Publishing information

This 9th edition published June 2018 by

Rough Guides Ltd

Distribution

UK, Ireland and Europe

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Woodslane; info@woodslane.com.au

Southeast Asia

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Maps © Apa Digital AG and Rough Guides Ltd

CREATIVE TEAM Editor: Editors: Helen Abramson, Emma Gibbs, Joe Staines, Georgia Stephens Layout: Ankur Guha, Pradeep Thapliyal Cartography: Katie Bennett, Ed Wright Picture editor: Marta Bescos Sanchez, Aude Vauconsant Managing editors: Rachel Lawrence, Andy Turner Editorial assistant: Aimee White Cover photo research: Marta Bescos Sanchez Senior DTP coordinator: Dan May Managing director: Agnieszka Mizak

DIGITAL PRODUCTION TEAM

Pradeep Thapliyal, Ankur Guha, Amit Verma

No part of this ebook may be reproduced in any form without the permission from the publisher except for the quotation of brief passages in reviews.

This digital edition published 2018 by Rough Guides Ltd.

ISBN: 978-1-78919-418-0

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Print edition ISBN: 978-0-24130-641-3

The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.

Help us update

We’ve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that the 9th edition of The Rough Guide to Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei is accurate and up-to-date. However, things change – places get “discovered”, opening hours are notoriously fickle, restaurants and rooms raise prices or lower standards. If you feel we’ve got it wrong or left something out, we’d like to know, and if you can remember the address, the price, the hours, the phone number, so much the better.

Please send your comments with the subject line “Rough Guide Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei Update” to mail@uk.roughguides.com. We’ll credit all contributions and send a copy of the next edition (or any other Rough Guide if you prefer) for the very best emails.

About the authors

Marco Ferrarese has lived in Penang since 2009, from where he covers Malaysia, India and the larger Southeast Asian region for a number of international publications, including Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, The Guardian, BBC Travel, Air Asia Travel 3Sixty° and Nikkei Asian Review. His debut novel Nazi Goreng (2013) was a bestseller in Malaysia until it was banned by the Ministry of Home Affairs in 2015. He has also played guitar in Malaysian hardcore punk bands, earned a PhD in anthropology from Monash University Malaysia, and participated in the country’s principal art and literary festivals. He and his Malaysian wife are on the road most of the time. Find out more about him and his books at Wmarcoferrarese.com and Wmonkeyrockworld.com.

Richard Lim Not to be confused with his Singapore journalist namesake, Richard Lim (Wplus.google.com/+RichardLim) has been dabbling on the fringes of travel and science journalism for many years. He lives in London.

Simon Willmore (@SiWillmore), a journalist, author and editor, lived in Kuala Lumpur for three years and loved every minute of it. This is his fourth book for Rough Guides, having also co-authored titles on France, India and Spain, and he has contributed to everything from blogs for National Geographic Traveller to a technology column in Woman magazine.

Charles Young has been travelling since university and, as well as working on well over a dozen Rough Guide titles, has taught English in Catalunya, run a coffee shop in Hong Kong, been a publican in South Korea and worked in the spice trade in India. He currently lives in deepest, darkest China, but returns to the UK soon.

Acknowledgements

Marco Ferrarese Thanks to Andy Turner who brought me on board, Richard Lim for his invaluable help with the project and Helen Abramson for the careful editing. A special thanks with hugs goes to my wife Kit Yeng Chan, who once again was my co-pilot and morale booster during this umpteenth research trip. And then, thanks to all the people who helped me out in one way or another during the different legs of the research: in Penang, thanks to Gareth Richards and Gerakbudaya Bookshop, Rebecca Duckett-Wilkinson, Cole Yew at Soundmaker, Paul Augustin and all the friends who shared information on George Town’s burgeoning art scene. In Taiping, thanks to Yin and Sojourn Beds & Cafe. In Ipoh, thanks to CP Lo, Anba Razen and Law Siak Hong. In Tanah Rata, thanks to Gerard and family. In Lenggong, many thanks to Hock Seng Ng and Pinky Mok, who adopted me as a family member. On Pangkor Island, thanks to Mohan, Bavanni and family at Tiger Rock, and all the staff at Nipah Guesthouse. In Langkawi, thanks to Kay Mohlman and Richard Krause for putting me up and the good times. In Kuala Lipis, thanks to Mister Appu for all the trekking information. In Jerantut and Taman Negara, thanks to Auntie Angie and NKS Travel. In Dabong, thanks to Pak Din and Rose House. And last but not least, thanks to the wild elephant who, after I’d spent ten years criss-crossing the peninsula on the East-West Highway without luck, finally showed up and made my day.

Richard Lim I’d like to thank, in no particular order: the staff at Sabah Tourism, especially Robin, Diana and Noredah; Rodzan and Norliza at Sabah Parks; Lucy and Karen in KK; Anton, C.K., Gert et al. in and around Sandakan; Itisha, Simon and Suzan in Lahad Datu; Orou Sapulot; K. Ravi Mandalam; Rory and Kay; Melanie and Aida; Gavin Bate and Tom; Ann Otegil; James Burns; Cede Prudente; Surin Suksuwan; Elyrice; Janice Nga; Robin Hanbury-Tenison; Sophie Grig; Harrison Ngau; Maurice Balang and Gareth. In Singapore, thanks to the Singapore Tourism Board, John Gee; Michael Meyer; Quek I-Gek; and the Bukit Brown posse. Thanks also to my family, plus David Leffman and Ooi Kee Beng.

Simon Willmore First, thanks to Annabelle for always understanding my love for Malaysia (I can sincerely say it is one of the greatest countries in the world) and letting me go back so many times – I love you. Toine, Philip, Alberto, Rachel, Andrei: thanks as always for looking after an old friend. Jazmin and family, Sonny, Justin: thanks for showing me around. To the whole team at RG HQ and in particular Andy, Georgia, Joe: it’s been an absolute pleasure working with you, as always.

Charles Young I’d like to thank my wife Qing Qing for being there on the journey; Emma, Andy and Georgia at RG; Kester and Anna for their hospitality on the way; Kang, Zeck and Deen in Kota Bharu, and Awi in Terengganu, for keeping the backpacker spirit alive; the Sarawak posse at Mazlan’s in Cherating; Antoine and Lolo, the guys at the forestry office, at the (now nomadic) tourist office, and Paul at AAB, in Kuching; Julian and family in Bario; and of course all the Malaysian people we met on the way who were, as always, so friendly, welcoming and helpful.

Readers’ updates

Thanks to all the readers who have taken the time to write in with comments and suggestions (and apologies if we’ve inadvertently omitted or misspelt anyone’s name):

Steve Baete, Blaž Cugmas, Val Johnson, Wieteke Kalkema, John Liu, Steve Locke, Monica Mackaness and John Garrett, Maria and Steffen, Nisha Pasha, Tara Scarfe, Veerle Van de Catsye, Damien White.

Photo credits

All photos © Rough Guides, except the following:

(Key: t-top; c-centre; b-bottom; l-left; r-right)

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Rainforest World Music Festival (t); Picfair (c); iStock (b)

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Cover Tea plantation, Cameron Highlands Alan Copson / AWL Images

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