PERTH
Climate
Perth is Australia’s sunniest capital, with an annual average of eight hours of sunshine per day. All this sunshine gives Perth a Mediterranean climate of hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. The average maximum temperature in summer is 31°C; however, heat waves of temperatures in the high 30s and low 40s are not unusual. Fortunately, an afternoon sea breeze affectionately known as ‘the Fremantle Doctor’ eases the heat of summer.
Getting around
The city is compact and easy to explore. A free bus service known as CATS (Central Area Transit Service) operates regular services, every five to ten minutes, around central Perth. The blue CAT runs in a north–south loop, the red CAT operates in an east–west loop, and the yellow CAT travels from East Perth to West Perth. (CAT bus services also operate in Fremantle and Joondalup.) You can also travel free on Transperth buses or trains within the Free Transit Zone in the city centre, but only on trips that start and finish within the zone.
Trains run from the city out to the northern suburbs and down to Fremantle while the Southern Suburbs Railway links Perth to Mandurah. Ferries and cruise boats depart regularly from Barrack Street Jetty to various destinations, including Fremantle, South Perth, Rottnest Island and the Swan Valley wine region.
(Transperth runs the ferry to South Perth, while private operators travel further afield.) Perth, with its largely flat landscape, is also excellent for cycling; maps of the city’s 700-kilometre bike network are available at bike shops or online at the Department of Transport website, www.transport.wa.gov.au
Public transport Transperth Infoline (bus, train and ferry) 13 6213.
Airport shuttle bus Airport–city shuttle 1300 666 806.
Swan River Cruises Captain Cook Cruises (08) 9325 3341.
Motoring organisation RAC of WA 13 1703.
Car rental Avis 13 6333; Budget 13 2727; Hertz 13 3039; Thrifty 13 6139.
Taxis Black and White Taxis 13 1008; Swan Taxis 13 1330.
Bicycle hire About Bike Hire (08) 9221 2665.
Top events
Hopman Cup Prestigious international tennis event. January.
Perth Cup Western Australia’s premier horseracing event. January.
Australia Day Skyworks A day-long party of events, culminating in a spectacular fireworks display. January.
Perth International Arts Festival Music, theatre, opera, dance, visual arts and film. February.
City of Perth Winter Arts Festival A threemonth program of locally created arts and culture. June–August.
Kings Park Wildflower Festival Australia’s premier native plant and wildflower exhibition. September.
Perth Royal Show Showcases the state’s primary and secondary resources. September–October.
Red Bull Air Race A weekend of jawdropping, low-level aerial racing over the Swan River. November.
Museums
Fire and Emergency Services Education and Heritage Centre Refurbished in 2009, this limestone building dating from 1900 houses exhibitions on the history of the Perth fire brigade, including fire rescue and old Big Red engines. Cnr Murray and Irwin sts;(08) 9323 9353; 10am–4pm Tues–Thurs; admission free.
Francis Burt Law Museum The history of the state’s legal system is housed in the Old Court House. Stirling Gardens, cnr St Georges Tce and Barrack St; (08) 9325 4787; open 10am–2.30pm Wed–Fri; admission free.
Museum of Performing Arts Entertainment history brought to life through exhibitions of costumes and memorabilia taken from backstage archives. His Majesty’s Theatre, 825 Hay St; (08) 9265 0900; open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri; admission by gold-coin donation.
WACA Museum Offers cricket memorabilia for fans of the sport. Gate 2, Nelson Cres, East Perth; (08) 9265 7222; open 10am–3pm Mon–Fri except match days; tours of ground and museum 10am and 1pm Mon–Thurs.
Army Museum of Western Australia Houses WA army memorabilia dating from colonial times to the present day. Artillery Barracks, Burt St, Fremantle; (08) 9430 2535; open 11am–4pm Wed–Sun.
See also See also Perth Mint, Western Australian Museum, Shipwreck Galleries, Fremantle Arts Centre and History Museum.
Galleries
Aspects of Kings Park Contemporary Australian craft and design, with a focus on local artists. Fraser Ave, Kings Park and Botanic Garden, West Perth; (08) 9480 3900; open 9am–5pm daily.
Aboriginal Art Gallery A variety of innovative, contemporary and traditional Aboriginal art and artefacts. Under the lookout on Fraser Ave, Kings Park; West Perth; (08) 9481 7082; 10.30am–4.30pm Mon–Fri, 11am–4pm Sat–Sun.
Greenhill Galleries New York–style gallery features works of leading Australian artists. 16 Gugeri St, Claremont; (08) 9383 4433; open 10am–5pm Tues–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat.
