You can’t have a good sauce if you start with a bad stock. Too many people take stocks for granted. In many restaurants the stock pot is like a garbage can; they throw in all kinds of trimmings. They slather the bones with tomato paste and roast them until they burn.
The ideology of a stock is important. The idea is to remove through extended gentle heat the flavor and gelatin of the bones and meat while continually removing the impurities: the blood, fat, bone, and vegetable particles released in the cooking process. You need to cook your bones and meat in the proper amount of liquid, adding the proper amount of vegetables. I like sweet things in my stock: carrot, onion, tomato, and also some garlic. I don’t use celery, because it makes the stock a little bitter. Every step of the way, you remove impurities. Everything follows from this.
When we make veal stock, we wash the bones. Next, we blanch them. Any blood on the surface of the bones or in the meat will coagulate, and these impurities will float in the stock. We pour off the blanching water, rinse the bones again, and clean them. (If we had the time and space, we would blanch the bones twice, but it’s impractical.)
We then return the bones to the clean pot, add the appropriate amount of water, and bring it up to a gentle heat. It’s always important to have a gradual temperature change and to cook the stock at a low temperature. You don’t want to cook stock over too-high heat for three reasons: flavor, clarity, and yield.
First, boiling bones and vegetables—cooking them over high heat will release all their fats and impurities, and the violence of the boiling water will emulsify them into the stock. These impurities, emulsified into clear liquid, will cloud the stock. And if the bones and vegetables are cooked too violently, or too long, they will break down particle by particle. These millions of particles will act like little sponges, soaking up your good stock, so that when you strain it, a lot of stock will be caught in your China cap and wind up in the garbage, reducing your total yield.
After the stock has cooked for the specified time and been strained, the final step is to reduce it slowly. Reduction brings the stock to the proper consistency. By setting your pot half off the burner, you’ll create a natural convection current that pushes the impurities to one side of the pot so you can skim them away—a kind of natural clarification process.
To increase yield and use all the flavor in veal bones, we make a remouillage, a second, weaker stock from the same bones. We add this to the first stock and reduce it all to about a quarter of its original volume.
We also make a white veal stock without tomatoes (we do not make a remouillage for this stock) that is only cooked for four hours, yielding a clear, gelatinous stock that we use to cook sweetbreads, tongue, trotters—things we don’t want to darken. Because it’s so gelatinous, anything cooled and stored in the stock remains very fresh. Further-more, the item being cooled imparts more of its own flavor to the stock. After cooking with it, we add leftover white veal stock to our brown stock.
While the veal stock needs a long, slow simmering time, our chicken stock is quick. We use the same method, but we cook the bones (twenty pounds in about 4 gallons of water) for forty-five minutes for a very light flavor, one that won’t overpower a vegetable soup or a risotto or become too assertive in a quick sauce.
With vegetable stock, it’s important to understand that there is a point at which the vegetables will have imparted all their flavor to the water and will begin to disintegrate and absorb liquid, potentially decreasing your yield. As with our mushrooms when we make mushroom stock, we grind our vegetables and cook them for only 45 minutes.
We add chicken feet and duck feet to our chicken and duck stock, respectively, and calves’ feet to all meat stocks. The feet contain gelatin, adding viscosity to the stock without reduction.
Although we don’t roast the veal bones, we do roast venison, lamb, and duck bones for our stocks to create a more pronounced flavor. These stocks are going to be used only in finished sauces for venison, lamb, and duck dishes. Because roasting adds impurities to these stocks, it’s important to be careful to bring them up to heat gently and be diligent in the skimming and straining.
10 pounds veal bones, necks, and backs
1 calf’s foot, split (optional)
24 quarts cold water
Scant 2 cups (1 pound) tomato paste
AROMATICS
2½ cups (12 ounces) carrots cut into 1-inch mirepoix
4 cups (1 pound) leeks cut into 1-inch mirepoix (white and some light green parts only)
1½ cups (8 ounces) onions cut into 1-inch mirepoix
1 head garlic, halved, broken into pieces, root end and excess skin removed
1½ ounces Italian parsley sprigs
½ ounce thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
1 pound tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces (2½ cups)
At the French Laundry, veal stock is used as a base for a number of different sauces. Unlike most recipes for veal stock, ours does not contain a step for roasting the bones. The depth of color comes from the tomatoes and tomato paste and the final reduction process. The stock is neutral and clean-flavored, with the presence of veal, but not an overwhelming flavor of it.
