| The Outer Banks | |
| Northern Banks and Beaches | |
| Roanoke Island | |
| Bodie Island | |
| Hatteras Island | |
| Ocracoke Island | |
| By Artie Sparrow |
I don’t remember my first visit to the Outer Banks. I was too young. However, my parents swear that my response to losing a kite on a Hatteras beach was to say, “That’s okay. It’s going off to Europe.” To me, that symbolizes what the Outer Banks is all about: It’s a place of endless possibilities where you can let your imagination run wild. No matter how young or old you are, when you’re at the Outer Banks, you realize you’re at either the end or the beginning of the world.
I have vivid memories of subsequent trips to the Outer Banks. It’s a place to experience sensory overload in the most positive sense of that term: the sounds, sights, and smells are overwhelming. I once stayed in a hotel that apologized for not having a TV. I didn’t mind because that seemed superfluous, given where I was. You’ll have access to modern conveniences on the Outer Banks: WiFi, cell phone reception, cable TV, etc. But you’ll probably find yourself caring a lot less about those things than you would in other places. Instead, you’ll marvel at what are consistently rated some of the best beaches in America.
The Outer Banks is a place to find long, sandy beaches where you can sit in silence and hear nothing but nature; sand dunes larger than houses, where hang gliders with colorful wings take flight and hover over the waves; wildlife refuges where you can endlessly stroll the trails, soaking up some of the most tranquil and beautiful sights nature has to offer. It also has some of the friendliest people and most delicious restaurant food you’ll ever find, along with a wealth of historical sites.
There is much to see and do on the Outer Banks, and you’ll discover a new adventure with each visit. The Outer Banks can be whatever you want it to be—quiet, wind-swept dunes where you can find blissful solitude or a friendly, outgoing, and active vacation spot.
JUST THE FACTS
The two main roads on the Outer Banks are U.S. 158 and N.C. 12. U.S. 158 is also known as the Croatan Highway. N.C. 12 is also known as the Virginia Dare Trail, Beach Road, and Duck Road. The two parallel one another in the northern section of the Outer Banks. Note that local directions from these roads are customarily given by milepost, rather than by street number. Milepost 1 is in Kitty Hawk and Milepost 16 in Nags Head.
To reach the Banks from the north, follow either U.S. 17 or Va. 168 to U.S. 158. Take U.S. 158 East across the Wright Brothers Memorial Bridge over Currituck Sound. To reach the northern communities of Duck, Sanderling, and Corolla, turn left on N.C. 12. To go south toward Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills, and Nags Head, turn right on either of the two main roads.
From the south, you can take either a land or a water route. Via land, follow U.S. 264 East to U.S. 64 East, which will lead you through Roanoke Island to Bodie Island. For a scenic trip, the ferry system is the way to go. The Swan Quarter ferry and the Cedar Island ferry both deliver travelers to Ocracoke, the southernmost island in the Outer Banks. Either ferry ride takes about two and a half hours. Reservations are required in the summer and are advisable year-round. From Ocracoke, travelers can take a free 40-minute ferry ride to Hatteras Island to gain access to the rest of the Outer Banks. No reservations are required for the Hatteras ferry. For complete information on ferry schedules, fees, and crossing times, call 800-BY-FERRY or visit www.ncferry.org.
From central North Carolina, U.S. 64 leads directly across Roanoke Island to Nags Head. From there, travelers can turn left on either U.S. 158 or N.C. 12 to head up the coast toward Kill Devil Hills and points north or turn right on N.C. 12 to head south toward Hatteras Island.
The Dare County Regional Airport is located on Airport Road in Manteo. Its two runways are 3,290 feet and 4,300 feet in length. Fuel, services, restrooms, and an area for pilots to sleep are offered. For information, call 252-475-5570 or visit www.fly2mqi.com. Air charters are available to and from the airport from just about anywhere east of the Mississippi River. A few local shuttle services and car and limousine rentals are available at the airport as well. Additional paved runways are located at Kill Devil Hills, Hatteras Island, and Ocracoke Island, but no support services are available at those locations.
One of the best sources of information about the area is the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau, at One Visitors Center Circle off U.S. 64/264 in Manteo (27954). For information about the history, culture, and folklore of the area, call 877-629-4386 or visit www.outerbanks.org. Those interested in learning about Ocracoke Island should contact the Greater Hyde County Chamber of Commerce by calling 888-493-3826 or 252-926-9171 or by visiting www.hydecounty.org.
The Northern Banks boast some of the newest and oldest resort areas in North Carolina.
Nags Head was one of the first beach resorts on the East Coast. People began going there in the early 1800s, seeking ocean breezes to provide respite from sweltering Southern summers. The first complaints about excessive development destroying the quaint atmosphere of the Outer Banks were made around 1830. By contrast, almost all of the development north of Duck has taken place in the last 25 years, since there was no paved road to Corolla until 1984.
The northern Banks and beaches stretch from Corolla to Nags Head. Here, you’ll discover the northernmost lighthouse on the Banks, the tallest sand dune on the East Coast, and the spot where man first took flight. Or you can just relax in your lounge chair and watch the day pass by. The northern Banks offer some of both the least-developed and most-developed seashore on the Outer Banks. Visitors thus have the opportunity to be alone or in the middle of everything.
Things to Do
Historic Places, Gardens, and Tours
Currituck Beach Lighthouse, located at 1101 Corolla Village Road in Corolla (27927), is the northernmost lighthouse on the Outer Banks and the last major brick lighthouse built on the Outer Banks. Its approximately 1 million bricks were left unpainted to distinguish it from its famous counterparts. Begun in 1873 and completed two years later, it served the 40-mile area of dark coastline between Cape Henry Lighthouse to the north in Virginia and Bodie Island Lighthouse to the south. The 162-foot Currituck Beach Lighthouse had a light visible at 18 nautical miles. Before the advent of electricity, it was powered by a mineral-oil lamp that consisted of five concentric wicks, the largest of which was four inches in diameter. The lighthouse keeper was required to physically move the huge lens every two and a half hours to keep the light flashing. Cranking by hand the weights that were suspended from a line beneath the lantern, he moved the light much in the way a grandfather clock’s gears turn to make the hour chime. The beam flooded the night sky for three seconds before fading to black for 17 seconds. This not only warned passing ships of the treacherous coastline but also allowed them to decipher where they were on their journey.
The lighthouse is still a navigational tool for sailors today, emitting its beam from dusk until dawn, though the keeper doesn’t have to crank the lens nowadays. Visitors are invited to climb the 214 steps to the top, weather permitting. An interpretive guide is on hand to share facts about the lighthouse.
Also on the grounds is the lighthouse keepers’ home. Shipped by barge to the Banks already precut and labeled for easy assembly, the Victorian Stick-style dwelling was completed in 1876. Two keepers and their families moved in to share the duplex. Visitors are not allowed to tour the home, as it is undergoing restoration by Outer Banks Conservationists, Inc.
Other structures on the property include cisterns for catching rainwater for household use, an outhouse, a chapel, and a schoolhouse. A museum shop is located in a second lighthouse keeper’s home, built in 1870 at Long Point Lighthouse on Currituck Sound and shipped to its current location in 1920.
No keepers have lived here since the light was automated in 1939.
Currituck Beach Lighthouse and the museum shop are open daily from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. from the week before Easter to the week after Thanksgiving. On Thursdays in summer, the lighthouse is open until 8 P.M. An admission fee is charged. Children must be at least four years old to climb the lighthouse. For more information, call 252-453-4939 or visit www.currituckbeachlight.com.
The Whalehead Club, at 1084 Lighthouse Drive in Corolla (27927), is located a short walk from the Currituck Beach Lighthouse. Completed in 1925 after three years and $383,000 in construction costs, it was for a time a private residence called Corolla Island, the first home on the Outer Banks to have a basement, an elevator, and a swimming pool.
The local legend surrounding that stunning home reads like a romance novel. Edward Collings Knight, Jr., a wealthy executive with the Pennsylvania Railroad and the American Sugar Refinery, married a beautiful, talented French huntress by the name of Marie Louise LeBel. Marie loved vacationing in what was one of the best duck- and waterfowl-hunting spots in the world (Currituck is Indian for “Land of the Wild Goose”), but when she tried to join a local hunt club, she was turned down due to her gender. So Marie convinced Edward to build her a home that would eclipse any hunt club on the Outer Banks.
Visitors to their dinner parties found numbered and signed Tiffany lighting fixtures, a custom-made dining-room table and chairs with a signature water lily design carved into the wood, and door handles and hinges molded to look like water lily buds. Five chimneys, a large library, cork floors, corduroy walls, copper shingles, and pink tiles on the walls of the kitchen were other features of the lavish Art Nouveau–style home.
The Whalehead Club began to fall into disrepair after the Knights’ tenure. It was used for purposes ranging from a boys’ school to a facility for testing solid rocket fuel for the nation’s space program. The club was bought by Currituck County in 1992 and has been restored to its original grandeur as part of the 39-acre Currituck Heritage Park. The main house, the original boathouse, and the pedestrian footbridge are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The grounds are open from dawn until dusk. Tours of the club’s first two floors and gallery are given from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. daily from April through November and Monday through Saturday from December through March. A variety of other tours are offered, including the “Search and Find Tour,” the docent-led standard tour, the “Behind the Scenes Tour,” the “Nuts and Bolts Tour,” the “Children’s Treasure Hunt,” and the “Legends, Lore, and Ghost Tour.” The “Moonlight Ghost Tour” takes place at 7:30 P.M. the first Saturday of the month from November through April. Reservations are required for all except the regular tour. An admission fee is charged; children eight and younger are admitted free with an adult on the regular tour. For more information, call 252-453-9040 or visit www.whalehead.org.
Wright Brothers National Memorial, at Milepost 8 on U.S. 158 (North Croatan Highway) in Kill Devil Hills (27948), honors a moment that changed history. Orville and Wilbur Wright, bicycle shop owners from Dayton, Ohio, had dreams of flying while they worked on their spokes and gears. They began pursuing their dream in earnest in 1899, when Wilbur wrote to the Smithsonian Institution asking for information on flight. Then the brothers set about finding out for themselves how to fly. For three years, they tested various gliders around Kitty Hawk and Kill Devil Hills. They also built a wind tunnel back in Ohio to learn the aerodynamics that would enable them to get off the ground. As Wilbur once said, “It is possible to fly without motors, but not without knowledge and skill.”
On December 14, 1903, the brothers were ready to test a powered machine. They flipped a coin to see who would fly first; Wilbur won. He eased himself into the plane and took off from the launching rail, but the plane climbed too steeply and stalled. For three days, they repaired the plane. On the morning of December 17, they once again took their 40-foot, 605-pound Flyer into the sand. Amid 27-mile-per-hour wind gusts, Orville took flight for the first time, staying aloft for 12 seconds and 120 feet. The brothers took turns flying after that. The fourth and final flight—by Wilbur—was the most successful, lasting 59 seconds and covering 852 feet. After that, a gust of wind overturned the plane and damaged it beyond repair.
The visitor center, administered by the National Park Service, is the first stop at Wright Brothers National Memorial. It contains full-scale reproductions of one of the brothers’ gliders and the famous Flyer that made the first flight. Interpretive talks are given in the center. The gift shop on the premises offers books and memorabilia.
Guests can see how the brothers lived and worked by visiting the reconstructed camp buildings on the grounds. Near the camp buildings are markers commemorating the takeoff and landing points of the first four flights.
The centerpiece of the memorial, however, is the 60-foot granite monument atop the 90-foot Kill Devil Hill, from which the brothers launched hundreds of glider flights before they ever built their first powered machine. Visitors can walk to the top of the hill and gaze down upon the entire site. Bronze busts of the Wrights are on one side of the monument.
The memorial is open daily except Christmas. An admission fee is charged for visitors 17 and older. For more information, call 252-441-7430 or visit www.nps.gov/wrbr.
Colington Island, just south of Wright Brothers National Memorial, is the site of the first permanent settlement on the Outer Banks. Accessible by Colington Road off U.S. 158, the island features several seafood shops and campgrounds and offers visitors a nice photographic opportunity in a relatively undeveloped area of the Banks.
Museums and Science Centers
Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education, at 1160 Village Lane in Corolla (27927), is a 22,000-square-foot facility located in Corolla Heritage Park. It features a waterfowl decoy gallery, an exhibit hall, and an auditorium with informational videos on the area’s unique history, traditions, and natural resources. In the summer, it offers extensive programs on coastal wildlife and outdoor skills. The center is open Monday through Saturday from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. Admission is free. For more information, call 252-453-0221 or visit www.ncwildlife.org/pg08_EducationWorkshops/Outer_Banks_Center.htm.
The United States Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility, at 1261 Duck Road in Duck (27949), is the home of the Waterways Experiment Station. Waves, winds, currents, and tides are monitored and recorded at this site from a pier that extends 1,840 feet into the ocean. Walking tours are given at 10 A.M. Monday through Friday from mid-June to August only; those who arrive after 10 A.M. will not be permitted within the facility due to security reasons. Admission is free. For more information, call 252-261-6840 or visit www.frf.usace.army.mil.
Corolla Wild Horse Museum, located in a restored schoolhouse at 1126 School-house Lane in Corolla (27927), shares the history and legacy of the Banker horses. The wild horses on the northern Banks, the descendants of Spanish mustangs, have been living here for over 500 years. They’re currently confined to a large area north of Corolla. At the museum, you can see photographic exhibits that tell their story. This is also the place to learn the best way to see the horses. Numerous private companies offer excursions into the wild-horse area; the museum staff can tell you which are the most reputable and reliable. The museum is open Monday through Friday from 10 A.M. to 4 P.M.; call for winter hours. Call 252-453-8002 or visit www.corollawildhorses.com.
Scarborough Faire, at 1177 Duck Road in Duck (27949), is an intimate shopping village nestled in the woods. If you’re looking for the perfect gift, a great book, wickedly decadent fudge, or a wonderful meal, you’ll find it here. The shopping center was established in the 1980s by Duck landowners who wanted to preserve the village atmosphere. Its 15 shops have something to delight anyone. For more information, visit www.scarboroughfaireinducknc.com.
Outer Barks, at 1171 Duck Road in Duck (27949), features the East Coast’s largest selection of unique gifts for dog lovers. It’s located in the Scarborough Lane Shoppes adjacent to Scarborough Faire. In addition to gifts, the shop hosts a weekly “Yappy Happy Hour” for dogs and their owners. For information, call 252-261-6279 or visit www.outerbarks.com.
North Carolina has seen a boom in wineries in the past decade, and the Banks claim two of their own on Knotts Island (27950), located northwest of Corolla in Currituck Sound.
Martin Vineyards, at 213 Martin Farm Lane, was started by the Martin family in 1977 as a peach and scuppernong grape farm. Today, it boasts a variety of wines from muscadine to Merlot. Wine tastings are offered year-round; the fee is waived with the purchase of a bottle. Visitors can pick their own fruit seasonally. From May through December, Martin Vineyards is open daily except Wednesday from noon to 5 P.M. From January through April, it is open weekdays except Wednesday from noon to 3 P.M. and weekends from noon to 5 P.M. For more information, call 252429-3542 or visit www.martinvineyards.com.
