One of the most distressing factors on the list of unpleasant side effects for cancer patients is hair loss. For some women, whose regular salon visits are a part of a whole well-honed grooming routine, the news that hair loss could be imminent is a nasty shock. Other women who may not suffer from the disease but suddenly find themselves losing hair can also suffer embarrassment, humility, and lack of self-esteem.
A recent study by the Women’s Institute for Fine and Thinning Hair shows that women with thinning hair feel less feminine, less likely to succeed professionally, embarrassed, helpless, less desirable to men, socially unacceptable, and less sexy, making it difficult for them to cope with everyday life. But thanks to psychological experts, support groups, and salon programs designed to meet their specific needs, women who are undergoing the loss of their hair have new hope and a brighter outlook.
MYTH: Stress causes permanent hair loss.
FACT: Although it’s true that stress can be a factor in the temporary thinning of hair, it has no lasting effect on the condition of the hair. Once stress is treated, thinning no longer occurs as a symptom of that condition.
“While losing your hair may not be as dramatic or traumatic as losing a breast, the effects can be almost as far-reaching in terms of self-image,” says Rachel Schultz, a psychotherapist, based in New Jersey, specializing in women’s issues. “Hair has always been called the crowning glory, the flowing tresses, the hallmark of femininity. When we start to lose it, we can see how it affects our self-image and sense of self as a woman.” To put the problem in perspective, Schultz suggests directing the focus on the things about yourself that you value beyond your physical image, such as your career and your role in your family. And, she says, just because you are losing your hair doesn’t mean you still can’t be sexual and attractive. “It’s important to continue to wear makeup, work out, keep yourself in shape, and focus on who you are and what you are inside,” she says. “Concentrate on the power and strength you reflect. If you start slipping, join a support group that deals with women who are struggling with self-image issues.”
Women who are down about losing their hair can have their faith restored by the people who deal with the issues involved every day. “People come to me in tears because their hair is coming out and they have seen doctors who tell them there’s nothing they can do about it,” says Lynn Glaze, owner of Sheer Reflections in Pineville, Louisiana, a John Paul Mitchell Systems and Rogaine Trainer for the JPMS Color and Professional Scalp Therapy System and a member of the American Cancer Society’s team of specialists who help women regain their self-esteem and their stylish appearance after cancer therapy. “I take them through testimonies from other people and show them their successes. We don’t have any clients that have been put on the Rogaine regimen that have stopped using it, and having their hairdressers involved works to their advantage.”
Glaze points out that hairdressers are among a handful of professionals—which includes doctors—who actually touch people. “When you put your hands on someone, they trust you,” she says. “They are open to trying the hair regrowth and volumizing products that a stylist recommends.” Surprisingly enough, Glaze says it’s more of a challenge to get hairdressers to understand that this is a serious thing. “It doesn’t matter what someone else sees, it’s how you feel about yourself.”
Through Paul Mitchell’s scalp therapy system, clients are encouraged to use shampoo and conditioner even after the first shampoo, during which time oil and debris on the scalp is removed. The hair regrowth and volumizing products should also be used in your daily hair care regime, and within a month, you will see half an inch of new growth. “It’s true, look in the mirror,” says Glaze. “There will be tiny strands of hair that aren’t long enough to lay over yet, but there will be a lot of growth going on.” One of the hardest things about treating thinning hair is to recognize that it’s happening to you and practice preventative maintenance prior to the actual hair loss. “A bit of excess hair loss is normal,” says Glaze. “But if you notice a good amount of hair in the drain after you shampoo, or after you run your fingers through it when it’s wet, you should be addressing the issue. Instead, many women are embarrassed about it and come into the salon under the pretense of getting a haircut.” Glaze advises trying Paul Mitchell’s Botanical Hydrating shampoo, which provides body building for fine, thinning, or color-treated hair and Botanical Body Building Rinse detangler for fine, thinning hair. Paul Mitchell products also use thermal strengthening therapy to heat up and increase the circulation on the scalp and come packaged in a kit with Rogaine (2 percent Monoxil for women, 5 percent for men).
For many women, hair loss is a stress-related issue. Schultz advises using various stress-management techniques to control your stress level and bring your rate of hair growth back to normal. According to Schultz, deep breathing is key. “Focus on the center of the body and the diaphragm and breath very deeply,” she says. “Next, try visualizations. Close your eyes and picture yourself in a calm, serene place like a park or at the ocean and think of this image all the time. After the first few times, you will find a combination that works for you, whether it includes breathing, visualizations, music, even knitting, or anything else that you’ve found de-stresses you.” If stress isn’t the problem, maybe there are psychotherapy issues to deal with. Try to incorporate cognitive behavioral techniques that make you feel better about yourself. Keep telling yourself that you are beautiful, strong, and worthy. Says Schultz, “If you say it enough and internalize it, you’ll believe it.”