You will need a stockpot with a minimum capacity of twenty quarts. If necessary, the recipe can be split between two smaller pots or cut in half.
Although making veal stock is a time-consuming procedure, it can be done over several days. The first day, blanch the bones and prepare Veal #1; the second day, continue by making Veal #2; and the third day, combine the liquids to produce the final stock.
1. The blanching of bones for clarification (1 to 1½ hours).
2. Veal #1—The initial extraction of flavor from bones and aromatics to obtain a first liquid (5 to 6 hours).
3. Veal #2, or remouillage—The second extraction of flavor to obtain a second liquid (5 to 6 hours). Remouillage is the French term for the “remoistening,” or second extraction from the bones.
4. “Marriage” of Veal #1 and Veal #2 and further reduction to concentrate color and consistency (8 to 9 hours).
TO BLANCH THE BONES: Blanching is an essential first step in the making of a clear, clean stock. Rinse the veal bones in cold water and put the bones and calf’s foot, if using, in a stockpot with at least a 20-quart capacity. (If you do not have a stockpot large enough, split the recipe between two pots.) Fill the pot with cold water, adding twice as much water as you have bones. Bring to a simmer slowly; this coagulates the blood proteins and brings other impurities to the surface. As the liquid is being brought to a simmer, move the bones around from time to time, but do not stir, which would create too much movement and disperse the impurities. Skim off the scum that rises to the surface. As soon as the liquid comes to a simmer, remove the pot from the heat. (If the bones continue to blanch any longer than is necessary to coagulate blood proteins and draw out other impurities, more flavor will be extracted into a liquid that you will end up discarding rather than into the liquid that will become your stock.)
Drain the bones in a large colander and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking process and remove any scum. It is important that the bones be rinsed while they are hot; if they are allowed to cool first, the impurities will cling to the bones and go into your stock. Rinse out the stockpot to remove any impurities on the bottom and sides of the pot.
FOR VEAL #1: Return the rinsed bones to the clean stockpot. Add 12 quarts of the cold water to the pot. Slowly bring the water to a simmer. This will take 1 to 1½ hours. Skim continuously! (It is easier to skim before the aromatics are added, and the more you skim, the better your chances are for a clear stock.)
Once the liquid is at a simmer, skim and then stir in the tomato paste. Add the aromatics and the tomatoes. Bring the liquid back to a simmer and simmer for 4 hours: Skim, skim, skim.
Strain the liquid, first through a China capor colander, then through a chinoisinto a second container, reserving the bones and aromatics. Do not press on the solids in the strainer or force through any liquid that does not pass on its own. You should have approximately 8 to 10 quarts of liquid. Rapidly cool it by filling a sink with ice water, placing the container in the sink, and stirring the liquid occasionally until there are no traces of steam and the liquid is cool. Once it is cool, refrigerate.
FOR VEAL #2: Return the bones and aromatics to the clean stockpot. Fill with the remaining 12 quarts cold water. Slowly bring the liquid to a simmer, skimming often. Simmer for another 4 hours, skimming frequently.
Strain the liquid twice, as for Veal #1. You should have approximately 8 to 10 quarts of liquid. Rapidly cool it down as directed for Veal #1. If you will not be finishing the stock within a few hours, refrigerate the liquid.
FOR THE “MARRIAGE” OF VEAL #1 AND VEAL #2: Clean the stockpot and add Veal #1 and Veal #2. Slowly bring the liquid to a simmer. This may take 1 to 1½ hours. Simmer for 6 to 8 hours, or until the stock reduces to approximately 2 quarts. It should have a rich brown color and a sauce-like consistency. Store in the refrigerator for several days, or freeze in several containers for longer storage.
makes about 2 quarts
10 pounds veal bones, necks, and backs
1 calf’s foot, split (optional)
10 quarts cold water
AROMATICS
4 cups (1 pound) leeks cut into 1-inch mirepoix (white and some light green parts only)
3 cups (1 pound) onions cut into 1-inch mirepoix
½ ounce Italian parsley sprigs
2 bay leaves
5 sprigs thyme
Rinse the veal bones in cold water and place the bones and calf’s foot, if using, in a 16-quart stockpot. Add enough cold water to come three quarters of the way up the sides of the pot; there should be at least twice as much water as there are bones. Slowly bring the water to a simmer; this may take 1 to 1½ hours. As the liquid is being brought to a simmer, move the bones around from time to time, but do not stir, which would create too much movement and disperse the impurities. Skim off the scum that rises to the surface. As soon as the liquid comes to a simmer, remove it from the heat. (If the bones continue to blanch any longer than is necessary to coagulate blood proteins and draw out other impurities, more flavor will be extracted into a liquid that you will end up discarding rather than into the liquid that will become your stock.)
