All trail horses act up in one way or another and for a variety of reasons. However, not all behavior problems are created equal. Some have hidden causes that take detective work to uncover; others are only minor annoyances.
The worst behavior problems are downright dangerous and must be properly addressed to avoid injury. Read on to learn about common causes for acting out and solutions for the most common bad habits trail riders face.
Before trying to “fix” your horse’s behavioral problem, investigate why she’s acting up. Horses don’t misbehave just to make you mad or to scare you.
Listed here are a few possible causes for behavior problems. Keep in mind that a horse may be influenced by more than one of these at any given time.
Pain: Because horses can’t tell us verbally when and where they hurt, they often show their pain through behavior. For example, if your horse flinches when you curry one shoulder but not the other, she’s probably telling you her shoulder hurts. If she hollows her back when you curry it or when you place the saddle on her, this probably indicates back pain. Limping signifies a problem in her hoof, leg, hip, or shoulder.
Other problems can be more subtle. Ulcers, for example, can manifest in a horse that’s less willing to work or is generally grumpier. If your horse’s behavior suddenly or inexplicably changes, pain may be the cause.
Severe or chronic problems will require a veterinarian’s visit right away, but utilize your routine appointments—for shots, teeth floating, and such—to ask your veterinarian about your concerns. Even if you think it’s a stupid question, ask. It’s better to investigate any suspicions.
Ill-fitting equipment: Surprisingly, poor saddle fit can cause a whole host of behavioral problems, from bucking, bolting, and rearing to apprehension about moving out or going forward. A poor-fitting or incorrectly adjusted bit can cause a horse to avoid pressure from the bit, either by raising her head too high, lowering it too much, or tossing it. See Chapter 2 for more information on choosing the right tack and adjusting it correctly.
Inadequate training: A horse without a solid foundation of basic training will not understand how to respond to the rider’s aids—hands, legs, seat, weight, and voice. This horse may toss her head or put her head up when you apply pressure to the bit rather than lowering her head and giving in to the bit, as most horses are trained to do. She may misinterpret or ignore your aids, running through or around them. If you suspect this is the problem, find a reputable trainer or instructor who can work with your horse or, preferably, with you and your horse together. (Chapter 1 offers guidelines for finding the right instructor.)
Rider error: Just as the untrained horse can misinterpret aids, the inexperienced rider can give faulty aids. For example, if you don’t have a lot of riding experience, you’ll probably bounce at the jog, trot, lope, or canter. Your legs may jiggle against the horse’s sides unintentionally, or your hands may wiggle around, pulling the reins. In addition, you may not know how to use your weight or seat correctly, or you may pull your reins out too far, up too high, or back too sharply. These mixed signals can irritate a horse, cause her to go too fast or too slow, or make her “dead” in the mouth and sides (meaning she ignores the rider’s constant jabbing and pulling). If you can’t deliver clear, consistent, purposeful cues to your horse, sign up for riding lessons in an arena. No one is born knowing how to ride, and even natural riders need practice and guidance.
Bad habits: Many bad habits are a result of rider error. You may have purchased a horse that has an ingrained bad habit or she may have developed one with you if you weren’t trained or confident enough to stop the horse from grabbing grass along the trail or from running home. Soon, the horse has decided these things are part of trail riding. Bad habits, as we all know, can be difficult to break. You can retrain her, but it will take patience and a certain level of skill. If your horse’s behavior is beyond your capabilities, you’ll need to hire a trainer to work with her or a riding instructor who can work with you and your horse. See Chapter 1 for tips on choosing a trainer or riding instructor.
A rider handles her misbehaving mount. If your horse has regular problems, find help.
Insecurity or lack of trust: To follow your cues willingly, your horse must respect you as the herd leader and trust your judgment. A horse that thinks she’s in charge or believes you may lead her into unsafe situations will often disobey. The best way to establish yourself as a herd leader and gain your horse’s trust is to be a confident, consistent leader. Always cue your horse with the same clear aids, and don’t let her get away with certain behavior one day but not another. Keep your emotions in check, and never lead your horse into an unsafe situation or one beyond her capabilities or yours.
Remember that, anytime you work with your horse, you’re working on your relationship. If you let your horse crowd you on the lead line or in her corral, you’re teaching her she’s the leader. Use every opportunity—from grooming to riding—to reinforce your leadership role.
