ΎΔΡΑ / Ύδρα
Sights and Activities in Hydra
GETTING BETWEEN ATHENS AND HYDRA
GETTING BETWEEN HYDRA AND THE PELOPONNESE
Hydra (pronounced EE-drah, not HIGH-drah)—less than a two-hour boat ride from Athens’ port, Piraeus—is a glamorous getaway that combines practical convenience with idyllic Greek island ambience. After the noise of Athens, Hydra’s traffic-free tranquility is a delight. Donkeys rather than cars, the shady awnings of well-worn cafés, and memorable seaside views all combine to make it clear...you’ve found your Greek isle.
The island’s main town, also called Hydra, is one of Greece’s prettiest. Its busy but quaint harbor—bobbing with rustic fishing boats and luxury yachts—is surrounded by a ring of rocky hills and blanketed with whitewashed homes. From the harbor, a fleet of zippy water taxis whisks you to isolated beaches and tavernas. Hydra is an easy blend of stray cats, hardworking donkeys, welcoming Hydriots (as locals are called), and lazy tourists on “island time.”
One of the island’s greatest attractions is its total absence of cars and motorbikes. Sure-footed beasts of burden—laden with everything from sandbags and bathtubs to bottled water—climb stepped lanes. While Hydra is generally quiet, dawn teaches visitors the exact meaning of “cockcrow.” The end of night is marked with much more than a distant cock-a-doodle-doo; it’s a dissonant chorus of catfights, burro honks, and what sounds like roll call at an asylum for crazed roosters. After the animal population gets all that out of its system, the island slumbers a little longer.
Little Hydra—which has produced more than its share of military heroes, influential aristocrats, and political leaders—is packed with history. Rusted old cannons are scattered about town; black, pitted anchors decorate squares; and small museums hold engaging artifacts. But most visitors enjoy simply being on vacation here. Loiter around the harbor. Go on a photo safari for donkeys and kittens. Take a walk along the coast or up into the hills. Head for an inviting beach, near or far, to sunbathe and swim. Hang out past your bedtime in a cocktail bar. Hydra’s the kind of place that makes you want to buy a bottle of ouzo and toss your itinerary into the sea.
While Hydra can be done as a long day trip from Athens, it’s better to spend at least two nights to take full advantage of the island’s many dining options, and to give yourself a whole day to relax. Even if you’re visiting Mykonos, Santorini, or other Greek islands, Hydra has a totally different vibe and is still the best place I know of to take a vacation from your Greek vacation.
To get your bearings, take my brief self-guided walk as soon as you arrive. While the walk gives you the historic context of the town, it also points out practical stops that will make your stay more efficient and enjoyable (and finishes at a wonderful little bakery). You’ll still have ample time for your choice of activities: Dip into a museum that tickles your curiosity, enjoy a drink at a café, go for a hike into the hills, walk along the water to nearby villages and beaches, or catch a shuttle boat or water taxi for a spin around the island.
Remember, Hydra is the name of both the island and its main town (home to about 90 percent of the island’s 2,000 residents). Hydra town climbs up the hill in every direction from the port.
Branching off from the broad café-lined walkway at the bottom of the harbor are four major streets. In order from the boat dock, these are called Tompazi, Oikonomou, Miaouli, and Lignou. Not that street names mean much in this town—locals ignore addresses, and few lanes are labeled. Though the island is small, Hydra’s streets twist defiantly to and fro. If seeking a specific location, use the map in this chapter or ask a local (note that most maps of Hydra, including mine, show the harbor—which is actually to the north—at the bottom). Expect to get lost in Hydra...and enjoy it when you do.
Consider venturing beyond Hydra town to settlements and beaches elsewhere on the island. The most accessible is the tiny seaside hamlet of Kaminia, which lies just over the headland west of the harbor (with a good recommended restaurant).
Tourist Information: Hydra has no TI, but most of the hoteliers I’ve listed here are happy and willing to help. You can also check www.hydra.gr and the more basic www.hydra.com.gr.
All ferry boats dock in the heart of Hydra town’s harbor, along its eastern edge (for details on how to get to Hydra, see “Hydra Connections” at the end of this chapter). Nearly all of my recommended accommodations are within a 10-minute walk of the harbor. At the port you can hire a donkey to carry your bags (€10-15, establish the price up front). If you ask, better hotels will often meet you at the boat and help with your bags.
As there are no cars, your options are foot, donkey, or boat. You’ll walk everywhere in town. You can hike to neighboring beaches, but it’s fun to hop a shuttle boat (about €3 to Vlychos—due to Greek laws you may have to pay for a round-trip ticket even if you only use it one-way; departures about every 30 minutes in high season from in front of Hotel Sophia) or take a water taxi (much more expensive unless you’re a small group—same rate for one person or eight). You’ll see the red taxi boats stacked and waiting near the donkeys on the harborfront. Sample taxi fares: €12 to Kaminia, €17 to Vlychos (there’s a fare board lashed to the pole by the taxi dock, with the English translation hiding on the back side). To get back to town by water taxi, call 22980-53690.