Indigenart Mossenson Galleries One of Australia’s foremost Aboriginal art galleries. 115 Hay St, Subiaco; (08) 9388 2899; open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 11am–4pm Sat.
Kailis Australian Pearls Perfectly matched strands and handcrafted pieces made from exquisite cultured and seedless pearls. 29 King St, Perth; (08) 9422 3888; cnr Marine Tce and Collie St, Fremantle; (08) 9239 9330.
See also Art Gallery of Western Australia, Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts.
Grand old buildings
Government House Gothic arches and turrets reminiscent of the Tower of London. St Georges Tce (opposite Pier St).
His Majesty’s Theatre The ‘Maj’, built in 1904, features an opulent Edwardian exterior. 825 Hay St; foyer tours 10am–4pm Mon–Fri; gold-coin donation.
Kirkman House In front of this gracious edifice is an immense Moreton Bay fig tree, planted in the 1890s and now classified by the National Trust. 10 Murray St.
Old Court House Perth’s oldest surviving building (1836), now home to the Francis Burt Law Museum. Cnr St Georges Tce and Barrack St.
Old Perth Boys’ School Perth’s first purpose-built school was made from sandstone ferried up the Swan River by convict labour. 139 St Georges Tce.
Perth Town Hall Built by convict labour (1867–70) in the style of an English Jacobean market hall. Cnr Hay and Barrack sts.
St George’s Cathedral This 1879 Anglican church features an impressive jarrah ceiling. 38 St Georges Tce.
St Mary’s Cathedral Grand Gothic-style cathedral, one end of which was built in 1865. Victoria Sq.
The Cloisters Check out the decorative brickwork of this 1858 building, originally a boys’ school. The old banyan tree adjoining it is something special too. 200 St Georges Tce.
Shopping
Claremont Quarter, Claremont Perth’s upmarket fashion hot spot. B5
Hay Street Mall, Murray Street Mall and Forrest Place, City The CBD’s main shopping precinct with brand-name fashion outlets and major department stores Myer and David Jones. B2
King Street, City High fashion, galleries and cafes with style. B2
London Court, City Mock-Tudor arcade with souvenir, jewellery and antique stores. B2
Napoleon Street, Cottesloe Cafes, boutiques and designer homewares. B5
Rokeby Road, Subiaco Funky local designers sit alongside more established labels. C3
Markets
Canning Vale Markets Huge undercover flea markets, and the primary fruit and vegetable wholesale market for the state. Cnr South St and Bannister Rd; 7am–2pm Sun. C6
The Markets @ Perth Cultural Centre The only regular weekend market in the city with produce, flowers and arts and crafts. 8.30am–5pm Sat–Sun. C1
Scarborough Fair Markets Speciality stalls and a food hall on Scarborough Beach. Cnr Scarborough Beach Rd and West Coast Hwy; 9am–5.30pm Sat–Sun. A1
Subiaco Pavilion Markets Art and craft stalls with large food hall in restored warehouse adjacent to station. Cnr Rokeby and Roberts rds, Subiaco; 10am–9pm Thurs–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat–Sun. C3
Subiaco Station Street Markets A colourful outdoor and undercover market with an eclectic array of goods and live entertainment. 41 Station St, Subiaco; (08) 9382 2832; 9am–5.30pm Fri–Sun. C3
Wanneroo Markets Huge undercover markets with food court selling everything from locally grown fruit and vegetables to footwear and jewellery. 33 Prindiville Dr, Wangara; (08) 9409 8397; 9am–5pm Fri–Sun. B4
Walks and tours
Fremantle Prison Tours Choose from a range of tours including the fascinating ‘Doing Time Tour’, every 30 minutes between 10am and 5pm, and the spooky ‘Torchlight Tour’ on Wednesdays and Fridays at 7pm. 1 The Terrace, Fremantle; (08) 9336 9200.
His Majesty’s Theatre Tour Discover the colourful show-business history of ‘The Maj’ on the two-hour Grand Historical tour with theatre historian Ivan King, Tues–Thurs 10.30am. There’s also a Behind the Scenes tour and foyer tours. (08) 9265 0900.
Kings Park Indigenous Heritage Tour Learn about bush medicines, bush tucker and Indigenous history in this 1.5-hour tour. (08) 9480 3600; 1.30pm daily.
Kings Park Walks Free guided walks, including the Botanic Garden Discovery, Bushland Nature Trail and the Memorials Walk, among others. (08) 9480 3600; 10am and 2pm daily, plus 12pm Sept–June.