Wrong horse: Of course, even the most confident and capable rider can’t make an extremely high-strung horse a relaxed and trustworthy trail partner. Certain horses just don’t have the temperaments to make safe or enjoyable trail mounts. Refer to Chapter 1 for more information on evaluating a trail horse before you buy her.
Excess energy: Even the best horses can act out if they have been locked up without exercise or stimulation for days on end. A frisky horse may buck, bolt, jig, or spook more easily than normal. Remember that your trail horse is an athlete. She’s being asked to carry a rider over varied terrain, including hard surfaces and hills. Don’t leave your horse locked in a stall or corral for days and then expect her to perform calmly and without injury to herself or you! Make sure she gets exercised several times a week. If she lives in a small pen or stall, turn her out in a paddock or pasture daily for some free time. Horses are social creatures, so turn her out with or near friends. Having other horses in adjoining pens will usually make for a happier horse.
Diet: You have no doubt heard the saying “you are what you eat,” and to a certain extent that’s true. A horse that’s not getting the nutrition she needs may be stubborn or lazy, and a pleasure horse on a high-energy diet may have excess energy, causing her to buck, bolt, or shy. An average trail horse without health problems will likely get all the nutrition and calories she needs from high-quality forage, including hay and grass. Grain is often unnecessary. Have your hay or pasture professionally analyzed by a lab to learn exactly what nutrients may be lacking, then work with your veterinarian to come up with the optimal diet for your horse’s needs.
Weather: Even the weather can affect a horse’s behavior. Windy days are notorious for causing horses to be extra frisky or spooky because wind causes tree branches and debris to blow around.
There are a number of reasons horses act up. Don’t assume your horse is just being naughty or that it’s purely a training issue. Investigate each of these possibilities to determine the best course of action to correct any behavior problem, and remember that more than one of the issues listed above may be influencing your horse’s actions.
Once you get to know your horse, it’s often possible to tell when she’s about to act out. You will begin to spot the body language that indicates she’s going to spook, buck, or bolt. Her neck may stiffen as her head pops up and her ears dart forward. Perhaps she resists your leg, and her entire body becomes straight as a board. Every horse is different, so learn to recognize your horse’s individual signs of trouble. If you can do this, you can ride proactively to prevent a bad behavior.
The minute you notice your horse’s warning signs, focus her attention on you to diffuse the situation. There are several ways to do this. You can try asking your horse to bend in a tight circle, to move her shoulder over toward one direction or the other, or to bend her head around in one direction and come to a stop. What works for one horse may not work for another, so experiment until you find the best preventive action.
Remember that how you feel will influence your horse’s behavior. If you’re tense or afraid, your horse will pick up on this. Breathe deeply when your horse gets upset, sit up tall, and decide on a course of action so you can act confidently and purposefully as the leader. If you do not feel confident handling your horse’s behavior, or if the bad behavior has become chronic, seek help from an experienced trainer or riding instructor. (Chapter 1 has suggestions for finding a good trainer.)
Any of the following problem behaviors can cause a fall. If you fall, always assess your health first. Call out for help from fellow riders or on your cell phone if you’re injured. Deal with catching your horse next. The first rule is never to chase a horse on foot or on horseback. Approach your horse slowly. Speak sweetly and carry a handful of grass or another treat if available. If you have friends with you, your horse most likely won’t stray far from the other horses. However, if she eludes you and bolts for home, begin retracing your steps. There is a good chance you will find her safe along the way. Once she’s caught, never punish her, or she’ll be all the more difficult to catch next time.
Although any misbehavior can have more serious consequences, the following behaviors could be classified as annoying rather than dangerous. Still, they’re enough to ruin a good ride and may indicate larger problems; so investigate possible causes thoroughly, and then take a patient and systematic approach to addressing your horse’s behavior. Remember that horses, like children, will respond best to consistency. If you allow your horse to grab grass some days and not others, for example, she will not learn that grass grabbing is against the rules. As discussed earlier (this cannot be overemphasized), if you’re not making headway in your retraining program, seek help from an experienced trainer or riding instructor.
Barn-sour horses either don’t want to leave home or they want to head home too quickly. If you’re trying to ride alone, this may exhibit herd-bound behavior—your horse simply doesn’t want to leave her friends.
A horse that doesn’t want to leave the barn may need to learn it is more work to resist than to comply. For example, as you leave the barn and your horse stops or tries to turn around, put her to work. Ask her to perform several tight turns, first in one direction and then in another. Or ask her to do a turn on the haunches, where her hind end stays still and her front legs cross over each other and move to the left or right. A turn on the forehand is another maneuver: In this one, the front end stays relatively still, and the hind legs move around. Any request you can make that focuses your horse’s attention on you and makes her apply herself may help. Then ask her to move forward again. If she complies, pat and praise her. Put her back to work whenever she resists. (See Chapter 6 for more tips.)
