I based these funky-feminine fingerless gloves on a pair that my sister Jen gave me for Christmas a few years ago. They came from Dosa, one of my favorite stores in Manhattan (conveniently located in the same neighborhood as my shop). I wore them so often that they were nearly threadbare, so I decided to create another pair as an homage to the first. I worked with Jade Sapphire’s 2-Ply Cashmere Silk, doubled, swapping in a second color for one of the strands of yarn at the top of the hand; the two skeins required make at least two pairs.
SIZES
Women’s X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, 1X-Large)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
6 (6½, 7, 7½, 8)" circumference
YARN
Jade Sapphire 2-Ply Cashmere Silk (55% silk / 45% cashmere; 400 yards / 55 grams): 1 hank each #073 Bougainvillea (A) and #107 Masala (B)
NEEDLES
One pair straight needles size US 4 (3.5 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Crochet hook size US E/4 (3.5 mm) and smooth waste yarn (if using Provisional CO; see Notes); stitch marker
GAUGE
24 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st), using 2 strands of yarn held together
STITCH PATTERN
Seed Stitch (multiple of 2 sts + 1; 1-row repeat)
All Rows: *K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
NOTES
Gloves are worked from side to side, beginning at the outside edge of the hand.
If working a Provisional Cast-On and Kitchener stitch are keeping you from making this project, you can cast on with a regular Long-Tail Cast-On (see page 131) and bind off loosely, then sew the cast-on and bound-off edges together.
Back of Hand
With 2 strands of A held together, using Provisional (Crochet Chain) CO (see page 132), CO 41 (45, 45, 49, 49) sts. Purl 1 row.
Eyelet Row (WS): *P2tog, yo; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Next Row: Change to 1 strand each of A and B held together. Work 3 sts in Seed st, work in St st to last 3 sts, work in Seed st to end. Work even until piece measures 2 ½ (2 ¾, 3, 3 ¼, 3 ½)" from the beginning, ending with a WS row. Change to 2 strands of A held together. Work even until piece measures 3 (3 ¼, 3 ½, 3 ¾, 4)" from the beginning, ending with a WS row.
Thumb Opening
Next Row (RS): Work 19 (21, 21, 23, 23) sts in Seed st, work in St st to last 3 sts, work in Seed st to end. Work even for 1 row.
Next Row (RS): Work 7 (9, 9, 11, 11) sts, BO next 9 sts loosely in pattern, work to end. Work even for 2 rows, CO 9 sts over BO sts on first row, using Cable CO (see page 131).
Palm
Next Row (WS): Work 3 sts in Seed st, work in St st to last 3 sts, work in Seed st to end. Work even until piece measures 5 ¾ (6 ¼, 6 ¾, 7 ¼, 7¾)" from the beginning, ending with a RS row.
Eyelet Row (WS): *K2tog, yo; repeat from * to last st, k1. Purl 1 row. Leave sts on needle for finishing.
Finishing
Carefully unravel Provisional CO and place sts on needle. With WS facing, using Kitchener st (see page 128), graft edges together. Turn Glove RS out. Block if desired.
Left Glove
Work as for Right Glove to beginning of Thumb Opening.
Thumb Opening
Next Row (RS): Work 3 sts in Seed st, work 19 (21, 21, 23, 23) sts in St st, work in Seed st to end. Work even for 1 row.
Next Row (RS): Work 25 (27, 27, 29, 29) sts, BO next 9 sts loosely, work to end. Work even for 2 rows, CO 9 sts over BO sts on first row, using Cable CO.
Complete as for Right Glove.
