There is a peace that settles on my soul whenever I get away to the mountains. Driving west on Interstate 40 from my home in the Piedmont, it’s easy to be fooled into thinking the blue images in the distance are a line of thunderstorms marching eastward. But as the engine of my car works harder as I climb, the mountains come into clearer view, and that familiar peace welcomes me. I have heard many people remark that traveling to the Blue Ridge Mountains is like coming home, even if it’s the first time they’ve visited. These ancient peaks and valleys beckon with a warmth and understanding that comes from their age. In Asheville, as they like to say, “altitude affects attitude.”
After the tortuous climb past Old Fort, the mountains are suddenly all around you. The road curves more sharply, but the reward is a new view with every turn. Drivers beware! It’s easy to be distracted by the vistas you’ll encounter for the next half-hour on your drive toward Asheville.
The city of Asheville, named for Governor Samuel Ashe, was incorporated in 1797. The influence of the Scots-Irish immigrants who settled this area is apparent. For example, many old bluegrass tunes sound quite similar to Irish jigs.
Asheville was an isolated town of only 2,600 before the coming of the railroad in the 1880s. Some of the first flatlanders to find their way here were the wealthy, who came to escape the oppressive heat of summer. They built large summer homes and elaborate resort hotels. Soon, Asheville’s population was over 10,000.
In the 1920s, Asheville experienced another growth spurt. The popular Art Deco style of the day can still be seen in many downtown buildings. When city hall was erected, many citizens were disturbed by its opulent domed roof covered with green and pink tiles. The same architect was scheduled to build the county courthouse, but the pendulum swung in the opposite direction, and his contract was canceled. The courthouse looks like the straight-laced sibling of the neighboring city hall.
Asheville continues to attract visitors, as well as those who come to settle on this plateau between the Blue Ridge and Great Smoky mountains. And if the temperate weather and beautiful vistas aren’t enough, the city offers a unique regional culture, a longstanding crafts tradition, a wide variety of shops and restaurants, outdoor recreation to suit even the most adventurous tastes, and first-class accommodations. Oh yes, and don’t forget the French château and the five-star hotel and spa.
A trip to Asheville can be filled with shopping, dining, high culture, hiking, rafting, mountain climbing—the options are endless. Personally, watching sunsets is usually the activity that occupies my time.
JUST THE FACTS
Asheville is located at the crossing of Interstate 40 and Interstate 26.
It is served by Asheville Regional Airport; for information, call 828-684-2226 or visit www.flyavl.com.
The Greyhound bus terminal is located at 2 Tunnel Road (28801); call 828-253-8451 for information.
The Asheville Visitor Center is at 36 Montford Avenue (28801); take Exit 4C off Interstate 240. It is well staffed and open daily. For information, call 888-247-9811 or 828-258-6101 or visit www.exploreasheville.com.
The daily newspaper, the Asheville Citizen-Times, is a great source of information, as is Mountain XPress, a free weekly. You can also pick up Bold Life, a free monthly publication of arts and culture in the highlands.
Things to Do
Historic Places, Gardens, and Tours
You have a variety of options for tours, including a walking architecture and history tour of the Montford neighborhood, an auto rickshaw tour of Riverside Cemetery, an urban-trail tour, and a historic trolley tour. For something a bit different, try a Segway tour, the LaZoom Comedy Tour, or my husband’s favorite, an Asheville Brews Cruise. All are great ways to begin the Asheville experience, since they will give you the lay of the land and help you decide which places to explore further. For information about tours, contact the Asheville Visitor Center.
Biltmore Estate is located on U.S. 25 just north of Exit 50 off Interstate 40 at 1 Approach Road (28803). Words do little to describe this 16th-century-style château modeled after those in France’s Loire Valley. The working estate is surrounded by rolling forestland, formal gardens, a winery, and a river. All of this is surprising, considering its proximity to Asheville’s downtown.
Opened as a private home in 1895, Biltmore Estate boasted all the latest innovations, including central heating, indoor plumbing, electric lights, a bowling alley, a gymnasium, and an indoor pool—awe-inspiring features for its time. It has charmed its many visitors with its beauty, luxury, and amenities ever since.
George Vanderbilt, grandson of industrialist Cornelius Vanderbilt, purchased 125,000 acres near Asheville because he loved the mountain views and climate. He promptly hired architect Richard Morris Hunt and landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted, two of America’s leading designers, to plan his estate.
The 250-room mansion took hundreds of workers more than five years to build. The construction site had its own brick kilns and woodworking shops. Limestone was transported on a railroad spur laid just for Biltmore. Artisans and craftsmen were brought from Europe. Many of the men employed in the building of the home fell in love with Asheville and stayed after construction was finished. They settled easily into the area’s strong crafts tradition.
While work was progressing on the mansion, the land was also getting attention. Vanderbilt wanted an estate that would include a productive farm and forest. His emphasis on land management is evidenced by the fact that most of the property was eventually sold to the federal government and became part of the Blue Ridge Parkway or Pisgah National Forest. Family descendants still own the mansion and 8,000 surrounding acres. Frederick Law Olmsted, most famous for his design of New York’s Central Park, planned the gardens and the park surrounding the home, including the three-mile driveway.
After passing the Lodge Gate, you will make the beautiful drive to the visitor center, where you can purchase admission tickets. You may also view a short film about Biltmore, see a relief map of the area, check the menus of the estate’s restau-rants, and visit the restroom.
