| Great Smoky Mounains National Park | |
| Bryson City | |
| Cherokee | |
| Maggie Valley | |
| Waynesville | |
| By Sue Clark |
Traveling west from Asheville, you’ll find the Blue Ridge Mountains in your rearview mirror and the Great Smoky Mountains ahead of you. The latter mountain range gets its name from the persistent haze that veils the rounded summits. These ancient mountains exude serenity while cloaking a rugged wilderness that, in many areas, remains untouched by modern hands.
Legend says the haze comes from a time when the Cherokees smoked the peace pipe with their enemies. The meeting continued for seven days, during which the parties continued to quarrel. The Great Spirit, becoming annoyed, turned the men into grayish white flowers called Indian pipes and made smoke cover the mountains to remind all men that they should live together in peace.
The scientific explanation is less interesting. It states that the haze is caused by an excess of oxygen and humidity created by the thick forestation. The oxygen and humidity mix with a microscopic mist of rosin-scented organic compounds called terpenes.
The Smokies are a naturalist’s paradise. They are home to more than 1,000 varieties of flowering plants and hundreds of species of mosses and trees. The Smokies contain the largest stand of old-growth hardwoods in North America. The diversity of plants and animals is unmatched anywhere in the country.
Fortunately, much of this magnificence has been incorporated into a well-loved national park to ensure that its wild beauty will be preserved. However, tourism has indeed intruded. Even so, these mountains are considered by many—this author included—to be the most beautiful part of North Carolina.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park
The Grand Canyon receives over 4 million visitors annually and Yosemite and Yellowstone over 3 million each. But it is Great Smoky Mountains National Park that has more visitors than any other national park—over 9 million each year. The park encompasses more than a half-million acres along 70 miles of the North Carolina–Tennessee border. It contains some of the oldest mountains on earth. Within the park are 16 peaks more than 6,000 feet high—and only one road cuts among them. Between the park entrances at Cherokee, North Carolina, and Gatlinburg, Tennessee, Newfound Gap Road twists and turns, revealing one spectacular view after another. During fall color season, this road is so congested that the crossing can take twice as long as it does other times.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park was authorized by an act of Congress in 1926, but that was the easy part. Raising money to buy the property was difficult, and negotiations were complex. Within the proposed boundaries of the park, 85 percent of the property was owned by 18 timber companies and the rest in tiny parcels by nearly 6,000 homesteaders. Years of appropriations and private contributions netted only $5 million—half the necessary funds. John D. Rockefeller, Jr., matched that amount, and the park finally opened to the public in 1934.
Natural beauty is not the only thing you’ll find here. More than 97 historic structures are maintained by the park. These include the log cabins, barns, mills, and stables of some of the families that settled in the mountains in the 19th century.
Ways to explore the park are endless. Those with only a little time can drive Newfound Gap Road, but they’ll miss much of the park. A smaller road leads up to Clingmans Dome, the highest peak in the park, at 6,643 feet; those who make the half-mile climb on foot to the observation tower will be rewarded with a stunning view of the Smokies. Those who enjoy hiking or horseback riding will appreciate the more than 800 miles of trails. Back-country camping is also a great way to explore these majestic mountains. Regardless of your preference for exploration, Great Smoky Mountains National Park will leave an impression on you that will last a lifetime.
The park’s busiest months are June, July, August, and October. At these times, the campgrounds are full and the roads accessing the park are crowded. It can get cool here even in summer, so remember to bring a jacket or sweater. Also note that the park gets 50 to 80 inches of rain annually, so rain gear should be part of your preparations. And one other word of warning: Bears roam this part of the country, and none of them is named Yogi. If you see one, enjoy watching it from a distance, but never attempt to feed it or entice it for a closer view.
JUST THE FACTS
Great Smoky Mountains National Park is 50 miles west of Asheville on U.S. 19. The North Carolina entrance is at the town of Cherokee. The Tennessee entrance is at Gatlinburg. Three visitor centers offer maps, guidebooks, museum displays, weather and road information, schedules of park activities (including ranger-guided walks and talks), and calendars of special events. The centers are open every day except Christmas. For information, write Great Smoky Mountains National Park at 107 Park Headquarters Road, Gatlinburg, Tenn. 37738. Or you can call 865-436-1200 or visit www.nps.gov/grsm.
Be sure to pick up a copy of Smokies Guide at one of the visitor centers. The official newspaper of the park, it is packed with information to make your visit the best possible.
Museums and Science Centers
The Mountain Farm Museum is located at the North Carolina entrance to the park. It consists of buildings typical of those found in the area around 1900. Corn is ground here every day; the meal is available for purchase at the water-powered Mingus Mill, located a half-mile north of the farmstead. For more information, call 828-497-1904 or visit www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/mfm.htm.
Cades Cove, on the Tennessee side of the park, is the site of a re-created pioneer mill community. Visitors can enjoy several cabins, three churches, and a mill. They can also drive the 11-mile loop around the settlement and the adjacent pastures, or stroll among the buildings and observe life as it was for the early settlers. Park rangers lead 30-minute guided walking tours daily during summer. A small bookstore offers material about the area and its history. After dark, old-fashioned hayrides delight the kids. The year-round campground has 159 sites.
Recreation
As with most outdoor recreation, information is the key to a great time. The park’s visitor centers and the rangers who staff them are the best sources for up-to-date information on recreational opportunities.
Hiking is almost a religion at Great Smoky Mountains National Park. An endless variety of trails serves hikers of every taste and ability. The grandfather of them all, of course, is the Appalachian Trail, which zigzags for 70 miles through the park on the crests of the mountains between Davenport Gap, near the eastern boundary, and Fontana Dam, in the southwest.