This experienced equestrian pulls her horse into a tight circle to head off undesirable behavior.
The same theory applies to horses that hurry home: Make them work. Every time your horse starts to speed up when you didn’t request it, sit deeply in the saddle, apply gentle pressure to the reins, and ask her to slow down to the speed you had previously requested. If she doesn’t comply or continues to speed up, put her to work with turns and maneuvers. It will probably take a great deal of patience and many training sessions before your horse realizes that resistance gets her nowhere. But if you are consistent with your approach, she’ll eventually catch on.
Teach a barn-sour horse that the trail is a positive place to be.
If your horse tries to stay near home, have her perform a focused exercise, such as this turn on the haunches.
Another tactic to help reverse your horse’s thinking is to make the stable area a place of work and the trail ride a relaxing reward. If your horse doesn’t like to leave the barn, work her in an arena or a paddock area with good footing. Make her walk, jog or trot, lope or canter, do circles, do side-passes, back up, and turn on haunches and the forehand. Give her a good workout for her fitness level, then take her on a short, relaxing trail ride. Repeat this for several weeks, and your horse will most likely begin to relish her more leisurely trail rides. For a horse that likes to speed home, try the opposite regimen: Give her a good workout in the ring or paddock as soon as you return from a trail ride. This way, she doesn’t associate returning home with an instant reward of food and rest.
You can also try using food to teach your horse that the trail is a great place to be. You can carry treats, dismounting and feeding them to your horse on the way out from the barn, or you can leave a bucket of grain at the approximate place your horse begins to resist leaving home. Let her eat the grain, ride a bit farther, and then turn around and head back. Slowly, you can move the grain farther and farther from home; eventually you will be able to wean your horse from it. You can use food on the return trip as well, stopping to let your horse graze a bit on the way back to teach her to take her time and relax.
Grass grabbing is a minor problem compared with most, but it can be annoying. To avoid this bad habit, be strict with your horse. As you’re riding along, do not allow your horse to eat because soon she’ll be eating left and right, constantly looking for something to grab and sometimes pulling you forward in her dives for grass. If you choose to let your horse graze when you stop for a break, make sure she understands that it’s your idea. Don’t let her begin to eat until you say so.
If your horse already has a grass-grabbing habit, you can cure it with consistency and patience. Keep a watchful eye on her, then squeeze her with your legs and turn her head in the opposite direction of the food every time she reaches for a mouthful. Turning her head is often easier than pulling back with both hands, which can instigate a tug-of-war that she is likely to win. Asking your horse to trot out with a firm bump from your legs when she tries to grab a mouthful can also distract her and show her that trying to snack on the trail is more trouble than it’s worth.
For a horse that’s a true, hardened grass grabber, you may need to purchase antigrazing reins. This device runs from your saddle along the top of your horse’s neck to her bridle and prevents her from lowering her head enough to graze. However, use this piece of equipment only as a last resort. It’s better to let your horse have full use of her neck to balance on steep hills or over difficult terrain. If you do use an antigrazing strap, make sure it’s adjusted properly and is not too tight.
Horses often toss their heads to evade pressure. Head tossing generally indicates the horse either needs dental work from a veterinarian, a more comfortable bit or headstall, gentler guidance from the rider, or some additional training. It is not a problem that can be solved on trail.
A bit or headstall that pinches or puts pressure in the wrong places can cause a horse to toss her head to avoid the discomfort. If the horse suffers from a dental or oral problem, a bit can exacerbate the problem. A rider who puts constant pressure on the reins; who holds the reins too high, too low, or too far out; or who jerks on the reins can also cause a horse to toss her head. In this case, riding lessons are an easy solution. A horse without proper training, one that has never learned to respond to bit pressure, may also toss her head.
Horses that are in a hurry to get home or are nervous, often “jig,” which is a bumpy cross between a walk and a jog or trot. This usually happens while you try to hold the horse back because she wants to rush forward. With all her energy held in, she begins to bounce up and down in a funny gait that is neither ground covering nor comfortable. As with any behavior problem, there are many ways to approach jigging. Try the different methods to see which approach works best for your horse.
