Stretch fabrics for casual or action wear include jersey, stretch terry, stretch velour, and other knits. Stretch woven fabrics include stretch denim, stretch poplin, and stretch corduroy. For swimwear and leotards, Lycra knits are available. Seams in these fabrics must stretch or “give” with the fabric. Some sewing machines have special knit stitches that incorporate stretch.
Test the seam or knit stitch on a scrap of fabric to determine its appropriateness to the weight and stretchiness of the fabric. Some of the special knit stitches are more difficult to rip than straight stitching, so be sure the garment fits before stitching. Because knits do not ravel, they usually do not require seam finishing.
Double-stitched seam gives an insurance row of stitching to a seam. Use this method if your machine does not zigzag.
Straight and zigzag seam combines a straight seam with the stretchiness of zigzag. This is a suitable finish for knits that tend to curl along the raw edges.
Narrow zigzag seam is used for knits that do not curl along edges. It is a fast, easy stretch seam.
Straight stretch stitch is formed by a forward/backward motion of reverseaction machines. It makes a strong, stretchy seam appropriate for stressed areas such as armholes.
Straight with overedge stitch has a special pattern which combines a straight stretch stitch with diagonal stitching. It joins and finishes the seam in one step.
Elastic stretch stitch is an excellent choice for swimwear and leotards. The stitch combines a narrow and wide zigzag pattern.
Taped seams are used in areas where you do not want stretch, such as shoulder seams.