Summer Weather: Hydra can get extremely hot, especially in July and August when temperatures can reach near scorching. While other islands receive bursts of breezy north winds granting temporary reprieve, the entire island of Hydra is cut off from nature’s air-conditioning by the Attica peninsula. Before you head out for the day, make sure you’re prepared with sunscreen and plenty of water.
Drinking Water: The island’s name means “water” in ancient Greek, but it was named a long, long time ago: Today there’s no natural water source on Hydra (other than private cisterns). Until recently, water was barged in daily. But with EU help, Hydra now has a seawater desalination plant, giving the island a reliable water supply and drinkable tap water.
(See “Hydra Town” map, here.)
Hydra clusters around its wide harbor, squeezed full of fishing boats, pleasure craft, luxury yachts, and the occasional Athens-bound ferry. Get the lay of the land with this lazy 30-minute self-guided stroll.
• Begin at the tip of the port (to the right, as you face the sea). Climb the stairs (by the wall of cactus) to the cannon-studded turret. From here you have a fine...
The harbor is the heart and soul of Hydra. Imagine it as an ancient theater: The houses are the audience, the port is the stage, the boats are the actors...and the Saronic Gulf is the scenic backdrop.
This little town has a history rich with military might, political power, and artistic sophistication. Looking at the arid, barren mountains rising up along the spine of the island, it’s clear that not much grows here—so Hydriots have always turned to the sea for survival. As islanders grew wealthy from the sea trade, prominent local merchant families built the grand mansions that rise up between the modest whitewashed houses blanketing the hillsides. One of these—the Lazaros Kountouriotis Historical Mansion—is open to the public (the yellow mansion with the red roof and open terrace facing you, high on the hill across the harbor to the right, near the small red bell tower; described later).
Look directly across the mouth of the harbor. Along the base of the walkway, under the seafront café tables, is the town’s closest “beach,” called Spilia (“Cave”)—a concrete pad with ladders luring swimmers into the cool blue. For a more appealing option, you can follow the paved, mostly level path around this point to the fishing hamlet of Kaminia (with a scenic recommended restaurant) and, beyond that, to Vlychos (for the best beach around). Visually trace the ridgeline above that trail, noticing the remains of two old windmills—a fixture on many Greek islands, once used for grinding grain and raw materials for gunpowder. The windmills’ sails are long gone, but the lower one was restored for use as a film prop (for the Sophia Loren film Boy on a Dolphin). Crowning the hill high above are the scant ruins of Hydra’s humble little acropolis.
• Turn your attention to the centerpiece of this viewpoint, the...
The guy at the helm is Admiral Andreas Miaoulis (1768-1835), an Hydriot sea captain who valiantly led the Greek navy in the revolution that began in 1821. This war sought to end nearly four centuries of Ottoman occupation. As war preparations ramped up, the wealthy merchant marines of Hydra transformed their vessels into warships. The Greeks innovated a clever and deadly naval warfare technique: the “fireship.” (For details, see the Historical Archives Museum listing, later.) While this kamikaze-burning strategy cost the Greeks a lot of boats, it was even more devastating to the Ottoman navy—and Miaoulis’ naval victory was considered a crucial turning point in the war. For three days each June, Hydra celebrates the Miaoulia Festival, when they set fire to an old ship to commemorate the burning of the Ottoman fleet.
On the monument, the cross that hangs from the steering column represents the eventual triumph of the Christian Greeks over the Muslim Ottomans. Miaoulis’ bones are actually inside the stone pedestal under the statue.
• Head back down the stairs and begin walking along the harborfront.
About 50 yards down is the stout stone mansion that houses the Historical Archives Museum. This small but good collection (described later, under “Sights and Activities in Hydra”) does its best to get visitors excited about Hydra’s history. The gap after the museum is filled with monuments honoring Hydriot heroes. The green plaque in the pillar is a gift from Argentina to honor an Hydriot aristocrat who fought in the Argentinean war for independence. The next building is the Merchant Marine Academy, where Hydra continues to churn out sailors—many of whom often hang around out front. (During the WWII occupation of Greece, this building was used as a Nazi base.) Next, the row of covered benches along the water marks the embarkation point for the ferries (“Flying Dolphin” hydrofoils and “Flying Cat” catamarans) that connect Hydra to Athens and other Greek islands for those of us who lack yachts of our own.
Notice the three flags to the right—specifically, the flag of Hydra. Dating from the uprising against the Ottomans, it’s loaded with symbolism: the outline of the island of Hydra topped with a flag with a warrior’s helmet, a cross, and an anchor—all watched over by the protective eye of God. The inscription, H ΤΑΝ H ΕΠΊ ΤΑΣ, means “with it or on it,” and evokes the admonition of the warlike Spartans when sending their sons into battle with their huge shields: Come back “with it,” victorious and carrying your shield; or “on it,” dead, with your shield serving as a stretcher to carry your body home.