If you’re a serious hiker, you’ll need serious maps, available at the visitor centers. The Smokies Hiking Map and Guide includes an up-to-date hiking map and information on back-country campsites. Another reliable source is Hiking Trails of the Smokies, which describes every hike in the park.
Camping is also popular in the park.
A permit—available from the visitor centers—is required for back-country camping. Back-country camping is free but is allowed only at designated campsites along the trails. If you wish to camp in the shelters along the Appalachian Trail, reservations are required. For more information, call the back-country office at 865-436-1231.
The park also offers 10 developed campgrounds with water but no showers, electricity, or trailer hookups. A fee is charged for the use of these campgrounds. For information or reservations, call 877-444-6777 or visit www.recreation.gov. Most of the campgrounds close in November and reopen in mid-March. Two stay open year-round.
Those who enjoy picnicking will appreciate the park’s 10 picnic areas. Each has tables and fire grates. Please be aware of current fire conditions, and be conscientious about outdoor cooking. The same goes for trash, as no one wants four-footed guests crashing their party.
Horseback riding is offered through several licensed concession stables. Call 865-436-1200 for information.
Fishing for brown and rainbow trout is popular in park streams all year long. You must have either a North Carolina or a Tennessee fishing license, both of which are honored throughout the park regardless of which side of the border you’re on. Check with the visitor centers for regulations regarding size and catch limits.
Naturalist programs are offered by rangers from May to October at the developed campgrounds and the visitor centers. Some are talks, some involve short walks, and some are geared for children. Topics include wildflowers, hardwood trees, animal habitats, and pioneer life. For a special treat, consider one of the walks offered at sunset or twilight. Call 865-436-1200 for more information.
Please be aware of park rules and considerate of the visitors who will come after you. Park regulations prohibit littering, defacing natural features, picking wildflowers, digging up plants, feeding wildlife, and letting pets run loose.
Inns and Bed-and-Breakfasts
LeConte Lodge. Inexpensive. On top of Mount LeConte at 250 Apple Valley Road near Sevierville, Tenn. 37862 (865-429-5704; www.leconte-lodge.com). The only overnight facility inside the park, this lodge is accessible by a half-day hike. The premises are definitely rustic and the meals plain. Reservations are required. The lodge is open from late March through mid-November.
The county seat of Swain County, Bryson City shares a heritage with the Cherokee Indians, who once called this area home and still believe it to be the birthplace of the Cherokee people. The area has much to offer, including hiking, fishing, horseback riding, mountain biking, whitewater sports, camping, golf, a scenic railroad, and spectacular mountain vistas around every bend. Outside magazine named Bryson City one of the nation’s top 100 places for outdoor enthusiasts. Don’t worry if you’re not the adventurous type, though. Bryson City recalls a less complicated time when the locals used to “roll up the streets” at night, after which the air was filled with nothing more than the sounds of crickets and tree frogs.
JUST THE FACTS
Bryson City is located about an hour west of Asheville on U.S. 19 at the doorstep of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
The Chamber of Commerce is located at 210 Main Street (28713). For information, call 828-488-3681 or visit www.greatsmokies.com.
Recreation
Many people come to town for an excursion aboard the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad, headquartered at 226 Everett Street (28713). One of the trips that departs from nearby Dillsboro travels along the Tuckasegee River. This three-hour ride visits the setting of the escape scene at the beginning of The Fugitive, starring Harrison Ford. The railway was hired by the film company to stage a derailment with an actual full-sized train. The crew had only one shot at it, and it went perfectly. The remains of the wreck are featured on the excursion, which also includes the 836-foot-long Cowee Tunnel. Other excursions depart from Bryson City and Andrews. One of the Bryson City trips crosses Fontana Lake on a trestle 791 feet long and 179 feet high. The Great Smoky Mountains Railroad also offers raft-and-rail trips, special excursions such as a “Santa Train” in December, a whole week devoted to Thomas the Tank Engine rides featuring a full-sized Thomas kids absolutely love, and mystery and dinner excursions. Call 800-872-4681 or 828-586-8811 or visit www.gsmr.com for more information.
Nantahala Outdoor Center, at 13077 U.S. 19 West (28713), is the place to go for all kinds of rafting, hiking, and biking adventures. NOH can plan excursions just about anywhere in the southern mountains of North Carolina and Tennessee. The guides are friendly, knowledgeable, and dedicated to tailoring something just right for you and your family. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, NOH can plan an unforgettable mountain adventure that will keep you smiling for a long time. For information, call 888-905-7238 or 828-488-2176 or visit www.noc.com.
Places to Stay
Inns and Bed-and-Breakfasts
Hemlock Inn. Deluxe/Expensive. 911 Galbraith Creek Road, 28713 (828-488-2885; www.hemlockinn.com). This is a lovely one-level inn on a Great Smoky Mountains hilltop. If you sit in a rocker on the porch, all you’ll hear is the songs of the birds. The inn offers 22 rooms and three cottages furnished country-style. A favorite spot is the fireplace in the big family room, which boasts a breathtaking view of the mountains. This is a true getaway with no TVs or telephones in the rooms. Breakfast and dinner, included in the room rate, are served family-style at large tables with giant lazy Susans in the center. You can’t help getting friendly with the other guests as the food is passed and shared. The emphasis here is on an old-fashioned, relaxing vacation that encourages you to stop, unwind, and gaze upon the beauty around you.
