I wouldn’t say it’s impossible to make a traditional choucroute garnie without Alsatian charcuterie, but it would involve the difficult process of curing many cuts of pork yourself, a long and intense labor of love. Instead I’m offering you the recipe for slow-simmered choucroute, sans meaty garniture. You’ll need raw sauerkraut (sometimes called “lacto-fermented” or “wild” sauerkraut), which can be found in the refrigerated section of your gourmet or health-food store. This is delicious paired with baked ham, grilled sausages (like andouillette, if you’re brave), or poached salmon fillets, and boiled potatoes.
Serves 4
2 pounds raw fermented cabbage
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon goose fat or any mild-flavored oil (goose fat is traditional)
1 bay leaf
5 juniper berries
1 whole clove
1 clove garlic, crushed and peeled
5 to 10 whole black peppercorns
3 coriander seeds
1 cup white wine (preferably Riesling)
Salt and pepper to taste
Rinse the fermented cabbage in cold water once or twice, depending on the season (the older the cabbage, the more rinsing it will need). Drain in a colander, squeezing out the excess water.
Heat a large pot over a medium flame and sauté the onion in the fat or oil until it has wilted. Add the cabbage and the bay leaf, juniper berries, clove, garlic, peppercorns, and coriander seeds. Moisten with the wine and add enough water to barely cover the cabbage. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer gently, covered, for about 1 hour.
Stir the choucroute and check the liquid level. Some people like their choucroute crunchy and white; others prefer it soft and melting, lightly golden (I prefer the latter). Add up to a cup more water, depending on your taste. Cover and continue to simmer for another hour. The longer you cook choucroute, the more acidic it becomes, so start testing it for tenderness after 2 hours.
Before serving, remove as many of the whole spices as possible. Choucroute can be made in advance and reheated.