CHEAP AND CASUAL EATS IN THE CENTER
Home-Style Cooking Near Central Market
SUGAR, CAFFEINE, AND OTHER DRUGS
Greek food is just plain good. And Athens, the melting pot of Greece (and the Balkans), is one of the best places to experience the cuisine, thanks to a stunning variety of tasty and affordable eateries.
I’ve listed these restaurants by neighborhood. You probably won’t be able to resist dining in the touristy Plaka at least once—it’s fun, folkloric, and full of clichés (beware the tourist traps). But don’t be afraid to venture elsewhere. For a trendy and youthful local scene, target Psyrri and Gazi—just beyond the tourist zone. For those staying near the Acropolis Museum in Makrigianni or Koukaki, I’ve listed a couple of convenient options (including my two favorite elegant restaurants in all of Athens).
For advice on eating in Greece, including details on ordering, dining, and tipping in restaurants, types of eateries, and Greek cuisine and beverage descriptions, see the Practicalities chapter.
Restaurants: Locals and tourists alike fill tavernas, mezedopolios (eateries selling small plates called mezedes), ouzeries (bars selling ouzo liquor and pub grub), and other traditional eateries dishing up the basics. Greeks like to eat late—around 21:00 or later. Restaurants in Athens tend to stay open until midnight or even past that.
Smoking: Though smoking is not allowed in indoor spaces, don’t be surprised to find that some restaurants and bars don’t enforce it.
Budget Snacks: To save money and time, try one of Greece’s street-food specialties. Options include souvlaki (meat-on-a-skewer meal), savory pie (filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables), koulouri (bread rings), loukoumades (Greek doughnuts), and more (in this chapter I recommend places to try all of these).
Food Tours: To learn about local eating traditions and sample lots of Greek cuisine, join a food tour; for recommendations, see the sidebar later in this chapter. For a do-it-yourself approach, follow my self-guided walk through the Psyrri neighborhood, which hits several fun eating spots and leads you through the Central Market action. 
See the Psyrri & Central Market Walk chapter.
(See “Athens Restaurants” map, here.)
Diners—Greeks and tourists alike—flock to the Plaka. In this neighborhood, the ambience is better than the food. I’ve avoided the obvious, touristy joints on the main pedestrian drag—with shards of broken plates in the cobbles and obnoxious touts out front luring diners with a desperate spiel—in favor of more authentic-feeling eateries huddled on the quieter hillside just above. Eat at one of my recommendations, or simply choose the place with your favorite view of an ancient monument, on a square that appeals to you, or with live music. Prices are pretty consistent and painless, and the quality is acceptable.
At the top of the Plaka, the stepped lane called Mnisikleous (stretching up toward the Acropolis) is lined with eateries featuring interchangeable food and delightful outdoor seating. Many of these places have live music and/or rooftop gardens.
$$ Geros tou Moria Tavern is a sprawling and venerable place with three eating areas. The tour-group-friendly, powerfully air-conditioned indoor dining hall features a more formal menu and live Greek music and dance (no cover, nightly in summer from 20:15). The more intimate Palio Tetradio (“Old Notebook”) has a terrace, cozy-in-the-winter indoor seating, and more mezedes. Maybe best of all are the tables along the steps under grapevines (daily 9:00-24:00, Mnisikleous 27, tel. 210-322-1753, www.gerostoumoria-restaurant.com).
$$ Scholarhio Ouzeri Kouklis, at the intersection of Tripodon and Epicharmou streets, serves only small plates. While jammed with tourists, it’s fun, inexpensive, and ideal for small groups wanting to try a variety of traditional mezedes and drink good, homemade booze on an airy perch at the top of the Plaka. Since 1935, the Kouklis family has been making ouzo liquor and feeding people here—maintaining a 1930s atmosphere. Waiters present a big platter of dishes, and you choose. Drinks are cheap, and the stress-free €15 meal deals (including dessert) are worth considering. Many wait for a spot to open up on the lively front terrace, but you can instead climb to the upstairs dining room with its romantic balconies for two (daily 11:00-24:00, Tripodon 14, tel. 210-324-7605, www.scholarhio.gr). Show Vasilis and his gang this book and they’ll welcome you with free homemade ouzo—if you ask.