When you reach the corner of the harbor, you’ll likely see donkeys and mules shooing flies as they wait to plod into town with visitors’ luggage lashed to their backs. The donkeys are not just a touristy gimmick, but also a lifestyle choice: Hydriots have decided not to allow any private motorized vehicles on their island, keeping this place quiet and tranquil, and reducing pollution (now just donkey poop). This means that, aside from a few garbage trucks or emergency vehicles, these beasts of burden are the only way to get around. It’s not unusual to see one with a major appliance strapped to its back, as it gingerly navigates the steps up to the top of town. Locals dress their burros up with rugs, beads, and charms. Behind each mule-train toils a human pooper-scooper. On Hydra a traffic jam looks like a farm show. And instead of the testosterone-fueled revving of moped engines, Hydra’s soundtrack features the occasional distant whinnying of a donkey echoing over the rooftops.
In the same corner as the donkeys is the dock for the feisty fleet of red water taxis. These zip constantly from here to remote points around the island. Meanwhile, simple fishing boats squeeze between the luxury yachts to put in and unload their catch...eyed hungrily by scrawny cats.
Hang a right and continue along the bottom of the harbor. At this corner (next to the Alpha Bank) is Sahtouri street, which soon becomes Tompazi, and quickly devolves into a twisty warren of lanes with many hotels. Continue along the harbor, past a tiny dead-end lane leading to a good bakery. As you stroll, window-shop the cafés and choose one to return to later. Overhead, notice the ingenious rope system the seafaring Hydriots have rigged so that they can quickly draw a canopy over the seating area—like unfurling the sails on a ship—in the event of rain...or, more common here, overpowering sunshine. Next, skinny Oikonomou street leads to shops and the open-air Gardenia Cinema. A few steps farther, another narrow lane leads to the post office, public WC, and Hydra’s ramshackle little market hall.
Hydra is known for its jewelry. A few shops right here on the harbor, such as Zoe’s and Elena Votsi, sell the handiwork of Hydriot designers and artists (Votsi is locally famous as the designer of the 2004 Olympic medals). Many Hydra hoteliers supplement their income by running jewelry and souvenir shops, often with the same name as their hotels (good to know if you need to find your hotelier at midday). The next street, Navarhou Miaouli, bustles with appealing tavernas.
Shuttle boats line up along the next stretch of the quay. They offer cheap rides to points around the island—a service much appreciated by the owners of Hydra’s many remote cafés and tavernas (but which annoys the water-taxi drivers).
• Near the far corner of the harbor stands a symbol of Hydra, the clock tower of the...
Hydra’s ecclesiastical center is dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin. “Dormition”—as in “sleep”—is a Greek euphemism for death. Orthodox Christians believe Mary died a human death, then (like her son) was resurrected three days later, before being assumed into heaven.
Go through the archway under the tower, and you’ll emerge into what was, until 1832, an active monastery. The double-decker arcade of cells circling the courtyard was once the monks’ living quarters; it now houses the offices of the city government and mayor.
The monastery’s church, which doubles as Hydra’s mitropolis (cathedral), is free to enter. Stepping inside, it’s clear that this was a wealthy community—compare the marble iconostasis, silver chandelier, gorgeous Pantocrator dome decoration, rich icons, and frescoes with the humbler decor you’ll see at small-town churches elsewhere in Greece. Just inside the door (to the left), the icon of the Virgin and Child is believed to work miracles. Notice the many votive rings and necklaces draping it as a thank-you for prayers answered.
Back in the courtyard, you’ll see war memorials and monuments to beloved Hydriots. The humble Byzantine Museum (also called the “Ecclesiastical Museum”—up the stairs across the courtyard) has a few rooms of glittering icons, vestments, and other paraphernalia from this monastery and church (€4, €2 off-season, some English labels, Tue-Sun 10:00-14:30, closed Mon).
• If the doorway’s open under the museum, exit here onto Votsi street (otherwise, return to the harborfront, then hang a left up the next street). From this spot (either straight ahead or around the right side of the yellow butcher’s shop) stairs head to the upper reaches of town, and eventually lead over the headland and down to the village and little harbor of Kaminia. For now though, keep to the left, walking toward the orange-tree-filled square.
Tidy Votsi Square has lots of cats. Hydriots love their cats, perhaps because they share a similar temperament: tender, relaxed, but secretly vigilant and fiercely independent. At the bottom of the square (on the left) is Flora’s Pastry Shop, where we’ll finish our stroll.
For now, keep walking about 100 feet above the square until the lane hits the old-time Rafalias Pharmacy. The pharmacy is an institution in town, and Vangelis Rafalias has kept it just as his grandfather did. He welcomes the browsing public, so take a look. Just inside the window, on the far right wall, is a photo of Jackie Onassis visiting Hydra.
With your back to the pharmacy, one lane leads to the left, heading uphill to the site of the original town, which was positioned inland to be safely away from marauding pirates. We’ll head in the other direction, right, and slightly downhill, rounding the building on the left to the little Square of the Five Prime Ministers. The monument, with five medallions flanked by cannons, celebrates the five Hydriots who were chosen for Greece’s highest office in the nearly two centuries since independence. It’s an impressive civic contribution from a little island town, perhaps due to Hydra’s seafaring wealth and its proximity to the Greek capitals (Nafplio, then Athens). From here, narrow, stepped, cobblestone lanes invite exploration of Hydra’s quiet side.
