ΜΟΝΕΜΒΑΣΊΑ / Μονεμβασία
Monemvasia (moh-nehm-vah-SEE-ah), a gigantic rock that juts improbably up from the blue-green deep just a few hundred yards offshore, is a time-warp to the medieval Peloponnese. Its little Lower Town hamlet hides on the seaward side of the giant rock, tethered to the mainland only by a skinny spit of land. This remarkably romantic walled town—with the remains of an even bigger Upper Town scattered along the peak high above—is a stony museum of Byzantine, Ottoman, and Venetian history dating back to the 13th century. Summiting Monemvasia is a key experience on any Peloponnesian visit.
Monemvasia means “single entry”—and the only way to get here is to cross the narrow causeway. At the mainland end of the causeway is the nondescript town of Gefyra (YEH-fee-rah), a smattering of hotels, restaurants, shops, and other modern amenities that offer a handy 21st-century base and springboard for exploring the Rock.
Heading to or from Monemvasia, consider a stop at Mystras, near Sparta. Although the town of Sparta has little of touristic interest, the site of Mystras has well-preserved Byzantine churches (dating from the 13th to 14th century) that evoke the grandeur of the Byzantine Empire before it fizzled.
It takes only a couple hours to see Monemvasia—a stroll through the Lower Town, a hike to the Upper Town, and you’ve done it all. Though doable as a day trip from Kardamyli or Nafplio (2.5-3 hours by car each way), I don’t recommend it. Spending the night in Monemvasia (or mainland Gefyra) allows you to linger on the floodlit cobbles and makes the long trip down here more worthwhile.
Monemvasia is moored to the mainland at the village of Gefyra, where most of its services are located. The road into Gefyra from Sparta becomes the main street, where you’ll find—clustered where the road bends left toward the Rock—the post office, a few ATMs, and an excellent bakery (with a supermarket just up the street). The Malvasia Travel Agency sells bus and shuttle tickets and serves as the town’s bus stop (located at the start of the causeway across from the shuttle bus stop).
After passing through Gefyra, the main road leads to the causeway across to the Rock (Vraxos). The hamlet of Monemvasia itself, which locals call To Kastro (“The Castle”), is out of sight around behind the Rock. To Kastro is divided into the Lower Town (with shops, hotels, and restaurants) and the ruins of the Upper Town high above. Only a dozen or so people actually live in Monemvasia, and it’s fair to say every business there caters to tourists.
A road runs around the base of the Rock from the causeway to Monemvasia’s Lower Town. To get from Gefyra on the mainland to the Lower Town, you have three options: walk (across the causeway, then around the Rock, about 20 minutes); drive (go all the way to the castle gate and then circle back to grab the closest roadside parking spot); or take a shuttle bus (see next).
Gefyra-Monemvasia Shuttle Bus: Use this handy service to avoid the long, hot, and boring walk between Gefyra and old Monemvasia (2/hour, leaves Gefyra on the half hour 8:00-24:00—until 14:00 off-season—and departs the castle a few minutes later, €1.10 each way, buy tickets at Malvasia Travel Agency mentioned earlier or pay driver directly if office is closed; bus is signed Kastro, which means “castle”).
Name Variation: In English the town’s name can also be spelled Monemvassia, Monembasia, or Monembacia. During the Venetian period it was called Malvasia.
Addresses: Locals don’t bother with street numbers, or even names—both Monemvasia and Gefyra are small enough that everyone knows where everything is. If you can’t find something, just ask around. On the Rock, businesses are only allowed on the main drag.
Don’t Needlessly Fry: If climbing to the top of the Rock in the summer, go early or late, as it can be brutally hot at midday. Wear good shoes and bring sun protection (there’s very little shade up there) and carry water (there are no shops up top, but you can buy water at gift shops along the Lower Town’s main drag).
(See “Monemvasia: Lower Town” map, here.)
There are only two things to see in Monemvasia: the walled Lower Town and the castle ruins of the Upper Town high above (free and open 24 hours daily). This self-guided walk covers both.
Begin outside the 17th-century main gate, designed by the Ottomans who were occupying the town at the time (and who knew a thing or two about designing—and breaching—gates like this one). The only public WCs are to the right, in front of the gate.