$$$ Xenios Zeus (ΞENIOΣ ZEYΣ) sits proudly at the top of the Mnisikleous steps, offering good, traditional, home-cooking Greek food inside or out on a terrace overlooking Athens’ rooftops (daily 11:00-24:00, closed Nov-March, Mnisikleous 37, tel. 210-324-9514, http://xenioszeus.com.gr). They promise a free bottle of ouzo to diners with this book (be sure to ask).
$$ Klepsidra Café is parked on a characteristic corner high in the Plaka with an island ambience and a somewhat younger and more local crowd. With tiny tables littering the ramshackle steps, they serve light bites, good desserts, traditional coffee, and booze (daily 9:00-24:00, Thrasivoulou 9, tel. 210-321-2493).
$$$ Palia Taverna tou Psara (“Old Fisherman’s Tavern”) is a big, slick, impersonal, pricey eatery that enjoys bragging about the many illustrious guests they’ve hosted since opening in 1898. It’s the kind of place where a rowdy, rollicking group of a hundred can slam down a dish-’em-up Greek meal. While often dominated by tour groups, it can be enjoyable. There’s live folk music (generally Fri-Sat from 20:00) in the lower building and, kitty-corner across the way, a grand rooftop terrace (daily 12:00-24:00, Eretheos 16, tel. 210-321-8734, www.psaras-taverna.gr).
(See “Athens Restaurants” map, here.)
These options are in the gritty urban streets near Syntagma Square and the Plaka—an area that’s more residential and pleasantly less touristic.
$$$$ 2MAZI Restaurant Wine Bar—a play on the Greek word for “together”—began as the collaboration of two well-known local chefs. Filling a tranquil, leafy courtyard, it’s a well-established place to enjoy modern Greek gourmet cooking in a stylish setting with equally stylish locals (daily 13:00-24:00, Nikis 48, tel. 210-322-2839, reservations smart, www.2mazi.gr).
$$$ Tzitzikas and Mermigas (“The Ant and the Cricket”) serves modern, regional Greek cuisine. Choose between two levels of indoor seating in a fun, mod atmosphere—surrounded by vintage grocery ads—or grab a sidewalk table in a bustling urban zone. It’s named for the folktale about a hardworking ant and the lazy cricket who goofs off...only to come asking for help when winter arrives (daily 13:00-24:00, Mitropoleos 12, tel. 210-324-7607).
$$$ Avocado Vegetarian Café is a good bet if you need a yoga-friendly eatery with a passion for organic farming, and nothing with eyeballs. The menu includes pastas, pizzas, veggie burgers, and sandwiches, as well as lots of energy juices (Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-19:00, Nikis 30, tel. 210-323-7878).
$$ Kimolia (Κιμωλία) Art Café is a cute little pastel place at the edge of the Plaka. They have light café fare at reasonable prices, a relaxing vibe, and friendly service. It’s a nice place to take a break (daily 10:00-24:00, Ypereidou 5, tel. 211-184-8446).
$$$ Athinaikon Restaurant, with a heritage going back to the 1930s, is a venerable businessman’s favorite, serving a variety of traditional mezes and Greek, Italian, and other Mediterranean recipes. You’ll dine in a no-nonsense art-deco/modern interior with professional service and a local crowd. It feels polished and international, but still affordable (Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00, Sun until 19:00, a block from the cathedral at Mitropoleos 34, tel. 210-325-2688).
$$$$ Hotel Grande Bretagne’s Roof Garden Restaurant is posh as can be. Perhaps the most venerable place in town to dine on Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, it’s pure fancy-hotel-restaurant elegance—in a rooftop garden with spectacular Acropolis views. If you’re looking to splurge on grand panoramas and fine dining, this is a good choice (daily 13:00-24:00, reservations required for dinner, “smart casual” dress code, on Syntagma Square, tel. 210-333-0766, www.grandebretagne.gr). If you don’t want such an expensive meal, drop by their swanky bar for a pricey beer or cocktail.
My favorite fast-food meal in Greece is souvlaki—it’s quick, cheap, filling, and oh so Greek. As international fast-food places have moved in, the traditional souvlaki stand is a little less ubiquitous than before…but more worthwhile than ever.
Souvlaki is meat—usually pork or lamb—grilled on a little skewer (as its name means) and served on a plate or wrapped in pita bread to make a sandwich. When you get it “to go,” the meat is tucked into a wonderful greasy pita pocket with lettuce, tomato, onions, and tzatziki (cucumber-yogurt-garlic sauce). If you like yours spicy, grab the shaker and sprinkle on some red pepper (or ask the vendor to season it for you). A souvlaki is often bulked up with doughy French fries (which you can opt out of if you speak up). If you order souvlaki in a restaurant, insist on a “souvlaki sandwich” or you’ll generally get a big meaty plate…at an equally meaty price.