Moonrise Bay Vineyard, at 134 Moonrise Bay Landing off N.C. 615 and Woodleigh Road, is named after the stunning moonrises owner Richard “Oakie” Morris and his wife, Kate, enjoy nightly over the quiet, starry sound. They created the winery as a hobby in 1997 and made it into a family business in 1999. Since then, it has grown to offer more than a dozen award-winning wines. Moonrise Bay is open for tours and tastings daily from noon to 5 P.M. and by appointment. Special-event dinners are also available by reservation. For more information, call 866-888-9463 or 252-429-9463 or visit www.moonrisebaywine.com.
The northern Banks are also home to an ever-growing arts community. More than 20 galleries are located between Duck and Nags Head alone. Gallery Row in Nags Head features some of the best outlets in the state. Be sure to check out the Dare County Arts Council’s website at www.darearts.org for a complete listing of the area’s art events.
One of the best-known establishments is Glenn Eure’s Ghost Fleet Gallery, near Milepost 10.5 at 210 East Driftwood Street in Nags Head (27959). Eure is a noted character in these parts, having created everything from the artwork on display to the building housing the gallery. Offerings here range from gallery showings to poetry readings and guest lectures. For more information, call 252-441-6584.
Seaside Art Gallery is located near Milepost 11 at 2716 South Virginia Dare Trail/N.C. 12 in Nags Head (27959). In addition to the work of local artists, visitors can view and purchase original pieces by the likes of Picasso, Whistler, Dali, and Renoir. Kids will enjoy the artwork by Warner Brothers Studios and Hanna Barbera Animation. For more information, call 252-441-5418 or visit www.seasideart.com.
You should also plan to visit Lighthouse Gallery and Gifts, at 301 East Driftwood Street in Nags Head (27959). This gallery offers original works of art, memorabilia, and books pertaining to lighthouses. For information, call 800-579-2827 or visit www.seabeacons.com.
Tanger Outlet Mall, at Milepost 16.5 on U.S. 158, is a good place to spend a rainy day or to hide out if you’ve had too much sun. Shoppers can find bargains from clothing retailers like Polo by Ralph Lauren and Gap and shoe manufacturers like Bass and Nine West. For information, visit www.tangeroutlet.com or call 252441-5634.
Recreation
Swimming, fishing, kayaking, windsurfing, parasailing, surfing, water-skiing—the northern Banks is the place for great recreation. Watersports are the pastime of choice here. Thanks to the bounty of water, visitors find countless ways to keep wet. But please note that not all the beaches have lifeguards. And since the currents and tides have sunk over 1,500 ships and given the area the infamous nickname “Graveyard of the Atlantic,” be sure to keep your wits about you while enjoying all the amusements the sea has to offer.
Kitty Hawk Sports is the watersports headquarters of the Outer Banks. Everything from swimwear to surfboards to kayaking gear is offered at its various stores in Corolla (252-453-4999 or 252-453-6900), Duck (252-261-8770), Kitty Hawk (252261-0145), and Nags Head (252-441-6800 or 252-441-2756). Windsurfing and kayaking lessons are available, as is sailing, windsurfing, and kayaking rental equipment. For more information, visit www.kittyhawksports.com.
If fishing is your sport of choice, you’ll be pleased to see the piers and marinas dotting the Banks. Indeed, the area is known as “the Billfish Capital of the World.” Of course, piers are highly vulnerable to storm damage, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and make sure the pier you plan on visiting is still there. Fees are charged at the piers to fish or just to watch others reel in their catch; weekly and seasonal passes are available.
Avalon Fishing Pier, at 2111 North Virginia Dare Trail in Kill Devil Hills (27948), is open spring, summer, and fall. Its website features a live webcam, daily fishing reports, and a chatroom. For information, call 252-441-7494 or visit www.avalonpier.com.
Nags Head Fishing Pier, at 3335 South Virginia Dare Trail in Nags Head (27959), is open year-round. It offers a tackle shop and a restaurant that will cook your catch for you. For information, call 252-441-5141 or visit www.nagsheadpier.com.
Roanoke Sound Pier, at 7665 South Virginia Dare Trail in Nags Head (27959) along the Manteo causeway, is known as a hot spot for crabbing and catching speckled trout, striped bass, and flounder. For information, call 252-441-5740 or visit www.fishingunlimited.net/SoundPier.html.
Jennette’s Fishing Pier, at 7223 South Virginia Dare Trail in Nags Head (27959), is the granddaddy of Outer Banks fishing. Built in 1939, it withstood time and hurricanes to join the 21st century before Hurricane Isabel in September 2003 took out 540 feet of the pier. Renovations began in May 2009 and are scheduled to be completed by May 2011. The facility is owned and operated by the North Carolina Aquarium Society. It offers an ocean classroom and the largest trophy-fish collection in North Carolina. For information, call 252-441-6421 or visit www.jennettespier.net.
If you’re feeling waterlogged, you’ll be happy to note the many recreational opportunities to be had on land.
N.C. 12 ends just north of Corolla. After that, there are no paved roads in the 10-mile tract of undeveloped land that includes Currituck National Wildlife Refuge. Within the refuge are sandy beaches, grassy dunes, maritime forests, shrub thickets, and fresh and brackish marshes, along with a variety of birds, turtles, foxes, rabbits, wild boars, deer, and the famous wild horses of the northern Banks. The refuge can be reached on foot, in a kayak, or by driving up the beach in a four-wheel-drive vehicle. It is open year-round during daylight hours except for federal holidays. For information, visit www.fws.gov/currituck.
Currituck Banks National Estuarine Research Reserve is a 960-acre site north of Corolla off N.C. 12. A parking lot provides access to a 0.3-mile boardwalk that goes through a maritime forest and concludes at Currituck Sound. Visitors can also take the 1.5-mile primitive trail to explore more of the maritime forest. The warm Gulf Stream mixes with the cool Labrador Current off Currituck Banks. This creates a climate where Northern species reach the southern limit of their ranges and Southern species reach the northern limit of their ranges. The result is stunning biodiversity. For more information, visit www.nccoastalreserve.net.
Pine Island Audubon Sanctuary is a 6,000-acre wildlife sanctuary that stretches from Currituck Sound to the Atlantic Ocean. It can be accessed just north of Duck off N.C. 12 near The Sanderling. Visitors can take a self-guided hike along a 2.5-mile trail through sand dunes, sea oats, live oaks, and maritime marshes to discover what the northern Banks looked like a century ago, before development. Two observation platforms are stationed along the trail for resting and picture taking. For over a decade now, the Audubon Society has overseen the sanctuary and its more than 350 species of plants and 159 species of birds in an effort to conserve the state’s natural habitats. For information, visit www.nc.audubon.org/birds-science-education/pine-island or call 252-453-2838.
Duck Town Park, at 1240 Duck Road (27949) consists of 11 acres of sound-front property in the heart of Duck. Visitors enjoy trails, a gazebo, a public kayak/canoe launch, and an 1,800-foot boardwalk that provides gorgeous views of Currituck Sound, especially at sunset. For information, visit www.townofduck.com/ourtownpark.htm.
Nags Head Woods Ecological Preserve, at 701 West Ocean Acres Drive in Kill Devil Hills (27948), is a 1,092-acre maritime forest managed by the Nature Conservancy. It is located on the western shore of Nags Head off U.S. 158. The preserve, designated a national natural landmark by Congress in 1974, is home to over 50 bird species and an array of aquatic life, including the rare water violet. Visitors may be surprised to learn that the Outer Banks is the northern limit of the American alligator’s habitat; the gators here are a bit smaller than their Florida counterparts. The preserve offers walking trails and a visitor center, where guests can pick up maps and learn about the research conducted on the grounds. It is open daily from dawn to dusk. Admission is free. For information, call 252-441-2525 or visit www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/northcarolina/preserves/art5618.html.
Jockey’s Ridge State Park is located at 100 West Carolista Drive near Milepost 12 off U.S. 158 in Nags Head (27959). This 414-acre park features the tallest sand-dune system on the East Coast; its highest dune stands around 140 feet, depending on the prevailing winds. Used as a horse-racing track at the beginning of the 20th century, this land is now most famous for its kite-flying and hang-gliding opportunities. It was on dunes like these that the Wright brothers learned to fly; on a clear day, you can even see the granite monument at Wright Brothers National Memorial. The trails leading up the sand dunes offer a view of the entire width of Nags Head, all the way from Roanoke Sound to the Atlantic Ocean. This unbeatable panorama draws people to the “Sunset on the Ridge” program that park rangers present around 8 P.M. nearly every evening during summer. Visitors can bring a picnic dinner and enjoy the sunset as they learn how the dunes were formed and the story behind the ridge’s name. The park offers a variety of educational programs, hiking trails, picnic facilities, restrooms, and a visitor center. The hours vary according to the season, so be sure to call before you visit. Admission is free. Call 252-441-7132 or visit www.jockeysridgestatepark.com.
Across the street from Jockey’s Ridge State Park is the largest of more than a dozen Kitty Hawk Kites stores dotting the Outer Banks. The Nags Head location is home to the world’s largest hang-gliding school. Here, instructors certified by the United States Hang Gliding Association teach an average of 10,000 students per year in beginning, intermediate, and advanced foot-launch and tandem hang gliding. Kitty Hawk Kites also offers guided outdoor activities including kayak ecotours and jet-boat tours. And the knowledgeable sales staff can help you find the perfect kite to use on the Outer Banks. For more information, call 877-359-8447 or visit www.kittyhawkkites.com.
Getting off the sand and onto the greens is also possible on the Banks. Some very impressive golf courses are in the area.
The Currituck Club, at 620 Currituck Clubhouse Drive in Corolla (27927), features a Rees Jones–designed championship course. Call 252-453-9400 or visit www.currituckclubobx.org.
Duck Woods Country Club, at 50 South Dogwood Trail in Southern Shores (27949), is a venerable 18-hole course that has welcomed golfers since the late 1960s. Call 252-261-2744 or visit www.duckwoodscc.com.
Sea Scape Golf Links, at 300 Eckner Street in Kitty Hawk (27949), is located at the edge of a maritime forest. The course offers a nice view of the ocean from several holes. Call 252-261-2158 or visit www.seascapegolf.com.
Nags Head Golf Links, at 5615 South Seachase Drive in Nags Head (27959), has an 18-hole championship course designed by Bob Moore. Call 252-441-8073 or visit www.nagsheadgolflinks.com.
Seasonal Events
The Outer Banks prides itself on its good-time atmosphere, so the abundance of festivals and celebrations throughout the year should come as no surprise. As you may guess, many center around the area’s greatest assets—the wind and water. From seafood feasts to sailing regattas, the Outer Banks knows how to throw a good party.
The nation’s oldest hang-gliding competition occurs in Nags Head in mid-May. The Annual Hang Gliding Spectacular and Air Games, held at Jockey’s Ridge State Park, offers an impressive and multicolored array of flyers. For more information, call 877-359-8447 or 252-441-4124 or visit www.hangglidingspectacular.com.
The Outer Banks Pirate Festival takes place in mid-September. It is hosted by Kitty Hawk Kites and Blackbeard’s Crew, a living-history performance group that specializes in reenacting pirate raids. The festival features tales of the sea told by pirates, pirate training for children, and live cannon fire. For more information, see the events page of www.kittyhawk.com or visit www.blackbeardscrew.org.
The Annual Nags Head Surf Fishing Club Invitational Tournament, held in early October, has hosted many of the area’s best competition fishermen for over 50 years. For information, visit www.nagsheadsurffishingclub.org.
Jockey’s Ridge State Park, arguably the best kite-flying spot on earth, and Kitty Hawk Kites offer the Annual Outer Banks Stunt-Kite Competition in October. Sanctioned by the American Kiting Association, the event features workshops, demonstrations, and kite-flying ballets. For information, call 877-359-8447 or 252-441-4124 or visit the events page of www.kittyhawk.com. The good folks at Kitty Hawk Kites can tell you about the many other kite-flying competitions in the area, too.
Wings Over Water is a six-day wildlife festival that takes place in early November throughout the Outer Banks. Guided nature tours are offered at locations ranging from the area north of Corolla to Portsmouth Island, just south of Ocracoke. For information, visit www.wingsoverwater.org.
Places to Stay
The northern Banks and beaches offer a wide range of places to stay, from charming bed-and-breakfasts to steadfast, reliable chains. Families, honeymooners, and salty old fishermen alike will be able to find the places that fit them best. You’ll discover that Corolla, Duck, Sanderling, Southern Shores, and Kitty Hawk have much to offer in the way of cottages and bed-and-breakfasts. Kill Devil Hills and Nags Head are where you’ll find the majority of hotels and motels.
There are three seasons on the Banks. Peak season is Memorial Day through Labor Day. Off-season is Easter through Memorial Day in the spring and Labor Day through Thanksgiving in the fall. The winter season is Thanksgiving through Easter. Lodgings are crowded in summer and nearly uninhabited in winter. Rates for the same accommodations can vary by as much as $500 between peak season and winter. Minimum stays may be required at some places. Be sure to call well in advance to book your perfect spot. Two good resources to check before booking are the websites of the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau (www.outerbanks.org) and the Outer Banks Chamber of Commerce (www.outerbankschamber.com).
Resorts, Hotels, and Motels
The Sanderling. Deluxe. 1461 Duck Road in Duck, 27949 (877-650-4812 or 252-261-4111; www.thesanderling.com). Comprised of three inns, a spa, and a conference center, The Sanderling is one of the most lovely—and most expensive—places to stay on the Outer Banks. Featuring luxuriously appointed guest rooms and five three- and four-bedroom villas, the resort sits on 12 acres spanning the peninsula from Currituck Sound to the Atlantic Ocean. Many guests come here to enjoy the quiet, natural beauty of the area, though others say the full-service spa is the real draw. Guests are also pampered by the pool, the health club, the tennis courts, the sun deck, and the private beach. If you decide to stay here, you should definitely look into the adjoining Lifesaving Station Restaurant.
Hampton Inn & Suites Outer Banks. Deluxe/Expensive. 333 Audubon Drive in Corolla, 27927 (252-453-6565; www.hamptoninn-outerbanks.com). This beachfront hotel, conveniently located between Duck and Corolla, features 123 standard rooms and studio suites with complimentary high-speed Internet access for those who must check their e-mail while on vacation. Other amenities include an indoor pool, an outdoor pool, and a “lazy river” water ride that’s great for cooling off. A guest laundromat is on the premises, as are exercise and game rooms. During the week, free On the Run™ breakfast bags are offered for those who can’t wait to get out and explore. A daily complimentary continental breakfast is served in the dining room for those who prefer a more leisurely pace.