But for now, continue left and downhill, back to Votsi Square. The recommended Flora’s Pastry Shop (signed ZAXAPOΠΛAΣTEIO) is at the bottom of the square, on the right (see “Eating in Hydra,” later). Treat yourself to a homemade ice cream or baklava. Or, for something more traditional, try the local favorite—galaktoboureko (gha-lahk-toh-boo-re-KOH), which is cinnamon-sprinkled egg custard baked between layers of phyllo.
This fine little museum, in an old mansion right along the port, shows off a small, strangely fascinating collection of Hydra’s history and has good English descriptions throughout.
Cost and Hours: €5, includes temporary art exhibits; daily 9:00-16:00, also 19:30-21:30 in June-Sept; along the eastern side of the harbor near the ferry dock, tel. 22980-52355, www.iamy.gr.
Visiting the Museum: The core of the exhibit is upstairs. At the top of the stairs, look straight ahead for a tattered, yellowed old map by Rigas Feraios from 1797. Depicting a hypothetical and generously defined “Hellenic Republic,” it claims virtually the entire Balkan Peninsula (from the Aegean to the Danube) for Greece. The map features historical and cultural tidbits of the time (such as drawings of coins from various eras), making it a treasure trove for historians. Drawn at a time when the Greeks had been oppressed by the Ottomans for centuries, the map—with 1,200 copies printed and distributed—helped to rally support for what would become a successful revolution starting in 1821.
In the biggest room (immediately behind the old map), you’ll see a Greek urn in the center containing the actual, embalmed heart of local hero Andreas Miaoulis. On the walls are portraits of V.I.H.s (very important Hydriots). Rounding out the collection on this floor is a room filled with weapons and 18th- and 19th-century Hydriot attire.
Because of Hydra’s merchant-marine prosperity, the town has many fine aristocratic mansions...but only this one is open to the public. Lazaros Kountouriotis (koon-doo-ree-OH-tees, 1769-1852) was a wealthy Hydriot shipping magnate who helped fund the Greek War of Independence. He donated 120 of his commercial ships to be turned into warships, representing three-quarters of the Greek navy. Today Kountouriotis is revered as a local and national hero, and his mansion offers visitors a glimpse into the lifestyles of the 18th-century Greek rich and famous.
Cost and Hours: €4; daily 10:00-16:00, off-season until 14:00, Nov-March by appointment only; on the hillside above town, signposted off the stepped Lignou street—turn right after Veranda Restaurant, tel. 22980-52421, www.nhmuseum.gr/en/exhibitions/ydra.
Visiting the Mansion: The main building of Kountouriotis’ former estate is a fine example of aristocratic Hydriot architecture of the late 18th century, combining elements of Northern Greek, Saronic Gulf Island, and Italian architecture. The house has changed little since its heyday.
You’ll enter on the second floor, with several period-decorated rooms. These reception rooms have beautiful wood-paneled ceilings, and are furnished with all the finery of the period. Included is the statesman’s favorite armchair, where you can imagine him spending many hours pondering the shape of the emerging Greek nation. Then you’ll head outside and upstairs to see a collection of traditional costumes and jewelry from throughout Greece, labeled in English. The lower floor displays the art of the local Byzantinos family: father Pericles (hazy Post-Impressionistic landscapes and portraits) and son Constantinos (dark sketches and boldly colorful modern paintings).
Although Hydra’s beaches are nothing to get excited about, there’s no shortage of places to swim. There are a few basic swimming spots in Hydra town—the rest are reachable by foot, shuttle boat, or water taxi. Three decent beaches within a pleasant, easy walk of Hydra are Mandraki Bay, Kaminia Castello, and Vlychos. Distant beaches on the southwestern tip of the island (Bisti and Ag. Nikolaos) really get you away from it all, but are best reached by boat.
The main spot to swim in town is Spilia (“Cave”), at the western entrance to Hydra harbor. There you’ll find steps that lead down to a series of small concrete platforms with ladders into the sea—but no showers or changing rooms. (Spilia appears to belong to the adjacent café, but anyone is welcome to swim here.)
You’ll find two more rocky, cement “beaches” just outside the town center, on the way to Kaminia. Both are associated with namesake restaurants, and neither has showers or changing rooms. The first, Hydronetta, sits just below the cannons along the ramparts (no shoreline, just a small diving terrace and ladder into the water). The bar’s umbrella-shaded tables are good for between-dip refreshments. Téchne, two minutes down the same path, is the largest swim spot in Hydra town. A zigzagging staircase leads down to a rocky outcrop with two rock platforms, a small pebble cove, and an upmarket $$$$ restaurant featuring neo-Greek fare.
