[ KARRI TREES, NEAR MARGARET RIVER ]

* Distances for towns nearby are calculated as the crow flies.

* Food and accommodation listings in town are ordered alphabetically with places nearby listed at the end.

Albany

Pop. 25 197 Map ref. South Coast D11 | South-western WA G11 | Southern WA E11

Old Railway Station, Proudlove Pde; (08) 9841 9290 or 1800 644 088; www.albanytourist.com.au

100.9 FM Albany Community Radio, 630 AM ABC Local Radio

Albany, a picturesque city on Western Australia’s south coast, is the site of the state’s first European settlement. On Boxing Day 1826, Major Edmund Lockyer, with a party of soldiers and convicts from New South Wales, came ashore to establish a military and penal outpost. Ninety years later, Albany was the embarkation point for Australian troops during World War I and, for many, their last view of the continent. A whaling industry, which began in the 1940s, defined the town until the Cheynes Beach Whaling Company closed in 1978. Nowadays, whalewatching has taken its place. Lying within the protected shelter of the Princess Royal Harbour on the edge of King George Sound, Albany is one of the state’s most popular tourist destinations.

Historic buildings As WA’s oldest town, Albany boasts more than 50 buildings of historical significance dating back to the early years of the settlement. Two of the oldest were built in the 1830s: Patrick Taylor Cottage on Duke St, which houses an extensive collection of period costumes and household goods, and the Old Farm at Strawberry Hill on Middleton Rd, site of the first government farm in WA. Other heritage buildings include the Old Gaol (1851), with its collection of social history artefacts, and the Residency Museum (1850s), a showcase of historical and environmental exhibits, both in Residency Rd. There are selfguide walks available, including the Colonial Buildings Historical Walk; contact visitor centre for brochures.

The Amity: full-scale replica of the brig that brought Albany’s first settlers from Sydney in 1826; Princess Royal Dr. St. John’s Church: 1848 Anglican church is the oldest in the state; York St. Albany Entertainment Centre: architecturally stunning new performing arts centre on foreshore with breathtaking harbourviews; Toll Place.Vancouver Arts Centre: gallery, craft shop, studio and workshop complex, originally the Albany Cottage Hospital (1887); Vancouver St. House of Gems: extensive range of gemstones and jewellery; Cnr York St and Stirling Tce. Dog Rock: granite outcrop resembling the head of an enormous labrador is a photo opportunity not to be missed; Middleton Rd. Princess Royal Fortress: Albany’s first federal fortress, commissioned in 1893 and fully operational until the 1950s, now houses military museums and war memorials; off Forts Rd. The White Star Hotel: charming historic hotel with microbrewery; Stirling Tce. Spectacular views: lookouts at the peaks of Mt Clarence and Mt Melville have 360-degree views. Near the top of Mt Clarence is the Desert Mounted Corps Memorial statue, a recast of the original statue erected at Suez in 1932; Apex Dr. John Barnesby Memorial Lookout at the top of Mt Melville is 23 m high, with observation decks; Melville Dr. Mt Clarence Downhill: new downhill mountain bike trail adjacent to the peak Apex Dr. Bibbulmun Track: 963 km walking track to Perth begins at Albany’s Old Railway Station in Proudlove Pde; see below. Whale-watching: cruises daily from town jetty to see southern rights; June–Oct.

[ ALBANY’S TOWN HALL ]

Albany Farmers Market: Collie St; 8am–12pm Sat. Albany Boatshed Markets: Princess Royal Dr; 10am–1pm Sun. Vintage Blues Festival: Jan. Taste Great Southern Food and Food and Wine Festival: Feb–Mar.

The Earl of Spencer Historic Inn: pub fare in historic tavern; Cnr Earl and Spencer sts; (08) 9847 4262. Lime 303: contemporary, creative restaurant; The Dog Rock Motel, 303 Middleton Rd; (08) 9845 7298. The Naked Bean Coffee Roasters: delicious snacks for coffee addicts; 21 Sanford Rd; (08) 9841 4225. Wild Duck Restaurant: sophisticated dining; Shop 5, 112 York St; (08) 9842 2554.

Norman House: 28 Stirling Tce; (08) 9841 5995. Albany Happy Days Caravan Park: 1584 Millbrook Rd, King River; (08) 9844 3267. Albany Holiday Park: 550 Albany Hwy, Milpara; (08) 9841 7800. Albany’s Emu Beach Holiday Park:8 Medcalf Pde, Emu Point; (08) 9844 1147. Chalet Arunga: 250 Hunwick Rd, Torbay; (08) 9845 1025. Cheynes Beach Caravan Park: 12 Bald Island Rd, Cheynes; (08) 9846 1247. Kalgan River Chalets & Caravan Park: 247 Nanarup Rd, Kalgan; (08) 9844 7937. Middleton Beach Holiday Park: 28 Flinders Pde, Middleton Beach; (08) 9841 3593. Rose Gardens Beachside Holiday Park: 45 Mermaid Ave, Emu Point; (08) 9844 1868. Saltair B&B: 56 Wylie Cres, Middleton Beach; (08) 9841 1663.

Bibbulmun Track At 963 km, this is WA’s only long-distance walking trail and one of the longest continuously marked trails in Australia. It stretches from Kalamunda, a suburb on the outskirts of Perth, to Albany. On the way it passes through some of the state’s most picturesque southern towns including Dwellingup, Collie, Balingup, Pemberton, Northcliffe, Walpole and Denmark. Named after a local Aboriginal language group, the track is marked by a stylised image of the ‘Waugal’ (rainbow serpent), a spirit being from the Aboriginal Dreaming. Whether taking a short walk or a 5-day hike, easy access points enable walkers of all ages and fitness levels to experience the Bibbulmun Track. Walk the track in springtime and see the bush at its best with WA’s amazing array of wildflowers. Near Walpole you’ll encounter the massive red tingle trees of the Valley of the Giants. Other well-known natural attractions on the track include Mt Cook, the highest point in the Darling Range, Beedelup Falls and the Gloucester Tree lookout. For maps and more information contact the Bibbulmun Track Office of DEC on (08) 9334 0265 or visit www.bibbulmuntrack.org.au

Torndirrup National Park Torndirrup is one of the most visited parks in the state, featuring abundant wildflowers, wildlife and bushwalking trails. Granite outcrops and cliffs alternate with dunes, and sandy heath supports peppermint, banksia and karri. The park is renowned for its rugged coastal scenery, including such features as the Gap, a chasm with a 24 m drop to the sea, and the Natural Bridge, a span of granite eroded by huge seas to form a giant arch. Exercise extreme caution on this dangerous coastline; king waves can rush in unexpectedly. 17 km S.

Whale World Even before the Cheynes Beach Whaling Company closed in 1978, Albany’s oldest industry was a major tourist attraction. In its heyday, the company’s chasers took up to 850 whales a season. View the restored whale-chaser Cheynes IV, whale skeletons, the old processing factory, an aircraft display and the world’s largest collection of marine mammal paintings. This is the only whaling museum in the world created from a working whaling station. A 3D theatrette occupies one of the old whale-oil storage tanks. Free guided tours are available on (08) 9844 4021. 25 km SE.

Albany Bird Park: undercover walk-in aviary with over 250 native and exotic birds; Frenchman Bay Rd; 3.5 km SW. Deer-O-Dome: showcases the Australian deer industry; 6 km N. Mount Romance Sandalwood Factory: skincare products, perfumes, therapeutics and free guided tours; (08) 9845 6888; 12 km N. Albany Wind Farm: 12 giant turbines, each 100 m high; 12 km SW. Point Possession Heritage Trail: views and interpretive plaques; Vancouver Peninsula; 20 km SE. Fishing: Emu Point (8 km NE ), Oyster Harbour (15 km NE ), Jimmy Newhill’s Harbour (20 km S), Frenchman Bay (25 km SE). Diving: former HMAS Perth was scuttled in 2001 as an artificial dive reef; Frenchman Bay; 25 km SE. West Cape Howe National Park: walking, fishing, swimming and hang-gliding; 30 km W. Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve: sanctuary for the noisy scrub bird, thought to be extinct but rediscovered in 1961; 40 km E. Tours: include sailing, wineries, eco-tours, 4WDriving, and national parks tours; contact visitor centre for more details.

TOWNS NEARBY: Mount Barker 45 km, Denmark 47 km, Cranbrook 83 km, Walpole 104 km, Kojonup 145 km

Augusta

Pop. 1072 Map ref. South-west Coast C11 | South-western WA B10 | Southern WA B11

Blackwood Ave; (08) 9758 0166; www.margaretriver.com

98.3 FM ABC South West Radio, 99.1 FM ABC Radio National

The town of Augusta lies in the south-west corner of Western Australia. The state’s third-oldest settlement sits high on the slopes of the Hardy Inlet, overlooking the mouth of the Blackwood River and the waters of Flinders Bay. Just beyond it lies Cape Leeuwin with its unforgettable signpost dividing the oceans: the Southern Ocean to the south and the Indian Ocean to the west.

Augusta Historical Museum Augusta’s difficult beginning in 1830 is documented in this collection of artefacts and photographs. An exhibit details the 1986 rescue of whales that beached themselves near the town. Blackwood Ave; (08) 9758 0465.

Crafters Croft: locally made handcrafts, jams, emu-oil products; Ellis St.

Augusta River Festival: Mar. Spring Flower Show: Sept/Oct.

The Colourpatch Take Away Cafe & Restaurant: fish and chips, homemade cafe treats; 98 Albany Tce; (08) 9758 1295.

Flinders Bay Caravan Park: 10 Albany Tce; (08) 9758 1380. Turner Caravan Park: 1 Blackwood Ave; (08) 9758 1593.

Leeuwin–Naturaliste National Park This park extends 120 km from Cape Naturaliste in the north to Cape Leeuwin in the south. Close to Augusta are 3 major attractions: Cape Leeuwin, Jewel Cave and Hamelin Bay. Cape Leeuwin (8 km SW) marks the most south-westerly point of Australia. Climb 176 steps to the top of the limestone lighthouse, mainland Australia’s tallest. Nearby is the Old Water Wheel, built in 1895 from timber that has since calcified, giving it the appearance of stone. Jewel Cave (8 km NW on Caves Rd) is renowned for its limestone formations, including the longest straw stalactite found in any tourist cave. At Hamelin Bay (18 km NW ) a windswept beach and the skeleton of an old jetty give little indication of the massive amounts of jarrah and karri that were once transported from here. In the heyday of the local timber industry, the port’s exposure to the treacherous north-west winds resulted in 11 wrecks. These now form the state’s most unusual Heritage Trail: the Hamelin Bay Wreck Trail, for experienced divers. See also Margaret River and Dunsborough.

The Landing Place: where the first European settlers landed in 1830; 3 km S. Whale Rescue Memorial: commemorates the 1986 rescue of beached pilot whales; 4 km S. Matthew Flinders Memorial: Flinders began mapping the Australian coastline from Cape Leeuwin in December 1801; 5 km S. Alexandra Bridge: picnic and camping spot with towering jarrah trees and beautiful wildflowers in season; 10 km N. Boranup Maze and Lookout: the maze offers a short walking track under trellis, while the lookout provides a picnic area with panoramic views towards the coast; 18 km N. Augusta–Busselton Heritage Trail: 100 km trail traces the history of the area through the pioneering Bussell and Molloy families, who settled in Augusta only to move further up the coast looking for suitable agricultural land; contact visitor centre for map. Blackwood River: meanders 500 km through wheatbelt plains and forested valleys to its broad estuary at Augusta. Secluded spots between Nannup and Alexandra Bridge offer tranquil camping, fishing, swimming and canoeing. Cruises: Blackwood River and Hardy Inlet. Marron in season: fishing licence required and available at the post office; Blackwood Ave. Whale-watching: charter boats and coastal vantage points offer sightings of migrating humpback whales (June–Aug) and southern right whales (June–Oct), plus pods of dolphins and fur seals; contact visitor centre for details.

TOWNS NEARBY: Margaret River 41 km, Nannup 67 km, Yallingup 75 km, Busselton 76 km, Dunsborough 77 km

Australind

Pop. 8716 Map ref. South-west Coast E3 | South-western WA C8 | Southern WA C9

Henton Cottage, cnr Old Coast and Paris rds; (08) 9796 0122.

95.7 Hot FM, 1224 AM ABC Radio National

Lying on the Leschenault Estuary and bordered by the Collie River, Australind offers a multitude of aquatic pleasures including fishing, crabbing, prawning, swimming, boating, sailing and windsurfing. The town’s unusual name is a contraction of Australia and India, coined by its founders in the hope of a prosperous trade in horses between the two countries.

St Nicholas Church: built in 1840, reputedly the smallest church in Australia at only 3.6 m wide and 8.2 m long; Paris Rd. Henton Cottage: early 1840s heritage building now houses the visitor centre and an art and craft gallery; Cnr Old Coast and Paris rds. Featured Wood Gallery: fine furniture and craft made from the local timbers of jarrah, she-oak, marri, banksia and blackbutt. Also includes a museum of Australian and American West history; Piggott Dr; (08) 9797 2411. Pioneer Memorial: site of the first settlers’ landing in 1840; Old Coast Rd. Cathedral Ave: scenic 2 km drive through arching paperbark trees with sightings of kangaroos and black swans, especially at sunset; off Old Coast Rd.

Carols in the Park: Dec.

Australind Tourist Park: Lot 9 Old Coast Rd; (08) 9725 1206.

Leschenault Inlet Offers recreational attractions from the simple pleasure of fishing from the Leschenault Inlet Fishing Groyne to picnicking, camping and bushwalking in the Peninsula Conservation Park. The park is a haven for native wildlife with over 60 species of birds recorded. Only walking or cycling is permitted in the park except for 4WD beach access from Buffalo Rd (1 km S). The Leschenault Waterway Discovery Centre has an interpretive gazebo with information on the estuary environment. Old Coast Rd; 2 km S.

Pioneer Cemetery: graves dating back to 1842 and beautiful wildflowers in season; Old Coast Rd; 2 km N. Binningup and Myalup: pleasant beach towns north of Leschenault. Australind– Bunbury Tourist Drive: coastal scenery, excellent crabbing and picnic spots; contact visitor centre for brochure.

TOWNS NEARBY: Bunbury 9 km, Harvey 28 km, Donnybrook 34 km, Collie 42 km, Busselton 54 km

Balingup

Pop. 443 Map ref. South-west Coast G6 | South-western WA C9 | Southern WA C10

Brockman St; (08) 9764 1818; www.balinguptourism.com.au

93.3 ABC Classic FM, 1044 AM ABC Local Radio

This small town, nestled in the Blackwood River Valley, is surrounded by rolling hills, forests and orchards. Balingup is renowned for its glowing summer sunsets, amazing autumn colours and misty winter mornings.

Birdwood Park Fruit Winery: unique award-winning fruit wines, chutneys, jams and fruits; Brockman St; (08) 9764 1172. Tinderbox: herbal and natural products; South Western Hwy. Old Cheese Factory Craft Centre: the largest art and craft centre in WA, including pottery and timber products; Balingup–Nannup Rd; (08) 9764 1018.

Opera in the Valley: Jan. Small Farm Field Day: festival and roadside scarecrows; Apr. Medieval Carnivale: Aug. Festival of Country Gardens: Oct/Nov. Balingup Jalbrook Concert: Nov.