Charleston Inn. Expensive. 208 Arlington Avenue, 28713 (888-285-1555 or 828-488-4644; www.charlestoninn.com). Located in the heart of the Great Smoky Mountains, the Charleston Inn is perfect for a romantic getaway, an exciting outdoor adventure, or a relaxing vacation. The inn offers modern rooms with king or queen beds, private baths, Jacuzzis, private decks, porches, air conditioning, cable TV, and wireless Internet. A full breakfast is served in the dining room each morning. Open year-round, this inn is a great jumping-off point for a mountain adventure.
Fryemont Inn. Moderate. 245 Fryemont Street, 28713 (800-845-4879 or 828-488-2159; www.fryemontinn.com). Built in 1923 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Fryemont Inn includes a beautiful poplar-bark-covered historic lodge with two enormous stone fireplaces, eight luxury fireplace suites, and a two-bedroom cabin. The dining room has been featured in national and regional publications. Except in winter, all rates include breakfast and dinner. The swimming pool, open in summer, is nestled in a grove of poplar and dogwood trees. The lodge and dining room are open from mid-April through Thanksgiving. The cabin and fireplace suites are open all year.
Places to Eat
Fryemont Inn Dining Room. Expensive. 245 Fryemont Street, 28713 (800-845-4879 or 828-488-2159; www.fryemontinn.com). The Fryemont Inn Dining Room has been featured in numerous magazines and publications, including Bon Appétit and Travel and Leisure. Built in 1923, it has a raftered ceiling, gleaming maple floors, and an enormous stone fireplace. Breakfast and dinner are served to inn guests; reservations from folks not staying in the inn are welcome. At breakfast, diners can choose from apple, blueberry, or pecan pancakes, French toast, omelets, biscuits and gravy, and all the favorite egg dishes. Dinner is a four-course meal that begins with the soup of the day and ends with a selection of wonderful cakes, pies, and cobblers. Entrées include prime rib, “Pecan-Crusted Trout in Lemon Cream,” and country ham with red-eye gravy. Each is served with three side dishes of the day, always homemade. Breakfast and dinner are served daily. Reservations are recommended.
Relia’s Garden. Moderate. In Nantahala Outdoor Center at 13077 U.S. 19 West, 28713 (800-232-7238 or 828-488-2175; www.noc.com). Located overlooking a garden of flowers and fresh herbs and featuring inspiring views and the rushing sounds of the Nantahala River, Relia’s offers an unforgettable mountain dining experience. Entrées include country fried steak, pan-seared trout, buttermilk fried chicken, and “Smoked Beef Brisket in Blueberry Barbecue Sauce.” The menu includes an innovative array of appetizers, salads, and desserts. Relia’s serves dinner daily during summer and Friday through Monday in spring and fall; it is closed in winter.
Everett Street Diner. Inexpensive. 126 Everett Street, 28713 (828-488-0123). Breakfast at this well-known local favorite features omelets, eggs to order, waffles, French toast, pancakes, and breakfast burritos. The lunch menu includes sandwiches, soups, and salads, all made fresh on the premises. The desserts are said to be “like Momma used to make,” so save room. Breakfast and lunch are served Monday through Friday.
Nearby
Fontana Dam is 35 miles west of Bryson City on N.C. 28. A project of the Tennessee Valley Authority during the early 1940s, the dam was built to fuel the effort for World War II. At 480 feet, it is the tallest dam in the eastern United States. Damming the Little Tennessee River created Fontana Lake, which takes up a sizable chunk of Swain County.
A few miles away at 50 Fontana Road/N.C. 28 North at the community of Fontana Dam (28733) is Fontana Village, a resort that grew from the housing units occupied by the workers who built the dam. Upon the dam’s completion in 1945, the housing development was sold to private owners, who turned it into a family resort village. The village includes an inn with 94 rooms (some of which have fireplaces) and 250 rustic cottages equipped with kitchens. A restaurant, a buffet house, and a café all serve meals to those who choose not to cook. Recreational activities include miniature golf, swimming, boating, fishing, hiking, horseback riding, archery, and badminton. A playground, craft classes, and other organized activities are available for children. The mountains that surround Fontana Lake make a magnificent setting for an extended family vacation. The village is open year-round. For more information, call 800-849-2258 or 828-498-2211 or visit www.fontanavillage.com.
West of Fontana Lake is Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, which contains one of the last stands of virgin forest on the East Coast. The forest is left completely to nature’s control; no plants or trees, living or dead, may be cut or removed. The result is a magnificent forest containing more than 100 species of trees, many specimens of which are over 300 years old. A two-mile recreation trail loops through the forest and the adjoining 14,000-acre Slickrock Wilderness Area. Fittingly, the forest is named for the author of the well-known poem “Trees.” Joyce Kilmer was still a young man when he was killed in France during World War I. To reach the forest named in his honor, take U.S. 129 North from Robbinsville and follow the signs. For information, call the Cheoah Ranger Station at 828-479-6431.
The town of Cherokee is the largest community in the Qualla Boundary, the almost 56,000 acres of reservation land held in trust for the Eastern Band of the Cherokee Nation. The Cherokees are one of the “Five Civilized Tribes” of Muskogean-speaking people. They were the first Indians to have a written language, created by Sequoyah in 1821. At one time, they were an extremely powerful nation, controlling a territory of 135,000 square miles that stretched from the Ohio River southward into parts of what are now Georgia and Alabama. The forced removal of the Cherokees to the Oklahoma Territory has come to be called “the Trail of Tears.” Several hundred Cherokees remained in the mountains during the removal. In 1866, they were finally granted the legal right to live in their homeland. About 8,200 members of the Eastern Band reside in communities throughout the Qualla Boundary today.
