Overconditioning can be caused by conditioning too frequently or by leave-in conditioners. “All conditioners leave some amount of product on your hair,” says Cheri McMaster, a senior scientist at Pantene, “but a lightweight conditioner will leave less behind. Leave-ins can do wonders for thick hair that needs extra moisture but can weigh down fine, straight hair and leave it looking greasy.” They are often available in liquid spray form, which can be directed onto a specific area of hair, such as the ends or a dryer patch where you need additional conditioner or shine. Leave-in conditioners are ideal for children who need help detangling messy locks, protecting hair from the elements, and restyling bedhead hair, which is popular among boys who don’t want to take the time to do their ’dos. Two-in-one shampoos and conditioners save space in your bag when you travel and fit neatly into your locker at the gym, plus they can cost less than buying shampoo and conditioner separately. But if you really need a good conditioner, the two-in-one products probably won’t do the trick. That’s because the shampoo component adds surfactants for cleaning; surfactants increase the level of static electricity in hair, which defeats the purpose of using a conditioner.
Fun Hair Facts
To condition correctly, suggests McMaster, experiment with different amounts of product to find your own magical formula. A pea-size dose applied to the ends of fine, thin hair is appropriate. Thicker, coarser hair will eagerly soak up a capful of conditioner. “Focus on the ends and work your way up from tip to root,” says McMaster. “For thick hair, work your hands right up to the scalp. Try not to let the product drip on your skin or it may cause your face to break out. Leave conditioner on your hair while you wash your body or shave so that it has time to make your hair smooth and shiny. The longer you leave conditioner on your hair, the better it works; five to ten minutes is ideal. For more protection, rinse with cool water so that some of the conditioner stays put even after you wash it.”
To determine if your cuticle is damaged, shampoo and condition hair, then comb it out. If the comb sticks toward the end, the cuticle is damaged and you need a deep moisturizing conditioner. Some leave-in conditioners penetrate the cortex and build hair from the inside out.
“You have to feel totally comfortable with where you part your hair,” says New York City salon owner Julian Ferrer. “Otherwise, it never feels quite right.” Style is also a consideration, according to Ferrer, who says there’s a big difference in a haircut if your part is on the wrong side. “When the wind blows the hair, it won’t fall in the right place; some pieces will look longer than others.”
Ferrer confides that the trick is to cut hair with the part in the middle, then after finishing the cut, the hair should be recut on the side desired by the client. This is done so that when the style moves, the hair will always fall in lines that connect with each other. “A haircut should always have connection no matter where the part falls,” says the stylist. “You want it to be even on each side, even if you part your hair differently one day.” Changing your part from time to time can help maintain healthy hair. If you normally wear your hair parted to the right, and you move your part to the left, you can give fine, limp hair a little more lift without weighing hair down with gels, sprays, or other styling products. Says Ferrer, “Make use of the natural way hair falls. After a while, it becomes a habit and you can train hair to fall naturally into a certain position.” Basically, says Ferrer, when parting hair, it’s up to each individual to wear her part in a way that assures she looks good.
If you’ve been following Marcia Brady’s advice all these years, you may be overbrushing your hair. The beauty-obsessed teen would make it a practice to brush her long, honey-colored locks 100 times a day. But the truth is, overvigorous brushing damages hair by stripping away the outer cells to expose the inner shaft, breaking brittle hair or dislodging hair that’s not yet ready to depart. Overbrushing oily hair can supercharge the sebaceous glands and actually damage hair. Experts say a mere ten to twenty gentle strokes a day should do the trick.
The good news: Brushing encourages blood circulation, stimulates sebum-producing glands, distributes oils to give hair strands a silky coat, and dislodges dry scalp flakes, dust, and product residue. Brushing upward from the nape of the neck while bending forward adds volume after you flip hair back into place, but never brush hair when it’s wet and at its weakest. Instead, “use a wide-tooth comb to comb hair out after shampoo,” says celebrity hairstylist Steven Dillon, of the Gil Ferrer salon in New York City and beauty advisor for www.reflect.com. “Start at the bottom and work your way up to the roots to minimize any chance of getting tangles or breaking your hair.”
“Hair is the best accessory we have,” says Ken Paves, of Profiles Agency in Los Angeles. “If our hair looks amazing, it doesn’t matter if we’re wearing sneakers and jeans or Manolos and a Prada suit. But if our hair doesn’t look its best, it ruins the whole look.” Paves says that when it comes to their hair, women should be able to charge things up a bit. “I love women who take risks and do things for the moment, such as adding extensions or clips or using a great product.” says Paves, who swears by the hand lotion trick (a drop of hand lotion swiped across your hair will seal the ends and replenish moisture). Even distribution of lotion on towel-dried hair is also key. The most effective way, however, to keep your style intact is to use styling products correctly. “Most women put gel, mousse, or volumizer on their hands, then wipe their hands on top of their hair. The product usually doesn’t make it to the underlayers or the ends. You need to apply a product in sections starting at the nape of your neck, and comb it through each section to distribute it from roots to ends (except root volumizer, which should be used only on roots) to get the maximum benefit. “Texture is the foundation of any look,” Paves continues. “Setting your style with heat makes the cuticle expand and the shape of the hair shaft change, so it’s important to let hair cool naturally before continuing to style. When the cuticle cools down and closes, the style locks into shape.”