Balingup Bronze Gallery and Cafe: healthy and tasty; Cnr South Western Hwy and Forrest St; (08) 9764 1843. Fre-Jac French Bakery: authentic patisserie, light lunches; The Packing Shed, South Western Hwy; (08) 9764 1983. Fre-Jac French Restaurant: traditional French cuisine; Forrest St; (08) 9764 1883. Taste of Balingup: gourmet local produce and cafe; Shop 1, 63 South Western Hwy; (08) 9764 1344.

Oakfield Country House Bed & Breakfast: 77 Bailey Heights; (08) 9764 1641.

Golden Valley Tree Park This 60 ha arboretum boasts a superb collection of exotic and native trees. Other attractions include a tree information gazebo, walk trails, lookout and the historic Golden Valley Homestead. Old Padbury Rd; 2 km S.

Jalbrook Alpacas and Knitwear Gallery: alpacas to feed and alpaca knitwear; accommodation also available; (08) 9764 1190; 2 km E. Lavender Farm: oil-producing lavender farm with open gardens, picnic area, art gallery and giftshop. Take a distillation tour; open Sept–Apr, Balingup–Nannup Rd; (08) 9764 1436; 2.5 km W. Balingup Heights Scenic Lookout: stunning views of town and orchards; off Balingup–Nannup Rd; 2.5 km W. Greenbushes: boasts WA’s first metal-producing mine (1888), still in production and now the world’s largest tantalum producer. The Discovery Centre has interactive displays and walking trails, and there is an excellent lookout at the mine; 10 km W. Heritage Country Cheese: cheese-producing factory with viewing window and tastings; 16 km W. Wineries: several in area; contact visitor centre for details. Balingup–Nannup Rd: enjoy wonderful scenery, interesting and historic landmarks and great marroning, fishing and picnic sites. Bibbulmun Track: sections of this trail pass through Balingup; see Albany.

TOWNS NEARBY: Bridgetown 24 km, Donnybrook 28 km, Nannup 29 km, Boyup Brook 38 km, Collie 50 km

Balladonia

Pop. 20 Map ref. Southern WA K7

Balladonia Roadhouse, Eyre Hwy; (08) 9039 3453; www.dundas.wa.gov.au

Balladonia lies on the Eyre Highway on the western edge of the Nullarbor Plain. Its closest towns are Norseman, 174 kilometres to the west, and Caiguna, 176 kilometres to the east. This arid desert shrubland is one of the world’s oldest landscapes, containing seashells millions of years old from when the area was ocean floor. Balladonia made world headlines in 1979 when space debris from NASA’s Skylab landed 40 kilometres east on Woorlba Station.

Cultural Heritage Museum Learn about the crash-landing of Skylab, local indigenous culture, early explorers, Afghan cameleers and other chapters in the area’s history. Balladonia Roadhouse, Eyre Hwy.

Balladonia Hotel Motel: light meals and hearty fare; Eyre Hwy; (08) 9039 3453.

90-Mile Straight Have your photo taken beside the signpost marking the western end of the longest straight stretch of road in Australia, which runs for 90 miles (146.6 km) between Balladonia and Caiguna. Begins 35 km E.

Newman Rocks: superb views from rocky outcrop, with picnic and camping areas on-site; 50 km W. Cape Arid National Park and Israelite Bay: great birdwatching and fishing; access via 4WD track, south of town; check track conditions at roadhouse.

TOWNS NEARBY: Norseman 174 km, Caiguna 176 km, Esperance 233 km, Cocklebiddy 236 km

Beverley

Pop. 850 Map ref. South-western WA E5 | Southern WA D7

Aeronautical Museum, 139 Vincent St; (08) 9646 1555; www.beverleywa.com

99.7 FM ABC News Radio, 531 AM ABC Local Radio

Beverley is a small town set on the banks of the Avon River 130 kilometres east of Perth. Its main street boasts some beautifully preserved buildings, representing Federation to Art Deco architectural styles. This farming community, while having long been associated with wheat and wool, also produces grapes, olives, emus, deer and yabbies.

Aeronautical Museum This museum presents a comprehensive display of early aviation in WA. The museum’s star attraction is the Silver Centenary, a biplane built between 1928 and 1930 by local man Selby Ford and his cousin Tom Shackles. Ford designed the plane in chalk on the floor where he worked. The plane first flew in July 1930, but was never licensed because of the lack of design blueprints. Vincent St.

Station Gallery: art exhibitions and sales in the Tudor-style (1889) railway station; Vincent St. Dead Finish Museum: the oldest building in town (1872) houses memorabilia and historic items from wooden cotton wheels to washing boards; open 11am–3pm Sun Mar–Nov or by appt through visitor centre; Hunt Rd.

Yabbie Races: Apr. Annual Quick Shear: Aug.

Freemasons Tavern: classic Australian pub; Cnr Vincent and Forrest sts; (08) 9646 1094.

Beverley Bed & Breakfast: 131 Forrest St; (08) 9646 0073.

Avondale Discovery Farm Avondale is an agricultural research station with displays of historic farming machinery and tools. The 1850s homestead is furnished in period style and set in traditional gardens. There is also an animal nursery, Clydesdale horses and a picnic area with barbecues and a children’s playground. A land-care education centre houses interactive displays. The farm hosts the Clydesdale and Vintage Day in June. Waterhatch Rd; (08) 9646 1004; 6 km W.

Brookton: attractions of this nearby town include the Old Police Station Museum and the Brookton Pioneer Heritage Trail, which highlights places significant to the local Aboriginal people; 32 km S. County Peak Lookout: spectacular views from the summit; 35 km SE. The Avon Ascent: take a self-drive tour of the Avon Valley; contact visitor centre for map.

TOWNS NEARBY: York 29 km, Pingelly 49 km, Northam 56 km, Mundaring 75 km, Toodyay 76 km

Boyup Brook

Pop. 531 Map ref. South-western WA D9 | Southern WA C10

Cnr Bridge and Abel sts; (08) 9765 1444; www.bbvisitor.mysouthwest.com.au

100.5 Hot FM, 1044 AM ABC Local Radio

Boyup Brook is on the tranquil Blackwood River in the heart of Western Australia’s grass-tree country. The town’s name is thought to derive from the Aboriginal word ‘booyup’, meaning ‘place of big stones’ or ‘place of much smoke’, which was given to the nearby Boyup Pool. Seasonal wildflowers are abundant during September and October.

Carnaby Beetle and Butterfly Collection Keith Carnaby was such a leading light in the field of entomology that beetles have been named after him. His collection of Jewel beetles, part of which is on display at the Boyup Brook Tourist Information Centre, is regarded as the best outside the British Museum of Natural History. Cnr Bridge and Abel sts.

Pioneers’ Museum: displays of historic agricultural, commercial and domestic equipment; open 2–5pm Mon, Wed, Fri or by appt; Jayes Rd. Sandakan War Memorial: honours 1500 Australian POWs sent to Sandakan to build an airfield for the Japanese; Sandakan Park. The Flax Mill: built during WW II for processing flax needed for war materials. At its peak it operated 24 hrs a day and employed over 400 people. A scale model of the mill can be viewed on-site, which is now the caravan park; off Barron St. Heritage walk: follows 23 plaques around town centre; self-guide pamphlet available from visitor centre. Bicentennial Walking Trail: pleasant walk around town and beside the Blackwood River.

Country Music Festival and Ute Muster: Feb. Blackwood Marathon: running, canoeing, horseriding, cycling and swimming a 58 km course to Bridgetown; Oct.

Chudacud Estate: versatile vineyard restaurant; Wade Rd; (08) 9764 4053.

Harvey Dickson’s Country Music Centre This entertainment shed is decorated wall-to-wall and floor-to-rafter with music memorabilia spanning 100 years. The ‘record room’ containing hundreds of records also has Elvis memorabilia. There is a music show in Sept and a rodeo in Oct, with basic bush camping facilities. Open by appt; Arthur River Rd; (08) 9765 1125; 5 km N.

Roo Gully Wildlife Sanctuary: for injured and orphaned Australian wildlife, with a special focus on raising unfurred marsupial young; 1 km N. Gregory Tree: remaining stump of a tree blazed by explorer Augustus Gregory in 1845; Gibbs Rd; 15 km NE. Norlup Homestead: built in 1874, this is one of the district’s first farms; to view contact (08) 9767 3034; off Norlup Rd; 27 km SE. Wineries: Scotts Brook Winery (20 km SE ) and Blackwood Crest Winery (at Kilikup, 40 km E); both open daily. Haddleton Flora Reserve: displays of brown and pink boronia in season. Not suitable for campers or caravans; 50 km NE. Boyup Brook flora drives: self-guide maps available from visitor centre.

TOWNS NEARBY: Bridgetown 27 km, Balingup 38 km, Manjimup 50 km, Collie 57 km, Donnybrook 60 km

Bremer Bay

Pop. 239 Map ref. Southern WA G10

Community Resource Centre and Library, Mary St; (08) 9837 4171; www.bremerbay.com

103.5 WA FM, 531 AM ABC Local Radio

Bremer Bay on the south coast is a wide expanse of crystal-clear blue water and striking white sand. The main beach, only a tenminute walk from the town, has a sheltered cove for swimming and fishing. Just north of Bremer Bay is the magnificent Fitzgerald River National Park with its four rivers, dramatic gorges, wide sand plains, rugged cliffs, pebbly beaches and spectacular displays of wildflowers between August and October.

Watersports: fishing, boating, swimming, surfing, waterskiing, scuba diving, bay cruises and seasonal whalewatching are the town’s main attractions. Rammed-earth buildings: the Bremer Bay Hotel/Motel on Frantom Way and Catholic Church on Mary St are excellent examples of rammed-earth construction.

Mount Barren Restaurant: local produce; Bremer Bay Resort, 1 Frantom Way; (08) 9837 4133.

Fitzgerald River National Park This huge 242 739 ha park, lying between Bremer Bay and Hopetoun to the east, is renowned for its scenery and flora. A staggering 1800 species of flowering plants have been recorded. Royal hakea, endemic to this region, is one of the most striking. Quaalup Homestead (1858), restored as a museum, offers meals and accommodation in the park. Point Ann has a viewing platform for whale-watching (southern rights, June–Oct). Campgrounds, barbecues and picnic areas available. 17 km N.

Wellstead Homestead Museum: the first residence in the area, now incorporating a gallery and museum with family heirlooms, historic farm equipment and vintage cars; Peppermint Grove, Wellstead Rd; (08) 9837 4448; 9 km SW. Surfing: nearby beaches include Native Dog Beach, Dillon Bay, Fosters Beach and Trigelow Beach; ask at visitor centre for directions.

TOWNS NEARBY: Ravensthorpe 109 km, Lake King 148 km, Albany 154 km, Mount Barker 160 km, Lake Grace 166 km

Bridgetown

Pop. 2321 Map ref. South-west Coast H8 | South-western WA D9 | Southern WA C10

154 Hampton St; (08) 9761 1740 or 1800 777 140; www.bridgetown.com.au

100.5 Hot FM, 1044 AM ABC Local Radio

Bridgetown is a picturesque timber town nestled among rolling hills on the banks of the Blackwood River. Crossing the river, Bridgetown boasts the longest wooden bridge in the state, made of the area’s famous jarrah. In addition to tourism, timber milling and mining (lithium, tantalum and tin) are now the largest industries in the area.

Brierley Jigsaw Gallery The only public jigsaw gallery in the Southern Hemisphere, Brierley has over 170 jigsaws ranging from the world’s smallest wooden puzzle to a huge 9000-piece jigsaw. A highlight is an 8000-piece jigsaw of the Sistine Chapel. Back of visitor centre, Hampton St.

Bridgedale: historic house owned by John Blechynden, one of the area’s first European settlers, constructed in 1862 of local timber and bricks made from riverbank clay; South Western Hwy. Memorial Park: picnic area with a giant chessboard, 3 ft high pieces for hire from visitor centre; South Western Hwy.

Blackwood River Park Markets: Sun mornings each fortnight. State Downriver Kayaking Championships: Aug. Blackwood Classic Powerboat Race: Sept. Blackwood Marathon: between Boyup Brook and Bridgetown; Oct. Blues at Bridgetown Festival: Nov. Festival of Country Gardens: Nov.

The Bridgetown Hotel: pub grub; 157 Hampton St; (08) 9761 1034. Bridgetown Pottery Tearooms & Gallery: home-style cooking; 81 Hampton St; (08) 9761 1038. Emporium Bistro: contemporary Australian; 145–151 Hampton St; (08) 9761 2018. Nelson’s of Bridgetown: country charm; 38 Hampton St; (08) 9761 1641 or 1800 635 565.

Break of Day Homestay: Lot 751 Walter Rd; (08) 9761 1284. Ford House Retreat: Eedle Tce; (08) 9761 1816. Tweed Valley Lodge: 171 Tweed Rd; (08) 9761 2828. Woodlands of Bridgetown: South Western Hwy; (08) 9761 2125. g

The Cidery Discover the history of Bridgetown’s apple industry and sample fresh juice, cider or award-winning beers. The orchard contains over 80 varieties of apple. Closed Tues; Cnr Forrest St and Gifford Rd; (08) 9761 2204; 2 km N.

Geegelup Heritage Trail: 52 km walk retraces history of agriculture, mining and timber in the region. It starts at Blackwood River Park. Scenic drives: choose from 8 scenic drives in the district through green hills, orchards and valleys into karri and jarrah timber country; self-guide maps available at visitor centre. Excellent views: Sutton’s Lookout, off Phillips St and Hester Hill, 5 km N. Bridgetown Jarrah Park: ideal place for a picnic or bushwalk. The Tree Fallers and Shield Tree trails commemorate the early timber history of the town; Brockman Hwy; 20 km W. Karri Gully: bushwalking and picnicking; 20 km W.

TOWNS NEARBY: Balingup 24 km, Boyup Brook 27 km, Manjimup 31 km, Nannup 34 km, Donnybrook 52 km

Bunbury

Pop. 67 643 Map ref. South-west Coast D4 | South-western WA C8 | Southern WA C9

Old Railway Station, Carmody Pl; (08) 9792 7205 or 1800 286 287; www.visitbunbury.com.au

95.7 Radio West Hot FM, 684 AM ABC Local Radio

Bunbury is known as the ‘city of three waters’, surrounded by the Indian Ocean, Koombana Bay and the Leschenault Inlet. This is a water-lover’s paradise with fishing, crabbing, diving, white sandy beaches, sailing and kayaking. Bunbury is also known for its wild dolphins that come close to the beach at Koombana Bay. Bunbury was settled by Europeans in 1838 and the Koombana Bay whalers were a source of initial prosperity. Today the port is the main outlet for the timber and mining industries.

Dolphin Discovery Centre Wild bottlenose dolphins regularly visit Koombana Bay. The centre has interpretative displays on dolphins and other marine life and offers visitors the chance to swim with dolphins under ranger guidance. A 360-degree Dolphinarium, opened in 2011, is the first of its kind in Australia. Dolphin visits usually occur in the mornings; however, times and days of visits are unpredictable. If you prefer not to get wet, take a dolphin-spotting cruise on the bay. Open daily 8am–4pm Oct–May, 9am–2pm June–Sept; 447 Koombana Dr; (08) 9791 3088.

