Chapter Twenty

SNAKE RIVER

NINETEEN WAGONS TOOK THE CALIFORNIA Trail the next morning. A few more headed for Portland. The California group had elected a new wagon master and scout. Marshall and Obadiah would continue northwest.

They would be following Snake River for a big portion of the rest of their journey. This area lay in the northern part of the Great Basin, a high desert. Even with the river near, water would be scarce. Obadiah explained the Snake often lay at the bottom of deep gorges and canyons, too far down to collect any water.

To make matters worse, waterfalls on the Snake abounded. Therefore, they could be parched and the livestock dying of thirst, and they’d hear the water roaring in the distance, but there’d be no way to get to it. Those falls could be heard as far away as forty miles.

Now they faced an arid stretch, where there would be little but sand, desert scrub, jackrabbits, and rattlesnakes. Rotting bodies of dead cattle lay along the side of the trail as a stark reminder of hardships to come. Persistent buzzards circled overhead, as if forecasting imminent doom, and they blackened the decaying bodies of animals along the trail.

After the horrible sights, Faith became more determined than ever to get their animals through, especially the calf and its mother. Jacob prayed for them all.

In addition, dark gray lava and basaltic fields stretched out in murky beds to bring on feelings of doubt and fear. However, Obadiah said the wagon train would be skirting most of those.

The sun blazed above them with a vengeance. As they wound farther along, lips cracked open because of it, and hands and arms became raw. Even with hats or sunbonnets, their faces burned, and skin turned dark and rough, reminding Jacob of walnut hulls.

They rubbed grease on their lips, but then, the dust caked to them so thickly, that became uncomfortable, too. Even without wind, the wagons kicked up clouds of dust. Jacob and Faith had stopped talking as they walked along. Even without conversation, however, Faith’s very presence comforted Jacob. Her eyes smiled at him, even if her lips were too sore to move.

The mountains, which sometimes were barely visible in the distance, looked more like mirages. Their wavy outlines wiggled in the baking heat.

 

A family in the back of them lost an ox from the conditions. They butchered it and shared some of the meat.

Marshall announced everyone needed to lighten their loads or more animals would die. Jacob and Faith emptied their two trunks and tied the contents in sheets. They burned the wood from the trunks.

Jacob hoped he would be able to keep his plow. As the heaviest thing he hauled, he would need it when they got their land. No one hauled a cast-iron stove or heavy pieces of furniture anymore. They’d all been abandoned.

The high desert demanded suffering. It might not be a textbook desert, because much of what Jacob had read called it semi-arid, but it came as close to being one as he ever wanted to see. The water barrels were running low, and the livestock showed it. Almost all those with mules lost at least half of them. Jacob could have sold an ox for any amount of money people had, but out here money wasn’t needed, and his oxen were. Although he felt selfish, he knew he needed his extra team. He had Faith’s well-being to consider.

The hunting had also dried up. The animals seemed to know better than to come to such a place. They were lucky if they saw a few sage hens or rabbits. The coyotes they heard at night probably got most of them. Obadiah said they could eat the rattlesnakes, but most of the emigrants weren’t that desperate yet.

The cattle had become hard to control. They could often smell the water from the river, and they’d grown dehydrated and thirsty, but the river wasn’t accessible. The number of drovers had to be increased, and those driving the teams had to work harder to keep the oxen on the trail.

 

“You know why we decided to go west, woman?” Jacob heard Harlan answer a question Lena asked him. “We wanted some good, fertile land, and this is available.” He raised his voice in frustration.

“Yeah, well you know we’ll pay for it dearly in the long run,” she answered. “We might not have to give a lot of money, but mark my words. We’ll pay for every inch of that land in toil, sweat, and tears.”

“Well, quit your fussing. We’ve come too far now to turn back.”

“Harlan, I think you’ve got just enough Irish in you to make a mule look cooperative.”

Faith walked up beside Jacob. “She’s just venting some of her frustrations. Lena doesn’t really mean to be so negative. I’m sure she’ll snap out of it. She’s not usually so pessimistic.”

Jacob put his arm loosely around Faith. She had a rare ability to take things as they came and make the best of them. Nothing seemed to get her down.

“Sit down,” she told him, “supper’s almost ready.”

Faith sat quieter than usual during supper, but he guessed the day had been tiring on them all. He looked forward to getting in bed himself.

“I’m beginning to be a little nauseated in the mornings.” Faith looked at him carefully.

“Are you getting sick, honey? What do you think’s wrong?” She had been so strong on this trip. Was that about to change? Worry gripped him. What could he do to help her? Maybe he should go get Lena.

“This time I think the answer is ‘yes’ to your unspoken question.”