Look up to the cliff and down to the sea, appreciating how successfully the crenellated wall protected this mighty little nugget of Byzantine power. There are only four entrances: two on this side, one on the opposite side, and one from the sea. Combine that with the ridiculously easy-to-defend little causeway (once equipped with a drawbridge) and the perfect bird’s-eye view from the top of the Rock (ideal for spotting would-be invaders from miles and miles away), and Monemvasia was a tough nut to crack.
Enter the gate. (The stairway inside leads left up to a terrace with a monument noting the fact that the 20th-century poet Yiannis Ritsos—beloved by Greeks but unknown abroad—spent much of his life here.) Inside the gate, notice that the road jogs, preventing you from even getting a peek at the town until you emerge on the other side—another defensive measure. And then...
Mighty Monemvasia, a Gibraltar-like rock with a Crusader-style stone town at its base, has ruins scattered all across its Masada-like plateau summit.
Monemvasia’s Upper Town may have been founded in the sixth century A.D. by refugees fleeing Slavic raids into the Peloponnese. Gradually the settlement spread down the hill and, thanks to its uniquely well-defended position, became a powerful town. It was a center of both trade and military importance, with merchants living below and the nobility living above. In the declining days of the Byzantine Empire (1262-1460), when nearby Mystras was its ecclesiastical base, Monemvasia was its main city and one of the great commercial centers of the Byzantine world, with a thriving population in the tens of thousands. It was known for its Malvasia wine, a lightly fortified red that was prized at the royal courts of Europe. Over the next several centuries, highly strategic Monemvasia changed hands again and again—mostly back and forth between the Venetians and the Ottomans. While most of the buildings that survive today date from the second period of Venetian rule (1690-1715), foundations and architectural elements from each chapter survive.
By the 18th century, Monemvasia slipped into decline...until it was rediscovered by tourists in the 1970s. Today Monemvasia is a leading destination both for international visitors and for wealthy Athenians, who are converting its old houses into weekend retreats.
You’re at the start of Monemvasia’s narrow, cobbled main street. Bear uphill (left) at the fork, through a gauntlet of tourist shops, hotel offices (renting rooms in buildings scattered all over town), and cafés with inviting terraces stretching toward the sea. Elsewhere in town, doors and windows are small, but here—on what’s always been the main commercial drag—the wide, arched windows come with big built-in counters for displaying wares. Enjoy this atmospheric lane, scouting cafés and restaurants for later (see “Eating in Monemvasia”).
At the Edodimopolio local products shop (on the left, near the entry gate), energetic Fotini stocks all sorts of gifty edibles and is happy to offer samples of her honey-wine and olive oil.
The lane leads to the town’s main square, Plateia Dsami—literally “Mosque Square,” a very rare-in-Greece tip of the hat to Ottoman rule. The namesake mosque still stands (the blocky building with the small red dome, on the right). In the middle of the square, notice two symbols of the town: a cannon (Monemvasia was nothing if not well-defended) and a well. Monemvasia is honeycombed with cisterns for catching rainwater...the one thing that a city clinging to a rock floating in the sea needs to survive. Virtually every house—in both the Upper and Lower Towns—had a roof designed to catch water, with pipes plumbed into its walls and its own cellar cistern.
Walk to the edge of this square and survey the rooftops of the Lower Town. Notice a unique feature of Monemvasia houses: sharply angled rooflines, which allowed built-in tile gutters to carefully channel water into those cellar cisterns. Houses are built of stone quarried from right here on the Rock—a very efficient way to get building materials. Whereas the stone walls of many houses are exposed today, historically most houses were covered with plaster (some still are), which once gave the skyline Santorini-like soft edges.
Now turn around and face the Rock and the Upper Town. Notice the stoutly walled, zigzagging path that climbs the cliff face. Halfway up and a little to the right, notice the small cave (with the white entrance) burrowed into the cliff—a humble chapel reached by a precarious footpath. You can see from here that most of the Upper Town is in ruins...but it is fun to explore (described later).
Before leaving the square, do a little sightseeing. The old mosque—which has also served as a church, prison, and coffee shop—today hosts a modest archaeological museum (€2, Tue-Sun 8:00-15:00, closed Mon, tel. 27320-61403). The one-room display, though sparse, is well-presented and well-described in English: pottery fragments, the stone chancel screen (iconostasis) from a long-gone Byzantine church, and an explanation of how many ancient architectural elements were scavenged to build early Christian churches.
