Leg o’ Lamb

Leg of lamb is thick at the hip end and tapers to the ankle end like a ham, yielding enough meat to feed eight or more. It’s a complex bundle of muscles with layers of fat and connective tissue throughout. This huge mass of meat is an impressive sight and is certain to get your guests salivating.

Makes 8 to 10 servings

Takes up to 24 hours to dry brine and about 2 hours to cook

1. Prep. Remove as much as possible of the thick fat cap on the surface of the lamb and all the silverskin underneath. Remove the aitchbone (see page 288) if you didn’t have it removed at the store. If you wish, gash the surface so it can get crunchy and to create more surface area for the rub (see page 227).

2. Dry brine. Sprinkle less salt over thin parts of the meat and a little more on the thicker parts. If there are loose flaps of meat, tie the leg with butcher’s twine so the flaps lie flat against the rest of the leg.

3. Wet your hands and pat the surface of the meat so it is moist and the rub will stick. Pat the rub all over the meat and massage it deep into the gashes.

4. Prep the Board Sauce in a coffee cup.

5. Fire up. Set up the grill for two-zone cooking so the indirect side is about 225°F. This cut of lamb performs much better at low temperatures. If you’d like a little smoke flavor, add a small amount of dry wood now.

6. Cook. Roast on the indirect-heat side with the lid down until the meat’s internal temperature hits about 120°F. Move the meat to the direct-heat side and sear it until it is dark on all four sides and the temperature in the center reaches 130°F. As you can see in the picture below, I used a pair of preheated foil-wrapped bricks to hold the roast on edge and get an all-over sear.

7. Serve. Pour the Board Sauce on the cutting board, plop the meat on top of it, and start carving. Slice the lamb across the grain into ¼-inch-thick slices, get plenty of the sauce on them and let the meat juices mingle with the sauce.

Note: A typical bone-in leg of lamb will usually be in the 8- to 9-pound range, perhaps smaller in the spring. After it is trimmed and has the aitchbone removed, it will weigh about 6 pounds. The same boned leg will yield about 5 pounds of meat.