The gyro (yee-roh) is a virtually identical type of sandwich made with meat cooked on a spinning vertical rotisserie (also called a gyro, meaning “turn”). The meat—usually pork, chicken, or a combination—is shaved into a steamy, tasty pile and then tucked into a pita with the usual accompaniments.
The kebab—your third “meat on a spindle” option—is also sold at many souvlaki stands. This is basically a long, skinny, uncased sausage made of minced meat, pierced by a souvlaki spindle, and grilled. It’s served the same way as a souvlaki or a gyro: wrapped in pita with tomatoes, onions, and tzatziki.
(This sidebar was written with the help of Matt Barrett, whose GreeceTravel.com website is a wonderful resource.)
(See “Athens Restaurants” map, here.)
The mix of trendy and crusty gives this fun area just north of Monastiraki a unique charm. Your options include slick, touristy tavernas with live traditional music (many are painted in the same Greek saloon style—these places are fresh, formulaic, and part of a chain), highly conceptual café/bars catering to cool young Athenians, and clubs with DJs or live music for partying the night away. While I’ve listed a few restaurants to consider, the scene is ever-changing and the vibe is different each night—you might just wander and see what feels best.
Iroon Square is the lively hub of the action. From there the streets called Agiou Dimitriou and Agion Anargyron are lined with the most accessible and fun places. The third street, Miaouli, which extends from Iroon Square toward Monastiraki, is a younger, university scene—packed with the outdoor tables of unpretentious, local-feeling pubs and tavernas. Lepeniotou and Esopou streets have the most creatively themed café/bars—most of them mellow and colorful—great spots to relax with a drink and appreciate the decor. Each one has its own personality and idiosyncratic style (from Lebanese to Argentinian).
$$ Taverna tou Psyrri is right in the heart of the restaurant action, with checkerboard tablecloths, a garden terrace hidden in the back, a straightforward menu, and good prices (daily 12:00-24:00, Eschilou 12, tel. 210-321-4923).
$$ O Nikitas (Ο Νικήτας) sits on a peaceful square, serving mainly mezedes and good food to a local crowd (Wed-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun-Tue until 18:00, across from church at Agion Anargyron 19, tel. 210-325-2591).
$$ Avli (αυλή; “Courtyard”) is for the adventurous. Stepping through its speakeasy door you’ll find a long, skinny, and thriving courtyard with a jumble of tiny tables and Greeks wondering, “How did that tourist find this place?” They have no menu, instead serving a daily meze plate (daily 12:00-24:00, Agiou Dimitriou 12—look for the small doorway labeled αυλή).
Near Central Market: $$ Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani (Τα Καραμανλίδικα του Φάνη) is my favorite in the area, offering a nice change of pace from the typical Psyrri tavernas. It’s a quality meat-and-cheese shop that doubles as a restaurant. With its mix of authentic Byzantine and Cappadocian flavors, aged cheese, and cured meats, it’s a tasty reminder that many Greek Turks settled here in Athens in the 1920s—bringing their Anatolian cuisine with them. Several dishes include pastourma—meat coated in delicious herbs and spices, similar to pastrami. You’ll enjoy a variety of tasty small plates and the friendly service of Maria and her gang (Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, closed Sun, a block off Athinas at Evripidou 52, tel. 210-325-4184).
Near St. Irene Square: This area, surrounding the Church of St. Irene (Agia Irini) immediately east of Psyrri, has emerged as one of Athens’ top dining and nightlife areas. Simply exploring the fast-changing scene around here is a delight. For a memorable meal, head a block behind the church and turn left to find $$$ Melilotos (ΜΕΛΊΛΩΤΟΣ), a chic but accessible spot with indoor and outdoor seating on a lively lane. The food, melding Greek ingredients and traditions with international influences, is delicious (daily 12:00-24:00, Kalamiotou 19, tel. 210-322-2458, www.melilotos.gr).
(See “Athens Restaurants” map, here.)