Historic buildings: many date back to the early decades of the settlement, including the 1865 Rose Hotel; Cnr Victoria and Stephen sts; contact visitor centre for details. King Cottage: built in 1880 and one of the oldest buildings in Bunbury, this cottage was built by Henry King using homemade bricks. It now displays items of domestic life from the early 20th century; open daily 2–4pm; 77 Forrest Ave; (08) 9721 7546. Sir John Forrest Monument: born in Picton on the outskirts of Bunbury in 1847, Sir John Forrest was elected the first Premier of WA in 1890 and entered Federal Parliament in 1901; Cnr Victoria and Stephen sts. Victoria St: a ‘cappuccino strip’ of sidewalk cafes and restaurants. Bunbury Regional Art Galleries: built in 1887, formerly a convent for the Sisters of Mercy and now the largest art gallery in the South-West; 64 Wittenoom St; (08) 9721 8616; open 10am–4pm daily. Miniature Railway Track: take a ride on this 800 m track through the trees at Forest Park; 3rd Sun of each month; Blair St. Lookouts: Boulter’s Heights, Haig Cres and Marlston Hill; Apex Dr. Lighthouse: painted in black-and-white check, this striking landmark has a lookout at the base; end of Ocean Dr. Basaltic rock: formed by volcanic lava flow 150 million years ago; foreshore at end of Clifton St, off Ocean Dr. Mangrove boardwalk: 200 m elevated boardwalk lets you view the southern-most mangrove colony in WA, estimated to be 20 000 years old; Koombana Dr. Big Swamp Wildlife Park: handfeed kangaroos, see bettongs, wombats, swamp wallabies and more, and enjoy the South-West’s largest walk-through aviary with 60 species of native birds; Prince Phillip Dr; (08) 9721 8380; open 10am–5pm daily. Kayak tours: take to the waters of Koombana Bay, the Leschenault Estuary or the Collie River; contact Dekked Out Adventures, (08) 9796 1000. Heritage trail: 12 km walk from the Old Railway Station; contact visitor centre for brochure.

Viva Bunbury: Latin-themed street party as part of racing carnival; Mar. Groovin The Moo: music festival; May. The Funtabulous Bunbury Kidsfest: Sept/Oct. Geographe Crush: food and wine festival; Nov.

Alexanders Restaurant: well-priced cuisine using local produce; Qualify Hotel Lord Forrest, 20 Symmons St; (08) 9726 5777. Aristos Waterfront: casual seafood; 2/15 Bonnefoi Blvd; (08) 9791 6477. Boardwalk Bar & Bistro: local seafood; The Parade Hotel, 1 Austral Pde; (08) 9721 2933. Mojo’s Restaurant: contemporary Australian; Grand Cinema Complex, Victoria St; (08) 9792 5900. Vat 2: harbour-side dining; 2 Jetty Rd; (08) 9791 8833. Carlaminda Wines Bistro: French fare; Carlaminda Wines, Richards Rd, Ferguson Valley; (08) 9728 3002. Hackersley: seasonal menu; Ferguson Rd, Ferguson Valley; (08) 9728 3033. Casellas: award-winning tapas in a waterfront setting; 1 Bonnefoi Blvd; (08) 9721 6075. L’amour De La Femme: top-notch French cuisine; 18 Wittenoom St; (08) 9791 5504. Danny’s Restaurant: overlooking Guppy Park; 10 Victoria St; (08) 9721 3866.

Discovery Holiday Parks – Bunbury: Cnr Bussell Hwy and Washington Ave; (08) 9795 7100. Bunbury Glade Caravan Park: Timperley Rd, South Bunbury; (08) 9721 3800. Discovery Holiday Parks – Koombana Bay: Koombana Dr; (08) 9791 3900.

St Marks Anglican Church: built in 1842, this is the second oldest church in WA. The churchyard contains the graves of many early Bunbury settlers; 5 km SE at Picton. Featured Wood Gallery: craft and furniture made by local artisans; 12 Piggott Dr, Australind; (08) 9797 2411; 10 km N. Lena Dive Wreck: apprehended by the navy in 2002 for illegal fishing, the Lena was sunk 3 nautical miles from Bunbury as a dive wreck; suitable for snorkelling and diving for all levels of experience; dive tours include Octopus Garden Marine Charters and Coastal Water Dive; contact visitor centre for details. South West Gemstone Museum: over 2000 gemstones; Lot 5 Bussell Hwy, Gelorup; (08) 9795 7143; 12 km S. Wineries: at the heart of the Geographe Wine Region, many in the area offer cellar-door tastings, including Willow Bridge Estate (20 km E) in the picturesque Ferguson Valley and Capel Vale Wines (27 km S); contact visitor centre for details. Abseiling tours: on the quarry face of the Wellington Dam; contact visitor centre for details. Scenic flights: over Bunbury and surrounds.

TOWNS NEARBY: Australind 9 km, Donnybrook 32 km, Harvey 36 km, Busselton 45 km, Collie 48 km

[ VIEW OF BUNBURY FROM LESCHENAULT INLET ]

Broome

Pop. 11 547 Map ref. Northern WA H8 | Kimberley A11

Cnr Short and Hamersley sts; (08) 9195 2200 or 1800 883 777; www.broomevisitorcentre.com.au

Spirit 102.9FM, 101.3 WA FM, 675 AM ABC Local Radio

Broome is distinguished by its pearling history, cosmopolitan character and startling natural assets including white sandy beaches, turquoise water and red soils. The discovery of pearling grounds off the coast in the 1880s led to the foundation of the Broome township in 1883. A melting pot of nationalities flocked to its shores in the hope of making a fortune. Japanese, Malays and Koepangers joined the Aboriginal pearl divers, while the Chinese became the shopkeepers in town. By 1910 Broome was the world’s leading pearling centre. In those early, heady days, over 400 pearling luggers operated out of Broome. The industry suffered when world markets collapsed in 1914, but stabilised in the 1970s as cultured-pearl farming developed. Today remnants of Broome’s exotic past are everywhere, with the town’s multicultural society ensuring a dynamic array of cultural influences. Broome’s beaches are ideal for swimming and there is good fishing year-round.

Pearl Luggers Experience Broome’s pearling heritage by visiting 2 restored pearling luggers in Chinatown. Tours daily. Dampier Tce; (08) 9192 2059.

Japanese Cemetery The largest Japanese cemetery in Australia contains the graves of over 900 Japanese pearl divers, dating back to 1896. This is a sobering reminder of the perils of the early pearling days when the bends, cyclones and sharks claimed many lives. Cnr Port Dr and Savannah Way.

Staircase to the Moon This beautiful optical illusion is caused by a full moon reflecting off the exposed mudflats of Roebuck Bay at extremely low tides. Town Beach; 3 nights monthly from Mar–Oct; check dates and times at visitor centre.

Chinatown: an extraordinary mix of colonial and Asian influences, Chinatown was once the bustling hub of Broome where pearl sheds, billiard saloons and Chinese eateries flourished; now it is home to some of the world’s finest pearl showrooms.

Buildings on Hamersley St: distinctive Broome-style architecture including the courthouse, made of teak inside and corrugated iron outside; Captain Gregory’s House, a classic old pearling master’s house, built in 1915, now an art gallery; and Matso’s Cafe, once the Union Bank Building. Historical Museum: pearling display and collection of photographs and literature on Broome’s past; Robinson St. Bedford Park: war memorial, replica of explorer William Dampier’s sea chest and an old train coach; Hamersley St. Shell House: one of the largest shell collections in Australia; Dampier Tce. Sun Pictures: the world’s oldest operating outdoor cinema, opened in 1916; Carnarvon St. Sisters of St John of God Convent: built in 1926 by a Japanese shipbuilder using traditional methods that emphasise the external framing of the building; Cnr Barker and Weld sts. Deep Water Jetty: good for fishing; Port Dr. Heritage trail: 2 km walk introduces places of interest; contact visitor centre for self-guide pamphlet.

[ CAMEL RIDE ON CABLE BEACH ]

Courthouse Markets: Hamersley St; Sat and Sun mornings Apr–Oct, Sat only Nov–Mar. Town Beach Markets: Robinson St; 1st 2 nights of the Staircase to the Moon; check with visitor centre for dates and times. Race Round: horseracing; June–Aug. Opera Under the Stars: Aug. Shinju Matsuri: Festival of the Pearl, recalls Broome’s heyday and includes Dragon Boat Regatta; Aug/Sept. Mango Festival: Nov.

Club Restaurant: fine dining; Cable Beach Club Resort &Spa, Cable Beach Rd, Cable Beach; (08) 9192 0400 or 1800 199 099. Matso’s Broome Brewery: laid-back brewery; 60 Hamersley St; (08) 9193 5811. The Old Zoo Cafe: alfresco cafe; 2 Challenor Dr, Cable Beach; (08) 9193 6200. Wharf Restaurant: casual seafood; Port of Pearls House, 401 Port Dr; (08) 9192 5800.

Broome Vacation Village: 122 Port Dr; (08) 9192 1057. Broome Town B&B Boutique Accommodation: 15 Stewart St; (08) 9192 2006. Ochre Moon B&B: 13 Godwit Cres; (08) 9192 7109. Reflections B&B: 69 Demco Dr; (08) 9192 6610. Roebuck Bay Caravan Park: 91 Walcott St; (08) 9192 1366. Cable Beach Caravan Park: 8 Millington Rd, Cable Beach; (08) 9192 2066. Palm Grove Caravan Resort: Cnr Murray and Cable Beach rds, Cable Beach; (08) 9192 3336.

Cable Beach With its 22 km of pristine white sands fringing the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, Cable Beach is one of the most stunning beaches in the world. Every day the beach is washed clean by high tides ranging from 4 m to 10 m. It takes its name from the telegraph cable laid between Broome and Java in 1889. The $55 million Cable Beach Resort, which fronts onto the beach, is a popular tourist destination. While you’re here, why not do that quintessential Broome activity and ride a camel along this famous beach? Contact visitor centre for details. 7 km NW.

Gantheaume Point Dinosaur footprints believed to be 130 million years old can be seen at very low tide. A plaster cast of the tracks has been embedded at the top of the cliff. Nearby, view the almost-perfectly round Anastasia’s Pool, built by a lighthouse keeper for his wife. 5 km NE.

Crocodile Park: home to some of Australia’s biggest crocodiles; Cable Beach Rd; 7 km NW. Reddell Beach: enjoy the dramatic sight of Broome’s distinctive red soils, known as ‘pindan’, meeting white sands and brilliant blue water; 7 km SW. Buccaneer Rock: at entrance to Dampier Creek, this landmark commemorates Captain William Dampier and HMAS Roebuck; 15 km E.

Broome Bird Observatory: see some of the 310 species of migratory wader birds that arrive each year from Siberia; 17 km E. Willie Creek Pearl Farm: the Kimberley’s only pearl farm open to the public, with daily tours; (08) 9192 0000; 35 km N. Dampier Peninsula: this remote area north of Broome boasts unspoiled coastline (4WD access only). Record-breaking game fish have been caught in the surrounding waters. Charters and tours leave from Dampier. The Sacred Heart Church at Beagle Bay (118 km NE) was built by Pallotine monks in 1917 and boasts a magnificent pearl-shell altar. Lombadina (200 km NE) is a former mission now home to an Aboriginal community that offers sightseeing, fishing and mudcrabbing tours; contact (08) 9192 4936. On the eastern side of the peninsula is Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, the oldest Australian and family-owned pearl farm, which offers 1-hour and 1-day tours; contact (08) 9192 4283. Cape Leveque, at the north of the peninsula, is well known for its pristine beaches and rugged pindan cliffs (220 km NE). Buccaneer Archipelago: in Broome you can arrange scenic flights over this magnificent landscape that stretches north-east of the Dampier Peninsula. Also known as the Thousand Islands, this is a dramatic coastal area of rugged red cliffs, spectacular waterfalls and secluded white sandy beaches. Here you’ll find whirlpools created by massive 11 m tides and the amazing horizontal twoway waterfall of Talbot Bay. Hovercraft Spirit of Broome: tours of Roebuck Bay; details from visitor centre.

TOWNS NEARBY: Derby 165 km

Busselton

Pop. 15 385 Map ref. South-west Coast C6 | South-western WA B9 | Southern WA B10

38 Peel Tce; (08) 9752 1288; www.geographebay.com

96.5 FM Western Tourist Radio, 684 AM ABC Local Radio

First settled by Europeans in 1834, Busselton is one of the oldest towns in Western Australia. It is situated on the shores of Geographe Bay and the picturesque Vasse River. Sheltered from most prevailing winds, the tranquil waters of the bay are an aquatic playground edged with 30 kilometres of white sand beaches. Over the past three decades, the traditional industries of timber, dairying, cattle and sheep have been joined by grape-growing and winemaking. Fishing is also important, particularly crayfish and salmon in season. In spring, the wildflowers are magnificent.

Busselton Jetty The longest timber jetty in the Southern Hemisphere was built over a 95-year period, beginning in 1865, principally for the export of timber. Over 5000 ships from all over the world docked here through the ages of sail, steam and diesel, before the port closed in 1972. The jetty stretches a graceful 1.8 km into Geographe Bay and has always been a popular spot for fishing, snorkelling and scuba diving because of the variety of marine life. Today you can take a small tourist train from one end to the other. An Interpretive Centre at the base of the jetty displays historical and environmental exhibits. At the seaward end is an Underwater Observatory featuring an observation chamber with viewing windows 8 m beneath the surface revealing vividly coloured corals, sponges and fish. Tours are available, bookings essential. End of Queen St.

Ballarat Engine: first steam locomotive in WA; Pries Ave. St Mary’s Anglican Church: built in 1844 of limestone and jarrah, with a she-oak shingle roof. The churchyard has many pioneer graves, including John Garrett Bussell’s, after whom Busselton was named; Peel Tce. Nautical Lady Entertainment World: family fun park with giant water slide, flying fox, minigolf, skate park, racing cars, lookout tower and nautical museum; on beachfront at end of Queen St; (08) 9752 3473. Old Courthouse: restored gaol cells and arts complex; Queen St. Busselton Historical Museum: originally a creamery, now houses historic domestic equipment; closed Tues; Peel Tce. Vasse River Parkland: barbecue facilities; Peel Tce.

Markets: Barnard Park, 1st and 3rd Sat each month; Railway Building Park, Causeway Rd, 2nd and 4th Sun each month. Southbound: music festival; Jan. Festival of Busselton: Jan. Beach Festival: Jan. Busselton Jetty Swim: Feb. Geographe Bay Race Week: yachting; Feb. Bluewater Fishing Classic: Mar. Great Escapade: cycling; Mar. Busselton Agricultural Show: one of the oldest and largest country shows in WA; Oct/Nov. Smell the Roses, Taste the Wine: Nov. Ironman Western Australia Triathlon: Dec.

Newtown House Restaurant & Accomodation: fine dining; 737 Bussell Hwy; (08) 9755 4485. The Equinox: beachside dining; Queen St; (08) 9752 4641. The Goose: jetty-side longtime favourite; Geographe Bay Rd; (08) 9754 7700. Vasse Bar Cafe: funky Mediterranean; 44 Queen St; (08) 9754 8560.

Amblin Caravan & Camping Park: 583 Bussell Hwy; (08) 9755 4079. Baudins of Busselton B&B: 87 Bussell Hwy; (08) 9751 5576. Four Seasons Holiday Resort: 585 Caves Rd; (08) 9755 4082. Inn the Tuarts Guest Lodge: 19 Rushleigh Rd; (08) 9754 1444. Kookaburra Caravan Park: 66 Marine Tce; (08) 9752 1516. Sojourn on Gale: 59 Gale St; (08) 9751 3381. Geographe Bay Holiday Park: 525 Bussell Hwy, Broadwater; (08) 9752 4396. Mandalay Holiday Resort and Tourist Park: Mandalay Entrance (off Bussell Hwy at Lockhart St), Broadwater; (08) 9752 1328. Peppermint Park Eco Village: 97 Caves Rd, Abbey; (08) 9755 4241.

