The old motto “better to be safe than sorry” applies any time you’re dealing with horses and doubly so when you’re heading out on trail and will be far from home. There are many steps you can take to ensure your and your horse’s safety and comfort on the trail.
Regular veterinary and farrier care are inexpensive compared with emergency treatment or replacement of a good horse.
At the very least, a veterinarian should see your trail horse twice a year for vaccinations and a dental checkup. Depending on your area, where you keep your horse, and where you take her, she may need boosters more often. Your veterinarian can help you devise an appropriate vaccination schedule.
Horses generally need their teeth floated, or filed, once a year. If sharp points or other problems develop, your horse won’t be able to chew her food properly, which can cause weight loss and other health issues. Teeth problems can also cause her to misbehave under saddle; she may resent bridling or toss her head when ridden. Keeping up with your horse’s veterinary care will ensure she has a longer, more enjoyable, and useful life.
Horses need to see a farrier every six to eight weeks to have their feet trimmed or new shoes put on. You have three choices when it comes to your horse’s feet, and your farrier can help you determine which is right for your horse.
No. 1: She can go barefoot all the time.
No. 2: She can go barefoot but wear removable hoof boots, similar to tennis shoes for horses, when you ride on rough terrain.
No. 3: She can wear horseshoes on the front feet or all four feet.
Not every horse can go barefoot. Some have especially weak or sensitive feet and will need shoes. Others have soundness or conformation problems that corrective shoeing can help. If you plan to take part in organized or competitive rides, these may require shoes, so do your research. The type of terrain you ride over also may dictate whether your horse can go barefoot. Find a farrier you trust and work with him or her to find the best option for your horse.
If you live in an icy or snowy region and you plan to ride during the winter, discuss the options with your farrier based on your horse’s needs and your winter riding goals. A number of shoeing choices can help your horse gain better traction in icy conditions, including studs (or calks), which are like cleats for your horse, or a material called “borium,” which your farrier can add to your horse’s shoes to improve her traction. Shod horses can wear snow pads to keep snow from balling up in the hooves. Spraying the bottom of a horse’s hooves with cooking oil also can help prevent the snow from sticking and packing in, but that is only a temporary fix.
Never go riding if your horse has a loose shoe. Call the farrier and wait until he or she can come to fix it. The same applies to hooves that are too long, cracking, or otherwise in poor condition. Trail riding can be hard on hooves, so don’t attempt it unless your horse’s hooves have been attended to and are in good condition.
Your tack also needs preventive maintenance. Clean and condition your leather regularly, and wash all nylon, cotton, and synthetic items as needed. Each time you use your tack, inspect it for wear and tear. Replace anything that’s starting to become thin, cracked, or damaged.
Start every ride with a good grooming. Cleaning your horse ensures that nothing is under the tack that could irritate her. In addition, it keeps her skin and coat healthy and is the perfect opportunity for giving her a thorough once-over.
Does your horse have any areas where her skin is scabby, irritated, or losing hair? These could be signs of a skin condition, such as a fungus. When you curry over her back, does she flinch or hollow her back? If so, it could indicate back pain caused by poor saddle fit or other issues. When you groom your horse’s chest and head, bare spots may show the bridle or the breast collar may not fit correctly and may rub. As you brush her legs, do you notice any swellings, lumps, or bumps? These could indicate a minor injury or a more serious condition, especially if the area is hot or sore. If you feel or see something on one leg, compare it with the other leg to determine what is out of the ordinary. Always call your veterinarian, if there’s any problem, he or she will tell you how to proceed.
A thorough grooming also includes picking out each of your horse’s hooves before and after every ride. This will remove manure and mud, which can lead to destructive conditions such as thrush. Picking the hooves will also remove debris that can cause stone bruises and other problems. If you notice a problem with your horse’s hooves or shoes, talk with your farrier.
