Chapter 4 Traveling

4.01 Riding Subways and Trains

4.02 Buying Express Train Tickets

4.03 Canceling a Train Reservation

4.04 Missing a Train

4.05 On the Train

4.06 Renting a Car

4.07 Asking for Road Directions

4.08 Calling for Help

4.09 Planning a Trip

4.10 Confirming a Room Reservation

4.11 Asking the Way

4.12 Asking Where to Go

4.13 Using the In-house Telephone

4.14 The Hot Spring

4.15 Public Holidays in Japan

4.16 Words and Expressions

Chapter4

Traveling

Traditional japanese hospitality, a safe and secure environment, no tipping, and a hugely reliable transportation system make travelling in Japan reasonably trouble-free. But make sure you get the timing right. Avoid the peak periods of New Year, Golden Week and the Bon Festival when trains and accommodation need to be booked months in advance and roads are heavily congested. Choose the season carefully too.

The best times are May and November, when the weather is settled and temperatures comfortable. In May the cherry blossoms are over but azaleas and fresh green leaves abound. In November red maples are stunning against clear blue skies. Sightseeing in the summer is physically demanding. With temperatures over 85°F/30°C and high humidity you’ll need to pace yourself, allowing extra time for stops in air conditioned coffee shops, etc. At least the sights won’t be crowded. Winters are severe in the north of the country and in the mountains— although winter sports and festivals have their attractions.

Obviously you should book ahead in peak season. Sightseers crowd the tourist areas and huge groups of schoolchildren tour the famous sights in spring and fall. Especially when the cherry blossoms are in flower or when the autumn colors reach their peak, accommodation even for weekdays may be hard to find in popular tourist places like Kyoto.

If you’re visiting from abroad, get a Japan Rail Pass, an excellent deal but only available to visitors on a tourist visa. It not only gives you unlimited travel on the rail network (including the bullet trains) for periods of one, two, or three weeks but also dispenses with the troublesome task of buying tickets. They cannot be purchased in Japan, so buy the voucher before you leave home.

If you don’t have a rail pass, you’ll need to familiarize yourself with the system for buying tickets and making reservations. The passenger ticket (jōshaken) is all you need to travel on subways, commuter trains, and non-express trains. But if you travel long distance on express trains like the bullet trains, you’ll also need to buy an “express” ticket (tokkyūken). With these two tickets, you board the cars marked jiyūseki (unreserved) and sit in any available seat. You can also pay a small extra charge to reserve a seat in a reserved carriage or a hefty surcharge to travel in luxury in the “green car.” Much cheaper are long distance buses, which can be booked on the internet.

Another boon for travellers to Japan is the coin locker. Located at stations everywhere, for a few hundred yen you can dump your baggage for the day and travel lightly. When planning your trip, consider bringing several bags that you can pack into a coin locker, rather than a suitcase.

There’s a wide range of accommodation to choose from and you can find information and make bookings on the internet. You can stay at a regular hotel, or a ryokan, a Japanese inn where you sleep on futon bedding laid out on the tatami mats after dinner. As a rule, breakfast and dinner are included in the price, which is calculated per person, although things are changing and in some places you may be able to eat out.

Cheaper alternatives include the minshuku, a family-run guest-house, and the penshon (from the French, pension) where sleeping is in beds, and dinner and breakfast are usually Western-style. Another option is the business hotel. Although lacking in character, they provide a clean bed at a reasonable price and, since meals are not included, they offer you more flexibility for scheduling your time.

You might be intrigued by the idea of staying at one of the many temples nationwide that allow a traveler to stay overnight (shukubō). Besides offering a glimpse into Buddhist life, these temples are often oases of quiet. Some temples specialize in serving vegan temple cuisine; others may offer a simple meal.

And finally, there are youth hostels, which are very reasonable, but you might have to apply well in advance.