Tuart Forest National Park The majestic tuart tree grows only on coastal limestone 200 km either side of Perth. Known locally as the Ludlow Tuart Forest, this 2049 ha park protects the largest natural tuart forest in the world. It also has the tallest and largest specimens of tuart trees on the Swan Coastal Plain, up to 33 m high and 10 m wide. Enjoy scenic drives, forest walks and picnics in a magnificent setting. 12 km SE.

Wonnerup House: built in 1859, now a National Trust museum and fine example of colonial architecture, furnished in period style; 10 km N. Bunyip Craft Centre: Ludlow; 15 km E. Wineries: numerous vineyards and wineries in the area. Many are open for cellar-door tastings; contact visitor centre for map. Augusta–Busselton Heritage Trail: contact visitor centre for map.

TOWNS NEARBY: Dunsborough 22 km, Yallingup 29 km, Margaret River 42 km, Donnybrook 45 km, Bunbury 45 km

Caiguna

Pop. 10 Map ref. Southern WA M7

Caiguna Roadhouse, Eyre Hwy; (08) 9039 3459; www.dundas.wa.gov.au

The small community of Caiguna, on the Nullarbor Plain, consists of a 24-hour roadhouse, caravan park, motel, restaurant and service station. The nearest towns are Balladonia, 182 kilometres west, and Cocklebiddy, 65 kilometres east. To the south is the coastal wilderness of Nuytsland Nature Reserve. From immediately east of Caiguna until Border Village, locals operate on Central Western Time, 45 minutes ahead of the rest of Western Australia.

John Baxter Memorial In 1841, the explorer John Baxter, together with an Aboriginal guide known as Wylie and 2 other unnamed Aboriginal men, accompanied Edward John Eyre on his epic journey across the Nullarbor Plain. The party left Fowlers Bay in SA on 25 Feb and reached the site of modern-day Eucla on 12 Mar. Later, the 2 unnamed Aboriginal men killed Baxter and, taking most of the supplies, fled into the desert. Eyre and Wylie walked for another month and eventually reached Thistle Cove (near Esperance), where they were rescued by a French whaler. The Baxter memorial is on the Baxter Cliffs overlooking the Great Australian Bight; 4WD access only. 38 km S.

90-Mile Straight: have your photo taken beside the signpost marking the eastern end of the longest straight stretch of road in Australia, which runs for 90 miles (146.6 km) between Caiguna and a point east of Balladonia; 4 km W. Caiguna Blowhole: a hole in the flat limestone landscape where the earth seemingly breathes in and out; 5 km W.

TOWNS NEARBY: Cocklebiddy 64 km, Madura 151 km, Balladonia 176 km

Carnamah

Pop. 358 Map ref. Southern WA B4

Council offices, Macpherson St; (08) 9951 7000; www.carnamah.wa.gov.au

101.9 WA FM, 612 AM ABC Radio National

Carnamah is a typical wheat-belt town servicing the surrounding wheat and sheep properties. From late July through to December the shire of Carnamah and the rest of the wheat belt blossoms into a wildflower wonderland. This is one of Western Australia’s richest areas of flowering plants, with more than 600 species.

Historical Society Museum: displays historic domestic equipment and old farm machinery; Macpherson St.

North Midlands Agricultural Show, Rodeo and Ute Parade: Sept.

Tathra National Park This park, with its diverse range of spring wildflowers, is named after the Nyungar word for ‘beautiful place’. 25 km SW.

Macpherson’s Homestead: an excellent example of pioneering architecture (1869), once the home of Duncan Macpherson, the first settler in the area; open by appt; Bunjil Rd; (08) 9951 1690; 1 km E. Yarra Yarra Lake: this salt lake changes from pink in summer to deep blue in winter. View it from the Lakes Lookout; 16 km S. Eneabba: spectacular wildflowers surround this mining town; 74 km W. Lake Indoon: a freshwater lake popular for sailing, boating, camping, picnics and barbecues (swimming is forbidden due to poor water quality); 85 km W.

TOWNS NEARBY: Morawa 54 km, Dongara–Denison 104 km, Moora 106 km, Jurien Bay 107 km, Cervantes 119 km

Carnarvon

Pop. 5283 Map ref. Central-western WA B7 | Shark Bay C2

Civic Centre, 21 Robinson St; (08) 9941 1146; www.carnarvon.org.au

99.7 Hot Hits FM, 846 AM ABC Local Radio

Carnarvon is a large coastal town at the mouth of the Gascoyne River. The river and the fertile red earth surrounding it are crucial to the town’s thriving agricultural industry. Plantations stretching for 15 kilometres along the riverbanks draw water from the aquifer of the river basin to grow a host of tropical fruits such as bananas, mangoes, avocados, pineapples, pawpaws and melons. Carnarvon gained national prominence when a NASA tracking station operated nearby at Browns Range from 1964 to 1974.

Robinson St In 1876 the region’s founding fathers, Aubrey Brown, John Monger and C. S. Brockman, overlanded 4000 sheep from York. Carnarvon was gazetted in 1883 and developed into the centre of an efficient wool-producing area. Camel teams, driven by Afghan camel drivers, brought the wool to Carnarvon from the outlying sheep stations. This is the reason for the extraordinary width of the town’s main street, which, at 40 m, gave the camel teams enough room to turn around.

Pioneer Park: good picnic spot; Olivia Tce. Murals: up to 15 buildings in the town, including the Civic Centre, are adorned with murals painted by local artists. Heritage walking trail: 20 historic landmarks around the town; contact visitor centre for map.Gwoonwardu Mia The Gascoyne Aboriginal Heritage and Cultural Centre celebrates the history and culture of the 5 indigenous language groups of the Gascoyne region. It houses an exhibition gallery, local indigenous art and crafts for sale, and a cafe that serves lunches with a regional bush tucker flavour. Gascoyne Food Trail Follow this self-drive tour of the plantations, orchards and fresh produce outlets in Carnarvon; contact visitor centre for brochure. Bumbak’s Plantation Tours Learn just what it takes to grow bananas, grapes, and mangoes at one of the oldest family-run plantations in Carnarvon. The shop sells delicious homemade preserves, jams, fruit ice-creams and other treats. 449 North River Rd, tours at 10am daily.

Gascoyne Growers Markets and Courtyard Markets: Civic Centre; Sat mornings May–Oct. Fremantle–Carnarvon Bluewater Classic: odd-numbered years; Apr. Carnafin: fishing competition, May/June. Taste the Gascoyne: Aug/Sept. Carnarvon Festival: Aug/Sept. Carnarvon Cup: Sept. Kickstarters Gascoyne Dash: Oct.

[ POINT QUOBBA ]

Pickles Point Seafood & Boatyard: the freshest seafood lunch in town; Harbour Rd, South Carnarvon; (08) 9941 4078. Sails Restaurant: international menu with alfresco dining option; Best Western Hospitality Inn, 6 West St; (08) 9941 1600. Water’s Edge Restaurant: à la carte menu overlooking the Fascine; The Carnarvon Hotel, 121 Olivia Tce; (08) 9941 1181.

Coral Coast Tourist Park: 108 Robinson St; (08) 9941 1438. Carnarvon Capricorn Holiday Park: 1042 North West Coastal Hwy, Brown Range; (08) 9941 8153. Outback Oasis Caravan Park: 49 Wise St, East Carnarvon; (08) 9941 1439. Wintersun Caravan and Tourist Park: 546 Robinson St, Kingsford; (08) 9941 8150.

Carnarvon Heritage Precinct On Babbage Island, and connected to the township by a causeway, this heritage precinct incorporates the One Mile Jetty. Built in 1897, this is the longest jetty in WA’s north, stretching for 1493 m into the Indian Ocean. It offers excellent fishing and a jetty train runs its length. Other attractions include the Lighthouse Keeper’s Cottage museum, prawning factory at the old whaling station (tours in season, check times at visitor centre) and Pelican Point, for picnics, swimming and fishing.

Blowholes Jets of water shoot up to 20 m in the air after being forced through holes in the coastal rock. When you arrive at the Blowholes, you are greeted by a huge sign declaring ‘KING WAVES KILL’ – a cautionary reminder that this picturesque coastline has claimed the lives of over 30 people in freak waves. 73 km N. Nearby, a sheltered lagoon provides good swimming and snorkeling (1 km S). A further 7 km north of the blowholes is a cairn commemorating the loss of HMAS Sydney in 1941.

‘The Big Dish’: a huge 29 m wide reflector, part of the old NASA station, with views of town and plantations from the base; 8 km E. Bibbawarra Artesian Bore: hot water surfaces at 65° C and picnic area nearby; 16 km N. Bibbawarra Trough: 180 m long, believed to be the longest in the Southern Hemisphere; adjacent to bore; 16 km N. Miaboolya Beach: good fishing, crabbing and swimming; 22 km N. Rocky Pool: picnic area and deep billabong ideal for swimming (after rains) and wildlife watching; Gascoyne Rd; 55 km E. Red Bluff: world-renowned surfing spot with waves 1–6 m, depending on the time of the year; 143 km N. Mt Augustus: considered the biggest rock in the world, twice the size of Uluru. It is known as Burringurrah to the local Aboriginal people. This ‘monocline’ is over 1750 million years old, cloaked in thick scrub, and offers many interesting rock formations, caves and Indigenous rock art. Camping and powered sites are available at Mt Augustus Outback Tourist Resort; (08) 9943 0527; road conditions vary; 450 km E; see also Gascoyne Junction. Fishing: excellent fishing for snapper or groper and game fishing for marlin or sailfish; charter boats available from Williams St. Also excellent fishing off One Mile Jetty.

TOWNS NEARBY: Denham 116 km, Gascoyne Junction 158 km, Coral Bay 193 km

Cervantes

Pop. 506 Map ref. South-western WA A2 | Southern WA A5

Pinnacles Visitor Centre, Cadiz St; (08) 9652 7672 or 1800 610 660; www.visitpinnaclescountry.com.au

99.9 WA FM, 612 AM ABC Radio National

This small but thriving fishing town was established in 1962 and named after the American whaling ship Cervantes, which sank off the coast in 1844. The town’s fishing fleet nearly doubles in rock lobster season, and in spring the town is surrounded by spectacular displays of wildflowers with vistas of wattles stretching from horizon to horizon. Not far from Cervantes is one of Australia’s best-known landscapes, the Pinnacles Desert, lying at the heart of Nambung National Park.

Pinnacle Wildflowers: displays of native WA flora, dried flower arrangements, souvenirs. Flowers are visible year-round, but at their peak in Aug and Sept; Bradley Loop. Thirsty Point: lookout has superb views of the bay and Cervantes islands. A trail connects the lookouts between Thirsty Point and Hansen Bay. Popular in wildflower season; off Seville St.

The Europa Anchor Restaurant: local seafood; Cervantes Pinnacles Motel, 7 Aragon St; (08) 9652 7145. Ronsard Bay Tavern: bistro dining; 219 Cadiz St; (08) 9652 7009.

Cervantes Pinnacles Beachfront Caravan Park: 35 Aragon St; (08) 9652 7060.

Nambung National Park In the Pinnacles Desert, thousands of limestone pillars rise out of a stark landscape of yellow sand, reaching over 3 m in places. They are the eroded remnants of a bed of limestone, created from sea-shells breaking down into lime-rich sands. See formations like the Indian Chief, Garden Wall and Milk Bottles. The loop drive is one-way and not suitable for caravans. The park allows day visits only; tours departing morning and sunset can be arranged at the visitor centre. 17 km S.

Lake Thetis Stromatolites: one of WA’s 6 known locations of stromatolites, the oldest living organism on earth; 5 km S. Kangaroo Point: good picnic spot; 9 km S. Hangover Bay: a stunning white sandy beach ideal for swimming, snorkelling, windsurfing and surfing; 13 km S.

TOWNS NEARBY: Jurien Bay 21 km, Moora 91 km, Carnamah 119 km, New Norcia 122 km, Gingin 124 km

Cocklebiddy

Pop. 75 Map ref. Southern WA M6

Cocklebiddy Roadhouse; (08) 9039 3462.

107.3 FM ABC Radio National, 648 AM ABC Local Radio

This tiny settlement, comprising a roadhouse with motel units, caravan sites and camping facilities, lies between Madura and Caiguna on the Nullarbor Plain. Nuytsland Nature Reserve extends southwards, a 400 000-hectare strip running along the Great Australian Bight. Locals operate on Central Western Time, 45 minutes ahead of the rest of the state.

Eyre Bird Observatory Housed in the fully restored 1897 Eyre Telegraph Station, Australia’s first bird observatory offers birdwatching, bushwalking and beachcombing in Nuytsland Nature Reserve. Over 240 species of birds have been recorded at Eyre, including Major Mitchell cockatoos, brush bronzewings, honeyeaters and mallee fowl. It is near the site where Edward John Eyre found water and rested during his Nullarbor journey in February 1841. Courses, tours and whale-watching (June–Oct) as well as accommodation can be arranged on (08) 9039 3450. 4WD access only. 50 km SE.

Chapel Rock: picnic area; 4 km E. Twilight Cove: fishing and whale-watching spot with views of 70 m high limestone cliffs overlooking the Great Australian Bight; 4WD access only; 32 km S.

TOWNS NEARBY: Caiguna 64 km, Madura 89 km, Balladonia 236 km

Collie

Pop. 7084 Map ref. South-west Coast G3 | South-western WA D8 | Southern WA C9

Old Collie Post Office, 63 Throssell St; (08) 9734 2051; www.collierivervalley.org.au

95.7 Hot FM, 684 AM ABC Local Radio

Collie is Western Australia’s only coalmining town. The surrounding area was first explored in 1829 when Captain James Stirling led a reconnaissance party to the land south of Perth. The region was originally considered ideal for timber production and as pasturelands. However, the discovery of coal along the Collie River in 1883 changed the region’s fortunes. In dense jarrah forest, near the winding Collie River, the town has many parks and gardens. The drive into Collie on the Coalfields Highway along the top of the Darling Scarp offers spectacular views of the surrounding forests, rolling hills and farms.

Tourist Coal Mine Step back in time and gain an insight into the mining industry and the working conditions in underground mines. This replica mine was constructed in 1983 to commemorate the 100-year anniversary of coal discovery. Tours by appt only; contact visitor centre for details. Throssell St.

Coalfields Museum: displays of historic photographs, coalmining equipment, rocks and minerals, woodwork by local miner Fred Kohler, a doll house and art housed in the historic Roads Board building; Throssell St. Collie Railway Station: the rebuilt station houses railway memorabilia, a scale model of the Collie township with model trains, tearooms and a giftshop; Throssell St. Soldiers’ Park: bordering the Collie River, features include a war memorial, rose garden, gazebo and childrens’ playground; Steere St. All Saints Anglican Church: impressive Norman-style church distinctive for its unusual stained-glass windows, extensive use of jarrah timbers and elaborate mural, which in 1922 took renowned stage artist Philip Goatcher 8 months to complete. Tours by appt; contact visitor centre; Venn St. Old Collie Goods

Shed: restoration of rolling stock; Forrest St. Central Precinct Historic Walk: self-guide walk of historic buildings; contact visitor centre for map. Collie River Walk: pleasant walk along riverbank; contact visitor centre for map.

Market: Old Goods Shed, Forrest St; 1st and 3rd Sun each month (except winter). Collie Rock and Coal Music Festival: Mar. Collie–Donnybrook Cycle Race: Aug. Collie River Valley Marathon: Sept. Griffin Festival: Sept.

