If there’s one thing I’ve learned from cooking in a tiny New York City apartment without great venting, it’s that cooking en papillote is by far the best method for making seafood. Cooking en papillote—in parchment—allows you to essentially steam fish with aromatics and vegetables in their own flavorful juices along with whatever other liquids you choose to use. It’s often thought of as a fussy “diet food” technique when it’s actually a very basic method that yields delicious food and just happens to be healthy. Plus, once it’s done, you’re literally tossing the cooking vessel in the trash, so cleanup is simple. Here, a few guidelines.
Pick Your Wrapper
Parchment paper is coated to prevent sticking, which is ideal for delicate fish fillets. In a pinch, aluminum foil works well, too. You should use a larger-than-you-think sheet of parchment (I prefer ones that are 15 inches in length for an individual packet) because once you start layering your ingredients, it’s easier to cut off any excess than to transfer everything to a new sheet if it’s not big enough. Plus, you want enough paper to fold over the ingredients so that there’s just enough room for the steam to rise.
Choose Your Ingredients
Less is more when cooking en papillote: The more you squeeze into your parcel, the harder it is to wrap up. Start by choosing your fish and then pair it with ingredients that complement its flavor. If you choose a fattier fish, like salmon, choose more acidic ingredients (tomatoes, citrus) for balance. Likewise, lean fish, like sea bass, pairs well with ingredients that get juicy when steamed, like zucchini and mushrooms.
Harness the Power of Herbs
Jack up the flavor of your parcels with herbs sprigs, like basil and cilantro. You can easily pick them out at the end when they’re wilted. Alternatively, sprinkle on chopped fresh herbs.
Make an Instant Sauce
Here’s where things get fun! Drizzle on a little wine, soy sauce, or citrus juice. Butter, cream, and nut oils—sesame, walnut, pistachio—lend a luscious quality that’s especially important when using lean fish.
Seal the Deal
Parchment can be a little tricky to use at first, but you’ll get the hang of it. Just arrange sheets on a work surface and pile ingredients on one half. Fold the parchment over the ingredients and then, starting at one end, fold over the edge and crimp to seal. Continue folding over and crimping the edge at 1-inch intervals until you reach the opposite end, then twist the corner to make it airtight.
Hit the (Baking) Sheets
Always bake your parcels on a large rimmed baking sheet. It’s easier to move them about and you prevent any totally avoidable mishaps. Once you get them in a hot oven (I’m talking 425°F), leave them alone for usually around 10 to 15 minutes until they’re super puffy, which generally is your sign that the ingredients are cooked. Snip open the packets with scissors (be careful of the steam) and serve in the parchment, or just slide everything onto a plate.
Think Big
Typically when cooking en papillote, it’s more common to make individual packets—they’re easier to move around and serve. But because I’m the adventurous type, I often make one outrageously oversized packet packed with enough ingredients to serve four. For this method, I use a 3-foot-long sheet of parchment and up the cooking time by about 5 minutes.