Get ready to lay out the pattern by preparing a large work area such as a table topped with a cutting board, or other large flat surface. Assemble all the pattern pieces for the view you are making and press them with a warm, dry iron to remove wrinkles.
Locate the correct layout diagram on the pattern direction sheet. Pattern layouts are reliable guides for laying out the pattern quickly and efficiently. Find the layout for the view, fabric width and pattern size you are using. When working with a napped or other directional fabric (page 77), choose a “with nap” layout. Circle the layout with a colored pen to make sure you refer to the correct layout each time.
Fold the fabric as indicated on the layout. Most fabrics are cut with the right side folded in. This makes it easier to mark and faster to stitch, since some pieces will be in position to sew. Cottons and linens are usually folded right side out on the bolt; wools, wrong side out. The right side of the fabric may appear shinier or flatter, or have a more pronounced weave. Selvages look more finished on the right side. If you cannot tell which is the right side, simply pick the side you like best and consistently use that as the right side. A slight difference in shading that is not apparent as you cut may be noticeable in the finished garment if two different sides are used.
The layout diagram indicates the placement of the selvages and fold. Most garments are cut with the fabric folded along the lengthwise grain. If the fabric is to be cut folded on the crosswise grain, the fold is labeled “crosswise fold” on the layout. The crosswise fold should not be used on napped or other directional fabrics.
Place the pattern pieces on the fabric as indicated in the layout. The symbols and markings used in layout diagrams are standardized for all major pattern companies. A white pattern piece indicates that this piece is to be cut with the printing facing up. A shaded piece should be cut with the printing facing down. A dotted line indicates that a pattern piece should be cut a second time.
When a pattern piece is shown half white and half shaded, it should be cut from folded fabric. Cut the other pieces first and refold the fabric to cut this piece. A pattern piece shown extending beyond the fold is cut from a single layer rather than the usual double layer of fabric. After cutting the other pieces, open the fabric right side up and position this piece by aligning the grainline arrow with the straight grain of the fabric.
After all pattern pieces are in place, pin them to the fabric according to the directions at right. Do not begin cutting until all pattern pieces are in place.