The Ridge: contemporary menu; Collie Ridge Motel, 185 Throssell St; (08) 9734 5000.

Wellington National Park Covering 4000 ha, this park is characterised by jarrah forest. Picnic, swim, canoe or camp at Honeymoon Pool or Potters Gorge, or go rafting in winter on the rapids below the Wellington Dam wall (note that work is being carried out on the wall until 2010, when the Quarry picnic area will reopen). 18 km W.

Minninup Pool: where the Collie River is at its widest, ideal for swimming, canoeing or picnicking; off Mungalup Rd; 3 km S. Stockton Lake: camping and waterskiing; 8 km E. Brew 42: microbrewery producing 6 different beers, especially traditional Irish and English ales. Tastings and sales Thurs–Sun or by arrangement; Allanson; (08) 97344784; 8km W. Harris Dam: beautiful picnic area; 14 km N. Collie River Scenic Drive: views of jarrah forest and wildflowers in season; contact visitor centre for map. Munda Biddi Trail: starting in the hills near Perth, this bike trail winds through scenic river valleys and forests south to Collie; details from visitor centre. Bibbulmun Track: sections of this trail pass through Collie; see Albany.

TOWNS NEARBY: Donnybrook 39 km, Harvey 40 km, Australind 42 km, Bunbury 48 km, Balingup 50 km

Coolgardie

Pop. 801 Map ref. Southern WA H5

Goldfields Exhibition Building, Bayley St; (08) 9026 6090; www.coolgardie.wa.gov.au

97.9 Hot FM, 648 AM ABC Local Radio

This town was the first settlement in the eastern goldfields. After alluvial gold was found in 1892, Coolgardie grew in ten years to a town of 15 000 people, 23 hotels, six banks and two stock exchanges. The main street, lined with some magnificent buildings, was made wide enough for camel trains to turn around in. As in many outback towns, the heat and the isolation led to innovation, in this case that of the Coolgardie safe, which used water and a breeze to keep food cool before the days of electricity.

Historic buildings There are 23 buildings in the town centre that have been listed on the National Estate register, many of them on the main street, Bayley St. Over 100 markers are positioned at buildings and historic sites across the town, using stories and photographs to recapture the gold-rush days. The index to markers is in Bayley St next to the visitor centre.

Goldfields Exhibition Museum Local photographs and displays inside the old Warden’s Court including a display on the famous Varischetti mine rescue. In 1907 Modesto Varischetti was trapped underground in a flooded mine for 9 days. Varischetti survived in an air pocket until divers eventually found him. The dramatic rescue captured world attention. Bayley St.

Ben Prior’s Open-Air Museum: unusual collection of machinery and memorabilia; Cnr Bayley and Hunt sts. Warden Finnerty’s House: striking 1895 example of early Australian architecture and furnishings; open 11am–4pm daily except Wed; McKenzie St. C. Y. O’Connor Dedication: fountain and water course in memory of O’Connor, who masterminded the Goldfields Water Supply Scheme; McKenzie St. Gaol tree: used for prisoners in early gold-rush days, before a gaol was built; Hunt St. Lindsay’s Pit Lookout: over open-cut goldmine; Ford St.

Coolgardie Day: Sept. Metal Detecting Championships: odd-numbered years, Sept/Oct.

Coolgardie Cemetery The town cemetery gives you an inkling of the harshness of the early gold-rush years. The register of burials records that of the first 32 burials, the names of 15 were unknown, and many entries for ‘male child’ and ‘female child’ note ‘fever’ as the cause of death. One of the most significant graves is that of Ernest Giles, an Englishman whose name is associated with the exploration of inland Australia. 1 km W.

Coolgardie Camel Farm: offers rides on the ‘ships of the desert’; (08) 9026 6159; 4 km W. Gnarlbine Rock: originally an Aboriginal well, then one of the few water sources for the early prospectors; 30 km SW. Kunanalling Hotel: once a town of over 800 people, the ruins of the hotel are all that remain; 32 km N. Victoria Rock: camping, and spectacular views from the summit; 55 km SW. Burra Rock: popular camping and picnic area (55 km S). Cave Hill, a similar destination, lies a further 40 km S (4WD only). Rowles Lagoon Conservation Park: picnicking and camping spots available although recently there has been no water; 65 km N. Wallaroo Rocks: 3 dams with scenic views and good bushwalking; 90 km W. Golden Quest Discovery Trail: Coolgardie forms part of this 965 km self-guide drive trail of the goldfields; book, map and CD available at visitor centre.

TOWNS NEARBY: Kalgoorlie–Boulder 37 km, Norseman 150 km, Southern Cross 178 km, Leonora 230 km

Coral Bay

Pop. 192 Map ref. Central-western WA B5

Coastal Adventure Tours, Coral Bay Arcade, Robinson St; (08) 9948 5190; www.coralbaytours.com.au

291.7 FM ABC Radio National, 104.9 FM ABC Local Radio

Coral Bay is famous for one thing: its proximity to Ningaloo Marine Park. Ningaloo Reef boasts an incredible diversity of marine life and beautiful coral formations. At Coral Bay the coral gardens lie close to the shore, which makes access to the reef as easy as a gentle swim. Lying at the southern end of Ningaloo Marine Park, Coral Bay has pristine beaches and a near-perfect climate: it is warm and dry regardless of the season, and the water temperature only varies from 18°C to 28°C degrees. Swimming, snorkelling, scuba diving, and beach, reef and deep-sea fishing (outside sanctuary areas) are available year-round.

Fins Cafe: beachside cafe; People’s Park Shopping Village; (08) 9942 5900. T he Ningaloo Reef Cafe: Italian and seafood; 16 Robinson St; (08) 9942 5882. Shades: casual dining; Ningaloo Reef Resort, 1 Robinson St; (08) 9942 5934 or 1800 795 522.

Bayview Coral Bay: Robinson St; (08) 9942 5932.

Ningaloo Marine Park This park protects the 260 km long Ningaloo Reef, the longest fringing coral reef in Australia. It is the only large reef in the world found so close to a continental land mass: about 100 m offshore at its nearest point and less than 7 km at its furthest. This means that even novice snorkellers and children can access the coral gardens. The reef is home to over 500 species of fish, 250 species of coral, manta rays, turtles and a variety of other marine creatures, with seasonal visits from humpback whales, dolphins and whale sharks. Ningaloo Reef is famous for the latter, and from Apr to June visitors from around the world visit the reef to swim with these gentle giants. Tours can be arranged in Exmouth.

Point Cloates: the wrecks of the Zvir, Fin, Perth and Rapid lie on the reef just off the point; 4WD access only; 8 km N. Tours: glass-bottomed boat cruises, snorkel and dive tours, kayak tours, fishing charters, scenic flights and marine wildlife-watching tours to see whale sharks (Apr–June), humpback whales (June–Nov) and manta rays (all year); contact visitor centre for details.

TOWNS NEARBY: Exmouth 138 km, Carnarvon 193 km, Onslow 216 km

Corrigin

Pop. 687 Map ref. South-western WA F5 | Southern WA E8

Corrigin Resource Centre, Larke Cres; (08) 9063 2778; www.corrigin.wa.gov.au

92.5 ABC Classic FM, 100.5 Hot FM

Corrigin was established in the early 1900s and was one of the last wheat-belt towns to be settled. Today the town has a healthy obsession with dogs, as demonstrated by its Dog Cemetery and its national record for lining up 1527 utes with dogs in the back.

Corrigin Pioneer Museum Superb collection of old agricultural equipment including an original Sunshine harvester and some early steam-driven farm machinery. A small working steam train carries passengers on a short circuit around the museum and local rest area. Open Sun and by appt; Kunjin St.

RSL Monument: a Turkish mountain gun from Gallipoli; McAndrew Ave.

2Dog in a Ute event: held in varying years in Apr; contact visitor centre for dates.

Corrigin Caravan Park: Kirkwood St; 0427 632 515.

Dog Cemetery Loving dog owners have gone to the considerable expense of having elaborate headstones placed over the remains of their faithful four-footed friends. There are over 80 dogs buried in the cemetery, with gravestones dedicated to Dusty, Rover, Spot et al. There is even one statue of a dog almost 2 m high. Brookton Hwy; 7 km W.

Wildflower scenic drive: signposted with lookout; 3 km W. Gorge Rock: large granite outcrop with picnic area; 20 km SE.

TOWNS NEARBY: Kulin 46 km, Wickepin 61 km, Pingelly 77 km, Kellerberrin 79 km, Beverley 93 km

Cranbrook

Pop. 279 Map ref. South-western WA F10 | Southern WA E10

Council offices, Gathorne St; (08) 9826 1008; www.cranbrook.wa.gov.au

95.3 Hot FM, 630 AM ABC Local Radio The small town of Cranbrook greets travellers with a large sign announcing that it is the ‘Gateway to the Stirlings’. A mere 10 kilometres away is Stirling Range National Park, a mecca for bushwalkers and climbers. The nearby Frankland area has gained a national reputation for its premium-quality wines.

Station House Museum: restored and furnished 1930s-style; Gathorne St. Wildflower walk: 300 m walk to Stirling Gateway with displays of orchids in spring; Salt River Rd.

Cranbrook Shire on Show: Apr. Wildflower Display: Sept. Art trail and Photographic Competition: Oct.

Stirling Range National Park Surrounded by a flat, sandy plain, the Stirling Range rises abruptly to over 1000 m, its jagged peaks veiled in swirling mists. The cool, humid environment created by these low clouds supports 1500 flowering plant species, many unique to the area, earning the park recognition as one of the top-10 biodiversity hot spots in the world. This National Heritage–listed park is one of WA’s premier destinations for bushwalking. Bluff Knoll, at 1073 metres, is one of the state’s premier hiking challenges. Best time to visit is Oct–Dec.10 km SE.

Sukey Hill Lookout: expansive views of farmland, salt lakes and Stirling Range; off Salt River Rd; 5 km E. Lake Poorrarecup: swimming and waterskiing; 40 km SW. Wineries: the nearby Frankland River region boasts several wineries, including Alkoomi, Frankland Estate and Ferngrove; 50 km W. Wildflower drive and heritage trail: contact visitor centre for brochure.

TOWNS NEARBY: Mount Barker 38 km, Kojonup 63 km, Katanning 68 km, Denmark 76 km, Albany 83 km

Cue	Pop. 273 Map ref. Central-western WA H10 | Southern WA D1 | Central WA D11

Golden Art Shop and Tourist Information Centre, Austin St; (08) 9963 1936; www.cue.wa.gov.au

102.9 WA FM, 106.1 FM ABC Local Radio

This town was once known as the ‘Queen of the Murchison’. In 1891 Mick Fitzgerald and Ed Heffernan found large nuggets of gold not far from what was to become the main street. It was their prospecting mate, Tom Cue, who registered the claim on their behalf and when the town was officially proclaimed in 1894, it bore his name. Within ten years the population of this boom town had exploded to about 10 000 people. While Cue’s population has dwindled, the legacy of those heady gold-rush days is evident in the town’s remarkably grandiose buildings.

Heritage buildings Many early buildings still stand and are classified by the National Trust. A stroll up the main street takes in the elegant band rotunda, the former Gentleman’s Club (now the shire offices, housing a photographic display of the region’s history), the Old Gaol, the courthouse, the post office and the police station. One block west in Dowley St is the former Masonic Lodge built in 1899 and reputed to be the largest corrugated-iron structure in the Southern Hemisphere.

Walga Rock This monolith is 1.5 km long and 5 km around the base. It has several Aboriginal rock paintings. One of the most extraordinary paintings, considering that Cue is over 300 km from the sea, is of a white, square-rigged sailing ship. It is believed to depict one of the Dutch ships that visited WA’s mid-west shores in the 17th century. 50 km W.

Day Dawn: once Cue’s twin town, thanks to the fabulous wealth of the Great Fingall Mine. The mine office, a magnificent century-old stone building now perched precariously on the edge of a new open-cut mine, is all that remains of the town; 5 km W. Milly Soak: popular picnic spot for early Cue residents. A tent hospital was set up nearby during the typhoid epidemic; 3 lone graves are the only reminder of the thousands who died; 16km N. Heritage trail: includes the abandoned towns Big Bell and Day Dawn; contact visitor centre for brochure. Fossicking: areas surrounding the town; contact visitor centre for details.

TOWNS NEARBY: Mount Magnet 71 km, Meekatharra 109 km, Yalgoo 157 km

Denham

Pop. 609 Map ref. Central-western WA B9 | Shark Bay D7

Knight Tce; (08) 9948 1590 or 1300 135 887; www.sharkbaywa.com.au

105.3 Hot Hits FM, 107.5 FM ABC Radio National

On the middle peninsula of Shark Bay, Denham is the most westerly town in Australia. Dirk Hartog, the Dutch navigator, landed on an island at the bay’s entrance in 1616, the first known European to land on the continent. Centuries later, in 1858, Captain H. M. Denham surveyed the area and a town bearing his name was established. The Shark Bay region was once known for its pearling and fishing, and the streets of Denham were literally paved with pearl shells. In the 1960s, however, the local roads board poured bitumen over the pearl shells, and so destroyed what could have been a unique tourist attraction. Fortunately, several buildings made from coquina shell block still stand in the town. Today Shark Bay is renowned for the wild dolphins that come inshore at Monkey Mia (pronounced ‘my-a’). As a World Heritage area, it also protects dugongs, humpback whales, green and loggerhead turtles, important seagrass feeding grounds and a colony of stromatolites, the world’s oldest living fossils.

Shell block buildings: St Andrews Anglican Church, cnr Hughes and Brockman sts, and the Old Pearlers Restaurant, cnr Knight Tce and Durlacher St, were both built from coquina shell block. Town Bluff: popular walk for beachcombers; from town along beach to bluff. Pioneer Park: contains the stone on which Captain Denham carved his name in 1858; Hughes St.

The Old Pearler Restaurant: maritime-themed seafood restaurant; Cnr Durlacher St and Knight Tce; (08) 9948 1373. The Boughshed Restaurant: international cuisine; Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort, Monkey Mia; (08) 9948 1320 or 1800 653 611.

Blue Dolphin Caravan Park & Holiday Village: Lot 5 Hamelin Rd; (08) 9948 1385. Denham Seaside Tourist Village: 1 Stella Rowley Dr; (08) 9948 1242. Shark Bay Caravan Park: 6 Spaven Way; (08) 9948 1387. M onkey Mia Dolphin Resort: Monkey Mia Rd, Monkey Mia; (08) 9948 1320.

Monkey Mia The daily shore visits by the wild bottlenose dolphins at Monkey Mia are a world-famous phenomenon. The dolphins swim into the shallows, providing a unique opportunity for humans to make contact with them. It began in the 1960s when a local woman started feeding the dolphins that followed her husband’s fishing boat to the shoreline. Feeding still occurs, although now it is carefully monitored by rangers to ensure that the dolphins maintain their hunting and survival skills. Visiting times, and the number of dolphins, vary. For a total marine encounter, dugong-watching cruises can also be arranged from here. 26 km NE.

Dirk Hartog Island The state’s largest and most historically significant island, named after Dutchman Dirk Hartog who landed here in 1616 – 154 years before Captain Cook. Hartog left behind an inscribed pewter plate, which was removed in 1697 by his countryman Willem de Vlamingh and replaced with another plate. The original was returned to Holland; Vlamingh’s plate is now housed in the Maritime Museum in Fremantle. Flights and cruises depart daily; bookings at visitor centre. 30 km W.