This pebble beach is to the east of Hydra, near the main coastal path (30-minute walk from the eastern end of the harbor, €6 round-trip shuttle boat from Hydra). If it’s sun you’re after, Mandraki is best earlier in the day, as the hills around it bring shade in the late afternoon. The private beach is well maintained, with tidy rows of lounge chairs and umbrellas (€12 for two chairs with an umbrella).
To the west of town is the delightful little harbor of Kaminia and the recommended Kodylenia’s Taverna (15-minute walk). Just beyond that you’ll find another restaurant and bar called Castello above the small Kaminia Castello Beach. While handy, the beach can be overwhelmed by the musical taste of the kids who run the bar, and is often crowded with lots of families. For walking directions, see “Walks,” below.
Located past Kaminia, Vlychos is my favorite. Like a little tropical colony, 20 thatched umbrellas mark a quiet stretch of pebbly beach (€8 for two lounge chairs and an umbrella). You’ll find other amenities, including the $$ Marina Taverna, a pleasant place for a meal (open daily for lunch and dinner, tel. 22980-52496), and showers at the beach of the nearby hotel. In peak tourist season, a shuttle boat zips from Hydra to Vlychos twice an hour until sunset (confirm last boat time, €6 round-trip). The 40-minute walk from Hydra to Vlychos is great (described next).
The walk from Hydra town to the cute cove of Kaminia and the excellent beach at Vlychos (both described above) is one of my favorites. While the walk leads to two beaches, it’s perfectly pleasant whether or not you take a dip.
For the easy approach, simply follow the mostly level coastal path that runs west from Hydra town to the villages of Kaminia and Vlychos. As you curve out of Hydra, you’ll pass the town’s best-preserved windmill, which was reconstructed for the 1957 Sophia Loren film Boy on a Dolphin. Up the steps to the windmill is a statue honoring the film that attracted many celebrities to Hydra.
Follow the water past the harbor where the stone path hugs a hillside, passing above Kaminia Castello Beach. Soon you’re all alone with great sea views. Ten minutes or so later, you round a bluff, descend across an Ottoman-style single-arched bridge, and drop into Vlychos, with its welcoming little beach.
From Vlychos, an inland trail leads back to upper Hydra, passing donkey-strewn terraced pastures and a small cemetery. Leaving Vlychos, go under the Ottoman Bridge, across the footbridge, and straight onto the path (30 minutes to reach the top of Lignou stairs, lit at night).
The Hydra-Kaminia High Road: On this alternate inland route, you’ll feel your way up and over the headland, then descend into Kaminia. Here shabby homes enjoy grand views, tethering off-duty burros seems unnecessary, and island life trudges on, oblivious to tourism. Along the way, look for dry, paved riverbeds, primed for the flash floods that fill village cisterns each winter. (You can also climb all the way up to the remains of Hydra’s humble acropolis, topping the hill due west of the harbor.) From Hydra, start by climbing the Lignou staircase. Near the top, take the turnoff on your right (look for two large telephone poles and signs pointing to Hotel Oceano). About 200 yards ahead you’ll see an orange grocery store on the left, Hotel Oceano on the right, and the acropolis straight ahead and above. Follow the road downhill, then down the staircase, staying to the left. After five minutes you’ll see a large community cistern and dry riverbed that leads down to Kaminia’s harbor.
Beyond walking to a nearby beach, Hydra is popular for its network of ancient paths that link the island’s outlying settlements, churches, and monasteries. Most of the paths are well maintained and clearly marked. Review the handy signpost map of the island at the harbor (opposite the monastery) for an overview and ask your hotel for a trail map. Serious hikers should buy a detailed hiking map (sold locally). If you do venture into the hills, wear sturdy shoes, sunscreen, and a hat, and take your own water and picnic supplies.
Locals, proud of the extravagant yachts that flock to the island, like to tell of movie stars who make regular visits. But the island is so quiet that by midnight, all the high-rollers seem to be back onboard watching movies.
And yet there are plenty of options to keep visitors busy. People enjoy watching a film at the town’s outdoor cinema or nursing a drink along the harborfront—there are plenty of mellow cocktail bars proudly serving “Paradise in a Glass” for €8.
Pirate Bar is run by a hardworking family serving homemade breakfast and lunch until 17:00 and fine drinks until late. It sits on a prime spot on the water, at the little lane just past Lignou. The son, Zeus, runs the night shift and is famous for his inventive cocktails—try his Greektini, made with mastic. This is a mellow, trendy spot to be late at night (tel. 22980-52711).
Amalour Bar, run by Vasilis, is “the place to fall in love” (or just enjoy wonderful music and good drinks). There’s no sea view here—just cool music played at the right volume inside, and tables outside tumbling down a cobbled lane. It’s mellow tunes until midnight, and then harder music (just up Tompazi street from the harbor, mobile 697-746-1357).
Hydronetta Bar, catering to a younger crowd with younger music, offers great sea views from under the “Sofia Loren windmill,” with a bunch of romantic tables nestled within the ramparts and cannons plus a small swimming hole described earlier (tel. 22980-54160). Reach it by walking along the coastline past Spilia Beach and through the Sunset Restaurant. This and the neighboring Spilia cocktail bar are the most touristy of Hydra’s nightlife choices.