Shown clockwise from top right: Toasted Almond paired with Pumpernickel, Huckleberry, Pomegranate, Cinnamon, Salsa, Dijon, and Licorice
These coasters make a warm and rich housewarming gift, especially when presented with a little something extra, such as a special tea or the ingredients and recipe for another hot beverage. They are double-knit with two colors, which means they look nearly identical on both sides. The first two rows on each side can be a little tricky to keep track of, but once you’ve got the pattern established, it flows right along. A set of two takes about four hours to finish.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 3 ½" square
YARN
Blue Sky Alpacas Melange (100% baby alpaca; 110 yards / 50 grams): 1 hank #809 Toasted Almond (A); 1 hank #803 Licorice, #804 Cinnamon, #805 Huckleberry, #806 Salsa, #807 Dijon, #813 Pomegranate, or #814 Pumpernickel (B)
NEEDLES
One pair double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 7 (4.5 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
GAUGE
37 ½ sts and 15 knit column rows in A (30 working rows) = 3" (7.5 cm) in Double-Knit Pattern
STITCH PATTERN
Double-Knit Pattern (multiple of 4 sts; 2-row repeat)
Note: The letter following the row number indicates the color to be used when working that row.
Row 1 B: Bring yarn to front, over A to twist strands, *k1, yf, slip 1, yb, slip 1, yf, slip 1, yb; repeat from * to end. Do not turn work; slide sts to opposite end of needle.
Row 1 A: With A, *yb, slip 1, yf, slip 1, yb, k1, yf, slip 1; repeat from * to end. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 1 B and 1 A for Double-Knit Pattern.
NOTES
This pattern is double-knit, which results in a fabric that is knit on both sides. Each row is worked in two passes, the first pass with B and the second pass with A.
When changing from A to B at the beginning of Row 1 B, twist the strands once to prevent a hole.
Coaster
Using A, CO 44 sts. Begin Double-Knit Pattern; work even until piece measures 3 ¼" from the beginning, ending with Row 1 B.
Next Row A: *K1, slip 1 wyif; repeat from * to end. Continuing in A, repeat last row once.
BO Row A: K2tog, *k2tog, pass first st on right-hand needle over second and off needle; repeat from * to end. Fasten off.
Finishing
Block as desired.
I’ve always loved the process of creating something dimensional out of something that is essentially flat, so making this house was a real treat for me. It’s so satisfying to sew together those flat pieces, then stuff and watch the whole thing come to life right before your eyes. Make it any color and embellish it to your heart’s content.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 5" square at base × 9" tall
YARN
Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% wool; 220 yards / 100 grams): 1 hank each #8010 (MC) and #2401 (A)
Paternayan Persian Yarn (100% Persian virgin wool; 8 yards): 1 hank each #420 (B), #556 (C), #760 (D), #770 (E), #960 (F), and #697 (G)
NEEDLES
One pair straight needles size US 6 (4 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Tapestry needle; polyester stuffing
GAUGE
22 sts and 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st)
STITCH PATTERN
Seed Stitch (odd number of sts; 1-row repeat)
All Rows: K1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
NOTE
The House begins at the peak of the Front gable, works down to the base of the Front, across the Bottom, then up to the peak of the Back gable. The Right Side is picked up from the Bottom, worked up and over the Roof, then down the Left Side to the Bottom.
Front
Using MC, CO 3 sts.
Increase Row 1 (RS): K1-f/b, k1, k1-f/b–5 sts. Purl 1 row.
Increase Row 2 (RS): K1, k1-f/b, knit to last 2 sts, k1-f/b, k1–7 sts. Purl 1 row.
Repeat Increase Row 2 every other row 11 times– 29 sts.
Work even for 5", ending with a WS row. Purl 1 row (turning row).
Bottom
Work even in St st for 5", ending with a WS row. Purl 1 row (turning row).
Back
Work even in St st for 5", ending with a WS row.
Decrease Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1–27 sts remain. Purl 1 row.
Repeat Decrease Row 1 every other row 11 times–5 sts remain.
Decrease Row 2 (RS): K1, ssk, k2tog–3 sts remain. Break yarn, leaving a 6" tail.
Thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight and fasten off.