Your first view of the château will be across a long lawn with a reflecting pool in the center. The complex exterior features massive carved archways, columns, and gargoyles. This is but the beginning of the wonders to behold here.
You will enter Biltmore House just as George Vanderbilt’s guests did over a century ago—through the main door and into the grand foyer, where you can purchase personal headsets that will allow you to tour the house at your own speed. It’s well worth the fee, especially since the recent opening of new rooms on the second floor. Elevators are available for those who can’t negotiate the staircases. The grand foyer is the hub of the mansion. Musical groups are often invited to perform in the winter garden on the right side of the foyer.
Each room in the mansion is distinctive. The medieval-style banquet room has a 70-foot arched ceiling, a table that seats 64, Flemish tapestries, numerous elk and moose heads, and a carved mantel that spans three massive fireplaces. The two-story Baroque library has elaborately carved paneling and an 18th-century painted ceiling imported from Venice.
Plan on spending at least half a day at Biltmore. The tour of the mansion lasts two-plus hours and covers everything from the third-floor guest suites to basement service areas such as the kitchens, pantries, and laundry. You’ll also see the servants’ quarters, the bowling alley, the gymnasium, and the indoor pool, complete with private changing rooms.
After touring the mansion, you can stroll the formal gardens. You may also want to visit the Biltmore Estate Winery, where a brief tour and a wine tasting are offered. The vintners are understandably proud of their award-winning wines. If you get hungry, your options include sandwiches, drinks, and ice cream at the Stable Café, located next to the mansion; baked goods and snacks at the bakery and the candy shop; and upscale dining at Deerpark Restaurant or the Winery Bistro, both located near the winery.
The house is open daily from 9 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. No one is admitted after 4 P.M.; the front door closes at 4:30 P.M. The winery is open daily from noon to 7 P.M. The admission fee may seem expensive until you realize you’re paying for at least half a day’s entertainment in a place unlike any other in America. For more information, call 800-411-3812 or 828-225-1333 or visit www.biltmore.com.
The North Carolina Arboretum, near Milepost 393 on the Blue Ridge Parkway at 100 Frederick Law Olmsted Way (28803), is nestled in one of the most beautiful natural settings in America. Within its 434 acres, the arboretum offers 65 acres of cultivated gardens, 10 miles of forested hiking and biking trails, a state-of-the-art greenhouse production facility, and the finest bonsai collection in the southeastern United States. A parking fee is charged except on Tuesday. The arboretum is open daily except Christmas, weather permitting. Its hours are 8 A.M. to 9 P.M. from April through October and 8 A.M. to 7 P.M. from November through March. Hours for the Visitor Education Center and the Bonsai Exhibition Garden are Monday through Saturday from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. and Sunday from noon to 5 P.M. The greenhouse hours are Monday through Friday from 9 A.M. to 2 P.M. For more information, including a calendar of special events and educational programs, call 828-665-2492 or visit www.ncarboretum.org.
The Thomas Wolfe Memorial is located at 52 North Market Street (28801). The house suffered a fire at the hands of an arsonist on July 24, 1998. Over 85 percent of the personal belongings and artifacts of the Wolfe family escaped the flames but had to undergo extensive restoration from smoke and water damage. The home has now been completely restored.
Wolfe grew up in this 28-room house yet had no room of his own, since his mother used the majority of the building for a boardinghouse. In 1929, when Wolfe published Look Homeward, Angel, the residents of Asheville easily recognized the “Dixieland” boardinghouse in the town of “Altamont.” They were not amused by Wolfe’s less-than-flattering picture of his hometown. The local public library banned the book for more than seven years. Asheville eventually came to appreciate the talent of its native son. In 1948, some 10 years after Wolfe’s death, the Asheville Chamber of Commerce helped purchase the house as a memorial to one of the 20th century’s great novelists. In 1976, the memorial was designated a state historic site.
The visitor center is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. and Sunday from 1 P.M. to 5 P.M. Check with the site for information on special events, especially those around October 3, Wolfe’s birthday. Call 828-253-8304 or visit www.wolfememorial.com.
Botanical Gardens at Asheville, at 151 W. T. Weaver Boulevard (28804), is a beautiful setting for the preservation and display of trees, plants, and flowers native to the southern Appalachians. In 1960, several local garden clubs came together to help plant the grounds of this 10-acre preserve on the campus of the University of North Carolina at Asheville. Now operating as a nonprofit organization, the gardens provide a study area and information center for those interested in horticulture and those who simply appreciate a place of quiet beauty. Unpaved trails wind through the various areas, including the azalea garden and the garden for the blind. A wheelchair ramp is available. The gardens are open daily during daylight hours. Admission is free. For information, call 828-252-5190 or visit www.ashevillebotanicalgardens.org.
Museums and Science Centers
Pack Place, at 2 South Pack Square (28801), opened in 1992 at the cost of $14 million. It provides western North Carolina with a premier arts-and-sciences center, housing museums, offices for local arts organizations, and galleries and studios for artists. The Asheville Art Museum has a collection of contemporary and traditional paintings and sculptures by Southern artists. The Colburn Earth Science Museum displays 1,500 gems, semiprecious stones, fossils, and minerals, many from the area. Pack Place also houses an interactive museum called Health Adventure, which is popular with families. At 39 South Market Street within walking distance of Pack Place is Asheville’s African-American cultural facility, the YMI Cultural Center. Pack Place is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. and Sunday from 1 P.M. to 5 P.M. from June through October; it is closed on Sunday during winter. Hours vary for the partner museums, so check before you go. Call 828-257-4500 or visit www.packplace.org.