Hamelin Pool stromatolites The shores of Hamelin Pool are dotted with stromatolites, the world’s largest and oldest living fossils. These colonies of micro-organisms resemble the oldest and simplest forms of life on earth, dated at around 3.5 million years old. The Hamelin Pool stromatolites are relatively new colonies however, about 3000 years old. They thrive here because of the extreme salinity of the water, the occurrence of calcium bicarbonate and the limited water circulation. Visitors can view these extraordinary life forms from a boardwalk. Close by is the Flint Cliff Telegraph Station and Post Office Museum (1884) with a history of the region. 88 km SE.

Dugongs The Shark Bay World Heritage Area has the largest seagrass meadows in the world, covering about 4000 sq km. These meadows are home to around 10 000 dugongs, 10% of the world’s remaining population. An endangered species, the dugong is nature’s only vegetarian sea mammal. Also known as a sea cow, the dugong can live for up to 70 years and grow up to 3 m long. Tours are available offering visitors a unique opportunity to see dugongs in the wild. Contact visitor centre for details.

Little Lagoon: ideal fishing and picnic spot; 3 km N. Francois Peron National Park: Peron Homestead with its ‘hot tub’ of artesian water; 4WD access only; 7 km N. Ocean Park: marine park with aquarium and touch pool; 9 km S. Eagle Bluff: habitat of sea eagle and a good viewing spot for sharks and stingrays; 20 km S. Blue Lagoon Pearl Farm: working platform where black pearls are harvested; Monkey Mia; 26 km NE. Shell Beach: 120 km of unique coastline comprising countless tiny coquina shells; 45 km SE. Steep Point: western-most point on mainland with spectacular scenery; 4WD access only; 260 km W. Zuytdorp Cliffs: extend from beneath Shark Bay region south to Kalbarri; 4WD access only. Tours: boat trips and charter flights to historic Dirk Hartog Island, catamaran cruises, safaris and coach tours; contact visitor centre for details.

TOWNS NEARBY: Carnarvon 116 km, Gascoyne Junction 194 km, Kalbarri 208 km

Denmark

Pop. 2735 Map ref. South Coast A11 | South-western WA F11 | Southern WA E11

73 South Coast Hwy; (08) 9848 2055; www.denmark.com.au

92.1 FM ABC News Radio, 630 AM ABC Local Radio

Denmark lies at the foot of Mt Shadforth, overlooking the tranquil Denmark River and Wilson Inlet. It is surrounded by forests of towering karri trees that sweep down to meet the Southern Ocean. The Aboriginal name for the Denmark River is ‘koorabup’, meaning ‘place of the black swan’. Originally a timber town, Denmark’s economy is today sustained by a combination of dairying, beef cattle, fishing, timber and tourism. The town is close to some of the most beautiful coastline in the state.

Historical Museum: in old police station; Mitchell St. Bandstand: located on the riverbank with seating for the audience on the other side of the river; Holling Rd. Arts and crafts: galleries abound, including the Old Butter Factory in North St; contact visitor centre for details. Mt Shadforth Lookout: magnificent views; Mohr Dr. Berridge and Thornton parks: shaded picnic areas; along riverbank in Holling Rd.

Craft Market: Berridge Park; Jan, Easter and Dec. Pantomime: Civic Centre; Jan. Brave New Works: new performance art; Easter.

Pepper & Salt Restaurant: fresh contemporary Australian; Matilda’s Estate, 18 Hamilton Rd; (08) 9848 3053. Southern End Restaurant + Function Centre: local produce; 427 Mt Shadforth Rd; (08) 9848 2600.

Denmark Rivermouth Caravan Park: Inlet Dr; (08) 9848 1262. Mt Lindesay View Bed & Breakfast: Cnr Mt Shadforth Tourist Dr and McNabb Rd; (08) 9848 1933. Sensational Heights Bed & Breakfast: 159 Suttons Rd; (08) 9840 9000. Denmark Ocean Beach Holiday Park: 770 Ocean Beach Rd, Ocean Beach; (08) 9848 1105.

William Bay National Park This relatively small 1867 ha park protects stunning coastline and forest between Walpole and Denmark on WA’s south coast. It is renowned for its primeval windswept granite tors. Green’s Pool, a natural rockpool in the park, remains calm and safe for swimming and snorkelling all year-round. Nearby are the Elephant Rocks, massive rounded boulders resembling elephants; Madfish Bay, a good fishing spot; and Waterfall Beach for swimming. 17 km SW.

Ocean Beach: one of the finest surfing beaches in WA; 8 km S. Monkey Rock: lookout with panoramic views; 10 km SW. Bartholomew’s Meadery: honey, honey wines, gourmet honey ice-cream and other bee products, as well as a live beehive display; 20 km W. Pentland Alpaca Stud and Tourist Farm: diverse collection of animals, including alpacas, koalas, kangaroos, bison, water buffalo, llamas and many more; Cnr McLeod and Scotsdale rds; (08) 9840 9262; 20 km W. Eden Gate Blueberry Farm: sprayfree fruit, a range of blueberry products and blueberry wines; open Thurs–Mon Dec–Apr; 25 km E. Whale-watching: viewing platform above Lowlands Beach (southern rights June–Oct); 28 km E. Fishing: at Wilson Inlet, Ocean Beach (8 km S) and Parry Beach (25 km W ). West Cape Howe National Park: Torbay Head, WA’s most southerly point, and Cosy Corner, a protected beach perfect for swimming; 30 km SW. Wineries: many wineries open for cellar-door tastings, including Howard Park Winery, West Cape Howe and Tinglewood Wines; contact visitor centre for map. Scenic drives: the 25 km Mt Shadforth Scenic Drive and the 34 km Scotsdale Tourist Drive both feature lush forests, ocean views, wineries and galleries; contact visitor centre for maps. Heritage trails: 3 km Mokare trail, 5 km Karri Walk or 9 km Wilson Inlet trail; contact visitor centre for maps. Bibbulmun Track: a section of this world-class 963 km long-distance trail passes through Denmark; see Albany. Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk: see Walpole; 65 km w.

TOWNS NEARBY: Mount Barker 46 km, Albany 47 km, Walpole 57 km, Cranbrook 76 km, Northcliffe 119 km

Derby

Pop. 3091 Map ref. Northern WA I7 | Kimberley D9

2 Clarendon St; (08) 9191 1426 or 1800 621 426; www.derbytourism.com.au

102.7 WA FM, 873 AM ABC Local Radio

It is said that Derby, known as the ‘Gateway to the Gorges’, is where the real Kimberley region begins. The first town settled in the Kimberley, it features some spectacular natural attractions nearby: the Devonian Reef Gorges of Windjana and Tunnel Creek are only a few hours’ drive along the Gibb River Road, and the magnificent islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago are just a short cruise away. Although King Sound was first explored in 1688, it wasn’t until the early 1880s that the Port of Derby was established as a landing point for wool shipments and Derby was proclaimed a townsite. The first jetty was built in 1885, the same year that gold was discovered at Halls Creek. Miners and prospectors poured into the port on their way to the goldfields but by the 1890s, as gold fever died, the port was used almost exclusively for the export of live cattle and sheep. In 1951 iron-ore mining began at Cockatoo Island, which revitalised the town. Derby is now a service centre for the region’s rich pastoral and mining industries. Rain closes some roads in the area from November to March, so check conditions before setting out on any excursion.

[ DERBY ] ABORIGINAL ROCK ART, THE KIMBERLEY

Old Derby Gaol: built in 1906, this is the oldest building in town; Loch St. Wharfinger House Museum: built in the 1920s for the local harbourmaster, the design is typical of the tropics. Now houses an extensive collection of historical memorabilia and Aboriginal artefacts. Key from visitor centre; Loch St. Derby Jetty: some of the highest tides in Australia, up to 12 m, can be seen from the jetty. Now used to export ore from various local mines.

Market: Clarendon St; each Sat May–Sept. King Tide Day: festival celebrating highest tide in Australia; Apr/May. Moonrise Rock Festival: June. Derby Races: June/July. Mowanjum Festival: Indigenous art and culture; July. Boab Festival: Mardi Gras, mud football, mud crab races and bush poets; July. Derby Rodeo: Aug. Boxing Day Sports: Dec. g

Lalgardi Restaurant: international cuisine; Derby Boab Inn, 98–100 Loch St; (08) 9191 1044. Oasis Bistro: contemporary bistro dining; King Sound Resort Hotel, 112 Loch St; (08) 9193 1044.

Windjana Gorge National Park A 350-million-year-old Devonian reef rises majestically above the surrounding plains. An easy walking trail winds through the gorge, taking in primeval life forms fossilised within the gorge walls. 145 km E.

Tunnel Creek National Park Wear sandshoes, carry a torch and be prepared to get wet as you explore the 750 m long cave that runs through the Napier Range. Nearby Pigeon’s Cave was the hideout of an 1890s Aboriginal outlaw, Jandamarra, also known as ‘Pigeon’. Contact visitor centre for tour details. 184 km E.

Prison tree: 1000-year-old boab tree formerly used as a prison; 7 km S. Myall’s Bore: beside the bore stands a 120 m long cattle trough reputed to be the longest in the Southern Hemisphere; 7 km S. Gorges: Lennard Gorge (190 km E ), Bell Gorge (214 km E ), Manning Gorge (306 km E), Barnett River Gorge (340 km NE ) and Sir John Gorge (350 km E); 4WD access only. Mitchell Plateau: highlights include the Wandjina rock art and spectacular Mitchell Falls, King Edward River and Surveyor’s Pool. In this remote region, visitors must be entirely self-sufficient; via Gibb River Rd and Kalumburu Rd; 580 km NE. Scenic flights can also be arranged from Drysdale River Station and Kununurra. Pigeon Heritage Trail: follow the story of the Aboriginal outlaw Jandamarra, nicknamed Pigeon, and his people, the Bunuba; contact visitor centre for map. Gibb River Rd: 4WD road between Derby and Wyndham traverses some of the most spectacular gorge country of the Kimberley; contact visitor centre for guidebook and current road conditions. Buccaneer Archipelago: in Derby you can arrange a scenic flight or cruise around this archipelago which begins north of King Sound; see Broome.

TOWNS NEARBY: Broome 165 km, Fitzroy Crossing 227 km

Dongara–Denison

Pop. 3052 Map ref. Southern WA A4

9 Waldeck St; (08) 9927 1404; www.irwin.wa.gov.au

96.5 WA FM, 828 AM ABC Local Radio

Dongara and its nearby twin town of Port Denison lie on the coast 359 kilometres north of Perth. Dongara–Denison is the self-proclaimed ‘Lobster Capital’ of the state, with its offshore reefs supporting a profitable industry. Dongara’s main street is lined with magnificent Moreton Bay fig trees while Port Denison provides local anglers with a large marina and harbour.

Irwin District Museum Housed in Dongara’s Old Police Station, Courthouse and Gaol (1870), the museum features exhibits on the history of the buildings, the invasion of rabbits into WA and the Irwin Coast shipwrecks. Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri; Waldeck St; (08) 9927 1323.

Russ Cottage: a beautifully restored farm-worker’s cottage (1870). The hard-packed material of the kitchen floor was made from scores of anthills, and the flood-level marker near the front door indicates how high the nearby Irwin River rose during the record flood of 1971; open 10am–12pm Sun or by appt; St Dominics Rd, Dongara. The Priory Hotel: this 1881 building has been an inn, a priory and a boarding college for girls and is now once again a hotel; St Dominics Rd, Dongara. Church of St John the Baptist: (1884) its pews were made from the driftwood of shipwrecks and its church bell is said to have come from Fremantle Gaol; Cnr Waldeck and Church sts, Dongara. The Royal Steam Flour Mill: (1894) it served the local wheat-growing community until its closure in 1935; northern end of Waldeck St, Dongara. Cemetery: headstones dating from 1874 and a wall of remembrance to Dominican sisters; brochure from visitor centre; Dodd St, Dongara. Town heritage trail: 1.6 km walk that features 28 historic Dongara sites; contact visitor centre for map. Fisherman’s Lookout: 1 remaining of 2 obelisks built in 1869, with panoramic views of Port Denison; Point Leander Dr, Port Denison.

Monthly Market: Priory Gardens; 1st Sat each month. Craft Market: old police station, Dongara; Easter and Christmas. Dongara Races: Easter. Larry Lobster Community Festival and Blessing of the Fleet: at the start of each rock lobster season; Nov.

The Season Tree: cafe food with an Asian twist; 8 Moreton Tce; (08) 9927 1400. 

Seaspray Beach Holiday Park: 79 Church St, Dongara; (08) 9927 1165. Dongara Denison Beach Holiday Park: 250 Ocean Dr, Port Denison; (08) 9927 1131. Dongara Tourist Park: 8 George St, Port Denison; (08) 9927 1210. Western Flora Caravan Park: Brand Hwy, 22 km N of Eneabba; (08) 9955 2030.

Silverdale Olive Orchards: olive oil products and tastings; open Sat Apr–Nov or by appt; 10 km N. Mingenew: small town in agricultural surrounds. Nearby is Fossil Cliff, filled with marine fossils over 250 million years old; 47 km E.

TOWNS NEARBY: Greenough 39 km, Geraldton 61 km, Mullewa 98 km, Carnamah 104 km, Morawa 105 km

Donnybrook

Pop. 1932 Map ref. South-west Coast F5 | South-western WA C9 | Southern WA C10

Old Railway Station, South Western Hwy; (08) 9731 1720; www.donnybrook-balingup.wa.gov.au

95.7 Hot FM, 1224 AM ABC Radio National

Donnybrook is the centre of the oldest and largest apple-growing area in Western Australia. This is the home of the Granny Smith apple and where Lady William apples were developed. Gold was found here in 1897 but mined for only four years. Donnybrook is famous for its sandstone, which has been used in construction statewide since the early 1900s. In Perth, the GPO, St Mary’s Cathedral and the University of Western Australia buildings have all been faced with Donnybrook stone. The quarry can be seen from the Upper Capel Road out of town.

Memorial Hall: built of Donnybrook stone; Bentley St. Anchor and Hope Inn: (1862) the oldest homestead in the district, now a private property; view outside from South Western Hwy. Trigwell Place: picnic and barbecue facilities, and canoeing on nearby Preston River; South Western Hwy.

Gourmet Wine and Food Fest: Feb. Apple Festival Ball: even-numbered years, Easter. Marathon Relay: Nov.

The Real River Company: country cosiness and international cuisine; 75 Goldfields Rd; (08) 9731 0311.

Old Goldfields Orchard and Cider Factory Combines goldfield history with a working orchard and restaurant. Climb the reconstructed poppet head over the mine, study the history of gold on the property and try your hand at gold prospecting. The orchard provides seasonal fruit for sale and you can enjoy tastings of cider, fruit juice and wines. Open 9.30am–4.30pm Wed–Sun and public/school holidays; Goldfields Rd; (08) 9731 0322; 6 km S.

Boyanup: features a transport museum; 12 km NW. Ironstone Gully Falls: barbecue area en route to Capel; 19 km W. Gnomesville: surprising roadside collection of garden gnomes; by the side of the Wellington Mills roundabout on the road between Dardanup and Lowden; 25 km SE.

TOWNS NEARBY: Balingup 28 km, Bunbury 32 km, Australind 34 km, Collie 39 km, Busselton 45 km

Dunsborough

Pop. 3373 Map ref. South-west Coast B6 | South-western WA B9 | Southern WA B10

Seymour Blvd; (08) 9752 1288; www.geographebay.com

98.4 FM Western Tourist Radio, 1224 AM ABC Radio National

Dunsborough is a picturesque coastal town on the southwestern tip of Geographe Bay. Just west of the town is Leeuwin–Naturaliste National Park with its dramatic coastline and seasonal wildflower displays. Many of the wineries of the South-West region are only a short drive from the town.

