Sugar almonds and buffalo milk

The sweetness of diversity

A family weekend trip to Karachi’s Hyderabad Colony was an intoxicating experience. The air would be spiced with red onion samosa and biryani, sweet shops brimmed with saffron bread pudding and delicately made rose water marzipan. I looked forward to this trip almost more than any other, as the cuisine is so different from the one cooked at my home, yet it was such a part of my culinary landscape.

I didn’t notice any multi-ethnic culinary influences in my cooking until I moved away from home. As I slowly started to crave Hyderabadi sweets, Parsi custards and Kashmiri puddings, I realised that this was because the flavours of the diverse communities that make up Karachi were deeply imbedded in my memories of enjoying meals with friends. Their food culture was as much a part of my childhood as it was theirs.

My circle of friends was as diverse as my home city and the food we shared would reflect our backgrounds. Parsi nankhatai (spiced semolina shortbread), and Hyderabadi khubani ka meetha (stewed apricots with cream and custard) were shared while Bohri friends would surprisingly begin the meal with a dessert of malida (wheat and jaggery dessert). For my part, my father’s family were muhajirs (Muslim Indian migrants) that make up a huge part of Karachi’s diversity, and my desserts to this day are heavily influenced by the Mughal style of sweetmeats and decadent halvas.

The celebration of food in Pakistan unifies the many cultures that exist in the country, and this is most evident in our dessert culture. Many of the recipes in this chapter have been inspired by the flavours I grew up with in Karachi.

◁ Badam ki jali

Cardamom and rose water marzipan lace

This Hyderabadi sweetmeat translates as ‘almond lace’ and the name conjures up visions of delicate white fairytale lace. It’s a festive sweet for celebrations and gifts. The art is in its making as the traditional methods are laborious and badam ki jali is always made in abundance. The mixture resembles marzipan, but it dries out quickly so you must work fast.

Preparation 30–40 minutes + overnight soaking | Cooking 10–15 minutes Makes 8–10

1kg/21/4 lb/73/4 cups almonds with skin on

2 tsp rose water

1kg/21/4 lb/51/2 cups caster (superfine) sugar

4–6 cardamom pods, seeds removed and ground

butter, for greasing

500g/1 lb 2 oz/31/2 cups icing (confectioners’) sugar, for rolling

To decorate

edible silver or gold leaf

15g/1/2 oz/1/8 cup ground pistachios

Soak the almonds in a bowl of water overnight. The next day, the skins should come off effortlessly.

Place the almonds in a food processor with the rose water and grind until they are very fine and paste-like, then place in a heavy-based saucepan and add the caster sugar and ground cardamom. Cook over a very low heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens and leaves the sides of the pan. Transfer the mixture to a greased glass dish, cover with clingfilm and allow to cool to the touch.

Now form the mixture into 2 balls. Roll each ball out as thinly as possible, dusting both the board and the rolling pin liberally with icing sugar. Using a 5–7.5cm/2–3-inch cookie cutter (flower shape is best) cut out 16–20 shapes. Divide the shapes into two equal groups. On one of the groups, cover the surface of the biscuits with silver or gold leaf. Then using a tiny cookie cutter (such as hearts), make holes in the middle of each shape in the second group. Place these on top of the silver or gold leaf covered ones.

Dust with ground pistachios and serve or store in an airtight container for 2–4 days.

◁ Gajrela

Carrot rice pudding

This is a festive pudding that to me unifies the flavours of Karachi. The origins of this dessert are from the Punjab, but there are many different recipes for it in different communities. My favourite by far is this delicious carrot and rice version, which is made in the winter when carrots in Pakistan are deep red, crunchy and intensely sweet. It is one my Nani (maternal grandmother) always made.