The town of Cherokee is undergoing some profound changes. Survival for the Native Americans used to depend on stereotypical tourist attractions that bore little resemblance to authentic Cherokee heritage. Ironically, the arrival of a large casino has pumped sorely needed revenue into the tribe. That revenue has been put to use improving the attractions that showcase the rich history and heritage of the Cherokee people.
JUST THE FACTS
Cherokee is located 48 miles west of Asheville at the intersection of U.S. 19 and U.S. 441. Just three miles north of Cherokee is the southern entrance to Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
The Cherokee Travel and Promotion Visitor Center is located at 498 Tsali Boulevard (28719). For information, call 800-438-1601 or 828-497-9195 or visit www.cherokee-nc.com.
The Cherokee One Feather is a weekly newspaper available throughout town.
Things to Do
Historic Places, Gardens, and Tours
Oconaluftee Indian Village, on Drama Road a half-mile north of U.S. 441, is a recreation of a Cherokee village as it was 250 years ago. Here, you can watch Cherokees making tools and decorations, carving weapons and cooking utensils, grinding corn, cooking, finger-weaving, making baskets and beadwork, and burning out dugout canoes. Cherokee guides escort visitors on a two-hour journey into the past. Visitors are welcome to linger, take pictures, and ask questions. One of the highlights of the tour is the seven-sided council house. Surrounding the village is a beautiful botanical garden with paths leading past mossy rocks, trickling water, and flower and vegetable gardens. The village is open daily from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. from May and October. Admission is charged except for children under five. For more information, call 866-554-4557 or 828-497-2111 or visit www.cherokee-nc.com/oconaluftee.
Museums and Science Centers
The Museum of the Cherokee Indian, at 589 Tsali Boulevard/U.S. 441 North (28719) at the intersection with Drama Road, was totally renovated in 1998. Its state-of-the-art exhibits trace the history of the Cherokees, honor outstanding individuals, and show examples of traditional arts and crafts. Artifacts and relics are presented in real-life settings of the time period. A seven-minute, three-screen, multi-sensory film presents the Cherokee creation story. In the exhibit halls, you can view maps of the Trail of Tears and read newspaper accounts of the removal. At the display on Sequoyah’s syllabary, you can listen to audio samplings of the language. The gift shop carries books and souvenirs. From September through May, the museum is open daily from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. From June through August, it is open from 9 A.M. to 7 P.M. Monday through Saturday and from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. on Sunday. Admission is charged except for children under five. Call 828-497-3481 or visit www.cherokee-nc.com/museum for more information.
Special Shopping
Qualla Arts and Crafts Mutual, Inc., at 645 Tsali Boulevard (28719), was organized by Native American craftsmen in 1946. It has grown into the most successful Indian-owned and -operated craft cooperative in the United States. Among the items for sale are handmade Cherokee baskets, beadwork, pottery, woodcarvings, masks, and dolls. One room displays crafts made by Indians of other tribes. From June through August, the cooperative is open from 8 A.M. to 7 P.M. Monday through Saturday and from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. on Sunday. From September to May, it is open from 8 A.M. to 5 P.M. daily. Call 828-497-3103 or visit www.cherokee-nc.com/qualla for more information.
Recreation
Harrah’s Cherokee Casino, located at 777 Casino Drive/U.S. 441 (28719), has brought a great deal of revenue to the Eastern Band. The size of three football fields, the casino features 2,300 video gaming machines, three restaurants, a gift shop, and even a day-care facility. Neon lightning bolts flash across the ceiling whenever someone wins a jackpot over $1,000; the sound of thunder means the jackpot’s even bigger. The 1,500-seat Cherokee Pavilion hosts live entertainment. The casino is where the action is 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Call 800-HARRAHS or 828-4977777 or visit www.harrahscherokee.com for more information.
Oconaluftee Islands Park, on Tsali Boulevard/U.S. 441 North, is an oasis in the middle of the bustle of Cherokee. The mile-long Oconaluftee River Trail links the park to nearby Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Along the trail are handicapped-accessible walkways and fishing piers, benches and picnic tables, natural landscaping, and a picnic shelter. Most of the trail is smoothly paved. At Oconaluftee Islands Park, the outside world disappears and pure play takes its place. Wading, splashing, tubing, salamander hunting, picnicking, and lots of other opportunities for R and R are completely free here.
Fishing is popular around Cherokee. The streams and ponds on the reservation are stocked and overseen by Cherokee Fish and Game Management. While you don’t need a state fishing license, you must purchase a tribal fishing permit, available at convenience stores, campground offices, and other locations throughout town. Call 828-497-5201 for more information.
Seasonal Events
Unto These Hills is performed at the 2,800-seat Mountainside Theatre on U.S. 441. This play by Kermit Hunter is the most popular outdoor drama in the state. It uses words and music to tell the story of the Trail of Tears. Performances are staged Monday through Saturday from mid-June to late August. The preshow starts at 7 P.M. and the drama at 7:30 P.M. Admission is charged. For more information, call 866-554-4557 or visit www.cherokee-nc.com.
The town of Cherokee has a number of motels, rental cabins, and lodges, many of them along the Oconaluftee River. The arrival of the casino has brought many of the major chain hotels.