Flies and mosquitoes can pose a problem from late spring through early fall. After a thorough grooming, spray or wipe on fly repellent until your horse’s coat is slightly damp. You’ll also need to treat your horse’s head and ears with a roll-on fly repellent or liquid repellent applied to a rag. You may want to pack fly-repellent towelettes or a rag soaked in fly spray in a resealable bag for reapplication on long rides. Biting insects are not only irritating but also pose a safety hazard if your horse becomes overly bothered.
A crocheted ear bonnet protects this Tennessee Walking Horse mare from the annoyance and danger of biting insects.
When fly repellents aren’t enough, you may want to add a barrier, such as a crocheted ear bonnet, to keep biting insects out of your horse’s ears and away from her forehead and eyes. There are also mesh fly masks available for riding that do not obstruct a horse’s vision. Don’t forget to protect yourself. Apply insecticide to exposed skin or wear a light, long-sleeved shirt.
Ticks can also be a problem for horses and humans. If you ride in areas where ticks are common, check yourself and your horse when you return from a ride. The best way to remove a tick is with sharp tweezers or a commercial remover. Make sure to pull the tick out by the head so that no piece is left embedded in the skin.
You wouldn’t attempt an all-day hike uphill if your normal exercise routine consisted of walking to the mailbox, right? If you made it at all, you would no doubt feel awful the next day; you might even injure yourself. Just like humans, horses must build condition over time. They are not ATVs that can be taken out for an all-day joyride every once in a while.
Don’t ask your horse to do more than she’s conditioned to do. Some trail riders are “weekend warriors,” taking their horses out for trail rides only on the weekends. If you ride only on the weekends, you’ll need to keep your rides very short and easy, and make sure your horse lives in a pasture or has a daily turnout during the week. Your other option is to find another rider or a horse trainer who can exercise your horse during the week.
Before starting any conditioning program, talk to your veterinarian. He or she can help you decide if your horse is physically up to the tasks you have planned and can offer specific advice for your horse’s needs. Remember, too, that after a long winter off or other lay up, you’ll need to start back to work very slowly. In addition, make sure your horse is a proper weight before you begin a conditioning program. An under-weight horse won’t have the fat stores needed to burn during a workout, and an overweight horse will tire quickly and be more apt to overheat. Your veterinarian can help you determine the best diet for your horse based on her health and workload. The more calories a horse burns, the more calories she must eat, so you may need to adjust her diet as you increase her workload.
Horses need salt and minerals in their diet. Once you and your veterinarian come up with the ideal nutrition plan for your horse, ask about the best way for your horse to get the salt and minerals she needs. Depending on your horse’s exercise routine and her diet, your veterinarian may recommend offering your horse loose salt or a salt block or adding electrolytes to your horse’s diet. Always consult your veterinarian before starting your horse on any nutritional supplement.
The old rule of thumb for humans—exercise at least three days a week—also holds true of horses. Any less, and they won’t be in shape for more than a stroll down the lane. However, like people, most horses will benefit from one or two days off per week to relax and enjoy their pasture or some turnout.
A common-sense approach to fitness works for most trail riders. If you want to take faster, longer, or steeper rides, add speed, length, and hills to your horse’s workouts slowly over several months. However, never add more than one element at a time. For example, add a bit of hill work or some faster work, or make your rides a bit longer, but never all three—or even two—at once. Adding a bit of long trotting is a great way to build a horse’s condition for faster rides; just make sure you do so on appropriate footing (no holes, rocks, or pavement). Long trotting is basically a fast and ground-covering or extended trot. For example, during your rides, you may long trot your horse for five minutes, three to six days a week for a couple of weeks. Then, move it up to 10 minutes. Riding up hills is also a good way to build muscle on your horse or prepare her for steeper rides. Again, start with mild to moderate short inclines for several weeks before adding steeper or longer climbs. Adding 10 or so minutes each week to your rides will improve your horse’s endurance for longer rides.
