Though sprawling and congested, Athens has a compact, enjoyable core capped by the famous Acropolis—the world’s top ancient site. In this historic town, you’ll walk in the footsteps of the great minds that created democracy, philosophy, theater, and more...even as you’re dodging motorcycles on “pedestrianized” streets. Romantics can’t help but get goose bumps as they kick around the same pebbles that once stuck in Socrates’ sandals, with the floodlit Parthenon forever floating ethereally overhead.
Many tourists visit Athens without ever venturing beyond the Plaka (Old Town) and the ancient zone. With limited time, this is not a bad plan, as greater Athens offers few sights (other than the excellent National Archaeological Museum). But for a more authentic taste of the city, check out the trendy Psyrri district—right next door to the Plaka—with its dilapidated-chic hipster dining and nightlife scene. Other thriving and fun-to-explore districts near the center are Thissio and Gazi.
Because of its prominent position on the tourist trail—and the irrepressible Greek spirit of hospitality—the city is user-friendly. It seems that virtually all Athenians speak English, major landmarks are well-signed, and most street signs are in both Greek and English.
Ninety-five percent of Athens is noisy, polluted modern sprawl: characterless, poorly planned, and hastily erected concrete suburbs that house the area’s rapidly expanding population. The construction of the Metro and other infrastructure for the 2004 Olympics was, in many ways, the first time urban planners had ever attempted to tie the city together and treat it as a united entity.
But most visitors barely see that part of Athens. Almost everything of importance to tourists is within a few blocks of the Acropolis, in the Plaka, Monastiraki, Syntagma, and Psyrri neighborhoods. As you explore this city-within-a-city on foot, you’ll realize just how small it is.
A good map is a necessity for enjoying Athens on foot. The fine map the TI gives out works great. Get a good map and use it.
The Athens you’ll be spending your time in includes the following districts:
The Plaka (PLAH-kah, Πλάκα): This neighborhood at the foot of the Acropolis is the core of the tourist’s Athens. One of the only parts of town that’s atmospheric and Old World-feeling, it’s also the most crassly touristic. Its streets are lined with souvenir shops, tourist-oriented tavernas, a smattering of small museums, ancient Greek and Roman ruins, and pooped tourists. The Plaka’s narrow, winding streets can be confusing at first, but you can’t get too lost with a monument the size of the Acropolis looming overhead to keep you oriented. Think of the Plaka as Athens with training wheels for tourists. While some visitors are mesmerized by the Plaka, others find it obnoxious and enjoy venturing outside it for a change of scenery.
Monastiraki (moh-nah-stee-RAH-kee, Μοναστηρακι): This area (“Little Monastery”) borders the Plaka to the northwest, surrounding the square of the same name. It’s known for its handy Metro stop (where line 1/green meets line 3/blue), seedy flea market, and souvlaki stands. The Ancient Agora is nearby (roughly between Monastiraki and Thissio).
Psyrri (psee-REE, Ψυρή): Formerly a dumpy ghetto just north of Monastiraki, Psyrri is now a thriving nightlife and dining district. Along its northern edge is the bustling Central Market. Don’t be put off by the crumbling, graffiti-slathered buildings of Psyrri...this is one of central Athens’ most appealing areas to explore after dark, and for now, locals still outnumber tourists here.
Syntagma (SEEN-dag-mah, Συνταγμα): Centered on Athens’ main square, Syntagma (“Constitution”) Square, this urban-feeling zone melts into the Plaka to the south. While the Plaka is dominated by tourist shops, Syntagma is where local urbanites do their shopping. Syntagma is bounded to the east by the Parliament building and the vast National Garden.
Thissio (thee-SEE-oh, Θησείο): West of the Ancient Agora, Thissio is an upscale, local-feeling residential neighborhood with piles of outdoor cafés and restaurants. It’s easily accessible thanks to the handy “Acropolis Loop” pedestrian walkway bordering the base of the Acropolis.