Inns and Bed-and-Breakfasts
Snowbird Mountain Lodge. Deluxe. 4633 Santeetlah Road in Robbinsville, 28771 (800-941-9290 or 828-479-3433; www.snowbirdlodge.com). This rustic mountain inn, built of chestnut logs and native stone, offers an excellent view of the Snowbird range from its terrace. But that doesn’t begin to describe the experience. Upon arrival, guests are greeted in a massive but cozy front room where refreshments are available. The rooms and suites are luxuriously appointed and meant to help guests unwind. No phones or TVs are in the rooms. Guests can enjoy tennis, basketball, hiking trails, a screened reading deck, fountains, porches, and even a sunrise deck complete with a Japanese-temple-style prayer bell. And the food? Room rates include a four-course dinner that changes nightly and emphasizes local ingredients and exciting flavors. Breakfast, every bit as sumptuous, provides all the fuel needed for the day’s adventures. And that’s not all. When you are seated for dinner, you’ll be given a lunch menu for the next day. In the morning, your lunch will be packed and ready for you to take on your excursions. The staff is knowledgeable about the area and more than willing to help with everything from hiking to kayaking to fishing and more. The Snowbird also offers classes ranging from watercolor painting to pottery. This is truly an all-inclusive resort.
Places to Eat
The Chestnut Tree. Moderate/Inexpensive. In the Holiday Inn Cherokee at 37 Tsaligi Road/U.S. 19 South in Cherokee, 28719 (828-497-9181). This is about the fanciest restaurant in Cherokee. It features mountain trout, steaks, chicken, and a good selection of sandwiches. It is open for breakfast and dinner Monday through Saturday and for all three meals on Sunday.
Grandma’s Pancake and Steak. Inexpensive. On U.S. 19 at U.S. 441 in Cherokee, 28719 (828-497-9801). Grandma’s is a casual family restaurant where you can get a great old-fashioned country breakfast any time of day and steak, shrimp, barbecue, flounder, and chicken for lunch and dinner. It features local favorites like “Indian Tacos,” “Chili and Frybread,” and mountain trout. Grandma’s offers home-style vegetables and slow-cooked pinto beans seasoned with country ham and served with cornbread muffins. From June through October, it serves all three meals every day. The rest of the year, it serves breakfast and lunch Monday through Thursday and all three meals on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.
The Trail of Tears
The facts are staggering: Some 14,000 Cherokees were forced to leave their ancestral home with whatever they could carry; they were led to the Oklahoma Territory in 20-plus separate detachments, many traveling in the dead of winter; no exceptions were made for the elderly, the sick, the pregnant, or the very young; approximately 20 percent died on the way.
In one of the most shameful episodes in this nation’s history, the United States government decided to break numerous treaties with the Cherokees of the Blue Ridge and Great Smoky mountains. In 1828, President Andrew Jackson put through Congress the Indian Removal Act, which commanded that all Indians be led west of the Mississippi River. Cherokee land was confiscated when gold was discovered in the Appalachians. The 1835 Treaty of New Echota provided the Cherokees $5 million and land in what is now Oklahoma in exchange for their 7 million acres in the East. But by May 1838, only 2,000 of the 16,000 Cherokees had moved voluntarily. General Winfield Scott and a force of 7,000 men were sent to evict the remaining Indians. The tragedy that transpired eventually came to be called the Trail of Tears.
First, stockades were built to hold the Indians. Then small squads armed with rifles and bayonets were sent out to round up every Cherokee they could find. No time was allotted for packing—men were seized in the fields and women and children from their homes. The soldiers prodded and drove the Indians to the stockades. Behind the soldiers came bands of looters, who pillaged and burned the Cherokees’ former homes.
From the time the detachments left the stockades, the 1,200-mile trek took as long as six months. The average distance covered was 10 miles a day. The Cherokees stopped only to bury those who died along the way—of disease, starvation, and exhaustion.
The numbers are indeed stark, but they do little to explain man’s cruelty to man. When greed intercedes, there seems no end to the damage one people can inflict upon another.
Maggie Valley, a resort community at the base of the Balsam Mountains, was named for the daughter of the town’s first postmaster. It is four miles from the Blue Ridge Parkway and 16 miles from Cherokee and the entrance to Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Maggie Valley has a permanent population of about 200, but that number swells in summer, when tourists stay in the many motels along U. S. 19/Main Street and visit the Stompin’ Ground. Cataloochee Ski Area is the big attraction during winter.
JUST THE FACTS
Maggie Valley is on U.S. 19 about 30 miles west of Asheville.
The Maggie Valley Chamber of Commerce is located at 2511 Soco Road (28751); call 828-926-1686 or visit www.maggievalley.com for information.
The newspaper that covers this area is Waynesville’s Enterprise Mountaineer, which also puts out a tabloid of regional activities and advertising called Adventure in the Smokies.
Things to Do
Recreation
The wooden stage of the Stompin’ Ground comes alive with professional clogging teams dancing to Appalachian music provided by fiddlers, guitar strummers, and banjo pickers. This is a great place to experience the folk dancing unique to the Appalachians. The audience is encouraged to participate, so don’t be afraid to try clogging, line dancing, or even waltzing. The Stompin’ Ground is located at 3116 Soco Road/U.S. 19 (28751). Its hours vary according to the performance schedule. An admission fee is charged. Call 828-926-1288 for more information.
As of this writing, Ghost Town in the Sky, located at 10 Fie Top Road (28751), is once again offering tourists a day of Wild West fun. Ghost Town opened in 1961 as a theme park to mimic old towns of the American West. For over 40 years, it has offered rides fit for the youngest buckaroos to the bravest outlaws. It also features staged gunfights, live music, games, food, crafts, and more. A chair lift transports guests to the top of Buck Mountain, where their day of unabashed, good old-fashioned fun begins. For more information, call 800-GHOST-TOWN or visit www.ghosttowninthesky.com.