The Carolina Oceanfront. Expensive/Moderate. 401 North Virginia Dare Trail in Kill Devil Hills, 27948 (800-854-5286 or 252-480-2600; www.thecarolinaoceanfront.com). This clean, friendly hotel has three floors, 119 guest rooms, and an oceanfront pool. The rooms include refrigerators, microwaves, and coffee makers. A complimentary breakfast is offered each morning. This is among the more affordable options for families. According to hotel policy, an adult 21 or older must be booked for each room.
Days Inn & Suites Mariner. Expensive/Moderate. 1801 North Virginia Dare Trail in Kill Devil Hills, 27948 (800-329-7466 or 252-441-2021; www.outer-banks.com/days-mariner). Another of the many reliable chain lodgings along the northern Banks, this oceanfront hotel located a mile from Wright Brothers National Memorial offers standard, double, and king rooms and ocean-view suites featuring a kitchen, a living room, and two bedrooms. Kids will enjoy the outdoor pool, and those looking to get in some exercise can use the hotel’s complimentary YMCA passes. Oregon Inlet Fishing Center parties receive a discount. Complimentary continental breakfast is served daily.
Salt Spray, Dreaming, and Abiding
Clouds move in from the east. Tomorrow, they will linger over the sand, drench the dunes in a chilling rain. Maybe it was a stretch of gray October sky or the cold-hearted dimness of a February morning that first made me so curious about this place. It is always in nature’s cheerlessness that I think about the earliest Bankers, the ones who settled what is now Duck and other towns in Dare County. I wonder how much courage this thin strip of sand can hold, how much it has already sapped over the years from the people who willingly risked it all on a chance as unsure as this wind-swept barrier island.
When those old-time Bankers passed on, they had no idea how valuable their sons’ and daughters’ inheritances would become. Even a thousand feet of waterfront property held no guarantee. There were never any sure bets here. Maybe the greatest virtue of this place has nothing to do with its ocean-view houses or sound-front lots, but with longings so intense they can’t be shaken, blown off, or washed away. Maybe the Bankers’ greatest bequest was their ability to be dreamers, to hold firm despite all the challenges and uncertainties, to abide.
It’s the salt spray, I’ve been told, that can stunt the growth of plants along the Atlantic beachfront. On the Outer Banks, the habitat is too brutal for much of nature’s greenery. But panic grass, sea elder, and evening primrose flourish on the frontal dunes in Duck. They know how to survive the harsh winds, the blowing sand, the shifts and changes that mark these shores. Dune plants thrive and spread because their roots grow down, then out. They dig deep. Maybe this is the legacy nature has left to the Bankers, old and new. It’s a lesson that even the outsiders who have decided to stay, like David Stick, seem to have learned.
Bygone days may have proven that nothing comes easily to those who seek beginnings on the Outer Banks. Yet when I’m here, all the effort makes sense. The beauty, the mystery, the stories of aviators and dune builders, the adventures of dodging smoke bombs or digging for them under a sliver of white moon—all seem reason enough to hope that in this place, almost anything is possible.
No longer is it hard imagining what the Duck of the 1950s must have looked like—just a drowsy village with twenty-one property owners, one store, and probably fewer than a hundred residents. Approaching Duck Blind Villas, my car has sole possession of the road. Nothing moves in front of or behind me. It’s nearly supper-time in the off-season, and Duck lulls. Only the faint pink glow of a sinking sun lingers over the Currituck. Streetlights will click on soon, but they haven’t sensed night’s coming yet.
It seems I could almost be driving into Duck’s past. I envision the old village. The road is something other than smooth, black tar. I feel mounds of graded sand beneath the tires. The curves sharper and coming more quickly, I slow down, expecting rough spots ahead. Dozens of wild ducks streak a steel-gray sky. On the Currituck, a few hunters patch blinds with pine brush or pole their skiffs homeward through the shallow sound. On a front porch, neighborhood women spread a fishing net over their laps, their song a psalm for Sunday’s service, their hands busy mending for the next day’s catch. To the right and left, groves of oak grow without interruption. Their branches are bent and partially stripped of leaves. Like old sentries, they wave me in through the winter dusk.
Advice 5¢. Deluxe. 11 Scarborough Lane in Duck, 27949 (800-238-4235 or 252-255-1050; www.advice5.com). This intimate and friendly inn is close to area shops and restaurants, making an evening stroll for ice cream a pleasure. Featuring four guest rooms and one suite, all with private baths and decks, the inn gives visitors a home-away-from-home feeling. A swimming pool, tennis courts, and a private walkway to the beach are available. Tea, coffee, and home-baked goods are provided for breakfast, and a lovely afternoon tea offers a respite from the sun. The inn hosts an annual 5K race around Thanksgiving, an event eagerly anticipated all over the Banks.
Cypress Moon Inn. Deluxe. 1206 Harbor Court in Kitty Hawk, 27949 (877-9055060 or 252-261-5060; www.cypressmooninn.com). The proprietors of this inn have lived on the Outer Banks for more than a quarter-century, and they know how to make visitors feel at home. The inn’s three guest rooms feature comfy queen-sized beds, private bathrooms, refrigerators, satellite television and radio, and, most importantly, gorgeous views of Kitty Hawk Sound. Guests can also enjoy the views from the inn’s double-decker wraparound porches, from the hammocks stationed around the property, and from the kayaks furnished by the innkeepers. A full breakfast with vegetarian options is provided daily.
Bald View Bed-and-Breakfast. Deluxe/Expensive. 3805 Elijah Baum Road in Kitty Hawk, 27949 (252-255-2829; www.baldview.com). Bordering 11 acres of Kitty Hawk Sound and a maritime forest, this bed-and-breakfast offers a breather from the busy pace of the northern Banks. You’ll feel like you’re in a secluded retreat when you stay in one of the four guest rooms, each of which has a private bath and a television. The shared public rooms feature antiques, and the many family portraits hanging throughout the home have lots of stories behind them. The best feature, though, is the spectacular view of the sound. The ocean is only five minutes away, too. Breakfast is served every morning.
First Colony Inn. Deluxe/Expensive. 6720 South Virginia Dare Trail in Nags Head, 27959 (800-368-9390 or 252-441-2343; www.firstcolonyinn.com). One of the largest inns in Nags Head, First Colony opened its doors in 1932 and is now listed on the National Register. Its 27 guest rooms have earned the inn a Four Diamond rating from AAA. Each unique room is appointed with English antiques. Some feature a wet bar, a kitchenette, a whirlpool tub, a sitting room, or a private screened porch. Guests are invited to enjoy a few quiet moments reading in the library or taking in the salty air and the beautiful sunsets from the inn’s gazebo on the dunes. A hot continental breakfast buffet is served daily in the breakfast room.
The Inn at Corolla Light. Deluxe/Expensive. 1066 Ocean Trail in Corolla, 27927 (800-215-0772 or 252-453-3340; www.corolla-inn.com). If you want to be away from the hustle and bustle of the Banks, this is the place. Located two miles from the end of N.C. 12, the inn offers 43 spacious rooms, each with its own bathroom and many with a whirlpool tub, a gas fireplace, and a kitchen and lounge area. The ocean, the sound, and Currituck Beach Lighthouse are all within walking distance, but guests are also free to use the inn’s bicycles or the local trolley service to get there. A sports complex featuring an Olympic-sized swimming pool and clay tennis courts is only two blocks away, for those who want to work off their complimentary continental breakfast. The innkeepers’ son, Bob, runs a wild horse tour that explores the uninhabited beaches and the wildlife north of Corolla.
Places to Eat
The restaurants along the northern Banks offer far more than the normal beach fare of fried seafood. You’ll find an eclectic blend of Caribbean, Italian, French, Southwestern, and vegetarian cuisines. Everything from elegant wine dinners to burgers and fries is available. Since most restaurants recognize that guests are on vacation, casual, neat beach attire is the accepted form of dress. During the busy summer season, you can expect a wait for dinner almost anyplace. Reservations may be required at some restaurants and not accepted at others, so call ahead to be sure.
The Blue Point. Expensive. In the Waterfront Shops at 1240 Duck Road in Duck, 27949 (252-261-8090; www.goodfoodgoodwine.com). This restaurant, formerly known as The Blue Point Bar and Grill, quickly became a local favorite when it opened in 1989. You’ll see why when you try its delicious Southern coastal cuisine, described by the classically trained chef as “cutting edge with a comfort factor.” Many of the dishes rely on locally grown—and often organic—products. Reservations are accepted up to a month in advance; you should probably take advantage of this time window if you want to enjoy The Blue Point during summer. For a special treat, try to time your meal to coincide with a sunset over Currituck Sound, which can be spectacular. Lunch is served Tuesday through Sunday. Dinner is served Tuesday through Sunday from November to April and daily the rest of the year.
Elizabeth’s Café and Winery. Expensive. In Scarborough Faire Shopping Village at 1177 Duck Road in Duck, 27949 (252-261-6145; www.elizabethscafe.com). Voted one of the top 100 restaurants of the 20th century by the International Restaurant and Hospitality Rating Bureau, Elizabeth’s serves up haute cuisine without the attitude or the price. Guests can order international fare from a prix fixe menu that changes nightly or an à la carte menu. Wine dinners are also available, allowing guests to enjoy Elizabeth’s special wines, given an Award of Excellence by Wine Spectator magazine. In fact, around 1,600 wines are on hand at any given time. Dinner is served Monday through Saturday during summer and Tuesday through Saturday the rest of the year.
Metropolis. Expensive. 520 Old Stoney Road in Corolla, 27927 (252-453-6167; www.metropolisobx.com). For a slow, leisurely, savory meal in Corolla, Metropolis is the place to go. Its extensive selection of light and heavy tapas varies depending on what’s in season. Featuring a knowledgeable wait staff and an extensive martini menu, Metropolis is a wonderful place for a special meal. It is open daily during the busy season and offers very late hours.
Lifesaving Station Restaurant. Expensive/Moderate. On the grounds of The Sanderling at 1417 Duck Road in Duck, 27949 (252-261-4111; www.thesanderling.com/dining.aspx). This casual restaurant features traditional and coastal Southern cuisine prepared with the finest and freshest ingredients. The menu changes regularly to take advantage of what the season has to offer. Gourmet meals are paired with wines from the Lifesaving Station’s wine room. Housed in what used to be the Caffey’s Inlet Lifesaving Station and decorated with memorabilia from times gone by, the restaurant gives a sense of what the area was like before it became a tourist destination. An outdoor pavilion open on weekdays offers a casual dining experience. From the pavilion, guests can watch the sun set over the sound and take in the cool ocean breeze. Dinner reservations are recommended. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily; a three-course Sunday brunch is available as well.
Meridian 42. Expensive/Moderate. In Southern Shores Crossing Shopping Center at 1 Ocean Boulevard in Southern Shores, 27949 (www.meridian42.com; 252261-0420). Once inside this airy, Mediterranean-inspired restaurant, you’ll know you’re about to experience a special meal. The dishes served here, some of the best along the Banks, take their inspiration from Barcelona, Spain, and Rome, Italy—cities located along the 42nd meridian, or latitude line. You’ll definitely notice the emphasis on fresh local ingredients, including seafood caught from the Atlantic just that morning. All tapas, pastas, and baked goods are made on the premises to complement the large wine selection, for which Meridian 42 was named a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence recipient. Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations are accepted up to two weeks in advance.
Port O’ Call Restaurant and Gaslight Saloon. Expensive/Moderate. Milepost 8.5, 504 South Virginia Dare Trail in Kill Devil Hills, 27948 (252-441-7484; www.outerbanksportocall.com). Feeding locals and tourists alike for over 20 years, this restaurant is an Outer Banks landmark. The plush Victorian atmosphere is unique, to say the least; velvet settees, Tiffany lamps, and copious artwork adorn the restaurant. The menu brags that it’s the most extensive on the beach, featuring seafood seven ways, from baked to blackened to broiled to grilled to sautéed to steamed to fried. Angus beef, chicken, pasta dishes, soups, and salads round out the menu. You can await your table in the Gaslight Saloon or retreat there after dinner for a nightcap and live entertainment. The gift shop offers jewelry, nautical items, collector dolls, local and national artists’ work, and Tiffany and Victorian lamps. Dinner is served nightly March through December. Seasonal live entertainment is offered.
Bad Bean Taqueria. Moderate. In Timbuck II Shopping Village at 785 Sunset Boulevard in Corolla, 27927 (252-453-4380; www.badbeanobx.com). Inspired by taquerias of the Pacific coast, the Bad Bean offers fresh local food. Its California-style burritos are genuinely giant, and its tacos filled with fresh local seafood are not to be missed. The Bad Bean also offers a wide selection of cold beers and special margaritas. It serves lunch and dinner daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day and Monday to Saturday the rest of the year.
Black Pelican Oceanfront Café. Moderate. Milepost 4, 3848 Virginia Dare Trail in Kitty Hawk, 27949 (877-890-6049 or 252-261-3171; www.blackpelican.com/main.cfm). The Black Pelican is housed in the 135-plus-year-old former lifesaving station and telegraph office where Orville and Wilbur Wright sent out to the world the news of their first flight. Diners can enjoy wood-oven pizzas and fresh local seafood. An on-site gift shop offers Wright brothers memorabilia. Lunch and dinner are served daily year-round.
Outer Banks Brewing Station. Moderate. Milepost 8.5, 600 South Croatan Highway in Kill Devil Hills, 27948 (252-449-2739; www.obbrewing.com). Besides brewing tasty seasonal beers with interesting names like “Hurley Burley Brown Ale” and “Huge Hefeweizen,” this restaurant serves delicious homemade pasta dishes, grilled duck and steak, and fresh seafood. It also offers burgers and fries, if you’re looking for more homey fare. It is the nation’s first wind-powered brewpub. Live entertainment is offered most nights in the bar. Dinner is served daily except Tuesday.
The Rundown Café & Tsunami Surf Bar. Moderate. Milepost 1, 5218 Virginia Dare Trail in Kitty Hawk, 27949 (252-255-0026; www.thecoastalexplorer.com/RundownCafe). Housed in a structure that looks like a Caribbean beach house, The Rundown Café offers a menu heavy on fresh ingredients and local seafood. The entrées range from Jerk chicken to fish tacos to seasoned shrimp. Vegetarian dishes include deliciously spicy Thai noodles. Among the desserts are chocolate peanut butter pie and—what else?—Key lime pie. A children’s menu is available, a feature you won’t find at all Banks restaurants. Lunch and dinner are served daily from February through November.
Slice Pizzeria. Moderate. Milepost 8.5, 710 South Croatan Highway in Kill Devil Hills, 27948 (252-449-8888; www.slicepizzeriaobx.com). Slice opened in June 2008 and is already a favorite place for locals. Its pizza is baked in a stone oven. Slice offers traditional pizza along with Chicago-style deep-dish pizza and a variety of pasta dishes, subs, and calzones. Lunch and dinner are served daily.
