Down the back, up the front, on sleeves, pockets, or pants legs—zippers provide closings on a variety of fashion features. Conventional zippers are most often used. They are closed at one end and sewn into a seam. Invisible, separating, and heavy-duty zippers are available for special uses.
The pattern specifies the type and length zipper to buy. When selecting a zipper, choose a color that closely matches your fabric. Also consider the weight of the zipper in relation to the weight of the fabric. Choose synthetic coil zippers for lightweight fabrics, because these zippers are lighter and more flexible than metal zippers. If you cannot find a zipper of the correct length, buy one that is slightly longer than you need and shorten it using the directions on the page 175.
There are several ways to insert a zipper. The one you choose depends on the type of garment and the location of the zipper in the garment. The following pages contain instructions for the lapped, centered, and fly-front applications for conventional zippers; two methods for inserting separating zippers; and instructions for inserting an invisible zipper. There are variations of each of these applications. Methods shown here are quick and easy, featuring timesaving tools such as fabric glue stick and transparent tape.
Close the zipper and press out the creases before inserting it in the garment. If the zipper has a cotton tape and will be applied in a washable garment, preshrink it in hot water before application. This will prevent the zipper from puckering when the garment is laundered. For best appearance, the final stitching on the outside of the garment should be straight and an even distance from the seamline. Stitch both sides of the zipper from bottom to top, and turn the pull tab up to make it easier to stitch past the slider.
Separating zippers in jackets and vests can be inserted with zipper teeth covered or exposed. A decorative sport zipper with plastic teeth is lightweight yet sturdy for active sportswear.