Perth Walking Tours Take a free city orientation tour at 11am Monday to Saturday and noon on Sunday, or learn about Perth’s history and culture on a free guided tour at 2pm weekdays. City of Perth Information Kiosk, Murray St Mall (near Forrest Pl).
Swan River Cruises Choose from full-or half-day cruises up the Swan River to the Swan Valley, with wine tastings included. Captain Cook Cruises, bookings on (08) 9325 3341.
The Rock ‘n’ Roll Mountain Biking Tours Enjoy a scenic tour of the bushlands of Western Australia on a safe, controlled mountainbiking experience. 0410 949 182 or 0428 263 668; www.rockandrollmountainbiking.com.au.
Two Feet & A Heartbeat Walking Tours Combining Perth’s history with quirky tales and emerging culture, these walks include the Perth Urban Adventure and Eat/Drink/Walk Perth. There’s even a Perth Shopping Tour; www.twofeet.com.au
Entertainment
Cinema To catch a movie in the city, go to the Piccadilly Cinema in Piccadilly Arcade in the Hay Street Mall, which screens new-release films in Perth’s only surviving grand old Art Deco cinema, or Cinema Paradiso, just across the railway line in Northbridge. The most easily accessible Hoyts cinemas are in Fremantle at the Queensgate on William Street and the Millennium on Collie Street. The closest Event cinema to the city is in Innaloo. Subiaco has an independent cinema, the Ace at 500 Hay St on the corner of Alvan. There’s also the Luna Palace in Leederville, the Windsor in Nedlands, the Cygnet in Como and the Luna on SX (Essex Street) in Fremantle. In summer, there are a number of outdoor cinemas that operate; favourites are the Moonlight Cinema in Kings Park and the Somerville Auditorium at the University of Western Australia. The latter, which screens films for the Perth International Arts Festival from December through March, is defined by a cathedral of Norfolk pine trees and patrons sit on deckchair style seats under the stars. Programs and session times, including those for the open-air cinemas over summer, are listed daily in The West Australian.
Live music Northbridge, Leederville and Subiaco are the places to go for live music, as a healthy pub scene supports local musicians. In Northbridge popular venues include the Brass Monkey, the Mustang Bar, the Paramount, the Elephant & Wheelbarrow and Rosie O’Grady’s. The Leederville Hotel on Oxford Street has a legendary Sunday afternoon session; the Ocean Beach Hotel in Cottesloe (known locally as the ‘OBH’) adds sunset views from the bar. In Fremantle, the premier live-music venues are the Fly by Night Musicians Club on Parry Street, Kulcha on South Terrace and Mojos in North Freo. Pick up the free street publication Xpress for gig guides or visit www.xpressmag.com.au. Jazz venues include the Hyde Park Hotel in Bulwer Street, North Perth; the Navy Club in High Street, Fremantle; and the Ellington Jazz Club at 191 Beaufort Street, Perth.
Classical music and performing arts His Majesty’s Theatre, Australia’s only remaining Edwardian theatre, is Perth’s premier venue for high-end theatre, opera and ballet. The State Theatre Centre of WA, opened in 2011 in Northbridge, is home to both WA’s flagship theatre company, Black Swan State Theatre Company, and the Perth Theatre Company. The Regal Theatre in Subiaco stages local and imported productions; nearby, the Subiaco Arts Centre is home to Barking Gecko Theatre Company, which produces theatre for young people. Fremantle is home to Deckchair Theatre in High Street and Spare Parts Puppet Theatre in Short Street. The Perth Concert Hall in St Georges Terrace is the fine music venue for concerts by local and international musicians. Perth Arena, opened in 2012, draws crowds to Wellington Street in the city for concerts; the Burswood Entertainment Complex hosts touring shows and musicals; and NIB Stadium in East Perth is the venue for big international acts. In the warmer months, particularly in February when the Perth International Arts Festival is on, outdoor concerts are held in the Supreme Court and Queens Gardens, and in Kings Park. Check The West Australian for details.
Sport
AFL (Australian Football League) is the most popular spectator sport in Perth, with crowds flocking to Patersons Stadium in Subiaco from April through September to support their local teams, the West Coast Eagles and the Fremantle Dockers. The cricket season takes up where the footy leaves off, with the famous WACA grounds in East Perth hosting both interstate and international test matches over the summer months.
Perth’s soccer club, the Perth Glory, and WA’s Rugby Union team, the Western Force, are both based at NIB Stadium in East Perth.
Basketball fans can catch the popular Perth Wildcats from September to February at Challenge Stadium in Mount Claremont, while their female counterparts, the West Coast Waves, play nearby at the WA Basketball Centre.