Sugar Creek Soundfront Seafood Restaurant. Moderate. Milepost 16.5, 7340 South Virginia Dare Trail in Nags Head, 27959 (252-441-4963). Located on the sound on the Nags Head–Manteo Causeway, Sugar Creek features a great view of the water separating Roanoke Island from the northern Banks. It’s been a local favorite for over two decades. Steaks and seafood are the specialties here. A lounge and a full bar serve up a variety of appetizers to guests waiting for an open table. Sugar Creek is open daily for lunch and dinner.
Awful Arthur’s Oyster Bar. Moderate/Inexpensive. Milepost 6, 2106 North Virginia Dare Trail in Kill Devil Hills, 27948 (252-441-5955; www.awfularthursobx.com). Awful Arthur’s is a casual hangout where you can get a dozen oysters at the steam bar or an entire meal in the adjoining restaurant. The local seafood, steaks, chicken, and pasta served here can be washed down with an assortment of beers. Awful Arthur’s T-shirts, a favorite of locals and frat guys, are sold in the neighboring gift shop. Lunch and dinner are offered daily year-round.
Sam and Omie’s. Moderate/Inexpensive. Milepost 16.5, 7228 South Virginia Dare Trail in Nags Head, 27959 (252-441-7366; www.samandomies.net). Sam and Omie’s has been an Outer Banks institution since 1937. Breakfast is the specialty here, as evidenced by the special “Omie-lettes” on the menu. This is also a nice place to select a quick but satisfying lunch from among the restaurant’s “Samiches.” You can’t go wrong with one of the salads, the she-crab soup, the steamed local seafood, or the homemade desserts either. Sam and Omie’s is open daily from March through November for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Surrounded by the waters of Roanoke Sound and Croatan Sound, Roanoke Island claims the honor of being the birthplace of English America. More than 400 years ago, intrepid explorers discovered this “goodliest land under the cope of heaven” and convinced Queen Elizabeth I to send settlers here to claim the land for England. Several attempts to settle the area were made—including one that saw the birth of the first English child on American soil—but none succeeded. Roanoke Island owes its heritage to the brave souls who gave up everything to seek out new opportunities and a new life in a strange land.
Manteo, named for one of the friendly Indians who helped the colonists, is the largest town on Roanoke Island. It prides itself on being a “walkable” community. Here, you will find the majority of shopping and dining opportunities on the island. Plan on spending a morning exploring the many shops on the waterfront, taking breakfast at one of the coffee shops, browsing the history section of the local book-store, checking out the kayaking and windsurfing gear at the outdoor shops, and feeding the sea gulls that fly over Shallowbag Bay. You’ll have chances to explore local history at Roanoke Island Festival Park and The Lost Colony outdoor drama as well.
Wanchese, to the south, is the other town on the island. It is much sleepier than Manteo. Also named for a Native American who assisted the colonists, Wanchese is a fishing village. More than 20 million pounds of fish are caught here every year, making this a fun place to watch boats and fishermen depart or return with their catch. Wanchese is worth the drive just to see what the Outer Banks is like without the crowds.
Roanoke Island is considered by many to be the heart of Outer Banks art and culture. You won’t find any major beaches here. Instead, plays, museums, living-history exhibits, gardens, concerts, and ballets keep people coming to this small island between the mainland and the barrier islands.
Things to Do
Visitors who want to see and do it all but still maintain their budgets may be interested in the free Outer Banks Getaway Card, which offers discounts on accommodations, shopping, dining, and recreational activities at participating area businesses during the off-season. The cards, a joint venture between the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau and Dare County businesses, are available by e-mailing the bureau at information@outerbanks.org or by filling out an online form at www.outerbanks.org/seasonal_savings/getaway_card.
JUST THE FACTS
From the north or the northern Banks, take U.S. 64/264 Bypass West over the Washington Baum Bridge. From the mainland, take U.S. 64/264 Bypass East over the Virginia Dare Memorial Bridge.
The Dare County Regional Airport is on Airport Road in Manteo. Its two runways are 3,290 feet and 4,300 feet in length. Fuel, services, restrooms, and an area for pilots to sleep are offered. For information, call 252-475-5570 or visit www.fly2mqi.com. Air charters are available to and from the airport from just about anywhere east of the Mississippi. A few local shuttle services and car and limousine rentals are available at the airport as well. Additional paved runways are located at Kill Devil Hills, Hatteras Island, and Ocracoke Island, though no support services are available at those locations.
Many different agencies offer information about the Outer Banks. One of the best is the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau (877-629-4386 or 252-473-2138; www.outerbanks.org), at One Visitors Center Circle off U.S. 64/264 in Manteo (27954). A useful page on the bureau’s website lists the rates and availability of rental units in the area. The town of Manteo has its own website at www.townofmanteo.com.
Historic Places, Gardens, and Tours
Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, at 1401 National Park Drive in Manteo (27954), is located off U.S. 64/264 at the northern end of the island. The site allows visitors to step back in time to see how the area looked over 400 years ago to the newly arrived English colonists, and to walk in the footsteps of those who attempted to tame this wild island, only to disappear without a trace. A visitor center administered by the National Park Service tells the story of the first colonists on Roanoke Island.
The English tried to settle the area many times, beginning in 1585 under the direction of Richard Grenville, a cousin of Sir Walter Raleigh, a leader in the move to explore the New World. Grenville led 600 men to found the first colony. He subsequently left a group of them under the direction of Ralph Lane to build fortifications while he returned to England. But relations with the natives soon turned sour. When Sir Francis Drake and his men visited the colony on their way home from Florida, the first colonists took advantage of the opportunity and returned to England.
Undeterred, Grenville came back a short time later with two years’ worth of supplies and a smaller, more reliable group of settlers. Before returning to England, he gave the settlers strict instructions about establishing fortifications. It was this group of men who built what is now known as Fort Raleigh.
The appointed governor of the area, John White, came by boat in 1587 with a number of other colonists to further build the colony. He was undoubtedly shocked to find all the men missing and only one skeleton inhabiting the fort.
Despite the thousands of miles of ocean between him and Mother England and the many travel-weary wards in his care, the governor set about reestablishing the colony. White’s colonists were families who had a vested interest in making the settlement permanent, in order to build themselves a better life. Included was White’s own daughter, pregnant at the time with the now-famous Virginia Dare, the first English child born in the New World. Unfortunately, the colonists soon discovered they were unable to live off the land, which was much different from their native ground. The governor was thus forced to sail back to England for more provisions.
Mystery enters here. War was raging between England and Spain when White arrived home, and the Spanish Armada ensured that it wasn’t until 1590 that he was able to return to the colony. Sailing back into the familiar bay, he was once again shocked to find Fort Raleigh uninhabited. At the entrance, he discovered the word CROATOAN carved on a post, but there was no cross with it—the colonists’ agreed-upon signal of danger. Before he was able to search the nearby islands, Governor White was forced to return to England once more. To this day, no one knows what happened to the colonists of Roanoke Island. Theories abound as to their fate.
The earth embankments at Fort Raleigh, restored in 1950, are much as they were when the colonists lived on Roanoke Island. The Lindsay Warren Visitor Center exhibits relics from the era of Governor White and Virginia Dare and offers maps of the area, books on the Lost Colony, and a 17-minute film on the history of Roanoke Island. The Waterside Theatre, located on the grounds, is the home of The Lost Colony outdoor drama during the summer. The site is open daily from sunrise to sunset from June to the end of August; the hours during the rest of the year are 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. The park is closed on Christmas. Admission is free, though a fee is charged to see The Lost Colony. For more information, call 252-473-5772 or visit www.nps.gov/fora.
The Elizabethan Gardens, at 1411 National Park Drive (27954), are located adjacent to the Waterside Theatre in the heart of Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. Created in 1951 by the Garden Club of North Carolina, the 10.5-acre gardens are a memorial to America’s first English colonists. Designed by M. Umberto Innocenti and Richard Webel to bloom year-round, they feature plants native to the Outer Banks. Visitors enjoy an array of flowering shrubs, trees, plants, and herbs along the property’s winding paths. Among the several gardens here are the formal Queen’s Rose Garden (which features the “Lost Colony rose”), the Shakespearean Herb Garden, and the Great Lawn.
The centerpiece may well be the 15th-century Italian fountain, pool, and balustrade in the Sunken Garden, given by John Hay Whitney, a former ambassador to Great Britain. Visitors can stop here to smell the flowers and listen to the gurgling fountain.
Situated next to Roanoke Sound is a 16th-century gazebo made of daub siding and thatched roofing. This area is said to be where the English flag was first raised in the New World.
The gardens are open daily year-round except for Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas, and New Year’s. Extended hours are offered during the summer. Admission is charged for adults and children ages six to 17. For more information, call 252-473-3234 or visit www.elizabethangardens.org.
Like Fort Raleigh National Historic Site, Roanoke Island Festival Park is dedicated to re-creating the history of the early colonists. It’s located at 1 Festival Park (27954) on the 25-acre Ice Plant Island in Shallowbag Bay across from downtown Manteo.
Your first stop upon entering the visitor center will be the 8,500-square-foot Roanoke Adventure Museum, which features paintings, artifacts, relics, and interactive exhibits on the important figures and events in Roanoke Island’s history. One of the best exhibits is the Civil War cannon found underwater off the island; it was so well packed with firing material that the gunpowder was still dry, meaning that the cannon was still ready for action. A Native American village, a Civil War encampment, a pirate ship, a duck blind, and a 1950s general store are among the other exhibits. Children love the area where they can dress up in swashbuckling buccaneer and dainty m’lady costumes. Actors in period costumes trained in Elizabethan dialect are spread throughout the park to share stories of pioneering on Roanoke Island. Inquisitive children and adults can find out what it was like to survive in the hot, swampy, buggy conditions without any of the conveniences we depend upon today. The Native Americans’ story is shared as well. A 50-minute film entitled The Legend of Two-Path tells what the people already settled on Roanoke Island thought of the “settlers” who appeared in 1585. Outside the museum are several trails leading to different exhibits, including a settlement site featuring historically costumed soldiers who share what the settlers did for shelter, food, and protection.
The most impressive feature of Roanoke Island Festival Park is perhaps the 69-foot Elizabeth II. An authentic representation of the 16th-century Elizabeth, one of seven merchant ships used to sail to the colony, the Elizabeth II was built to commemorate the New World’s quadricentennial. Interpretive guides on the three-mast, “50-tunne” Elizabethan ship share stories of what it was like to cross the Atlantic and try to settle the New World.
During the summer, the famed University of North Carolina School of the Arts uses the park to stage special dance, theater, and musical performances and films by some of the art world’s up-and-coming stars. Past performances have included A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Cinderella, and the musical She Loves Me. Three performances are generally given each day. In June and July, the morning offering includes puppet shows and fairy and folk tales as part of the Children’s Series. The afternoon performance is often a concert of chamber or jazz music in the park’s art gallery. The evening performance—a dance recital, concert, or drama presented in the outdoor pavilion—is perhaps the highlight. Admission is free with admission to the park, though making a donation is a good way to ensure performances for the next year.
Roanoke Island Festival Park is open mid-February through December with the exception of Thanksgiving and Christmas. Hours vary seasonally. Admission is charged for adults and students; children age five and under are admitted free. For more information, call 252-475-1500 or visit www.roanokeisland.com.
Museums and Science Centers
The North Carolina Aquarium at Roanoke Island, at 374 Airport Road in Manteo (27954), is tucked away down a long, winding road off U.S. 64. It offers 68,000 square feet of freshwater and saltwater galleries. Creatures from North Carolina’s rivers, marshes, sounds, and reefs are all highlighted.
The first stop inside the aquarium is the open-air natural-habitat atrium. Lined with real trees and topped with a huge skylight, the habitat gives a sense of the North Carolina wetlands. Wood ducks, river otters, and alligators all inhabit this area. Mists spray throughout the atrium periodically to keep the “wetlands” wet.
The centerpiece of the aquarium is undoubtedly the 285,000-gallon “Graveyard of the Atlantic” ocean tank, the largest in the state. Inside are the skeletal remains of a 53-foot re-created USS Monitor shipwreck, a one-third-scale replica of the famed Civil War ship now lying off Cape Hatteras. Created by a team of movie-set designers in Wilmington, the replica is covered with fiberglass orange, pink, and yellow corals, sponges, and sea fans. The fish inside the tank sometimes confuse the replica with the real thing and try to take a nip out of it. The sharks gliding stealthily by the 35-foot-long, five-and-a-half-inch-thick viewing window steal the show. Custom-made in Japan and set into place with a crane, the window wraps overhead, so viewers gets a sense of actually being in the water with the ship, the sharks, and other ocean creatures.
The aquarium’s Discovery Gallery gives kids a chance to touch skates, rays, sea stars, crabs, urchins, and other invertebrates. Charts and graphics on the walls tell about the evolution and characteristics of each animal.
A theater, a gift shop, a shoreline boardwalk, and nature trails are also on the premises.
The aquarium is open daily year-round except for Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s. A modest fee is charged for adults; children five and under and Aquarium Society members are admitted free. For information, call 866-332-3475 or 252-473-3494 or visit www.ncaquariums.com/roanoke-island.
The North Carolina Maritime Museum on Roanoke Island, on the Manteo waterfront at 104 Fernando Street (27954), is a repository of information on the seafaring history and natural resources of the Outer Banks. During the summer, the museum offers educational programs on sailing and boat safety for children and adults. Visitors can also witness the art of boat restoration and construction at the George Washington Creef Boathouse, home to a working boat shop that relies on traditional boat-building and repair techniques. For information, call 252-475-1750 or visit www.ncmaritime.org/branches/roanoke_default.htm.
Nearby is the Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse, the Banks’ newest lighthouse, opened in 2004. It’s a replica of a screw pile lighthouse built in 1877 to light the way for boats in Croatan Sound. The lighthouse served as both a guide for sailors and a residence for the keeper, thus explaining why it looks more like a cottage built over the water than a traditional lighthouse. Sailors in the sound now rely on the lighthouse’s fourth-order Fresnel lens to light the night.
The museum and lighthouse operate on seasonal hours, so call ahead.
Downtown Manteo offers an array of browsing choices, from shops selling outdoor gear or local artwork to a unique independently owned bookstore. It’s easy to spend a few leisurely hours wandering the shops and soaking up the culture. One of the best times to do this is during the town’s “First Friday” events—held, as the name implies, on the first Friday of every month. Visitors can also listen to live music and enjoy a candlelight walking tour on these Fridays.
Island Produce, at 1 Patty Lane in Manteo (27954), offers a variety of local produce, homemade jams, relishes, pickles, honey, and roasted peanuts. This is the place to stock up on fresh, healthy food on your way to the Outer Banks. For information, call 252-473-4267 or visit www.ncbeaches.com/OuterBanks/Manteo/Shopping/FruitVegetableStands/IslandProduce.
Recreation
Downeast Rover, at 112 Musket Lane in Manteo (27954), is a reproduction of a 19th-century topsail schooner berthed on the waterfront adjacent to Roanoke Island Festival Park. The Rover offers daytime and sunset cruises that can accommodate up to 29 guests. Sailors aboard the 55-foot boat see Roanoke Island from a completely different perspective and get a close look at the local wildlife, including dolphins, ospreys, and herons. Below decks are accommodations for up to six adult passengers, for those who choose to charter the Rover for longer trips. Be sure to check availability, prices, and departure times for your preferred date. Call 866-724-5629 or 252-473-4866 or visit www.downeastrover.com.
Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge is located on Milltail Road off U.S. 64/264 in the Dare County mainland community of East Lake (27953). The refuge encompasses more than 150,000 acres of wetland separating the mainland from the Outer Banks. The Alligator River—actually a small sound—is part of the larger Albemarle Sound, one of the most important waterways in the state. Snaking from Alligator Lake in the Dismal Swamp to Albemarle Sound, the Alligator River is said to have received its name from the area’s first settlers, who encountered quite a few of those stealthy, beady-eyed creatures. Little did the pioneers know that they were lucky—or unlucky, as the case may be—to have stumbled into the northernmost habitat of the American alligator. Wildlife specialists say the alligators in the Alligator River are smaller than their counterparts in Florida and Georgia, but that fact probably wouldn’t have provided much comfort to the first men and women crossing these waters.
The refuge is also home to black bears, bobcats, bald eagles, white-tailed deer, and red wolves. The red wolf faced extinction as recently as 1996, but the numbers are growing today, thanks to a reintroduction project. All along the highway in the refuge, you’ll see red wolf crossing signs, so take care to share the road with these shy creatures.
Admission to the refuge is free. Visitors can take advantage of the hiking and wildlife trails, the observation platforms, the fishing areas, and the wildlife drive for cars and bikes. Kayaking and canoeing are permitted; a guided canoe tour is available for a fee. The refuge is open daily year-round during daylight hours except for federal holidays. For information, visit www.alligatorriver.fws.gov. or call 252-4731131.
Kitty Hawk Sports offers kayak ecotours led by trained guides. One of the best tours starts in Manteo and heads through Shallowbag Bay into the maritime forest. Kayakers learn useful information about local flora and fauna—like how to distinguish between bug-repellent plants and poison ivy. Call 252-441-6800 or visit www.kittyhawksports.com for more information.
Marinas line the Outer Banks. Those along Roanoke Island include Manteo Waterfront Marina, also known as Dough’s Creek (252-473-3320), Pirate’s Cove Marina (252-473-3906), Salty Dawg Marina (252-473-3405), and Shallowbag Bay Marina (252-473-4946) in Manteo and Thicket Lump Marina (252-473-4500) and Broad Creek Fishing Center & Marina (252-473-9991) in Wanchese.
Seasonal Events
The Lost Colony is headquartered at 1409 National Drive in Manteo (27954). First performed in 1937, this is the oldest outdoor drama in the United States. Over 4 million theatergoers have witnessed the passion and mystery surrounding the British colonists lost to the wilderness of Roanoke Island. Performed on the grounds of Fort Raleigh National Historic Site at the Waterside Theatre overlooking Roanoke Sound, The Lost Colony tells the story of Governor John White; his daughter, Eleanor Dare; her daughter, Virginia Dare, the first English child born in America; and the native Algonquin Indians. The production includes dance, song, fighting, and fireworks. Guests witness how Sir Walter Raleigh convinced Queen Elizabeth I to support a settlement in the New World, only to be denied the chance to help build the colony; how the colonists became friends with the natives but later lost their allegiance; and how they came to the conclusion they could no longer survive at Fort Raleigh. Of course, you’ll have to attend a performance to see what Pulitzer Prize–winning playwright Paul Green imagined to be the fate of the colonists.
If you’re planning an evening at the Waterside Theatre, buy your tickets in advance and bring a supply of bug repellent. If you come prepared, you’ll be justly rewarded with a tale of love, loss, and heroic courage.
The Lost Colony is performed Monday through Saturday at 8 P.M. from late May to late August. Children 11 and under accompanied by a paying adult are admitted free on Fridays and Mondays and for half price on Saturdays. Refunds are not given except in case of bad weather; performances are never canceled before 8:30 P.M. For more information, call 252-473-3414 or visit www.thelostcolony.org.
During summer, the Elizabethan Gardens and Roanoke Island Festival Park host a variety of plays in addition to The Lost Colony.
The several seasonal festivals on Roanoke Island are not to be missed.
The Dare Day Festival is held annually the first Saturday in June in downtown Manteo. It honors the memory of Virginia Dare and the other Lost Colonists. The festival features all-day entertainment, arts and crafts, food, dance, and live music. Call 252-475-5629 for more information.
The Herbert Hoover Birthday Celebration, held on August 10 and sponsored by Manteo Booksellers, honors our nation’s 31st president. This is a quirky way to enjoy a day of book signings, live music, trivia, a “Herbie” shrine, and a “Herbert & Sherbet” birthday cake. Visit www.manteobooksellers.com or call 866-473-1222 or 252-473-1221 for more information.
Places to Stay
Roanoke Island is noted for its unique inns and bed-and-breakfasts. If you’re looking for the tried-and-true chains, you may need to try up the road in Nags Head or Kitty Hawk. Rates vary seasonally.
Resorts, Hotels, and Motels
Elizabethan Inn. Expensive/Moderate/Inexpensive. 814 U.S. 64 in Manteo, 27954 (800-346-2466 or 252-473-2101; www.elizabethaninn.com). This 78-room, two-efficiency Tudor-style motel, located close to all of Roanoke Island’s cultural offerings, boasts a wide range of amenities. Guests can enjoy an indoor heated pool, an outdoor pool, a whirlpool, a sauna, and a well-equipped gym. Complimentary bicycles are available for trips to the Manteo waterfront, Roanoke Island Festival Park, the North Carolina Aquarium, and Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. Breakfast is offered at the inn’s Virginia Dare Restaurant. Pets are welcome in some of the rooms.
Duke of Dare Motor Lodge. Moderate/Inexpensive. 100 South Virginia Dare Road in Manteo, 27954 (252-473-2175). This no-frills 57-room motel offers the basics for a reasonable price. The Duke of Dare has been owned and operated by the same family for over 25 years. It features televisions, phones, and an outdoor pool.
Inns and Bed-and-Breakfasts
The Cameron House Inn. Deluxe. 300 Budleigh Street in Manteo, 27954 (800-279-8178 or 252-473-6596; www.cameronhouseinn.com). This restored 1919 Arts and Crafts–style bungalow features seven guest rooms with plush bedding, Oriental carpets, and individual bathrooms. The main inn’s wraparound porch is the perfect place to read a book, take in the breeze off the water, and enjoy a quiet afternoon lazing in the restored 50-year-old porch swing. During winter, guests can enjoy rocking by the back porch’s outdoor fireplace.
The White Doe Inn Bed-and-Breakfast. Deluxe. 319 Sir Walter Raleigh Street in Manteo, 27954 (800-473-6091 or 252-473-9851; www.whitedoeinn.com). Built in 1898 as the Theodore Meekins House and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1982, The White Doe is now a Three Diamond, three-story, eight-room Queen Anne–style inn. Each room is individually decorated with antiques and features amenities ranging from four-poster beds to private whirlpools to stained-glass windows to chandeliers. A complimentary four-course gourmet breakfast, afternoon tea, and bicycles are some of the extras. No stay would be complete without partaking of the inn’s luxurious spa services, provided in the privacy of guests’ own rooms.
Roanoke Island Inn. Deluxe/Expensive. 305 Fernando Street in Manteo, 27954 (877-473-5511 or 252-473-5511; www.roanokeislandinn.com). Built in the 1860s for the current innkeeper’s great-great-grandmother, the Roanoke Island Inn grew steadily throughout the 20th century to accommodate the growing family and the guests who stayed here. This waterfront inn offers a bungalow and eight guest rooms, most of which have a view of the bay. Continental breakfast and access to the innkeeper’s pantry ensure that guests are well fed. The inn is generally open from April to late October, though the owners charmingly advertise their season as ranging from “Easter ’til we’re tired.” If you’re looking for a more secluded hideaway, ask the innkeepers about their Island Camp, a lovely house situated alone on an island south of the causeway. Guests must provide their own transportation by boat; a number of restaurants are located within boating distance.
Tranquil House Inn. Deluxe/Expensive. 405 Queen Elizabeth Street in Manteo, 27954 (800-458-7069 or 252-473-1404; www.tranquilinn.com). Guests staying here enjoy being in the middle of everything. The Tranquil House is located on the Shallowbag Bay waterfront in downtown Manteo. The majority of its 25 individually decorated rooms feature a view of the water. This turn-of-the-20th-century reproduction offers suites with sitting rooms, an upstairs porch with rocking chairs, evening wine and cheese, and complimentary continental breakfast. One of the best restaurants on the Outer Banks, 1587, sits conveniently next door.
Island House of Wanchese. Expensive/Moderate. 104 Old Wharf Road in Wanchese, 27981 (252-473-5619; www.islandhouse-bb.com). Located away from the hustle and bustle of Manteo in the quiet fishing village of Wanchese, this is the place to truly get away from it all. The three rooms and one suite have private baths, antique furnishings, Oriental rugs, televisions, VCRs, DVD players, and radios. Guests enjoy turn-down service at night and are welcomed in the morning with a home-cooked, Southern-style buffet breakfast. The guest pantry is open 24 hours a day. A screened porch, beach chairs, beach towels, beach showers, bicycles, and a freezer for your catch all make this seem like a home away from home. The inn is open year-round.
Scarborough House Inn. Moderate/Inexpensive. 323 Fernando Street in Manteo, 27954 (252-473-3849; www.scarboroughhouseinn.com). The keepers of this inn are as local as they come. The Scarboroughs boast lineages on both sides extending as far back as pre–Revolutionary War times. The photos of ancestors decorating the walls of the five rooms and the two-story guest house chronicle the story of Roanoke Island and the Outer Banks for close to a century. The rooms include antique beds covered with handmade spreads, gleaming pine floors, and modern amenities like refrigerators, microwaves, coffee makers, and televisions. Continental breakfast is included in the price of the stay.
Places to Eat
Though you won’t find as many restaurants on Roanoke Island as on the northern Banks, you’ll appreciate the good variety and tasty food. As you might expect, fresh seafood is available at just about every restaurant. Those who don’t care for seafood will be able to find plenty to satisfy them as well.
1587. Expensive. 405 Queen Elizabeth Avenue in Manteo, 27954 (252-4731587; www.1587.com). Named for the year the Lost Colonists arrived on Roanoke Island, this restaurant is one of the most sophisticated on the Banks. The cuisine at 1587 changes seasonally to reflect the local bounty. The chefs blend herbs grown in the restaurant’s own garden with free-range chicken, certified Angus beef, and seafood from the Atlantic to create their unique dishes. Guests can enjoy the breeze off Shallowbag Bay and listen to the water lapping against the docks as they enjoy their evening meal. Dinner is served nightly year-round.
Stripers Bar and Grille. Expensive/Moderate. 1122 South Bay Club Drive in Manteo, 27954 (252-472-2222; www.stripersbarandgrille.com). Tucked away in Shallowbag Bay Marina, Stripers offers stunning views of the bay and some of the best seafood on the coast. Dinner is served daily. Lunch is offered on Saturday and brunch on Sunday.
Full Moon Café. Moderate. 208 Queen Elizabeth Avenue in Manteo, 27954 (252473-6666; www.thefullmooncafe.com). Full Moon Café, located in a brick building under Manteo’s clock tower, offers standard fare—delicious homemade salads, wraps, burgers, and seafood—in addition to an eclectic blend of world cuisines ranging from baked Brie to eggplant Napoleon. This is a terrific place to fill up without breaking the bank. Lunch and dinner are served daily.
Hurricane Mo’s Restaurant and Raw Bar. Moderate. At Pirate’s Cove Marina on the Manteo–Nags Head Causeway, 27954 (252-473-2266). Located at the point where Roanoke Island and Nags Head meet, this casual restaurant is a wonderful place to get a plate of oysters on the half shell and a cold beer and watch the boats come in. Fishermen and families alike are welcome here, and the service is gracious and helpful. Among the favorites are the generous seafood platters and the “Chicken Marsala Florentine” with spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, and mushrooms. Lunch and dinner are served daily during peak season.
Bodie Island provides a glimpse into what the Outer Banks looked like long before tourists arrived, when the only people inhabiting the area were the lighthouse keepers. It is a unique place, to say the least.
Bodie Island is really just the southern tip of the northern Banks and not an island at all. It was an island originally, but the inlets that surrounded it have filled in. The pronunciation of the name is also a little quirky. I’ve heard many lifelong North Carolinians pronounce it “Bo-dee,” although the correct way of saying the name is “Body.” As with every place on the Outer Banks, several explanations exist as to how the island was named. Some say the name honors the vast number of bodies that washed ashore from ships wrecked in the Graveyard of the Atlantic. Others a little less melodramatic claim it comes from the island’s being a body of land. Still others say Bodie Island was named after a now-unknown person who helped build the lighthouse or was stationed there.
Established in 1953, Cape Hatteras National Seashore was the first national seashore in the country. It begins on Bodie Island and extends 75 miles through Hatteras and Ocracoke islands, covering over 30,000 acres. Some of the country’s best fishing and surfing are found in the national seashore.
JUST THE FACTS
Driving south from the northern Banks, take either U.S. 158 (Virginia Dare Trail) or N.C. 12 (the Beach Road). From Roanoke Island, take U.S. 64/264 East until you reach Whalebone Junction, then head south down N.C. 12.
Bodie Island has no airport. Charters into the area will need to land at the Dare Country Regional Airport on Roanoke Island.
Your best bet for gathering information is the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau (877-629-4386 or 252-473-2138; www.outerbanks.org), located at One Visitors Center Circle off U.S. 64/264 in Manteo (27954).
Things to Do
Historic Places, Gardens, and Tours
Encircled by its horizontal black and white bands, the Bodie Island Lighthouse has protected its small section of the coast since 1847. History has not always been kind to the lighthouse, though. Only 12 years after its creation, it was torn down and rebuilt because of improper construction. Two years later, in 1862, Confederate troops blew up the lighthouse so the Union wouldn’t be able to use it. The lighthouse was rebuilt for the second (and so far last) time in 1871 at the staggering cost to Reconstruction North Carolina of $140,000. Shortly after it was reactivated, the lighthouse proved it was still on a bad-luck streak when a flock of wild geese flew into the lantern and damaged the lens.
Now long repaired, the 156-foot Bodie Island Lighthouse still flashes its 160,000-candlepower beacon 19 miles into the dark night over the Atlantic Ocean. The lighthouse is not open for climbing, but the keeper’s quarters have been restored and now serve as a museum, gift shop, and visitor center for Cape Hatteras National Seashore. A nature trail winds through the marsh surrounding the lighthouse.
No admission fee is charged. The lighthouse grounds are open year-round with the exception of Christmas; hours are seasonal, so be sure to phone ahead. For more information, visit www.nps.gov/caha/bodie-island-light-station.htm or call 252-441-5711.