Pack Square Park, at 1 West Pack Square (28801), is the new jewel of downtown. The 6.5-acre park is opening in stages through 2010. When completed, it will give Asheville a beautiful new gathering spot. The park will include a large lawn, an amphitheater, local artwork, benches, lush landscaping, and interactive fountains that promise giggling, splashing, and maybe even a soaking. Pack Square Park will provide a wonderful venue for new events, as well as Shindig on the Green, Bele Chere, the Greek Festival, the Fourth of July celebration, and other events throughout the year. Be sure to check out the 300 colorful tiles handmade by local middle-school students. Whether you’re attending an event, shopping, or touring the town, the park is a perfect place to take a break in the shade and watch the world go by.
The Smith-McDowell House Museum is located on the campus of Asheville-Buncombe Technical Community College at 283 Victoria Road (28801). This brick mansion is the city’s oldest home. Built in 1840, it has four stories and a double-tiered full-length porch with locally crafted columns. It was the home of mayors, a Confederate major, and friends of the Vanderbilts. The museum features restored period rooms, changing history exhibits, grounds designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr., and the Buncombe County Civil War Memorial. It is open Wednesday through Saturday from 10 A.M. to 4 P.M. and Sunday from noon to 4 P.M. A small admission fee is charged. School programs and group tours can be arranged. For information, call 828-253-9231 or visit www.wnchistory.org.
The Western North Carolina Nature Center, at 75 Gashes Creek Road (28805) on the grounds of the former Asheville Zoo, is designed to show the interaction between plants and animals in the southern Appalachians. The exhibits will interest both children and adults. One features the underground den of a live chipmunk beneath a tree’s roots. The center presents animals in natural-habitat exhibits. Domestic animals are showcased at its Educational Farm, where, for example, children can see a cow being milked. A small gift shop offers nature books and souvenirs. The center is open daily from 10 A.M. to 5 P.M. A small admission fee is charged. For information, call 828-298-5600 or visit www.wncnaturecenter.org.
Cultural Offerings
Asheville has a thriving arts community with a long history. A visit would not be complete without taking in some of the galleries and studios. The Asheville Visitor Center has guides to the River Arts District, Biltmore Village, and the Biltmore Antiques District, as well as information on Grovewood Gallery. The Gallery and Art Walks Guide to downtown is also available.
The Asheville Symphony, headquartered at 87 Haywood Street (28801), is a fine regional orchestra founded in 1960. It offers a series of classical concerts usually featuring an internationally known guest artist. Call 828-254-7046 or visit www.ashevillesymphony.org for information and a schedule of performances.
Asheville Community Theatre, at 35 East Walnut Street (28801), presents 10 productions annually. These include comedies, dramas, and musicals. It also offers a reader’s theater, a children’s theater, and classes. For information, call 828-254-1320 or visit www.ashevilletheatre.org.
Special Shopping
Downtown Asheville is experiencing a very successful revitalization. The streets are dotted with a wonderful mix of coffeehouses, antique shops, boutiques, and restaurants. Call 828-768-5600 or visit www.downtownasheville.com for more information and the latest news and events.
Wall Street, part of which has been blocked off to create a pedestrian mall, has a great concentration of interesting shops and restaurants.
Just a short distance away at 55 Haywood Street (28801) is Malaprop’s, one of those great independent bookstores that are becoming increasingly rare these days. Besides a fine selection of regional books, Malaprop’s has a small, trendy café where you can sip a cappuccino while getting started on your latest literary purchase. Call 828-254-6734 or visit www.malaprops.com.
Grove Arcade, at 1 Page Avenue (28801), has been painstakingly restored to its original glory. Boasting more than 35 businesses at the time of this writing, with new ones coming in all the time, the arcade offers fresh foods, regional cuisine, locally made crafts, galleries, and a wide variety of restaurants. Built as a public market but inhabited by the federal government from World War II until the 1990s, the unusual Neo-Gothic building features griffins at the entrance, original phone booths, terrazzo tile, soaring ceilings, gargoyles, and friezes. A self-guided architectural and historical tour is available for download from the arcade’s website. For the newest vendors and monthly events, call 828-252-7799 or check out www.grovearcade.com.
Biltmore Village, across U.S. 25 from the entrance to Biltmore Estate, is a quaint neighborhood of houses built for the artisans and craftsmen who helped construct the mansion. The two-story houses have been turned into restaurants and shops selling gifts, stationery, jewelry, clothing, knitting supplies, and household accessories. The little village is a nice setting for strolling and window shopping. More information is available at www.biltmorevillage.com.
The Screen Door, at 115 Fairview Road (28803), is a treasure hunter’s haven. It is actually a collection of booths for area artisans, antique dealers, and craftsmen. The fun here is in the hunt. Treasures to be found include garden accessories, heirloom seeds, recycled metal sculptures, antique china and silver, estate jewelry, funky furniture, face jugs, books, toys…. Get the picture? Every trip is rewarded with something you didn’t see the last time you stopped in. The Screen Door also holds seminars and workshops from time to time. It is open from 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. Monday through Saturday and from 1 P.M. to 6 P.M. on Sunday. Call 828-277-3667 or visit www.screendoorasheville.com for more information.