Preparation 35 minutes + overnight soaking | Cooking 1 hour | Serves 6–8

100g/31/2 oz/1/2 cup basmati rice

1 litre/13/4 pints/4 cups whole milk

4 cardamom pods, seeds removed and crushed

6 carrots, peeled and grated

2 tbsp ghee or unsalted butter

250g/9 oz/scant 11/2 cups caster (superfine) sugar

150ml/5 fl oz/2/3 cup thick double (heavy) cream, to serve

To decorate

2 tbsp chopped almonds, cashews or pistachios

2–3 tbsp desiccated (dry unsweetened) coconut

1 tbsp raisins

Soak the rice in a bowl of water overnight. The next day, drain the rice and set aside.

Bring the milk to the boil in a heavy-based saucepan, then turn the heat down to medium–low and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the milk begins to thicken (around 25 minutes), stirring every 1–2 minutes with a wooden spoon to stop the milk sticking to the base of the pan. Add the crushed cardamom seeds and keep stirring. Do not allow the milk to boil. Add the rice and simmer over a low heat for about 15–20 minutes, until the rice is soft and cooked.

Meanwhile, dry-roast the grated carrots in a separate pan over a low heat for 2–3 minutes, or until they begin to wilt, then add the ghee or butter and stir-fry vigorously. When the carrots turn dark (about 3–5 minutes), add the sugar and stir until it is combined (about 2–3 minutes).

Add the carrots to the rice and milk mixture and keep stirring. Turn the heat to its lowest setting and, using a hand-held stick blender, blend the mixture briefly until the carrots and rice are slightly broken down. Increase the heat to high and cook, stirring vigorously for 2–3 minutes.

You can serve this hot or cold. If serving hot, pour into bowls and decorate. If serving cold, allow it to cool in a serving dish and then decorate. Either way, serve with thick cream on the side.

◁ Kishmish paneer

Fresh curd cheese with raisins and sultanas

My mother had an Afghani friend who would always come to our house for a cup of afternoon tea. I never met her family, and the only thing I remember is that she always brought her homemade chewy cheese. Its texture was nothing like any other local cheese – it was firm and reminded me of a sponge, without any saltiness or sweetness, just a pure milkiness. I was told it was an Afghani teatime tradition to serve this with dark black raisins and seasonal fruit.

Preparation 15 minutes + 20 minutes draining + 2 hours chilling Cooking 20–25 minutes | Serves 4–6

1 litre/13/4 pints/4 cups whole milk

4 tbsp white wine vinegar or lemon juice

1/2 tsp salt

250g/9 oz/13/4 cups black or brown raisins

100g/31/2 oz/3/4 cup sultanas (golden raisins)

any fresh fruit, if desired

Pour the milk into a non-stick heavy-based pan and, using a whisk, keep stirring the milk while bringing it to the boil. Slowly, add the vinegar or lemon juice and whisk in a circular motion to allow the curds to separate from the whey.

Add the salt and turn off the heat. Whisk in a circular motion for about 5 minutes, or until the curds separate as much as possible from the whey. Line a colander with a muslin cloth and place the colander over the sink. Pour the whey and curds into the muslin, then gather up the corners of the cloth and hold them above the tap. Run cold water through the cloth to wash the vinegar flavour off. Then form the curd into a ball within the cloth. Squeeze the excess liquid through the cloth until the cheese is soft.

Tie the cloth so that it hangs on the tap and allow to drain over the sink completely for about 20 minutes or so. Then leaving the cheese in the cloth, refrigerate for 2 hours until solid.

Serve slices of the cheese with raisins and fresh fruit, if you like. Store the cheese in the fridge for about 2–3 days.

◁ Kashmiri phirin

Ground rice pudding with saffron

Kashmiri food is ceremonial, plentiful and full of flavour. I was used to eating a thick rice pudding called kheer or ground rice firni, but this is a slower-cooked Kashmiri version where whole grains of rice are soaked overnight and then ground. It is traditionally served in unglazed terracotta dishes and usually as a dessert at the end of a wedding meal.