Recreation
Almost directly across N.C. 12 from the entrance to the Bodie Island Lighthouse is one of the best beaches on the Outer Banks, Coquina Beach. Named for the tiny white shells scattered all over, Coquina offers good swimming and surf fishing. Do take note that no lifeguard is on duty, so use common sense while visiting here.
Coquina Beach is rich in history. The Laura A. Barnes, built in 1918, was one of the last schooners constructed in the United States. It lies not far from where it grounded after a nor’easter blew it ashore in 1921. The crew survived thanks to the heroic actions of the men at the nearby lifesaving station. In 1973, the National Park Service moved the remains of the ship to their present location.
During World War II, this area came to be known as Torpedo Junction because the United States suffered such heavy losses to German submarines. America also made one of its greatest comebacks at this place, though, when it sank a German U-boat for the first time. The remains of that submarine now lie 15 miles offshore.
Oregon Inlet Fishing Center and Full-Service Marina, located just down N.C. 12 at the north end of the Herbert C. Bonner Bridge, is home to the largest and most modern fishing fleet on the East Coast. Serious fishermen from around the world come to this marina to charter boats for Gulf Stream fishing. Facilities include a general store, boat ramps and docks, and areas to clean your catch. If you’re driving past in late afternoon, be sure to stop to see the boats come in with their daily catch of sea bass, mullet, bluefish, billfish, and even shark. The National Park Service administers a boat-launch facility adjacent to the marina that offers ample free parking. For more information, call 800-272-5199 or 252-441-6301 or visit www.fishingoregoninlet.com.
Outer Banks Fishing Pier, at 8901 Old Oregon Inlet Road in Nags Head (27959), is the closest pier to Oregon Inlet. The 600-foot structure, operated by Fishing Unlimited, includes a tackle shop, a grill, and an arcade. For more information, call 252-441-5740 or visit http://fishingunlimited.net/OuterBanksPier.html.
The National Park Service operates the only place to stay on Bodie Island, the Oregon Inlet Campground. Here, you’ll find 120 sites serving tents, trailers, and motor homes with only the basics—cold showers, toilets, picnic tables, potable water, and grills. No utility connections are offered, but the reasonable price makes up for the no-frills accommodations. The campground is open from mid-April to mid-October. Availability is on a first-come, first-served basis, though reservations for groups of seven or more may be made by calling 252-441-7425, extension 230. The National Park Service recommends that campers using tents bring longer-than-normal tent stakes, due to the shifting sands and winds. Insect netting and bug spray are good ideas, too. For more information, call 252-473-2111 or visit www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/campgrounds.htm.
The largest island of the Outer Banks, Hatteras has a heritage rich in maritime history and lore. Even the trip between Bodie Island and Hatteras Island is a history lesson. Going from one island to the next, you’ll cross Oregon Inlet, a body of water that came into existence in 1846 after a large storm blew a channel open. The Oregon, the first ship to sail through this passageway, gave the inlet its name. Oregon Inlet is now the main entrance to Pamlico Sound. The three-mile Herbert C. Bonner Bridge connects the two islands. The inlet requires constant dredging, as sand is perpetually deposited along the stone pillars of the bridge.
Once on Hatteras Island, you’ll visit several small towns connected by N.C. 12: Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, Avon, Buxton, Frisco, and Hatteras. Each has a story and flavor all its own.
The most recognized symbol of the island is the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. Threatened by the same winds and tides that created Oregon Inlet, the lighthouse underwent a monumental move in 1999 to preserve it from the forces of nature.
While hazardous to lighthouses, the waves are a boon to surfers. Hatteras Island is one of the best spots on the East Coast to catch a wave.
JUST THE FACTS
Driving south from the northern Banks, take either U.S. 158 (Virginia Dare Trail) or N.C. 12 (the Beach Road). From Roanoke Island, take U.S. 64/264 East to Whalebone Junction, then go south on N.C. 12.
Hatteras Island has no airport, so charters will need to land at the Dare Country Regional Airport on Roanoke Island.
The best place to turn for information is the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau (877-629-4386 or 252-473-2138; www.outerbanks.org), located at One Visitors Center Circle off U.S. 64/264 in Manteo (27954).
Things to Do
Historic Places, Gardens, and Tours
Chicamacomico Life Saving Station, at 23645 N.C. 12 in Rodanthe (27968), tells the story of surfmen on Hatteras. In 1873, the United States Life Saving Service was established by Congress to assist poor souls caught in storms or grounded by sand bars and reefs. The treacherous Graveyard of the Atlantic was one of the areas most in need of such service. Chicamacomico was among the stations constructed at seven-mile intervals along this portion of the North Carolina coast. Crews patrolled the beaches by foot and on horseback. They used Lyle guns to fire rescue lines to sinking ships. At other times, they had to row out to rescue endangered crews. A bigger, improved Chicamacomico station was built in 1911.
The most famous rescue by the men at Chicamacomico occurred in 1918, when the English tanker Mirlo was torpedoed by a German U-boat. Captain John Allen Midgett, Jr., and his crew of five braved the surf and flames to save 47 of the 57 men aboard the ship. They were awarded medals by the British government in 1921 and were later recognized by the United States government.
Chicamacomico Life Saving Station now serves as a museum. Visitors enjoy the shipwreck exhibit with actual artifacts from, and pieces of, the wrecks themselves. Lifesaving equipment is also on display. On Thursdays in summer, active-duty Coast Guard personnel perform a beach apparatus drill, a demonstration of the techniques used to rescue stranded sailors. The station is open Monday through Friday from noon to 5 P.M. Easter to Thanksgiving. The grounds are open year-round. For information, call 252-987-1552 or visit www.chicamacomico.net.
The United States Weather Bureau Station, located at the corner of Saxon Cut and Kohler roads in Hatteras Village, was one of 11 dedicated weather bureaus built at the turn of the 20th century. Forecasting was crucial, due to the severe weather in the area and the large number of ships that passed through the waters offshore. The National Park Service has restored the building using the original plans, so its appearance—including the yellow exterior—is authentic. In addition to the exhibits of weather instruments, the station features a welcome center operated by the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau. For more information, call 252-986-2203 or visit www.nps.gov/caha/historyculture/weatherbureau.htm.
Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is located at 46379 N.C. 12 at Cape Point in Buxton (27920). This 208-foot lighthouse is the tallest and perhaps the most famous in the United States. Over the years, it has come to be the unofficial emblem of the Outer Banks.
Like the other lighthouses along the Banks, the Cape Hatteras Light has a long and complicated history. Built in 1803 over a mile from the shoreline, the first version was poorly constructed and gave out a weak signal to passing ships. The lighthouse was damaged by Union naval shells in 1861. Shortly thereafter, the Confederate army removed its lamp altogether.
The lighthouse was rebuilt in 1870 more than 1,000 yards from the sea. It rested on a floating foundation this time, meaning that it sat on yellow pine timbers in fresh water on compacted sand, with a brick-and-granite foundation on top. As long as the sands held steady and no salt water seeped into the foundation, the lighthouse was safe. But what the engineers did not account for was that Hatteras Island itself was moving westward. The federal government abandoned the lighthouse in 1935 due to the constant erosion. The following year, it set up a temporary skeletal steel light tower. Once the 1870 lighthouse was abandoned, vandals damaged its lens.
It wasn’t until 1950 that the light was moved back to the 1870 lighthouse, after extensive repairs. But beach erosion continued. In 1980, a storm washed away the foundation of the original 1803 lighthouse, which until then had stood more than 600 feet from the shore. That storm reinforced the idea that something had to be done to save the existing lighthouse. In 1989, after much debate, the National Park Service decided to move the aged structure.
Nearly a decade later, the move was finally approved by Congress. The 1870 lighthouse closed its doors on November 22, 1998, as the National Park Service readied for the move. Engineers lifted the lighthouse from its foundation, sunk eight feet deep into the sand. They moved it 2,900 feet and reanchored it in a safer spot, leaving it about the same distance from the sea as back in 1870. After being closed for 550 days, the lighthouse reopened for visitors on May 26, 2000. The beam again lights the night sky to a distance of 20 miles offshore.
Also on the grounds are the double keepers’ quarters, which house a museum and visitor center, the principal keeper’s quarters, and the Hatteras Island Visitor Center. Admission to the grounds is free, though a fee is charged to climb the lighthouse. The grounds are traditionally open year-round from 9 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. except for Christmas; hours are extended in the summer. The lighthouse is open for climbing from Easter weekend to Columbus Day weekend, weather permitting. Keep in mind that the climb is equivalent to trekking up a 12-story building—without air conditioning. For more information, call 252-473-2111 or 252-995-4474 or visit www.nps.gov/caha.
Museums and exhibits where visitors can learn about the life of the early colonists dot the Outer Banks. But the Frisco Native American Museum and Natural History Center, at 53536 N.C. 12 in Frisco (27936), is one of the few places to learn about the people who inhabited the area hundreds of years before the English arrived. Founded and operated by Carl and Joyce Bornfriend, this nonprofit educational foundation displays collections of authentic Native American artifacts and explores the origins of different tribes, their tools, their religions, and their ways of surviving. Also on the grounds are nature trails, a pavilion, a gift shop, and a bookstore. The annual Inter-Tribal PowWow, held in the spring, features dancers and drummers from all over the country. The museum is open year-round Tuesday through Sunday from 11 A.M. to 5 P.M. and Monday by appointment. A nominal admission fee is charged. For information, call 252-995-4440 or visit www.nativeamericanmuseum.org.
Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum, at 59200 Museum Drive in Hatteras (27943), is dedicated to the preservation of maritime history and the shipwrecks of the Outer Banks from the mid-1500s to today. More than 1,500 ships, including Civil War blockade runners and German U-boats, have sunk off the treacherous North Carolina coast since settlement efforts began over 400 years ago. The museum chronicles the stories of these ill-fated ships—along with those of such vessels as Blackbeard’s Adventure, which safely navigated the area’s sand bars and shoals—through artifacts, models, and exhibits. It features artifacts from the Carroll A. Deering, the legendary ghost ship of the Diamond Shoals, a five-mast schooner whose crew vanished without a trace in January 1921. The museum offers regular author appearances and book signings during the summer as part of its heritage series, which is free and open to the public. The hours are subject to change, so call ahead. Admission is free, but donations are accepted. For more information, call 252-986-2996 or visit www.graveyardoftheatlantic.com.
Recreation
Though the sportfishing and surfing are legendary here, visitors should use common sense while exploring the waters of the island, as the weather can change at a moment’s notice. Riptides and strong currents can surprise even the hardiest swimmers.
For fishermen, the places to go include Hatteras Island Fishing Pier (252-987-2323; www.hatterasislandresort.com) in Rodanthe, Avon Golf and Fishing Pier (252-995-5480; www.avonpier.com) in Avon, and Cape Hatteras Fishing Pier (252-986-2533) in Frisco. All offer about the same amenities, including bait, tackle, ice, and snacks. They are open seasonally.
For those interested in Gulf Stream fishing, several marinas in Hatteras offer charter boats. These include Hatteras Landing Marina (800-551-8478 or 252-986-2077; www.hatteraslanding.com), Hatteras Harbor Marina (800-676-4939 or 252-986-2166; www.hatterasharbor.com), Oden’s Dock (888-544-8115 or 252-986-2555; www.odensdock.com), and Teach’s Lair Marina (888-868-2460 or 252-986-2460; www.teachslair.com).
Surfers, windsurfers, and kite boarders can turn to Hatteras Island Sail Shop (252-987-2292; www.hiss-waves.com) in Waves, Fox Watersports (252-995-4372) in Buxton, and Carolina Outdoors (252-986-1446) in Hatteras. Canadian Hole in Pamlico Sound has been called “the Windsurfing Capital of the East Coast,” thanks to its calm waters and steady breezes.
Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge is located at the northern tip of Hatteras Island between Oregon Inlet and Rodanthe; the visitor center is just off N.C. 12 five miles south of the Bonner Bridge. The refuge is known as a birder’s paradise, as it is the feeding and resting area for more than 365 species of migratory birds. Established in 1937 by an act of Congress, the refuge covers 5,834 acres of Hatteras Island and 25,700 acres of Pamlico Sound. No migratory waterfowl hunting is allowed here, but visitors may canoe, kayak, surf, fish, meander the beaches, and participate in interpretive programs.
The name Pea Island comes from the acres of “dune peas” covering the refuge. These beans, packed with protein, are a source of energy for the birds on their long flights. Birds spotted here include piping plovers, peregrine falcons, Canada and snow geese, tundra swans, herons, egrets, ibises, bald eagles, and over 25 species of ducks. Observation decks and nature trails enable visitors to view all the different winged visitors. Pea Island is also home to river otters, muskrats, rabbits, and raccoons. In addition, loggerhead turtles use the refuge as their northernmost nesting ground. The temperature at which the eggs incubate determines the sex of loggerheads; this northern nesting ground produces many members of the male loggerhead population.
The refuge’s visitor center offers wildlife exhibits and a gift store; it is open daily from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. in the summer and from 9 A.M. to 4 P.M. the rest of the year. The refuge is administered by Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge. Admission is free. For more information, call 252-473-1131 or visit www.peaisland.fws.gov.
Buxton Woods Reserve is a 1,725-acre maritime forest, the largest in North Carolina. It features interdune ponds, live oak and red cedar forests, and freshwater marshes that are home to a variety of water-loving plants, including ferns, saw grass, cattails, and wild rice. Over 135 species of migratory birds make this a stopping place on their long annual journeys. Visitors can enjoy a day of hiking, birding, and picnicking. The reserve is located between Cape Hatteras National Seashore and N.C. 12 in Buxton. The trails may be accessed from the intersection of N.C. 12 and Old Doctor’s Road. For more information, call 252-995-4474 or visit www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/northcarolina/preserves/art5593.html.
Places to Stay
It used to be that the majority of hostelries on Hatteras Island were no-frills hotels and motels that catered to fishermen and those on a budget. Those places are still here, but as the area’s popularity has surged, so have the options in accommodations. Now, road-weary travelers can choose from several bed-and-breakfasts and even a resort. Everyone visiting Hatteras Island should be able to find a place to suit their needs and tastes.
Resorts, Hotels, and Motels
Comfort Inn—Hatteras Island. Deluxe. 46745 N.C. 12 in Buxton, 27920 (877-424-6423 or 252-995-6100; www.outerbankscomfortinn.com). This is one of the few chain hotels on Hatteras Island.
Hatteras Landing. Deluxe/Expensive. N.C. 12 next to the ferry landing in Hatteras (866-348-8819; www.hatteraslanding.com). This resort offers 10 rooftop residences ranging in size from 1,400 to 2,200 square feet, ample room for a family to spread out. Guests feel like they’re staying in a home, thanks to the granite counter-tops, maple cabinets, and state-of-the-art appliances. The residences sit atop shops and restaurants. When not downstairs shopping or visiting the local bakery, guests can enjoy the large decks with nearly 360-degree views of the ocean and sound. The resort will assist with reservations for charter boats, scooters, bikes, and beach equipment.
