The most common use for ribbing is to finish the edges of knit sportswear garments. Ribbing, which has great crosswise stretch and recovery, enables garment openings to stretch easily when you are getting dressed and return to a neat, comfortable fit during wear. Ribbing is available as yardage and as prefinished ribbed bands.
The width of ribbing yardage ranges from 28" to 60" (71 to 152.5 cm), or 14" to 30" (35.5 to 76 cm) tubular, and is available in several weights. To use ribbing yardage, cut a crosswise strip of the fabric, fold it in half lengthwise, and apply it so the fold becomes the finished edge.
Prefinished ribbed bands have one finished edge and are applied as a single layer. They are available in various widths and lengths, and in different weights and styles.
Ribbing can be used as an edge finish for several styles of necklines, including turtleneck, mock turtleneck, crewneck, and scoop-neck. It is also used on sleeves, lower edges of T-shirts and sweatshirts, and waistlines of pants and skirts. The cut width and cut length of the ribbing varies, depending on where it will be used and the style you want.
If you use ribbing yardage, the cut width of the ribbing is equal to twice the desired finished width plus ½" (1.3 cm) for seam allowances. If you use prefinished ribbed bands, the cut width is equal to the desired finished width plus one ¼" (6 mm) seam allowance.
Many patterns designed for knits indicate what length to cut the ribbing, or they provide a pattern piece to be used as a guide for the ribbing pieces. The cut length for ribbing can also be determined by measuring the garment opening at the seamline, as shown opposite.
For straight, close-fitting edges, the cut length can be determined by pin-fitting the ribbing on the body. On straight edges that do not require a close fit, such as the lower edge of a skirt, cut the ribbing slightly shorter than the garment edge.
To sew ribbed edges, you may use either the flat or the in-the-round method of construction. Flat construction is the fastest method; however, the seams may be noticeable at the edges of the ribbing. For a better-quality finish, the in-the-round method is usually preferred. With this method, the ribbing seams are enclosed for a neater appearance.
If matching ribbing is not available, self-fabric, cut on the crosswise grain, can be substituted for ribbing yardage. Use a knit fabric that stretches at least 50 percent crosswise; for example, 10" (25.5 cm) of knit must stretch to at least 15" (38 cm).