Cataloochee Ski Area, located at 1080 Ski Lodge Road (28751), was the first ski resort in North Carolina when it was built in 1961. It was so successful that it spawned a new industry. Now, ski areas dot the mountains from here to the Virginia border. Cataloochee’s lodge and restaurant have a friendly atmosphere where families are welcome. The ski area has 14 slopes and a vertical drop of 740 feet. Ski instruction and equipment rental are available. Call 800-768-0285 or 828-926-0285 or visit www.cataloochee.com for more information.
Seasonal Events
Folkmoot USA is a 10-day cultural event in July that features traditional dance groups from all over the world. It is hosted in several western North Carolina cities. Folkmoot’s Maggie Valley performances are held at the Stompin’ Ground. For information and a calendar of performances, call 877-FOLKUSA or 828-452-2997 or visit www.folkmoot.com.
Places to Stay
Resorts, Hotels, and Motels
Cataloochee Ranch. Deluxe. 119 Ranch Drive in Maggie Valley, 28751 (800-868-1401 or 828-926-1401; www.cataloocheeranch.com). Located atop a mountain overlooking Maggie Valley, this is a special place with spectacular views. The lodge is rustic but well appointed. The staff is attentive to every detail. The seven cabins and two lodges contain 22 units with pine paneling and quilts on the beds. Horseback riding is the main activity here, but hiking trails and trout fishing are also offered. Rocking on the front porch and sitting before the fireplace in the lodge are also popular ways to spend time at Cataloochee Ranch. Generous country-style breakfasts and dinners, served April through November, are included in the room rate. The ranch is open year-round.
Maggie Valley Resort and Country Club. Deluxe/Expensive. 1919 Country Club Drive in Maggie Valley, 28751 (www.maggievalleyclub.com; 800-438-3861 or 828-926-1616). This resort is located a half-mile west of the intersection of U.S. 19 and U.S. 276 in a lush setting with a mountain backdrop. It offers 40 comfortable rooms, 11 private villas, 21 luxurious condominiums, a championship golf course, and an outdoor pool. Golf packages are available. The breakfast buffet and dinner, served in the resort’s restaurant, are included in the room rate. Lunch is offered in the Pin High Lounge.
Inns and Bed-and-Breakfasts
The Swag Country Inn. Deluxe. 2300 Swag Road in Waynesville, 28785 (800-789-7672 or 828-926-0430; www.theswag.com). The Swag has earned a reputation as one of the most exclusive inns in the mountains. The drive to the top of its private peak is breathtaking. The rustic inn is made of hand-hewn logs taken from original Appalachian structures. The inn has a private entrance to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, an indoor racquetball court, a spring-fed swimming pond, and 250 acres of secluded land to explore. Special programs are offered throughout summer. The Swag is open from May through mid-November.
Jonathan Creek Inn and Villas. Expensive/Moderate. 4324 Soco Road in Maggie Valley, 28751 (800-577-7812 or 828-926-1232; www.jonathancreekinn.com). At first glance, this looks like many of the motels in Maggie Valley, but check deeper. The 44 spacious, comfortable rooms have back doors that open onto Jonathan Creek. They also have refrigerators, microwaves, and coffee makers. Some have whirlpools, hot tubs, fireplaces, and wet bars. The seven villas are an option for those desiring even more privacy. The beautifully landscaped grounds include several garden areas, hammocks, a picnic area, and a gazebo. The inn has an indoor heated pool.
Smokey Shadows Lodge. Moderate/Inexpensive. Fie Top Road (P.O. Box 444) in Maggie Valley, 28751 (866-926-0001 or 828-926-0001; www.smokeyshadows.com). The 12 guest rooms at this primitive-style lodge have chestnut paneling and beam ceilings. A separate cabin sleeps six. The long porch that extends across the back of the building offers a magnificent view. The country gourmet meals, not included in the room rate, don’t leave anyone hungry. Smokey Shadows is open year-round.
Maggie Valley Resort and Country Club. Expensive/Moderate. 1919 Country Club Road in Maggie Valley, 28751 (828-926-1616; www.maggievalleyclub.com). This is as fine a dining experience as you’ll find in Maggie Valley. From freshly prepared eggs to homemade Belgian waffles, the breakfast buffet is the perfect way to start your day. You may wish to relax and enjoy a refreshing drink or light fare on the resort’s scenic Clubhouse Terrace or in the quaint Pin High Lounge. A delicious lunch buffet is offered Monday through Friday. In the evening, you can feast on mountain trout, prime rib, chicken, and seafood in Season’s Restaurant. The resort’s restaurants are open daily to the public.
J. Arthur’s Restaurant. Moderate. 2843 Soco Road in Maggie Valley, 28751 (828-926-1817; www.jarthurs.com). The big, rambling, ranchlike building that houses J. Arthur’s welcomes families, who flock here after a full day of touring. Prime rib and steak are the specialties, but you’ll find some surprises like “Gorgonzola Cheese Salad,” too. Kids can satisfy their appetites with a range of burgers and sandwiches. The restaurant serves dinner daily in summer and from Wednesday through Saturday in winter.
Snappy’s. Moderate. 2769 Soco Road in Maggie Valley, 28751 (828-926-6126).