After years of being held at the Burswood Dome every January, the Hopman Cup, a prestigious international tennis event, moved in January 2013 to its new home at the Perth Arena in Wellington Street in the city.
Horseracing is a year-round event, split between two venues: Ascot racecourse in summer and Belmont Park in winter. Events such as the Perth Cup (held on New Year’s Day), the Easter Racing Carnival and the Opening Day at Ascot draw huge crowds. Night harness racing can be seen at Gloucester Park every Friday night.
Where to eat
No. 44 King Street Situated in a historic innercity Victorian warehouse on one of Perth’s most fashionable streetscapes, this all-day brasserie offers weekly menu changes, an in-house bakery, good coffee and an extensive wine list. 44 King St, Perth; (08) 9321 4476; open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. B2
Fraser’s Restaurant Boasts contemporary cuisine and spectacular views of the city. Fraser Ave, Kings Park, West Perth; (08) 9482 0100; lunch and dinner daily. D3
Ha-Lu Relatively new and already an award finalist offering Japanese cuisine served in the Japanese pub style. Shop 4/401 Oxford St, Mt Hawthorn; (08) 9444 0577; open Wed–Sun for dinner. D2
Must Winebar Bistro-style French Provincial cuisine with impressive wine list and always busy. 519 Beaufort St, Highgate; (08) 9328 8255; open daily for lunch and dinner. E3
Nahm Thai Self-taught chef Kevin Pham creates high-end Thai food that shows superb finesse with the Asian sweet-hot-sour-salty quartet of flavour balance. 223 Bulwer St, Perth; (08) 9328 7500; open Mon–Sat for dinner. D3
New Norcia Bakeries Authentic sourdough and yeasted breads baked in a traditional woodfired oven; also many other tempting delights. 163 Scarborough Beach Rd, Mt Hawthorn; (08) 9443 4114; open daily for breakfast and lunch. D2
Pata Negra The best tapas bar in Perth offers seriously tasty food that might have its heart in Spain but its innovative twists are pure Oz. 26 Stirling Highway, Nedlands; (08) 9389 5517; open Fri for lunch, Tues–Sat for dinner. C4
Restaurant Amuse Innovative, award-winning chef Hadleigh Troy uses his brilliant technique and eclectic food artistry to create a dining experience like no other in Perth. 64 Bronte St, East Perth; (08) 9325 4900; open Tues–Sat for dinner. E3
Rockpool Bar & Grill Voted the WA Good Food Guide’s 2012 Restaurant of the Year, Neil Perry’s western outpost of his famous restaurant offers the best steaks in town. Burswood Entertainment Complex; (08) 6252 1900; open daily for lunch and dinner. F3
The Old Brewery This premier steakhouse boasts some of the best waterside views in Perth and superb food – and it’s just minutes from the CBD. 173 Mounts Bay Rd, Perth; (08) 9211 8999; open daily for lunch and dinner. E6
Where to stay
Beaufort House 237 Beaufort St, Perth; (08) 9227 8316.
Above Bored Bed and Breakfast 14 Norham St, North Perth; (08) 9444 5455.
Armadale Cottage Bed & Breakfast 3161 Albany Hwy, Armadale; (08) 9497 1663.
Banksia Tourist Park 219 Midland Rd, Hazelmere; (08) 9250 2398.
Cherokee Village Mobile Home & Tourist Park 10 Hocking Rd, Kingsley; (08) 9409 9039.
Discovery Holiday Parks – Perth 186 Hale Rd, Forrestfield; (08) 9453 6677.
Durham Lodge 165 Shepperton Rd, Victoria Park; (08) 9361 8000.
Eight Nicholson 8 Nicholson Rd, Subiaco; (08) 9382 1881.
Karrinyup Waters Resort 467 North Beach Rd, Gwelup; (08) 9447 6665.
Kingsway Tourist and Caravan Park Cnr Kingsway and Wanneroo Rd, Madeley; (08) 9409 9267.
Palms Bed & Breakfast 24 Dorchester Ave, Warwick; (08) 9246 9499.
Parkside B&B 21 Woolnough St, Daglish; (08) 9388 6075.
Perth Vineyards Holiday Park – Aspen Parks 91 Benara Rd, Caversham; (08) 9279 6700.
Swan Valley Tourist Park 6581 West Swan Rd, West Swan; (08) 9274 2828.
Trigg Retreat Bed and Breakfast 59 Kitchener St, Trigg; (08) 9447 6726.
Day tours
Rottnest Island Just off the coast of Perth, in Thomson Bay, the low-key island resort of Rottnest makes for a perfect day tour. Access is via ferry from Fremantle, Perth or Hillarys Boat Harbour. No private cars are permitted: island transport is by foot, bicycle or bus. Visitors to Rottnest can divide their time between the beach and the scenic and historic attractions of the island.