Right Side
With RS facing, using MC, pick up and knit 29 sts along 1 side of Bottom, being careful to pick up sts between turning rows. Begin St st; work even for 5", ending with a WS row.
Roof
Change to A and Seed st; work even until piece measures 4" from color change, ending with a WS row. Purl 1 row (turning row). Work even in Seed st until piece measures 4" from turning row, ending with a RS row. Change to MC; work even for 1 row.
Left Side
Change to St st; work even for 5" from color change. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for finishing.
Finishing
Using MC and Mattress st (see page 126), sew Side and Roof seams, leaving 1 side of Roof unsewn for stuffing. Stuff House until plump. Sew final seam.
Embroidering Huggable House
Using B and Backstitch, outline door and window frames. Using B and Duplicate st (see page 130), work doorknob (see photo). Using C, fill in window panes (see photo). Using D, E, F, and G, work French knots for flowers along bottom edge of window and bottom perimeter of House (see photo).
Backstitch
Step 1: Place 4 safety pins or removable stitch markers to define the corners of the window or door.
Step 2: Cut a length of yarn no longer than your arm and thread a tapestry needle, leaving a tail approximately 5" long; do not tie a knot at the end of yarn.
Step 3: Insert the needle from the right side of the House down through the knitted fabric a few inches away from the marked stitch, then come up 2 stitches below the marked stitch, keeping in line vertically with the marked stitch. Pull the yarn through gently, leaving approximately 3" of yarn inside the stuffing.
Step 4: Insert the needle into the end of the previous stitch and bring it back out 2 stitches below where your yarn emerges from the surface (see photo at top right).
Repeat Step 4 until you come to the second marker. Work the horizontal stitches the same way, as seen in the photo at bottom right.
Step 5: When you are through, insert the tapestry needle into the last stitch and come out a few inches away, pull the yarn tight and trim the excess yarn, allowing the tail to disappear into the stuffing.
French Knots
Step 1: Cut a length of yarn no longer than your arm and thread a tapestry needle, leaving a tail approximately 5" long; do not tie a knot in the end of the yarn.
Step 2: Insert the needle from the right side of the House a few inches away from where you’d like your first knot to be, pull the needle back out where you’d like your first knot to be, pull the yarn through, leaving a tail approximately 5" long, to be woven in when you are through.
Step 3: Wrap the yarn around the needle twice, close to where you came out of the knitting, as shown in the top photo at right.
Step 4: *Insert the needle back into the fabric next to the stitch where it originally came out, then push the needle back up through the knitting to where you’d like your next knot to be, as in the photo at bottom right. Pull the yarn through, holding the wrapped yarn securely until you have pulled the entire length through.
Repeat Step 4 until you have worked as many French knots as you would like.
Step 5: When you are through, trim the excess yarn, allowing the tail to disappear into the stuffing.
Before I learned how to knit, I would watch my friend Kelly McKaig in fascination as she knit mitten after mitten on double-pointed needles, all the while telling me that I could do it, too. I didn’t believe her at the time, but now of course I am so thankful for her encouragement. Here is one of Kelly’s patterns—with a special detail, a Suri alpaca brioche-stitch cuff.
SIZES
Women’s Small (Medium, Large)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
6 ¾ (7 ½, 8 ½)" circumference
YARN
Blue Sky Alpacas Brushed Suri (67% baby Suri alpaca / 22% merino wool / 11% bamboo; 142 yards / 50 grams): 1 hank #900 Whipped Cream (A)
Blue Sky Alpacas Suri Merino (60% baby Suri alpaca / 40% merino wool; 164 yards / 100 grams): 1 hank #410 Snow (B)
NEEDLES
One set of four double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 6 (4 mm)
One set of four double-pointed needles size US 5 (3.75 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Stitch marker; waste yarn
GAUGE
17 sts and 20 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in Brioche Stitch, using 2 strands of A held together
21 sts and 28 rnds = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st) (knit every rnd), using 2 strands of B held together
ABBREVIATIONS
RLI (right lifted increase): Pick up st below next st on left-hand needle and place on left-hand needle; knit the picked-up st.