Gazi (GAH-zee, Γκάζι): At the western edge of the tourist’s Athens (just beyond Thissio and Psyrri), Gazi is trendy and artsy, with lots of nightclubs and younger-skewing eateries. Its centerpiece is a former gas-works-turned-events center called Technopolis.
Makrigianni (mah-kree-YAH-nee, Μακρυγιάννη) and Koukaki (koo-KAH-kee, Κουκάκι): Tucked just behind (south of) the Acropolis, these overlapping urban neighborhoods with characterless apartment blocks are so nondescript that many locals just call Makrigianni the “south Plaka.” If you want to escape the crowds of the Plaka, this area—with hotels and restaurants within easy walking distance of the ancient sites—makes a good home base.
Kolonaki (koh-loh-NAH-kee, Κολωνάκι): Just north and east of the Parliament/Syntagma Square area, this upscale diplomatic quarter is home to several good museums and a yuppie dining zone. It’s huddled under the tall, pointy Lykavittos Hill, which challenges the Acropolis for domination of the skyline.
Exarchia (ex-AR-hee-yah, Εξάρχεια): Just beyond Kolonaki is this rough-and-funky student zone. The home of many protesters grabbing Greek headlines, it’s a fascinating but not-for-everyone glimpse into an Athens that few tourists experience.
Major Streets: Various major streets define the tourist’s Athens. The base of the Acropolis is partially encircled by a broad traffic-free walkway, named Dionysiou Areopagitou (Διονυσίου Αρεοπαγίτου) to the south and Apostolou Pavlou (Αποστόλου Παύλου) to the west; for simplicity, I call these the “Acropolis Loop.” Touristy Adrianou street (Αδριανού) curves through the Plaka a few blocks away from the Acropolis’ base. Partly pedestrianized Ermou street (Ερμού) runs west from Syntagma Square, defining the Plaka, Monastiraki, and Thissio to the south and Psyrri to the north. Where Ermou meets Monastiraki, Athinas street (Αθηνάς) heads north to Omonia Square. Running parallel to Athinas, heading north to the Central Market area, Aiolou street (Αιóλου) is mostly traffic-free and lined with shops and affordable eateries; the trendy St. Irene/Agia Irini Square (Άγια Ειρήνη) marks its southern end.
The tourist zone is hemmed in to the east by a series of major highways: The north–south Vasilissis Amalias avenue (Βασιλίσσης Αμαλίας) runs between the National Garden and the Plaka/Syntagma area. To the south, it jogs around the Temple of Olympian Zeus and becomes Syngrou avenue (Συγγρού). To the north, at the Parliament, it forks: The eastward branch, Vasilissis Sofias (Βασιλίσσης Σοφίας), heads past some fine museums to Kolonaki; the northbound branch, Panepistimiou (usually signed by its official name, Eleftheriou Venizelou, Eλευθερίου Βενιζέλου), angles northwest past the library and university buildings to Omonia Square.
Although Athens is a massive city, its main sights can be seen quickly. The top sights—the Acropolis, Ancient Agora, Acropolis Museum, and National Archaeological Museum—deserve about two hours apiece. Two days total is plenty of time for the casual tourist to see the city’s main attractions and have a little time left over for exploring (or to add more museums).
Day 1: In the morning, follow my Athens City Walk, then grab a souvlaki at Monastiraki. After lunch, as the crowds subside, visit the ancient biggies: First tour the Ancient Agora, then hike up to the Acropolis (confirm how late it’s open). Be the last person off the Acropolis. Stroll down the Dionysiou Areopagitou pedestrian boulevard, then promenade to dinner—in Thissio, Monastiraki, Psyrri, or the Plaka.
Day 2: Spend the morning visiting the Acropolis Museum and exploring the Plaka. For lunch, graze your way through my “Psyrri & Central Market Walk.” Then head to the National Archaeological Museum.