Snappy’s is an unpretentious, comfortable restaurant that prides itself on serving the best pizza and Italian food in the area. It makes its own dough and sauce and blends its own cheeses to produce the kind of fare you would expect in more upscale locales. The portions are huge and the staff efficient and friendly. The menu also features appetizers, soups, salads, burgers, sandwiches, and just about every type of Italian entrée you can imagine. After dinner here, you’re likely to leave with a doggie bag and a smile of satisfaction. Snappy’s serves lunch and dinner from Monday through Saturday year-round. From May through October, it also serves Sunday dinner.
Butts on the Creek. Inexpensive. 1584 Soco Road in Maggie Valley, 28751 (828-926-7885). If you’re a sucker for a catchy name, this one will certainly catch you. The “butts” here are pork butts slowly smoked to barbecued perfection. The “creek” refers to Jonathan Creek, which runs alongside the property. You can’t get much closer to nirvana than sinking your teeth into great food while gazing at a babbling mountain stream. This place has that and more. Butts is open from April through November. It serves lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.
Waynesville is an ideal mountain town. It doesn’t have a manufactured tourist destination or a large business district. What it offers is a chance to get away from it all and still be close enough to visit area attractions. The downtown boasts a wonderful selection of retail shops, galleries, and restaurants. The streets are lined with shade trees and comfortable benches.
Waynesville plays host to a variety of street festivals in summer and fall. The entertainment at these outdoor celebrations includes parades, dance exhibitions, and craft displays. Thanks to plenty of charm and just the right amount of activity, Waynesville may become one of your favorite mountain getaways.
JUST THE FACTS
Waynesville is located at the intersection of U.S. 74 and U.S. 276 west of Asheville.
The Haywood County Chamber of Commerce, at 591 North Main Street (28786), is the place to go for information about the town. Call 877-456-3073 or 828-456-3021 or visit www.haywood-nc.com. You can also get information from the Downtown Association by calling 828-456-3517.
Waynesville’s newspaper, the Enterprise Mountaineer, is published three times a week. The paper puts out Adventure in the Smokies, a tabloid of regional activities and advertising.
Things to Do
Museums and Science Centers
The Museum of North Carolina Handicrafts, at 49 Shelton Street (28786), houses a fascinating collection of pottery, porcelain, baskets, woodcarvings, and turned bowls. Other treasures include hand-carved dulcimers, quilts, and a collection of Cherokee crafts and artifacts. The museum’s gift shop sells a variety of crafts. An admission fee is charged. From May through October, the museum is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 A.M. to 4 P.M.; call for winter hours. The number is 828-452-1551.
Special Shopping
Waynesville is one of those great mountain towns that entice you to stroll, browse, and shop. Main Street and the adjacent side streets offer hand-crafted furniture, galleries, boutiques, antiques, garden accessories, kitchen tools, clothing, books, and more.
The Mast General Store and Candy Barrel, at 55 North Main Street (28786), is familiar to anyone who visits North Carolina’s mountains. The original store is in Valle Crucis, but many locations may be found from Boone to Hendersonville. Stop in to browse a wide variety of goods ranging from sweaters to cast-iron skillets. Of course, the kids won’t let you leave without a visit to the Candy Barrel. The old-fashioned candies draw as many customers looking for nostalgia as people in search of a sweet morsel. Everyone enjoys browsing the bins for treats they haven’t seen since childhood. The Mast General Store is open seven days a week; call 828-452-0075.
Seasonal Events
Local festivities include the Smoky Mountain Folk Festival, the High Country Quilt Show, the Apple Harvest Festival, and the Church Street Arts and Crafts Show. Check with the visitor center or the Downtown Association for information on these events.
Folkmoot USA, held during July, is a 10-day festival featuring international dance performances by guest groups from all over the world. Many of the performances are in Waynesville. This festival, over 15 years old, is recognized as one of the finest gatherings of international dancers in the country. Call 877-FOLKUSA or 828-452-2997 or visit www.folkmoot.com for more information.
Inns and Bed-and-Breakfasts
The Windover Inn Bed and Breakfast. Deluxe/Expensive. 117 Old Hickory Street in Waynesville, 28786 (866-452-4411; www.windoverinn.com). Built in 1910, this late-Victorian home has original woodwork and hardwood floors that provide comfort from the moment you enter. Each room is lovingly decorated. Amenities include luxurious pillow top mattresses, fine linens, soothing whirlpool tubs, and romantic candlelit fireplaces. The inn offers warm, relaxing common areas for reading, conversation, and puzzles and games. Guests are invited to unwind along the garden footpath, on the wraparound porch, in the gazebo swing, or at the firepit. Coffee and tea are available on all three floors for guests to enjoy anytime. The room rate includes a delicious home-cooked breakfast with fruit, baked goodies, and entrées such as French toast, waffles, and quiche.
Balsam Mountain Inn. Expensive. Off U.S. 23/74 at 68 Seven Springs Drive in Balsam, 28707 (828-456-9498; www.balsaminn.com). This restored historic place is located a half-mile from the Blue Ridge Parkway. Opened in 1908 to serve the highest railway depot east of the Rockies, the inn offers beautiful mountain views from its two-tiered porch. It has 50 comfortable rooms with private baths, a library containing 2,000-plus volumes, a card-and-puzzle room, and a spacious lobby with two fireplaces. You won’t find telephones in the rooms or a single television in the entire inn. The room rate includes a full country breakfast. The inn’s restaurant serves breakfast and dinner Monday through Friday and all three meals on Saturday and Sunday.