It took a moment before he could make sense out of what she was saying. “You’re expecting a child?”

“I think so,” she nodded. “I’ve missed my last monthly, and now I seem to have morning sickness. I threw up this morning after you went to collect the team.”

So she knew she couldn’t keep the fact from him much longer. He should have known. The desert hardships had caused him to be less observant. His heart fell into his stomach, but he took a deep breath and tried to collect himself.

Hadn’t he learned to trust in the Lord for all things? Just because Lucille died in childbirth, it didn’t mean Faith would. But, with the worst part of the trip coming up, it’ll be hard on any woman, much less one who’s expecting a child, a nagging little voice whispered inside him. He tried stuffing that insistent little voice into an inner crock and holding down the lid.

“This journey is rough, and you’ll need to take it easy,” he told her.

“No, I won’t. I’m strong, and, from what I understand, it will be better on me to continue walking and doing my regular chores. Lena says staying active is better than lying around like some women try to do.”

“You already told Lena about the baby?” He felt hurt she hadn’t told him first.

“No. I wanted you to be the first to know, but Lena and I have talked about birthing in general. No one had ever explained female things to me before. Aunt Mabel only told me about private things as they happened.”

Despite what Faith said, he hoped he’d be able to take some of her load and help her more. At least they should be in Portland before she started getting big.

“When do you think the baby will be born?”

“I’m guessing sometime in May or June. It’ll be a spring baby, and that should be a good time because the weather will be warming up.”

“I’m very happy,” he told her, because he knew she needed to hear him say it. “I’m looking forward to being a father.” That was true.

“Really? You feel good about this?”

“Yes. I want our baby very much, but I admit I’m still worried about you. Since both of us want children, however, I’m going to do my best to leave this in God’s hands and trust in Him. He’s kept you safe for me so far, and I believe He will now.”

The smile she gave him rivaled the noonday desert sun. When she rose, he did also and gathered her into his arms. The day might still be warm, but a man needed to kiss his wife at a time like this.

 

Morning sickness hit Faith hard. She couldn’t eat or drink anything when they first got up. Frying bacon also made her sick, so Jacob told her he would make himself some coffee, and it would be enough breakfast for him. She disagreed.

She fixed biscuits, pancakes, or corn fritters. She’d serve Jacob but saved hers to eat cold much later in the morning. Dry bread seemed to stay down better than anything else. By noon, she usually felt much better, and she stayed fine for the rest of the day.

Jacob always made sure she went to bed as soon as they finished supper. He knew the nausea left her weaker, the heat exhausted her, and the work of the day drained her strength. At times, he couldn’t understand how she managed to stay on her feet. He wanted her to ride more, but she knew the animals were struggling in the heat, and she rarely did.

He took care of the dishes. They no longer needed to milk. The milk cow had gone dry, and the other one barely gave enough for her calf. Jacob felt as if he moved on sheer determination, or maybe it was God’s strength. It couldn’t be his own.

 

American Falls announced its presence long before they came to it. The wide waterfalls foamed, sprayed, and slammed loudly down onto a rocky part of the Snake.

Several miles later the Twin Falls made a less noisy splash, but they were unique. Here the Snake River divided into two streams, which curved as it poured over huge rocks into a churning pool below. The twins were not as tall as the American Falls, but they were wider and Jacob thought prettier.

Twins? Could Faith be having twins? Two babies at one birthing might not be so bad, as long as two didn’t tax her more. On the second thought, maybe one at a time would be better.

The next falls were even closer, and at Salmon Falls, a small encampment of Indians had salmon to trade. Jacob traded Faith’s oldest rifle for enough fresh salmon for three meals and some smoked salmon for later. Some of the others complained about the taste of the salmon, but he and Faith liked it. He smiled to himself. Maybe they just needed Faith to give them some cooking lessons.

They were losing livestock. Some fell due to the heat, minimal grass, lack of water, and exhaustion. Others rushed to drink from a poisonous alkaline pool. One of Jacob’s oxen got into the bad water. Jacob and some of the men tried to save him. They forced charred remains from the campfires down his throat and gave him some fresh water, but he became bloated and had so much trouble breathing he finally drew his last breath.

Their milk cow died next from the harsh conditions. Grazing had become sketchy, and the cow had lost so much weight her ribs showed. She just wobbled, shuttered, and fell over one day. Jacob gave her to Obadiah to butcher, and the scout butchered it and gave them back a shoulder and a shank.

They still had Faith’s cow and calf. Jacob had babied the calf and taken it in the front of the wagon part of the trip. He thought it had a good chance of making it if its mother kept giving enough milk.