Darling Range Follow the Great Eastern Highway for a tour of the Darling Range and its 80 000 hectares of escarpment and jarrah forest in the Hills Forest area. Highlights include a scenic drive through John Forrest National Park and a visit to the huge, forest-fringed Mundaring Weir.
Swan Valley A premier wine-growing district, with vineyards along the scenic Swan River. Other attractions include the historic town of Guildford; Woodbridge House, a Victorian mansion in West Midland; Walyunga National Park; and Whiteman Park, a 2500-hectare area that includes Caversham Wildlife Park.
Yanchep National Park On the coast north of Perth, Yanchep has long been one of the city’s favourite recreation areas. Have your photo taken with a koala; see didgeridoo and dance performances; or take a guided tour of Crystal Cave, where stalactites hang above the inky waters of an underground pool.
Top events
St Patrick’s Day Parade and Concert Celebrates the Irish national holiday with much gusto. March.
Fremantle Street Arts Festival Local, national and international buskers perform on the streets. Easter.
Freo’s West Coast Blues ’n Roots Festival Day-long celebration of blues, roots, reggae and rock, with many big-name acts. April.
Blessing of the Fleet Traditional Italian blessing of the fishing fleet. October.
Fremantle Festival Performing arts and community activities culminating in a street parade and dance party. November.
Grand old buildings
Elder’s Building Georgian-style building, made of brick and Donnybrook stone, once the hub of Fremantle’s overseas trade. 11 Cliff St. map of Fremantle
Esplanade Hotel This 1890s hotel has been extended to blend in with the original facade. Cnr Marine Tce and Essex St. map of Fremantle
Fremantle Technical College Now the Challenger TAFE e-Tech, this building boasts Donnybrook stone facings and plinth with Art Nouveau decorative influences. Cnr South Tce and Essex St. map of Fremantle
Lionel Samson Building A rich facade epitomises the optimistic style of gold-rush architecture. 31–35 Cliff St. map of Fremantle
Samson House Grand old 1900 house, originally built for Michael Samson, who later became mayor of Fremantle. Cnr Ellen and Ord sts; 1–5pm Sun. map of Fremantle
St John’s Anglican Church Features a stone belltower and large stained-glass window. Cnr Adelaide and Queen sts. map of Fremantle
Warders’ Quarters A row of convict-built cottages built in 1851, used until recently to house warders from the Fremantle Prison. Henderson St. map of Fremantle
See also The Round House and Fremantle Prison
Where to eat
Blue Water Grill One of Perth’s best dining establishments, right on the Swan River, with uninterrupted city views and an emphasis on seafood. Heathcote Court, 56 Duncraig St; (08) 9315 7700; open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. D5
Capri Rustic, Italian comfort food at its best at this local establishment. The osso-bucco and pastas are deliciously more-ish, and the free soup and bread has become a tradition. Cash only. 21 South Tce; (08) 9335 1399; open daily for lunch and dinner.
Cicerello’s The epitome of fish-and-chip dining on Fremantle’s Fishing Boat Harbour. 2/1 Howard St; (08) 9335 9811; open daily for lunch and dinner. map of Fremantle
Little Creatures Harbour-side brewery, bar and restaurant serves hearty fare to its enormous following. 40 Mews Rd; (08) 9339 9500; open Mon–Fri 10am until late, Sat–Sun 9am until late. map of Fremantle
Maya Widely considered to be the best Indian food in town. 75 Market St; (08) 9335 2796; open Fri for lunch; Tues–Sun for dinner. map of Fremantle
The Red Herring Up-market seafood restaurant boasts a magical setting right on the river. 26 Riverside Rd, East Fremantle; (08) 9339 1611; open daily for lunch and dinner, and Sun for breakfast.
Sandrino Cafe and Pizzeria Rated ‘the best pizzas in town’ in the 2012 Good Food Guide. 95 Market St; (08) 9335 4487; open 11am–9.30pm daily. map of Fremantle
Sala Thai A local favourite, serves Thai cuisine comparable to its country of origin. 22 Norfolk St; (08) 9335 7749; open daily for dinner. map of Fremantle
Where to stay
Fothergills of Fremantle 18–22 Ord St; (08) 9335 6784.
Terrace Central B&B Hotel 79 South Tce; (08) 9335 6600.
Fremantle Village 25 Cockburn Rd, South Fremantle; (08) 9430 4866.
Heritage Cottage Bed & Breakfast 273 South Tce, South Fremantle; (08) 9433 5946.