The Folk Art Center is located east of Asheville at Milepost 382 on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It features the work of the Southern Highland Craft Guild, an organization of artisans who make pottery, baskets, quilts, candles, brooms, weavings, furniture, jewelry, dolls, musical instruments, and woodcarvings, among other things. This low-roofed building opened in 1980 in a beautiful setting surrounded by flowering trees and azaleas. It serves as an educational center, a research library, a craft shop, and exhibition space. The guild hosts special events such as folk dancing, demonstrations of traditional crafts, and lecture series. The Allanstand Craft Shop, located on the premises, offers the largest and most diverse collection of high-quality handmade crafts anywhere in the North Carolina mountains. This is definitely a great place for gift shopping, even if the gift is for you! The center is open from 9 A.M. to 6 P.M. daily; it closes an hour earlier during January, February, and March. Admission is free. For information, visit www.southernhighlandguild.org or call 828-298-7928.
Western North Carolina Farmers Market, at 570 Brevard Road (28806) off N.C. 191 and Interstate 40, is a joy for the eye as well as the palate. This modern facility is operated year-round by the North Carolina Department of Agriculture. The feast for the senses begins with fresh local fruits and vegetables and continues with dried flowers, jams and jellies, and homemade crafts. The market is open daily from 8 A.M. to 6 P.M. April through October and from 8 A.M. to 5 P.M. November through March. Admission is free. For information, call 828-253-1691.
Recreation
If you like the great outdoors, Asheville’s the place for you. Surrounded by three park areas containing more than a million acres, it offers plenty of opportunities for camping, hiking, fishing, horseback riding, and whitewater rafting.
If you plan to visit Great Smoky Mountains National Park, call 865-436-1200 or check out www.nps.gov/grsm. If you’d like to stay in one of the six campgrounds of the Blue Ridge Parkway, call 877-444-6777. If you want to camp in Pisgah National Forest, call 828-257-4200.
For hikers, opportunities don’t get any better than the legendary Appalachian Trail, which cuts through Pisgah National Forest and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Check with the park offices listed above or visit www.appalachiantrail.org.
Is fishing your passion? Head for Lake Julian, south of Asheville on N.C. 280 off U.S. 25; Lake Powhatan, on N.C. 191 just off the Blue Ridge Parkway south of Asheville; or Lake Lure, on U.S. 74 southeast of Asheville. You’ll need a state fishing license. For information about hunting and fishing regulations, call 828-258-6101; for a list of area businesses that sell licenses, visit www.wildlife.org.
Whitewater rafting is popular from June through August on the French Broad River north of Asheville. Check out French Broad Rafting Expeditions (800-570-RAFT; www.frenchbroadrafting.com) or Huck Finn Rafting Adventures (877-520-4658; www.huckfinnrafting.com) for guided whitewater rafting excursions and calm-water float trips in the Asheville area. If you’re a serious rafter and want to try other rivers, see the chapter on Franklin for companies that raft the Nantahala Gorge.
Skiing doesn’t usually come to mind when visitors ponder the outdoor activities of North Carolina. However, the highest mountains in the eastern United States are here. Wolf Laurel Ski Resort (800-817-4111 or 828-689-4111; www.skiwolfridgenc.com) is closest to Asheville. Cataloochee Ski Resort (800-768-0285 or 828-926-0285; www.cataloochee.com) is a short drive away in Maggie Valley. For information on other ski resorts, see the Boone chapter and the chapter on Banner Elk, Beech Mountain, and Linville.
Golf in the mountains presents its own special challenges and pleasures. Check out Asheville Municipal Golf Course (828-298-1867), Black Mountain Golf Course (828-669-2710), Reems Creek Golf Club (828-645-4393), and The Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa (800-438-5800).
The Mountain Dance and Folk Festival, held at Pack Place the first weekend in August, is the oldest event of its kind in the nation. It showcases the best mountain crafts, musicians, and dancers—both cloggers and folk dancers. Started in 1927 by Bascom Lamar Lunsford, it is often called “the Granddaddy of Mountain Festivals.” For information, call 800-257-1300 or 828-258-6101 or visit www.folkheritage.org.
The Craft Fair of the Southern Highlands is held in the Asheville Civic Center the third weekend in July and the third weekend in October every year. Over 100 craftspeople from the South demonstrate, display, and sell their works. Mountain music and dancing are part of the celebration. Call 828-298-7928 for information.
Bele Chere Downtown Community Celebration, held the last weekend in July, features bands (many of them nationally known), international food vendors, crafts, and contests. It is known as the largest free outdoor festival in the Southeast. The downtown area is closed to vehicles for the weekend. For information, call 828-259-5800 or visit www.belecherefestival.com.
Shindig on the Green is a series of free bluegrass concerts held on Saturday nights throughout the summer. They take place at Pack Square Park and are a great way to spend a Saturday evening in the mountains. For more information, call 800-257-1300 or 828-258-6107.
The Mountain Sports Festival is a three-day outdoor celebration in May featuring professional and amateur-level competitions in paddling, cycling, running, and climbing. Demonstrations and beginner-level events in various sports serve to educate and entertain. The festival is centered at Carrier Park on Amboy Road, where you’ll find food, award presentations, demonstrations, retail vendors, and live entertainment. Admission is free to spectators; participation in competitions requires a registration fee. For more information, visit www.mountainsportsfestival.com or call 828-251-4029.
