LA CERVELLE

BRAINS

CALF, LAMB OR PIG BRAINS
can be purchased from some supermarkets or specialty butchers
may need to be ordered ahead of time
soak in vinegared water for 10 minutes

THE BRAIN OF CERTAIN ANIMALS, SERVED AS FOOD

When you think about it, the brain is really the most unlikely part of the animal to consume. These beasts play host to so much pointless thought, hot air, incomprehensible bleating, inaudible grunting, meaningless gestures, faux pas, animality, inappropriate displays and chronic incontinence, that it seems unthinkable to savour the engine room of everything just mentioned. But fear not, there is no risk of contagion, and if, God forbid, you encounter some of the abovementioned symptoms in a member of your party, it’s because they’re an idiot, and nothing can be done for them. Brains are the least profitable offal meat from a nutritional point of view. Apart from vitamin B12 and phosphorus (useful for sparkling), they are in effect very high in cholesterol — being too brainy can make you sick! If buying, calf or lamb brains are recommended; they should be pale in colour and lightly veined, with a pleasant smell. Brains need to soak for a few hours in cold salted water to remove any traces of blood. They can be poached, pan-fried, deep-fried or braised to make a memorable meal.