Traditionally many people's idea of a good rest is a few days away from it all at a rustic hot spring (onsen). Because the different minerals in the water are recommended for various, often chronic, ailments, people used to spend several weeks at a hot spring. In recent times, an overnight stay, often in a group, is more common. Many people bathe from three to five times during an overnight stay.

Some ryokan allow non-guests use of the bath during the day, either just the bath or a package that includes lunch and the use of a room for a few hours. So if you are caught on a cold and rainy day, why not give up on sightseeing and take a soothing bath instead?

There’s no great mystique about onsen etiquette: just sit on a stool and scrub yourself thoroughly before you try the different baths. Be warned though, some places haven’t caught up with the fashion for tattooes, and you could be asked to leave as a suspected yakuza! If this applies to you, cover up.

4.01 Riding Subways and Trains

If you cannot read the fare tables for riding subways or commuter trains, buy the cheapest ticket and pay the difference at the fare adjustment machine when you reach your destination. Ask for the platform you want like this:

• Sumimasen. Shinjuku-yuki wa nanban-sen desu ka?
すみません。新宿行きは何番線ですか。
Excuse me. From what platform can I get the train headed for Shinjuku?

On the platform, to make sure you are waiting for the right train, you can go up to a passenger or a station official and ask:

• Ochanomizu de tomarimasu ka?
御茶ノ水で止まりますか。
Does this train stop at Ochanomizu?

When you reach your stop in a crowded train, push your way to the exit while saying:

• Sumimasen. Orimasu.
すみません。降ります。
Excuse me! I’m getting off!

4.02 Buying Express Train Tickets

You can book tickets online (in several languages) or buy tickets at machines, which have an English language option. If you’re stuck, stand in line to speak to a representative.

KIM:

Tsugi no hikari de Kyōto made ichimai kudasai.

次のヒカリで京都まで一枚ください。

One ticket to Tokyo on the next Hikari bullet train, please.

TICKET SELLER:

Man’in desu ne. Nijū-roppun nara seki ga arimasu ga.

満員ですね。26分なら席がありますが、

The train’s full. But there are seats on the (one leaving at) twenty-six minutes past.

KIM:

Jā, o-negai shimasu.

じや、お原貝ハします。

OK. I’ll take that.

TICKET SELLER:

Jōshaken mo?

乗車券も？

Do you want a passenger ticket as well?

KIM:

Hai.

はい„

Yes.

TICKET SELLER:

Kaeri no kippu wa dō shimasu ka?

帰りの切符はどうします力、。

What do you want to do about a return ticket?

KIM:

Kaeri no jikan ga mada wakaranai no de, jiyūseki ni shite kudasai.

帰りの時間がまだ分かないので、自由席にしてください。

I don’t know yet what time I’ll be returning, so make it unre-served.

TICKET SELLER:

Sore de wa, iki no jōshaken, tokkyūken, shiteiseki. Kaeri no jōshaken to tokkyūken. Zenbu de niman rokusen-en ni narimasu.

それでは、行きの乗車券、特急券、指定席。帰りの乗車券 と特急券。全部で26,000円になります。

So, for the outgoing journey (here is) the passenger ticket, the express ticket and a reserved seat. For the return, the passenger ticket and the express ticket. That will be 26,000 yen.

4.03 Canceling a Train Reservation

There’s a small charge for canceling a reservation at least two days before the train leaves, more if you wait until later.

• Jūichi-nichi, gozen ku-ji no Hiroshima-yuki no Nozomi o yo -yaku shitan’ desu ga, kyanseru shinakereba naranai no de, harai-modoshi ga dekimasu ka?
11日午前9時、広島行きののぞみを予約したんですが、キャ ンセルしなければならないので、払い戻しができますか。
I have reservations for the Nozomi bullet train on the eleventh at 9 in the morning, but I have to cancel it. Can I get a refund?

4.04 Missing a Train

If you miss your train, ask a station official if you can ride the next train.