LEAF (Lake Eden Arts Festival), held at Camp Rockmont in neighboring Black Mountain, is a weekend festival in spring and fall that strives to connect cultures and create community through music and art. The three-day event includes a wide variety of handicrafts, folk art, culinary arts, healing arts, poetry, and outdoor activities like swimming, canoeing, kayaking, and hiking. Add to this workshops, folk dancing, and performances by world-renowned hip-hop, jazz, funk, folk, swing, blues, and zydeco acts and you have the makings of a great time for everyone. “LEAFers,” as they are affectionately called, are involved in community outreach that pairs artists with youth in workshops, residencies, and interactive performances. Tickets are sold only in advance. For information, visit www.thelakeedenartsfestival.org or call 828-686-8742.
Places to Stay
Asheville has a great selection of accommodations. It offers 6,000-plus rooms in historic mountain retreats, country inns, bed-and-breakfasts, upscale downtown hotels, economy motels, national chain hotels, and everything in between. Reservations are highly recommended. You’ll find Asheville a great home base for your mountain adventures, but don’t even think about dropping in during fall leaf season or one of Asheville’s popular festivals, when rooms have been reserved months in advance. Consider visiting in winter, when rates at many places are drastically reduced from summer and fall.
The Grand Bohemian Hotel. Deluxe. 11 Boston Way, 28803 (877-274-1242; www.bohemianhotelasheville.com). Stepping into The Grand Bohemian is like entering an Old World hunting lodge, complete with stone archways, rich leather seating, antler chandeliers, and an inviting fireplace in the center of the lobby. Be prepared to be treated like aristocracy. Located in historic Biltmore Village, it is only a stroll away from art galleries, museums, shops, and restaurants. The Grand Bohemian offers 104 luxurious guest rooms and suites, state-of-the-art fitness equipment, 5,000-plus square feet of event space, and its own art gallery and gift shop. The Red Stag Grill serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner in a cozy street-side setting. From the beautifully appointed bar, you can admire the hotel’s fine collections of steins and local artwork. Another thing worth admiring is the extensive wine list, which features vintages from around the globe. Each room has a flat-screen television, a surround-sound stereo, and an innovative RoomLinx interactive media and entertainment system. You can take a long soak in your room’s massive bathtub or make an appointment for some pampering at the hotel’s Poseidon Spa. This is the place to feed your desire to be treated like a royal.
The Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa. Deluxe. 290 Macon Avenue, 28804 (800-438-5800 or 828-252-2711; www.groveparkinn.com). The United States has only a handful of truly grand resort hotels. This is one of them. The attention to detail here comes from a long tradition. Back in the early 1900s, staff members used to polish every coin, so that no guest would be handed a tarnished piece of currency. While that is no longer the rule, it is an example of the kind of service that is still a part of the Grove Park.
The inn was the dream of E. W. Grove, the owner of a pharmaceutical firm famous for Grove’s Tasteless Chill Tonic. Grove visited Asheville and found the climate beneficial to his health. His dream was to build the finest resort hotel in the world. After the inn opened in 1913, it became a favorite destination for the rich, the famous, and the powerful. One of the long hallways features photos of some of the inn’s illustrious guests: Presidents Wilson, Taft, Coolidge, Hoover, Eisenhower, and Obama; business tycoons Henry Ford and Harvey Firestone; inventor Thomas Edison; and entertainers Enrico Caruso and Mikhail Baryshnikov. Many of the rooms have brass plaques on the doors that tell the year some famous person stayed there. One of the most requested rooms was used by F. Scott Fitzgerald.
The resort’s golf course was redesigned by Donald Ross in 1924 and remodeled in 2001. In 1973, the inn was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. That same decade, it added an indoor pool, a sports center, and a clubhouse. In the 1980s, wings were added to provide 512 deluxe rooms, two ballrooms, and a conference center. The new millennium has brought the most ambitious addition to date—a state-of-the-art spa complete with a lap pool, a mineral pool, several hot tubs, and an outdoor pool. The spa treatments are nothing short of luxurious. Located below the Sunset Terrace and between the two wings, the spa is mostly underground, so as not to spoil the view from the main inn.
The guest rooms are luxurious and the service outstanding. The inn offers outdoor activities, shopping and browsing, and award-winning dining. Many people who come for a once-in-a-lifetime experience wind up making a stay here a tradition.
Haywood Park Hotel. Deluxe/Expensive. 1 Battery Park Avenue, 28801 (800-228-2522 or 828-252-2522; www.haywoodpark.com). Haywood Park is an ultra-sophisticated suite hotel in the heart of downtown. The feel here is elegant and refined. The lobby, accented by polished brass railings, doesn’t overpower guests with a lot of furniture. The huge rooms open into small common areas located on each floor. This is the type of hotel you’d expect to find in London or New York; the attention to detail and outstanding service are not bettered in any city. Haywood Park’s location makes it the ideal spot from which to enjoy Asheville’s boutiques and restaurants. It’s also a popular choice for a front-row seat for the city’s summer festivals.
Crowne Plaza Tennis and Golf Resort. Expensive/Moderate. 1 Resort Drive, 28806 (800-733-3211 or 828-254-3211; www.ashevillecp.com). While large chain properties are generally not listed in this guide, this one is worthy of an exception. Situated on 120 acres close to downtown, the resort and conference center has some unusual extras. The low-rise buildings allow an unobstructed view of the city and the surrounding mountains. Extensive meeting and banquet facilities are on the premises. But what makes this place unique are the options for play, such as the nine-hole championship golf course, the indoor soccer center, the 14 outdoor tennis courts, and the walking trails.