Waynesville Country Club Inn. Expensive. 176 Country Club Road in Waynesville, 28786 (800-627-6250 or 828-452-2258; www.wccinn.com). This is one of Waynesville’s most elegant lodgings. The three-story 1920s fieldstone inn is set against densely wooded mountains. Its 115 luxurious guest rooms offer views of the mountains or the 27-hole golf course. Tennis courts and a heated outdoor pool are on the premises. The wood-paneled dining room is open for all three meals. In-season rates include breakfast and dinner.
Mountain Creek Bed-and-Breakfast. Moderate. 146 Chestnut Walk Drive in Waynesville, 28786 (800-557-9766 or 828-456-5509; www.mountaincreekbb.com). Finally, a bed-and-breakfast that’s not filled with Victorian lace and antiques! The proprietors call the decor at Mountain Creek “retro 50s,” and it’s a refreshing and comfortable change of pace. A former corporate retreat lodge, the main house is situated above a rock-lined pond that makes for a beautiful view from the wraparound porch and the window-lined den. The renovated pool house includes a Jacuzzi suite. The innkeepers are outdoor enthusiasts who will help organize hikes and bike trips. The room rate includes a gourmet breakfast prepared by a truly talented cook. Guests can arrange for an equally delicious special dinner.
Places to Eat
Balsam Mountain Inn. Expensive. Off U.S. 23/74 at 68 Seven Springs Drive in Balsam, 28707 (828-456-9498; www.balsaminn.com). The chef at Balsam prepares American cuisine to the highest standards, utilizing the bounty of local farms as well as fresh seafood from the Atlantic. The menu is constantly evolving according to the season and the availability of ingredients. Appetizers include “Smoked Trout Blini Stack,” baked Brie, and fried green tomatoes. Entrées like “Coconut-Crusted Salmon,” “Grilled Venison Loin with Blueberry and Port Wine Compote,” and “Porkchops with Calvados” are equally mouth-watering. And just when you think you’ve been pampered enough, the waiter shows up with a dazzling array of desserts. Balsam Mountain Inn’s cuisine has garnered many awards, most recently a perfect score from Southern Living for its shrimp and grits. The inn serves breakfast and dinner Monday through Friday and all three meals Saturday and Sunday. Reservations are recommended.
Lomo Grill and Lomo’s Bakery and Café. Expensive/Moderate. 44 Church Street in Waynesville, 28786 (828-452-5222; www.lomogrill.com). Lomo Grill features authentic Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. Here, the finest meats are grilled in a wood-burning oven. The dining room’s romantic ambiance complements the award-winning food and one of the finest wine cellars in the area. Lomo’s Bakery and Café is patterned in the French style. Its delicious right-out-of-the-oven goodies include breads, pastries, and gourmet cookies. You can also enjoy specialty sandwiches, vegetarian entrées, homemade soups, unique quiches, and beautifully prepared salads. Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday.
Ceviche’s on Main. Moderate. 128 North Main Street in Waynesville, 28786 (828-246-0800). This is the perfect spot to stop while strolling downtown. Ceviche’s menu is an eclectic mix of Mediterranean, Mexican, Tuscan, and American foods. Here, you’ll find hummus, smoked trout dip, ceviche (of course), crab cakes, taco salads, Asian salads, grilled veggie sandwiches, black bean burgers, meat loaf, a “Cuban Bowl,” penne pasta, tamales, and a wrap called “Red Hot & Blue.” A full-service bar is offered. Ceviche’s serves lunch and dinner daily.
Maggie’s Galley. Moderate. 49 Hal Miller Road in Waynesville, 28786 (828-456-8945). When it comes to food—especially seafood—this place has it all. The appetizers include such treats as alligator, crawdads, onion straws, and nachos. The selection of main courses is just as eclectic: Hawaiian shrimp, North Carolina rainbow trout, the “Gator Dinner,” and frog legs, as well as rib-eye steaks served with snow crab, lobster tail, or shrimp. Be sure to save room for dessert, when you’ll get to choose from the likes of black walnut pie and “Coca-Cola Cake.” Maggie’s Galley serves dinner daily and lunch Tuesday through Sunday.
Pasquale’s Pizzeria & Tapas Bar. Moderate. 1863 South Main Street in Waynesville, 28786 (828-454-5002). Great Italian food, a cozy bar that serves tapas, and a deck for al fresco dining combine for a memorable experience at Pasquale’s. The restaurant serves Old World appetizers such as “Artichokes with Prosciutto,” classic pizzas and calzones, and pasta, chicken, beef, and seafood entrées, all with an Italian flair. Dinner comes with a fresh salad tossed at your table and breadsticks perfect for getting every bit of sauce from your plate. Pasquale’s is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday.
Bogart’s. Moderate/Inexpensive. 303 South Main Street in Waynesville, 28786 (828-452-1313; www.bogartswaynesville.com). This casual restaurant and tavern really hits its groove at night, when it gets pretty lively. The rustic interior is highlighted by stained-glass windows. Diners may choose from a good selection of burgers and sandwiches, as well as rainbow trout, stir-fried chicken, and sirloin tips. Lunch and dinner are served daily.
Whitman’s Bakery and Sandwich Shoppe. Inexpensive. 18 North Main Street in Waynesville, 28786 (828-456-8271). This bakery has been serving downtown shoppers delectable goodies since 1945. The name Whitman (my maiden name) drew me in, but the aroma held me. The items I sampled were fresh, delicious, and deserving of such a fine name. Let me personally recommend the butter cookies with the pastel centers. Sandwiches are prepared to order by the friendly, inviting staff. Lunch is offered Tuesday through Saturday.