Day 3: Museum lovers will want more time to visit other archaeological sites (especially those included with your Acropolis combo-ticket), museums, and galleries. The city has many “also-ran” museums that reward patient sightseers. I’d suggest heading out toward Kolonaki to take in the Benaki Museum of Greek History and Culture, Museum of Cycladic Art, and Byzantine and Christian Museum.
Note that a third (or fourth) day could also be used for the long but satisfying side-trip by bus to Delphi or a quick getaway by boat to the isle of Hydra—each more interesting than a third or fourth day in Athens. But these sights—and many others—are better as an overnight stop.
The Greek National Tourist Organization (EOT), with its main branch near the Acropolis Museum, covers Athens and the rest of the country. Although their advice can be hit-or-miss, it’s worth a stop to pick up their free city map, Athens Live booklet, and their slick, glossy book on Athens. They also have information on museums and hours, entertainment options, and bus and train connections (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-16:00, shorter hours off-season; on pedestrian street leading to Acropolis Museum at Dionysiou Areopagitou 18, Metro: Akropoli; tel. 210-331-0392, www.visitgreece.gr, info@gnto.gr).
Helpful Websites: A great resource for anyone visiting Greece is Matt Barrett’s Athens Survival Guide (www.athensguide.com). Matt, who splits his time between North Carolina and Greece, splashes through his adopted hometown like a kid in a wading pool, enthusiastically sharing his discoveries and observations on his generous website. While his practical information isn’t always the most up-to-date, his perspectives and advice are top-notch. Matt covers emerging neighborhoods that few visitors venture into, and offers offbeat angles on the city and recommendations for untouristy restaurants. He also blogs about his latest impressions of the city.
For information on arriving in (or departing from) Athens by plane, boat, bus, train, or car, see the Athens Connections chapter.
The tourist core of Athens is surprisingly walkable. Many travelers—on a short visit and sleeping in the Plaka—find they don’t need to take any public transit at all, once they’re settled into their hotel. But for a longer visit, it’s smart to get comfortable with public transportation, which is useful for reaching the National Archaeological Museum, the port of Piraeus, or the airport.
Athens’ buses, trams, and Metro use the same ticketing system. Note that the city is gradually transitioning from paper tickets to a smart card that’s reusable and rechargeable. Be prepared for either system to be in place. Also note that the tickets described next—except for the tourist ticket—do not cover journeys to the airport (see the Athens Connections chapter for information on getting to and from the airport).
A basic ticket (€1.40, or just €0.60 if over 65 or under 18) is good for 90 minutes on all public transit and covers transfers.
If planning more than three rides in a day, consider the 24-hour ticket (€4.50).
For a longer visit using lots of public transit, you might get your money’s worth with a five-day ticket (€9).
If starting and finishing at the airport, consider the three-day tourist ticket (€22), which includes a round-trip airport transfer on the Metro or Express bus #X95 as well as unlimited in-city travel on all Metro lines, the suburban railway (Proastiakos), the tram, and bus.
You can buy tickets at machines, staffed ticket windows (located at some Metro stations), and some of the newsstands that dot Athens’ streets. On the Metro, be sure to stamp your ticket in a validation machine before you board (look for one near the ticket booth, or at the top of the entrance escalator). For buses, validate your ticket in the orange machine as you board. Tickets only need to be stamped the first time. Those riding without a ticket (or with an unstamped ticket) are subject to stiff fines. If you have a multiride paper ticket, you only need to validate it the first time.
For information on all of Athens’ public transportation, see www.oasa.gr. Beware of pickpockets when taking public transit.
The Metro is the most straightforward way to get around Athens. Just look for signs with a blue M in a green circle. The Metro—mostly built, renovated, or expanded for the 2004 Olympics—is slick and user-friendly. Signs are in both Greek and English, as are announcements inside subway cars. Trains run every few minutes on weekdays, and slightly less frequently on weekends (5:00-24:00, later on Fri-Sat, www.stasy.gr).