Avon Motel. Moderate. 40279 Younce Road in Avon, 27915 (252-995-5774; www.avonmotel.com). This ocean-side motel has been family owned and operated since 1954. Its 45 units include the basics, like air conditioning, phones, and televisions; some have fully equipped kitchens. A guest laundry and a lighted fish-cleaning station are available. The motel is open from March to December.
Cape Hatteras Motel. Moderate. 46556 N.C. 12 in Buxton, 27920 (800-995-0711 or 252-995-5611; www.capehatterasmotel.com). Offering 11 rooms, two efficiencies, and 21 apartments, this motel has much to choose from. All rooms have a television, a microwave, a small refrigerator, and a coffee maker. Fully equipped kitchens and linens are provided in the efficiencies and apartments. All guests have access to a pool, a Jacuzzi, and a freezer for the day’s catch. This motel is one of the closest accommodations to Canadian Hole and is only a 20-minute walk from the lighthouse. It is open year-round.
Hatteras Harbor Marina & Efficiencies. Moderate. 58058 N.C. 12 in Hatteras, 27943 (800-676-4939; www.hatterasharbor.com/efficiencies.html). Hatteras Harbor’s five one-bedroom efficiencies are located on the second floor of a marina building, making this the perfect place for sincere fishermen. Some rooms can accommodate up to five people and include full kitchens with linens and dishes. Each room has a balcony, from which guests can enjoy watching the boats come in and the sunset over the sound.
Lighthouse View Motel and Cottages. Moderate. 46677 N.C. 12 in Buxton, 27920 (800-225-7651 or 252-995-5680; www.lighthouseview.com). Guests here are almost at the foot of the lighthouse. This large complex offers over 85 units ranging from single rooms to efficiencies and villas. The amenities include coffee makers, microwaves, refrigerators, cable television, private porches and decks, washers and dryers, a pool, and a hot tub.
Sea Gull Motel. Moderate. 56883 N.C. 12 in Hatteras, 27943 (252-986-2550; www.seagullhatteras.com). This motel, located within a mile of Hatteras Fishing Center, offers 45 oceanfront apartments and efficiencies, all with televisions, phones, refrigerators, coffee makers, and microwaves. It also has cottages for rent. A fish-cleaning area and outdoor showers are provided for fishermen. Kids love the outdoor pool and the private beach. The motel is open March through November.
Inns and Bed-and-Breakfasts
The Inn on Pamlico Sound. Deluxe/Expensive. 49684 N.C. 12 in Buxton, 27920 (866-995-7030 or 252-995-7030; www.innonpamlicosound.com). The dozen suites in this lovely inn offer stunning views of the sound and the innkeepers’ well-tended garden; many of the rooms are in fact named after the flowers growing there. All suites offer king- or queen-sized beds, private baths, phones, TVs with DVD/VCR players, and high-speed Internet connections. Many have whirlpool tubs as well. The innkeepers pride themselves on the sumptuous homemade three-course breakfasts served here, which include selections such as Belgian waffles and raspberry-stuffed French toast. In the afternoons, guests can treat themselves to fresh baked goods and beverages. The inn features a 14-seat home theater. Guests can also borrow kayaks and bicycles.
Cape Hatteras Bed-and-Breakfast. Expensive/Moderate. 46223 Old Lighthouse Road in Buxton, 27920 (800-252-3316 or 252-995-3002; www.capehatterasbandb.com). The address lets you in on how close this bed-and-breakfast is to the lighthouse. It is only 500 feet from the ocean as well. Its seven rooms and two suites include basic amenities like private baths, refrigerators, and cable television. Guests can also take advantage of the inn’s sun deck, surfboard and sailboard storage, bicycles, beach chairs, coolers, and beach bags. A hearty breakfast is served each morning. The inn is open from April to December.
Places to Eat
You’ll discover a surprising number of restaurants on Hatteras Island. Most are located on the sound side near the lighthouse. You’ll find everything here, from gourmet fare to a quick bite on the run. Most people are also surprised and pleased at the lack of chain eateries.
Sandbar & Grille. Expensive. 49250 N.C. 12 in Buxton, 27920 (252-995-3413; www.sandbarandgrille.com). This sound-side restaurant is a favorite among locals. Its second-floor dining room and deck provide great views of Pamlico Sound. It offers a variety of steaks, seafood choices, pasta dishes, soups, salads, and sandwiches. In addition to food, you’ll find live music and karaoke here, as well as a large game room downstairs to keep the children entertained. The restaurant opened in Hatteras Village in 1997 but was blown north to Buxton by Hurricane Isabel in September 2003. It is open for lunch and dinner daily in summer.
The Breakwater Restaurant. Expensive/Moderate. N.C. 12 at Oden’s Dock in Hatteras, 27943 (www.odensdock.com; 252-986-2733). The second-story dining room, deck, and bar of this restaurant overlook Pamlico Sound, affording great views of the sunset and of boats on their way to dock for the evening. The specialties include seafood, prime rib, veal, and pasta. Just try not to fill up on the freshly baked bread and appetizers before your meal! Dinner is served Thursday through Monday from March to December.
The Dolphin Den. Moderate. 40126 N.C. 12 in Avon, 27915 (252-995-7717; www.dolphinrestaurant.com). If you’re looking for good North Carolina seafood, this is an excellent place to try. From traditional fried seafood platters to soft-shell crab sandwiches, The Dolphin Den revels in its prime location by the ocean. Angus steaks, pasta dishes, and burgers are offered as well. In addition, the restaurant has a smoker for ribs and chicken wings. Lunch and dinner are served daily.
Hatteras Harbor Deli. Moderate. 58058 N.C. 12 in Hatteras, 27943 (252-9862500; www.hatterasharbor.com/deli.html). Located adjacent to Hatteras Harbor Marina, this eatery offers a menu heavy on seafood. Try the scallop burger or the shrimp pasta salad. The porch is a nice place to go in the afternoon to enjoy hand-dipped ice cream and to watch the boats come in. If you’re a fisherman, you’ll appreciate the deli’s prepacked breakfasts and lunches for those all-day trips; call a day ahead to request what you want. Breakfast and lunch are served daily year-round.
Orange Blossom Bakery & Café. Inexpensive. 47028 N.C. 12 in Buxton, 27920 (252-995-4109; http://orangeblossombakery.com). The Orange Blossom Bakery is famous for its “Apple Uglies,” the tastiest fritters you’ll ever experience. It also sells a variety of pastries, doughnuts, and breakfast sandwiches. Breakfast is served daily.
Theodore Stockton Midgett was the son of a commercial fisherman. His wife, Ersie, a short, red-haired, and jovial woman, was the daughter of Efrica and Jethro Anderson Midgett, who ran a business delivering food and dry goods that they brought to the island by sailboat. At the time Stockton and Ersie built the white house, Hatteras Island was still little more than a sparsely vegetated bar of sand. There were no paved roads, no running water, no electricity, no dunes. Construction on the Oregon Inlet bridge was forty years away. With no reliable weather forecasting system, the island’s residents stayed continually prepared for major blows….
… When the Civilian Conservation Corps set up a base camp in Rodanthe to headquarter their dune-building project, Stockton realized the crews of men needed a source of food and supplies. In 1936 he built a general store just west of the white house. At first he intended to turn the store’s operation over to his sons, Harold, Anderson, and Stockton, Jr. But the boys soon tired of staying inside to clerk and put up stock. Within two years the storekeeping had been delegated to Ersie, who was quick at figuring prices and balancing books. Stockton had other plans for his sons. In the fall of 1938 he went to Baltimore and came back with a franchise for the island’s first transportation system, a bus line from Hatteras village to Manteo….
… Harold and Anderson were determined to start running their new business as soon as they could. To help drive their first “bus”—a brand-new Ford station wagon—they recruited their young brother, Stocky. Once a day the station wagon made its way from Hatteras village to a ferry at Oregon Inlet, then on to Manteo and back. “We called the route one-O-one—a hundred and one different ways,” Stocky recalled. “At low tide we drove the beach. At high tide we drove the bank—the top of the beach, where the dunes are now—or the inside road, which consisted of several different tracks. There were always more people than we had room for; most of the time we’d put ’em on the running boards and in each other’s laps, and sometimes on the hood. If we got stuck, which we often did, everybody got out and pushed.”
The modern world had begun to discover Hatteras Island. In addition to the debut of public transportation, 1938 brought electricity to Hatteras village with the formation of a municipal cooperative. Electricity meant running water, indoor toilets, refrigeration. Slowly residents began to enjoy more luxuries and to have more contact with the outside world. Occasionally a hurricane or a strong wind blow would disrupt the island’s development, but storms were accepted as sporadic, shortlived dangers, like tornados in the Midwest. In 1944 a major hurricane pushed eight feet of water through Rodanthe. As Ersie, Joyce, and Anderson sat in the wood-frame house, a sudden blast of wind twisted the structure and sent it sliding twelve feet off its foundation. When the eye passed overhead, the family rushed to the home of a relative—only to have that house picked up beneath them by a surge and floated fifty yards, tossing and lurching in the waves. The receding tide left the relative’s house perched on top of Anderson’s brand-new Ford.
And still the pace of progress quickened. In 1948 the electric cooperative extended its service to the north section of Hatteras Island, and the state paved the first portion of Highway 12, a twenty-mile stretch between Hatteras village and Avon. In 1952 the surfaced road reached the length of the island. Although easier to drive than the beach, it was frequently overwashed or covered with sand, and the Midgett brothers’ vehicles continued to get stuck. One evening as Stocky was driving back from Manteo in a school bus loaded with people, he suddenly found himself driving through water. “The sea had backed up right behind the dunes, and one of the dunes broke through,” he says. “Water came rushing through like a funnel. I had on a pair of leather boots, so I climbed around on the fenders trying to get the hood up without getting my feet wet. By the time I dried off the engine, the front wheels of the bus had settled down through the highway. And before we could do anything else, the rear wheels fell through. The bus started settling down just like you’d put a casket in a grave.”
Passengers piled out of the vehicle and climbed a dune while Stockton started north, walking and swimming toward the nearest Coast Guard station. An hour later when he returned with help, the bus had disappeared. “When the tide fell, the highest point of the bus was the left front corner. It was about eighteen inches above the surface of the road. I called my brother to tell him I’d lost the bus. He wanted to know if I’d been off drinking someplace.”
The last of the barrier islands that make up the thin, long, wind-swept Outer Banks, Ocracoke has long been known for its seclusion. Over the centuries, it has been the haunt of wild ponies, pirates, and German U-boats. Tourism didn’t develop on the island until after World War II; it was only then that electricity, telephone lines, and paved roads were installed here. Even today, the 16-mile-long island is accessible only by ferry or plane. This seclusion and the slow pace of life attract people looking to get away from it all. Regulars have made Ocracoke their vacation destination for generations.
Ocracoke Village, the only town on the island, wraps around the beautiful Silver Lake. The island has only one major road; walking and biking are the ways most people get around.
You definitely don’t want to miss a thing Ocracoke has to offer.
Things to Do
Historic Places, Gardens, and Tours
When many people think of the island, the Ocracoke Lighthouse comes to mind. Built in 1823, it is the oldest lighthouse in operation in North Carolina and the second-oldest in the United States. It’s the shortest on the North Carolina coast, too, standing only 75 feet in height. Its beam penetrates 14 miles out to sea. The lighthouse was first given its distinctive whitewash in 1868; the wash was a brew of lime, a peck of salt, a half-pound of powdered Spanish whiting, three pounds of ground rice, a pound of glue, and enough boiling water to hold it all together. The builders of the lighthouse had the good sense to situate it on the island’s highest point, so it has been spared from flooding several times. When a hurricane in 1944 flooded many of the island’s homes with as much as two and a half feet of water, the waves merely lapped at the lighthouse’s doorstep. Now fully automated, the lighthouse is administered by the United States Coast Guard. Guests can tour the grounds, but the lighthouse is not open for climbing. For more information, visit www.nps.gov/caha/ocracokelh.htm.
JUST THE FACTS
Ocracoke is accessible by water or air. A free ferry crosses from Hatteras Island to Ocracoke about every half-hour in the summer. Reservations are not accepted; passengers cross on a first-come, first-served basis. Two ferries operate between Ocracoke and mainland North Carolina, one to the west from Swan Quarter in Hyde County and the other to the south from Cedar Island in Carteret County. Reservations are accepted for these ferries, and a fee is charged. For information on ferry schedules, fees, and crossing times, call 800-BY-FERRY or visit www.ncferry.org.
The only major road is N.C. 12; in Ocracoke, its official name is Irvin Garrish Highway.
The Greater Hyde County Chamber of Commerce, located on the mainland in Swan Quarter, is a good source for information about Ocracoke; call 888-493-3826 or 252-926-9171 or visit www.hydecounty.org.
Some people strolling Ocracoke are surprised to find a British flag flying here. The British Cemetery, located not far from Silver Lake, is a memorial to the men of the HMS Bedfordshire, a British antisubmarine ship torpedoed and sunk off Cape Lookout by a German U-boat in May 1942. All aboard perished. Four bodies washed ashore on Ocracoke and were given a burial befitting men serving their country and helping to protect the United States. The graveyard, surrounded by a white picket fence and maintained by the Coast Guard, contains concrete crosses with bronze plaques. One features the words of Rupert Brooke: “If I should die, think only this of me; / That there’s some corner of a foreign field / That is for ever England.”
Another British legacy on the island may be the wild ponies of Ocracoke. Legend has it that on at least one of Sir Walter Raleigh’s expeditions to the New World, his colonists left ponies on Roanoke Island. The ponies spread throughout the Outer Banks, as the islands used to be connected by land bridges until various hurricanes and nor’easters shifted the sands and created channels. A second theory postulates that the ponies may be descended from mustangs that swam ashore from Spanish galleons that met their watery end in the Atlantic. In either case, hundreds of wild ponies roamed the Banks until the advent of development and tourism after World War II. In 1959, those on Ocracoke were corralled into a 180-acre pasture near the northern end of the island. The Boy Scouts took over the care of the ponies around that time, becoming the nation’s only mounted troop. The National Park Service stepped in to care for the ponies in the early 1960s and continues in that role today. While viewing the ponies, you can conjecture about whether they are descended from shipwreck survivors or Raleigh’s brood. Visit www.nps.gov/caha/oc_ponies.htm for more information.
Museums and Science Centers
Though Ocracoke isn’t large, it is steeped in history and legend. The Native Americans of the area called the island Wokokon. Legend has it that the infamous Edward Teach, better known as the pirate Blackbeard, renamed the island on his final night. Anxious to do battle against the British who were trying to capture him, he cried out, “O Crow Cock!” beckoning the morning to appear. You can find out the complete history of the island at the Ocracoke Visitor Center, located in Ocracoke Village by Silver Lake. The entire village was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in July 1990. The visitor center offers exhibits detailing the important events in the island’s history. The National Park Service administers the site. Rangers are on hand to answer questions and to guide you to good books in the book shop. The center is open from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. year-round except Christmas; longer hours are offered in summer. To contact the visitor center for information, including docking fees, visit www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/visitor-centers.htm or call 252-928-4531.