$ “Souvlaki Row” near Monastiraki: Monastiraki Square (where it meets Mitropoleos street) is souvlaki heaven, with three frantic restaurants—Thanasis (Θανάσης), Savvas (Σάββας), and Bairaktaris (ΜΠΑΪΡΑΚΤΑΡΗΣ)—spilling into the street and keeping hordes of hungry eaters happy. The dominant operation, Bairaktaris, while not necessarily the best eating value, has a boisterous, fun-loving interior. These places also sell meat shaved from gyros, kebabs, hearty Greek salads, a few other standard Greek dishes, wine, beer, and ouzo. They’re all open daily until very late. A gyro or souvlaki sandwich to go costs about €2—just head inside, order and pay at the cashier, then take your receipt to the counter to claim your moveable meal. It can be tricky to find a comfortable bench or other suitable perch in this crowded neighborhood—plan to munch as you walk. All three places also have table seating, with higher prices and much bigger portions. The ambience is lively, especially at the outdoor tables. A big plate of four souvlaki (plus pita bread, onions, and tomatoes) costs €9-10 and can easily be shared by two or three people; a smaller helping of two souvlaki—plenty for a filling meal (and shareable for light eaters)—runs about €5-6.
Souvlaki on St. Irene Square: $ Kosta (ΚΩΣΤΑ) is a beloved hole-in-the-wall that’s been serving up good souvlaki pitas since the 1940s. This is a classic place: no gyro slices or kebabs...just traditional €2 skewer-roasted souvlaki. You can get it to go or grab a stool on the tiny square facing St. Irene’s Church to enjoy the almost Parisian ambience (Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00, closed Sat-Sun, off Aiolou Street a block north of Ermou).
Savory Pies near Syntagma Square: In business for more than a century, $ Ariston (AΡIΣTON) is one of Athens’ top spots for savory and sweet pastries. Choose between spanakopita (spinach pie), tiropita (cheese pie), kreatopita (minced pork meat pie), meletzanitopita (eggplant pie), and lots more (leek, shrimp, olives and feta, and so on...all labeled in English). They also have lovely sweet desserts made with flaky phyllo (Mon-Sat 7:30-18:00, Tue and Thu-Fri until 21:00, closed Sun; 2 blocks from Syntagma toward the Plaka at Voulis 10, tel. 210-322-7626).
$ Eateries on Aiolou Street: The pedestrianized lane called Aiolou, which runs north from near Monastiraki, offers plenty of fast and affordable options. At the base of Aiolou, Oven Sesame (#17, at intersection with Ermou) makes sandwiches on koulouri (bread rings). A few doors up, Tylixto (#19) rolls up tasty Greek wraps while Lukumades (#21) sells Greek-style doughnuts. Additional options are a few more blocks up, toward the Central Market: Falafellas (#51) is a popular hole-in-the-wall selling falafel sandwiches; Pera (#57) specializes in lachmatzoun—a Middle Eastern flatbread sometimes called “Turkish pizza.” The Central Market area, with many more options, lies just beyond (see next).
(See “Athens Restaurants” map, here.)
These places are packed with locals and in-the-know travelers who’ve done their homework to find basic but good, authentic grub. These are great finds for adventurous diners, or those looking to do as the Athenians do. For more on the market, see the Psyrri & Central Market Walk chapter.
$ Karayiannis Ouzo Bar, in the thick of the Central Market and run by Kostas, is great for a drink and snack. Pay about €3-4 for an ouzo and little plate of mezes to enjoy while you observe the action (on a side aisle, midway down the fish section in the Central Market, Mon-Sat 7:30-15:00—sometimes later, closed Sun). It’s easy to miss—just look for the sign advertising ΜΠΥΡΑ-ΟΥΖΟ-ΤΣΙΠΟΥΡΟ—beer, ouzo, tsipouro (grappa-like brandy).
$$ Diporto, which has been in business since 1887, feels like a time warp. It’s difficult to find—true to its name, it has “two doors” (both painted a drab brown and below ground level) leading to its unfinished-cellar space. On any given day, they have just a few dishes—all simmering in pots on the rustic stove. Service and ambience are basically nonexistent, but local old-timers—who crowd around a few rickety, shared tables—appreciate the cooking (lunch only, closed Sun, Sokratous 9, across from the parking garage entrance of the produce market).
$$ Epirus Tavern (OINOMAΓEIPEIO H. HΠEIPOΣ), in the meat section of the Central Market, is the place for a lowbrow, stick-to-your-ribs meal (though, unfortunately, priced for tourists). This place is known for its meat soups, particularly those made with tripe (Mon-Sat 6:00-19:30, closed Sun, 4 Filopimenos, tel. 210-324-0773).