The Metro lines are color-coded and numbered. Use the end-of-the-line stops to figure out which direction you need to go.
Line 1 (green) runs from the port of Piraeus in the southwest to Kifissia in the northern suburbs. Because this is an older line—officially called ISAP (Η.Σ.Α.Π.) or electrical train (elektrikos) rather than “Metro”—it is slower than the other two lines. Key stops include Piraeus (boats to the islands), Thissio (enjoyable neighborhood with good restaurants and nightlife), Monastiraki (city center), Omonia (15-minute walk from National Archaeological Museum), and Victoria (10-minute walk from National Archaeological Museum). You can transfer to line 2 at Omonia and to line 3 at Monastiraki (sometimes labeled “Monastirion”).
Line 2 (red) runs from Anthoupoli in the northwest to Helliniko (Elliniko) in the southeast. Important stops include Larissa Station (train station), Omonia (National Archaeological Museum), Syntagma (city center), Akropoli (Acropolis and Makrigianni/Koukaki hotel neighborhood), and Syngrou-Fix (Makrigianni/Koukaki hotels). Transfer to line 1 at Omonia and to line 3 at Syntagma.
Line 3 (blue)—probably the most useful for tourists—runs from Aghia Marina in the west to the airport in the east. Important stops are Keramikos (near Keramikos Cemetery and the lively Gazi district), Monastiraki (city center), Syntagma (city center), Evangelismos (Kolonaki neighborhood, with Byzantine and Christian Museum and National War Museum), and the Airport (requires a separate ticket). Transfer to line 1 at Monastiraki and to line 2 at Syntagma. Line 3 is being extended past Aghia Marina, into Piraeus (the new Piraeus station will open right next to the original one).
Public buses can help connect the dots between Metro stops, though the city center is so walkable that most visitors never ride one. In general, I’d avoid Athens’ slow and overcrowded buses (taxis and Uber are cheap and easy), but there are a few exceptions: Buses #2, #4, #5, and #11 run from Syntagma north up the busy Eleftheriou Venizelou corridor, bearing right on 28 Oktovriou and stopping near the National Archaeological Museum (at the Polytechneio stop). From near Monastiraki (on Athinas street), bus #035 also gets you to the National Archaeological Museum. Express bus #X80 links the cruise terminals to Dionysiou Areopagitou (near the Acropolis Museum). Three special airport buses (€6 each) are also helpful: express bus #X95 to Syntagma Square, express bus #X96 to Piraeus, and express bus #X93 to both bus terminals (bus info: www.oasa.gr).
The Athens Coastal Tram—essentially worthless to tourists—starts at Syntagma and runs 18 miles through the neighborhoods of Neos Kosmos and Nea Smyrni, emerging at the sea near Paleo Faliro. From there it splits: One branch heads north, to the modern stadium and Olympic coastal complex in Neo Faliro (SEF/Σ.Ε.Φ.); the other runs south, past the marinas and beaches to the Voula neighborhood (www.stasy.gr).
The city also has various suburban rail lines, but you’re unlikely to need them. For details, talk to the TI or your hotelier.
Despite the vulgar penchant some cabbies here have for ripping off tourists (especially at the cruise terminals), Athens is a great taxi town. Its yellow taxis are cheap and handy (€3.50 minimum charge covers most short rides in town; after that it’s €0.74/km—tariff 1 on the meter, plus surcharges: €1.20 from Piraeus ports and train and bus stations, €4 from the airport—already included in airport flat rate). Between midnight and 5:00 in the morning or outside the city limits, prices are about 50 percent higher (tariff 2). Outside the city limits, you’re better off negotiating a rate with your driver rather than using the meter, and you are responsible for any tolls. Baggage costs €0.45 for each large suitcase (generally items over 10 kilograms—about 22 pounds). To avoid rip-offs, make sure the meter is on (unless traveling out of the city) and set to tariff 1 (unless it’s the middle of the night). Find out in advance roughly how much the fare should be (ask at hotel or restaurant).
