Brussels Sprouts with Feta

Serves 4

Here i use the grill as part of a multistep cooking process, grilling halved Brussels sprouts on a rack over charcoal to char their cut sides and then gently poaching them in the oven in olive oil and vinegar. This way, the sprouts get the best of both worlds—the deep char and smoke of the grill and the tender, creamy interior from their long warm bath.

Don’t be afraid to let the Brussels sprouts get deep, dark brown on the grill—almost burnt. I first saw Marc do this at Vetri, scandalized by how long he seared Brussels sprouts in a pan. I’d have been expelled from culinary school for this violation of golden-brown protocol. But some things can take extreme caramelization without turning bitter—in fact, they benefit from it. Twice-Cooked Eggplant (see recipe) is another great example of how detours from classic French techniques can often lead to new and delicious territory. With this method, the Brussels sprouts are hard to overcook and retain a bit of snap along with the smoky, popcorn-y flavor from the grill.

We serve these Brussels sprouts at room temperature with feta and good bread. They are also great with roasted meat or fish.

Toss the Brussels sprouts with the salt and canola oil. Arrange, cut side down, in a grill basket and grill over very hot coals until the exteriors are nearly black, about 4 minutes. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 250°F. Warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium heat and add the onion and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft but not beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the wine, bring to a simmer, and cook until the wine has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add the vinegar and return to a simmer.

Add the Brussels sprouts, the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the oregano, and marjoram and toss to coat. Transfer to the oven and bake until the Brussels sprouts are very tender, about 1 hour. Serve topped with feta.