CRISPY CORNMEAL CAKES

Makes 6 servings

Southerners have always eaten a lot of corn—fresh corn in season, dried corn in the winter, and cornmeal all year around in the form of grits. Grits benefit from cooking with milk or cream. But grits have traditionally been food for the poor, and of course the poor would use water instead of milk.

These corn cakes are essentially fried grits. Grits are a version of cornmeal much like the Italian polenta. Most Italian recipes for polenta can be easily adapted for grits.

5 cups water

2 plus 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for the pan and frying

1 cup coarse-ground yellow cornmeal

4 scallions, very finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, sage, and thyme

¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Brush a rimmed baking sheet with oil. Bring the water and 2 tablespoons olive oil to a boil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Slowly whisk in the cornmeal, stirring constantly to prevent lumping. Return to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring frequently, until the cornmeal is tender, about 30 minutes.

• While the cornmeal is cooking, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the scallions and cook until soft, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from the heat.

• Remove the cornmeal from the heat and add the scallions, herbs, cheese, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour into the prepared baking sheet and spread out to 1-inch thickness. Cover with plastic film pressed flush to the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.

• Cut the cornmeal into 2-inch squares.Heat oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add a single layer of the cornmeal cakes and cook until browned and crispy, about 5 minutes per side. Repeat with the remaining squares. Serve immediately.