• Ressha ni noriokurete shimatta. Kono kippu nara tsugi ni noremasu ka?
列車に乗り遅れてしまった。この切符なら、次に乗れますか。
I missed the train. Can I go on the next train with these tickets?

4.05 On the Train

Once you’ve boarded the train, find a seat and get something to eat and drink. Don’t miss out on the bentō or lunch boxes. Traditionally each station had its own speciality, the ekiben, and it’s fun to try them out. The makunouchi (lit. lunch to eat in the interval) has a long history and consists of white rice with titbits of grilled fish, omelette and vegetables.

• Aite’masu ka?
空いてますか。
Is this seat free?

• Sumimasen. Hotto futatsu kudasai.
すみません。ホット二つください。
Excuse me. Two hot coffees, please.

• O-cha to o-bentō kudasai. Dō iu mono, aru ka na?
お茶どお弁当ください。どういうもの、あるかな。
Green tea and a box lunch, please. What kind do you have?

• Makunouchi toka, tonkatsu toka. Unagi, o-sushi. Iro iro arimasu.
幕の内ど力、、どんかつど力、。うなぎ、おすし。いろいろあります。
Mixed selection and fried pork cutlet. Grilled eel, sushi. All kinds.

4.06 Renting a Car

If you use one of the big national companies, you can make a reservation on the internet (in Japanese) or phone in English. Travel agents and the train companies also offer good deals on car rentals. Max goes along to a company near his home.

MAX:

Konnichiwa. Tōka, jūichi-nichi, futsukakan kuruma o karitain’ desu ga.

こんにちは。10日、11日、二日間、車を借りたいんです力\

Hi. I’d like to rent a car for two days, the 10th and 11th.

SALES STAFF:

Hai. Shashu wa nani ga ii desu ka. Sen cc no kogatasha, D-kurasu da to, ryōkin wa ichinichi rokusen yonhyaku-en, sono ue no E-kurasu da to nanasen-en. Zenhoshō-tsuki desu ga, anshin kōsu o o-susume shimasu.

はい。車種は何がいいです力、。千CCの小型車、Dクラスだ ど、料金は1日6，400円、その上のEクラスだど7,000円。 全保障つきですが、安心コースをおすすめします。

All right. What kind of car would you like? A 1,000 cc small car, the D-class is 6,400 yen a day and the one above that, the E-class, is 7,000 yen. All insurance is included but I do recommend our “peace of mind” course.

MAX:

Kānabi wa tsuite imasu ka?

カーナビはついていますか。

Is there GPS in the car?

SALES STAFF:

Tsuite imasu yo,

ついていますよ。

Yes, there is.

MAX:

Sore de wa, D-kurasu no kuruma, hoken wa anshin kōsu ni shimasu.

それでは、Dクラスの車、保険は安心コースにします。

Well, I’ll take a D-class car, and for the insurance I’ll go for the “peace of mind” course.

SALES STAFF:

Arigatō gozaimasu. Nihon no menkyoshō ga nakute mo ii desu. Kokusai menkyo de kekkō desu. Shikashi, kurejitto kādo no maebarai ga hitsuyō desu.

ありがどうございます。日本の免許証がなくてもいいです。 国際免許で結構です。しかし、クレジットカードの前払い が必要です。

Thank you. We don’t need a Japanese driving license. Your international driving licence is fine. But you’ll need to pay in advance on your credit card.

4.07 Asking for Road Directions

Secondary roads are not always marked on road maps, and road signs can be inadequate or lost in a jungle of wires, posts, placards, and shrubbery. Max gets lost and drops in at a convenience store to ask for directions.

MAX:

Sumimasen. Kōsoku no iriguchi e wa kore de iin’ desu ka?

すみません。高速の入り口へはこれでいいんですか。

Excuse me. Is this the way to the Expressway?

STORE STAFF:

Iya. Iki-sugi desu ne. Sō ne, temae no ōkina kōsaten ni modotte, migi e magatte, san-kiro gurai iku to, kōsoku no iriguchi ga mieru hazu desu yo.