If you want straight hair, suggests Paves, be sure to go continuously through the motion of evening out the texture all over. If you use a blow dryer or straightening iron, allow hair to cool so that the texture will set and last longer. If you want a straight look with a slight bend at the ends, blow hair out with a dryer and a large-size round brush, then wrap hair around your head as if it was one big roller and let it cool to lock in the texture. If you’re going for wavy hair, start with a good blow-out and wrap hair around a curling iron to make it wavy. Let hair cool, and then run your fingers through it to allow the style to set. “I love hair that moves, that’s sexy, touchable, and looks lived in—believable hair,” says the stylist. “That’s what’s modern to me. It’s all about what makes a woman feel the best about herself, what makes her feel beautiful and sexy at this very moment in her life.”
According to Paves, making a haircut look modern is as easy as bringing out a woman’s eyes or hiding her high forehead—whatever makes her feel sexy and confident. When going from the office to after-hours, Paves recommends starting with a sleek blow-dry and minimal products like a volumizer to add body or a defrizzer to smooth hair. Apply a moisture cream in the evening for a more modern, sophisticated look. An off-center or side part is less severe than a center part and will help create a more dramatic effect.
You can choose the right stylists and products, but you can’t hide from environmental factors that take a toll on your hair. Culprits can range from air conditioning indoors to dry cabin air inside an airplane to sunlight or snow. But, says Pat Peterson, director of research and development for Aveda, the most harmful environmental factors are those you can actually see. “As long as there are particles for your eye to see, as in steam or smoke, which are actually little bits of ash surrounded by bits of gas that are floating in air, there is cause to take cover. If your house was dusty, you’d cover the furniture,” she explains. For more information on how the environment affects our hair, see Chapter 6.
“Since the scalp excretes sebum, which can leave hair fine and limp, it needs to be cleansed, toned, and conditioned as hair requires,” explains Rick Goldberg, head coach for Progressive Beauty Brands, a company with hair care products that contain tea tree oil, green tea, and lotus to treat the hair problems in a natural, homeopathic way. If you have a dry, flaky scalp or dandruff, advises Goldberg, use tea tree, which is antimicrobial, antifungal, and antibacterial by its inherent properties. Tea tree is also a natural inhibitor for children who are exposed to lice. Green tea neutralizes free radicals and, according to recent studies, acts as a UVA/UVB inhibitor so it can protect the hair and scalp from the sun while maintaining vibrant hair color. The lotus flower, a Chinese herb that can be found in some health food stores, has the appearance of luster and sheen. It is the perfect remedy for dry or dull-looking hair since it helps balance the scalp, condition hair, and add sheen or shine.
Daily massage can help keep the scalp healthy by encouraging the flow of nutrients, thus preventing hair from falling out prematurely. For a quick daily massage, use fingertips to massage tiny circles from the nape of the neck to the forehead, and across the hairline. If your hair is oily, massage gently. If it is dry, massage more vigorously to stimulate oil glands. Brushing hair helps too, and, if you really want to have fun, a headstand every now and then keeps the blood circulating.
Ask yourself what specific benefits your hair type requires. Is your hair dry or damaged? Does it need more or less conditioning? Should you choose a clarifying shampoo to strip away residue that can build up on hair? Do you like the fragrance? Do you want a shampoo that will make your hair shine? Ingredients like macadamia nut, olive, jojoba oil, or shea butter have been used for years to give hair a shiny coat. Two-in-one shampoos are another option and ideal for women who want to save time, money, and space in their gym bags.
make your own
Shampoo: Skip the soap, which can dry both the hair and scalp and may contain chemicals that penetrate the bloodstream through hair follicles. Instead, add a few drops of lemon juice to your regular shampoo each time you wash or combine triple-strength herbal tea (chamomile for light hair, rosemary or sage for dark) to an equal amount of your shampoo. You can also moisturize dry, brittle hair with vegetable oil to create an oil-enriched shampoo; add unflavored gelatin or an egg to your regular formula for a protein shampoo; or combine alcohol and water (1 to 3 parts) for a sudsless shampoo.
The most important ingredients to look for in choosing a conditioner are fatty acids. Look at the first five ingredients listed on the label and you’ll see mentions of acetyl or stearyl alcohol and other ingredients ending in “amine,” which are designed to combat static. A creamy-feeling formula, one that feels like a hand cream, will work best. It’s also relevant to choose a conditioner that’s designed for your hairstyle, like a volume conditioner to give hair a lift or a curl-enhancing conditioner to play up your curls.
make your own
Conditioner: Avocado adds protein and oil for shine and manageability. Egg yolk mixed with two teaspoons of castor oil and one teaspoon of rum moisturizes dry hair. Mayonnaise mixed with one beaten egg yolk and one teaspoon each of vinegar and powdered kelp adds shine and body. Honey, on its own, conditions any shade. Massage any of these natural conditioners into dry hair, cover with a shower cap, and allow to permeate for 30-60 minutes before shampooing. To speed up the process, wrap hot, moist towels around your head.