Preparation 20 minutes + overnight soaking + 2–3 hours chilling Cooking 20 minutes | Serves 4–6

100g/31/2 oz/1/2 cup basmati rice

a pinch of saffron threads

1 tbsp hot milk

500ml/17 fl oz/2 cups whole milk

3–4 cardamom pods, seeds removed and ground

a pinch of salt

50g/13/4 oz/53/4 tbsp icing (confectioners’) sugar

To decorate

1 tsp finely ground pistachios

1 tbsp blanched almonds, dry-roasted and roughly chopped

1 tbsp pomegranate seeds

edible silver or gold leaf (optional)

Soak the rice in a bowl of water overnight. The next day, soak the saffron in the hot milk for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, drain the soaked rice and and grind it finely in a food processor. Don’t add any water.

Pour the milk into a heavy-based pan and bring to the boil. Add the ground rice, saffron and ground cardamom and cook, stirring constantly until the milk thickens. Add the salt and icing sugar, then turn off the heat and stir.

Pour the rice pudding into serving bowls and chill in the fridge for 2–3 hours. When ready to serve, decorate with ground pistachios, chopped almonds, pomegranate seeds, silver or gold leaf and rose petals, if you like.

◁ Bejewelled Parsi wedding custard

Custards are not really a typical Pakistani dessert, but this Zoroastrian/Parsi celebratory one is called ‘lagan nu custard’ and is flavoured with nutmeg and cardamom and topped with dried fruit, nuts and rose petals. It’s eaten mostly at wedding parties, but sometimes at the end of a Sunday meal.

Preparation 15 minutes + 2–4 hours chilling Cooking 1 hour 15 minutes | Serves 8–10

11/2 litres/21/2 pints/61/3 cups whole milk

200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup condensed milk

200g/7 oz/generous 1 cup caster (superfine) sugar

ghee or butter, for greasing

4 small eggs

1 tsp vanilla extract

1/4 tsp ground nutmeg

3–4 cardamom pods, seeds removed and ground

To decorate

a handful each of whole cashews, blanched almonds, finely chopped pistachios, raisins, dried apricots and dried rose petals

Bring the milk to the boil in a non-stick heavy-based saucepan. As soon as it is boiling turn the heat down to low and add the condensed milk and sugar. Stir for 15 minutes until the sugar has dissolved and the milk is thick and sticky. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Preheat the oven to 110°C/220°F/gas mark 1/4 and grease a 20 x 15cm/8 x 6-inch baking dish. Using a balloon whisk, beat the eggs, vanilla, nutmeg and ground cardamom in a steel bowl until frothy.

The milk should be tepid before you attempt to stir in the eggs. Slowly stir the eggs in and once it is all combined, pour into the prepared baking dish and bake in the oven for about 1 hour, or until the custard is set and the top is brown.

Allow to cool a little, then chill in the fridge for about 2–4 hours. Decorate with nuts, raisins, and rose petals to serve.

◁ Rabri kulfi sticks

with honey, cardamom and bay leaf

As a child, I remember when the school bell rang we would all run out to follow the kulfi-walla’s dilapidated wooden cart. On it, there were beaten steel tubs filled with silver moulds which were tapped to reveal the cold milky pops wrapped in white parchment paper and shrouded in cold mist. Breathing in the sweet smell of kulfi (a fresh full-cream cheese-based ice cream), you could taste it before you peeled off the wrapping. These kulfi ice creams are usually made with fresh rabri (milk solids), but you can use shop bought ricotta instead.

Preparation 15 minutes + overnight freezing | Cooking 5–6 minutes Serves 6–8

400g/14-oz can condensed milk

1 litre/13/4 pints/4 cups whole milk

4 tbsp ricotta cheese

5 tbsp dried whole milk powder

1 tbsp cornflour (cornstarch)

5–6 cardamom pods, seeds removed

1 bay leaf

1 tbsp honey

To decorate

2 tbsp ground pistachios

1 tbsp white and black poppy seeds

Blend the condensed milk, milk, cheese, milk powder, cornflour and cardamom seeds together in a food processor until combined, then pour the mixture into a saucepan and heat over a low heat. Add the bay leaf and honey and heat through until warm. Once the mixture is warm take off the heat. If necessary, adjust the sweetness by adding more honey. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature.