Ocracoke Preservation Society Museum, at 49 Water Plant Road (27960) near the ferry docks off N.C. 12, is another excellent resource for information on the island’s history. The society is dedicated to honoring Ocracoke’s unique cultural, environmental, and architectural history. It was instrumental in getting many of the area’s homes and businesses recognized on the National Register. The society opened its museum in 1992 in the circa-1900 Captain David Williams House, home to the island’s first Coast Guard station chief. During summer, the society hosts art shows and museum porch talks on the village’s history. Admission is free. For information, call 252-928-7375 or visit www.ocracokemuseum.org.
Special Shopping
Ocracoke offers a number of distinctive shops where visitors can find anything from the basic necessities to souvenirs to commemorate their trip.
Deepwater Pottery, at 62 School Road (27960), offers pottery, hand-blown glass, candles, and jewelry, much of it either by local artisans or certified by the Fair Trade Federation. It is housed in a historic home set amid a grove of live oaks and cedars, so the exterior is as charming as what you’ll find inside. Call 252-928-7472 or visit www.deepwaterpottery.com.
Books to Be Red, next door to Deepwater Pottery at 34 School Road (27960), is an excellent shop offering new and used books ranging from local history to the latest fiction. For more information, call 252-928-3936.
Ocracoke Variety Store, at 950 Irvin Garrish Highway/N.C. 12 (27960), offers exactly what its name implies—a variety of everything. You’ll find grocery items, T-shirts, tools, books, postcards, and just about everything in between. Call 252-928-4911.
Natural Selections, at 35 School Road (27960), is also known as “the Hemp Shop.” When it opened in 1998, its focus was on selling products made from industrial hemp. It has now expanded to offer a variety of products made from bamboo, soy, organic cotton, flax linen, silk, and wool. The emphasis is on items made from the most environmentally friendly products possible. Call 252-928-4367 or visit www.ocracokeislandhemp.com.
Teach’s Hole is located at 935 Irvin Garrish Highway/N.C. 12 (27960). This essential stopping place is a “Blackbeard Exhibit and Pirate Specialty Shop.” A short film tells shoppers about Blackbeard’s connection to the island, his supposed haunts, and how he met his bloody end. History buffs will enjoy the displays of weapons, bottles, maps, coins, and flags of Blackbeard’s day. Visitors can select from over 1,000 pirate-related items, including books, maps, music, and even party supplies. Call 252-928-1718 or visit www.teachshole.com.
Recreation
One of the best ways to take in the natural bounty of Ocracoke is through the kayak ecotours offered by Ride the Wind Surf & Kayak. Several options are available, including a sunrise tour, a sunset tour, and a full-moon tour. Be sure to bring bug spray so the pests won’t enjoy the tour more than you do. Surf camps for kids and surf lessons for all ages are offered as well. Call 252-928-6311 or visit www.surfocracoke.com for more information.
Fishermen will want to make Anchorage Marina one of their first stops. Only 18 miles from the Gulf Stream, this marina is one of the closest jumping-off places for those in search of yellowfin tuna, wahoo, amberjack, and bluefish. The marina offers charter boats, dockage, gas and diesel, water and power hookups, showers, and even bikes for touring the island. A café on the premises sells drinks, lunches, and fishing supplies. Call 252-928-6661 or visit www.theanchorageinn.com/marina.htm for more information.
Seasonal Events
The annual Ocrafolk Music and Storytelling Festival, held in early June along School Road, features a variety of local artists and performers. The festival includes a cookoff, a parade, a fund-raising auction, and boat-building demonstrations. Admission is free. For more information, visit www.ocrafolkfestival.org.
Those who can’t make it to town for the festival should visit Deepwater Theater, located on School Road off N.C. 12. During the summer, the theater is home to Molasses Creek (a local bluegrass band of national acclaim) and the Ocrafolk Opry. General-admission tickets are sold 30 minutes prior to showtime; times vary, so call ahead. Call 252-928-4280 or visit www.deepwatertheater.com.
Places to Stay
Many Ocracoke regulars have a certain hotel or bed-and-breakfast they come back to time and again. You’re sure to find your favorite spot, too. Be sure to book early, since lots of new “regulars” discover Ocracoke each season.
Resorts, Hotels, and Motels
Captain’s Landing. Deluxe/Expensive. 324 Irvin Garrish Highway/N.C. 12, 27960 (252-928-1999; www.thecaptainslanding.com). This luxury hotel was named to honor the many captains in the proprietors’ families, including hometown hero Horatio Williams, a noted sailor who evaded the Yankees during the Civil War. The hotel’s comfortable waterfront suites overlook Silver Lake and feature queen beds, full kitchens, and private decks. The top-of-the-line penthouse offers a master suite, a guest room, a gourmet kitchen, and a laundry room. If neither of these options suits you, you can book the Captain’s Cottage for the ultimate in private, spacious relaxation—two bedrooms with private bathrooms, a full kitchen, a living room, a dining room, and a private patio. The hotel also provides bicycles and a grilling area.
Blackbeard’s Lodge. Expensive/Moderate. 111 Back Road, 27960 (800-892-5314 or 252-928-3421; www.blackbeardslodge.com). The friendly staff, the second-story sun deck, and the front desk made of a ship’s prow have made this place a favorite for many visitors. The lodge, which has been around since 1936 and touts itself as the island’s oldest hotel, offers 38 rooms and apartments. Guests may choose from a variety of rooms, some of which have full kitchens and whirlpool tubs. Kids enjoy the heated pool and the game room. Blackbeard’s Lodge is open March through November.
Anchorage Inn. Moderate. 205 Irvin Garrish Highway/N.C. 12, 27960 (252-9281101; www.theanchorageinn.com/inn.htm). The Anchorage Inn has five floors with 35 rooms and suites, many offering excellent views of the ocean and sound. The suites have full kitchens and private decks. A café, a pool, and grills are among the popular features here. Because of the Anchorage’s proximity to the marina, guests can charter boats from the inn.
Inns and Bed-and-Breakfasts
Ocracoke Harbor Inn. Deluxe. 144 Silver Lake Drive, 27960 (888-456-1998 or 252-928-5731; www.ocracokeharborinn.com). Overlooking Silver Lake, the Ocracoke Harbor Inn offers 16 rooms and seven suites, most of which feature a private porch that provides a stunning view of the village and the harbor. The inn features a continental breakfast on its waterfront deck and has grills available for use. All rooms and suites have televisions, telephones with modem ports, coffee makers, and refrigerators; the suites include kitchenettes and Jacuzzis. Guests can enjoy the luxury of strolling to dinner or biking to nearby shops. The inn is open from mid-March through the Monday after Thanksgiving.
Castle Bed-and-Breakfast and Courtyard Villas. Deluxe/Expensive. 155 Silver Lake Drive, 27960 (800-471-8848 or 252-928-3505; www.thecastlebb.com). This bed-and-breakfast offers two types of accommodations. Those looking for traditional lodging will like the 11 guest rooms, which have paneled walls, big, comfy beds, and private baths. Those looking for more spacious digs can enjoy one of the 22 villas, which have fully equipped kitchens and washers and dryers. A full buffet breakfast is offered for all guests. Other treats include a masseuse, a heated pool, and a sauna. Outdoor lovers will appreciate the on-site marina and the complimentary bicycles. Boat owners have access to complimentary dockage with power hookups at the Castle’s docks.
The Cove Bed-and-Breakfast. Deluxe/Expensive. 21 Loop Road, 27960 (252928-4192; www.thecovebb.com). Nestled near the foot of the lighthouse, this charming establishment has four guest rooms and three suites, each with queen-sized beds and private baths and balconies. The great views of the sound may inspire guests to lounge on the wraparound porch after breakfast or to borrow the inn’s bicycles. Continental breakfast and an evening wine reception are offered. The Cove is open year-round except for most of January.
Pelican Lodge. Expensive/Moderate. 1021 Irvin Garrish Highway/N.C. 12, 27960 (888-773-5422 or 252-928-1661; www.bbonline.com/nc/pelican). This rustic-looking lodge, split into Pelican Lodge East and Pelican Lodge West, prides itself on its attention to guests’ needs and desires. A registered dietitian supervises breakfast. A car-rental service and the lodge’s own air service, Pelican Airways, provide transportation; aerial sightseeing tours are available. The five guest rooms have private baths and cable television. Complimentary bicycles are available for those who would like to explore the island. The lodge is open year-round.
Thurston House Inn. Expensive/Moderate. 671 Irvin Garrish Highway/N.C. 12, 27960 (252-928-6037; www.thurstonhouseinn.com). The Thurston House Inn was built in the 1920s by Captain Tony Thurston Gaskill. It offers six guest rooms, all with private baths, hot tubs, and televisions; some rooms have private decks and entrances. An expanded continental breakfast greets guests before the day’s activities, all of which are easily accessible from the inn’s large, breezy front porch. The inn is open March through mid-December.
Places to Eat
You really can’t go wrong with any of the eateries on Ocracoke Island, so be adventurous and try a new one each opportunity you get. The variety—fresh-off-the-boat seafood, good old meat and potatoes, Italian, gourmet, casual—is enough to satisfy any palate. If you haven’t been to Ocracoke lately, you should note that restaurants are now allowed to have full ABC permits. As with every place on the Outer Banks, hours are seasonal, so it’s best to call ahead to make sure your restaurant of choice is serving.
The Back Porch. Expensive. 110 Back Road, 27960 (252-928-6401). This restaurant prides itself on being out of the way on the already out-of-the-way Ocracoke. Secluded from N.C. 12 by trees and cacti, The Back Porch does indeed feature a lovely back porch. Or you can select the indoor dining room. From the first bite, it is obvious that all the sauces, condiments, and breads are made on-site. Freshly ground coffee and homemade desserts round out the evening. If you’d like to try your hand at any of The Back Porch’s unique dishes, a cookbook is available at the hostesses’ station. Dinner is served nightly in season.
Creekside Café. Moderate. 621 Irvin Garrish Highway/N.C. 12, 27960 (252-9283606; www.ocracokeisland.com/creekside_cafe.htm). Creekside Café, overlooking Silver Lake, is a nice place to take a rest from your island explorations and get a cool drink and a bite to eat. Light fare like soups, salads, and sandwiches is offered. The truly hungry can choose from the seafood and burger selections. Try to get a seat on the porch to enjoy the breeze and the great view. Lunch and dinner are served daily.
Flying Melon. Moderate. 804 Irvin Garish Highway/N.C. 12, 27960 (252-9282533). Don’t let the humble façade fool you. Inside, you’ll find some of the best food on the island. The Flying Melon combines fresh seafood with a New Orleans mentality. Its sweet potato pancakes are already legendary, even though the restaurant is relatively new. Lunch is served Tuesday to Sunday and dinner Tuesday to Saturday. The restaurant is closed from mid-November to mid-March.
Howard’s Pub and Raw Bar. Moderate. 1175 Irvin Garrish Highway/N.C. 12, 27960 (252-928-4441; www.howardspub.com). Open 365 days a year, this is a popular hangout for locals and visitors alike. The only raw bar on the island, Howard’s features more than 200 imported, domestic, and microbrew beers. So it follows that it’s famous for things like the spicy “Ocracoke Oyster Shooter.” The dishes most in demand include steaks, barbecued ribs, blackened tuna, and marinated mahi-mahi. The hand-shaped half-pound burgers, the hand-cut fries, the homemade salsa, the chili, the chowder, and the desserts are popular, too. The screened-in porch invites visitors to sit back, relax, and slip into an “Ocracoma,” an altered state caused by the sense of contentment the surroundings induce.
Island Inn Restaurant. Moderate. At the Island Inn on Lighthouse Road, 27960 (877-456-3466 or 252-928-4351; www.ocracokeislandinn.com/dining.htm). You don’t have to be a guest of the Island Inn to enjoy this appealing restaurant; you just have to be hungry for a great meal. One of the oldest restaurants on Ocracoke, it uses china like you’d find at Grandma’s house. The cooking, though, is definitely not Grandma’s, unless she serves shrimp and oysters in the morning. And you won’t be disappointed by the homemade fish cakes or the paella. Guests who would like to take part of their dining experience home can purchase Chardonnay bottled specially for the restaurant. Breakfast and dinner are served daily.
Thai Moon. Moderate. In Spencer’s Market at 589C Irvin Garrish Highway/N.C. 12, 27960 (252-928-5100). This takeout-only restaurant had its praises sung by a Gourmet magazine writer for having some of the best Thai food he’d tasted anywhere. If you’re looking for a spicy diversion from traditional seafood, then you’re at the right place. Thai Moon doesn’t accept credit cards, though. And be sure to call ahead if you’re catching the ferry. Lunch and dinner are served Tuesday to Sunday.
The Gallivantin’ Outer Banks
This old world of ours, after having gone through many geological changes, is pretty well established.
If you’re a resident of Charlotte, if you were to pull up stakes and move out to California, and if you should return in thirty years or more, you’d be pretty sure that Charlotte would be exactly where it was when you left it. Of course the city might have grown a lot but this growth would be in the nature of expansion in all directions.
The same thing is true of practically every other place—except the outer banks, of which Ocracoke is a part.
Throughout the years there have been many changes along this strip of narrow islands along the coast of North Carolina. The beach has been built up at some points, it has been washed away at others. Sand dunes move slowly up the coast, the sand being blown up one side and deposited on the other. It was because of this that the memorial to the Wright brothers on Kill Devil Hill couldn’t be built until it had been “anchored” by planting grass on its slopes. Prior to that it kept inching up toward the north.
Inlets appear after a severe storm while others vanish. The same is true of channels. Many years ago someone may have left a worn-out automobile on the sand-flats: today it may be a sizable sand dune.
These changes have been recognized as one of the nation’s major geographic curiosities. They are fascinating to the layman and expert alike.
The present shoreline has been built up by wave action on what originally were shoals situated farther to the east. The outer banks are now being pushed toward the mainland by wave action, which washes the sand to the beach, and by wind action, which carries the sand inland. The winds are constantly moving the sand, building dunes and ridges in some places and tearing them down in others. This movement will continue as long as the sea remains at its present level.
Some 20,000 years ago, the shoreline was far back on the mainland. Let’s say that it was where Washington, New Bern, Columbia and Elizabeth City are now located. The water level was 25 feet above its present level. Then came the last glaciation and the water level dropped 50 feet, or 25 feet lower than at present. That meant that such shallow areas as Diamond Shoals were completely out of water. As a matter of fact, I’ve heard Frank Kugler of Washington say that even in recent years he has jumped out of a boat at Diamond Shoals and has walked on dry sand. The final step was when the continental ice sheet melted and the sea level rose to its present height. This meant that many low areas, formerly out of the water, became submerged again.
It’s an interesting study. And don’t think for a moment that the changes are at an end. Not by a long shot; they will continue as long as the waves wash on the beach and as long as the wind blows the sand around.
