The greatest joy in this book has been the people who made it possible. I want to wrap my arms around the entire region of Emilia-Romagna in appreciation. She and her people shared so much, not only in tangible information, but in the intangibles: the spirit of her hospitality, the way light moves across her plain and her deep passion for her own culinary heritage.
There are so many to thank. But I begin with four people who have shared, supported, helped, and urged me on. So many times they literally lived and breathed Emilia-Romagna with me. Without them there would have been a book, but not this one.
My husband, Frank, heard and critiqued endless drafts of this book. He supported, encouraged, and cheered me on even when it meant my total distraction from anything to do with our life. He made me laugh at those times when laughter was the furthest thing from my mind.
Cara De Silva may well be the only other person in America who cares as deeply about Emilia-Romagna as I do. We have shared so many voyages there. Weeping over extraordinary tortellini, searching for an elusive bread, asking endless questions (and recalling ones I had forgotten), Cara is not only the sister I never had, but also part of the heart and soul of this book.
Marjorie Cater defines the word friend. When I could no longer see forests for trees, Marjorie said, “Let me help.” For six weeks Marjorie and her husband, Fred, stopped their lives and opened their home to my computer and library. Together we sorted through the grain and chaff of the manuscript. No friend or writer could be blessed with more.
Maria Guarnaschelli is a writer’s dream of an editor, bringing every bit of her remarkable intelligence, passion, objectivity, wonderful humor and incredible energy to this project. She is the midwife and second mother of this book. I can never fully express my thanks for her deep commitment and friendship.
Jane Dystel has been agent par excellence—always there and always savvy. She is everything an author could ask for in an agent.
Mario Zannoni of the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano and Parma scholar shared his passion for Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano, answered nine years’ worth of questions, and urged my thinking and my research in the directions that formed much of this book. My debt to him is boundless.
Photographer Lou Wallach and food stylist Rick Ellis translated my vision and the food of Emilia-Romagna into superb pictures. Thanks to them and their crews. Special appreciation to Richard Oriolo for his help with the photos and the sensitive layout of the book. Food historian and friend Alice Ross unhesitantly opened her home and fabulous 18th-century cooking studio to us, making possible photographs that would have been otherwise impossible.
So much gratitude to my mother and stepfather, Elda and Arthur Fulvini, for their love and encouragement. They joined forces with my aunt and uncle, Rita and Edward Buonaccorsi, in an emergency grapevine run so our tortellini pie could be photographed in a proper setting. Anna Teresa Callen is an Italian fairy godmother who insisted on my readopting my Italian maiden name, loaned her treasures for photographs, then patiently checked over my Italian throughout the manuscript. Thank you, dear lady. Alice Fixx is this book’s great-aunt, leading me to so many people, hosting so many voyages of adventure, while encouraging and advising.
Lin Lacy and Barbara Greenspon listened and urged me on with unfailing belief. Designer Stephanie Tevonian brought her flair to the book, creating a thing of beauty. Francesca Lo Baido brought her warm and tireless support to the book, as did all the entire Modena/St. Paul Sister City Committee. Kit Rogers lent his talent and wonderful humor. My thanks to Colleen Herrick and her husband, Michael, who worked unstintingly testing recipes with me. Denise Landis gave perceptive and thoughtful notes on the first drafts of these dishes, helping me rethink and rework where necessary. Thanks, too, to Janice Cole, Hally Herron and Lois Lee, who generously helped with the last of the tests, and to everyone at Cook’s of Crocus Hill.
Maureen Walker helped with proofing, giving her time with such generosity. Andrea Grover, Mary Beth Clark and Gisella Isadori shared contacts and information.
Pat Brown, as editor of Cuisine, sent me to Emilia-Romagna on assignment. That article planted the seeds for this book. My gratitude to her is not only for that, but for the lunches of enthusiasm and support. And to everyone at Bon Appétit—Bill Garry, Barbara Fairchild and former editor Marilou Vaughan—my thanks for the encouragement and for the years of working with some of the nicest people in the business.