Across from the mosque/museum is the whitewashed, 11th-century Church of Christos Elkomenos (“Christ in Pain”). In its day, this was a very important Byzantine church. (The twin platforms in the rear are said to be for the thrones used when the emperor and empress visited from Constantinople.) While this was originally a Byzantine church, the Venetians substantially expanded it: Notice the elaborately carved lintel above the entrance, a sure sign of Venetian influence. The peacock relief above the lintel was added after independence (1820s), as was the bell tower. If open (generally daily 9:00-14:00 & 16:00-20:00), step into the tidy white interior for a serene visit to an Orthodox church. If you’re so moved, drop a coin in the box, light a candle, and say a prayer. Hiding behind the marble iconostasis (peek behind the curtain) is a small reminder of the church’s humble Byzantine origins: old amphitheater-like stone risers where bishops once stood.
The artistic highlight of the entire region is in a small chapel to the right: a precious icon of the Crucifixion dating from around 1300, the peak of the Byzantine Renaissance. As this is the world in which El Greco trained, you could consider it “proto-El Greco.” The emotions portrayed were groundbreaking for the age (English description outside the door). This icon was stolen in the 1970s, making headlines across the country, and is displayed now only with high security.
Although it’s a little town today, Monemvasia was once important enough to be a bishopric. Back outside, to the right as you face the church, notice the entrance to the bishop’s former residence—with the Venetian coat of arms (the winged lion of St. Mark) above the door. You’ll also see that the church is attached by an archway to a small chapel.
Before huffing up to the Upper Town, poke around the Lower Town’s twisty lanes. Descend through the archway to the right of the church. The steps lead down through a maze of steeply cobbled streets to the seawall. A gate (tiny and therefore easy to defend) at the center of the wall leads out to a rocky platform with ladders into the sea for swimmers (there’s a handy shower here).
As you explore, keep in mind that the streets of Monemvasia contain a variety of architectural influences: Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman. Wandering the streets of the Lower Town, you might notice pointed archways or large lintels (stones over windows), which are distinctively Venetian; or occasional tulip-shaped windows (curling on top with a little peak in the middle), which are unmistakably Turkish. Notice the many arched passageways spanning narrow lanes—the only way a crowded, walled town could grow. Quite a few houses are still in ruins, but with Monemvasia’s tourism on the rise, many of these are now being excavated and rebuilt. Because the town is protected, restoration requires navigating a lot of red tape and giving painstaking attention to historical accuracy.
You’ll notice lots of little churches. In Byzantine times, ecclesiastical and political power overlapped, and building a church gave a wealthy family more prestige and power. Also, a trading town like this would have been home to communities from different lands—each with its own style of worship and particular church.
Each significant site around town is numbered and explained by posted information...but there’s no need to get bogged down by those details. Just have fun with the perfect medieval streetscapes awaiting discovery around each turn.
When you’re ready to climb the Rock, make your way to the top of town and huff up the steep path to the...
The ruins of the Upper Town are spread across a broad, rolling plateau at the summit of the Rock. Unlike the well-preserved Lower Town, very little of the Upper Town has survived intact. The last weary resident left the plateau nearly a century ago, and it is now a wasteland of ruined old buildings, engulfed by a sea of shrubs and wildflowers that seem to sprout from the rocks. As you explore up here, watch your step—sudden cliffs, slippery rocks (especially treacherous when wet), and open cisterns are genuine hazards.
Nearing the top of the trail, curl through yet another defensive gateway. The door here, with its metal casing, is likely 18th-century Ottoman—and is probably the best artifact surviving in the Upper Town. As you emerge onto the top, observe the collection of buildings to your right at the gate (with fine views onto the Lower Town from the tiny square) and the Church of Agia Sophia above you to the left. The best way to enjoy the top of the Rock is to let your inner child take over for a king- or queen-of-the-castle scramble across the ramparts and ruins.