Pour the cooled mixture into kulfi moulds, seal and place in the freezer overnight. I also use cones made from greaseproof paper, stand them upright in a glass and pour the mixture to the top. I semi-freeze these before sticking in the lolly sticks.

When ready to serve, if using moulds, place them under warm water to ease the kulfi out of the mould. If using the greaseproof paper moulds, just peel the paper gently away to reveal your kulfi on a stick, then dip them into the ground pistachios and poppy seeds to decorate.

◁ Dar ni puri

Sweet bread filled with channa daal and candied peel

I used to have a wonderful Parsi piano teacher who was as passionate about playing Rachmaninoff as she was about her afternoon cup of chai. Many times on weekend lessons I would walk into her house craving these sweet split chickpeas, candied peel and mace-flavoured thick round breads which she would dip into her tea with her elegant long fingers. They’re traditionally made with toor daal (split pigeon peas), but I like to use chaana daal in my recipe.

Preparation 30–40 minutes + overnight soaking + 2 hours resting Cooking 25 minutes | Serves 6–8

For the filling

200g/7 oz/1 cup channa daal

3 tbsp ghee

150–200g/51/2–7 oz/1 cup caster (superfine) sugar

2 tbsp chopped almonds

1 tbsp pine nuts

1/4 tsp grated nutmeg

1/2 tsp ground cardamom

1/4 tsp mace

1 tsp rose water

2 tbsp candied peel

For the puri pastry

200g/7 oz/11/2 cups plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting

1 tbsp icing (confectioners’) sugar

1 tbsp ghee

water, as needed

For the glue/maan

2 tbsp plain (all-purpose) flour

3 tbsp ghee

ghee, for frying

1 tbsp desiccated (dry unsweetened) coconut, for sprinkling

To make the filling, soak the channa daal in a bowl of water overnight. The next day, drain the daal and boil in a pan of fresh water for 25 minutes, or until softened. Drain and set aside.

Heat the ghee in a saucepan over a low heat, add the cooked daal with the sugar and mash with the back of a wooden spoon. Once well combined, add the nuts, spices, rose water and peel, stir well, then allow to cool completely. Using damp hands, roll the cooled mixture into 7.5cm/3-inch diameter balls and set aside on a plate covered with clingfilm or a tea towel.

To make the puri pastry, mix all the ingredients together in a bowl, adding enough water to make a soft dough. Cover with a wet cloth and allow to rest at room temperature for 2 hours.

When ready to make the puri, on a floured surface roll the dough out into 6–8 large discs, about 15–18cm/6–7 inches in diameter and 5mm/1/4 inch thick. Mix the flour and ghee together in a bowl to use as a glue – if it becomes solid, sprinkle with water to stop it from drying out. Place a ball of the filling in the centre and flatten it with your fingers until it is 5mm/1/4 inch thick, leaving at least 5cm/2 inches free at the sides. Bring the sides together and press to close, stick the corners together with glue, then roll out into a 4cm/11/2-inch thick disc.

Heat a flat pancake pan or tawa, rub a little ghee on the surface and cook the puri for 7–8 minutes on each side until light brown and the dough is cooked through. Serve hot, sprinkled with coconut.

◁ Roasted nuts and rock sugar

with hazelnuts, dates, dried cherries and chickpea flour

This recipe is inspired by chickpea flour ladoos, which are found at many Hindu weddings in Pakistan. I have used many of the elements of the ladoo to make this granola-style mix, although a nut called charoli is used in many Parsi sweets, and I have added hazelnuts here. The gritty texture of chickpea flour, nuts and cardamom is always so moreish. This is delicious served with yogurt, milk or even on its own.

