NOONDAY BRUNCH

FOR 16

PASSION FRUIT MIMOSAS

CHEESE STRAWS

SOUR CREAM AND TWO-CAVIAR DIP WITH ENDIVE SPEARS AND OTHER CRUDITÉS

RICH LIVER MOUSSE WITH TOASTED HAZELNUTS

BAKED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS AND BROWNED ONIONS

AVOCADO, STRAWBERRY, AND ORANGE SALAD

ASSORTED SMOKED FISH: SALMON, TROUT, AND STURGEON

OR

SLICED COLD CUTS, SUCH AS HAM, TURKEY, AND PASTRAMI

ASSORTED BREADS: BAGELS, CROISSANTS, SLICED WHOLE-GRAIN, AND SOURDOUGH

MARBLED SOUR CREAM COFFEE CAKE

Though it surprises me, the meal for which most people seek my advice and recipes for is brunch. Daytime entertaining is steadily growing in popularity. For parents and busy professionals, late mornings and afternoons are times when they have extra energy. The hour implies a more relaxed, casual form of entertaining, usually with less alcohol—and brunch ends early.

Planning a menu for brunch is fun, because the meal allows such a wide range of food. It can be a breakfast-brunch, with a major egg dish along with accompaniments; a lunch-brunch, with heavier afternoon food and perhaps more alcohol; or an all-day open house, with a substantial buffet as well as passed hors d’oeuvre. Since you will be serving early in the day, food that can be prepared in advance is all the more important.

Here’s an excellent “noonish” menu. You never know who has had breakfast beforehand and who is holding out for brunch, so there is plenty of food at the outset, which allows time for everyone to relax and socialize before sitting down. Greet guests with Passion Fruit Mimosas or Bloody Marys. Pass the Cheese Straws. Have the caviar dip set out, surrounded by spears of Belgian endive and with a basket of assorted crudités next to it. Accompany the liver mousse with toast rounds or crackers. I first encountered the pairing of avocados and strawberries many years ago aboard a 65-foot Swan sailboat moored off Newport, Rhode Island, during the America’s Cup race. The pastel combination was served as a composed salad at dinner, and it took us all by surprise. It was delicious and has lost none of its appeal. For a crowd, I’ve combined the avocados and strawberries here with oranges as well for a colorful and delightful starter.

Baked Eggs with Mushrooms and Browned Onions, a classic French recipe, serves extremely well for early entertaining, because the entire dish can be assembled the night before and baked at the last minute. All the other foods offered are purchased: your choice of smoked fish or cold cuts and a gorgeous basket of breads. To make service easy, slice the bagels beforehand. An easy dessert, the moist Marbled Sour Cream Coffee Cake serves 16 easily and keeps extremely well. If you prefer not to freeze it, you can still bake it 5 days in advance and store it in a cool place.

DO-AHEAD PLANNING

UP TO 2 MONTHS IN ADVANCE: Bake and freeze the Cheese Straws and the Marbled Sour Cream Coffee Cake.

UP TO 3 DAYS IN ADVANCE: Make the liver mousse. Cook the eggs, shell them immediately, and store them in a bowl of cold water to cover in the refrigerator.

THE DAY BEFORE THE BRUNCH: Make the caviar dip. Prepare the endive and other crudités. Assemble the Baked Eggs with Mushrooms and Browned Onions.

UP TO 4 HOURS BEFORE SERVING: Prepare the oranges and strawberries for the salad.

ABOUT 1 HOUR BEFORE SERVING: Arrange the dip and crudités. Pour the orange juice and passion fruit nectar into champagne flutes. Complete the Avocado, Strawberry, and Orange Salad.

ABOUT 30 MINUTES BEFORE YOU PLAN TO SERVE: Bake the egg gratin.