Gardenia Cinema is part of a great Greek summer tradition: watching movies in the open air. Hydra’s delightful outdoor theater, lovingly run by the local cinema club, is right in the center of town on Oikonomou street; it shows movies in the original language on summer weekends (runs for 40 nights in the height of summer, nightly at 21:00 and 23:00, tel. 22980-53105).
Hydra has ample high-quality accommodations. But the prices are also high—more expensive than anywhere on the Peloponnese, and rivaling those in Athens. Prices max out in the summer (June-mid-Sept). Outside of these times, most accommodations offer discounts—always ask. Longer stays might also garner you a deal. Some cheaper hotels don’t provide breakfast, in which case you can eat for about €7 at various cafés around town. Communication can be challenging at a few of the cheaper places (as noted). The only hotel with an elevator is the Leto (though no hotel has more than three stories). Because Hydra has a labyrinthine street plan and most people ignore street names, I list no addresses. To find your way, use my “Hydra Town” map (earlier), and follow signs posted around town. Most accommodations in Hydra close for the winter (typically Nov-Feb, sometimes longer).
$$$$ Hotel Leto is the island’s closest thing to a business-class hotel, offering executive service and a professional vibe, 22 well-appointed rooms, and inviting public spaces (small elevator, spa treatments, tel. 22980-53385, www.letohydra.gr, info@letohydra.gr).
$$$$ Cotommatae Hotel lives up to its grand pedigree as a former mansion with elegant public areas, a restful garden, and seven carefully styled, palatial rooms. Of all the restored houses in Hydra, this one feels the most luxurious (suites available, closed Dec-mid-Feb, tel. 29980-53873, www.cotommatae.gr, info@cotommatae.gr).
$$$$ Orloff Hotel is a lovingly maintained historic Hydriot house decorated in the traditional style. All eight rooms in this former Russian count’s home have an Old-World-meets-21st-century charm (closed Nov-March, tel. 22980-52564, www.orloff.gr, hotel@orloff.gr).
$$$ Phaedra Hotel rents seven spacious and tasteful rooms in what was once a carpet factory. Helpful owner Hilda takes pride in her hotel, and it shows (family studio, 2-bed 2-bath suite with private veranda, great breakfast, open year-round, tel. 22980-53330, mobile 697-221-3111, www.phaedrahotel.com, info@phaedrahotel.com).
$$$ Hotel Miranda, in a sea captain’s house from the early 19th century, is filled with an elegant nautical charm that feels almost New England-y—it’s the most atmospheric of my listings. Its 10 stylish rooms are bright with whitewashed stone, and surround a classy terrace (tel. 22980-52230, www.mirandahotel.gr, mirandahydra@hol.gr).
$$$ Hotel Sophia is a plush little boutique hotel right above the harbor restaurant strip. It’s been family-run since 1934; today English-speaking sisters Angelika and Vasiliki are at the helm. The six thoughtfully appointed rooms, while a little tight, are stony-chic, with high ceilings, heavy exposed beams, tiny-but-posh bathrooms, and good windows that manage to block out most of the harbor noise. Three rooms come with private balconies while the others have access to a shared veranda, giving you a royal box seat overlooking all the harbor action (RS%, closed Nov-March, tel. 22980-52313, www.hotelsophia.gr, hydra@hotelsophia.gr). Ask to see the family museum filled with items from the original hotel.
$$$ Mistral Hotel is a well-run place offering 17 rooms in a comfortable, modern-equipped, ivy-covered stone building with a central lounge and a breezy courtyard. It’s a fine value at the very quiet top part of town (Wi-Fi in lobby and courtyard, tel. 22980-52509, www.hotelmistral.gr, info@hotelmistral.gr, Theo and Jenny serve a particularly good breakfast).
$$ Greco Hotel rents 16 rooms set above one of the shadiest, lushest gardens in town. It’s where lovely owner Maria Keramidas serves a homemade buffet breakfast...and where you’ll be tempted to just relax and do nothing all afternoon (closed Nov-March, tel. 22980-53200, www.grecohotel.gr, grecohotelhydra@gmail.com; Maria speaks little English, but son Alkis is around to help).
$$ Ippokampos Hotel has 16 pleasant rooms around a cocktail-bar courtyard. The four top-floor rooms open right onto a seaview patio. The suite is a few notches up in quality and amenities, with its own private veranda (bar closes at 23:00, closed Nov-March, tel. 22980-53453, www.ippokampos.com, ippo@ippokampos.com, Sotiris and Voula).
$$ Alkionides Pension offers 10 smartly renovated rooms around a beautiful and relaxing courtyard, and is buried in Hydra’s back lanes (apartment, breakfast extra, tel. 22980-54055, mobile 697-741-0460, www.alkionidespension.com, info@alkionidespension.com, Kofitsas family).
$$ Nereids Guest House is a bit farther from the harbor than my other listings, but the nine stony rooms offer good atmosphere and space for the price (no breakfast, two minutes past Greco Hotel, tel. 22980-52875, www.nereids-hydra.com, nereids@otenet.gr).
