FOR 10 TO 12
TUNA TARTARE WITH AVOCADO AND RUBY GRAPEFRUIT VINAIGRETTE
FULL-BODIED WHITE WINE, SUCH AS CALIFORNIA CHARDONNAY OR FRENCH WHITE BURGUNDY
POTATO GRATIN WITH GARLIC AND THYME
ELEGANT, HERBACEOUS RED WINE, SUCH AS BORDEAUX OR CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
GREEN SALAD
ASSORTED CHEESES, SUCH AS EPOISSES OR CAMEMBERT, ROQUEFORT OR MAYTAG BLUE, AND CANTAL OR AGED SONOMA JACK
FRENCH WALNUT OR WHOLE-GRAIN BREAD
RED WINE, PREFERABLY AN OLDER BORDEAUX, A BIG CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON, OR A FINE BURGUNDY
ESPRESSO
People often make a fuss about pairing food and wine. That’s because on those rare occasions when the match is perfect, the effect is stunning—the whole becomes much more than the sum of its parts. When the wine is the star, keep the food simple. Avoid strong flavors and piquant spices.
I begin this meal with tuna tartare, silky with avocado, which pairs perfectly with an equally lush Chardonnay or French white Burgundy. Because the acid in the dressing is grapefruit juice rather than vinegar, the dish can take a fine wine, and it deserves to be applauded. This is a simple starter that by its presentation and taste elevates a good cook to a chef in the eye of the diners. By packing diced avocado and pink fresh tuna into a small ramekin and then unmolding it, the resulting appetizer, with its spring green cover, is beautiful. A drizzle of extra dressing and small chunks of pink grapefruit for garnish truly make this a stunning beginning to a lovely meal.
Beef is the classic match for a good Bordeaux (or its California counterpart, Cabernet Sauvignon), so I serve a simple roast fillet here. As accompaniments, I’ve chosen a pretty green Puree of Peas and Watercress and a creamy potato gratin, with just a hint of mellow garlic and thyme. The pepperiness of the watercress and the herbal overtones of the thyme will match the character of the wine.
After the main course is the point in the meal when the French serve salad, to refresh the palate and give new vigor to the appetite. I recommend it highly. Use a simple assortment of greens—perhaps Bibb and red oak leaf lettuces with a few leaves of arugula— and a dressing either based on lemon or with proportions of oil and vinegar no less than 4 to 1.
The cheese course is a French touch that is highly complementary to wine and has become much more popular in America in recent years. Many top restaurants now wheel cheese carts through the dining room after dinner, and cheese plates can be had as an alternative to a sweet or as an extra course. Offer a variety of artisanal cheeses; and do be sure all are at room temperature when you serve them. Even at a formal dinner, I sometimes pass the cheese plate while people are eating their salads, so that the two courses are served on one plate.
And the Profiteroles, all ready to go with just a drizzle of chocolate sauce, provide the perfect ending to this sumptuous meal. Classic and simple, with a contrast of crisp pastry and cold, creamy ice cream and warm chocolate sauce, this dessert is one of my all-time favorites, both at home and in restaurants.
I confess this menu does look intimidating, but it was carefully designed with the home cook in mind. Notice that both the first course and the dessert are cold and are prepared in advance. Except for reheating the vegetables, the only last-minute work is roasting the fillet of beef.
UP TO 2 MONTHS IN ADVANCE: Bake the pastry puffs for the Profiteroles. Freeze in a covered container.
UP TO A DAY IN ADVANCE: Prepare the Puree of Peas and Watercress. Prepare the Potato Gratin with Garlic and Thyme, baking it 10 to 15 minutes less than the recipe calls for; let cool, then cover and refrigerate. Rinse and dry the salad greens.
UP TO 4 HOURS BEFORE SERVING: Make the citrus vinaigrette for the Tuna Tartare. Prepare the Tuna Tartare through Step 4; cover and refrigerate. Marinate the fillet. Remove the cheeses from the refrigerator. Make the chocolate sauce for the Profiteroles.
ABOUT 20 MINUTES BEFORE YOU PLAN TO SERVE: Unmold and garnish the tuna. Bake the potatoes until tender and heated through. Roast the fillet. Finish off the puree as you reheat it. Dress and toss the salad.
JUST BEFORE SERVING DESSERT: Fill the Profiteroles using a small ice cream scoop and drizzle with sauce.