Drain the bones in a large colander. Rinse the bones well, until there is no film left on them; they should feel smooth to the touch and the water should run clear. It is very important that the bones be rinsed thoroughly to remove any impurities, which would not only cloud the stock but make the finished stock gray.
Clean the pot and return the bones to it. Add the cold water and slowly bring the water to a simmer, skimming frequently. Once it is at a simmer, add the aromatics and continue to simmer for 4 hours, skimming frequently to remove any impurities. The stock will have a noticeable clarity.
Turn off the heat and allow the stock to rest for 10 minutes; this allows any particles left in the stock to settle at the bottom of the pot. Set a chinoisor fine-mesh strainer over a container large enough to hold at least 4 quarts. Use a ladle to remove the stock from the pot and strain it into the container. (It is important to ladle the stock rather than pouring it, as the force of pouring it out all at once would force impurities through the strainer.) Discard any stock toward the bottom of the pot that is cloudy with impurities.
Fill a sink with ice water and place the container in it to cool down the stock rapidly. Stir occasionally until there are no traces of steam. Refrigerate the stock for 1 to 2 days, or freeze in several containers for longer storage.
makes 3 quarts
10 pounds lamb bones, cut into small pieces
½ cup canola oil
1 calf’s foot, split (optional)
10 quarts cold water
AROMATICS
2½ cups (12 ounces) carrots cut into 1-inch mirepoix
4 cups (1 pound) leeks cut into 1-inch mirepoix (whites and some light green parts only)
1½ cups (8 ounces) onions cut into 1-inch mirepoix
1 head garlic, halved, broken into pieces, root end and excess skin removed
1½ ounces Italian parsley sprigs
½ ounce thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves (1 pound)
Scant 2 cups tomato paste
1 pound tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces (2½ cups)
TO ROAST THE BONES: Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Place the lamb bones in a roasting pan that is large enough to hold them in one layer. (If they are crowded, they will steam and not brown evenly; use two pans if necessary.) The optional calf’s foot is not roasted, as that would decrease the extraction of gelatin.
Coat the bones with the oil; using oil speeds the roasting process. Roast for about 1½ hours, stirring occasionally to ensure even browning. Once the bones are a rich deep brown color, remove them from the roasting pan and place them in one large stockpot or two smaller ones.
TO DEGLAZE THE ROASTING PAN: Add just enough water to barely cover the bottom of the roasting pan. Place the pan over medium heat and use a wooden spatula to scrape up the glaze and bits of meat on the bottom of the pan. Add this to the stockpot.
FOR THE EXTRACTION: Add the calf’s foot, if using, and the cold water to the pot. Bring the liquid slowly to a simmer, skimming off any scum as soon as you see it. (It is easier to skim before the vegetables are added.) Once the liquid is at a simmer, add the aromatics, tomato paste, and tomatoes and simmer the stock for 5 hours.
LADLE THE STOCK INTO A CONTAINER: First ladle from the top, rather than dipping deep, then tilt the pot to continue ladling the liquid; remove and discard the bones as you go. Do not be tempted to pour the stock through a colander; it would make the stock cloudy. Then strain the stock through a chinoisor fine-mesh strainer. Do not force through any meat or liquid remaining in the strainer.
You should have 3 to 4 quarts of lamb stock. If necessary, return the strained stock to the heat and reduce to 3 quarts. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 days, or freeze in several containers for longer storage.
makes 3 quarts
5 pounds duck bones, cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
½ cup canola oil
1 pound duck feet (optional)
6 quarts cold water
AROMATICS
1¾ cups (8 ounces) carrots cut into 1-inch mirepoix
2 cups (8 ounces) leeks cut into 1-inch mirepoix (white and some light green parts only)
1½ cups (8 ounces) onions cut into 1-inch pieces
1 ounce Italian parsley sprigs
¾ cup tomato paste
1 pound tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces (2½ cups)
Compared to the fairly neutral chicken and veal stocks, which are used as a base for sauces, this duck stock is more concentrated and flavorful. The bones are roasted to make the duck flavor more pronounced.