If you’re riding with another horse, your horse may be jigging because she wants to get in front. This can be a good time to play leapfrog, letting your horse lead for a few yards, then switching places for a few yards. You don’t want your horse to think she always gets to lead, but you also need to teach her to follow slowly and patiently.
A horse that constantly tosses her head usually suffers from ill-fitting tack, health issues, or poor training.
If your horse jigs because she’s in a hurry to get back to the barn, periodically stop, dismount, and let her graze for a couple of minutes. As with the barn-sour horse, the idea is to teach your jittery horse to relax and to take her time when heading home.
Putting the jigging horse to work is another option. Asking your horse to perform maneuvers will not only refocus her attention on you but also allows you to release your death grip on the reins without fear of her rushing down the trail. First, ask your jigging horse to give her shoulder or move her shoulder in one direction or the other as she moves down the trail. To do this, tip her head to one side by squeezing your fingers until you can see her eye on that side. The opposite rein will maintain only light contact to keep her from turning in a circle. Then squeeze with your calf at the girth on the same side that your horse’s head is tipped. Her shoulder should move a few inches toward the opposite side. Hold her in this position for several feet down the trail and then release all pressure, maintaining only a very light contact on her mouth. If she starts to jig again, ask her to give her shoulder in the other direction. Continue this pattern as you head down the trail. You can also try asking her to give her hind end by applying your leg pressure a few inches behind the girth on the same side as your squeezing rein.
Another maneuver you can try is the serpentine, which requires your horse to travel down the trail snaking in an S-shape, first bending in a half circle to the left and then in a half circle to the right. If you’re riding alone, you can try turning and walking a few yards in the opposite direction, usually away from home, each time your horse jigs. Stopping and backing your horse a few steps when she jigs may also be effective.
Experiment to find what maneuvers work best for your horse. As with the barn-sour horse, the idea is to refocus her attention on you and show her that it’s more work to jig than it is to walk. Remember that releasing the pressure with your hands and legs is your horse’s reward for walking without jigging. Even if she walks nicely for only a few steps, the release of pressure will help teach her that she will be rewarded when she complies.
When a horse is jigging, refocus her attention.
Behavior problems aren’t fun and can take a lot of work to overcome, but there are many tried-and-true solutions. First, find out whether there’s an underlying cause for your horse’s behavior. Once you’ve addressed health, lifestyle, or basic training issues, you can experiment with the on-trail methods detailed earlier and find what your horse responds to best.
The following behaviors can be dangerous, so seek the services of a trusted trainer unless you’re an experienced rider, especially if you’re confronted with a horse that bolts, bucks, or rears. Although every horse spooks at something sometimes, a horse that spooks often or violently or that places you in danger, may need professional training or may not be suitable for trail riding.
Some horses back up rapidly when they’re afraid, confused, or refusing your cues. Backing up can become dangerous if your horse chooses to do so into a street or down a gully. When your horse backs up of her own accord, first make sure you’re not accidentally telling her to do so. Release all pressure on your reins and legs. If she continues to back up, apply pressure with your legs or give her a firm kick. Use your voice cue for going forward, whether it’s a kiss, a cluck, or saying “walk on.” If none of this works, try turning your horse. Squeeze your fingers and leg on one side—right side for a right bend, left side for a left bend. Pull your hand back toward your hip if you need to, then bump her with your leg to bend her body. Turning your horse will usually stop her from rapidly backing up. Immediately put her to work in a few circles or figures to focus her before moving on.
Bolting horses run away when they’re frightened. Bolting can be extremely frightening and dangerous. If you’re a beginning rider, you should not attempt to solve this problem on your own, especially if your horse has made bolting a habit.
If your horse bolts, you have several choices based on your comfort level. Sometimes, an immediate and strong reaction can scare the horse, making her want to bolt all the more. A confident rider may choose to let the horse gallop a few strides before stopping her or directing her in a circle. Most riders don’t feel comfortable doing this and prefer to turn the horse in a large circle to slow her down or to use a pulley rein, or one-rein stop. Whatever method you choose, remain as calm as possible. Shove your heels down and your legs forward to anchor you in the saddle.
If there’s room to do so, turn your horse in a large circle, making the circle smaller and smaller to slow her down. To use a pulley rein, or one-rein stop, slide one hand down a rein to tighten it. Place the opposite hand on the horn or on the horse’s neck if your saddle doesn’t have a horn. Use this arm to brace against as you pull back toward your hip with the opposite hand. Rather than pulling back with both reins, which the bolting horse may brace against, this pulley-rein technique usually will unlock the horse’s neck and slow her down while providing the rider with added security. If the horse braces against the pull of the rein, use a give and release, pulling back on the rein for a moment and then releasing the pressure before pulling back again.