$$ Pension Erofili is a reliable budget standby in the heart of town, renting 12 basic but tasteful rooms just off (or over) a relaxing little courtyard (RS%, apartment, homemade breakfast extra, tel. 22980-54049, mobile 697-768-8487, www.pensionerofili.gr, info@pensionerofili.gr, George and Irene).
$$ Pension Achilleas rents 13 decent rooms in an old mansion with a relaxing courtyard terrace and a gorgeous seaview roof patio. Request one of the upstairs rooms (they’re brighter), and try to land one with a balcony (apartment, cash only, breakfast extra, tel. 22980-52050, www.achilleaspension.gr, kofitsas@otenet.gr, Dina or Demitris speak only a little English).
$$ Spalieri’s Dhomatia has five rooms in a cheery home with a welcoming garden courtyard. The units, though simple, are spacious. Staying with the Spalieri family provides a homier experience than at most other places in town (breakfast extra, on the corner next to Pension Achilleas, tel. 22980-52894, mobile 694-414-1977, spalsteff@ath.forthnet.gr, minimal English).
There are dozens of places to eat, offering everything from humble gyros to slick modern-Mediterranean cuisine. Harbor views come with higher prices; places farther inland typically offer better value.
(See “Hydra Town” map, here.)
$$$$ Psaropoula Restaurant, at the southwest corner of the harbor, fills a top-floor terrace in a prime spot overlooking all of the action. They specialize in seafood but also have pasta and meat dishes. Ask to see what’s cooking in the kitchen, or peek inside their drawers full of fresh fish to see what looks good for dinner (daily 12:00-23:00, reservations smart in summer—especially for view tables, tel. 22980-52573, www.psaropoula.org).
$$$ Veranda Restaurant, perched on a terrace with fine views over the town and harbor, wins the best ambience award. It’s great on a summer evening; enjoy a cold drink before selecting from a menu that offers pasta served a dozen different ways and a creative assortment of salads (better-than-average wine list, daily 18:00-late, halfway up the steep steps on Sahini lane or along the Lignou steps, reservations smart in summer, tel. 22980-52259, Andreas).
$$$ I Orea Hydra (Η Ωραία Ύδρα) is a serious seafood restaurant highly regarded by locals for their modern approach to Greek cuisine (daily 11:30-16:00 & 18:00-23:00, closed Nov-March, try to reserve one of the balcony tables for an even more romantic experience, tel. 22980-52556).
$$ Taverna Gitoniko is a tricky-to-find taverna with a delightful rooftop garden, but it’s worth seeking out for a memorable meal. The kitchen works magic with the produce they snap up fresh from the market. Order a selection of creative first courses and check their daily specials (daily for lunch and dinner, closed Nov-Feb, on Spilios Haramis street, tel. 22980-53615).
$$$ Nero Gatto is a modern Italian eatery, with tables inside or out on lively Tompazi street. Here you’ll find good food, a friendly owner, and just the right mix of trendy and casual (open daily 14:00-late, closed mid-Oct-mid-April, a minute up from the harbor on Tompazi, tel. 22980-54030).
$$$ At Ostria Restaurant, handwritten menus in spiral-bound notebooks look more like grocery lists than dinner options, making it feel as though you’re eating in a local’s dining room. In this family-run taverna known for authentic food at reasonable prices, no-nonsense Tassoula runs the show while laid-back Stathis does the cooking—if you’re lucky he’ll be preparing freshly caught calamari, his specialty (daily 11:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, tel. 22980-54077).
$$-$$$ Tavernas on Miaouli Street: This street leading up from the port (to the left of the monastery bell tower) is crammed with appealing little tavernas that jostle for your attention with outdoor seating and good food.
$ Souvlaki: For a quick, cheap meal, souvlaki is your best bet. For a civilized, sit-down souvlaki experience, drop by The Onion Souvlaki (Και Κρεμμύδι), a cute eatery filling a charming corner up Tompazi street, across from the Amalour Bar.
Cafés on the Harbor: Enjoy the scene as you nurse a drink here—drivers rolling their pushcarts, donkeys sneezing, taxi-boat drivers haggling, big boats coming and going. For a meal, try $$$ Café Isalos (“Waterline”), with a fun menu of light bites, including salads, sandwiches, pastas, and pizzas. In the early evening, watch for yachts trying to dock; some are driven by pros and others aren’t, providing a comedic scene of naval inexperience.
Dessert: Flora’s Pastry Shop is a hardworking little bakery cranking out the best pastries and homemade ice cream on the island. Flora has delightful tables that overlook Votsi Square, just behind the monastery. She sells all the traditional local sweets, including honey treats such as baklava. Many of her ingredients come from her farm on the nearby island of Dokos (daily 7:00-24:00).
(See “Hydra Town” map, here.)