Market: Dunsborough Hall, cnr Gibney St and Gifford Rd; 1st Sat each month. Margaret River Wine Festival: throughout region; Apr/May.

Dunsborough Bakery: renowned bakery; 243 Naturaliste Tce; (08) 9755 3137. Other Side of the Moon Restaurant: swanky fine dining; Quay West Resort Bunker Bay, Bunker Bay Rd, Naturaliste; (08) 9756 9159. Wise Vineyard Restaurant: seasonal international cuisine; Wise Wines, Eagle Bay Rd; (08) 9755 3331.

Leeuwin–Naturaliste National Park Close to Dunsborough at the northern end of the park is Cape Naturaliste, with its lighthouse, museum and whale-watching platform (humpback whales linger offshore Sept–Nov). Walking tracks offer spectacular views of the coastline. Sugarloaf Rock is a dramatic formation just south of the lighthouse – it is also a habitat of the endangered red-tailed tropic bird. 13 km NW. See also Margaret River and Augusta.

Blackwood Valley wine region This is a low-key region between Margaret River and Great Southern, which began producing wine in 1976. The climate is perfect for the full ripening of cabernet sauvignon grapes, while chardonnay and shiraz are also good performers. With over 50 wineries in the area, a few to visit include Beulah and Blackwood Crest wines.

Country Life Farm: animals galore, plus merry-go-round, giant slide and bouncing castles; Caves Rd; (08) 9755 3707; 1 km W. Simmo’s Icecreamery: 39 flavours of homemade ice-cream made fresh daily; Commonage Rd; 5 km SE. Quindalup Fauna Park: specialises in birds, fish, tropical butterflies and baby animals; (08) 9755 3933; 5 km E. Wreck of HMAS Swan: the largest accessible dive-wreck site in the Southern Hemisphere; tour bookings and permits at visitor centre; off Point Picquet, just south of Eagle Bay; 8 km NW. Beaches: to the north-west, popular for fishing, swimming and snorkelling, include Meelup (5 km), Eagle Bay (8 km) and Bunker Bay (12 km). Tours and activities: whale-watching charters (Sept–Nov); deep-sea fishing charters; scuba diving, snorkelling and canoeing; wildflower displays in season.

TOWNS NEARBY: Yallingup 8 km, Busselton 22 km, Margaret River 37 km, Bunbury 59 km, Donnybrook 67 km

Dwellingup

Pop. 344 Map ref. Perth & Surrounds E10 | South-western WA C7 | Southern WA C8

Marrinup St; (08) 9538 1108; www.murray.wa.gov.au

97.3 Coast FM, 684 AM ABC Local Radio

Set among pristine jarrah forest, this is a thriving timber town that was virtually destroyed in 1961 when lightning started a bushfire that lasted for five days, burnt 140 000 hectares of forest and destroyed several nearby towns. Dwellingup was the only town to be rebuilt, and is now a forest-management centre. The Hotham Valley Tourist Railway operates here.

Forest Heritage Centre This centre records WA’s jarrah forest heritage and promotes fine wood design, training and education. The building is formed from rammed earth, and designed to represent 3 jarrah leaves on a bough. It includes an Interpretive Centre, a School of Wood and a Forest Heritage Gallery. Learn about conservation and walk among the treetops on an 11 m high canopy walkway. Acacia Rd; (08) 9538 1395.

Historical Centre: includes a photographic display depicting early 1900s life in the mill towns. Also a 1939 Mack Fire Truck, the only one in WA; visitor centre, Marrinup St. Community Hotel: last community hotel in WA; Marrinup St.

Log Chop and Community Fair: Feb. Giant Pumpkin Competition: Apr.

Dwellingup Community Hotel: counter meals; 8 Marrinup St; (08) 9538 1056. Newbliss Winery and Cafe: rustic lunches; 101 Irwin Rd; (08) 9538 1665.

Dwellingup Chalets & Caravan Park: 23 Delpark Rd; (08) 9538 1157.

Lane–Poole Reserve Provides opportunities for picnicking, swimming, canoeing, rafting, fishing, camping and walking. Walk trails include sections of the Bibbulmun Track, the 18 km King Jarrah Track from Nanga Mill, the 17 km Nanga Circuit and a 1.5 km loop from Island Pool. 10 km s.

Marrinup Forest Tour: unique 16 km vehicle and walk tour that features many aspects of the Darling Scarp including the Marrinup POW camp and remnants of old mills and towns of days gone by; contact visitor centre for map. Hotham Valley Tourist Railway: travel from Perth via Pinjarra to Dwellingup by train, taking in lush green dairy country before climbing the Darling Range, WA’s steepest and most spectacular section of railway, and finishing in the heart of the jarrah forest; steamhauled May–Oct, diesel-hauled Nov–Apr; bookings (08) 9221 4444; Dwellingup Railway Station. Etmilyn Forest Tramway: takes visitors 8 km through farms and old-growth jarrah forest to the pioneer settlement of Etmilyn. Bibbulmun Track: longdistance walk trail runs through the middle of the town; see Albany. Munda Biddi Trail: WA’s first long-distance off-road bike track begins in Mundaring near Perth and winds 182 km through native forest to Dwellingup. It will eventually be extended to Albany; contact visitor centre for details.

TOWNS NEARBY: Pinjarra 20 km, Mandurah 38 km, Harvey 43 km, Rockingham 58 km, Australind 71 km

Esperance

Pop. 9536 Map ref. Southern WA I9

Museum Village, Dempster St; (08) 9083 1555 or 1300 664 455; www.visitesperance.com

102.3 Hot FM, 837 AM ABC Local Radio

Esperance was a sleepy backwater until, in the 1950s, it was found that adding trace elements to the sandy soil made farming feasible. The town became a port and service centre for the agricultural and pastoral hinterland. However, it is the magnificent scenery, the pristine beaches and the proximity of many national parks that draw visitors to this town. Take the Great Ocean Drive, 38 kilometres of postcard-perfect scenery, and you’ll understand why Esperance is a popular holiday spot.

Municipal Museum Visit one of WA’s outstanding regional museums. See exhibits about shipwrecks, including the famous Sanko Harvest, and learn of Australia’s only recorded pirate, the bloodthirsty Black Jack Anderson, who roamed the Recherche Archipelago. There is also a comprehensive display about Skylab, which crashed and spread debris through the area in 1979. Open 1.30–4.30pm daily; James St; (08) 9071 1579.

Museum Village: collection of historic buildings housing craft shops, pottery shops, art gallery, cafe and visitor centre; Dempster St. Cannery Arts Centre: local exhibitions with wind garden and views behind; Norseman Rd. Mermaid Leather: unique range of leather products made from fish and shark skins; Wood St. Aquarium: 14 aquariums and touch pool; The Esplanade.

Market: Dempster St; Sun mornings. Wildflower Show: Sept. Agricultural Show: Oct.

Bonapartes Bar and Restaurant: modern Australian; 51 The Esplanade; (08) 9071 7727. Loose Goose: vibrant modern restaurant; 9A Andrews St; (08) 9071 2320. Ocean Blues Restaurant: simple seaside fare; 19 The Esplanade; (08) 9071 7107. Taylor Street Jetty Cafe Restaurant: beach-side cafe; Taylor St Jetty; (08) 9071 4317. The Deck: a favourite for ice-creams; Cnr Clarke and Veal sts, Hopetoun; (08) 9838 3303.

Esperance Bay Holiday Park: 162 Dempster St; (08) 9071 2237. Esperance Seafront Caravan Park: Cnr Goldfields and Norseman rds; (08) 9071 1251. A cclaim Pine Grove Holiday Park: 817 Harbour Rd, Chadwick; (08) 9071 4100. Pink Lake Tourist Park: 113 Pink Lake Rd, Sinclair; (08) 9071 2424.

Great Ocean Drive One of Australia’s most spectacular scenic drives, this 38 km loop road passes wind farms, which supply 30% of the town’s electricity, and some of the region’s best-known natural attractions, including sheltered swimming at Twilight Cove, and Pink Lake, rendered lipstick-colour by algae. There are coastal lookouts, and sightings of southern right whales from June to October. Contact visitor centre for map.

Cape Le Grand National Park This spectacular coastline is lined with pristine beaches, including Hellfire Bay and Thistle Cove. At Lucky Bay, kangaroos can often be spotted lying on the beach. Visit Whistling Rock, which ‘whistles’ under certain wind conditions, and climb Frenchman’s Peak for breathtaking views. There are magnificent displays of wildflowers in spring, and many bushwalks. Camping at Cape Le Grand and Lucky Bay. 56 km E.

Recherche Archipelago The Esperance region is known as the Bay of Isles because of this collection of 110 islands dotted 250 km along the coast that provide a haven for seals and sea lions. Cruises (3 hrs 30 min, subject to numbers and weather) take you around Cull, Button, Charlie, Woody and other islands; landing is permitted only on Woody Island. If you are lucky, you might see fur seals, sea lions, dolphins and, in season, southern right whales. For an extraordinary camping experience, try a safari hut on Woody Island (open Sept–Apr). These canvas huts set high on timber decking overlook an idyllic turquoise bay framed by eucalyptus trees. Woody Island also has an interpretive centre to provide information to visitors.

Rotary Lookout: views of bay, town and archipelago; Wireless Hill; 2 km W. Pink Lake: a pink saltwater lake; 5 km W. Twilight Cove: sheltered swimming; 12 km W. Observatory Point and Lookout: dramatic views of bay and islands; 17 km W. Monjingup Lake Nature Reserve: walk trails, birdwatching and wildflowers in spring; 20 km W. Dalyup River Wines: the most isolated winery in WA; open weekends in summer; (08) 9076 5027; 42 km W. Stokes National Park: beautiful coastal and inlet scenery; 80 km W. Cape Arid National Park: birdwatching, fishing, camping and 4WD routes; 120 km E. Whale-watching: southern right whales visit bays and protected waters to calve (June–Oct); along the Great Ocean Drive and at Cape Arid. Great Country Drive: takes visitors 92 km inland; maps from visitor centre.

TOWNS NEARBY: Ravensthorpe 173 km, Norseman 185 km, Lake King 221 km, Balladonia 233 km, Bremer Bay 238 km

Eucla

Pop. 50 Map ref. 566 C7 | Southern WA P6

Eucla Motel, Eyre Hwy; (08) 9039 3468; www.dundas.wa.gov.au

97.1 FM ABC Radio National, 531 AM ABC Local Radio

Eucla is the largest settlement on the Nullarbor Plain, located just near the South Australian border. The ruins of a telegraph station exist at the original townsite and beyond the ruins are the remains of a jetty, a reminder of pioneering days when supplies were transported by boat. Eucla is today located on the Hampton Tableland and operates on Central Western Time, 45 minutes ahead of the rest of Western Australia.

Telegraph station ruins Opened in 1877 (just 33 years after Samuel Morse invented the telegraph), the Eucla Telegraph Station helped link WA with the rest of Australia and the world, often sending over 20 000 messages a year. The first message, sent to Perth in December 1877, stated simply, ‘Eucla line opened. Hurrah.’ 4 km S.

Eucla Museum: local history, including exhibits of the telegraph station, told through newspaper clippings and old photographs; Eucla Motel. Travellers’ Cross: dedicated to travellers and illuminated at night; on the escarpment, west of town. Bureau of Meteorology: visitors welcome; east of town; (08) 9039 3444. 9-hole golf course: site of the Golf Classic in May; north of town.

Eucla Motor Hotel: counter meals; Eyre Hwy; (08) 9039 3468.

Eucla Caravan Park: Eyre Hwy; (08) 9039 3468.

Eucla National Park This small park extends between Eucla and Border Village. On the coast near the SA border is Wilsons Bluff Lookout, with views to the east following the Bunda Cliffs into the distance. Closer to Eucla are the enormous sculptural shapes of the Delisser Sandhills. Mark your footprints in the dunes.

Border Village: quarantine checkpoint for people entering WA (travellers should ensure they are not carrying fruit, vegetables, honey, used fruit and produce containers, plants or seeds). The Border Dash starts here every Oct; 13 km E.

TOWNS NEARBY: Madura 178 km

Exmouth

Pop. 1845 Map ref. Central-western WA B3

Murat Rd; (08) 9949 1176 or 1800 287 328; www.exmouthwa.com.au

107.7 ABC Radio National, 1188 AM ABC Local Radio

One of the newest towns in Australia, Exmouth was founded in 1967 as a support town for the Harold E. Holt US Naval Communications Station, the main source of local employment. Excellent year-round fishing and proximity to Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Reef have since made Exmouth a major tourist destination. The town is the nearest point in Australia to the continental shelf.

[ EXMOUTH ] SHORT-BEAKED ECHIDNA, CAPE RANGE NATIONAL PARK

Mall Market: each Sun Apr–Sept. Gamex: world-class game-fishing competition; Mar. Whale Shark Festival: Apr/May. Art Quest: July. Bill Fish Bonanza: Oct/Nov.

Mantaray’s Restaurant: modern brasserie; Novotel Ningaloo Resort, Madaffari Dr; (08) 9949 0000. Potshot Hotel Resort: relaxed dining; 1 Murat Rd; (08) 9949 1200. Whalers Restaurant: local seafood; 5 Kennedy St; (08) 9949 2416.

Exmouth Cape Holiday Park – Aspen Parks: 3 Truscott Cres; (08) 9949 1101. Ningaloo Caravan & Holiday Resort: Lot 1112 Murat Rd; (08) 9949 2377.

Cape Range National Park This rugged landscape of arid rocky gorges is edged by the stunning coastline of Ningaloo Marine Park. Wildlife is abundant, with emus, euros, rock wallabies and red kangaroos often sighted. In late winter there is a beautiful array of wildflowers including the Sturt’s desert pea and the superb bird flower. Attractions within the park include Shothole Canyon, an impressive gorge; Mangrove Bay, a sanctuary zone with a bird hide overlooking a lagoon; and Mandu Mandu Gorge where you can walk along an ancient river bed. Yardie Creek is the only gorge with permanent water. Turquoise Bay is a popular beach for swimming and snorkelling (watch for currents). The Milyering Visitor Centre (54 km SW), made of rammed earth and run by solar power, is 52 km from Exmouth on the western side of the park and offers information on both Cape Range and Ningaloo. Contact (08) 9949 2808.

Ningaloo Marine Park: see Coral Bay. Naval Communication Station: the centre tower in its antenna field, at 388 m, is one of the tallest structures in the Southern Hemisphere; not open to public; 5 km N. Vlamingh Head Lighthouse and Lookout: built in 1912, Australia’s only kerosene-burning lighthouse served as a beacon to mariners until 1967. The lookout offers panoramic 360-degree views; 19 km N. Learmonth Jetty: popular fishing spot, rebuilt after Cyclone Vance; 33 km S. Wildlife-watching: turtle-nesting (Nov–Jan); coral-spawning (Mar–Apr); boat cruises and air flights to see whale sharks (Mar–June); humpback whales (Aug–Nov) from lighthouse (17 km N ) and from whalewatching boat tours. Snorkellers can swim with whale sharks and manta rays located by cruise boats. Coral-viewing boat cruises also available; contact visitor centre for details.