Watch your horse’s breathing and sweating to note when she’s getting fatigued, but keep in mind that these are also affected by weather. Your horse will sweat more and breathe more heavily on hotter days. Use common sense and put yourself in your horse’s shoes to make logical judgments about her fitness regimen.
To improve your horse’s condition, take her up a steep incline.
If you’re preparing for long-distance competition, such as endurance or competitive trail riding, you’ll need to take a more systematic approach to conditioning. Find an experienced mentor to help you along the way. See the Resources chapter for information on how to contact the endurance and competitive trail associations. These groups will help match you with an experienced mentor. This person, along with your veterinarian, can help you plan your conditioning program. You will need to begin your horse’s fitness program a year or so in advance of your first long-distance ride.
Before you begin to seriously condition your horse for long-distance riding, you’ll need to invest in an equine heart-rate monitor or learn to check her heart rate (pulse) by hand. This will help you determine how much your horse can handle during each phase of her conditioning. An average horse’s resting heart rate is 30 to 42 beats per minute. In general, the quicker your horse’s heart rate returns to normal (at rest) after exertion, the better shape she’s in. In addition to checking your horse’s heart after exertion, a heart-rate monitor allows you to monitor her heart rate during a workout to determine when she is in her target zone; when she can be pushed farther, faster, or longer; and when you should back off.
Monitoring your horse’s heart rate will give you a much more accurate measurement of her fitness and exertion, but keep in mind that even dismounting to take her pulse will allow enough time for her heart rate to drop slightly.
Don’t overlook your own fitness. An unfit rider becomes merely a passenger—dead weight—rather than a partner, making the horse’s job much more difficult. Fit riders can easily post the trot for long distances and can take their weight out of the saddle for hill work, in addition to maintaining proper form throughout a ride. Aerobic exercise such as running, biking, brisk walking, and swimming will improve your stamina. Strength training, including weight lifting and resistance exercises such as lunges and squats will improve your muscle tone and strength. Stretching, Pilates, and yoga promote flexibility. Virtually any exercise that increases your fitness can make you a better, more capable, and more comfortable rider. Fitness also helps you avoid aches, pains, and injuries such as muscle and tendon pulls. You and your horse will appreciate your fitness on long rides!
There are certain essentials some trail riders overlook. Even if you ride for only an hour or two at a time, purchase at least a small saddle horn or cantle bag to carry a few supplies in.
Never leave the following items at home:
Cell phone: Place it in a holder on your belt, leg, or arm or in a fanny pack. Avoid storing it in your saddlebag in case you and your horse are separated by a fall or other accident. Program in phone numbers for your family and your veterinarian.
Identification: Place your name and an emergency contact number somewhere on yourself and your horse in case the you become separated. You can get a dog tag made and attach it to your saddlebags or your horse’s tack. For yourself, always carry at least a piece of paper with your name, address, phone number, an emergency contact, and your veterinarian’s number. Store it in your pocket. In the unlikely event you’re knocked unconscious, someone will be able to identify you and call for help. If you have any medical conditions, such as diabetes, wear a medical bracelet or include this information on the piece of paper.
First-aid kit for your horse: You may also choose to include a first-aid kit for yourself, but many of the items in your horse’s first-aid kit could be used on a human, and you can throw in a few adhesive bandages for good measure. A basic horse first-aid kit should include at least: small scissors, gauze, self-adhesive vet tape, nonstick pads or wrap, antiseptic or antibiotic solution, and a thermometer.
Hoof boot: If your horse is shod, pack a hoof boot in case she loses a shoe in the middle of a ride. Several companies make them; think of them as a “spare tire” for your horse. You’ll need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure you buy a boot that will fit your horse properly. Should she lose a shoe on trail, put the hoof boot on, then head back to the barn and call the farrier for an appointment.
Halter and lead rope: If your horse isn’t wearing a combination halter/bridle, always bring a halter and lead rope. Many people have their horses wear the halter and lead rope, running the lead rope loosely along one side of the horse’s neck and looping it over the horn. Just make sure you do not tie the lead rope around the horn, as it could get caught on a passing branch or object. Remember that you should never tie your horse with her bridle, so a halter and lead rope can come in handy.