A great way to cap your Hydra day is to follow the coastal path to the rustic and picturesque village of Kaminia, which hides behind the headland from Hydra. Kaminia’s pocket-sized harbor shelters the community’s fishing boats. Here, with a glass of ouzo and some munchies, as the sun slowly sinks into the sea and boats become silhouettes, you can drink to the beauties of a Greek isle escape. Consider combining dinner with a late-afternoon stroll along the seafront (see “Walks—Hydra to Kaminia and Vlychos,” earlier).
Note that there are no direct ferry routes between Hydra and Mykonos or Santorini—to reach either from Hydra you’ll first have to backtrack to Piraeus before continuing to your final destination.
Hydra is easily reached from Athens’s port at Piraeus via the Hellenic Seaways ferry, either the “Flying Dolphin” hydrofoil or the slightly larger “Flying Cat” catamaran (6-8/day June-Sept, 4/day Oct-May, 1.5-2 hours). If traveling to Hydra from Athens, then on to the Peloponnese, note that it’s not necessary to return to Athens to pick up a car. You can go by ferry from Athens to Hydra, then continue by ferry from Hydra to Ermioni on the coast of the Peloponnese, where you can pick up a rental car (described later).
When to Buy Tickets: Because these boats are virtually the only game in town, it’s wise to book in advance (at least a week ahead in summer). They can sell out during summer weekends, when boats are packed with Athenians headed to or from their Hydra getaway. Outside of summer, tickets should be available up to a day or two in advance.
Where to Buy Tickets: If you book ahead on the Hellenic Seaways website (www.hellenicseaways.gr), there are a few ways to get your actual ticket. You can either check in online (anytime between 30 minutes and 48 hours before departure) and have an eticket sent to you. Or you can pick up a paper ticket at a travel agency, a Hellenic Seaways ticket office, or at a self-service machine at Piraeus.
It’s also possible to buy a ticket in person soon after you arrive in Greece (tickets sold for the same price at any travel agency). Check the cancellation policy before buying your ticket.
In Hydra you can buy tickets at the Hellenic Seaways office, just down an alley near the Alpha Bank (open long hours daily in summer, tel. 22980-54007 or 22980-53812).
Boat Cancellations: Be aware that boats can be delayed, or even cancelled, if the weather’s bad enough (mostly a concern in off-season). For more advice on navigating the Greek ferry system, see here of the Practicalities chapter.
You have several options for connecting Hydra and the Peloponnese via several spots on the coast of the peninsula: Metochi, Ermioni, or Tolo. Drivers can leave their cars in long-term parking at either Metochi (frequent crossings to Hydra on small passenger boats, just show up) or Ermioni (larger, less-frequent ferries, can be booked in advance). You can also connect Nafplio and Ermioni by public transportation (with some effort) or pick up a rental car in Ermioni to begin a tour of the Peloponnese. Another option is to day-trip from Tolo (near Nafplio) to Hydra.
Metochi (drivers only): Metochi is the spot on the mainland closest to Hydra (under 2 hours from Nafplio, 3 hours from Athens). It’s at the end of a dirt road with nothing there except a couple of ticket stands and a small boat pier. You can park on the road or in the small dirt lot for free, or use the pay lot (€5/day). Both the Freedom Boat (mobile 694-424-2141, www.hydralines.gr) and Metoxi Express (tel. 22980-53000, www.hydracelebrity.gr) sail to Hydra quickly and frequently (€5-6.50, hop on the one that’s leaving next, about hourly in summer, less frequent in spring and fall, 20-30 minutes, no boats Jan-March). Another option is a water taxi (these may be waiting in Metochi, otherwise call Hydra’s sea taxi service at tel. 22980-53690, about €45 but confirm upfront).
Ermioni (drivers and those without cars): Ermioni (a.k.a. Hermioni) is an actual town with some amenities, and a little closer to Nafplio (1.5 hours). It’s a 25-minute boat ride between Ermioni and Hydra on a Hellenic Seaways ferry (€8, 3-4/day in summer, fewer off-season, www.hellenicseaways.gr).
If you’re visiting Hydra early in your trip and then continuing to the Peloponnese, a good plan is to ride the ferry from Athens to Hydra, then take the ferry from Hydra to Ermioni, where you can rent a car (try Pop’s Car, www.popscar.gr, a five-minute walk from the ferry dock, ask about fee for dropping the car in Athens or at the airport; you can also ask your Hydra hotelier to help with car rental).
Without a car, you can connect Ermioni and Nafplio by taxi and bus, though this is more complicated than it should be (see “Nafplio Connections” on here).
Tolo, near Nafplio (day trippers only): Pegasus Tours operates an excursion boat from the port at Tolo, near Nafplio, but it runs only a few times a week, can be cancelled on short notice (if not enough passengers—mainly off-season), and requires an early-morning (though short) bus ride. Stopping in both Spetses and Hydra, it’s a good option only for travelers without a car who can’t devote an overnight to Hydra (3 boats/week July-mid-Sept, 2/week May-June and mid-Sept-Oct, some sailings March-April, €34, tel. 27520-59430, www.pegasus-cruises.gr, easiest to book through Stavropoulos Tours in central Nafplio—see here).