Inns and Bed-and-Breakfasts
Cumberland Falls Bed and Breakfast Inn. Deluxe. 254 Cumberland Avenue, 28801 (888-743-2557 or 828-253-4085; www.cumberlandfalls.com). Built in 1902, Cumberland Falls is in the heart of Asheville’s historic Montford neighborhood. The inn has five luxury guest rooms, each with its own beautifully decorated ambiance. Some include a Jacuzzi, a fireplace, or skylights. But don’t stay in your room all the time and miss out on the spectacular garden, complete with a footbridge, a koi-filled pond, a waterfall, comfortable seating, and gently playing music. This place of beauty and solace is the perfect setting for unwinding from the day’s explorations. The innkeepers are very knowledgeable about the area and will be glad to offer suggestions for your vacation. Rates include a gourmet breakfast sure to fuel you for your adventures.
Inn on Biltmore Estate. Deluxe. 1 Antler Hill Road, 28801 (800-411-3812 or 828-225-1600; www.biltmore.com). Offering the only accommodations on Biltmore Estate, this inn continues a century-old legacy of hospitality begun by George Vanderbilt for his guests. Luxury and comfort reign here. Each of the 213 finely appointed rooms and suites has a breathtaking mountain view. Comfy chairs, fireplaces, terraces, a veranda, an outdoor pool, and exceptional service all come together to make this a true retreat experience. The dining room offers classic, yet innovative, cuisine centered around estate-raised beef, lamb, and veal, complemented by Biltmore Estate wines. The atmosphere is one of casual elegance, graciousness, and refined taste, all framed by the surrounding mountains.
1891 Cedar Crest Inn. Deluxe/Expensive. 674 Biltmore Avenue, 28803 (800-252-0310 or 828-252-1389; www.cedarcrestinn.com). Cedar Crest is one of the largest and most opulent residences surviving from Asheville’s 1890s boom period. Perched on a hill three blocks north of the Biltmore Estate, this Queen Anne–style dwelling sits on four landscaped acres featuring English perennial gardens and a croquet lawn. Architectural details include a captain’s walk, turrets, expansive verandas, carved oak paneling, and leaded glass. The guest rooms are appointed with satin-and-lace Victorian trappings and feature period antiques, canopied ceilings, claw-foot tubs, and fireplaces. Guests are treated to a sumptuous breakfast, afternoon refreshments, tea, coffee, desserts, and a true spirit of hospitality.
Chestnut Street Inn. Expensive/Moderate. 176 East Chestnut Street, 28801 (800-894-2955 or 828-285-0705; www.chestnutstreetinn.com). This large Colonial Revival home is located in the Chestnut Hill National Historic District. Its large porches are a beautiful accent to the mellow red-brick exterior. The high ceilings, ornate mantels, and antique furnishings and decorations transport guests back to a time when life had a relaxed quality. Amenities include private baths, down comforters, bathrobes, and fresh flowers. A full gourmet breakfast is served each morning. Guests enjoy late-afternoon tea on the veranda. If you’re lucky, Mr. Bently, the inn’s canine butler, may lead you through the English-style flower garden.
The Lion & the Rose. Expensive/Moderate. 276 Montford Avenue, 28801 (800-546-6988 or 828-255-7673; www.lion-rose.com). Comfort and elegance abound in this wonderful bed-and-breakfast, where no detail is overlooked. A Georgian mansion built around 1895, it has five elegant guest rooms, including a bridal suite with a balcony. Located in the historic Montford neighborhood, the inn has beautiful gardens for strolling and a veranda for relaxing. A full gourmet breakfast is served each morning. Afternoon tea is a great time to come together with other guests and share the day’s adventures. The Lion & the Rose is a place to visit for a little pampering.
1847 Blake House Inn. Moderate. 150 Royal Pines Drive in Arden, 28704 (888-353-5227 or 828-681-5227; www.blakehouse.com). Blake House was built in 1847 in the Italianate-Gothic style. It originally served as the summer home of a wealthy lowland rice planter. It also saw service as a field hospital during the Civil War. The restored mansion boasts 22-inch-thick granite walls, heart-pine floors, original English plaster moldings, seven fireplaces, covered porches, and a patio. Each room has fine linens, cable television, a telephone, and a private bath. This is also a rare bed-and-breakfast that welcomes children.
Places to Eat
Curra’s Dom. Expensive/Moderate. 72 Weaverville Highway, 28803 (828-253-2111; www.currasdom.com). Put this one in the GPS. A little off the beaten path but well worth it, the restaurant features authentic dishes from the interior of Mexico using local ingredients like homemade chorizo, duck, pasilla peppers, goat cheese, pipian verde, jicama, pork, beef, seafood, avocado, and a bunch of other things you’ve never heard of. Go with a sense of adventure, knowing that everything is prepared fresh. Don’t miss the gazpacho, prepared with heirloom tomatoes, fresh pineapple, and cucumber. Curra’s Dom even has an “Avocado Margarita”! Lunch and dinner are served Tuesday through Saturday; brunch is offered on Sunday. Reservations are strongly suggested.
Zambra. Expensive/Moderate. 85A Walnut Street, 28801 (828-232-1060; www.zambratapas.com). Zambra is Arabic for “flute.” It is also an apt description of the “music” of this restaurant. The food here is exquisite—exotic, roughly beautiful, and delicious. The menu features the tastes of Spain, Morocco, and Portugal. The fun, innovative, and extensive tapas selections change frequently according to availability and the whim of the chef. And don’t forget the wines, which hail from all over the world; guests have over 75 different Spanish and Portuguese vintages to choose from, as well as a wonderful list of ports and sherries. The eye-catching, comfortable Moroccan decor and the live entertainment make for a great evening. Dinner is served nightly; live entertainment is offered on Friday and Saturday.