(See “Athens Restaurants” map, here.)
Residents here must be dizzy at the rapid change sweeping through what was recently a depressed industrial zone. Towering overhead are the square, brick smokestacks of Technopolis, a complex of warehouses, old gasworks, and brick factory buildings that now host galleries and theaters with a world of cutting-edge culture.
Simply ride the Metro to Keramikos. Exiting the station, you’ll emerge at the top of the main square—a delightful park surrounded by streets lined with super-stylish restaurants, clubs, bars, and cafés. While wild-and-alternative places to eat and drink dot the back lanes, the main square is busy with options accessible to any tourist. Stand looking downhill, with the gasworks smokestacks to your back. On the right is a line of clubs and cocktail bars. On the left is a line of happening restaurants. I’ve listed my favorite three (starting just steps away and working downhill).
$$$ A Little Taste of Home serves an eclectic mix of Greek, Middle Eastern, and other international dishes, collected during the travels of owner Ahmad (who’s from Syria). If you’re homesick, they brag that they can prepare just about any recipe you request (with some advance notice). It’s tucked a few steps down the main Gazi restaurant drag, with a clean, cozy, contemporary interior and a few outdoor tables (Tue-Fri 18:30-24:00, Sat-Sun from 13:00, closed Mon, Dekeleon 3, tel. 210-341-0013).
$ Kandavlos Souvlaki, a thriving student hangout with white tables and a clubby crowd, serves the best cheap souvlaki in Gazi. You can choose between takeout or table service (daily 11:00-24:00, Persefonis 47, tel. 210-342-4725).
$$ Gazi College Eatery is a fresh, modern, and inviting place for a light meal or drink in the company of a student crowd that’s typical of the area. It offers a fun menu of international comfort foods—pizzas, pastas, salads, burgers, sandwiches—in a bold interior with a big wall of old books (daily 8:00-24:00, Persefonis 53, tel. 210-342-2112).
(See “Makrigianni & Koukaki Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
The area around the Acropolis Museum—where this neighborhood meets the Plaka—is home to a trendy and touristy row of restaurants, cafés, and ice-cream shops along pedestrian Makrigianni street. The other pedestrian street, Dionysiou Areopagitou, also has plenty of tourist-friendly options between the museum and the Arch of Hadrian. While there are countless hardworking eateries along these streets, the following restaurants are worth serious consideration. For locations, see the map on here.
$$$ Mani Mani offers a touch of class for reasonable prices, with cuisine and ingredients from the Mani Peninsula. The dining is indoors only, and the food, like the decor, is thoughtfully updated Greek. Chef Alex cooks, Yolanda (his wife) greets you, and their staff provides solid service. As this is justifiably popular, reservations are smart (daily 14:00-23:00 in summer, shorter hours off-season, go upstairs at Falirou 10, tel. 210-921-8180, www.manimani.com.gr).
$$$$ Strofi Athenian Restaurant is my choice in Athens for white-tablecloth, elegantly modern, rooftop-Acropolis-view dining. Niko Bletsos and his staff offer attentive service, gorgeously presented plates, and classic Greek cuisine—especially lamb. And though they have a fine air-conditioned interior, the rooftop is comfortable regardless of how hot or cool the evening. For a floodlit Acropolis view, you’ll be glad you made reservations (Tue-Sun 12:00-24:00, closed Mon, about 100 yards down Propyleon street off Dionysiou Areopagitou at Rovertou Galli 25, tel. 210-921-4130, www.strofi.gr).
$$$ Balcony is an upscale but unpretentious restaurant and bar in the heart of the neighborhood. They serve contemporary Greek cuisine accompanied by a good wine list in either the high-ceilinged dining room or up in the roof garden with apartment-building views (daily 12:00-24:00, Veikou 1, tel. 211-411-8437, www.balconyathens.com).
$$ To Kati Allo Restaurant, immediately under the far side of the Acropolis Museum, is the quintessential neighborhood hole-in-the-wall. Run by English-speaking Kostas Bakatselos and his family (including Jennifer, the American daughter-in-law), this place offers both sidewalk seating and fan-cooled inside tables. The blackboard menu features a short list of cheap, fresh, and tasty local options—many of them prepared on the big rotisserie that spins just inside the window (daily 11:00-24:00, just off Makrigianni street at Chatzichristou 12, tel. 210-922-3071).