Different products do the trick, according to your hair’s texture. But here are some guidelines: Hair sprays work well for any hair type; choose one with a lighter chemical grade if you have fine hair that gets easily weighed down. Gels add texture, volume, and shine, increase holding power, control frizz, provide moisture, and smooth hair. Choose a lightweight formula for thin hair, save the extra-hold for thicker, wavier locks. The same rules basically apply for other styling products. Mousse is designed to increase hold and shine and combat static; choose a formula that can be easily brushed out so hair isn’t sticky. Pomades increase the degree of hold, texture, and shine. Wax sticks add shine and help lock in moisture.
make your own
Hair gel: Instead of gel, mix noncarbonated or flat beer with water as a final rinse to control flyaway hair and keep it in place. Try a stiffly beaten egg white as a protein-enriching styling mousse. Simmer one tablespoon of flaxseeds in 1 cup of water until slightly thickened for a setting lotion. Substitute your regular hairspray with a spritz of lemon juice from a misting bottle to add resiliency, body, and highlights. Put your wax stick on the back burner and try blending 1 teaspoon of instant, dry milk (whole milk for normal to dry hair, skim for oily hair) with 1 cup water to create a wave. For homemade pomade, brew double-strength rosemary tea to preserve curls in damp weather (use only on darker hair colors).
These chemical treatments are designed to help change the color, texture, and structure of your hair. For best results, try both types of treatments in a salon under professional guidance; if performed incorrectly, the results can be disastrous. And don’t attempt to create your own formulas. The risk of seriously damaging your hair isn’t worth playing chemist.
make your own
Chamomile and Calendula Hair Lightener: The bright yellow of chamomile and calendula flowers resembles the sun and is bound to brighten your hair the same way. This temporary rinse lightens and brightens blond hair, increasing its softness and adding movement. Gentle highlights add texture and depth of color. Botanical formula: 4 cups water, 2 cups dried chamomile flowers, 2 cups dried calendula flowers, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon lemon extract.
In a saucepan, bring water, chamomile, and calendula to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes. Remove from heat, strain liquid into a bowl or pitcher, and stir in lemon juice and extract. When cool enough for application, stand in your shower and slowly pour the solution over your head, massaging it into your hair to cover all strands thoroughly. Cover hair with a plastic shower cap. Leave on for at least 40 minutes, then remove shower cap and rinse hair thoroughly with warm water. Use every other day for lasting effects.
make your own
Black Tea-Rosemary Rinse for Dark Brown Hair: Use the strong qualities of black teas and richly roasted coffees to add natural dark brown highlights to hair without damaging it. Tea and coffee, which are known to stain, are perfect for coloring brown hair. Rosemary is also an exceptional coloring agent for brown hair. Use the following recipe every other day on light to dark brown hair to add richness to brown hair of any shade. For a milder effect, use one less teaspoon of coffee and one less tea bag.
Botanical formula: 7 bags black tea or 2½ tablespoons loose tea, 2 tablespoons chopped oregano leaves, 2 tablespoons chopped rosemary leaves, 2 cups water, 1 tablespoon instant coffee, 1 tablespoon lemon extract. In a saucepan over medium heat, mix the tea, oregano, and rosemary with the water; steep for 45-50 minutes. Remove tea bags and filter out oregano, rosemary and loose tea if used. Place liquid in a small pitcher. Add coffee and lemon extract to liquid and stir until combined. Let cool, then while standing in your shower slowly pour the solution over your head, massaging it into your hair and scalp and covering all strands thoroughly. Cover hair with a plastic shower cap for 30 minutes. Remove shower cap and rinse hair thoroughly with warm water.
make your own
Oil Treatment: Weekly hot oil treatments can add luster and shine to the hair. Oils that most effectively penetrate the hair include olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, and corn oil. Here’s how to do it yourself: Heat ¼ cup of oil in a small saucepan over a very low flame until just warm. Remove from heat and let cool for about one minute. Massage warm oil into your hair. Cover hair with a plastic shower cap and then with a towel wrap. Leave on for 30 minutes, then rinse and shampoo as usual. Or, try this creative concoction from Philip B.:
Honey-Maple Hot Oil Treatment Botanical Formula: 1 teaspoon canola oil, 1 teaspoon margarine (softened), 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon coconut oil or extract, 1 teaspoon orange oil or extract, 1 tablespoon light sesame oil, 1 teaspoon macadamia nut oil, 1 teaspoon avocado oil, 1 teaspoon maple syrup, 1 teaspoon honey. Put all ingredients into a small saucepan, except for the syrup and honey. Heat over a very low flame until just warmed (about 2-3 minutes). Remove from heat. Cool for about 1 minute and add syrup and honey. Test with your finger to make sure it’s not too hot to apply to scalp. Massage oil mixture into hair and then cover with a plastic shower cap. Leave on for 10 to 20 minutes. Remove shower cap and apply a mixture of equal parts shampoo and water and work into hair. Lather and rinse.