LLI (left lifted increase): Pick up st below last st on right-hand needle and place on left-hand needle; knit the picked-up st through the back loop.
STITCH PATTERN
Brioche Stitch (multiple of 2 sts; 2-rnd repeat)
Set-Up Rnd: *Yo, slip 1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 1: *P2tog (yo from previous rnd together with following st), slip 1, yo; repeat from * to end.
Rnd 2: *Yo, slip 1, k2tog (next st together with yo from previous rnd); repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 for Brioche Stitch.
NOTE
To work a yo at the beginning of a needle, bring the yarn forward (to the purl position). Keeping the yarn in front of the working (empty) needle, slip the first stitch, then bring the yarn over the needle and to the back when you work k1 or k2tog on the following stitch(es).
Cuff
Using larger needles and 2 strands of A held together, CO 26 (28, 30) sts. Divide sts among 3 needles [8-8-10 (8-10-10, 10-10-10)]. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts; place marker (pm) for beginning of rnd. Begin Brioche Stitch; work even until piece measures 4" from the beginning. Knit 1 rnd, knitting into the back of yo’s to close holes, and decreasing 3 (2, 3) sts evenly–36 (40, 42) sts remain. Change to smaller needles, B, and St st (knit every rnd); work even for 4 rnds.
Increase Rnd 1: LLI, k1, RLI, pm, knit to end of rnd–38 (42, 44) sts. Work even for 2 rnds.
Increase Rnd 2: LLI, knit to marker, RLI, slip marker (sm), knit to end–40 (44, 46) sts. Work even for 2 rnds.
Repeat Increase Rnd 2 every 3 rnds 4 times–48 (52, 54) sts. Work even for 2 rnds.
Divide for Thumb: Work 13 sts and place on waste yarn for Thumb, removing second marker, knit to end, CO 1 (1, 3) st(s) using Cable CO (see page 131)—36 (40, 44) sts remain.
Hand
Continuing in St st, work even for 4 ½", or to 1" less than desired length to Mitten Top.
Mitten Top
Decrease Rnd 1: *K2, k2tog; repeat from * to end–27 (30, 33) sts remain. Work even for 2 rnds.
Decrease Rnd 2: *K1, k2tog; repeat from * to end–18 (20, 22) sts remain. Work even for 2 rnds.
Decrease Rnd 3: *K2tog; repeat from * to end–9 (10, 11) sts remain. Cut yarn, leaving 8" tail. Thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and fasten off.
Thumb
Transfer 13 sts from waste yarn to 2 smaller dpns [4-9]. Rejoin yarn.
Rnd 1: With third dpn, pick up and knit 3 (3, 5) sts from gap, knit to end; pm for beginning of rnd–16 (16, 18) sts. Work even for 2 rnds.
Size Large Only
Decrease Rnd: K2, k2tog, knit to end–17 sts remain. Work even for 2 rnds. Repeat Decrease Rnd once–16 sts remain.
All Sizes
Working in St st, work even until piece measures 2" from picked-up sts.
Decrease Rnd 1: *K2, k2tog; repeat from * to end–12 sts remain. Work even for 2 rnds.
Decrease Rnd 2: *K1, k2tog; repeat from * to end–8 sts remain. Work even for 2 rnds.
Decrease Rnd 3: *K2tog; repeat from * to end–4 sts remain. Cut yarn, leaving 8" tail. Thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and fasten off.
