Hummus Pitryot

Every once in a while, a guy arrives at the restaurant with a wrinkled brown paper sack full of the most enormous clusters of Hen-of-the-Woods mushrooms I’ve ever seen. We don’t call to place an order; he just shows up. He’s a part-time ski instructor who spends some of his time foraging in the mushroom-rich woods of the Brandywine Valley, just outside of Philadelphia. Pitryot, mushrooms in Hebrew, are a classic hummus accompaniment and a great way to ratchet up the earthy and meaty flavors while still keeping it vegan. Hen-of-the-Woods work well because their “petals” get crispy when roasted, adding a nice textural contrast to the hummus. (The name of this mushroom came from its resemblance to the ruffled tail feathers of a hen. It is also referred to by its Japanese name, maitake.) Any mushroom will do, even the lowly but underrated white button mushroom, as long as you use a screaming-hot skillet and don’t crowd the pan.

● Break up 1½ cups Hen-of-the-Woods mushrooms into 1- to 2-inch pieces. Film the bottom of a large skillet with canola oil and heat over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms along with 2 slivered garlic cloves. Cook, stirring, until the mushrooms are brown and crisp in places, about 8 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill and toss. Serve over 1 recipe Hummus Tehina and top with chopped fresh parsley, paprika, and olive oil.