Part Three: The Recipes

Basic recipes for sauces and dressing
precede those for main dishes, which begin on page 44

Basil Dressing

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

2 large white mushrooms, cleaned and finely chopped

2 ripe, firm tomatoes, peeled and seeded (see page 32), finely chopped

1 handful basil leaves, finely chopped (reserve a few whole leaves to garnish)

Juice of 3 lemons

Salt and pepper to taste

1 cup (250 ml) olive oil

Place the shallots, mushrooms, and tomatoes in a mixing bowl, add the finely chopped basil leaves, setting aside a few for decoration. With, a fork, whisk the lemon juice, salt, pepper, and oil, and stir into vegetables.

Tomato Sauce

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced

2 onions, peeled and sliced

1 bouquet garni comprising 3 stalks of parsley,

1 sprig thyme, and 1 bay leaf

2 lb (1 kg) flavorful tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and roughly chopped (see page 32)

Heat the oil in a pan over medium heat, saute the onion and garlic, stirring often so they do not brown. Add the bouquet garni, tomatoes, salt, and pepper, and cook, stirring from time to time, until the mixture thickens, about 30 minutes.

Measurements

Measurements in this book are given in volume as far as possible: 1 measuring cup contains 250 ml (roughly 8 oz); 1 teaspoon contains 5 ml, while 1 tablespoon contains 15 ml or the equivalent of 3 teaspoons.

Servings

Unless otherwise stated, all recipes are for 4 people.

Ingredients

When a recipe lists a hard-to-find or an unusual ingredient, see pages 31 and 39 for possible substitutes.

Wild Asparagus and Snow Peas with Poached Eggs (see recipe, page 43).

Orange Buerre Blanc Sauce

3 oranges, reserve zest of one orange and juice all three

1 glass dry white wine

2 shallote, peeled and finely chopped

1¼ cups (250 g) chilled butter, cubed small

To make the sauce, combine orange juice, wine, and shallots in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and reduce until only 1 tablespoon of liquid remains. Over very low heat, gradually whisk butter cubes into the reduced liquid, then finish by adding the zest. This orange beurre blanc sauce—which as you can see takes no effort whatsoever—should be kept warm until you are ready to serve.

Buerre Blanc

¾ cup (200 ml) white wine

1 tablespoon white vinegar

1 sprig thyme

1 bay leaf

3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon heavy (double) cream

¾ cup (150 g) butter, at room temperature

Juice of ½ lemon

Put the wine and vinegar, the thyme and bay leaf, the shallots, salt, and pepper in a small, non-reactive saucepan. Bring to a boil and, very gently, reduce to 1 tablespoon. Discard the thyme and bay leaf. Switch off the heat and add the cream, then the butter, bit by bit, whisking by hand, and, finally, add the juice of half a lemon. Strain through a chinois or sieve and hold over a simmering double boiler.

Sauce Vierge

Generous pinch of salt

Juice of 2 lemons

Freshly ground pepper

8 tablespoons olive oil

2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut in very small dice

1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

1 tablespoon black olives, from Nice if possible, pitted and sliced into rings

In a non-reactive saucepan, dissolve the salt in the lemon juice, then add pepper and olive oil and whisk together with a fork. Add the remaining ingredients and set aside at room temperature.

Champagne Sauce

4 tablespoons olive oil

5 green asparagus, washed and cut into pieces

2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

1¼ cups (300 ml) Champagne (substitute with dry sparkling wine)

2 cups (500 ml) heavy (double) cream

Pinch saffron

½ cup (100 g) unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature

Heat oil in a pan and gently cook asparagus and shallots. Add the champagne then reduce until almost dry. Add the cream, saffron, salt, and pepper and cook very gently for a few more minutes, stirring. Process or blend the sauce, then strain through a chinois or sieve. Return to low heat, whisk in butter cubes, remove from direct heat and reserve in a double boiler.

Red Wine Sauce

3 cups (750 ml) Juliénas, or other red Beaujolais, wine

1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped

1 bouquet garni of 1 stalk parsley, 1 sprig thyme, and 1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon sugar

Coarsely ground mignonette peppercorns

1¼ cups (300 ml) veal fond

¾ cup (200 ml) carrot juice (fresh is possible)

⅔ cup (125 g) butter

In a saucepan, very gently reduce the wine at a simmer with the shallots, bouquet garni, sugar, and a good pinch of mignonette, until about 1 cup (250 ml) liquid is left. Add the fond, and reduce by half again. Add the carrot juice and correct the seasoning. Whisk in the butter, a little at a time. Strain through a chinois or sieve and keep warm in the top of a simmering double boiler.

Aspergaes Sauvaes et Pois Gourmands
aux Oeufs Mollets
Wild Asparagus and Snow Peas with Poached
Eggs (Catherine Guerraz, Chez Catherine)

1 bunch wild asparagus (or baby green asparagus), tough stems discarded, tied in a bundle

13 oz (400 g) snow peas (mange-tout), threads removed

4 cups (1 liter) water

2 tablespoons white vinegar

4 eggs

1 tomato, peeled (see page 32), dipped in iced water, deseeded and diced

Zest of 1 lemon (removed with a peeler and cut into thin strips), blanced and refreshed in iced water

⅓ cup (30 g) parmesan, shaved

A little chervil and some chives

Vinaigrette

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 tablespoons peanut (groundnut) oil

Cook asparagus and snow peas in salted, boiling water for 5 minutes. Taste the vegetables, they should still be firm. Drain and plunge into a bowl of iced water so that they will stay green until you are ready to serve. Drain again. Set aside.

To make a vinaigrette, whisk together with a fork the balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper, and oil in a bowl. Set this aside, too.

Just before serving, bring the water to a simmer in a shallow pan, and add the white vinegar. Break an egg into a bowl, then carefully slip it into the water. The water should simmer, not boil! Cook for 4 minutes, remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel (kitchen roll). Do the same for the three remaining eggs.

On pretty plates, arrange the asparagus in a circle around the edges, place the peas in the center and an egg on top. Sprinkle with chopped tomato, lemon zest, shaved parmesan, and finish with the vinaigrette.

Garnish this coolly stunning dish with sprigs of chervil and chives, and accompany with a white Macron or a Savennières (photograph on page 40).