Pocket knife: This can be useful for a number of applications. Cutting your horse free if she accidentally gets caught or tangled on something, or making a makeshift notch or hole in your tack in an emergency are two examples.
Hoof pick: Bring one in case something gets lodged in your horse’s hoof. Foldable hoof picks are small and easy to pack.
Here are many of the essential items a well-prepared rider needs for a day on the trail.
Compass or GPS and map: If you’re riding in an unfamiliar area or you plan to blaze some new trails, pack a compass or a GPS. State and national parks usually have trail maps; take a map of the area where you’re riding when available.
Twine and duct tape: These can be handy for any number of uses, including broken tack.
Water bottle and collapsible bucket: Take a water bottle for yourself. If water faucets are available, also pack a collapsible bucket for your horse.
Food: Depending on how long you’re going to be out, bring food. If it’s a short ride, take a snack, such as an energy bar.
Sunscreen and insect repellent: Be sure to use these beforehand, but take them along as well in case you need to reapply.
Additional items to consider: You may want to take water purification tablets, a whistle, a flash-light, a survival blanket (small, emergency blanket), and an EpiPen if you’re allergic to insect stings. If you need to tie your horse, pack a tree saver, which will protect the tree from rope rubs.
Of course, daylong rides require additional supplies, such as meals and extra water. These items are easily accommodated in large saddlebags, and insulated bags can help keep items cool or hot. If you pack food, don’t get carried away with heavy items such as ice packs. Instead, freeze a bottle of water, which you can drink after lunch.
Pack your saddlebags so there’s an even amount of weight on each side, and take into consideration your weight, the weight of your tack, and the weight of your saddlebags and gear when deciding if a load is too much for your horse.
In addition to packing carefully, always tell someone where you plan to ride and how long you’ll be gone. This holds true whether you’re riding alone or with others.
There are a number of potential safety hazards on trail. Although rare, attacks by people and animals happen. Beware of stinging insects, poisonous plants and snakes, and bad weather. You must take proper precautions for riding in hot and cold temperatures. It’s important to be able to recognize signs of stress in your horse and know what to do.
When trail riding, you must prepare for natural hazards, including plants and wildlife. Learn what poisonous plants are in your area and watch for them on trail. Then make sure your horse doesn’t grab a mouthful, and don’t tie her or let her graze near these plants. To be completely safe, don’t let your horse graze on trail. If you do and your horse isn’t used to eating fresh grass, don’t let her graze for more than a half hour.
Learn about any poisonous snakes that might populate the areas where you ride. Splint boots or sport boots can help protect a horse’s legs from bearing the full brunt of a snake bite; also ask your veterinarian about any other protective measures you can take if your horse is bitten. For the most part, snakes are shy, so staying on the lookout for them and giving them a wide berth can be the best preventive measure.
Bees, wasps, and hornets are more likely to attack, especially if you accidentally disrupt a nest or hive in the ground or in a tree. Stay calm and walk slowly out of the area. However, if you disrupt an entire nest or hive and have a whole swarm bent on attacking you, exit the area quickly, running if it’s safe to do so. When you’ve left their territory, try to carefully remove any stingers left by bees. If your horse has many stings, she may break out in hives. If she’s been stung multiple times, call the veterinarian and head slowly back to the barn.
If you’re riding alone, trust your instincts and don’t think you’re immune from danger because you’re on a horse. For a human assailant to attack on trail, he or she will need to get close to your horse, so remember that it’s OK to tell someone they can’t pet your horse or to move away quickly if you’re feeling threatened. If someone grabs you or your reins, turn your horse in a circle away from your attacker so your horse’s hind end moves toward the perpetrator; then trot, canter, or gallop away.