Anyone writing about Italy owes much to Marcella Hazan. She is the doyenne. My introduction to Emilia-Romagna was through her classes in Bologna in 1977. My appreciation to the Italian Trade Commission in New York for so much help, especially Dr. Giorgio Lulli and Michele Jones.
Bologna was opened to me through the years by Anna Maria and Paolo Penzo, who shared so much. The tourist board there orchestrated much of the beginnings of my research and stepped in with assistance whenever I asked. Special thanks to Aldo d’Alfonso and Dr. Gianna Spezia. These are some of the Bolognese who offered so much information and assistance: Giancarlo Roversi, Bruno Tasselli, Giovanni Tamburini, Franco Rossi, Romano Fornasari, Anna Maria and Romano Bonaga, Athos Conti, Eligio Grasselli, Renato Gualandi, Ivo Salsini, Franco Cazzola, Piero Bondi and Ivo Galletti.
Paola Bini and the farm women at Villa Gaidello shared Modena’s and Bologna’s farm traditions as well as friendship and recipes. My deep appreciation to Dr. Guidotti-Bentivoglio, Mario Costanzini, Professor Renato Bergonzini and members of the Consorzio Produttori Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena for their years of help. Bergonzini unfailingly shared contacts, history, and his vast knowledge. Gran Maestro Benedetto Benedetti, Florindo Sirotti, Giuseppe Giusti, Giuseppe Cattani, Italo Pedroni and other members of Spilamberto’s vinegar consortium first introduced me to the artisanship of balsamic vinegar. The Leonelli family of Rodiano introduced me to Tigelle; Eugenio Gollini graciously shared everything about Torta Barozzi except the recipe, and Mauro Cappi and Vasco Bagni brought alive so many Modena hill traditions.
The consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese has been a mainstay for almost a decade. So much has been shared far beyond cheese, an entire chapter could be written on their contributions. My special thanks to Senator Giampaolo Mora, Renzo Cattabiani, and Dr. Leo Bertozzi. Doors have opened and people have welcomed me because of their help. Ettore Grisendi, Signore Fanti and Massimo Montuschi of the Consortium of Prosciutto di Parma deserve so much thanks. Ettore’s knowledge of Parma foods is encyclopedic. Thanks also to Guglielmo Capacchi, Ugo Falavigna, Dino Piani, Paola Cavazinni, Elia Fanti, Maurizio Rossi, Sergio Ravazzoni, everyone at Salumeria Garibaldi, Eletta Violi, Erminia Marasi, Anna Bertolazzi, Barilla Pasta, Dr. Luigi and Elsa Zannoni, Miriam and Elena Leonardi, Giancarlo Grassi, the staff of Due Foscari, and Giovanni Ballarini.
In Reggio my thanks to Pier Paolo and Stefano Veroni, who patiently responded to faxes and phone calls of endless questions, to the Dallari pasta makers, and erbazzoni maker Leonardo Righi.
So much of Piacenza was shared by my stepfather, Arthur Fulvini, and his family there—Delphina Fulvini, Dr. Ugo Gazzola, and his wife, Cesarina. Through them I met Giorgio Cogni and Maria Bertuzzi.
Ferrara’s Nicola Gigli and the tourist board always were on the spot with responses, assistance, and fine good humor. Riccardo Rimondi helped shape the essence of this book with his recipes and information. Thanks also to Sergio Ferrarini, Michele Bonino, Ida Bonfiglioli Ascoli, the Perdonati bakers, Aldo Brando, Lanfranco Viola and Giovanni Battista Panatta.
Gianni Quondomatteo and his family brought alive the folklore of Romagna. I can never repay their instant kindness and generosity. Franco Casalboni gave a whole new dimension to cucina povera with his “poor” lunch. Thanks also to Elettiziana Bernardini, Fabiano Bernardini, Antonio Monti, Rosa Severi Grazia, Elionore Dallaro, Annapia Bertoni and Primo Grassi.