Follow the trail up to the 12th-century Byzantine Church of Agia Sophia. Thanks to recent erosion, the church hangs precariously (and scenically) close to the edge of a sheer cliff. Like so many buildings here, the church has elements from various eras of history: a Byzantine core (it retains its original octagonal design), with Ottoman elements (most now gone, but you can still see the prayer niche, or mihrab), and a triple-arched loggia grafted onto the front in the 16th century by the Venetians. The interior was whitewashed when it was converted into a mosque under Turkish rule, but fragments of original frescoes survive.
From here you can climb higher up the hill for good views back down onto the church. If you want to lengthen your hike, you can climb all the way to the acropolis, the fortification near the peak of the Rock (visible from here). Or, for an easier walk, head downhill to the crenellated watchtower area out toward the sea; this promontory has the best views back up to the church.
As you explore the site, remember that this was regarded as the mightiest fortress in Byzantine Greece. Not surprisingly, it was never captured in battle—only by a protracted starve-’em-out siege. Monemvasia’s Achilles’ heel was its dependence on the mainland for food. And though some basic supplies were cultivated atop the Rock, it wasn’t enough to sustain the entire town for very long.
Back near the entrance gateway, consider heading right along the wall (as you face the Lower Town and water) for good views back down onto the Lower Town. If you continue farther along this path, you’ll reach an old Turkish house, and then the granddaddy of all the town’s cisterns: a cavernous vaulted hall.
Our tour of the Rock is finished. When you’re done enjoying the views and the evocative ruins, head back down the way you came up.
Monemvasia is touristy yet peaceful and romantic after dark, with several bars and cafés open late, and plenty of rooftop seating. Everything of interest is along the one business street or on the town square. My choice for a drink is the Enetiko Café Cocktail Bar (about 100 yards in from the gate, with great cocktails, a chill vibe, and a view terrace).
The long walk between the mainland and the old town can be nerve-wracking at night with little light and cars dodging pedestrians. I’d take advantage of the shuttle bus that goes on the half-hour until midnight in high season (see “Helpful Hints,” earlier). Evenings along the harborfront in Gefyra can be delightful, too, with plenty of places for a drink or meal.
Peak-season demand drives prices up in July and August—especially on weekends, when this is a popular retreat for Athenians. Off-season, you can usually get a deal.
Sleeping in Monemvasia’s old Lower Town, romantic and appealing to many, is a lot of work because you can’t park nearby. Various hotels rent rooms scattered through old buildings. All of them have decor that mixes new and old, with old-fashioned Monemvasia flourishes (such as low platform beds, tight bathrooms, head-banging archways, and stone shower enclosures without curtains). Keep in mind that Monemvasia is a honeycomb of cobblestone alleys and stairs. Luggage with wheels won’t work here. If you stay on the Rock, be prepared to carry your luggage to your hotel (drivers might want to cram essentials into a daypack).
I’ve listed two “hotels” that are actually a reception desk near the entry gate managing mostly elegantly remodeled rooms scattered throughout the Lower Town. Review their websites and compare what they offer.
$$ Byzantino Hotel rents 25 tastefully old-fashioned rooms in the Lower Town, some with sea views and balconies (breakfast extra at their café, tel. 27320-61351, www.hotelbyzantino.com, info@hotelbyzantino.com). Avoid the pricey rooms in their Lazareto Hotel, outside the Lower Town, just across the causeway from the mainland.
$$ Malvasia Hotel is a collection of 25 rustic but atmospheric rooms around town in three different buildings (tel. 27320-61160, www.malvasiahotel-traditional.gr, malvasia@otenet.gr).
Sleeping in the mainland town of Gefyra lacks the romance of spending the night in old Monemvasia, but it’s less expensive and easier. The following listings are each a solid value if rooms in Monemvasia are booked up, or for those who’d rather trade atmosphere for the convenience of parking a few steps from their room.
$$ Hotel Panorama is well-run by friendly Angelos and Rena Panos. At the top of Gefyra, a 10-minute hike up from the main street, it’s quiet and comes with great views. Its 27 comfy rooms all have balconies; some have sea views (family rooms, no elevator, tel. 27320-61198, www.panoramahotel-monemvasia.gr, info@panoramahotel-monemvasia.gr).
$$ The Flower of Monemvasia is a pleasant family-run hotel along the main road near the causeway with 20 rooms, most with a balcony (breakfast extra, no elevator, tel. 27320-61395, www.flower-hotel.gr, info@flower-hotel.gr).
$$ Hotel Pramataris offers 22 good-value rooms across the street from The Flower of Monemvasia. All rooms have balconies; most have views of the Rock (no elevator, tel. 27320-61833, www.pramatarishotel.gr, hotelpr@hol.gr).
$$ Anastatios Sofos is the cheaper option, with eight bare-bones rooms along the main road (no breakfast, tel. 27320-61202, speaks just enough English).