(See “Athens Restaurants” map, here.)
Baklava: Various bakeries around town sell takeaway portions of this classic Greek treat, but connoisseurs swear by one that started in Istanbul (sorry, Greek patriots). Karaköy Güllüoglu is a nondescript shop on an urban Syntagma street with tempting display cases featuring various types of baklava—both traditional walnut and pistachio, as well as some interesting variations (long hours daily, Nikis 10, tel. 210-321-3959).
Bougatsa, Loukoumades, and Koulouri: These three local specialties are all worth a try. Bougatsadiko Thessaloniki makes some of the best bougatsa—thin pastry with cream inside (if not on display just ask for it; open long hours daily, 1 Iroon Square, tel. 210-322-2088). Krinos (Κρίνος) is famed for its loukoumades—fried Greek doughnuts (Mon-Sat 7:00-17:00, Tue and Thu-Fri until 20:30, closed Sun, 87 Aiolou, tel. 210-321-6852). Koulouri—sesame bread rings, sold at corner carts throughout the city—are a popular Athenian on-the-run snack, especially in the morning. For the best, visit Koulouri of Psyrri (KΟΥΛΟΥΡΙ TΟΥ ΨΥΡΡΗ), which supplies most of the street vendors in the city and where you can try one fresh out of the oven (long hours daily, Karaiskaki 23, tel. 210-321-5962). For more on these bakeries and their specialties, see the Psyrri & Central Market Walk chapter.
Yogurt Bars: These shops invite you to create a build-your-own Greek-yogurt dream. The best places source high-quality (unfrozen) Greek yogurt, then offer a variety of mix-ins—from fresh fruit to honey and nuts to “spoon sweets” (preserves in a variety of exotic flavors). They can also blend in ice and milk to make smoothies. These places are popping up all over the city, so be choosy; one good spot is Fresko Yogurt Bar near the Acropolis Museum (Dionysiou Areopagitou 3). The city also has an abundance of frozen yogurt places (self-service, add mix-ins, pay by weight), but most of these are no different from what you get back home.
Ice Cream: Konstantinidis is a local favorite for ice cream and, after my discerning taste test, I enthusiastically agree. While a chain, they do a good job of embracing their “good old days” heritage (they also have a variety of pastries). You’ll find two branches downtown: Stadiou 3 (3 blocks northwest of Syntagma) and Syngrou Ave 98 (the biggest and best, just beyond the Syngrou-Fix Metro station; see map on here).
(See “Athens Restaurants” map, here.)
If you want good local coffee for half the price of Starbucks—and want your money to stay in Greece—you’ll find handy branches of the local chain Gregory’s (Γρηγόρης) all over town. They have all the typical coffee drinks you’d find at home, plus light bites, pastries, and trendy ambience. The Mikel Coffee chain is a bit pricier and more posh (one handy location is near Syntagma Square at Mitropoleos 3).
For Greek coffee made the traditional way (heated in a tray of hot sand), visit Mokka, near Central Market (daily 6:00-17:00, 44 Athinas, tel. 210-321-6892, see here for a full description).
$$$ By the Glass wine bar is a jazz-cool, relaxed place where you can enjoy a quiet table out on a breezy arcade, or sit at the bar and learn from the server about Greek wines. Their menu includes countless wines by the tiny glass for a euro or two each; the staff can help you assemble a flight. They also serve plates of mixed Greek cheeses and meats, salads, and other upscale nibbles (daily 10:00-24:00, between the Plaka and the National Garden at Y. Souri 3, inside the InnAthens hotel, tel. 210-323-2560).
$$ Heteroclito is a sophisticated-but-unpretentious, urban-feeling wine bar buried in the tight streets near Syntagma Square (facing the cathedral). They serve several carefully curated Greek wines by the glass, along with a short list of accompanying plates (Mon-Sat 12:30-24:00, Sun from 18:00, Fokionos 2 at corner with Petraki, tel. 201-323-9406).
Brettos—the oldest distillery in Athens, dating from 1909—is a popular stop for tourists and locals wanting to taste various shots and wines by the glass. While buried in the Plaka kitsch, it seems a world apart once you step inside and grab a stool under huge old casks and lit-up bottles of colorful liquors (daily 10:00-24:00, just off Adrianou at Kydathineon 41, tel. 210-323-2100).