Cafe on the Square. Moderate. 1 Biltmore Avenue, 28801 (828-251-5565). Overlooking historic Pack Square in the heart of downtown, this open, airy café is casual, yet elegant. It offers the freshest in produce, seafood, and meats. Lunch includes salads and a variety of sandwiches. Menu changes are frequent, so a trip here always offers something new. Shrimp étouffée and pork tenderloin with chipotle are among the dinner entrées. The café has an extensive wine list. Catering is available. Lunch is served Monday through Saturday and dinner daily.
Charlotte Street Grill and Pub. Moderate. 157 Charlotte Street, 28801 (828-253-5348 or 828-252-2948; www.charlottestreetgrill.com). Built in the early 1920s, this was northern Asheville’s first drugstore. “The Pub” opened in 1976; the offerings in this festive, intimate setting lean toward appetizers and sandwiches. The building was later enlarged to include fine dining upstairs at the Charlotte Street Grill, which offers an extensive menu featuring meats, seafood, and pasta and tofu dishes. Whether you prefer “The Grill” or “The Pub,” you will enjoy a unique and tasty dining experience here. Lunch and dinner are served Monday through Saturday.
Early Girl Eatery. Moderate. 8 Wall Street, 28801 (828-259-9292; www.earlygirleatery.com). The locals will tell you that no trip to Asheville is complete without a stop at Early Girl. The emphasis here is on healthy, made-from-scratch cuisine with a regional theme. Dishes range from house-made sausage, shrimp and grits, and “Vegan Tofu Scramble” in the morning to pan-fried chicken and “Black-Eyed Pea Cakes” at night. The folks at Early Girl believe in supporting local agriculture and work closely with nearby farms and dairies to bring guests the freshest ingredients possible. The atmosphere is comfortable, the food amazing, and the whole experience not soon forgotten. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served daily; a sumptuous Sunday brunch is also offered.
Flying Frog Café. Moderate. 1 Battery Park, 28801 (828-254-9411; www.flyingfrogcafe.com). Okay, how about this for different? This restaurant features French, Cajun, German, and Indian foods—and it works! The eclectic menu offers diverse specialties such as bouillabaisse, jambalaya, schnitzel, and crab cakes. All of the curries and delicious blends of seasonings and spices are prepared in-house. The extensive wine list reflects the café’s international flair. Al fresco dining is available in the sidewalk café and more formal dining at the café downstairs; the full menu is available at the bar upstairs. Lunch and dinner are served daily in the sidewalk café and the bar. Dinner is served downstairs from Wednesday to Sunday.
Mayfel’s. Moderate. 22 College Street, 28801 (828-252-8840; www.mayfels.net). Who says you can’t get good Cajun food in the mountains? This is the best you’ll find outside the bayou. All meals are made to order. The menu, which changes seasonally, takes advantage of as much of the local bounty as possible. Try the “Smoked Trout Spread” for a starter; it was featured in Bon Appétit. As for the entrées, you can’t go wrong with the jambalaya, the seafood étouffée, the shrimp and grits, or “Loretta’s Meat Loaf.” And yes, muffalettas and po’ boys are on the sandwich board. Vegetarians will find a wide variety of choices, too. Lunch is served Thursday through Monday and dinner Thursday through Sunday.
Tupelo Honey Café. Moderate. 12 College Street, 28801 (828-255-4863; www.tupelohoneycafe.com). This popular downtown eatery has it all. As part of Asheville’s emphasis on local food, the executive chef established his own 12-acre farm to provide natural pesticide-free ingredients for the restaurant. An upscale but casual environment invites you to sample the authentic Low Country– and New Orleans–style delights. The unique appetizers, fun sandwiches, and tasty entrées are all prepared in an open kitchen. Breakfast, served anytime, is every bit as enticing as dinner. Leave room for dessert; the “Buttermilk Cheesecake” is like silk. Breakfast and lunch are served Tuesday through Sunday and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations are not accepted.
Jack of the Wood. Moderate/Inexpensive. 95 Patton Avenue, 28801 (828-252-5445; www.jackofthewood.com). This is the place to go for authentic pub fare and handcrafted ales. An Asheville favorite for more than 10 years, Jack of the Wood offers everything from shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, and first-rate pub burgers to its highly acclaimed Green Man Ale. Throw in live Celtic, bluegrass, and traditional Appalachian music Wednesday through Saturday nights and you’ve got the makings for a great night out. The pub opens daily for dinner at 4 P.M.; a late-night menu is available after 10 P.M. Wednesday through Saturday.
Laughing Seed Café. Moderate/Inexpensive. 40 Wall Street, 28801 (828-252-3445; www.laughingseed.com). This popular downtown restaurant features a vegetarian menu that even meat lovers will find innovative and delicious. Pasta dishes, sandwiches, and daily specials are offered. You’ll find Mexican, Indian, Asian, Mediterranean, and New American accents in the cuisine. Outdoor dining is available when weather permits. The atmosphere is open and casual. This is a great place to take a break from exploring Asheville’s shops and boutiques. Lunch and dinner are served Wednesday through Monday.