In a region this dry, the wood on the wagon wheels shrank, and the iron rims would roll off like children’s old-fashioned hoop toys. After Jacob saw this happen the first time, he tried to pour water over his every chance he got. Of course, he had to wait until they had easy access to water. It was too precious otherwise. He did use any dirty water from washing something, however.

They’d all get to soak their wooden wheels at Three Island Crossing. Others were saying it would be the most dangerous and difficult water crossing in the entire journey. They’d have to cross it, however, if they stopped at Fort Boise, and the northern side of the river would be much more favorable for travel than the dry, dusty, baking southern route. The river might be so deep they’d be forced to remain to the south, but they’d soon know.

Jacob slept little the night before the crossing. Try as he might to leave all his anxieties with God, he found it almost impossible to do. Now he not only had Faith to worry about, but also their baby, and he acutely felt the responsibility to keep his family safe.

He told himself he should be concerned, and it didn’t mean he wasn’t putting enough trust in God. As he lay beside Faith, who slept soundly, however, he wondered.

 

The rushing, green waters of Snake River were divided into four channels by three islands. The river spanned wider here, but, due to the islands, each single vein looked narrower than any other place in the river. Obadiah reported that it also ran shallower here. Three times the wagons could rest upon dry land before they continued the crossing.

Eight wagons crossed at a time. Jacob’s wagon waited in the second group, which suited him. He watched the first group carefully. A man rode on each side of the lead oxen with ropes to help guide and steady them if necessary. The loose livestock would be driven across last this time.

Jacob’s wagon made it across the first part with no difficulty, and his anxiety ebbed a bit. Faith looked over at him and smiled, as they pulled onto the first island. Had she been worried, too? He couldn’t tell. He was especially glad they just had the one wagon now.

When Jacob drove his wagon into the second stream of water, he could feel the stronger pull. The first channel bent more as it moved around the widest of the islands, and the bank curved also. This must have slowed the water to some degree. The second crossing appeared to be shorter than the first, however, so with a deep breath, a quick prayer, and intense focus, they made it to the middle island.

This island seemed much longer than the other two, but it wasn’t as wide as the first one. Obadiah said it was shaped like a crescent moon, but Jacob didn’t know how the scout knew this. Jacob sure couldn’t tell. Perhaps there were hills ahead, which would afford such a view.

They didn’t always take the most direct route across. Riders went into the river first to determine the best path, according to the depths and currents. The bottom had uneven places with deep holes. Sometimes the team would get off the path, and the riders would have to pull them back.

All the wagons made it to the islands, but the last crossing to the land looked the farthest. It also seemed to have the strongest current.

Jacob saw wagons in the first group wobble and tilt as they limped across the hazardous water. If something were going to happen at the crossing, this would be the time and place.

He felt cold inside as he urged his team forward. His concern grew as the water lapped his wagon ten inches above the bottom of the bed, as if the river wanted to swallow them up. He had to keep the oxen moving. If they tried to stop, they’d be more likely to be swept away.

At one point the wagon swayed so much, Faith had to clutch the seat to keep from falling out. Jacob braced with his feet and legs. He held his breath more than once, but with the help of the two riders, they finally made it. Thank Thee, Lord, for Thy constant presence. Thank Thee for seeing us safely across this raging river. Continue to protect us as we resume our journey. I pray, in Jesus’ name. Amen.

The first wagon in the last group got into the middle of the channel, tipped onto its side, and hurled down the river. Jacob didn’t know them, but he, along with everyone else, watched in stunned silence as the disaster unfolded before their eyes. The only sounds were from the river and those in the wagon, as the oxen bellowed and the people screamed. Rescuers, hoping someone might have been able to make it to shore, tried to find survivors. There were none to be found.

When the last emigrants attempted to cross, one of the wagons looked as if it would wash downriver too, but the driver yelled at his team, the riders pulled, and the wagon made it. All but one had made it across. That night they camped on the north side of the Snake.

 

Fort Boise lay ahead, and everyone needed some rest, including the animals. Jacob and Faith had only a rooster and three hens left from their chickens, and none of the hens were laying. He hoped the four would make it all the way with them, and they’d be able to rebuild a flock.

Lena said she’d be glad to see Fort Boise. “If we don’t soon stop long enough for me to wash and dry clothes, we’re going to drown from all the dirt we’re carrying on the next crossing.”

The clothes weren’t the only thing that seemed dirty and stiff. Jacob felt that way himself, and he knew Faith did, too. They weren’t as bad off as many of the travelers, however. At least they didn’t have oozing boils breaking out all over their skin.

They started traveling well into the night, both to find grazing and to make up some time. Marshall sent boys carrying lanterns out in front of the lead wagon to light the road.