いや、行きすぎですね。そうね、手前の大きな交差点に灵っ て、右へ曲がって、そこから3キロぐらい行くど、高速の入り ロが見えるはずですよ。

No. You’ve gone too far. Let me see, go back to the last big intersection and turn right. After about three kilometres, you should see the entrance to the expressway.

MAX:

Arigatō gozaimashita.

ありがどうございました。

Thank you very much.

4.08 Calling for Help

Max is ill-fated. On his way home he has trouble with the car and needs to ring the rental company’s helpline.

CALL CENTER:

Nihon Rentakā desu.

日本レン夕カーです。

Hello. This is Japan Rentacar.

MAX:

Sukiijō de batterii ga agatchatta. Dō shitara ii desu ka.

スキー場でバッテリーが上がちやった。どうしたらいい ですか。

My car battery’s gone dead at the ski slope. What should I do?

CALL CENTER:

Hai. O-namae to basho, kuruma no nanbā, o-negai shimasu.

はい。お名前ど場所、車のナンバー、お願いします。

OK. Please give me your name, your location, and the car number.

MAX:

Basho wa Zaō sukiijō no chūshajō no iriguchi de, namae wa Buraun, kuruma no nanbā wa Sendai rokujūyon no rokujū desu.

場所は蔵王スキー場の駐車場の入り口で、名前はブラウ ン、車のナンバーは仙台64—60です。

I’m at the entrance to the parking lot of the Zao ski slope, the name is Brown, and the car registration number is Sendai 64-60.

CALL CENTER:

Hai, wakarimashita.Yonjippun gurai de tantōsha ga ikimasu no de, sono mama o-machi kudasai.

はい、分かりました。40分ぐらいで担当者が行きますの で、そのままお待ちください。

I see. Someone should be with you in about forty minutes. Please wait.

MAX:

O-negai shimasu.

お原貝いします。

OK. Thank you.

More words to describe common car problems:

• Gasorin ga kireta.
ガソリンが切れた。
I’ve run out of gas.

• Enjin ga koshō shita.
エンジンが故障した。
I’m having engine trouble.

• Kagi o ireta mama rokku shite shimatta.
鍵を入れたままロックしてしまった。
I’ve locked the keys inside the car.

• Sharin ga sokkō ni ochite shimatta.
車輪がそっこうに落ちてしまった。
One wheel is stuck in the ditch.

4.09 Planning a Trip

You can make your travel plans and do much of the booking on the internet. A lot of sites are in English, but here’s an example of a Japanese site (more information on using the internet in the chapter on Shopping).

4.10 Confirming a Room Reservation

As your trip approaches, you might like to confirm that your internet booking has gone through.

RECEPTIONIST:

Ichinoyu de gozaimasu.

一の湯でございます。

This is Ichinoyu.

LIN:

Anō, intānetto de, nijūroku-nichi ippaku o yoyaku shimashita ga, kakunin shite moratte ii desu ka. Rin to moshimasu.

あのう、イン夕一ネットで、26日一泊を予約しました力\確 認してもらっていいですか。林ど申します。

Er, I made a reservation on the internet for one night on the 26 ^th. Could you confirm it please? My name is Li.

RECEPTIONIST:

Hai. Nimei-sama desu ne. Go-tōchaku wa nanjigoro ni narisō desu ka?

はい。2名さまですね。ご到着は何時ごろになりそうですか。

That’s fine. Two people. About what time are you likely to arrive?

LIN:

Sō desu ne. Machi o mite mawatte kara ikimasu no de, rokuji-goro ni narisō ka na.

そうですね、町を見て回ってから行きますので、6時ごろに なりそうかな。

Let me see. We’ll go after we’ve looked around the town, so it will probably be around six.

RECEPTIONIST:

O-machi shite orimasu. O-ki o tsukete o-dekake kudasai.

お待ちしております。お気をつけてお出かけください。

We’ll be waiting for you. Please take care on your way here.