At the Avon salon in New York City, hair care and styling advice comes completely free for cancer patients. Senior stylist Joelle has pioneered the Breast Cancer Awareness Support Program, after being inspired by two sisters who were diagnosed the same week with different cancers. The sisters subsequently had very different hair needs—one wore a wig, one did not. After carefully and sensitively helping them through their individually tailored hair treatments, Joelle decided to devote every Wednesday afternoon from 5:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M. to cancer patients and all their hair needs.
“My goal is to be a friend and a support system,” she says. “Most medics can’t gauge how much hair you will lose when you undergo chemotherapy, so first it’s about bending to patients’ needs. It can be pretty traumatic losing any hair and there are ways to overcome it. If hair falls out sufficiently to warrant needing a wig, I suggest patients buy two. We can cut one to their own hair length and the other to a shorter style, which they wear around the house, while the other is being washed. This gets them used to shorter hairstyles and the regrowth procedure. Also, if they decide after hair is thinning to cut it all off, I never do it in one fell swoop. I patiently take them through a series of haircuts to show how they can look at all differentiating lengths. I don’t bring up the word ‘wig’ until the patient does. Only then do I advise on where to buy and the benefits of human hair or synthetic.”
Although losing your hair can cause you stress or lead you to become depressed, the reverse is also true: feeling stressed out or depressed can actually lead to hair loss. Depression can cause imbalances in your physical body, affecting your entire endocrine system and causing hair loss as a side effect. According to Mitch Peritz, Washington, D.C.—based chiropractor and nutritionist, “There are many factors that contribute to depression, which all play a role in hair loss. Physiologic factors include the endocrine system and the production and balance of certain hormones, especially cortisol, thyroid hormones, and estrogen. Blood glucose levels are also related to stress and hair loss, as well as specific neurotransmitters, including L-hydroxytryptophan. Cortisol, produced from the adrenal glands, increases or decreases with the amount of stress that a person experiences. Fluctuations in the amount of cortisol, Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), and estrogen can all contribute to hair loss. These are all affected by stress and conditions such as pregnancy and menopause. After menopause, it is important to evaluate DHEA levels because if they are abnormal, the type of estrogen that a woman is taking may have to be changed.
“Decreased amounts of thyroid hormones will also cause hair loss. It is often difficult to determine if a person is hypothyroid. Blood tests are not always accurate and many different lab tests may have to be performed. Serial body temperature measurements as well as iodine absorption tests may help diagnose hypothyroidism. Other clinical signs include depression, headaches, cold extremities, dry hair and skin problems, and gastrointestinal abnormalities. Queen Anne’s sign is the name of a condition that causes a person to lose the lateral third part of the eyebrow, and this is often a diagnostic for hypothyroidism.
“Optimal organ function is also crucial for hair homeostasis. Certain diseases and conditions—or even aging—can interfere with the body’s ability to produce specific hormones or to eliminate toxins from the body, which can cause depression and hair loss. The proper function of the adrenal glands can influence the utilization and production of the thyroid hormones. The entire endocrine system along with the body’s hormones interplay to maintain proper organ function.
“There are other things that can affect the thyroid hormones. Iodine is important for the production of these hormones, and things such as fluoride and chlorine may displace iodine, causing a decrease in the thyroid hormone production. Some people may have to avoid certain toothpastes, tap water, or swimming, if they have sensitivities to these substances. There are also certain foods that interfere with the production of thyroid hormones, including millet grains and cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, kale, brussel sprouts, and mustard greens.”
There are plenty of styling tricks for hair that’s just starting to thin or fall out. Shampoo with products made with dimethicone and dimethicone copolyol, which build hair volume. Most thickening shampoos are designed to add body and improve texture. If using a thickening shampoo, it’s a good idea to condition hair before, to get the benefits of conditioning without weighing hair down. When styling, use a blow dryer at a low setting to add volume to your hair and help point it in the right direction to style. Mousses or gels can make hair look thinner by weighing it down. Instead, use a good root lifter with resin and plant extract to help lift hair at the root without stiffness and a volumizer with panthenol to thicken hair fibers for fuller-looking hair. After drying hair completely, mist hair with a good hair spray or finishing spray, then comb through, and style as you like. The right haircut and color can also make a difference. According to Lynn Glaze, cutting a few layers into your otherwise one-level look adds depth and makes hair appear a bit thicker. She shows her clients how to use styling and heat-protective products and illustrates different styling techniques, using round brushes and curling irons while they are in the chair, so they know how to style their hair when they get home. Lightening or highlighting the front of the hair draws attention to those areas and makes the thinning areas less noticeable, especially if you have a drastic contrast between your skin and hair color.
Changes in our physical appearance can have a profound impact on our emotional attitude. And though it’s important to acknowledge a loss—even when it’s hair—there’s no reason to be discouraged. There are many possibilities when it comes to hair replacement—from pharmaceutical and surgical treatments to natural and nutritional remedies.