Preparation 15 minutes | Cooking 5 minutes | Serves 4

2 tbsp ghee

2–3 cardamom pods, seeds removed and crushed

4 tbsp grated jaggery or muscovado sugar

50g/13/4 oz/scant 1/2 cup chickpea (gram) flour

2 tbsp coarse semolina

50g/13/4 oz/1/4 cup pitted dates, roughly chopped

1 tbsp chopped pistachios

1 tbsp chopped walnuts

1 tbsp pine nuts

1 tbsp chopped hazelnuts

1 tbsp dried cherries

2 tbsp desiccated (dry unsweetened) coconut

4–5 pieces misri (rock sugar) roughly broken

Heat the ghee in a frying pan over a low heat, add the crushed cardamom seeds and as soon as they are aromatic, add the jaggery and allow to melt. Add the chickpea flour and semolina and cook in the melted jaggery, stirring occasionally, for a few seconds, allowing it to form lumps. Add the remaining ingredients and cook for another 30 seconds until fragrant.

Allow to cool, then store in an airtight container for 1 week.

◁ Mango, thyme and pink salt

with rose water clotted cream

This is a delicious combination of the flavours of my childhood: sweet summer mangoes, mineral pink salt, rock hard sugar, gritty poppy seeds and the freshness of garden-picked herbs, topped with decadent fresh whipped buffalo’s milk clotted cream or what we call malai – the fresh cream that tops whole boiled unpasteurised milk. Here, I have created a homemade version of malai, which comes pretty close.

Preparation 10 minutes + overnight standing | Cooking 10 minutes | Serves 2–4

For the clotted cream

200ml/7 fl oz/scant 1 cup double (heavy) cream

50ml/2 fl oz/scant 1/4 cup sour cream

1 tbsp honey

2 tsp rose water

For the toppings

2 large ripe mangoes, peeled, stoned and sliced

1 tbsp white or black poppy seeds

1 tsp pink salt

1 tbsp pistachios, sliced

1 tsp roughly crushed misri (rock sugar) or jaggery

a few crushed lemon thyme leaves

Make the clotted cream by bringing the creams and honey to the boil in a heavy-based saucepan very slowly over a very low heat. Turn the heat down and simmer for 5 minutes, then turn off the heat. Allow the cream to cool before adding the rose water.

Pour the mixture into a non-metallic bowl, cover with a couple of thick tea towels and leave overnight at room temperature to thicken. In the morning, refrigerate until ready to use.

Serve with all the toppings on the side.

◁ Memon lappi

Crunchy oats with jaggery, cinnamon and fennel seeds

Traditionally served as a dessert the day after a Memon wedding, this unusual porridge is normally made with cracked wheat, but oats are a wonderful substitute. The fennel flavour marries well with the crunchiness of the oats too.

Preparation 10 minutes | Cooking 15 minutes | Serves 2

225g/8 oz/11/2 cups jaggery or muscovado sugar, grated or cut into small pieces

400ml/14 fl oz/13/4 cups water

2 tbsp ghee or unsalted butter

2.5cm/1-inch cinnamon stick

3 cardamom pods, seeds removed

50g/13/4 oz/1/2 cup jumbo oats

3 tsp fennel seeds, roughly crushed

1 tsp slivered pistachios or flaked (slivered) almonds, to decorate

Begin by making the jaggery syrup. Heat the jaggery and water in a heavy-based saucepan until the jaggery is completely dissolved, then cook over a low heat for about 4–5 minutes until it is a slightly thick syrup. Turn off the heat and set aside.

Heat the ghee or butter in another saucepan over a medium heat, add the cinnamon stick and cardamom seeds, and when they start to sizzle, add the oats. Stir for about 1–2 minutes until the oats are coated with the ghee and there is a slight nutty smell.

Now add the jaggery syrup, stir and turn the heat down to its lowest setting. Cover the pan and leave to cook in its own steam for 2–4 minutes. Check to see if the jaggery syrup has been absorbed.

Once the jaggery syrup has been absorbed, add the crushed fennel seeds and stir. Cover and leave for 1 minute.

Serve warm with slivered pistachios or almonds and a sprinkle of fennel seeds.