4.11 Asking the Way

You’ll find people are more than happy to give you directions.

• Sumimasen. Inarimon wa dochira desu ka.
すみません。いなり門はどちらですか。
Excuse me. Which way to the Inarimon Gate [of the Asakusa Kannon Temple]?

• Sumimasen. Daiichi Hoteru o sagashite imasu ga.
すみません。第一ホテルを探していますが。
Excuse me. I’m looking for the Daiichi Hotel.

• Miyajima e dono yō ni ittara ii desu ka? Ressha ga ii desu ka? Romen densha ga ii desu ka? Soretomo fune de itta hō ga ii desu ka?
官島へどのように行ったらいいです力、。列車がいいですか。路 面電車がいいですか。それども^^で行った方がいいですか
How should we go to Miyajima? By train? By tram? Or would it be better to go by boat?

4.12 Asking Where to Go

Ask at tourist information or your lodging about places to visit and places to eat.

LIN:

Chotto o-kiki shimasu ga, chikaku no meisho o oshiete kudasai.

ちょっとお聞きします力\近くの名所を教えてください。

May I ask you a question? Can you tell me the places of interest nearby?

RECEPTIONIST:

Hai. O-shiro ga yūmei desu yo. Saiken shita mono desu ga, naka ni subarashii hakubutsukan ga arimasu.

はい。お城が有名ですよ。再建したものです力\中にすばら しい博物館があります。

All right. The castle is famous. It’s a reconstruction but there’s a superb museum inside.

LIN:

Dentōteki na mingeihin o utte iru mise nado wa arimasen ka?

伝統的な民芸品を売っている店などはありませんか。

Are there any shops or such like selling traditional craft items?

RECEPTIONIST:

Takusan arimasu yo. Chōchin o tsukuttari, senbei o yaitari suru omoshiroi mise ga takusan arimasu.

たくさんありますよ。ちょうちんを作ったり、せんべいを焼い たりする面白い店がたくさんあります。

There are lots. There are lots of interesting shops making paper lanterns, baking rice crackers.

LIN:

Sugoi na. Basho o oshiete kudasai. Sore kara, mō hitotsu. Chikaku ni o-susume no resutoran/izakaya wa arimasu ka?

すごいな。場所を教えてください。それから、もう一つ。近 くにおすすめのレストラン/居酒屋はあります力、。

Great. Please tell me where they are. And one more thing. Is there a restaurant/bar nearby you can recommend?

4.13 Using the In-house Telephone

If you’re staying at a ryokan, minshuku, or penshon, you should arrive by about five o’clock because dinner is usually served around six. Japanese hotels and ryokan generally supply cotton sleeping kimono, soap, razors, toothbrushes, and toothpaste. Hotels usually provide Western-style bath towels but ryokan may not.

Near the phone in the room, there should be a telephone guide that looks something like this:

9	furonto	フロント	front desk
0	gaisen	外線	outside line
7	kyaku-shitsu	客室	other guest rooms
6	rūmu sābisu	ル一ムサ一ビス	room service

If you need something, telephone either the front desk or room service.

• Moshi-moshi. Sanbyakusan gōshitsu desu ga, kōri/ōkina yukata/rāmen o motte kite kudasai.
もしもし。303号室ですが/氷/大きなゆかた/ラ一 メンを持ってきてください。
Hello? This is room 303. Can you bring some ice/a large cotton kimono/a bowl of noodles?

• Ekusutora-beddo, o-negai shimashita ga, heya ni wa mada haitte imasen.
ェクストラべッド、お願いしました力叉部屋にはまだ入って いません。
We ordered an extra bed, but it’s not in the room yet.

• Ashita no asa wa yōshoku, o-negai dekimasu ka?
明日の朝は洋食、お願いできますか。
For tomorrow morning, can we have Western-style breakfasts?

4.14 The Hot Spring

If you find yourself in a hot spring resort, here are some phrases to get the most out of your experience.