Hotels and restaurants can call to order a taxi (“radio-taxi”), but there’s a €2-4 surcharge. Warning: Cabbies may try to cheat you with a higher surcharge. Hold firm.
Uber works in Athens just as it does at home and is generally cheaper than a taxi (often even half the cost), though there is a €3 minimum charge.
These companies offer excursions from the cruise terminal for individuals and small groups, as well as transfers and tours from Athens: George’s Taxi, run by George Kokkotos and his sons, has a solid reputation (for 4 people or fewer, call Nikolas at 693-220-5887; for larger groups, call Billy at 697-443-0678; www.taxigreece.com, taxigreece@yahoo.com). Olympic Traveller car service, run by Christos Dorzioti, has cars and minivans in Athens and Olympia (tel. 262-402-3908, mobile 697-320-1213, www.olympictraveller.com, info@olympictraveller.com).
Theft Alert: Be wary of pickpockets, especially in crowds. Avoid carrying a wallet in your back pocket, and hold purses or small day bags in front, particularly at the following locations: Monastiraki flea market, Central Market, changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, major public transit routes (such as the Metro between the city and Piraeus or the airport), at the port, and on the main streets through the Plaka, such as Adrianou and Pandrossou.
Emergency Help: The Tourist Police have a 24-hour help line in English and other languages for emergencies (tel. 171 or 1571). Their office, south of the Acropolis in the Makrigianni/Koukaki district, is open 24 hours daily (Veikou 43, tel. 210-920-0724).
Traffic Alert: Streets that appear to be “traffic-free” often are shared by motorcycles or moped drivers weaving their vehicles through the crowds. Keep your wits about you, and don’t step into a street—even those that feel pedestrian-friendly—without looking both ways.
Slippery Streets Alert: Athens (and other Greek towns) have some marble-like streets and red pavement tiles that become very slick when it rains. Watch your step.
Check Sight Hours Locally: The hours for sights in Greece have been known to change without much notice. I’ve listed the posted hours, but it’s smart to check locally for the most up-to-date information.
Free Sights: The Museum of Greek Popular Instruments, National Garden, and all of Athens’ churches have no entry fee.
Sights and museums run by the state, including the Acropolis, are free on all national holidays and on the first Sunday of the month during off-season (Nov-March).
Laundry: A full-service launderette in the heart of the Plaka will wash, dry, and fold your clothes (same-day service if you drop off by noon; Mon and Wed 8:00-17:00, Tue and Thu-Fri until 20:00, closed Sat-Sun; Apollonos 17, tel. 210-323-2226). Athens Studios, one of my recommended accommodations near the Acropolis Museum, operates a self-service launderette (daily 7:00-24:00, Veikou 3A—see map on here, tel. 210-922-4044).
To sightsee on your own, download my series of free audio tours that illuminate some of Athens’ top sights and neighborhoods, including the Acropolis, the Agora, the National Archaeological Museum, and my Athens City Walk (see sidebar on here).
Various companies offer half-day, bus-plus-walking tours of Athens that include a guided visit to the Acropolis (about €55). Longer tours also include a guided tour of the Acropolis Museum (€70).
Some companies also offer a night city tour that finishes with dinner and folk dancing at a taverna (€65) and a 90-mile round-trip afternoon drive down the coast to Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon (€50, not worth the time if visiting ancient sites elsewhere in Greece). These buses pick up passengers at various points around town and near most hotels.
The most established operations include the well-regarded Hop In (modern comfy buses, narration usually English only, tel. 210-428-5500, www.hopin.com), CHAT Tours (tel. 210-323-0827, www.chatours.gr), Key Tours (tel. 210-923-3166, www.keytours.gr), and GO Tours (tel. 210-921-9555, www.gotours.com.gr). It’s convenient to book tours through your hotel; most act as a booking agent for at least one tour company. While hotels do snare a commission, some offer discounts to their guests.
