Fish Kofte in Broth

Serves 4

Kofte generally refers to a highly seasoned ground-meat mixture that is formed on a stick and grilled like a kebab. Most commonly made with lamb or beef, kofte in various forms are a staple throughout the Middle Eastern world, from Turkey to Iran to Southeast Asia and, of course, Israel. In this version, the kofte are made with ground fish mixed with bulgur wheat, which acts as a binder and helps them retain moisture. Poaching the delicate fish balls in a rich, aromatic broth also keeps the fish succulent, and the exchange of flavor between the fish and the broth elevates each component.

I love grouper or striped bass here, but you can use any fish with firm flesh so that the kofte have some texture and the right density. Because the fish is ground, this recipe is great for the thinner fillets near the tail that are difficult to cook without drying out. As with many of the soups in this chapter, the basic elements of this recipe can be easily adapted to whatever is in your refrigerator or in season. In springtime, I like to load up the broth with ramps, fresh favas, and English peas, plus a ton of herbs.

• kofte
• ½ cup bulgur wheat
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• ½ cup minced shallots
• 1 pound raw firm white fish, such as grouper, striped bass, or branzino, coarsely pulsed in a food processor
• ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon baharat (see sidebar)
• broth
• 2 quarts Fish Fumet (see recipe)
• 1 cup sliced asparagus (tips left whole)
• ½ cup shelled fresh fava beans, boiled for 1 minute and peeled
• ½ cup trimmed and halved green beans
•   Chopped fresh mint and parsley, for serving
•   Lemon juice, for serving

● For the kofte: Put the bulgur in a large bowl and cover with cold water by several inches. Let the bulgur soak until it doubles in size, about 1 hour. Drain well and set aside.

● Warm the oil in a skillet over medium-low heat and add the shallots. Cook, stirring frequently, until they have softened but not browned, about 10 minutes. Transfer the shallots to a large bowl and let cool to room temperature.

● Add the bulgur, ground fish, parsley, garlic, salt, and baharat to the shallots and mix gently by hand until well combined. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing the plastic onto the surface of the mixture, and refrigerate for 1 hour.

● For the broth: Bring the fumet to a gentle simmer over medium heat in a stockpot. Using two spoons or by hand, form the fish mixture into small football-shaped balls about 2 inches long and drop them into the simmering broth. Add the asparagus, fava beans, and green beans. Cook until the fish is cooked through and the vegetables are just tender, about 8 minutes. Ladle into serving bowls, top with mint, parsley, and a squeeze of lemon juice, and serve.