• Sumimasen. Shukuhaku de wa naku, higaeri de onsen ni hairemasu ka?
すみません。宿泊ではなく、日帰りで温泉に入れます力、。
Excuse me. We’re not staying the night but may we take the hot spring during the day?

• Koko no onsen wa nani ni kikimasu ka?
ここの温泉は何に効きます力、。
What is this hot spring good for?

• Ichō no byōki/ryūmachi/yōtsū/hifu-byō ni yoku kikimasu yo.
胃腸の病気.リュウマチ.腰痛.皮膚病によく効きますよ。
It’s very good for stomach disorders/rheumatism/ backache/skin diseases.

• Chotto umete ii desu ka?
ちょっとうめていいですか。
Do you mind if I add a bit of cold water?

4.15 Public Holidays in Japan

This is the calendar for public holidays. When a holiday falls on a Sunday, the following Monday becomes a holiday. If you can, avoid traveling in peak periods: the New Year period (December 29 to January 4), Golden Week (April 29 to May 5), and the Bon Festival (August 13 to 16).

January 1	ganjitsu	元日	New Year’s Day
January 15	seijin no hi	成人の日	Coming of Age Day
February 11	kenkoku kinenbi	建国記念日	National Founding Day
March 21	shunbun no hi	春分の日	Spring Equinox Day
April 29	midori no hi	緑の日	Greenery Day
May 3	kenpō kinenbi	急法§己念日	Constitution Day
May 4	kokumin no kyūjitsu	国民の休日	National Holiday
May 5	kodomo no hi	子供の日	Children’s Day
July 18	umi no hi	海の曰	Sea Day
September 19	keirō no hi	敬老の日	Respect for the Aged Day
September 23	shūbun no hi	秋分の日	Autumn Equinox Day
October 10	taiiku no hi	体育の曰	Health-Sports Day
November 3	bunka no hi	文化の日	Culture Day
November 23	kinrō kansha no hi	勤労感謝の日	Labor Thanksgiving Day
December 23	tennō tanjobi	天皇誕生日	Emperor’s Birthday

4.16 Words and Expressions

ACCOMMODATION
shukuhaku	宿泊	accommodation
hoteru	ホテル	Western-style hotel
ryokan	旅館	Japanese inn
minshuku	民宿	family-run guesthouse
penshon	ペンション	Western-style guesthouse
bijinesu hoteru	ビジネス•ホテル	no-frills hotel
shukubō	宿坊	temple offering accommodations
yūsu hosuteru	ユース•ホステル	youth hostel
kyanpu-jō	キャンプ場	campsite
ippaku	一泊	one-night stay
washitsu	和室	Japanese-style room (with futon)
yōshitsu	洋室	Western-style room (with bed)
chōshoku	朝食	breakfast
ohiru /chūshoku	お昼•昼食	lunch
yūshoku	夕食	dinner
daiyokujō	大浴場	main communal bath
TRAVELING BY TRAIN
densha	電車	electric train
ressha	列車	train, often refers to a scheduled train
shinkansen	新幹線	bullet train
jiyūseki	自由席	unreserved seat
shiteiseki	指定席	reserved seat
seisanki	精算機	fare-adjustment machine
eki no deguchi	駅の出口	station exit
Midori no Madoguchi	みどりの窓口	Japan Railways reservation office
jikokuhyō	時刻表	timetable
ekiben	駅弁	station box lunch
TRAVELING BY CAR
kōsoku dōro	高速道路	expressway
ryōkinjo	料金所	toll gate
rasshu	ラッシュ	rush hour
jūtai	渋滞	congestion, traffic jam
sābisu eria	サービス.エリア	rest area
pākingu eria	パーキング•エリア	rest area with limited facilities
dōro chizu	道路地図	road map
rentakā	レンタカー	car rental
GENERAL
kankō annai	観光案内	tourist information
sakura zensen	桜前線	the cherry blossom front