(See “Monemvasia: Lower Town” map, here.)
The first two eateries are along the main pedestrian artery of Monemvasia’s Lower Town, just before the main square.
$$$ Matoula (Ματούλα), with its delightful vine-shaded terrace looking out to sea, is the most appealing of the restaurants on the Rock. Amid all the pretense of this town, it serves good traditional Greek dishes at fine prices. Consider the daily specials and barbounia (red mullet), or ask owner Venetia about the daily specials (seafood splurges, daily 12:00-late, tel. 27320-61660).
$$$ To Kanoni (“The Cannon”), next door to Matoula, is another good choice, with a cozy interior and a scenic upper veranda (pricier seafood dishes, daily 10:00-late, tel. 27320-61387, say hi to Petros). I like the tables on the cool rooftop terrace with a view down on the old square.
$$ Voltes Mezedopolio, a cozy little place just inside the gate, is run by two hardworking brothers and makes a good stop for mezes to enjoy family-style. The restaurant has no view, but the atmosphere is friendly and the prices are very good.
(See “Monemvasia Overview” map, here.)
A collection of interchangeable eateries cluster like barnacles at the Gefyra end of the causeway. In good weather, it’s pointless to eat anywhere here without a view of the Rock. I like to walk along the water (on either side of the causeway) and survey the options.
At $$ Taverna Scorpios, Vasillis and Julie share duties cooking and taking good care of diners at rustic white tables under a blue canopy. It has a castaway ambience and my favorite views of the Rock (daily 12:00-24:00, tel. 27320-62090).
$$ Taverna Asterias is a place where your chair can settle into the pebbles of the beach while friendly Spiro cooks fresh fish daily for lunch and dinner. When it’s cold, dine indoors by the cozy open fireplace (to the left of the causeway as you face the Rock, tel. 27320-61633).
Fast Food and Picnics: For a quick snack, two side-by-side $ souvlaki grills are equally good for souvlaki and gyros (eat-in with the locals or takeaway; located in the center a block from the causeway). The bakery on Gefyra’s main street (near the post office) is wonderful, and the supermarket just up the side street from there will help you round out your moveable feast for the top of the Rock. While you can buy basic drinks and snacks in Monemvasia’s Lower Town, there’s no grocery store there—do your shopping in Gefyra.
By Bus: Monemvasia is not well connected by bus and has no bus station. Buses stop across the street from the Malvasia Travel Agency, just before the causeway; you can buy tickets on the bus or at the travel agency (recommended a day in advance in busy times, tel. 27320-61752).
Four to five buses leave for Sparta each day (likely at 4:45, 7:15, 14:15, and 17:30; Mon and Fri also at 8:30; 2 hours); these continue on to Tripoli (4 hours total) and then Athens (6 hours total). You’ll need to change in Sparta to reach just about anywhere else, such as Areopoli on the Mani Peninsula (3 hours from Sparta). Change in Tripoli for Nafplio (1.5 hours from Tripoli).
By Shared Taxi: Hotels can arrange a shared taxi to Athens (€40/person, 4 hours, departs early each morning).
Monemvasia’s a bit out of the way, but the trek is worth it. Allow 2.5 hours from Kardamyli (consider a pit stop in Gythio, a workaday port town with fine harborfront restaurants, about 1.5 hours from Monemvasia) or roughly 3 hours from Nafplio (on the fast road via Sparta and Tripoli). If you pass through Sparta en route, you can easily fit in a visit to the nearby Byzantine city and churches of Mystras (see next section).
You can speed on the highway for most of the route between Nafplio and Monemvasia, but you’d be missing one of the most stunning scenic drives in Greece: The coastal road between Nafplio and cute little Leonidio is very pretty, and the twisty cliffside uphill from (or downhill to) Leonidio is jaw-dropping. The mountain town of Kosmas is good for a quick break. Between Monemvasia and Kosmas, look for signs to Skala and Vrontamas. The route requires a little planning (as roads aren’t well marked) and isn’t for the squeamish. Even with a GPS on board, it’s a good idea to ask your hotelier for route tips.