Nearby
Black Mountain is a small community about 15 miles east of Asheville in the Swannanoa River Valley. The town has a history of attracting nonconformists and freethinkers. Oddly enough, it is also the center of the largest concentration of religious retreats in the United States; there are 20 in a 35-mile radius. Once a spiritual center for the Cherokee Indians, the area was the site of the experimental Black Mountain College from 1933 to 1956. Today, the town draws visitors who come to see the beautiful Montreat Conference Center and to enjoy shopping for crafts and antiques. To learn more, visit www.blackmountain.org.
When you’re ready for a bite to eat, Black Mountain offers a great variety of lunch and dinner spots. For lunch, try Veranda Café & Gifts, at 119 Cherry Street (28711), which offers a relaxing atmosphere and a delicious assortment of sandwiches, salads, soups, daily specials, and tempting desserts; call 828-669-8864 or visit www.verandacafeandgifts.com. Al fresco dining and pizza, anyone? Head for My Father’s Pizza, at 110 Cherry Street (28711), where you’ll find gourmet pizzas, pasta dishes, subs, stromboli, and salads, all made from scratch; call 828-669-4944 or visit www.myfatherspizza.com. Berliner Kindl German Restaurant, at 121 Broadway (28711), has everything from schnitzels to brats, along with a deli, so you can take some authentic delicacies home with you; call 828-669-5255. A seasonal fine-dining menu is offered at The Cellar Door, at 117 Cherry Street (28711); call 828-669-9090.
After a day of shopping, you’ll find no better way to unwind and ponder your purchases than a stay at the Red Rocker Inn, at 136 North Dougherty Street (28711). This favorite lodging and dining destination offers 17 comfortable, elegant guest rooms, each with a private bath. Twelve of the rooms are open year-round. Guests enjoy a mountain view from the red rockers lining the wide front porch. The Red Rocker Inn combines genuine hospitality, delicious Southern cuisine, and exceptional service. For information, call 888-669-5991 or 828-669-5991 or visit www.redrockerinn.com.
Weaverville, about 12 miles north of Asheville, is one of those quaint mountain towns just far enough from the bustle but close enough to everything the area has to offer. If you’re staying in town, try the Inn on Main Street, located at 88 South Main (28787). A beautiful Victorian home built in 1900, it offers seven guest rooms, some with fireplaces and whirlpool tubs. All have private baths, air conditioning, and cable TV. Rates include a full breakfast made from scratch and complimentary evening refreshments. For information, call 877-873-6074 or visit www.innonmain.com.
At 911 Reems Creek Road in Weaverville (28787) is the Zebulon B. Vance Homestead, a state historic site featuring a reconstruction of the mountain home of one of North Carolina’s preeminent statesmen. Vance is best known as North Carolina’s governor during the Civil War. The two-story pine-log home has period furniture, some of it from the original house, built in 1790. Among the log outbuildings are a corncrib, a springhouse, a loom house, a slave house, a smokehouse, and a tool-house. A guide is on hand to explain what life was like in the mountains for the Vances and other homesteaders. The visitor center offers displays that further illustrate the times. Guests are welcome to bring a picnic lunch to enjoy on the grounds. The homestead is open year-round Tuesday through Saturday from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. Admission is free. For information, call 828-645-6706 or visit www.nchistoricsites.org/vance/vance.htm.
Craggy Gardens, located between Milepost 363 and Milepost 369 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, isn’t really a garden at all. Instead, it’s an ideal place for viewing wide slopes bursting with mountain laurel and rhododendron in June and the incredible display of fall colors in October. Trails wind among trees, shrubs, and flowers. The picnic area commands a striking view of the Blue Ridge. The visitor center has displays on local ecology. Rangers occasionally present interpretive programs. For information, call 828-298-0398.
The most beautiful building in Asheville may be the Spanish Baroque–style St. Lawrence Basilica, at 97 Haywood Street (28801). The most striking feature of the church is its central dome, which is built wholly of tiles and is entirely self-supporting. Measuring 58 feet by 82 feet, it is reputed to be the largest freestanding elliptical dome in North America.
St. Lawrence Basilica is filled with bas-relief and other sculptures, stained-glass windows, ornately carved doors, and glazed tiles from all over the world; some of the wooden statues come from Spain and the stained-glass windows from Germany, for example. The beautiful altar is topped with an 1,800-pound block of Tennessee marble.
St. Lawrence Catholic Church was designated a basilica by Pope John Paul II in April 1993. The basilica designation is given to certain churches because of their antiquity, dignity, historical importance, or significance as places of worship. At that time, only 33 basilicas were in the United States. As a basilica, St. Lawrence has the privilege of displaying the pontifical seal. The dominant feature of the seal is a pair of crossed keys, which symbolize the keys to the Kingdom. Basilicas also have special responsibilities, such as promoting the study of the documents of the pope and the Holy See, especially those concerning the sacred liturgy. Additionally, a basilica has the responsibility to promote the participation of the faithful in the Mass and the Liturgy of the Hours, especially matins (morning prayers) and vespers (evening prayers).
St. Lawrence Basilica is the only church built by the renowned Rafael Guastavino. The massive stone foundation and the brick superstructure give silent testimony to the architect’s desire to construct an edifice that would endure for generations. There are no beams of wood or steel in the entire structure.
A visit to St. Lawrence Basilica offers a chance not only to view fine architecture, beautiful stained glass, and wonderful sculptures, but also to witness some of the sacred traditions of the Catholic Church that are not often on display in the modern world. For information, call 828-252-6042 or visit www.stlawrencebasilica.org.