Many years ago I found a stool with a seat cushion made out of I-cord at an antique store. Since then I’ve been playing around with techniques for making this type of cushion, attempting to figure out how to knit it all in one piece without having to sew I-cord together, and I’m happy to have finally worked it out. I love how modern the cushions look even though their inspiration was vintage. They fit on just about any dining chair so they make a great gift even if you don’t know the precise size and shape of the recipient’s seating. I finished a set of two in just under six hours.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 15" diameter
YARN
Blue Sky Alpacas Bulky (50% alpaca / 50% wool; 45 yards / 100 grams): 1 hank each #1004 Polar Bear (A), #1002 Silver Mink (B), and #1003 Porcupine (C)
NEEDLES
One pair double-pointed needles (dpn) size US 13 (9 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Removable stitch marker
GAUGE
4 sts and 6 rows = 2" (5 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st)
Note: Each I-Cord is approximately 7/8" wide.
NOTE
The pattern doesn’t specify when to change colors; feel free to change colors whenever you choose.
Cushion
Using A, CO 3 sts. Begin I-Cord as follows: *Transfer needle with sts to left hand, bring yarn around behind work to right-hand side; using second dpn, knit sts from right to left, pulling yarn from left to right for the first st; do not turn. Slide sts to opposite end of needle; repeat from * twice.
Begin Spiral
Rows 1-3: Slide sts to opposite end of needle, k2, slip 1 knitwise, pick up and knit 1 st in row below sts on needle, psso.
Row 4: Repeat Row 1, picking up in CO edge.
Note: This last pick-up may be tight.
Spiral Step 1
Slide sts to opposite end of needle, place removable marker through front leg of first st on needle.
Rows 1 and 2: K3; slide sts to opposite end of needle.
Row 3: K2, slip 1 knitwise, pick up and knit 1 st in row below last picked-up st, psso; slide sts to opposite end of needle.
Repeat Rows 1-3 until you come to marker.
Work Step 1 once more.
Spiral Step 2
Slide sts to opposite end of needle, remove marker and place it through front leg of first st on needle.
Rows 1, 3, and 4: K3; slide sts to opposite end of needle.
Rows 2 and 5: K2, slip 1 knitwise, pick up and knit 1 st in second row below last picked-up st, psso; slide sts to opposite end of needle.
Repeat Rows 1-5 until you come to marker.
Work Step 2 three more times.
Spiral Step 3
Slide sts to opposite end of needle, remove marker and place it through front leg of first st on needle.
Rows 1, 2, and 4-6: K3; slide sts to opposite end of needle.
Rows 3 and 7: K2, slip 1 knitwise, pick up and knit 1 st in third row below last picked-up st, psso; slide sts to opposite end of needle.
Repeat Rows 1-7 until you come to marker.
Work Step 3 three more times. Note: Work Step 3 fewer times if your chair seat is smaller than 16" diameter.
Next Row: K2tog, k1, pass first st over–1 st remains. Fasten off. Using tail, sew BO end to nearest point of Spiral.
Shown top to bottom: Olive Leaf and Hollyhock
This is such an easy sweater to make, even a new knitter can take it on. I’ve included sizes from newborn to 9 months, but keep in mind that the larger sizes will take you longer to knit.
SIZES
0-3 (3-6, 6-9) months
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
18 ½ (19 ½, 20 ½)" chest
YARN
The Fibre Company Terra (40% merino wool / 40% baby alpaca / 20% silk; 100 yards / 50 grams): 3 hanks Hollyhock or Olive Leaf
NEEDLES
One 24" (60 cm) long circular (circ) needle size US 8 (5 mm)
Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
NOTIONS
Four stitch markers; four ½" buttons
GAUGE
16 sts and 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in Stockinette stitch (St st)
STITCH PATTERN
Seed Stitch (multiple of 2 sts + 1)
All Rows: K1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
NOTES
The Cardigan is worked flat, but you need the length and flexibility of the circular needle to work the pattern. The Cardigan is worked in one piece from the bottom edge of the Back, over the Sleeves and shoulders, down to the bottom edge of the Fronts.
When starting a new ball of yarn, start it on the Stockinette stitch portion of the work rather than in the edge stitches; this will make weaving in the ends invisibly easier.