Located roughly between Kardamyli, Monemvasia, and Nafplio, the town of Sparta (which is nothing much) is near the site of Mystras, which is worth a stop. Its impressive Byzantine churches are fine examples of the empire’s last Golden Age.
Sparta (Σπάρτη)—where mothers famously told their sons to “come home with your shield...or on it”—is a classic (and, I hope, thought-provoking) example of how little a militaristic society leaves as a legacy for the future.
The ancient Sparta that dominated Greek affairs in the sixth and fifth centuries B.C. isn’t one visitors can experience: The various excavation sites around town go down no farther than the level of Roman Sparta, which was built on the foundations of the classical city from the first century B.C.
One reason why so little remains is that the town was abandoned in the 13th century, and its buildings were dismantled for reuse in the construction of nearby Mystras. Sparta was reestablished in 1834 on the initiative of King Otto and his Bavarian court, whose classical education had given them a strong appreciation of Sparta’s place in history. Otto ordered his planners to create a city of wide boulevards and parks; today Sparta looks more like 19th-century Bavaria than the home of Spartan hero King Leonidas.
Sparta, built on a grid system, is easier to navigate than many Greek cities. Coming from Monemvasia or Gythio, you’ll enter on Palaeologou and head through town, past the main square, until the main drag reaches a statue of King Leonidas. (Below the statue is written his famous taunt before the Persians slaughtered him and his last 300 troops in 380 B.C.: “Come and get it.”) A block before the statue, in the median, a monument honors 27 centuries of hometown athletes—medalists in Olympic Games from 720 B.C. to A.D. 1996 (mostly for running and wrestling).
The acropolis of ancient Sparta is signposted from the statue of Leonidas. It’s a pleasant 10-minute walk, but the ruins that lie scattered among the olive trees are Roman-era or later. The main feature of the excavations is an impressive Roman theater; however, much of its stone seating was removed and used in the defensive wall built around the city’s acropolis in the fourth century A.D.
Mystras (Μυστράς), four miles west of Sparta, is the most important Byzantine site in Greece. It was here, in the foothills of the Taygetos Mountains, that the Byzantine Empire enjoyed a final dazzling period of creative energy (1262-1460) before it was swallowed up by the Ottomans.
The main attractions in Mystras are its churches—regarded as some of the finest surviving examples of late Byzantine architecture in Greece. The extravagantly decorated frescoes were painted by the empire’s greatest artists (although their names sadly went unrecorded). Because of ongoing restoration work, some of the churches may be closed when you visit.
Cost and Hours: €12, €6 off-season, Mon-Sat 8:00-20:00, Sept until 13:30, Oct until 17:30, Nov-March until 15:00; Sun 8:00-15:00 year-round (ticket valid for same-day reentry); tel. 27310-83377.
Services: There’s a good restaurant a block below the entrance. If you have a car, consider driving to the next village, Pikoulianika, which has a handful of rustic tavernas, including Restaurant Chromata (open for dinner), offering good views over Mystras and Sparta (5 minutes from the Upper Gate—follow signs). The only WC in the site is before entering.
The last rulers of the Byzantine Empire were the Palaiologos “despots”—but they were not tyrants; the name comes from a subdivision of the Byzantine church called a “despotate.” Under the Palaiologos family, Mystras became the Byzantine Empire’s cultural and intellectual capital. It was home to many great artists and to the philosopher Plethon, who was responsible for the revival of Plato’s teachings. Plethon and other scholars based here had a major impact on the Italian Renaissance, especially after he visited Florence in 1438.
After the fall of Constantinople to the Ottomans in 1453, the Byzantine emperors retreated here, and Mystras became the last outpost of their empire. But Mystras’ Golden Age came to an end when the city surrendered to the Turks a few years later in 1460.
While Mystras is many centuries old, it was a thriving center until more modern times: Mystras had about 15,000 people living within its walls even during Muslim Ottoman rule (1460-1828). During that period, the sultan appointed the Orthodox patriarch, who was allowed to carry on if he didn’t cause trouble. You’ll see only one mosque in the entire site (built for the sultan’s bureaucracy).