TOWNS NEARBY: Onslow 107 km, Coral Bay 138 km

Fitzroy Crossing

Pop. 925 Map ref. Northern WA K8 | Kimberley H11

Cnr Great Northern Hwy and Flynn Dr; (08) 9191 5355; www.sdwk.wa.gov.au

102.9 WA FM, 106.1 FM ABC Local Radio

Fitzroy Crossing is in the heart of the Kimberley region. As its name suggests, the original townsite was chosen as the best place to ford the mighty Fitzroy River. In the wet season, the river can rise over 20 metres and spread out up to 15 kilometres from its banks. Fitzroy Crossing’s main attraction is its proximity to the magnificent 30-metre-deep Geikie Gorge with its sheer yellow, orange and grey walls. Check road conditions before any excursions from December to March, as this area is prone to flooding.

Crossing Inn First established in the 1890s as a shanty inn and trade store for passing stockmen, prospectors and drovers, it has operated on the same site ever since, and is one of the very few hotels in the state to retain a true outback atmosphere. A stop-off and drink are a must for all travellers passing by. Skuthorp Rd; (08) 9191 5080.

Rodeo: July. Garnduwa Festival: sporting events; Oct.

Riverside Restaurant: traditional Australian fare; Fitzroy River Lodge, Great Northern Hwy; (08) 9191 5141.

Fitzroy River Lodge: 277 Great Northern Hwy; (08) 9191 5141. Tarunda Caravan Park: 272 Forrest Rd; (08) 9191 5330.

Geikie Gorge National Park Geikie Gorge has cliffs and sculptured rock formations carved by water through an ancient limestone reef. The Fitzroy River is home to sharks, sawfish and stingrays that have, over centuries, adapted to the fresh water. Freshwater crocodiles up to 3 m long and barramundi are plentiful, best seen on a guided boat tour. Aboriginal heritage and cultural tours are run by guides from the local Bunuba tribe; bookings essential. DEC rangers run tours on the geology, wildlife and history of the area. Entry to park is restricted during wet season (Dec–Mar). Contact visitor centre for details. 18 km NE.

Causeway Crossing: concrete crossing that was the only way across the river until the new bridge was built in the 1970s; Geikie Gorge Rd; 4 km NE. Tunnel Creek National Park: unique formation created by waters from the creek cutting a 750 m tunnel through the ancient reef; 4WD access only; 110 km NW. Windjana Gorge National Park: 350-million-year-old Devonian reef rising majestically above the surrounding plains. An easy walking trail takes you past primeval life forms fossilised within the gorge walls; 4WD access only; 145 km NW. 4WD tours: to Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge; bookings essential, contact visitor centre for details.

TOWNS NEARBY: Halls Creek 222 km, Derby 227 km

Gascoyne Junction

Pop. 46 Map ref. Central-western WA D7 | Central WA A8

Shire offices, 4 Scott St; (08) 9943 0988; www.uppergascoyne.wa.gov.au

Lying at the junction of the Lyons and Gascoyne rivers, Gascoyne Junction is a small administration centre for the pastoral industry. Sheep stations in the area, ranging in size from around 36 000 to 400 000 hectares, produce a wool clip exceeding 1.5 million kilograms annually. Devastating floods destroyed much of the town in December 2010, and the town still lacks many facilities as it slowly rebuilds.

Bush Races: Aug and Sept. Gascoyne Dash: cross-country endurance; Oct.

Kennedy Range National Park Along with spectacular scenery, the park is home to fossils of the earliest known species of banksia in Australia, and marine fossils that reflect the history of the region as an ocean bed. Ideal for sightseeing, hiking and bush camping, trails start from the camping area and pass through gorges where you can see honeycomb-like rock formations. 60 km N.

Mt Augustus National Park Mt Augustus is the world’s largest monolith, twice the size of Uluru. It is also known as Burringurrah, named after a boy who, in Aboriginal legend, broke tribal law by running away from his initiation. On capture, he was speared in the upper right leg. The spear broke as the boy fell to the ground, leaving a section protruding from his leg. It is said that, as you look at Mt Augustus, you can see the shape of the boy’s body with the stump of the spear being the small peak at the eastern end called Edney’s Lookout. There are several walking and driving trails; maps available from visitor centre. 294 km NE; see Carnarvon.

TOWNS NEARBY: Carnarvon 158 km, Denham 194 km

Geraldton

Pop. 37 000 Map ref. Central-western WA D12 | Southern WA A3

Bill Sewell Complex, cnr Chapman Rd and Bayley St; (08) 9921 3999 or 1800 818 881; www.geraldtontourist.com.au

94.9 ABC Classic FM, 96.5 WA FM

Situated on the spectacular Batavia Coast, Geraldton is the largest town in the mid-west region. As a port city, it is the major centre for the wheat belt and is renowned for its rock lobster industry. Geraldton is also regarded as one of the best windsurfing locations in the world, and has superb swimming and surfing beaches. The nearby Houtman Abrolhos Islands are the site of 16 known shipwrecks. The most infamous is that of the Dutch ship Batavia, which foundered on a reef in 1629.

HMAS Sydney II Memorial Built on Mt Scott overlooking the town to commemorate the loss of 645 men from HMAS Sydney II on 19 November 1941. The ship sank after an encounter with the German raider HSK Kormoran. The wrecks of both ships were found in March 2008. Seven pillars representing the 7 seas hold aloft a 9 m high domed roof formed of 645 interlocking figures of seagulls. At night an eternal flame lights the cupola. Near the memorial is the bronze sculpture of a woman looking out to sea, representing the women left behind waiting for those who would not return. The fifth and final element of the memorial, completed in 2011, is a remembrance pool, its black granite walls engraved with 644 seagulls and the remaining 2 m seagull sculpture in the centre of the pool indicating the coordinates of the sunken vessel. Tours conducted daily at 10.30am. Gummer Ave.

WA Museum Geraldton Exhibits focus on the cultural and natural heritage of the Geraldton region. Maritime displays include finds from Australia’s oldest shipwrecks, notably the original stone portico destined to adorn the castle gateway in the city of Batavia and lost to the sea when the Batavia sank in 1629. Museum Pl, Batavia Coast Marina; (08) 9921 5080; open 9.30am–4pm daily. Adjacent in the Geraldton Marina is a replica of the Batavia longboat; the public is invited on harbour sailings most Sundays; check with visitor centre for details.

Historic buildings: explore the town’s historic architecture dating back to the mid-1800s, with works by noted architect Monsignor John Cyril Hawes a highlight. Many of the buildings have been restored and are open to the public, including the Old Geraldton Gaol (1858), which is now a craft centre, and the Bill Sewell Complex (1884), which was built as a hospital and subsequently became a prison. In Cathedral Ave, St Francis Xavier Cathedral offers tours (10am Mon and Fri, 4pm Wed), and the Cathedral of the Holy Cross has one of the largest areas of stained glass in Australia. Brochures for Historic Walk Trails available from visitor centre. Geraldton Regional Art Gallery: the original Geraldton Town Hall (1907) converted to house art exhibitions and workshops; closed Mon; 24 Chapman Rd; (08) 9964 7170; 10am–4pm Tues–Sat, 1–4pm Sun. Leon Baker Jewellers: international jeweller works with Abrolhos pearls and Argyle diamonds. Workshop tours available; 133 Marine Tce; (08) 9921 5451. Rock Lobster Factory: take a tour with the Geraldton Fishermen’s Co-operative and follow the journey of the town’s most famous export, the western rock lobster, from processor to plate; covered shoes required; tours 9.30am Mon–Fri Nov–July; Connell Rd, Fisherman’s Wharf; (08) 9965 9000. Point Moore Lighthouse: assembled in 1878 from steel sections prefabricated in England, and standing 34 m tall, this is the only lighthouse of its kind in Australia; information on nearby pillar; Marine Tce.

Wind on Water Festival: Jan. Sunshine Festival: Oct. Markets: 8am–12pm every Sat at Maitland Park and Sun at old Railway Station.

Boatshed Restaurant: modern Australian and seafood; 359 Marine Tce; (08) 9921 5500. The Freemason’s Hotel: brasserie style; Cnr Durlacher St and Marine Terrace Mall; (08) 9964 3457. Tides of Geraldton: contemporary dining with harbour views; 103 Marine Tce; (08) 9965 4999. Chapman Valley Wines Restaurant: vineyard platters; Chapman Valley Wines, Lot 14 Howatharra Rd, Nanson; (08) 9920 5148.

Belair Gardens Caravan Park: 463 Marine Tce, West End; (08) 9921 1997. S unset Beach Holiday Park: 4 Bosley St, Sunset Beach; (08) 9938 1655.

Houtman Abrolhos Islands These 122 reef islands with a fascinating history span 100 km of ocean and are the main source of rock lobster for the local lobster fishing industry. There are 16 known shipwrecks in the Abrolhos Islands, the most infamous of which is that of the Dutch ship Batavia from 1629. Captain Pelsaert and 47 of the survivors sailed north to Batavia (modernday Jakarta) for help. When they returned 3 and a half months later, they discovered that a mutiny had taken place and 125 of the remaining survivors had been massacred. All of the mutineers were hanged, except for 2 who were marooned on the mainland, becoming Australia’s first white inhabitants. There is no record of their subsequent fate. The wreck was discovered in 1963 and some skeletons of victims of the mutiny have been found on Beacon Island. The islands now offer diving, snorkelling, surfing, windsurfing, fishing and birdwatching. Access is via boat or plane; tours and charters are available. Contact visitor centre for details and bookings. 65 km W.

Fishing: good fishing spots at Sunset Beach (6 km N) and Drummond Cove (10 km N). Mill’s Park Lookout: excellent views over Moresby Range and coastal plain; 10 km NE. Chapman Valley: picturesque farmlands and fields of springtime wildflowers on display July–Oct. Lavender Valley Farm offers natural body products; 1852 Chapman Valley Rd, Yetna; (08) 9920 5469; 20 km NE . Chapman Valley Wines is the northernmost winery in WA; 14 Howatharra Rd, Nanson; (08) 9920 5148; 30 km NE. Greenough: historic 1860s hamlet famous for its ‘leaning trees’, bent 90 degrees due to the coastal winds; 24 km S. Oakabella Homestead: one of the region’s oldest pioneering homesteads with a rare buttressed barn; tours available; North West Coastal Hwy; (08) 9925 1033; 30 km N. Scenic flights: tours over nearby Abrolhos Islands, Murchison Gorges or the coastal cliffs of Kalbarri; contact visitor centre. Scenic drive: Indian Ocean Drive, with its coastal views, is a beautiful alternate route for travelling between Geraldton and Perth via Dongarra, bypassing much of the Brand Highway.

TOWNS NEARBY: Greenough 22 km, Northampton 47 km, Dongara–Denison 61 km, Mullewa 92 km, Kalbarri 126 km

Gingin

Pop. 527 Map ref. Perth & Surrounds C1 | South-western WA B3 | Southern WA C7

Council offices, Brockman St; (08) 9575 2211; www.gingin.wa.gov.au

720 AM ABC Local Radio, 810 AM ABC Radio National

Gingin is one of the oldest towns in Western Australia, having been settled in 1832, only 2 years after the establishment of the Swan River Colony. For tourists, it has the charm of old original stone buildings within a picturesque natural setting. Situated 84 kilometres north of Perth, it is an ideal destination for a daytrip from the city.

Historic buildings Enjoy a pleasant self-guide stroll around the town on the Gingin Walkabout Trail, which features many fine examples of early architecture including Philbey’s Cottage and St Luke’s Anglican Church, both made from local stone. Contact visitor centre for map.

Granville Park: in the heart of the town with free barbecue facilities, playground and picnic area. Self-guide walks: stroll along the Gingin Brook on the Jim Gordon VC Trail or try the Three Bridges Recreation Trail, rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in Dec 2002; contact visitor centre for maps.

Horticultural Expo: Apr. British Car Club Day: May. Market Day Festival: Sept.

Amirage Restaurant: European fare; Cnr Gingin Brook and Military rds, Gingin West; (08) 9575 7646. Gingin Hotel: bistro fare; 5 Jones St; (08) 9575 2214. Kyotmunga Estate: platter lunches; 287 Chittering Valley Rd, Lower Chittering; (08) 9571 8001. S tringybark Winery, Restaurant & Function Centre: international cuisine; 2060 Chittering Rd, Chittering; (08) 9571 8069. Willowbrook Farm Tearooms & Caravan Park: country tearooms; 1679 Gingin Brook Rd, West Gingin.

Gravity Discovery Centre Opened in 2003, this $4 million centre offers hands-on and static scientific displays on gravity, magnetism and electricity. It includes the biggest public astronomy centre in the Southern Hemisphere and the largest telescope in WA. Visitors can take a high-tech look at heavenly bodies in an evening presentation (bookings essential) and see a number of WA inventions relating to physics. Military Rd; (08) 9575 7577; 15 km SW.

Cemetery: with a spectacular display of kangaroo paws in early spring; northern outskirts of town. Jylland Winery: open to public, wine-tastings and cellar-door sales; 2 km S. West Coast Honey: live bee display, honey extraction, tastings, sales of honey and bee products; open 9am–4pm Wed–Sun, or Mon and Tues by appt; Gingin Brook Rd; 3 km W. Moore River National Park: special area for conservation featuring banksia woodlands and wildflower displays in spring; 20 km NW.

TOWNS NEARBY: Yanchep 34 km, New Norcia 51 km, Toodyay 58 km, Mundaring 66 km, Moora 79 km

Greenough

Pop. 15 394 Map ref. Southern WA A3

Cnr Chapman Rd and Bayly St, Geraldton; (08) 9921 3999 or 1800 818 881; www.cgg.wa.gov.au

96.5 WA FM, 99.7 FM ABC Radio National

Lying 24 kilometres south of Geraldton, the Greenough Flats form a flood plain close to the mouth of the Greenough River. At its peak in the 1860s and ‘70s, Greenough (pronounced ‘Grennuff’) was a highly successful wheat-growing area. However, the combined effects of drought, crop disease and floods led to the area’s decline and from 1900 the population dropped dramatically. The historic hamlet that was once the centre of this farming community has been extensively restored and is classified by the National Trust.

Central Greenough Historic Settlement Precinct of 11 restored stone buildings dating from the 1860s including a school, police station, courthouse, gaol and churches. Fully re-created interior furnishings. Self-guide maps are available, or tours by appt. Cnr Brand Hwy and McCartney Rd; (08) 9926 1084.

Pioneer Museum: folk display located in an original limestone cottage; tours available; Brand Hwy. Leaning trees: these trees are a unique sight, having grown sideways in response to the harsh salt-laden winds that blow from the Indian Ocean; seen from Brand Hwy on the Greenough Flats. Hampton Arms Inn: fully restored historic inn (1863); Company Rd.

Rock of Ages Cottage B&B: 18 Phillips Rd; (08) 9926 1154.

Walkaway Railway Station: built in the style of a traditional British railway station, now housing a railway and heritage museum; closed Mon; Evans Rd; 10 km E. Greenough River mouth: ideal for swimming, canoeing, beach and rock fishing, birdwatching and photography; 14 km N. Flat Rocks: surfing, swimming and rock-fishing. A round of the State Surfing Championships is held here in June every year; 10 km S. Ellendale Pool: this deep, freshwater swimming hole beneath spectacular sandstone cliffs is an ideal picnic area; 23 km E. Greenough River Nature Trail: self-guide walk; contact visitor centre for brochure. The Greenough/Walkaway Heritage Trail: 57 km self-drive tour of the area; contact visitor centre for map.

TOWNS NEARBY: Geraldton 22 km, Dongara-Denison 39 km, Northampton 67 km, Mullewa 87 km, Morawa 127 km