TO ROAST THE BONES: Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Rinse the duck bones well to remove any traces of blood. Using a towel, dry the bones well (wet bones would steam rather than roast). Place the bones in a roasting pan that is large enough to hold them in one layer. (If they are crowded, they will steam and not brown evenly.) The optional duck feet are not roasted, as that would decrease the extraction of gelatin.
Coat the bones with the oil; using oil speeds the roasting process. Roast the bones for about 1½ hours. During the roasting process, water and fat will leach from the bones; remove it as it accumulates, or you risk the bones steaming rather than roasting. Once the bones are a rich deep red-brown (not black), remove them from the roasting pan and place in a 12-quart stockpot.
TO DEGLAZE THE ROASTING PAN: Place the roasting pan over medium heat to concentrate any remaining liquid. (It is important to have a “glaze” before you “deglaze.”) Once the liquid has reduced to a glaze, add just enough water to barely cover the bottom of the roasting pan. Use a wooden spatula to scrape up the glaze and combine it with the liquid. Add this to the stockpot.
Add the duck feet, if using, and the cold water to the pot. Bring the liquid slowly to a simmer, skimming off any scum as soon as you see it. (It is easier to skim before the vegetables are added.) Once the liquid is at a simmer, add the aromatics, tomato paste, and tomatoes and simmer the stock for 4 hours.
Strain the stock three times to ensure that any impurities are removed: First strain it through a colander and discard the bones and aromatics. Next strain through a China cap, and finally through a chinois. Do not force any solids or thickened liquids through the strainers, as they would cloud the finished stock. You should have approximately 3 quarts of stock.
FOR THE FINAL REDUCTION: The stock should be a deep red-brown color, with a consistency you can feel between your fingers and with a pronounced duck flavor. If the stock appears red in color and is watery, further reduction is necessary to concentrate the color, consistency, and flavor. For use in any of these recipes, slowly reduce the stock to 2 cups. Refrigerate the stock for 1 to 2 days, or freeze in one or two containers for longer storage.
makes 2 cups
10 pounds venison bones
½ cup canola oil
14 quarts cold water
AROMATICS
1 head garlic, halved, broken into pieces, root end and excess skin removed
2½ cups (12 ounces) carrots cut into 1-inch mirepoix
4 cups (1 pound) leeks cut into 1-inch mirepoix (white and some light green parts only)
1½ cups (8 ounces) onions cut into 1-inch mirepoix
1½ ounces Italian parsley sprigs
½ ounce thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
1 pound tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces (2½ cups)
Scant 2 cups tomato paste
You will need a very large stockpot—at least twenty-four quarts—for this recipe. If you do not have one, make it in two pots, or cut the recipe in half.
TO ROAST THE BONES: Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Place the bones in a single layer in a large roasting pan and drizzle with the oil. Roast, turning the bones occasionally, for about 1 hour 45 minutes, or until they are well browned. Remove the bones to a very large stockpot.
TO DEGLAZE THE ROASTING PAN: Add about a cup of water to the pan, place the pan over medium heat, and scrape the bottom with a wooden spatula to loosen the glazed juices. Add to the stockpot. Add the cold water to the pot and slowly bring to a simmer.
Add the aromatics, tomatoes, and tomato paste to the pot and simmer for 5 hours.
LADLE THE STOCK INTO A CONTAINER: First ladle from the top, rather than dipping deep, then tilt the pot to continue ladling the liquid; remove and discard the bones as you go. Do not be tempted to pour the stock through a colander; it would make the stock cloudy. Then strain the stock through a chinoisor fine-mesh strainer. Do not force through any meat or liquid remaining in the strainer. You should have about 4 quarts of venison stock.
Chill the stock and remove the fat that will solidify on the top. Then reduce the stock to 3 quarts and strain. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 days, or freeze in several containers for longer use.
makes 3 quarts
5 pounds chicken bones, necks, and backs
1 pound chicken feet (optional)
4 quarts cold water
2 quarts ice cubes
AROMATICS
1¾ cups (8 ounces) carrots cut into 1-inch mirepoix
2 heaping cups (8 ounces) leeks cut into 1-inch mirepoix (white and some light green parts only)
1½ cups (8 ounces) onions cut into 1-inch mirepoix
1 bay leaf
This light, clean-flavored chicken stock is suitable for a variety of uses. As a base for a quick sauce or a braising liquid, it will take on the flavors of the individual dish. I like its light, almost neutral, taste. But for a stock with more chicken flavor, reduce the water by one third or increase the amount of bones used. For a more flavorful soup base, gently reduce it to the color and flavor intensity desired, the pot pulled to the side of the flame or burner so you can skim any residue that collects at the side of the pot.