Dogs often bark at horses and frighten them. If you encounter a dog off leash and the owner is nearby, ask the owner to hold the dog or put it on a leash. Even if the dog isn’t going to bite, your horse may kick the dog if it runs behind the horse or under her legs. When no owners are in sight and a dog is approaching you aggressively, don’t try to run. In most cases, this will just incite the dog to chase your horse. Yelling at the dog in an angry, loud voice often will do the trick. Turning your horse to face the dog and taking a step or two toward it also may be effective; this shows the dog you’re not prey and are much larger. If you ride an area where you repeatedly run into loose, aggressive dogs, report them to local authorities.
If you like to ride with your own dog, make sure that it’s under voice control and that where you plan to ride allows off-leash dogs. Ensure your horse is used to the dog running around nearby while you ride. Riding along streets or across private property with a loose dog is never a good idea.
If you ride in bear country, check park reports on local bear activity and consider canceling your ride if bears have been active in the area. Any time you ride in bear country, consider attaching a trail bell to your horse’s breast collar. In addition, try to talk or otherwise make noise as you ride down trails and, whenever possible, ride in a group. By making noise as you head down the trail, you’ll avoid surprising a bear. If you see a bear cub, leave the area, as mama is not far off. If you encounter an adult bear, don’t make direct eye contact or approach the bear. Instead, stay calm and slowly exit the area. Do not appear threatening, or you may aggravate the bear. Grizzlies and black bears have somewhat different behaviors, so familiarize yourself with the habits of the bears in your area. You can carry bear spray as an emergency defense, but keep it handy and remember that it’s effective only at close range.
Mountain lions are another large predator that may share your trails, especially in the West. However, mountain lions are not known to attack horseback riders. If you do come face to face with a mountain lion, look big. Yell at it, move your arms, and throw things (if available) if it tries to approach. Don’t run, as this may incite it to chase you. Your superior size when mounted, paired with your seeming lack of fear, could send the mountain lion on its way!
If you ride at night, stay away from traffic, and ride only on trails you’re familiar with. Night riding is not the time to explore unfamiliar terrain, as your horse is more likely to stumble, and you’re more likely to get lost. If you take a flashlight or glow sticks, get your horse used to these things at night at home before you hit the trail. If you’ll be riding anywhere near cars or other vehicles, wear reflective gear.
Footing can be another natural hazard, day or night. Any time the footing seems slippery or otherwise dangerous, consider dismounting and leading your horse. Watch out for hard or extremely deep footing, and don’t travel faster than a walk through these areas to avoid stressing your horse’s legs or hooves.
Whenever you ride, always check the weather forecast. If there are flash flood warnings or thunder and lightning are predicted, don’t ride.
Many people enjoy riding in the snow; however, avoid ice. Keep in mind that ice forms quickest and lingers longest in the shade and on bridges. Remember, too, that deep snow is difficult for a horse to walk through. Choose your footing and trails carefully, and stick to terrain you’re familiar with. Make sure your horse has adequate traction, keep the ride within her fitness level, and remember that it may take a good deal of time to cool her down and dry her off afterward. For this reason, some people choose to body clip or partially body clip their horses for cold weather riding. If you choose to clip, you will have to provide your horse adequate blankets and shelter to replace her natural protection.
During a heat spell, avoid riding in the middle of the day. Mornings and evenings are usually cooler. You may need to slow your pace and take shorter rides. Especially avoid high heat combined with high humidity. To determine if it’s too hot to ride, add the outside temperature to the relative humidity. If the number is less than 130, it’s usually OK to ride. However, heavily muscled or overweight horses will have a more difficult time staying cool.
Hot weather can cause heat exhaustion or heatstroke and dehydration in horses, just as it does in people. If you suspect your horse is becoming dehydrated, pinch the skin on her neck. It should immediately return to its normal position. If the skin you pinched stays “tented” for a moment or very slowly goes back to normal, your horse is becoming or is already dehydrated. Another test is pulling up her upper lip and pressing the gums above her top front teeth with your thumb. This will push the pink pigment out. The color should return to normal within two seconds. If not, this is another indicator she’s dehydrated. Stop working her and offer her water.