Then, with Greek independence in the early 1800s, the Ottomans were expelled. King Otto consolidated power in part by dissolving the Orthodox monasteries and nationalizing the Greek Orthodox Church. He shut down Mystras and turned the great city into a quarry, providing stone for the building of modern Sparta. (He dreamed of making Sparta and Athens twin cities for his new Greece.) It’s interesting to note that ancient Sparta served as a quarry for the building of Mystras, and then Mystras served as a quarry for the rebuilding of 19th-century Sparta.
The gangly site stretches halfway up the mountain. Tour groups start at the top Upper Gate entrance (about a mile up the road) and see Mystras as a long downhill walk—convenient if you can find a ride to the top entrance. Drivers can strategically divide the visit in two segments—park and start at the lower Main Gate entrance, then drive to the top for the rest of the site (showing your ticket to reenter). I’ll assume you’ll park at the Main Gate and see the site by zigzagging uphill and then retracing your steps back down to leave. Here are the main stops from the bottom to the top.
Metropolis (St. Demetrius Cathedral): The cathedral was built in 1270 and dedicated to St. Demetrius. Stepping into the courtyard, you see columns recycled from ancient Sparta, the bishop’s residence, and a fountain built with a mishmash of ancient plunder. Inside the cathedral are more ancient columns. The double-headed eagle relief set into the floor in the center commemorates the coronation of the last Byzantine emperor, which took place here in 1449. (Since ancient times, the double-headed eagle has been the symbol of anyone considering himself the successor of the Roman emperor—like Byzantine emperors, Habsburg rulers, and Holy Roman Emperors.)
Museum: From the courtyard, steps lead to a small museum (featuring old holy books, marbles, artifacts from local graves). Before leaving the courtyard enjoy the uphill view of the rest of Mystras. The lower zone was for the common people and merchants (and this cathedral). The upper zone was for the nobility and ruling elite. The intact building directly above is the Palace of the Despots (described later). Imagine the despot surveying his realm from that perch.
Churches of Theodoros and Aphentiko: Beyond the Metropolis, a path slopes gently uphill to the right. This takes you to the churches of Agios Theodoros and Aphentiko, nestled below a grove of tall cypress trees. It’s worth the detour just to admire the frescoes and the magnificent, multiple red-tiled domes of the Aphentiko.
Convent and Church of Pantanassa: Opposite the Metropolis, a steep path leads up toward the imposing Church of Pantanassa. The only living part of Mystras, it’s home to six sweet, elderly, black-veiled nuns who live in a row of small rooms (on the left as you enter the church’s walled compound). They tend the flower gardens and produce linen embroidered with Byzantine motifs, sold in the small shop at the end of the row. (A sister told me they actually have my guides and me on their prayer list in thanks for the thoughtful visitors who come here with this book and on our tours and buy their handmade embroidery work. Please, buy their delightful little souvenirs...I can use the prayers.) The church here is home to Mystras’ best collection of frescoes and more columns and capitals plundered from ancient Sparta.
Monemvasia Gate: From the convent, retrace your steps to the path where you arrived below and continue uphill, following signs to the palace through the well-fortified gate (the name means “only one entrance”). The gate provided the only access between the lower town and the upper town, where the noble and powerful lived.
Palace of the Despots: The original palace is the closest wing of the building on the right, which was built by the Crusaders. Although the palace has been closed to the public for many years, you can check out the pointed Gothic arches of the top-floor windows—a favorite motif found at other Crusader castles around the Peloponnese. In the final decades of their rule, the Palaiologos despots built the second wing. Its massive central hall, which covers the entire second floor, served as their throne room. From here, drivers can choose to retrace their steps back to the exit and drive to the Upper Gate—saving more energy than time—or continue on foot.
St. Nicholas Church, Church of St. Sofia, Top Entry, and Crusader Castle: The top part of the site is a long climb (not worth the sweat for many if it’s hot). The St. Nicholas Church (which comes first) is most interesting and worth hiking up to see. It was built in the early 1600s, during Ottoman rule. Near the top entry is the Church of St. Sofia. High above, capping the mountain, stands the Crusader Castle, built in 1249 and offering a commanding view into a 400-yard-deep gorge and out across the Peloponnese.