Rinse the bones, necks, backs, and optional chicken feet thoroughly under cold water to remove all the visible blood. Remove any organs that may still be attached to the bones. (The rinsing of bones and removal of any organs is an essential first step in the clarification of the stock, as blood proteins are removed that would coagulate when heated and there will therefore be less chance that impurities will cloud your stock.)
Place all the bones and the feet, if using, in a 14- to 16-quart stockpot. Cover with the cold water. Slowly bring the liquid to a simmer, beginning to skim as soon as any impurities rise to the top. (It is important to keep skimming, because as the stock comes to a simmer, impurities could otherwise be pulled back into the liquid and emulsify and cloud the finished stock.)
Once the liquid is at a simmer, add the ice and then remove the fat. (The ice will chill and thicken the fat and turn it opaque, making it easier to remove.) Skim off as much of the impurities as possible. (Once the vegetables are added, skimming will be more difficult.)
Add the aromatics and slowly bring the liquid back to a simmer, skimming frequently. Simmer for another 30 to 40 minutes, skimming often. Turn off the heat and allow the stock to rest for 10 minutes; this allows any particles left in the stock to settle at the bottom of the pot.
Set a chinoisor fine-mesh strainer over a container large enough to hold at least 6 quarts. Use a ladle to remove the stock from the pot and strain it into the container. (It is important to ladle the stock rather than pouring it, as the force of pouring it out all at once would force impurities through the strainer.) Discard any stock toward the bottom of the pot that is cloudy with impurities.
Fill a sink with ice water and place the container in it to cool the stock rapidly. Stir occasionally until there are no traces of steam. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 days, or freeze in several containers for longer storage.
makes about 6 quarts
1 pound button mushrooms, washed and sliced
1 cup sliced carrots
1 cup sliced leeks
1 cup sliced onions
½ cup Italian parsley sprigs
¼ cup canola oil
½ teaspoon curry powder
1 bay leaf
1 large sprig thyme
4 quarts water
This stock can be made with any mushroom and used in soups or sauces. As with any stock, it freezes well. We grind the vegetables in a meat grinder to expose more surface area for quick cooking and purer flavor. This recipe calls for a food processor, which more home kitchens are likely to have, as an alternative. The curry powder brings out the mushroom flavor.
Finely grind the mushrooms, carrots, leeks, onions, and parsley separately in a food processor, pulsing and scraping down the sides as necessary for an even cut.
Heat the oil in a stockpot. Add the vegetables and curry powder. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add the bay leaf, thyme, and 2 quarts of the water. Bring to a simmer and simmer for 45 minutes.
Strain the stock through a chinois, pressing down on the solids, and return the vegetables to the stockpot. Set the stock aside; you should have about 6 cups. Refill the stockpot with the remaining 2 quarts water and return to a simmer. Cook for another 45 minutes. Strain as before.
Combine the two batches of stock in a pot. Bring to a boil and reduce until you have 3 cups. Refrigerate for up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 6 months.
makes 3 cups
1½ pounds leeks (1 large bunch; white part only), well washed and coarsely chopped (about 4½ cups)
1 pound carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)
1½ pounds (about 2) Spanish onions, coarsely chopped (about 4½ cups)
1 small fennel bulb, trimmed and coarsely chopped
¼ cup canola oil
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs thyme
2 ounces (1 large bunch) Italian parsley
3 to 4 quarts water
Vegetable stock loses its flavor quickly. Make it as close to the time of use as possible, make it in small quantities or immediately freeze it immediately.
Chop all the vegetables in a food processor.
Cook the vegetables in the canola oil in a medium stockpot over low heat for 5 to 8 minutes, or until softened. Add the bay leaves, thyme, and parsley, and enough water to cover. Bring to a gentle simmer, skimming frequently, and cook for 45 minutes. Strain through a chinois. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 days, or freeze in several containers for longer storage
makes 3 to 4 quarts