The pattern has two options for working the edge trim: Seed stitch as shown on the Hollyhock version or Garter stitch as shown on the Olive Leaf version. When instructions tell you to “work in trim st" over a specified length, number of rows, or number of stitches, work your preference of Seed stitch or Garter stitch (knit every row).
Back
CO 37 (39, 41) sts, leaving a 30" long tail for finishing. Begin trim st of your choice (Seed st or Garter st [knit every row]); work even for 1", ending with a WS row. Change to St st; work even until piece measures 5 (5 ½, 6)" from the beginning, ending with a WS row.
Sleeves
Next Row (RS): Using Cable CO (see page 131), CO 20 (21, 22) sts at beginning of next row; working across CO sts, work in trim st for 11 sts, pm (place marker), knit to end–57 (60, 63) sts.
Next Row: CO 20 (21, 22) sts, work in trim st for 11 sts, pm, purl to next marker, work in trim st to end–77 (81, 85) sts.
Next Row: Work in trim st to first marker, work in St st to next marker, work in trim st to end.
Work even for 2 ¼ (2 ½, 2 ¾)" if you are working Seed st trim, or for 1 ¾ (2, 2 ¼)" if you are working Garter st trim, ending with a WS row.
Shape Back Neck
Row 1 (RS): Work trim st to first marker, k14 (16, 18), pm, work in trim st over next 27 sts, pm, knit to next marker, work trim st to end.
Row 2: Work trim st to first marker, purl to next marker, work trim st to next marker, purl to last marker, work trim st to end.
Work even for 4 rows if you are working Seed st trim, or 6 rows if you are working Garter st trim.
Next Row (RS): Work to second marker, work 5 sts, BO next 17 sts for Back neck in st pattern, work to end–30 (32, 34) sts remain each side for shoulders and Sleeves.
Left Front
Working only on Left Front and Sleeve sts, and leaving remaining sts on needle, work even for 5 rows if you are working Seed st trim, or 7 rows if you are working Garter st trim.
Shape Front Neck
Row 1 (RS): Work to first marker, k1-f/b, work to end–31 (33, 35) sts.
Row 2: Work to 1 st before second marker, k1-f/b, work to end–32 (34, 36) sts.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five times, working increased sts in St st as they become available–42 (44, 46) sts.
Work even until piece measures 6 ½ (7, 7½)" from beginning of Sleeve, ending with a RS row.
Finish Sleeves
Next Row (WS): BO 20 (21, 22) sts in pattern, work to end–22 (23, 24) sts remain. Work even for 4 (4 ½, 5)", ending with a WS row.
Next Row (RS): Change to trim st across all sts; work even for 1", ending with a WS row. BO all sts, leaving a 30" long tail for finishing.
Right Front
With WS facing, rejoin yarn to sts on needle. Work even for 5 rows if you are working Seed st trim, or 7 rows if you are working Garter st trim.
Shape Front Neck
Row 1 (RS): Work to 1 st before second marker, k1-f/b, sm, work to end–31 (33, 35) sts.
Row 2: Work to first marker, sm, k1-f/b, work to end–32 (34, 36) sts.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five times, working increased sts in St st as they become available–42 (44, 46) sts.
Work even until piece measures 6 ½ (7, 7½)" from beginning of Sleeve, ending with a WS row.
Next Row (RS): BO 20 (21, 22) sts in pattern, work to end–22 (23, 24) sts remain. Work even for 4 (4 ½, 5)", ending with a WS row.
Next Row (RS): Change to trim st across all sts; work even for 1", ending with a WS row. BO all sts, leaving a 30" long tail for finishing.
Finishing
Block if desired. Using Mattress st (see page 126) and long tails from CO and BO, sew side seams. Sew Sleeve seams. Sew buttons to Left Front for a girl, or to Right Front for a boy, with lowest button centered in edge trim, highest button ½" below end of neck shaping, and remaining 2 evenly spaced between. The buttons can be pushed through sts on the opposite Front, without stretching the sts.