Then, each wagon used a light, and the train could inch its way forward in the darkness. Sometimes a full moon would help light the way like a giant lantern.

According to Obadiah, the fort and Boise River were named from a French word meaning “trees.” He said the first trappers were overjoyed to finally see trees again. Jacob could understand that. The terrain looked dismal and bare without them.

The green valley welcomed them after the almost three hundred miles of black rocks and barren desert. And, as an added bonus, rabbits were plentiful and easy to hunt here.

Jacob was glad he and Faith had bought some flour at Fort Hall, because it cost much more at Fort Boise. The Indians around the fort were friendly, however, and had more salmon to trade.

Like Lena, Faith went to wash clothes. Maybe the dust wouldn’t be as bad for the rest of the trip, and they could actually feel clean again.

Faith still felt nauseous in the mornings, but it seemed to be wearing off earlier, so maybe her morning sickness would soon subside. Jacob tried to help her as much as possible without being too obvious. She didn’t like to be coddled.

Jacob threw caution to the wind, and they went to bathe in the river together. Since there were trees and bushes in spots along the river, he led Faith to a place out of sight from the fort and the wagons. They left on their under clothing, just in case, but it felt wonderful to get in the water, and it refreshed them.

At first, the cold water almost took their breath, but it gave Jacob a reason to hold Faith close. In the end, they laughed and played like children. He could tell Faith’s waist had thickened, but she still wasn’t showing otherwise.

When they got out and sat in the sun to dry before they put on clean clothes, Jacob felt the most relaxed he had in a good while. Laughter proved to be good medicine.

They only stayed at the fort for one full day. They were about a month from the Dalles, but Marshall felt pushed. He said if they were delayed any, and winter came early in the mountains, it could spell danger. Jacob would like to have remained longer, but he also wanted to get this trip over.

Not far out of Fort Boise, the road started climbing. Once the grade became so steep, one wagon went at a time to prevent skidding accidents affecting more wagons. One wagon lost a box from the cargo shifting, but nothing else happened.

The temperatures also dropped as they climbed. They’d definitely left the red, hot desert behind them, and, by the looks of the mountaintops, snow lay ahead. At least they now had plenty of trees and firewood.

 

Jacob looked at the mountainside before him. He stood waiting for the wagon in front of him to climb the steep grade. They were yoking up two teams to each wagon in order to be able to make it up.

Faith sat in their wagon watching. When it became their turn, he’d help her down and she would walk beside him. She knew never to be behind the wagon in case it got away. It hadn’t happened to anyone yet going up, but it could. Their progress had slowed, but they inched forward bit by bit. Going down would be almost worse.

It took time to double team the wagons. They had to keep hitching and unhitching the second team. Going down a steep grade, they removed all the oxen and put a pole through the spokes in the wheels to act as brakes and keep the wheels from turning. They tied ropes to the wagon and wrapped them around trees. Then the men would gradually let out the ropes to ease the wagon down the mountain. If they lost their grip or the ropes broke, the wagon would tumble down and crash into a thousand pieces. Jacob saw this happen more than once. In an instant, the family lost every possession they owned. They’d end up walking the rest of the way and eat and sleep at the mercy of their fellow travelers.

After the steep up and down, a band of Indians met them wanting to trade their smoked fish. The Indians they met were usually in small groups and seemed peaceful. Obadiah said they were Cayuse, but the Nez Perce might also be around.

Occasionally the Indians also had venison, pumpkin, corn, potatoes, and peas or beans. The vegetables were even more welcome than the fish, because most of the emigrants had run out of fruits and vegetables long ago. Most liked venison better than the smoked fish, too. The Indians would trade for any type of tool, fabric, or clothing.

Some of the Nez Perce had camas roots. Camas, a type of lily, resembled a small onion but tasted sweeter. The Indians ate theirs raw or ground and made into patties, but most of those in the wagon train just roasted them.

Faith had cooked all their carrots to keep them from becoming too rubbery through the desert, but they still had a few shriveling potatoes, some dried apples, and a little dried pumpkin. Like everyone else, however, dried beans bought by the pound had become their staple.

She made some fried pies from the dried apples that were delicious and Jacob’s favorite. He especially enjoyed them at breakfast with his morning coffee. His wagon had been stocked with some spices in Saint Louis, and Faith used them to add extra flavor.

Some of the emigrants were almost completely out of food of any kind. The Parkers had more because they had used the two wagons for half the trip, and they had provisions from both families.

“If I stay well-fed,” one man laughed, “I’m going to be naked by the time I get to Oregon City from so much trading with the Indians.”