It’s almost always easier to turn a bolting horse in a circle to slow her down than it is to stop her straight. However, if there’s no room to circle your horse, you’ll have to stop her straight. If you can stay secure without holding on, pull back on both reins with a give and release until your horse slows down. Keep your weight in the stirrups. If you need to hold on with one hand, hold one rein tightly in the hand that’s holding the horn and use a give-and-release cue with the other hand.
Bucking is a dangerous behavior that can easily unseat the rider. If your horse bucks regularly and you have investigated tack, health issues, diet, and lack of exercise as causes, find a professional trainer to help you overcome this issue.
Turning a bolting horse in a circle or using a pulley rein is often more effective than steadily pulling back on both reins.
To buck, a horse must lower her head and shift her weight to her front end, which lightens her hind end enough that she can raise it and kick out. Horses sometimes buck because they’re feeling frisky or playful. They may also buck out of pain or fear. If your horse starts to buck or you suspect she’s thinking about it, pull her head up and shove your heels down and your legs forward. You can also pull your horse into a tight circle, which will stop her bucking and refocus her attention. If you’re going fast when she starts to buck, you may want to use the pulley-rein technique detailed in the bolting section of this chapter. Using a pulley-rein technique to circle your horse will give you the security of one braced hand holding you steady.
Rearing is probably the most dangerous of all because a rearing horse can easily lose her balance and flip over on a rider. If your horse rears, do not try to cure this problem on your own. It is far too risky. Hire a trainer. However, if you’re caught on a rearing horse, you have to ride it out. As the horse goes up, lean forward and grab a handful of mane. Whatever you do, do not pull back on the reins, or you may pull your horse over on top of you. Once she has all four feet back on the ground, dismount as soon as it’s safe.
Reassure your horse when needed, such as while passing a foreign object in the bushes.
Every horse spooks at one time or another. Horses spook in different ways. Some jump to the side, away from whatever is frightening them; others bolt forward. A few horses even buck or rear, and some stiffen their legs with a jolt that won’t throw you but may send your stomach to your knees.
Most horses spook when they’re genuinely frightened. You can usually tell when your horse is scared by her body language. Her eyes will be wide and her nostrils flared, and she may snort or breathe deeply. As we have discussed, never punish a scared horse. It only makes the situation more frightening for her and reinforces her notion that it was bad to begin with.
For a horse that’s genuinely scared of something, you can approach the situation from a number of ways. Experiment and find the best methods for your horse and the particular circumstances. One option is to stop your horse and let her look at whatever is scaring her—be it a trash can, tarp, or fallen tree—patting her reassuringly and gently encouraging her to move forward and check it out.
You can also use an approach and retreat method—riding toward the scary object, then backing a few steps away from it, resting, and then approaching again. Riders may even choose to dismount and walk their horses up to the scary object to show them it’s OK. The benefit of leading your horse is just that: you’ll be the leader, and she’ll be more likely to approach the scary item. The drawback is that you could get stepped on or knocked over. Make sure your horse leads well and remember to watch her comfort level, as discussed in Chapter 4. If your horse is so scared that she will not respond, try to move past the object rather than approaching it.
You may need to make a bit of an arc around the feared item. If you feel comfortable, you can even try pushing your horse into a trot to give her less time to contemplate the object of fear. If you choose to walk or trot past something that’s scaring your horse, keep your eyes on the trail ahead, past the object. This will help direct your horse to where you want to go.
Simply passing the scary object may be easiest for a rare object that you probably won’t see again, but you’ll want to desensitize your horse to something you need to pass regularly.
To ride past something scary, you can also try tipping your horse’s head away from what’s frightening her by squeezing the rein on the opposite side of the object or pulling the rein slightly back toward your hip. Use your leg on the same side as the squeezing rein to keep the horse moving forward. The goal is to get your horse to look away from the scary item without actually moving her entire body away from it. Sometimes circling your horse several times in each direction can also help her refocus on you and away from what’s scaring her.
Experiment to find what works best and what is safest given your particular circumstances. Remember that you are the herd leader. Keep your nerves in check. Take a deep breath and relax. Guide your horse with confidence so she can put her trust in you. If you speak to her, do so in a reassuring and confident voice.