Move an overheated horse to the shade. Contrary to old wives’ tales, cold water applied to a hot horse is actually a good thing. Hose down or bucket off your horse, pushing the water away with a sweat scraper so that fresh, cold water is constantly being applied to her skin. Signs of actual heatstroke include a body temperature above 105 degrees Fahrenheit, rapid breathing and pulse, weakness or depression, and refusal to eat or work. In severe cases of heatstroke, horses can collapse or go into convulsions. If you suspect your horse is suffering from heat exhaustion, heatstroke, or dehydration, call your veterinarian immediately.
A horse that’s not overheated or dehydrated but just generally tired from the day’s work should also be rested. When a horse is genuinely worn out and pushed beyond her fitness level, she will be more likely to stumble or injure herself and will be at risk for a number of health problems. Signs of a tired horse may include stopping, stumbling, slowing down, lowering the head, sweating, or breathing heavily. Head back to the barn slowly, stopping to rest as needed.
Just as you pack your water bottle for a trail ride, you’ll need to consider your horse’s water needs. If you’re going out for only a couple of hours, water is not a huge concern, but you must plan ahead on longer rides.
You’ll want to teach your horse to drink from streams and other bodies of water, but not all horses will do so readily. In fact, some horses don’t like to drink unfamiliar water at all. The best way to encourage your horse to drink from streams is to ride with another horse that’s comfortable crossing water and drinking from natural water sources. Every time you reach a natural water source, let the horses stop by the water’s edge and rest. Place your horse close enough to her friend so that she feels relaxed but not so close that either feels crowded. Let her smell the water, put her foot in if she wants, and watch her friend. With enough repetition, if your horse is thirsty, she’ll most likely give natural water sources a try.
On hot days, hose down your horse to cool her off and remove sweat, which dries the skin.
If natural water sources are not available or your horse refuses to drink from them, you can carry a collapsible water bucket for your horse. These are available from several manufacturers and are light and easily packable. Rinse it out thoroughly with your home water to get out any “new” or chemical smells. Introduce your horse to the bucket at home. You may even want to fill it with water and set or attach it near her normal water bucket so she’s familiar with it and associates it with drinking. Then, when you’re on trail, you can fill it at any available water sources. State and national parks often have water fountains or spigots you can use.
If you ride on designated horse trails, there may be water troughs on trail or at trailheads. It’s best to use your collapsible water bucket by filling it from the spigot rather than letting your horse drink out of the communal trough. You don’t want your horse catching a virus that was passed along from another horse that recently drank there.
Whatever the water source—streams, fountains, or spigots—offer your horse water at every opportunity. She’ll need more water on hot days, just as you will.
If you’re out on trail and your horse begins to limp, tie up, colic, or otherwise act unwell, follow these steps to evaluate the situation:
Lame: First, check her feet to make sure there is nothing lodged in a hoof. If she’s non-weight-bearing lame, call for help; otherwise, hand-walk her back to the stable and call your veterinarian for a consultation.
Tying up: A horse that is tying up may demonstrate muscle stiffness, including a short stride, an elevated pulse or respiration (or both), sweating, and other signs of severe discomfort. If your horse is tying up, you’ll need to call for help, as this horse should not be forced to walk. Your veterinarian will help you treat a current episode of tying up and offer diet and exercise tips to prevent future attacks.
Colic: Colic is a general term that means there’s pain somewhere in your horse’s abdomen. A colicky horse will often bite or kick at her stomach, stretch her front and hind legs out, or try to roll. Dismount and begin walking your horse toward the stable. If her condition doesn’t rapidly improve, call your veterinarian en route so he or she can meet you at the stable as soon as possible.