Athens and Beyond: Some of these companies also offer day-long tours to Delphi and to Mycenae, Nafplio, and Epidavros (either tour around €100 with lunch, €85 without), two-day tours to the monasteries of Meteora (from €200), and more. Greek Travelling offers day trips from Athens to the Peloponnese and mainland, as well as airport transfers and customized private tours of Athens (English-speaking drivers, reasonable rates, mobile 697-320-1213, www.greektravelling.com, info@greektravelling.com; charming guides Christos and Niki).
Several hop-on, hop-off bus tour companies offer 1.5-hour loops and 24-hour tickets for €16-20, including CitySightseeing Athens (red buses, www.citysightseeing.gr), Athens Open Tour (yellow buses, www.athensopentour.com), and the cheaper Open Top Bus (blue buses, www.sightsofathens.gr). The main stop is on Syntagma Square, though you can hop on and buy your ticket at any stop—look for signs around town. Because most of the major sights in Athens are within easy walking distance of the Plaka, I’d use this only if I wanted an overview of the city or had extra time to get to the outlying sights.
Two different trains do a sightseeing circuit through Athens’ tourist zone. As these goofy little trains can go where big buses can’t, they can be useful for people with limited mobility. You can catch the Sunshine Express train on Aiolou street along the Hadrian’s Library fence at Agora Square, or near the entrance to the Acropolis Museum (€5, hourly 11:00-22:00, Oct-April Sat-Sun only, 50-minute loop, tel. 211-405-5373, www.athensbytrain.gr, info@athensbytrain.com). The Athens Happy Train is similar, but offers hop-on, hop-off privileges at a few strategic stops (€5, 2/hour 9:00-24:00, 40-minute loop; catch it at the bottom of Syntagma Square or at Monastiraki Square; tel. 213-039-0888, www.athenshappytrain.com).
Athens Walking Tours offers several walks, including just the Acropolis (€29, daily at 11:15, 1.5 hours), the Acropolis and City Tour (€39 plus entry fees, daily at 9:30, 3.5 hours), and their combo Acropolis, City Tour, and Acropolis Museum Tour (€56 plus entry fees, daily at 9:30, 5.5 hours, reserve in advance, tel. 210-884-7269, mobile 694-585-9662, www.athenswalkingtours.gr, Despina). They also offer a food tour, wine tasting tour, and cooking lesson with dinner.
Context Athens’ “intellectual by design” walking tours are geared for serious learners and led by “docents” (historians, architects, and academics) rather than by guides. They cover ancient sites and museums and offer themed walks with topics ranging from food to architecture to the Byzantine era (details on their website, US tel. 800-691-6036, www.contexttravel.com/city/athens).
Alternative Athens delves into the Greek capital’s contemporary side, with a less strict focus on weighty history. They run excellent food tours, as well as walks focusing on street art, Greek designers, Athens’ neighborhoods, and Greek mythology (mobile 694-840-5242, www.alternativeathens.com).
A good way to experience Greek culture is through its cuisine. Several companies offer culinary walking tours around Athens (see here for a rundown).
A good private guide can bring Athens’ sights to life. While there’s some variation, most charge around €50 per hour. I’ve enjoyed working with each of these guides: Effie Perperi (mobile 697-739-6659, effieperperi@gmail.com); Angelos Kokkaliaris (mobile 697-412-7127, www.athenswalkingguide.com, angelo@athenswalkingguide.com); Dora Mavrommati (mobile 694-689-9300, mavrom.dor@gmail.com); Faye Georgiou (mobile 697-768-5503, fayegeorgiou@yahoo.gr); Anastasia Gaitanou (mobile 694-446-3109, anastasia2570@yahoo.com); and Danae Kousouri (mobile 697-353-3219, danaekousouri@gmail.com). Apostolos Douras doesn’t lead tours of the ancient sites, but enjoys showing visitors the modern side of Athens, especially street art (mobile 697-854-4912, adouras@gmail.com).