Anytime your horse is lame or you notice a change in demeanor, check her vital signs, including heart rate, respiration, and temperature. Every horse owner should learn how to take a horse’s vitals and memorize the averages for each. Your first-aid kit should have a horse rectal thermometer for taking your horse’s temperature wherever you go. However, keep in mind that your horse’s vitals are affected by exercise. Her heart rate, respiration, and temperature will rise when she exerts herself. Practice taking her vitals while you’re out on trail so you know what is “normal” in different weather conditions and at different exertion levels. You can keep a reference sheet in your first-aid kit. If your horse is not acting quite right on trail and her vitals are out of range, something could be wrong. Here’s instructions on how to check your horse’s vitals:
Heart rate or pulse: A horse’s average resting pulse rate is 30 to 42 beats per minute. Take the horse’s pulse manually in several different locations: the left underside of her lower jaw, the inside back of her knee, or at the artery just below her fetlock. These large arteries may take a moment to locate. Once you find one, press your index and middle fingers gently against it until you can feel your horse’s pulse, then count how many beats you feel during a 15-second period. Multiply that number by four. You also may listen with a stethoscope behind your horse’s left elbow in front of where your girth or cinch would go; you also may be able to feel it. Count each lub-dub of the heart as one beat. Again, time yourself for 15 seconds, then multiply the number of beats you counted by four.
Respiration: A horse’s average respiratory rate is 12 to 20 breaths per minute. To check your horse’s respiration, watch her nostrils or put your hand in front of one to feel the air coming out. You also can watch her flank. Count each inhale and exhale as one breath. If you have a stethoscope, listen after placing it on your horse’s windpipe.
Temperature: A horse’s average temperature is 99.5 to 101.5 degrees Fahrenheit. To take your horse’s temperature, you’ll need a traditional horse thermometer with the mercury shaken down or a digital horse thermometer. Either should have a string and clip attached so the thermometer can’t get lost inside or outside the horse. A horse’s temperature is taken rectally; before inserting, lubricate the end of the thermometer with petroleum jelly, K-Y jelly, or even saliva in a pinch. Read the thermometer’s instructions for how far to put it in and how long to leave it in. Traditional thermometers are usually left in for three minutes, and digital ones often can be read in one minute.
If you prefer for someone to show you how to take your horse’s vitals, ask your veterinarian. Most are happy to help and offer suggestions on when to call them. However, anytime your horse’s vitals are out of the normal range, it’s best to call the veterinarian for further instructions.
On a trail in Oro, Ontario, horse and rider proceed at a leisurely pace. Always walk on the way home.
Program in your cell phone a contact person with a truck and a trailer, so you’ll be prepared if an emergency happens. If a road is accessible near the trail you’re on, it may be advisable to trailer your horse home or to the veterinary hospital.
Always walk your horse when headed back to the barn. This accomplishes two things. One, it doesn’t allow your horse to rush home. Horses naturally speed up on the way home because they know they’ll be fed, rested, and safe there. Don’t make this habit worse by jogging or loping toward home. Two, walking home cools your horse out. It allows her heart rate and temperature to begin to return to normal. If your horse is still sweating or breathing heavily when you get back to the barn, dismount, loosen her cinch, and hand-walk her until she’s back to normal. If your horse is wet from rain, towel her off. When it’s cold outside, you’ll want to cover your horse with a cooler until she dries off.
If it’s a warm day, you can hose your horse down after a ride, starting at her legs to let her get used to the water temperature before running it over her sensitive back; or you can get a bucket of water and sponge her sweaty areas. In cold weather, if you don’t have access to hot water, towel off your horse, put on the cooler until she’s dry, then brush her. It’s important to remove the sweat because sweat contains salt, which will dry out your horse’s coat and make her itchy. Always check your horse’s feet before you put her away to make sure she didn’t pick up any rocks or debris on trail.
While preparation and safety considerations can seem overwhelming, with a little thought and practice, you’ll be in a routine in no time, and you and your horse will both be better off for it.
